^. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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z 


s 


1.0 


I.I 


Hi    12.5 


2.2 


9 


UN 

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1.8 


1-25  1  1.4   III  1.6 

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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


0 


t/j 


v'^o 


CIHM/ICMH 
Microfiche 


CIHIVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
orig'nal  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 


D 


D 


0 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul^e 


I      I    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


r~~|    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 


Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


Various  pagings. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


D 
D 
D 
Q 
D 
0 


D 
D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 


Qualitd  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppldmentaire 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film6es  d  nouveau  de  faqon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


The 
to  th 


The  i 
possi 
of  th< 
filmir 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film^  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous 

10X                             14X                              18X                             22X 

26X 

30X 

1 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

1 

1 

tiaire 
s  details 
ques  du 
It  modifier 
(iger  une 
le  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Archives  of  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

La  bibliothdque  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetd  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


i/ 
|u6es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimis  sont  filmAs  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED "),  or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  chaque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  —►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE ',  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


lire 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproJuit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  film6  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m6thode. 


ly  errata 
ed  to 

int 

me  pelure, 

ipon  d 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

V- 


r. 


1 


i 


M! 


1     '! 


4 
I     1. 1 


■J 


f-Uionwc,/  /'I'r'Jirb 


C<   ! 


i 


Ih^i'ker  Sculp  ' 


i 


F'l^ 


TOUR 


■n 


FROM  THE  CITY  OP  NEW-YORK,  TO  UETROIT, 


IN  THE  MICHIGAN  TERPJTORY, 


MADE  BETWEEN  THE  2d  OF  MAY  AND  THE  22d  OF  SEriEMBCr*,  181S. 

^> 

*  TThe  Tour  y  xtends  from  New- York,  by  Albany,  Schonectrtdy,  and  Utica,  to 

^  SacUet's  Harbor,  and  thence  througli  Lake  Ontario,  to  St.  Lawrence  river,  and 
,  down  that  stream  to  Hamilton  vilhge.  Thence  along  both  banks  of  the  St.  Law- 
fence,  from  Hamilton  to  the  Thousand  Islands  ;  thence  to  Sacket's  Harbor  by 

^  wafer  ;  from  that  place  by  the  route  of  great  Sodns,  Geiieva,  Cnnandaigtia,  and 
Batavi.'i,  to  BuiTalo  ;  and  from  thence  to  Black  Rock,  Fort  Erie,  the  Falls  of  JN'i- 
-if^ara,  Quceustown,  Lewistun,  and  the  memorable  fields  of  Brid<?ewater  and 

; ;"  Chippewa.  After  viewing  tlie  interesting  pass  of  Niagara,  the  autl.or  traversed 
the  sonth  shore  of  Lake  Erie  to  the  City  of  Dctr'^it,  and  visited  in  the  latter  range 
Dunkirk,  Erid,  Cleveland,  San^^'isky,  ruid  other  placcg  of  less  note. 

The  Tour  contains  notices  of  what  fell  under  the  author's  observation  coucern- 
%  \n%  the  natural  history  and  geography  of  the  region  over  which  his  travels  e.K 
tended,  with  brief  remarks  upon  such  remarkable  events  and  characters  as  haye 
contributed  to  give  interest  to  different  fitaces. 

THE  TOUR  IS  Accompanied  with  a  map  upon  which  the 

ROUTE  WILL  BE  DESIGNATED  \   A  PARTICULAft  MAP 
f  OF  THE  FALLS  AND  RIVER  OF  NIAGARA, 

AND  THE  ENVIRONS  OP  THE 
CITY  OP  DETROIT. 


BY  WILLIAM  DARBY, 

MF.MBGR  OF  THR  NF,W-VORK  HISTORICAL  SOCIETY. 

A-uthor  of  a  Map  and  Sttitistieftl  AccoMnit  of  Louisiana ;  and  Emigrant's  Gui4e. 


■^. 


PUBLISHED  FOR  THE  AUTHOR,  BY  KIRK  &  MitlCiEIN, 


And told  bv  Kirk  &.  Mercein,  A.  T.  Goodrich  5i  Co,  James  Eastburn  h  Co.  W.  B. 
GMley,  Charles  Wiley  &  Co.  R.  M'Dermut,  William  Hooker,  and  Collins  h  Co. 
NeW'York,  and  by  some  others  of  the  principal  Bookseller*  in  the  Uaittid 
atite#- 

1819. 

PRTNTrr»  BY  B.  WORTHTNfiTOJf,  HB.Of>KT,Yr^. 


-iTm* 


tiOUTHKRN  DISTRICT  OF  NKW-YOKK,  ss. 

Bi:  IT  UF.MEMBKRED,  Tliatonflie  sixlmith  dav  of  Jflnuarr, 
ill  Jlip  F'oilv-tlurd  venrof  the  Intlepnndc'iicc  of  the  t^nited  Stntes 
ot  Ameiicn',  A.  1).  JBIO,  WILLIAM  IJAKBV,  of  the  said  district, 
hnth  deposited  in  this  idfice  the  Title  of  a  Huok,  the  rij^ht  whereof 
he  claims  as  Proprietor,  in  the  words  following,  to  wit : 

''  A  Tour  from  the  City  of  New- York,  to  Detroit,  in  the  Michigan  Territory, 
mmle  between  the  2d  of  Mav,  and  the  T2il  of  September,  I«18,  The  Tour  ex- 
tends from  iNew-York,  by  Albany,  Schenectady,  and  Utica,  to  Sacket's  Harbor, 
jmkJ  thence  throii^^h  Lake  Ontario,  to  St.  Lawrence  river,  and  down  that  stream 
to  Hamilton  villasfc.  Thence  alongboth  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  Ha- 
milton to  the  'Ihpnsand  Islands  ;  thence  to  Sacket's  Harbor  by  water  ;  from  that 
!)lace  by  the  route  of  great  So*!iis, Geneva,  Canandaij^ua,  atid  Batavia,  to  Buifu- 
o  ;  and  from  thence  to  Black  Rock,  Fort  Krie,the  Falls  of  Niagara,  Qneenstown, 
X.ewiston,  and  tlie  memorable  fields  of  Bridgewatcr  and  Chippewa.  After  view- 
ing' the  interesting  pass  of  Niagara,  the  author  traversed  the  south  shore  of 
Lake  Erie  to  the  Cily  of  Detroit,  and  visited  in  the  latter  range  Dunkirk,  Frie, 
Cleveland,  Sandusky,  and  otlier  places  of  less  note.  The  Tour  contains  noticeii 
of  what  fell  under  the  author's  observation  concerning  the  natural  liistory  and 
geography  of  the  region  over  which  his  travels  extended,  with  brief  remarks 
upon  such  remarkable  events  and  ch  aracters  as  have  contributed  to  give  interest 
to  different  places.  The  Tour  is  accompanied  with  a  Map  u|)on  which  the  route 
will  be  designated  ;  a  particular  Map  ol  the  Falls  and  River  of  Niagara,  and  the 
environs  oi  the  City  of  Detroit.  By  William  Dahbv,  Member  of  the  New- 
York  Historical  Society.  Author  of  a  Map  and  Statistical  Account  oi  Louisia- 
na ;  and  Emigrant's  Guklc." 

Li  conformity  to  the  Act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States,  entitled,  "  An 
Act  for  the  encourageiwent  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps,  Charts, 
and  Books,  to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  time  there- 
in mentioned." — And  also  to  the  Act,  enti'led,  "  An  Act  suppleincutary  to  an 
Act,  entitled  an  Act  for  the  encouragement  of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies 
of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  Authors  and  Proprietors  of  such  copies,  du- 
ring the  times  therein  mentioned,  and  extending  the  benefits  thereof  to  th6  arts 
of  uusignitig,  engraving,  and  etching  historical  and  other  prints." 

JAMES  DILL,  Clerk  of  the  Southern  District  of  New- York. 


84' 


*  » 


ti 


I  xerajrijed  myself  in  mtj  cloak,  and  lay  dorvn  under  a 
laurel,  on  the  bank  of  the  Eurolas.     The  night  teas  so  pure 
and  so  serene,  and  the  milky  way  shed  such  a  light,  reflected 
by  the  current  of  the  river,  that  you  might  see  to  read  by  it. 
J  fell  asleep  with  my  eyes  fared  upon  the  heavens,  having  the 
leant  ful  constellalion  of  Leda*s  swan  exactly  over  my  head. 
1  still  recollect  the  pleasure  which  I  formerly  received  from 
llms  reposing  in  the  woods  of  America,  and  especially  from 
awaking  in  the  middle  of  the  night.     I  listened  to  the  whist- 
ling of  the  wind  through  the  rvilderness  ^  the  braying  of  the 
does  and  stags ;  the  roar  of  a  distant  cataract;  while  the 
embers  qf  my  half  extinguished  f  re,  glowed  between  the  foli- 
age of  the  trtes.    J  loved  even  to  hear  the  voice  of  the  Iro- 
quois, lohen  he  shouted  in  the  recesses  of  his  forests,  and  when, 
in  the  brilliant  star-light,  amid  the  silence  of  nature,  he  seem- 
ed to  be  proclaiming  his  unbounded  liberty.    Ml  this  may  af- 
ford delight  at  twenty ;  because,  then  life  suffices,  in  a  man- 
ner, for  itself,  and  there  is  in  early  youth,  a  certain  restless- 
iiess  aiid  inquietude,  which  incessantly  encourage  the  creation 
of  chimeras,  ipsi  sibi  soniuiaiingunt:  but  in  maturerage,  the 
mind  contracts  a  relish  for  more  solid  pursuits,  and  lores,  in 
particular,  to  dwell  on  the  illustrious  examjtles  recorded  in 
history.     Gladly  would  1  again  make  my  couch  on  the  banks 
of  the  Eurotas,  or  the  Jordan,  if  the  heroic  shades  of  the 
three  hundred  Spartans,  or  the  txcelve  sons  of  Jacob,  were  to 
visit  my  slmubers ;  but  I  would  not  go  again  (o  explore  a  vir- 
^in  soil,  which  the  ploughshare  has  never  lacerated.     Give 
n^e  now  ancient  deserts,  where  I  can  conjure  up  at  pleasure. 


Ihc  wulb  nf  lidbiiloiif  ov  Ihc  kgions  of-  VUarmlia — j^iaiMlhi 
u%\\ ;  lilaiuH  ulwae  J'uvvotvs  conrnj  iualrudion,  umi  u-hnrt 
mortal  us  J  ««/,  i  Irnvc  the  bii.'jil,  tlulmrb,  and  (he  aueutf  oj' 
Iniman  kind.*'* 

I  caniiut  cuncrivi*  iIm;  HaliHfaction  it  <".m  give,  (o  u  f^cnermiB 
and  It-C'ling  heart  to  (race  (lie  lusl  IVa^iiioiiis  of  a  ruined  ci- 
1^',  01'  bchoM  ivdiicfd  !o  desolation,  fields  that  unec  >vaved  in 
golden  Ijarvesl.  To  the  eve  oi*  reason  and  philosopliv,  n  re- 
^iew  hmy  be  de&irulile  of  the  levoiutionti  ol'  litinian  society" 
in  all  the  various  staf^es  iVnni  the  sava};e  liurde  to  the  most 
refined  eivilizulion  ;  Ixit  tome,  it  would ^ieltl  more  pain  than 
)>,ratilication,  to  behold  Home,  Athens,  or  Jt  ruMitlem,  in  dust 
und  usiies.  The  reminiseence  (hat  should  reuul  ibi  iisei*  great- 
ness, that  would  laiwe  in  iina;;inalion  li'om  the  tomb  the  Peri- 
eles,  Euripides.  ^Jaeeabeea,  the  Seipios  or  the  Ciesars, 
would  exeile,  lather  a  tear  ol*  bittce  regret,  than  a  ph'asing 
sentiment  of  poetic  enthusiasm,  on  gluneing  over  tlie  ocean 
of  past  time.  1  would  rather  indulge  m^'  faixj  in  folhiwing 
tiie  future  progress,  than  in  surveying  the. wreck  of  human 
happiness;  1  would  rather  see  one  ilourishing  village  rising 
iVoui  the  American  wilderness,  than  behold  the  ruins  of  Bal- 
bee.  Palmyra,  and  Perse|M»lis. 

Like  Chateaubriand,  I  have  often  reposed  hi  the  woods  and 
jdains  of  JS'*orlh  Jimerica,  in  the  silence  of  night,  under  the 
glances  of  the  swan  of  lA'da,  the  gleasus  of  Sirius,  or  the 
beams  of  the  pale  moon  plaving  amid  the  leaves  of  the  fo- 
rest, or  exhibiting  the  fail'}' picture  of  the  distant  prairie. 
1  have  thus  often  in  the  awful  solitude  of  the  cane  brake, 
or  the  cedar  groves,  contemplated  the  rapid  march  of  active 
industry;  I  have  fancied  the  rise  of  towns  and  villages,  the 
clearing  of  fields,  the  creation  of  rich  harvests,  of  orchards, 
meadows,  and  pastures.  I  have  beheld  the  dee  »  gloom  around 
l)ic  dispelled,  the  majestic  but  dreary  forest  disappeared,  th«) 
savage  MBb  turned  into  civilized  miin;    schools,  colIegei»« 

*  Travels  in  (Jrcere,  Palesline,  Egypt,  and  Barbary,  by  F.  A. 

de  Chateaubriaiid;  Sr.or).<  !!'>;  tianslatioiij  .N.  Y.  p.  loy.  '■' 


# 


>'^ 


PnKl'ACE. 


ciiui'choSt  ami  Icj^iilutivo  IihIIh  arose.  The  river,  upon  whoso 
ImiilvH  now  i^H'W  the  (an;.;;h'<l  vino,  and  in  whoisQ  wulorti  the 
h)a(hsoniu  alil,(;ii(or  lluatcd,  ht'cunic  covered  >\i(li  barkii  load- 
ed with  (he  produoc  ui'  ils  chores;  I  heard  the  Mon^$i  of  joy 
and  i^luihirss  ;  I  helii'hl  i',uv  neienee  shed  Jier  sinih'H  upon  a 
Itappy  and  enlt,:;hlened  people;  1  beheld  the  heavenly  I'ornt 
ol'  relip;ion,  elothed  in  the  !iini|)le  f^arh  ol*  luve  and  truth, 
teachin.';  lliu  preecpts  of  present  and  everlasJin^  peaee ;  I 
»a\v  lili<-r(y  and  law  inlerposin;^  between  (he  shai'ts  ui*  o]i> 
pression  and  liiehusoni  of  innoeene<> ; — an<l  I  saw  th«  stern 
l)i-o\v  ol*  justice  bcdviwcd  with  a  tear  over  the  chastised  vie- 
lini. 

Many  were,  the  lon;^  and  (edi<»u»  liours  I  have  thushegijil- 
ed,  when  no  sound  inirrrupli'd  my  chain  of  relleition, 
exex*pt  the  si^hin;;-  of  the  ni^lnly  breeze,  and  I  have  enjoyed 
a  pU'asure  ;^rea(er  (iian  man  ever  i''>lt  amongst  »•  bi'vUcn  co- 
Inmns  and  lUs^joiucd  arcniUs."  1  have  seen  on  an  ininitnso 
surface,  these  warm  anticipations  realized.  In  west  >'irj:;i- 
i)ia,  in  west  Pennsylvania,  in  Kentucky,  Ohio,  Indiana,  Illi- 
nois, Tennessee,  Missouri,  ]Mississ;p{)i,  Louisiana,-,  and  Ala- 
hania  ;  in  west  New-York,  Michigan,  and  in  Canada,  1  have 
for  thirty-iive  years,  been  a  witness  to  the  change  of  a  wil- 
<!erness  to  a  cultivated  garden.  I  have  roamed  in  forests,  and 
u;mn  the  same  ground  now  stand  legislative  halls,  and  tcm- 
j|)les  of  religion.  New  states  have  risen,  and  ai'e  daily  rising 
upon  (his  (Mice  dreary  waste.  1  am  willing  to  leave  (he  man 
unenvied  to  his  enjoyments,  who  would  prefer  the  barbarie 
picture  uow  jiresente*!  by  Greece,  Asia  Minor,  S,U'ia,  and 
Palestine,  ii  the  glowing  canvass  whose  lints  are  daily  Ix'- 
coniing  richer  and  stronger,  upon  the  rivers  and  hills  of 
IV<irth  America,  I  would  rather  read  the  Immortal  works 
of  Homer,  Thucidydes,  or  Demosthenes,  upon  the  banks  of 
the  Ohio  or  St.  Lawrence,  than  search  the  deserted  tombs  of 
those  mighty  geniuses,  in  their  now  desolate  native  land. 
These  men  have  left  their  hones  to  oblivion,  their  works 
<l»v  liuve  brcjuealLed  to  the  huiisan  race,     Au:id  the  thou- 


■J£ 


vi 


?UE]t'ACE. 


sa^  o1>jec^s  tliut  are  constantly  bcfot«e  the  mental  eye,  in 
<lilft  new  moral  creation,  none  is  more  wonderful  or  more  al- 
luring  than  (he  existence  of  more  fhan  a  thousand  semina- 
I'ies  of  education,  where  less  than  thirty  years  past,  stood  no 
jiiansion  of  civiliz^  man. 

In  this  as  in  every  other  of  my  works,  I  have  given  my 
naked  reflections  to  the  reader.  Too  much  of  my  life  has 
licen  spent  in  actual  travelling*  to  admit  the  order  and  polish 
of  a  writer  who  enjoyed  £.;ope  closet  leisure  5  but  to  relate 
what  I  «aW)  needed  not  a  lini><hed  erudition^it  demanded  a 
respect  for  tru  h  and  human  esteem  ;  a  respect,  the  sense  ojT 
which  I  trust  never  to  lose^  until  1  eease  to  exist  amongst 
mankind. 

WILLIAM  DARBY. 

X^^'Vork,  Jan^iavy  if  i^W. 


*i 


i 


TO  THE  READElli^ 


•*;  • 


Before  perusinjj  this  treatise,  the  reader  is  respectfully  requested  to  observe 
and  note  the  followin^omissions  and  corrections. 

I  find  on  reviewing^  the  sheets,  that  I  have  not  been  sufficiently  explicit  in  my 
notices  of  the  following  places,  upon  the  St.  Lawrence  river  :  Hamilton,  Ojj- 
deriiiburgh,  Prescott,  Brockville,  and  Morristown.  I  have  subjoined  tlie  follow- 
}ng  brief  description  of  these  towns  ; 

Hamiltortfia  a  village  in  St.  Lawrence  county,  in  the  state  of  New-York,  stand- 
ing upon  the  bank  of  St.  Lawrence  river,  opposite  Ogden's  island.  This  village 
has  been  recently  established  ;  it  is  thriving,  and  like  all  towns  upon  the  St, 
Lawrence,  has  a  fine  offi-ct,  iiom  the  gentle  acclivity  of  the  {(round  upon  which 
it  stands.  The  soil  in  this  neighborhood  is  excellent ;  timber,  composed  of  hem- 
lock, pine,  and  sugar  maple. 

Ogdensbiti-git  stands  upon  the  lower  point  of  land,  formed  by  the  junction  of  the 
Oswegatchie  with  the  St.  Lawrence  river;  the  site  is  high,  and  like  all  other 
parts  of  the  St.  Lawreiice  banks,  rises  by  gradual  acclivity  from  the  water.  Og- 
densburg  is  the  seat  of  justice  in  and  for  St.  Lawrence  county,  and  has  a  pros- 
perous appearance,  with  a  post-oflice,  three  or  four  taverns,  eight  or  ten  stores, 
several  mechanics'  shops,  such  as  carpenters,  hatters,  shoemakers,  and  tay- 
lors.  The  town  contains  about  liO  dwelling-houses,  and  about  400  inhabitants. 
The  mouth  of  the  Oswegatchie  river  forms  a  good  harbor  for  small  vessels. 

Prescott,  in  the  township  of  Augusta,  county  of  Grcnville,  stands  upon  the  Can- 
ada shore  of  St.  Lawrence  river,  opposite  Ogdensburg.  The  two  towt.s  do  not 
differ  much  in  extent  or  number  of  inhabitants.  Prescott  is  the  seat  of  justice 
for  the  county  in  which  it  is  situated,  and  is  a  flourishing,  commercial  village. 

Prescott  and  Ogdensburg,  occupy  the  lowest  points  of  ship  navigation  from 
lake  Ontario;  two  steam-boats  are  in. operation  between  dicse  towns,  and 
Kingston,  Sacket's  Harbor,  and  other  places  in  lake  Ontario. 

Brockville,  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Leeds,  Upper  Canada,  star.:  ; 
upon  the  bank  of  St.  Lawrence,  in  Elizabeth  township,  16  miles  above  Prcscoi  i . 
The  situation  of  Brockville  is  pleasing  and  romantic.  The  banks  on  the  Cana- 
da side,  above  and  below  the  town,  are  high,  rocky,  and  precipitous,  and  the 
river  chequered  with  islands.  The  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  in  the  state  of 
New-York,  is  yet  a  forest.  The  neighborhood  around  Brockville  is  well  culti- 
vated and  populous;  the  town  is  flourishing  and  commercial.  v 

Morridown  is  a  small  village  upon  the  St.  Lawcence,  in  the  county  of  St,  Liiv- 
rence,  about  two  miles  below  Brockville.  This  village  has  but  little  to  render  it 
remarkable,  consisting  only  of  about  a  dozen  houses,  with  a  post-oflice. 

Describing  Utica,  (see  page  5y)  I  omittiMl  to  mexitiiou  its  fine  bridge  over  the 
Mohawk  river. 


viu 


to   THE    HEADER. 


Pagfi  27>  tfeird  linn  of  the  note,  for  "  this  latter  ciratrnsiuneef  was,  Jiowiter,  no 
^/oh/<<,"  read,  .this  latter  circumstance  \yas  no  doubt. 

Page  37,  9th  line  fro«n  the  top,  for  "//wn  the  margin  dell,"  rend  from  (he  mar-' 
gin. 

Pnje  55,  fo'.irth  line  from  the  top,  for  f*  city  ofUtka"  read,  towri  of  Li'tica. 

Page  59,  line  12th  from  the  top,  for  *^  colonial,"  rn«d,  colloquial. 

Page  61,  third  line  frorfittlie  top,  for  "  producing  effects,"  read,  which  produced 
effects.  '  .      '   '       ' 

Page  72,  line  Uth  from  the  bottom,  for  "  sj'tfe  iiwrf,"  read,  land  side.      *" 

Page  7.3,  lines  four  and  five  from  the  bottom,  for  "  te«  or  h(;e/vemi/(y,"  read, 
two  or  throe  miles. 

Page  91,  line  15th  frorti  the  fop,  for  "  tatiddings,"  read  muddincns. 

Page  118;  I  tliere  mention  an  intention  to  note  the  comparative  quantity  of 
wate.-  in  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Mississippi  rivers,  but  have  omitted  that  of 
the  latter  ;  the  reader  will  please  substitute  for  ("  seb  appendix,  No. 2,") 'the 
following  words,  applied  to  the  Mi&9i|ssippi  : 

"  We  may  imagine  a  scmi-eHipsis,  whose  longitudinal  diameter  ve  presents  the 
river's  breadth,  and  whose  lon^st  ordinate,  its  depth  ;  allow  1,50  feet  as  the 
length  of  the  ordinate  line,  or  depth  of  water  at  the  greatest  elevation,  and  2,400 
feet  as  the  extent  of  the  elliptical  diameter  or  riverV  breadth,  we  are  confident, 
that  those  constituent  principles  will  give  a  very  correct  result.  From  the  ap- 
plication of  the  above  elements,  141,372  cubic  feet  would  be  contained  within 
one  foot  longitudinal  section  nf  the  river.  At  the  rate  of  one  mile  an  iiuur, 
5,2C0  feet  in  lengtb  would  be  discharged  every  hour,  or  746,444,160  cubic  feet, 
of  the  entire  mass." 

[Darby's  Lofiiniana,  JS".  Y.Ed. p.  56. 

P^161,  line  19th  from  the  top,  for  «,  G.  D.  C. ;  W.  P."  read,  G.  D.  G*  j  A.  T.G.; 
audW.P.&ic. 

Page  169,!line 7th  from  the  bottom,  for  October '-8tt,l8I4,"  read,  October  12th, 
1812 ';  atid  bottom  line,  for  "  Real"  read,  Rial. 

Page  212,  line  4th  from  top,  for  "  Mr.  Isaac  Kibbe,"  read,  Mr.  V'.toe.  Mr.  Isaac 
Kibbe  is  the  brother  of  the  gentleman  of  that  name,  who  keeps  a  public  ino,  in 
the  town  of  Buffalo. 


1 


from  llie  mar-* 
irii  ot  litica. 
irhich  prbiliiced 
side. 

'»• 

ive  quantity  of 
omitted  that  of 
:,  No. 2,") 'the 

•  re  presents  the 
l/)0  feet  as  the 
Rtion,  and  2,400 
i  are  confiden  t 

From  the  ap- 
mtained  within 

mile  an  i^our, 
',160  cubic  feet, 

r  F.  m.  p.  56. 
D.O.jA.T.G.; 

,  October  12th, 

'oe.    Mr.  Isaac 
public  iivD,  in 


i;tf 


>'-M'HK 


A  TOUR 

FROM  ^E^V-YORK  TO  DETROIT. 


i  : 


LETTER  1. 

Mhany,  May  3(f,  18 IS.         I 
Deak  Sir, 

Amid  the  violence  of  wind  and  rain,  I  arrived  in  thii^ 
city  at  5  o'clock  this  afternoon.  Though  spring  has  made 
some  advances  near  New-York,  here  llie  face  of  nature  is 
marked  with  all  the  bleakness  of  winter,  except  snow.  At 
this  season,  no  scenery  can  exhibit  a  more  dreary  aspect  than 
that  of  the  Hudson  ;  naked  roeks  or  precipices,  witli  a  few 
leafless  forest  trees,  are  the  only  objec<s  tliat  in  many  places 
meet  the  eye  of  the  voyager  in  passing  many  miles  upon 
this  truly  singular  river.  While  the  cold  damp  wind 
sweeps  along  the  current,  the  view  of  the  distant  farm  houses 
have  a  solitary  and  even  gloomy  appearance. 

Perhaps  in  no  equal  distance  on  earth,  is  the  contrast  be- 
tween the  smiles  of  summer  and  the  frowns  of  winter,  so 
strong  as  upon  the  Hudson  banks  between  New-York  and 
Albany.  I  travelled  upon  both  sliores  of  the  Hudson  river 
in  the  summer  of  1816,  and  visited  most  places  of  note  on 
or  near  its  margin. 

I  had  then  occasion  to  make  a  remark  I  have  since  found 
Just ;  that  the  arrangements  of  the  Stcaui-Boats,  deprive 
passengers  of  the  view  of  mucli  of  the  richest  scenery  of 
this  interesting  region.  The  passage  of  (he  river,  througit 
<hc  Fishkill  mountains,  is  indeed  one  of  t^ic  fiMosl  land«!cap!S 

m 


10 


SEWUrRG. 


[let.  I. 


in  Xorlli  America,  and  j  et  is  seen  but  by  vciy  Tew  of  Ihoso 
Nvho  traverse  lliroiigli  ils  sublime  portals,  and  who  travel 
expressly  for  the  purpose  of  beholding  nature  in  her  most 
attraelive  garb.  In  the  first  instance,  travelling  by  a  land 
eonveyancc  and  by  slow  stages,  I  had  the  advantage  of  be- 
holding tlie  various  parts  rather  more  in  detail,  than  I  could 
have,  had  I  passed  by  Ihe  ordinaiy  means  of  the  Steam-Boat. 
As  yon  have  imposed  upon  me  the  task  of  relating  what  I 
have  seen  or  thought,  and  as  you  have  had  the  kindness  to 
express  more  es(imaiion  for  the  matter  than  the  manner,  I 
will  give  a  detail  of  my  noles,  during  L»y  first  voyage  up  the 
irudson. 

I  left  the  city  of  New-York,  on  the  afternoon  of  August 
20tli,  J8J6;  the  weather  was  extremely  boisterous  for  the 
season  ;  a  strong  north  wind  impeded  the  pi'ogress  of  the 
Steam-lioat,  and  as  usual,  1  passed  the  Highlands  in  the 
night,  and  landed  about  ntidnight  at  Newburg. 

I'hc  morning  of  the  i21sl,  repaid  amply  the  fatigue  of  the 
evening  befoie,  the  violence  of  the  wind  had  subsided,  the 
air  was  serene  and  cool ;  and  aiforded  an  excellent  opportu- 
nity to  review  widi  advantnge  the  line  landscapes  la  this 
neighborhood. 

The  scite  of  JVewburg  is  admirably  adapted  to  produce, 
from  a  variety  of  points,  the  most  striking  effect  that  water, 
hill,  dale,  and  mountain  can  give.  Rising  by  rather  abrupt 
acclivity  from  the  water,  the  houses  in  the  town  appear  like 
the  steps  of  a  pair  of  stairs.  From  a  bill  to  the  westward 
of,  and  which  rises  above  the  village,  the  entire  adjacent 
country  is  spread  before  the  eye.  The  prospect  is  on  all 
sides  extremely  picturesque,  the  fields  and  farm  houses  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Hudson,  ase  seen  lessening  into  the  hor- 
i/<»n  far  into  Dutchess  county,  towards  the  borders  of  Con- 
necticut. 'J'he  t  ishkill  mountains  rising  into  bold,  though 
not  rugged  promini  nces,  and  covered  with  trees  to  their 
9nmn:its.  But  tls.'  passage  of  the  Hudson  river,  through 
tlie  rii;;hlands,  is  far  tlio  most  plc;»sing  part  of  this  beauti- 


'# 


.% 


ii' 


lET.  I.] 


NEWBUllfi — FISHKIJtL. 


fti 


ful  picture.  TJie  smooth  siiiTuec  of  the  ilvcp  sllentlv  ap» 
proacliing  this  confined  openin;;.  the  projecting  luuks  appu-^ 
rently  menacinj;  the  llitling  vessels  heneath..  fhe  diversiiUcl 
groups »of  trees,  the  distant  view  of  Hie  hills  of  Pnduim 
county,  and  the  soft  white  clouds  exhibitini;  Iheirairy  I'oims 
along  the  clear  blue  heaven,  forms  a  landscape  that  is  equal- 
led by  few  on  earlli. 

It  is  obvious  that  the  Hudson  did  not  alwnys  find  i(s  course, 
to  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  through  tljo  Fislikill  mounhi'ms.  Tlio  ^ 
whole  face  of  the  cotintry,  north  of  that  pass,  evinces  an  ex- 
posure to  submersion    by  water.     By  either  ahrasiiyi  of  a  ^ 
cataract,  or  disruption  by  some   convulsirin  of  nature,   fmt  I 
much  more  probably   the  former*,  the  mountain  chain  has*' 
been  broken,  and  the  rushing  waters  found  their  way  to  the 
now  New- York  Bay.* 

During  the  afternoon  of  Aug.  21st,  I  crossed  the  river  from 
jVewburg  to  Fishkill  landing,  enjoyed  in  the  traverse,  tho 
changing  view  of  the  narrows,  and  after  landing,  turned  and 


*  In  Dr.  S.  L.  Milchers  excellent  observations  upon  tlie  Grologv 
of  North  America,  which  aie  attached  to  Kirk  and  JMerceins 
edition  of  Cuvier's  Theory  of  tiie  Eartli,  occur  the  following 
observations  upon  the  Fishkill  njountains. 

"  They  are  composed  chiefly  of  granite  and  kneiss,  abounding 
in  loose  nodules  and  solid  veins  of"  niagnetical  iron  ore.  The 
width  of  the  chain  may  he  rated  at  about  sixteen  miles.  Tlu; 
height  of  the  most  elevated  peaks,  have  been  asceitained  baro- 
metrically by  Capt.  Alden  Partridge,  of  the  corps  of  Artilleiisls 
and  Ewineers.  According  to  his  observations,  Butterhill  on  tin* 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  1529  feet  above  tide-water,  and  the  new 
Beacon  1565  feet. 

"  This  thick  and  solid  barrier  seems  in  ancient  days,  to  hnvo 
impeded  the  course  of  the  water,  and  to  have  raised  a  lake  hiidi 
enougli  to  cover  all  the  country  to  Quaker  hill  and  the  Tacoiiick 
mou):tains  on  the  east,  and  to  the  Shav^angunk  and  the  Catskill 
mountains  on  the  west.  This  lake  may  be  calculated  to  have  ox- 
tended  to  the  Little  Falls  of  the  Mohawk,  and  to  Hadley's  Falls 
on  the  Hudson." — Kirk  ^'  Mercein's  Cnvier,  jwga  3S7. 

A  careful  review  of  the  structure  of  the  adjoining  country, 
leaves  no  reasonable  doubt  of  the  correctness  of  the  ibregoing 
conclusions  drawn  bv  (his  able  5:eo!{)<'ist. 


IS 


UUDSOX   BIVEB* 


(  LETi  V 


bclicld  the  two  villagoa  of  Xewburg  anil  New-AViudsoi*  hftng- 
ing  upon  the  western  slope  ol*  the  opposite  shore.  1  had 
JuM'O  again  another  oppoi'tiiiilty  of  admiring  the  ever  varying 
scenery  of  fhis  riily  delighful  neigliborhood.  Often  as  I 
have  bfht'hl  with  a  sensation  of  real  pleasure,  the  setting  of 
an  unclouded  sun,  never  before  (or  since)  did  I  see  that  lu- 
minary take  his  ni|:;!illy  leave  of  man.  with  more  serene  ma- 
jesty, or  amid  so  many  olyects  to  lieighten  the  beauty  of  the 
scene.  Seated  upon  an  ehivated  bank,  in  u  grove  composed 
of  spruce  and  cedar,  1  watched  the  departure  of  the  king  of 
day ;  the  slow  and  silent  advance  of  darkness,  at  length 
siiroudcd  in  gloom  u  picture,  >v"iose  teints  can  only  be  for- 
gotten when  my  bosom  ceases  to  beat. 

Environed  by  tlie  massy  and  sublime  monuments  reared 
by  the  hand  of  nature,  and  enjoying  tho  softened  beauty  of 
such  an  evening,  I  could  not  repress  a  retrospection  upon  the 
march  of  time  ;  I  could  not  avoid  reilecling  that  an  epoch 
did  exist,  when  ihe  delightful  vaiiey  in  which  I  then  sat  was 
an  expanse  of  waier  ;  that  the  winding  and  contracting 
gorge,  through  which  the  Hudson  now  iluws,  did  not  exist, 
or  was  (lie  scene  of  another  Niagara  ;  I  belield  the  lake 
disappear,  t!»c  roar  of  the  cataract  had  ceased,  the  enor- 
mous rocky  barriers  had  yielded  to  the  impetuous  flood. 
The  river  now  glides  smooth  and  tranquil,  in  its  passage 
through  this  glen,  dark  and  deep.  The  Mar  of  elements 
have  subsided.  The  ntountains  have  apparently  separated; 
and  given  the  waters  free  egress  to  the  ocean. 

In  order  to  have  ample  means  of  reviewing  this  region,  to 
as  much  advantage  as  possible,  I  hired  a  man  to  convey  me 
in  a  sail  boat,  from  Fishkill  landing  to  West-Point ;  and  on 
the  morning  of  the  22d,  passed  the  Narrows  with  a  light 
Avind.  A  slight  mist  floated  over  the  highest  peaks  of  the 
mountains,  but  below  the  air  was  clear  and  pleasant.  Ap- 
j)roa»;hi!ig  the  most  confined  part  of  the  passage,  the  vast 
granitic  ledges  seemed  to  raise  their  frowning  projections  to 
the  clouds,  the  trees  upon  thdr  summits  appear  like  shrubs. 


■  'i,.iV 


LET. 


LET.   I.] 


WKST-rolNT. 


1.; 


o 


In  the  intcpvcning  vales  or  raHjur  ravines,  tlie  fislicrmnii  and 
wooiIcuKer  havenarod  fhcir  hiils  ,•  (he  eurliu;;  smoke  is 
seen  issuing  from  cabins  ctnbusoiiicd  uuiid  (liesc  nigged 
rocks. 

">V«'8(-Point  present!  d  ils  structures  perched  upon  a  small 
cape  of  level  land,  hut  every  viiere  surrounded  by  masses 
thai  seemed  to  mock  timcit.cif. 

I  landed,  and  rose  the  winding  path  that  led  to  this  ever 
memonible   spot  y^  a  place  that  was  the  scene  of  some  of 


*  Whilst  preparing  these  sheets  for  publication,  Ihc  folIoAviiig 
elegant  lines  appeared  in  the  Columbian,  from  the  pen  of  Dr. 
Van  Gelder,  of  New- York.  I  could  not  deny  my  readers  the 
pleasure  of  readipj  so  fine  a  description  of  the  grandeur,  even 
in  ruins^  of  Fort  Putnam. 

ON  THE  RUINS  OF  FOIIT  PUTNAM,  WEST-POINT. 

Dreary  and  lone  as  the  scenes  that  surround  thco, 
Thy  battlements  rise  'mi('  the  crags  of  the  wild, 

Yet  dear  are  thy  ruins,  for  bjiiihtly  around  thee 
'Twas  here  tl"?  first  dawn  of  our  Liberty  sniil'd. 

But  lonely's  thy  terrace — thy  walls  are  forsaken, 
In  ruins  around  thy  proud  ramparts  are  low, 

And  never  again  shall  thy  cannon  awaken 
The  echo  that  sleeps  in  the  vallies  below. 

Silence  now  reigns  thy  dark  ruins  among. 

Where  once  linill'd  the  fife  and  the  war-drum  beutloud^ 
Now  the  scream  of  the  eaglet  slow  gliding  along, 

Alone  sends  its  note  from  the  misls  of  the  cloud. 

But  where  are  the  heroes  whose  home  once  was  here, 
When  the  legions  of  Tyranny  ])eopled  our  shore — 

Wlio  here  rais'd  the  standard  to  Freedom  so  dear, 
And  guarded  their  home  'mid  the  battle's  fierce  roar  ? 

.    They   sleep  in  yon  vale — their  rude  fortress  below, 
Where  darkly  the  shade  of  the  cedar  is  fipread^ 
And  hoarse  through  the  valley  the  mountain-winds  blow, 
Where  lowly  they  rest  in  the  sleep  of  the  dead. 

The  flowers  of  the  forest  have  brighten'd  that  spot, 
The  wild  rose  lias  scattered  its  binom  o'er  that  ground 

Where  lonely  thry  lie — now  forgetting — forgot — 

Unawak'd  by  the  mountain-storm  thundering  around. 


k  .' 


ii 


MEST-POIM* 


[let.  t* 


in 


1 


the  most  reiiiiiikablc  events  oP  on*  unequalled  revulution. 
It  was  lieitf  (hat  Aniold's  lrcaeliei7  wan  met  by  the  stern 
virtue  ol' Wasliinj;lon  ;  il  was  near  this  place  that  Andre  ex- 
piated his  fully  with  his  life,  and  !;uiiied  an  imniurtal  name 
hy  an  i£;;?iominious  death. 

West-Point  presents  but  little  that  ean  interest  tlie  travel- 
ler, exeept  it  he  the  nohle  seenery  of  its  neiglihorhoud,  and 
events  of  hisfurieal  reminisccnee.  The  barraeks  ol' the  olli- 
eers  atid  cadets,  with  a  lew  scattering  houses  belonging  to 
individuals,  are  all  the  artifuial  improvements  worth  nolico 
at  this  establishment.  The  hank  is  high)  and  very  abrupt 
from  tiie  surlaee  of  the  water  in  the  river,  to  the  level  of  the 
plain  upou  which  the  barracks  aud  houses  are  built. 

AVith  considerable  fatigue,  I  scrambled  'ip  the  mountain 
to  the  ruins  of  Fort  Putnam.  Silence  and  delapidation  now 
reign  over  this  once  important  Fortress.  It  would  be  dilli' 
cult  to  conceive  of  a  more  impregnable  position.  Seated 
upon  an  elevated  mass  of  granite,  the  Fort  cccupied  almost 
the  entire  surface  upon  wliich  a  human  foot  could  be  set. 
A  very  steep  ascent,  of  more  than  .^00  perpendicular  feet, 
leads  from  the  plain  of  AVest-Point  to  the  scite  of  the  Fort, 
and  a  «^'ep  rock  hound  valley,  separates  it  from  the  genc!*aJ 
mass  of  tiK!  adjacent  mountains.  A  cistern  had  been  hewed 
out  of  the  solid  granite,  which  was  full  of  water  when  I 
visti'd  the  spot.  Cannon  placed  upon  the  walls  of  this  Fort, 
could  rake  the  entii-e  surface  of  "West-Point;  but  I  could 
not  perceive  any  serious  ojiposilion  it  could  hivve  presented 
to  the  passage  of  ships  of  war,  ascending  ov  descending  the 
Iliidsoii  river. 

The  landscape  from  the  ruined  bntdentents  of  Fort  Put- 
nam, is  very  interesting.  The  Fishkill  mountainis  seen 
from  this  place,  have  a  much  more  naked  and  rude  aspect, 
than  from  either  New  burg  or  Fishkill  landing.  Except 
upofi  the  opposite  shore  in  Putnam  county,  but  very  little  hu- 
man culture  enlivens  the  view.    ^Vest-Point  has  itself  a  sol- 


[let.  t* 

vuliifion. 
the  sk'in 
ndie  ex- 
(al  name 

If  <  ravel - 
00(1,  and 
the  ofli- 
nging  to 
th  notice 
;v  abrupt 
ml  or  the 

• 

mountain 
(ion  novr 
I  be  difH^ 
Seated 
(1  almost 
d  be  set. 
ilai'  feet, 
he  Fort, 
3  gene'aJ 
m  hewed 
'  when  I 
his  Fort, 
I  couhi 
resented 
iding  the 

»rt  Put- 

ns  seen 
}  aspect. 
Except 
ittle  hu- 
'If  a  5ol- 


".T.   1.] 


rOKT-rUTXAM. 


13 


itary  a  ipearanee,  and  to  the  west,  nought  is  sc«'ii  hut  woods, 
and  n  ouutains,  in  their  primitive  \^i!du('S3. 

If  seclusion  from  the  busy  haunts  of  men,  can  Ije  of  any 
benefit  to  the  students  at  AVestVoint,  the  enjoy  this  ndvan- 
tage  in  its  fuMest  extent.  Isolated  upon  the  eonfined  cape, 
from  which  the  i  u.iie  of  the  jilaee  is  derived,  the  river  on 
one  side  and  towevim^  mountains  on  the  other,  an  ui.'.ioken 
Milence  reigns  around  this  seminary.  Looking  down  from 
the  broken  walls  of  Fort  Putnam,  Dr.  Johnson's  Kasselas. 
came  strong  to  recollection.  1  could  not  avoid  recalling  to 
imaginary  life,  ihc  men  who  once  acted  on  this  little  but  re- 
markable theatsc.  1  felt  a  sentiment  of  awe,  amid  this  now 
lonely  waste,  on  recalling  to  nv'id  that  here  once  depended 
the  fite  of  a  new  born  nation.  Even  the  fallen  fragments 
of  s(onc  which  once  composed  part  of  its  buttresses,  inspi- 
red me  with  a  feeling  of  respect.  AVashington,  Greene, 
Putnam,  Andre,  and  Arnold,  arc  no  more  ;  their  names 
have  now  taken  their  respective  stations  in  history.  The 
opinion  of  maikind  is  formed  I'ipon  the  merits  of  the  three 
former,  and  the  shame  of  the  two  latter.  It  is  now  as  far 
beyond  the  reach  of  calumny,  to  tarnish  the  unfading  re- 
nown of  a  Washington,  a  Greene,  or  a  Putnam,  as  it  would 
be  for  the  human  hand  to  level  to  common  earth  the  enor- 
mous masses  of  the  Flsbkill  nauntains. 

With  slow  steps  I  descended  from  the  grey  I'emains  of  this 
venerable  pile,  and  east  a  frequent  and  repeated  retiring  look 
towards  its  mouldering  turrets.  The  shades  of  evening  were 
setting  in,  the  darkened  sides  of  tlie  distant  mountains,  seem- 
ed to  mark  a  sympathetic  gloom  with  that  which  hung  over 
the  deserted  Fortress,  'i'le  busy  hum  of  the  students  in 
their  evening  walks,  produced  an  interesting  contrast  with 
the  repose  in  which  rested  the  surrounding  scenery.  Such 
vas  the  events,  and  the  reflection  of  my  da>'s  visit  to  Mest- 
Point. 


16 


MANXrALTHrtfcS. 


[let.  I. 


U^ 


Oil  llio  mornliij;  of  the  23cl.  I  ugniii  paf«s(Ml  niili  cnci'cascd 
ndiiiii'utioi)  (he  Hi^  hlnids,  and  returned  (o  Fishkill  hindin;^. 
In  the  afternoon  I  went  to  visit  the  line  Faetory  of  Matc- 
owan«*  owned  by  Messrs.  SehenckN. 

I'he  scenery  near  Maieowan  is  wihl,  jneturesr"-  ,  and 
pleasing.  Here  I  first  witnt  '  the  etfeet,  produeed  upon 
the  smaller  streams  wiiich  dovv  .  )  the  Hudson  river,  from 
the  high  table  land  from  whieh  their  sources  are  derived. 
Flowing  over  a  surface,  elevated  many  hundred  feet  above 
tide  water  in  the  Hudson,  the  tributary  waters  of  that  river 
all  enter  by  cataracts  of  more  or  less  elevation.  Fishkill, 
(Mateowan)  eommenecs  its  fall  some  distance  above  Messrs. 
SSchencVs  factory,  giving  any  desirable  facility  to  the  appli- 
cation of  its  volume,  in  the  propulsion  of  machinery.  This 
characteristic  is  however,  general  to  almost  all  streants  that 
fall  into  the  Hudson  from  either  bank,  and  gives  to  the  in- 
habitants  near  the  borders  of  that  river,  a  facility  in  the  con- 
struction of  labour-saving  machinery,  possessed  on  so  large 
a  scale  in  few^  if  any  other  parts  of  the  earth. 

If  it  was  possible  for  American  industry  to  contend,  in  the 
present  order  of  things,  successfully  against  European  mo- 
nopoly, the  banks  of  the  Hudson  could  become  two  extend- 
ed lines  of  manufacturing  establishments ;  but  our  nativu 
exertions  wither  in  the  presence  of  foreign  commerce  and 
perverted  taste,  Nature  is  slowly  asserting  her  rights  in 
opposition  to  absurdly  continued  custom.  If  habit  had  made 
us  familiar  v  ith  sending  our  wheat,  to  be  converted  into 
Hour  in  English  mills,  we  would  now  consider  bread  made 
from  this  native  grain  and  foreign  machinery,  in  the  same 
favourable  degree  of  preference,  we  now  give  to  muslins 
made  in  Europe,  from  Carolina  aud  Georgia  cotton. 


If  J    . 


*  Mateowrln  is  the  Indian  name  of  Fishkill.  No  nations,  per- 
haps that  ever  existed,  gave  nnorc  sonorous  names  to  ]>laces,  than 
the  native  savages  of  North  America.  It  is  inucli  to  be  regretted 
iliat  their  nomenclature  bad  not  been  more  generally  preserved. 


LET.  I.] 


TIMUUH* 


17 


ciicreascd 

I  landing. 

of  Plate- 
s'"* ,  and 
lecd  iipoa 

vcr,  from 
e  derived, 
t't't  above 
that  I'ivei- 

Fi»likill, 
c  Messrs. 
llie  uppli- 
'.y.  I'Lis 
earns  tliut 

0  llic  in< 

1  (lie  eon- 
so  large 

id,  in  Hie 
pcan  nio- 
[>  extend- 
1'  nad'vi) 
eree  and 
'iglHs  in 
ad  made 
i(ed  into 
ad  made 
^>c  same 
muslins 


Jns,  pcr- 
es,  than 
c^groUed 
^served . 


Above  Fi»bkiil  (he  coimd'y  assumes  a  bill)'  ntid  t'oeKjt 
but  not  m(»untuinous  aspoei.  '['bo  strata  are  inclined  in 
nearly  paralkd  direction  to  tlie  Culskill  mountains.  Some 
limestone  occurs.  The  general  structure  of  the  bills  is, 
bowcver*  mica  slate.  The  soil  docs  not  exhibit  a  fertile  ap- 
pearance in  general,  though  Dutehess  eount)^  has  been  fam- 
ed for  its  productive  crops.  This  character  I  believe  Just 
as  rcsficctii  orchards  and  mendows.  Too  much  of  the  land 
is  cleared.  A  scarcity  of  timber  strikes  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  at  every  step,  and  the  trees  vbicb  exist  have  a 
stinted  appearance.^ 

*  The  following  extract  demonstrates  that  improvident  waste 
of  limber,  and  neglect  to  supply  daily  consumption,  is  not  con- 
lined  to  butchcss  county.  Error,  however,  gains  nothing  but 
notoriety  from  its  extent. 

"  The  Duke  of  Athol  is  now  enjoying  the  benefit  which  pro- 
vident ancestors  sometimes  confer  upon  iheir  lieirs.  His  (trace's 
estates  have  been  hitherto  considered  as  rather  extensive,  than 
productive  ;  but  his  forests  have  now  attained  to  such  a  growth, 
that,  we  understand,  he  will  be  r'ble  to  cut  timber  to  the  amount 
of  20,0001.  a  year,  we  may  say  almost  in  perpetuity,  as  he  has 
continued  the  practice  of  his  noble  father,  and  planted  millions 
of  trees  annually." 

In  reading  the  above  article,  we  could  not  suppress  -i  feel- 
ing of  regret  at  tire  evident  contrast  presented  in  the  oOnduct 
of  the  Duke  of  Athol's  '^provident  ancestor,"  to  the  improvi- 
dence of  landholders  generally  in  this  country.  The  decrease 
of  timber  for  building,  fuel,  &c.  is  already  a  great  inconvenience, 
and  is  every  day  becoming  more  serious  in  the  prospects  growing 
out  of  it.  The  evil  is  not  so  much  in  the  use  or  consumption  oi' 
the  timber,  (although  that  may  beunnecessarily  extravagant)  but 
in  the  utter  neglect  which  appears  every  where  to  prevail,  of  re- 
pairing the  devastation,  by  planting  new  trees,  and  taking  care 
of  the  young  growth.  Observation  has  convinced  us,  that  in  no 
part  of  the  coiuitry  is  its  neglect  more  apparent,  than  in  the  low- 
er parts  of  Delaware,  and  the  adjacent  parts  of  Maryland.  We 
mention  this  district  of  country  particularly,  because  in  travelling 
over  it,  (we  allude  especially  to  the  country  called  the  Levels, 
and  on  the  Bohemia,  and  Sassafras  rivers,)  we  were  striick  with 
its  fine  appearance,  in  soil,  its  fine  strenms,  and  its  easy  access  to 
market.  It  is  prob.able  to  this  last  circumstance  that  the  evil 
complained  of  may  in  some  part,  be  attributed  ;  the  high  price 


u 


\nnicut/ri'uc. 


[r-KT.  V 


In  all  (he  ex(en(  of  8e((It>(I  country  vithin  (ho  United 
Stiitest  two  epochs  huvu  pirctMkMl  caeli  other  in  the,  pru^rfM*( 
of  a;»ricuhure.  In  the  HrHt  epoch,  iniitiense  extent  of  land 
iii  elutued  of  (he  tiniher,  and  (he  Noil  rather  tortured  than 
euhivu(cd.  This  hvst,s  undl  (he  impoveriMhed  iUdds  and  min- 
ed fores(H,  ohlige  (he  farmers  (o  comnieneo  (he  second  epoeh. 
They  now  eoisio  (o  the  point  from  which  tliey  ought  to  huvu 
set  out.  Thi>y  now  Cul(iva(c  a  more  linii(ed  extent,  hut  that 
extent  hy  nsanuro  and  a  eureful  routine  of  crops,  beconie» 


of  timber  al  Bnltiniorc  having  iiuUiccd  the  ]>roprictors  or  tenants 
to  apply  the  nxo  with  so  dovaslatiny  u  hand,  that  the  ctumtry  is 
almost  bare  of  timber,  and  no  elloi'ls  seem  to  have  been  adopted 
to  supply  the  waste.  'IMio  conse(piencc  of  tiiis  destructive  habit  is, 
that  the  best  land  in  the  peninsula,  and  as  good  as  any  ii|  thceoun- 
try,  with  all  its  advantages  from  fine  navigable  streams  will  not 
sell  for  more  than  15,  20,  or  25  ilollais  per  acre,  in  addition  to 
the  inconvenience  arising  from  a  deficiency  of  fuel,  and  tind)er 
for  huilding.  It  may  be  said,  that  the  tenures  by  which  real  pro- 
perly is  held  in  this  country,  and  its  frequent  circulation  from 
iianil  to  tiand,  present  an  obstacle  to  any  ])lans  of  pcrman(;nt  im- 
provement, that  farmers  do  not  like  to  expend  money,  the  pro- 
iits  of  which  arc  to  be  enjoyed  by  posterity. 

We  would  regret  Jo  see  such  an  objection  seriously  urged,  in- 
volving as  it  does  a  censure  upon  the  freedom  of  our  institutions, 
which  arc  intimately  connected  with  the  proper  circulation  and 
oquilization  of  real  property.  We  suggest  the  subject  to  the 
agricultural  society  of  this  county,  as  a  j)roper  one  for  tlicur  con- 
sideration, if  they  will  encourage  the  planting  of  forest  trees,  and 
support  it  with  their  examples,  it  will  have  a  good  edeCt.  The 
price  of  land  will  be  undoubtedly  increased,  and  the  interests  of 
agriculture  advanced. 

There  is  one  fact  of  which  the  society  must  be  aware  ;  that 
in  this  country  and  the  peninsula  generally,  it  is  the  custom  with 
farmers  to  sow  or  cultivate  a  much  greater  quantity  of  land  than 
they  can  properly  manage  ;  a  coiisecjuence  of  which  is  that  a 
great  deal  of  good  land  is  thrown  away  ;  producing  about  one 
third  or  one  fourth  of  what  it  would  if  properly  manured  and  at- 
tended to.  If,  therefore,  many  of  our  farmers  would  limit  their 
industry  to  the  cultivation  of  one  half  or  one  third  of  their  usual 
quantity  of  land,  tbey  would  economize  their  labour  greatly,  cul- 
tivate their  lands  much  better,  produce  a  greater  quantity  of  grain 
and  grass,  and  the  surplus  would  remain  for  the  propagation  of 
timber." — Delaware  JFiitcfi man. 


1.RT.  t.] 


toUTriiE««H  cot  NT  r. 


f^ 


unnually  iimiu  uiid  iiioro  prodiiclive.  It  would  no  ilonlit 
Imve  rcHiiltod,  IVoni  (liu  ^i-rat  labour  and  i>\|H-nso  ol'  cloar- 
in(;  land,  lliul  faruK^i'M  \H)uld  have  (•oninuMiced  l>^  making 
the  iK'Mt  use  of  Muiall  enelosui'L's,  it'  a^riuultnio  had  hocn  iin- 
diM'sluod  scicntilicall^.  That  was  not  roimerl)r  tin*  < aH«?  any 
where  hi  (he  United  StatcM,  and  now  only  in  few  places.  Jt 
is  pleasing;  to  see  even  the  j;t'rni  of  a  bedei-  sy.steni.  A^ri- 
eulture  is  iniprovin;;  ;  oureilizens  be;;in  to  learn  that  their 
Melds  inay  be  made  nioi'u  prolltable,  and  less  expensive. 

Dutchess  coun(y  is   about  15  miles  lon^;  north  and  soulh^ 
and  twenty-Uvo  miles  in  breadth  cast  and  west,  IVoni  Con< 
nectieut  line  to  the  Hudson  river.  This  county  at  present,  ex- 
tends over  an  area  of  very  nearly  800  square  miles.    Duteh- 
chs  was  formerly  more  extensive,  (he  townships  south  of  (he 
Fishkill  ntountains.  I'hilipstown,  Kent,  Paterson,  Southeast, 
and  Carmel,  were  in  the  Legislative  session  of  181 '-2  erected 
Into  a  separate  county,  and  named  Putnam.     By   (he  census 
of  1810,  the  entire  county  of  Dutchess,  possessed  a  popula- 
tion of  5l,WZt  but  of  this  amount  the  now  county  of  Put- 
nam contained  8,i-82  persons  ;  leaving  in   Dulchess  a  nc(t 
amount  of  i.i,y30.    Tiiis  divided  by  800,  yields  53,0+  to  the 
square  mile,  a  very  thin  population  ;  yet  the  county  is  per- 
haps  more  than  two  tltirds  cleared  of  wood  ;    and  if  so,  al- 
lowing the  population  to  be  now  (>0  to  the  square  mile,  would 
average  more  (ban  seven  acres  of  o|)en  land  to  each  individ- 
ual.    I   am  well  convinced   this  calculation  is  by  no  mer-nij 
overrated  near  the    Hudson,  or   indeed  in    any  part  of  the 
(bounty.     The  great  distances  between  the  houses,   and  the 
wide  sweep  of  (he  fields  and  meadows,  give  the  country  a 
lonely  appearance. 

iiight  miles  above  Fishkill,  "Wappingcr's  creek  falls  into 
the  Hudson.  'i^'he  latter  is  a  much  more  considerable 
stream  than  the  former,  but  are  similar  in  tumbling  over  el- 
evated ledges  of  rock,  previous  to  joining  the  Hudson 

"Where  the  road  passes  Wappingcr^s  creek,  some  mills  and 
^ther  machinery  iiave  been  erected.    The  road  crosses  the 


'""vvf 


m 


MAPPINGEU'S    CREEK. 


[r.ET.  I. 


f  1 


i.  ,  11. 


J! 


creek  by  a  substanlial  wooden  bridge,  over  nearly  (he  mid- 
dle of  the  fall.  The  volume  of  water  was  considerable,  even 
^Iien  i  passed  it,  though  a  Ion,:;  deartli  had  preceded  my 
journey.  The  white  surge  dasliing  itupetuously  over  the 
shelving  roeks,  and  amongst  the  wliecls  of  the  different  wvi- 
ter  works,  produced  a  fine  e^i^cU  This  place  affords  a  pleas- 
ing variety  on  this  road. 

Above  "Wappinger's  creek,  the  face  of  the  country  be- 
oomes  more  uniform,  and  the  soil  assumes  a  less  rude  aspect 
than  bttween  the  creek  and  the  now  receding  Highlands. 

Many  points  of  rising  ground,  present  very  extensive  and 
beautiful  landscape  views.  The  Highland,  ShawanG;unk,  and 
Catskill  mountains,  are  alternately  and  often  all  visible  from 
the  same  place.  The  Hudson  can  sometimes  be  seen  glitter- 
ing low  in  the  deep  vale,  through  which  it  flows.  Here  in 
many  places,  appear  <he  vestiges  of  tlie  ancient  lake,  which 
filled  the  region  above  the  Highlands.  Independent  of  the 
mountains,  the  hills  which  once  bounded  this  sheet  of  water, 
are  distinctly  discernible  to  the  cast  and  west.  These  hills 
are  about  30  miles  separate,  the  intermediate  space  was  the 
breadth  of  the  lake,  giving  it,  though  07  a  larger  scale,  the 
general  characteristic  of  the  yet  existing  lakes  Champlain 
and  George. 

Viewing  a  map  of  Orange,  Ulster  and  Dutchess  counties, 
a  singular  fact  in  the  geology  o*"  the  region  they  occupy,  ob- 
trudes itself  to  observation.  The  water  courses  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Hudson,  in  Orange  and  Ulster,  flow  considerably 
north  of  east,  and  enter  that  river  very  oblicjuely.  This  is 
the  ease  with  the  streams  of  Wallkill,  Itondout,  and  Esopus. 
In  Dutchess,  Fishkill,  AVappinger's,  and  oiher  creeks,  run 
south  of  east,  in  very  nearly  parallel  courses,  but  contrary 
directions  to  those  which  enter  by  the  opposite  bank. 

The  elevated  table  land  iVom  which  all  these  streams  de- 
rive their  souroes,  lies  apparently  nearly  on  a  general  level, 
and  forms  a  vallev,  which  crosses  the  Hudson  in  the  direc- 
(ion  of  the  water  courses.    Are  we  not  Justifiable  in  coneln- 


m.' 


1 1 


I'i 


X.ET.  I.j 


rOUGllKEEFSIE. 


2i 


cling  that  (liis  >vas  once  the  course  of  the  lake  discharge  ? 
By  what  process  of  nature  did  tlie  Hudson  scoop  its  present 
channel,  so  far  beneath  the  bottom  of  this  former  inland 
sea,  so  far  even  beneath  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  thi:ough 
a  continuous  mass  of  rock  ?  If  you  can  ans\ver  this  query, 
if  you  can  explain  this  phenomenon,  you  will  do  me  and  the 
world  a  favor.  I  am  unable  to  even  conjecture  the  process 
of  this  mighty,  this  unequalled  work. 

Poughkccpsic,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Dutchess  county, 
stands  upon  the  table  land  of  the  Hudson,  sixteen  miles  from 
Fisiikill.  1  arrived  here  in  the  afternoon  of  the  25th  Aug. 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  26th«  took  an  extensive  ramble 
over  its  streets  and  environs.  The  town  is  in  the  form  of  a 
cross,  the  two  principal  streets  crossing  each  other  nearly 
at  right  angles.  The  houses  are  scattered,  and  the  inter- 
vening spaces  planted  with  trees.  A  road  leads  down  a  long, 
steep,  and  in  many  places  very  abrupt  hill,  from  Poughkecp- 
sic  to  the  landing,  on  the  Hudson  river.  This  circumstance 
subjects  the  inhabitants  to  great  inconvenience.  The  oppo- 
site shore  is  broken,  rocky,  barren  and  desolate.  The  town 
contains  at  present  about  2000  Inhabitants.  The  houses  have 
a  decent  plainness  in  their  exterior^  a  character  they  have  no 
doubt  received  from  the  moral  taste  of  the  inhabitants.  I 
have  visited  few  places,  where  a  more  mild,  conciliating  de- 
portment was  observed  to  the  stranger. 

Some  manufactures  are  csiablished  in  Poughkeepsie ;  the 
principal  of  which,  is  that  of  Messrs  Booth's  woollen  cloth 
manufactory;  Some  very  beautiful  and  very  excellent  cloth 
has  been  made  at  this  establishment.  It  is  now  contending 
like  all  similar  works  in  the  United  States,  with  high  wages, 
enhanced  price  of  raw  material^  European  competition,  and 
long  established  public  prejudice  in  favor  of  foreign  produc- 
tions. 

Except  the  inconsistency  of  their  opinions  and  conduct, 
nothing  can  be  more  idle,  than  the  expressions  you  may  now 
hear  in  every  conversation  in  our  country,   upon  domcstie 


sa 


POVt;ilIiGEi'SlG. 


[let*  Xi 


I 


1  ( 


y. 


■  i 


manufatturcd  floods  of  an^^  kind.  **  Encourage  the  fi*aincrs 
"  or  our  own  products.  1  prcfcp  (o  see  my  neighbors  dres- 
"  sed  in  home  um<k'  cloth.  Tiic  day  we  trust  is  not  far  dis- 
«  tant  Avhen  we  can  put  European  nations  at  defiance.  Our 
«  necessities  \vill  be  supplied  at  home.''  A  thousand  such 
declamations  may  he  heard  in  every  assembly  of  people,  ami 
in  many  instances,  Qot  one  yard  of  home  made  clothing 
could  he  found  upon  the  whole  company. 

This  is  not,  however,  the  only  instance,  where  theory  and 
practice  are  at  variance  in  the  affairs  of  niankind. 

Stepping  into  a  Bookstore  in  Poughkeepsie,  I  was  led  to 
make  a  reflection  I  have  often  made  before.  Bookstores 
afford,  particularly  in  small  villages  and  country  places,  tho 
best  data,  from  which  can  be  calculated  the  state  of  public 
literary  improvement.  Booksellers,  like  .other  merchants, 
are  regulated  in  their  importations  by  the  taste  of  their  cus- 
tomers. 

In  large  cities,  where  schools,  colleges,  and  other  estab- 
lishments for  the  promotion  of  general  instruction,  exist  on 
H  large  scale,  almost  all  kinds  of  books  arc  found  in  Book- 
stores ;  but  in  remote  country  villages  few  books  are  offer- 
ed for  sale,  except  those  of  daily  demand. 

After  school  books,  the  most  common  arc  religious  tracts 
of  different  kinds,  published  for  the  use  of  the  various  sects 
which  iuliabit  the  country  ;  these,  with  a  few  of  the  most 
popular  novels,  form  the  mass  of  the  volumes  upon  the 
shelves  of  the  village  bookseller. 

Works  on  general  science  are  rare,  and  even  treatises  upon 
political  economy,  (except  pamphlets  upon  daily  occurren- 
ces, mostly  personal)  are  not  often  seen  beyond  the  limits  of 
our  large  commercial  cilics. 

In  the  United  States,  the  most  usefiil  of  all  human  read- 
ing, iiisroHv,  is  neglected.  The  most  prominent  events  of 
their  own  country,  are  known  to  but  comparatively  few  of 
our  citizens.  Briilsli  history  has  shared  the  most  attention 
fro!M  our  readers,  l)ut  even  that  heterogeneous  and  conflicting 


TJ-- 


f 


[let*  X. 

?  (lie  framcTs 
ghbors  dres- 
not  far  (lis* 
fiance.  Our 
ousand  such 
■  people,  and 
n\c  cluthing 

5  theory  and 

d. 

[  was  led  to 

Bookstores 
y  places,  tho 
te  of  public 

merchants, 
>f  theh"  cus- 

>ther  estab- 
on,  exist  on 
nd  in  Book- 
are  offer- 

^ious  traces 
rioHs  sects 
)f  the  most 
s  upon  the 

atises  upon 
'  occurrcn- 
le  limits  of 

iman  read- 
t  events  of 
dy  few  of 
it  attention 
conflicting 


liET.  I.] 


IIIII.VEUECK. 


2S 


subject,  they  generally  but  superficially  understand.  Though 
it  may  bo.  doubted  whether  the  reading  of  history,  tends  to 
produce  all  the  beneficial  results,  usually  expected  to  flow 
from  that  species  of  literature  ;  yet  it  is  in  history  alone, 
that  the  treasured  experience  of  our  race  is  recorded.  It  is 
true  that  lessons  of  experience,  Avhen  not  taught  by  physi' 
cal  sulTering,  arc  seldom  very  profoundly  remembered,  or 
correctly  acted  upon.  It  is  also  true,  that  though  the  im- 
pressions made  upon  our  minds  by  (he  virtue  or  crimes,  the 
wisdom  or  fully  of  others,  are  slight  and  transient,  in  a  ratio 
of  distance  from  the  scenes  ol*  our  own  personal  cares ;  yet 
salutary  impressions  are  made,  and  liberal  opinions  contract- 
ed, fi'om  reading  the  events  of  nations  that  exist  no  more,  as 
well  as  from  those  wiiich  concern  the  most  remote  people 
upon  our  planet. 

August  27th,  I  left  Poughkeepsie  early  in  the  morning  ,• 
a  shower  in  the  preceding  ui^lit  had  given  freshnrss  to  the 
air.     Proceeding  along  the  road  towards  hhinebeck,  a  found 
the  country  extremely  pleasant.     A  turnpike  road  has  been 
made  from   Poughkeepsie    11  miles  ;    the  surface   of   the 
ground  uneven  rather  than  hilly.     A  few  miles  from  Pough- 
keepsie the  tabic  land  becomes  more  flat,  and  in  some  places 
so  much   so,   as  to  resemble  the  bottom  of  a  large   river. 
Rhinebeck  stands  upon  one  of  those  elevated  plains,  is  built 
in  the  Dutch  taste ;  all  the  houses  have  a  comfortable,  and 
a  few  an  elegant  exterior  ;  (hey  are  interspersed  with  orch- 
ards, meadows,  grain  fields  and  gardens.      To  me,  nr  object 
is  more  satisfactory  than  these  scattered  villages,  where  ev- 
ery species  of  cultivation  seem  blended.     In  large  cities,  the, 
great  field  and  rich  mead  are  banished,  to  make  way  for  the 
various  objects  of  luxury  and  commerce  ;  but  in  these  rural 
villages,  enough  remains  of  rude  nature  to  reeal  the  mind  to 
the  ages  of  primitive  simplicity,  whilst  enough  is  created  by 
art  to  gratify  the  wants  of  civilized  man. 

In  ascending  towards  the  north  from  the  Highlands,  along 
the  elevated  plains  of  the  Hudson,  as  the  Fishkill  mountaim* 


^i 


tf:  ■; 


U      '■ 


'\ 


^% 


KINGSTON. 


[(LET.  'r* 


are  depressed  by  l-eccssion,  those  of  Calskill  rise  from  ap- 
prouch.  Tlie  latter  chain  presents  a  bold  and  imposing 
front  from  Rhinebcck.  Rising  in  mnjosty  their  blue  tups» 
and  gradually  sloping  sides,  are  peculiarly  pleasing  to  the 
eye,  nhilst  their  pyriuiidal  form  cvinee  a  duration,  commen- 
surate with  time  itself.  The  village  of  Rhinebcck  stands 
near  two  miles  from  the  margin  of  the  Hudson,  ^vith,  as  usu- 
al, a  high  rocky  intervening  bank.  From  Rhinebcck  vil- 
lage the  ground  falls  rapidly.  AVhen  the  river  is  approach- 
ed, a  wihl  and  picturesque  landscape  opens  ;  the  \>'cst  bank 
of  the  Hudson  is  rugged  ami  extremely  broken  ;  the  Cats- 
kiU>mountains  rise  upon  tlie  back  ground,  and  terminate  >vith 
their  rounded  cones  the  distant  view.  The  road  from 
Rhinebeck  ferry,  winds  up  tlie  v/c^tern  sleeps  of  the  Hud- 
son, amid  broken  fragments  of  rock.  The  eminences  are 
clothed  with  pine,  cedar  and  oak  ;  evey  object  announces 
sterility.  Nothing  is  seen,  that  can  give  the  slightest  anti- 
cipation of  llie  fertile  and  beautiful  valley  of  Esopus,  into 
which,  a  ride  of  three  miles  from  the  Hudson  river  carries 
the  traveller. 

I  do  not  remember  to  have  ever  enjoyed  a  more  agreeable 
surprize,  or  to  have  seen  a  transition  more  rapid,  than  in 
passing  from  the  sterile  and  shapeless  summits  of  the  Hud- 
son hills,  to  the  fine  and  extended  plain,  upon  which  stands 
the  roDiantic  village  of  Esopus  or  Kingston.  This  little,  but 
interesting  town^  recals  to  mind  some  memorable  events  of 
the  revolutionary  war.  Its  inhabitants  were  amongst  the 
first  and  most  zealous  opposers  of  British  aggression,  in  the 
then  colony  of  New-York,  and  of  course  mai'ked  for  ven- 
geauce  by  the  officers  of  the  crown,  who  commanded  on 
the  New- York  station.  In  the  summer  of  1777,  while  Gen. 
Burgoyne  was  |)enetrating  from  the  north  towards  Albany, 
a  British  squadron  ascended  the  Hudson  river  from  New- 
York,  and  landed  a  body  of  troops  near  the  mouth  of  the 
M'allkill,  who  marched  to,  and  burnt  the  defenceless  village 
of  Kingston. 


W 


;c  from  ap- 
i1  imposing 
'  blue  (ops, 
sing  to  the 
1,  commcii- 
teck  stands 
itht  as  usu- 
lebcck  \il- 
3  approach- 
;  \>est  bank 
1  the  Cats- 
ninatc  "tvith 
road  from 
f  tlie  llud- 
nences  ar^i 
announces 
htest  anti- 
sopus,  into 
ver  carries 

!  agreeable 
id,  than  in 
'  the  Hud- 
lieh  stands 
}  little,  but 
e  events  ol' 
nongst  the 
ion,  in  the 
I  lor  ven- 
nanded  on 
vhilc  Gen. 
s  Albany, 
I'om  New- 
lith  of  the 
ess  village 


Ut.  i.j 


Kingston. 


si 


The  inhabitants  had  but  a  few  moments'  iaformaliun  of 
the  apppof»eh  of  their  eneniy,  before  their  actual  arrival. 
A  tumultuous  flight  ensued,  and  before  quitting  (he  view  of 
their  dwellings,  the  smolve  of  the  lire  that  devoured  them 
ascended  to  heaven.  The  consequence  of  (hid  act  of  Mind 
rage,  was  Just  what  cdmmon  sense  would  have  expected  ;  a 
more  inveterate  opposition  to  tlib  Brilish  gcivcrnment.  To 
feelings  of  revolutionary  enthusiasm,  was  :iddc<l  personal 
resentment.  Some  of  the  stono  wails  still  remain,  to  attest 
the  destructive  scene.  Most  of  the  houses  then  burned, 
have  long  since  been  repaired  oi'  re-built  ;  biit  a  few  stand 
imtouched  ;  (heir  mouldering  remains,  force  (he  imagination 
to  retrace  the  lapse  of  thirty-nine  years,  and  amid  the  smok- 
ing ruins  of  theii'  once  happ;;^  homes,  behold  the  mournful 
Visages  of  (he  returning  inhabitants^  behold  them  turning 
an  eye  of  vengeance  after  the  destroyers  of  their  property. 
An  inscription  upon  the  end  of  the  village  church,  records^ 
this  deed  of  barbarism,  this  day  of  mourning,  the  14(h  of 
October,  1777.  The  hour  of  vengeance  was  indeed  near ; 
three  days  after,  Burgoyne  Jind  his  army  surrenderi'd  pris- 
oners of  war  at  iSaratoga.  The  pride  of  the  spoiler  was 
turned  to  defeat,  mortification  and  disgrace. 

Time  and  industry  have  here  effaced  the  ravages  of  war. 
Few,  if  any  villages  in  theUnitcd  States,  present  at  this  mo- 
ment, an  air  of  mot*e  domestic  comfort,  plenty  and  eascj 
than  does  Kiiigston.  The  houses  are.  scattered,  and  gener- 
ally built  after  the  old  Dutch  taste,  low,  with  few  windows, 
and  those  small.  Some  more  modern  dwellings,,  are  excep- 
tions to  the  common  mode,  being  constructed  with  an  ele- 
gance and  eonveniencb  equal  to  the  houses  of  any  of  our 
country  towns. 

Kingston  stands  upon  an  elevated  and  extensive  plain,  be- 
tween the  llondout  and  Esopus  creeks.  Confining  (he  view 
to  the  site  of  the  town  and  adjacent  country,  the  traveller 
would  suppose  himself  on  the  alluvion  of  a  river.  IFe  is  so 
irt  fact,  the  plain  is  a  complete  accretion,  formed  by  the  an- 

n 


i6 


KINGSTON. 


[let.  I. 


5r'!=. 


i 


;  m 

•i' 


itivnt  state  of  the  country,  and  by  the  neighboring  streams. 
The  soil  is  sanely,  but  extremely  fertile  and  well  cultivated  ; 
the  meadows  and  orchards  arc  numerous  and  excellent.  I 
had  m  means  to  ascertain  with  precision,  the  elevation  of 
the  Kingston  plain  above  the  level  of  tide  water  in  the  Hud- 
son, but  carefully  examining  the  ground,  along  which  the 
intervening  road  winds,  should  be  led  to  believe  that  the  dif- 
ference of  level,  must  exceed  three  hundred  feet.  Though 
16  miles  distant,  the  Catskill  mountains,  from  their  eleva- 
tion, seem  to  be  much  nearer,  and  give  to  Kingston  an  ap- 
pearance of  Ijing  low,  though  standing  upon  ground  so 
much  above  the  surface  of  Hudson  river. 

In  making  the  tour  of  this  part  of  the  United  States,  no 
traveller  ought  to  pass  without  visiting  Kingston,  and  every 
stranger  will  be  pleased  with  the  soft  beauty  of  its  scenery, 
■with  Its  retired  situation,  and  with  the  plain  but  affable  man- 
ners of  its  inhabitants. 

August  29lb,  I  left  Kingston,  and  in  the  evening  of  the 
same  day  arrived  in  Hudson.  It  is  along  this  part  of  the 
Hudson,  that  the  Catskill  mountains  can  be  seen  to  most 
advantage.  Their  august  cones  seem  almost  to  rise  from 
the  river  though  eight  or  ten  miles  distant.^ 

*  The  following  statement  of  the  heights  of  mountains  on  the 
Hudson  river,  were  calculated  by  Capt.  Partridge,  and  are  deem- 
ed correct. 


Antl.ony's  Nose, 
Bare  Mount, 
Crow's  Nest, 
Butter  Hill, 
New  Heacon, 
Fort  Putuani, 

Round  Top, 


936 


\n  '  "! 


% 


Neversink  Heights, 
Slaten  Islatxl, 
Hempstead  Harbour  Hill, 


Highlands 

ftet,        Sugar  Loaf, 
1350  feet, 
1418  feet, 
1529  feet, 
1535  feet, 

598  feet, 

Catskill  Meuntains. 
3105  feet.        High  Peak, 

Below  J^ew-York. 


Bull  Hill, 
Break  Neck, 
Old  Beacon, 


866  feet, 

1484  feet, 

1187  feet, 

1471  feet, 


W.  Point  Plain,   188  feet. 


5019  feet. 


282  feet, 

307  feet, 

319  feet. 

{JS^whurg  Politml  Iiided\\ 


tl   iii'iiii 


M 


'ii  ■>'• 


I.ET.  I.] 


ci*rY  or  uuDsaiv. 


^ 


Concealed  by  the  peninsula,  lielwcen  llic  Ituilson  and 
Catskill  creek,  but  a  small  part  ol'  (he  toM  n  of  Catskill  can 
be  seen  from  the  river.  As  I  desii'cd  to  see  all  (he  to\vn» 
near  the  margin  of  the  Hudson,  I  determined  to  return  to 
Catskill,  before  ascending  to  the  i.orth  of  the  town  of  Hud- 
son. 

This  latter  village  has  a  prosperous  appearance ;  its  site 
h  the  most  favorable  to  connect  the  adjacent  country  to  the 
Mver^  of  any  town  or  the  Hudson,  between  New- York  and 
Troy.  The  situation  of  Hudson  is  pleasant,  rising  fii'st  by 
a  steep  bank  of  50  or  60  feet^  and  (hence  gradually  front 
(he  bank.  That  part  of  the  town  which  appi-oaches  the  wa- 
ter, stands  upon  a  peninsula  projecting  considerably  into  the 
river,  and  aflbrding  a  vet'y  tine  view  both  (o  (he  north  and 
south,  partiiculai^ly  the  former.  On  the  opposite  shore 
stands  the  village  of  Athens,  in  Greene  county.  The  latter 
(own  rises  like  Newburg,  though  less  abrupt  from  the  water 
edge;  every  house  and  the  a<ljacent  farms  can  be  seen  at  one 
view,  from  the  bank  of  the  Hudson.  Athens  is  small,  and 
no  great  prospect  exists  of  any  augmentation  of  consc- 
"Quence.  The  Schoharie  turnpike  road  leaves  the  Hudson 
river  at  Athens,  and  following  the  valley  of  Catskill  along 
its  north  side,  penetrates  the  interior  of  New- York,  by 
winding  round  the  CatskMl  mountains.  The  Susquehanna 
turnpike  road  leaves  the  Hudson  at  the  town  of  Catskill,  and 
following  the  south  side  of  the  creek  of  that  name,  runs 


When  I  passed  the  Same  part  of  the  Hudson  on  my  last  tour, 
(May  3(1,  1818,)  the  Catskill  mountains  wore  covoied  with  snow, 
apparently  almost  to  tlieir  base.  Tins  latter  circumstance,  was 
Ijowever,  no  doubt  a  deception  in  vision,  as  many  of  tlie  hills 
near  the  Hudson  bank,  ti:e  live  or  six  hundred  feet  liigli,  and  the 
snow  had  now  disappeared  from  their  summits.  The  whole 
country  had,  however,  the  dreary  marks  of  winter.  Scarce  a 
new  boi"n  leaf  announced  the  approach  of  spring.  The  air  was 
cold,  chilly,  and  moist.  The  njountains  of  Berkshire,  in  Massa- 
chusetts, and  the  Green  mountains  in  Vermont,  appeared  far  oU 
the  N.  E.  horizon,  also  white  with  snow. 


KKIGIIDOIU^U    SCENERY. 


LET.  I. 


V'''. 


V 


n 


ncurly  parallel  lo  tlic  Schoharie  loul,  and  like  it  leads 
(hruii|;h  Greene  county,  into  the  cenlrul  parts  of  tlie  state. 
Tlv'se  roads  render  Hudson  a  thorouj^lilarc  IVoni  the 
New  En{;laud  states,  (or  ejuigranls  passiiiu;  to  the  north  part 
of  lVnusyl>u)iia,  and  llie  eonli^uous  part  of  Mew- York. 

A  iidge  of  land,  rocky,  prccijMtous,  atid  {generally  very 
barren,  follows  both  hanks  of  the  Hudson  river,  occasionally 
interrupted.  ]?ihiiul  these  ridges  and  parallel  to  (hem,  lies 
two  broken  valleys  of  more  or  less  widtli.  All  the  towns 
upon  this  singular  river,  are  placed  upon  the  interruptions 
of  these  ridges.  Hudson  is  a  rt  inarkablc  cxujnple.  1  have 
already  noticed  the  peninsula,  which  forms  the  port  of  Hud- 
son.  This  peninsula  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  a  bay,  tcr- 
iilinated  by  clay  blulfs,  which  are  yielding  to  the  action  of 
the  water ;  and  on  the  south  extends  another  bay,  which 
gradually  shallows,  and  ends  in  a  deep  inorass.  South  of 
this  swamp  rises  a  very  high  hill,  the  nordi  abutment  of  one 
of  the  ridges  I  have  already  noticed.  Behind  tlie  town  of 
Hudson,  to  Ihc  eastward,  the  ground  rises  into  considerable 
elevation,  overlooking  from  its  summit  a  vast  expanse  of 
country,  includifig  the  tow  us  of  Hudson  and  Athens  ;  the 
river  for  many  miles  ;  its  variegated  shores,  and  perhaps 
the  best  prospect  that  exists  of  the  Catskill  mountuins.  To 
point  out  the  charming  views  included  in  this  elegant  pic-^ 
lure,  would  be  to  describe  every  hill,  dale  and  slope  witliii 
its  limits.  In  every  direction  to  which  the  eye  can  be  turn- 
ed, a  new  and  elegant  landscape  opens,  and  presents  its 
beauties^  its  character  of  distinctive  attraction,  and  an  out- 
line that  renders  it  a  little  whole  in  itself. 

It  may  indeed  be  considered  as  peculiar  fo  the  Hudson 
scenery,  that  almost  all  the  variety  that  the  face  of  the  eartli 
can  afford,  is  often  condensed  into  a  compass  of  very  limited 
extent.  Environed  by  cliffs,  crowned  with  dwarf  oak,  pine 
and  cedar,  the  traveller  often  finds  a  projecting  bank,  some- 
times rising  bold,  rude  and  rocky  ;  at  others,  swelling  abov 
Ihji  wave  in  rounded  prominences.     Upon  such  banks^  arc 


./  ir'^' 


XET.  I, 

3  it  leads 
lliu  state. 
IVu  111  the 
north  part 
York, 
'rally  very 
ceasioiiully 
thcni,  lies 
I  the  to\vn» 
ierruptions 
le.  I  have 
rt  of  II ud^ 
a  bay,  ter- 
e  aetioii  ol" 
)5iy,  wliieh 
South  oC 
iient  of  one 
lie  town  of 
Misiderablo 
wpanse  of 
hens  ;  (he 
id  perhaps 
tains.  To 
egant  pic-' 
>pc  M  it  hi  I 
in  be  turn- 
resents  its 
nd  an  out- 

16  Hudson 
the  eartli 
vy  limited 
oak,  pine 
nk,  some- 
ing  abo> 
anks,  are^ 


LET.  l.J 


NEIGfIliOniN&   SCE77ERY. 


2i 


(milt  niiiny  of  the  finest  country  seals  in  tha  United  States  ; 
and  if  a  vaiiej^ated  country  can  give  gralification  to  refined 
taste,  there  are  few  places  on  earth  where  summer  can  ho 
enjoyed  with  more  delight.  In  passing  the  Hudson,  it  is  in 
the  highest  d<'gi'ee  pleasing,  to  view  those ediliees  amid  so 
many  natural  contrasts.  From  the  city  of  New-York  this 
elegant  variety  greets  the  voyager,  above  the  highlands  it 
becomes  more  frequent  and  striking,  and  in  no  exient  of  tii() 
Hudson  river,  does  its  peculiar  traits  arrest  attention  with 
more  force,  than  near  the  town  of  Hudson.  The  second  day 
after  my  ai'rival  in  the  neighborhood,  I  travci  cd  the  road 
from  Hudson  to  Coliimbiaville,  near  the  mouth  of  Kinder- 
hook.  The  road  follo>ys  the  dividing  ridge  between  the  eas- 
tern branch  of  Kinderhook  creek  and  the  Hudson  river,  and 
in  many  places,  commands  very  extensive  views  of  the  sur- 
rounding  country. 

At  one  glance  is  often  seen  the  majestic  Hudson,  its  evei* 
varied  banks,  the  tleeting  sail,  apparently  mingling  with  the 
farm  houses,  and  above  and  beyond  tiiis  spft  picture  of  peace- 
ful industry,  rises  the  blue  ridges  of  the  distant  mountains. 

Near  the  mouth  of  Kindt' rhook,  commences  a  very  striking 
change  in  the  physiognomy  of  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  ;  the 
Iiills  are  less  abrupt,  and  the  bottoms  are  now  more  extensive 
than  farther  south.  The  soil  presents  no  very  striking  dif- 
ference from  that  found  in  the  interval  between  this  place  and 
the  Highlands;  but  the  general  aspect  of  the  country  as- 
sumes a  new  character.  Though  still  broken,  the  face  of 
the  country  on  both  hanks,  is  more  uniform  than  the  surface 
of  either  Dutciiess,  Orange,  or  Greene  counties. 

Kmderhook  Creek  is  formed  from  two  branches,  the  Cla- 
verack,  and  the  Kinderhook  properly  so  called.  I'ha  for- 
mer rises  in  the  township  of  Hillsdale  in  Columbia  county, 
and  running  first  east,  gradua' j  turns  south  and  south-west, 
and  approaching  within  three  or  four  miles  of  that  river,  fin- 
ally assumes  a  northern  course,  forming  in  all  its  oourse,  a 
Mini-cUipse  of  about  thirty  miies  in  length.     Kinderhook 

D3 


10 


KINUEUIIOOK    ORUKK. 


[LRT.  I. 


LE' 


IH 


vises  ill  the  (oi^Mihliip  of  Berlin,  in  Renssehier  county,  nnd 
pursuing  a  eoui'su  suulli  or  suuth-ensl,  in  very  nenrly  an  op« 
posile  (liKClion,  Joins  (he  Cluverack  uhout  one  mile  and  a 
hair  IVom  the  Hudson  ;  the  united  stream  unites  with  that 
I'ivcr,  after  heing  precipitated  over  considerahle  ledges  of 
transition  slate.  The  curious  strueture  of  this  country  ap- 
pears from  the  cireumstance,  that  the  Jansens  or  Aucrauk 
creek*  rising  also  in  IJillsdale,  winds  round  the  Claveraek,  at 
seven  or  eight  miles  distance  from  the  latter  stream.  The 
courses  of,  indeed*  nearly  all  the  watercourses  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, have  a  correspondence,  approaching  the  regulari- 
ty of  ur>  ;  their  positiun  must  have  been  determined  hy 
some  general  cause,  some  operation  of  nature,  common  to  a 
considerable  extent  of  country.  It  preserves,  however,  so 
much  of  the  general  character  of  ihe  Hudson  banks,  as  tu 
present  a  more  broken  surface  near,  than  at  a  di/itance  from 
llini  river. 

Where  the  road  from  Hudson  to  Albany  crossc^s  Kfnder- 
liook  crerk,  a  tine  wooden  bridge  was  erected  a  few  years 
past.  AVithin  a  few  paces  below  the  bridge,  on  the  .louth  side 
of  the  creek,  the  Messrs.  Jenkins'  of  Hudson,  have  a  fme 
merchant  mill,  and  directly  opposite  the  mill»  stands  a  large 
cotton  factory.  During  the  last  war  a  little  villagoi  rose 
around  this  factory,  inhabited  by  weavers,  spinners  and  oth^ 
er  vvorkme...  It  is  now  languishing  like  other  similar  es- 
tablishments«  and  from  like  causes. 

'I'he  ereek  rolls  over  different  ledges  of  rock,  under  and 
above  the  bridge,  which  produces  the  fall  of  water  necessary 
to  propel  the  machinery  below.  The  tide  flows  up  to  the 
mill  and  factory.  The  adjacent  country  is  hilly,  particular- 
ly south  of  the  creek.  The  works  lie  so  low  that  the  trav- 
eller is  within  a  few  paces  hefoi'e  he  can  perceive  their  posit 
lion  ;  and  when  viewing  them  from  the  south  bank,  cannot 
but  be  pleased  with  the  rnral  features  of  the  place.  From 
the  eminence  above  the  mill,  can  be  seen  the  fine  farm  an^ 
iicat  of  Mr.  Robert  Livingston^  upon  the  point  of  lanci  he« 


1>V« 

opi 


peu 


tlii 


[let.  I. 

u»(y,  and 
v\y  an  op- 
mile  and  a 
\  ml\i  llial 
ledges  ot* 
juntry  ap- 
r  Aaei'am 
vcraek,  at 
am.  The 
his  neigh- 
)  regulari- 
mineU  hy 
union  to  a 
iwever,  so 
iks^  as  to. 
ance  i'roin 

s  Kinder- 
few  years 
;iouth  side 
ave  a  line 
ds  a  large 
lagv^  rose 
and  oth- 
iniilar  es- 

under  and 
necessary 

up  to  the 
articular- 

the  trav- 
heir  posi^ 

:>  cannot 

.  From 
farm  am) 

land  be* 


LET.  i.j 


COLUMDIiVlLLK. 


»i 


i>vccn  the  mouth  of  Kitidcrhook  creek  and  Hudson  river,  the 
opposite  siiores  rising  gently  from  the  water,  and  re  tiring 
far  into  the  distant  landscape,  in  the  township  of  Co.vuckie. 
Turning  the  view  a  little  more  to  the  soutli,  rises  the  highest 
peaks  of  Catskill  'uounlains,  in  the  township  of  AVindham, 

The  south  side  of  the  little  bay,  made  hy   Kinderhook 
ereek,  is  steep  and  in  many  places  precipitous,  elodied  with 
timber  and  underwood,  its  scenery  is  romantic  and  solitaKry; 
I  had  the  good  fortune  to  be  kindly  and  hospitably  treai<>d, 
by  Mr.  Marks  Barker  and  his  family,  who  reside  near  tliis 
seductive  spot.    In  company  with  those  innocent  and  friendly 
people,   and  the  sweet  companion   of  my   life  and  of  this 
Journey,  I  traversed  those  wilds.     AVithin  a  few  paces  of  the 
cultivated  farm,  or  **  busy  mill,"  wc  might  have  imagined 
ourselves  transported  to  the  abodes  of  primeval  silence  ; 
wc  could  have  conceived  ourselves  earried  back  to  the  primi- 
tive ages,  when  cultivation   had  neither  disfigured  or  adorn- 
ed the  face  of  the  earth.     Many  of  the  dells,  darK  and  deep, 
overshadowed  with  oaks,   pine,  ccdur  and  maple,  SL>enied  to 
have  never  before  been  visited  by  human  beings  ;  the  turn 
of  a  step  dispelled  this  illusion,  by  disclosing  the  gay  aspect 
of  the  garden,  orchard,  field  and  meadow.     1  had  before 
ranged  over  many  of  the  most  uncultivated  and   unvisiled 
parts  of  this  continent.     I  had  often  seen  the  rapid  change, 
from  the  savage  waste  to  the  highly  decorated  abode  of  civ- 
ilized  man,  but  I  do  not  remember  to  have  been,  ever  be- 
fore, so   strongly  impressed  with  the  contrast.     The  scenes 
were  before  me  in  all  their  majesty.     The  whole  contour, 
shading,  and  parts  of  one  of  the  most  fmely  blended  pictures 
in  nature,  was  open  to  view.     It  was  a  day  I  can  only  forget 
when  I  cease  to  exist.     It  was  enjoyed  amid  objects  that 
now  retain  in  my  mind  all  their  force  of  recollected  interest. 
And  it  is  a  spot  that  the  traveller  may  again,  and  again  re- 
visit, and  never  cease  to  admire. 

August  SOth,   with  great  reluctance  I  left  Columbiaville  ; 
iho  name  given  to  the  little  vstablishment  on  Kinderhook, 


«!» 


CATHKILt. 


[j.ET.  I. 


and  rcdirnod  (hi'ougli  Hiidson  and  A  (lions,  to  CntHkill. 
liike  ColuiiibiavilUs  Catskill  Hiands  upon  llie  \n\y  or  iiiuiidi 
of  a  hii'i^a  I'lTck,  surrounded,  ovi'rhliudoucd  i>,td  almost  eon- 
i'calrd  I)}'  hills.  '^I'lie  lallrr  (own  is  upparenilj^  llourisltinf; 
^nd  foniniei'cial,  lia>ing  a  rich  and  well  euUivaled  eounlry 
^lon;;  Catskill,  to  support  its  prosperity*.  ]t  was  >Yith  pain  I 
'\yas  obli;;ed«  IVoiii  tlu'  nature  oi'  my  private  coneerns,  to 
forego  the  pleasure  oC  vi^iling  the  vicinity  of  Catskill  town. 
From  the  alpine  nature  ol*  part  of  this  ref^ion,  from  tliQ 
heaut.v  and  variety  of  aspect  it  ]iresented  to  my  eye,  when 
seen  from  the  Uudson  hills,  and  Irom  all  the  descriptions  of 
its  features,  that  i  have  seen,  1  am  confident!  lost  much,  in 
iiot  being  able  to  range  over  its  plains  and  moimtains.  Thero 
is  nodoiil",  but  that  this  is  one  of  the  ^lost  interesting 
tiacts  in  the  United  States,  and  perhaps  the  one  where  the; 
strongest  contracts  can  be  found  in  the  siiortest  space.  All 
the  variety  of  soil,  and  formation  from  primitive  granite  to 
the  most  recent  lUluvion,  can  be  examined  here  in  less  thai^ 
one  day. 

A  good  statiiitieal  and  geological  description  of  Grcrna 
county,  would  present  many  of  the  noblest  features  of  the 
United  States  to  view.  The  mouth  of  Catskill  creek  lies 
level  witli  the  Atlantic  tides,  and  (he  most  elevated  of  the 
Catsbergs  in  AVindham,  rises  to  about  3500  feet.  Between 
these  extremes,  how  immense  the  variety  of  vegetable  pro- 
duction ;  perhaps  the  mineral  kingdom  would  not  be  less, 
productive,  if  as  accessible  to  humun  research. 

In  (his  rrgion,  (he  traveller  now  iinds  some  scenes  of  sub> 
linte  interest.  "  The  t'ound-top,  is  found  to  be  elevated 
*' .3(>i>5  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river;  the  high-peak, 
4<  o'tbT.  These  summits  are  in  Windhum,  Greene  county, 
**  about  20  miles  we^st  of  Hudson,  and  in  full  view  from  that 
«  city,  A  turnpike  road  which  crosses  this  range  of  moun-r 
«!<  tains,  near  these  summits,  winds  up  until  it  reaches  (h^ 
"  astonishing  altitude  of  22.7 i  fvvt  ;  and  from  lliis  spot  th^. 


.^ 


m 


[let.  I. 

CntHkill. 
or  luuulh 
must  eun- 
loiirisliing 
d  I'ounlry 
ilh  pain  I 
ii'(M*ns,  to 
kill  lo>vii. 
from  IliQ 
cje,  when 
I'iptions  of 
t  nuK'h)  in 
IS.  Tlici'C 
r.lercsiing 
ivhere  (he, 
»ace.  All 
granite  ta 
\  less  thai^ 

of  Grcrna 
I'cs  of  the 
ercek  lies 
ted  of  the 
Between 
table  pro- 
ot  be  less 

ncs  of  siib- 
B  clevateil 
iigh-peaky 
nc  county, 
I'rom  that 
;  of  niouHr 
aches  th^ 
is  spot  th^. 


LET.  I.] 


KlTKRSKlliL; 


l» 


**  view  in  incxprcsHibly  grand/'^  Tiiiii  is  the  higiient  road 
in  the  United  States,  exceeding  by  far  in  tlovation  any  of 
the  passes  of  the  Allegany  chain,  south  of  this  place. 

In  this  alpine  region,  exists  also,  one  of  the  most  intercbt- 
ing  cataracts  in  North  America  ;  not  from  the  mass  of  wa- 
ter, but  from  the  perpendicular  descent  of  the  stream,  and 
peculiar  structure  of  the  adjacent  country.  It  is  a  curiosi- 
ty but  little  known  beyond  the  neighborhood  where  it  exists« 
though  within  a  very  short  distance  of  the  mountain  road  I 
have  already  noticed,  **  The  high  fall  of  the  Katerskill  is 
**  about  half  a  milo  from  this  road,  near  the  Bummit  of  the 
«  mountain  ^nd  twelve  niiles  from  Catskill.  The  stream 
**  arises  from  two  small  ponds,  one  quarter  of  a  mile  4tpart> 
"  and  runs  gently  two  miles,  where  it  breaks  over  a  rocky 
« precipice  of  .'MO  feet,  pcrpendiuular  height."!  The 
mountains  arc  inhabited  to  their  summits,  enabling  travel- 
lers who  visit  thcuij  tp  find  accoiniuodsition  in  t'">ir  most  ele- 
vated valleys. 

My  time  spent  in  the  vicinity  of  C'atskill,  was  too  short 
to  gratify  my  own  curiosity,  or  to  collect  extensive  informa- 
tion on  local  subjects.  The  general  outline  was  all  I  could 
cxaminef  and  even  that  iniperfeetiy.  I  saw  enough  to  ex- 
cite a  regret,  I  can  only  eradicate  by  returning  under  cir- 
pumstanccs,  which  will  enable  me  to  recnain  long  enough  tu 
ascend  the  highest  mountain,  and  range  the  lowest  valley  ii^ 
jlhis  diversified  tract. 

September  4th,  I  set  out  from  Hudson  for  Albany.  A- 
bove  the  village  of  Columbiaville,  the  road  follows  the  val- 
ley of  the  Kinderhook  creek.  The  country  in  many  places 
level ;  so  much  so,  as  to  remind  me  often  of  cvi-n  I<ouisiana. 
This  recollection  was,  however,  only  momentary ;  liigh 
rocky  hills  appearing  to  the  eastward  at  short  intervals, 
^hc  flourishing  village  of  Kinderhook,  stands  upon  the  allu- 

*  Spaflbrd's  Gazetteer,  page  9. 
i  Spaflbrd's  Gazetteer,  poge  330. 


3* 


KINOERHOOK. 


[let.  I. 


LBI 


t»; 


vial  banks  of  (ho  creek  of  the  same  name,  twelve  milei^ 
above  Hudson.      Above  Kimlcrbook  village,  commences  a 
body   of  level  land,   covered  in  its  native  state  >vith  pine 
timber.    This  tract  affords  a  very  remarkable  instance  of  the 
revolutions,  to  which  the  price  of  landed  property  is  subject. 
I  was  informed  on  the  spot,  that  about  thirty  years  a^,  this 
pine  land  was  considered  of  so  little  vaioe,  as  to  render  its 
possession  onerous  to   the   proprietor.     Now,  some  of  the 
roost  valuable  farms  in  the  two  counties  of  Columbia  and 
Rensselaer,  arc  formed  upon  its  surface.     To  my  eye,  who 
had  travelled  over  so  many  millions  of  acres  of  pine  land, 
in  the  states  of  Louisiana,  Mississippi,  and  tho  Alabama 
territory,  tho  very  existence  of  pine  timber  in  any  great  bo- 
dies, produced  ideas  of  sterility.     Jt  is  to  gypsum  that  the 
region  1  am  now  t^peakiog  of,  owes  most  of  its  reputation 
as  productive  soil.     Improved  modes  of  agriculture,   and 
the  use  of  manure,  h^ve  their  share  very  extensively  in  pro- 
ducing so  beneficial  a  change.    It  delighted  me  the   more, 
to  see  flourishing  farms  amid  forests  of  pine,  as  it  convin- 
ced my  mind,  that  the  pine  regions  I  once  considered  con- 
demned  to  irremediable  barrenness,   may  be  made  highly 
fruitful.     If  this  conclusion  :<s  correct,  and  I  now  see  its 
practical  demonstration,  the  possible  existence  oC  many  mil- 
lions of  human  beings  is  made  manifest,  that  could  never  exist 
if  pine  lands  were  unimprovable.     Considerably  more  than 
one  half  of  all  that  part  of  the  United  States,  south  of  latv 
35,  east  of  the  Mississippi  river,  and  bounded  south  by  the 
Gulph  of  Mexico  and  Florida,  is  covered  with  pine.     All 
Florida  may  be  considered  a  pine  country. 

Approaching  Albany,  the  road  fi-om  Hudson  passes  over 
a  very  hilly  and  sandy  tract.  The  plains  terminate  with  the 
waters  o»  Kinderhook  ;  but  pine  every  where  now  presents 
itself  as  the  prevailing  tree,  and  though  I  had  seen  the  prac- 
tical possibility  of  cultivating  usefully,  land  upon  which  this 
i:tiG  abounds,  to  even  the  exclusion  of  all  others,  yet  so  con- 
firmed were  my  habits  of  thinking  on  the  subject,    that  it 


sincl 

II 

the 
inih 


.'ig 


mg 


[let.  I. 

velve  miles 
'mincnoes  a 
)  wilh  pine 
tance  of  the 
y  is  subject, 
rsa^y  this 
>  render  its 
onie  of  the 
»lutnbia  andl 
ly  eye>  who 
f  pine  lantif 
0  Alabama 
ly  great  bo- 
urn (hat  the 
}  reputation 
uhurc,  and 
vely  in  pro- 
the   more, 
s  it  convin- 
idered  con- 
ade  highly 
l»ow  see  its 
many  mil- 
never  exist 
more  than 
•uth  of  lat. 
mth  by  the 
pine.    All 


IBT.  I.] 


ALBANY. 


»» 


'ft 


■.X 


gave  to  the  vicinity  uf  Albany  an  air  of  barrenness  I  have 
since  been  convinced  it  does  not  deseryc. 

The  approach  to  Albany  upon    this  road,  affords  one  of 
the  finest  landscapes  on  the  Hudson.    About  one  and  a  half 
miles  from  the  city,  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  opens,  present- 
ing Albany,   Greenbush,  the  wide  s>Yceping  bottoms  of  the 
river,  and  the  adjacent  farms  ;    though  thirty  miles  distant 
the  peaks  of  Windham,  and  up  the   Hudson,  the  elevated 
country  beyond  Troy  and  Lansingburgh.    The  view  of  Al- 
bany itself,  is  from  this  hUl  extremely  advantangeous ;  from 
the   rapid  acclivity  upon  which  that  city  is  built,  scarce  a 
Louse  is  unseen.    There  is  no  point  in  the  respective  vicini- 
ty of  either  ^^Uimorc,  Philadelphia,  Ncw-Tork,  or  Boston^ 
where   those   cities  can  be  so  completely  engrasped  at  one 
glance  pf  the  eyp  j  the  view  of  Pittsburg  from  the  Mononga- 
)iela  coal  hill,  is  the  only  position  that  I  have  seen,  whieU 
equals  that  near  Albany.     The  latter  is,  however,  superjov 
^  commanding  a  much  wider  field  of  vision. 

Yo^^sJ^ 


)asses  over 
e  with  the 
tv  presents 
the  prac- 
which  this 
'ct  so  con- 
t^    that  it 


;^6 


T«OY. 


[let.  II, 


LETTER  11. 


h    / 


Troy,  May  5th,  181&. 
Beau  Sir, 

The  weather  lias  been  uniformly  and  excessively  in* 
element  since  my  departure  from  New-Yor|i,  and  in  a  par- 
ticular manner  since  my  arrival  in  Albany.  The  roads  in 
this  neighborhqqd  are  scareely  passable.  "*/Vith  some  dan- 
ger and  dilRcuhy  I  yesterday  came  to  this  town,  "We  have 
tliis  morning  an  interval  of  clear  sun-shine,  which  J9  cheer- 
ful, and  has  exposed  from  the  front  street  the  snow  capped 
summits  of  the  Catsbcrgs.  The  absence  indeed  of  ice  and 
snow,  is  the  only  circumstance  that  even  here  marked  the 
approach  of  spring ;  every  object  has  otherwise,  the  cold 
and  solitary  aspect  of  winter.  The  Hudson  is  excessively 
swelled  by  the  recent  rains,  and  by  the  melting  ice  and 
snow  towards  its  source. 

The  banks  near  this  tow  n,  at  Albany,  and  for  a  few  miles 
below  that  city,  indicate  the  diminished  influence  of  the 
tide,  and  the  cflTeets  produced  by  mountain  streams,  fixtcn- 
dcd  alluvial  bottoms,  and  ^  continued  current  to  (he  south- 
ward, though  still  checked  by  the  swell  below,  are  changes 
that  obtrude  themselves  to  the  immediate  notice  «f  th^ 
traveller. 

Tills  town  is  the  first  upon  the  Hudson,  th^t  can  l)e  con- 
sidered as  built  upon  the  bottoms  of  (hat  river,  liie  site 
is  not  elevated  more  than  eigiit  or  ten  fcot  above  the  level 
of  high  water  mark  on  the  river  bank,  sloping  gradually  to 
the  water  edge.  Some  of  the  lower  par(s  are  now  inunda- 
ted. The  base  of  the  bottom  on  which  the  town  is  placed* 
is  rolled  pebble  with  an  alluvial  covering  ;  it  is  about  800 
yards  wide,  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  river  bank. 
The  hills  rise  with  a  very  steep  acclivity,  but  without  preci- 
pices. 


[let.  II. 


lET.    II.] 


IROY. 


37 


hf  1818. 

ssively  iiir 
I  in  a  par- 
le  roads  in 
sonic  dan- 
We  have 
li  19  cheer- 
ow  capped 
of  ice  and 
narked  Ihc 
?,  the  coUl 
excessively 
ng  U'C  and 

I  few  miles 
ncc  of  the 
Exten- 
(he  soulh- 
re  changes 
ce  i)X   th(> 

an  1)6  con- 
1  he  site 
e  the  level 
aduully  to 
inunda- 
is  phieed* 
about  800 
ver  baiik. 
out  preci- 


vv 


I  nicasui»cd  a  base  235  feet,  in  Col.  Albert  Pawlin's  gar- 
den, upon  a  very  level  plain  from  the  extremity  of  which  I 
took  angles  of  elevation,  to  standing  objects  upon  the  hill 
in  the  rear  of  the  city  ;  the  calculations  founded  upon  the 
base  and  angles  gave  251  feet  as  the  height  of  the  hill,  at 
the  distance  of  3951  feet  from  the  south  extremity  of  the 
base.  The  garden,  in  which  this  operation  was  performed, 
is  situated  at  the  lower  end  of  the  city,  about  100  feet 
from  the  margin  dell,  and  not  more  than  two  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  Hudson  river^  at  the  time  the  admeas- 
urement was  made. 

Troy  is  formed  by  one  main  street  inclining  with  the  in- 
flections of  the  river,  and  crossed  by  others  running  from 
the  river,  to  the  base  of  the  adjacent  hills.  Standing  at  or 
near  the  head  of  tide  water,  lying  so  nearly  level  with  the 
Hudson,  arid  having  a  well  cultivated  country  above  and  in 
its  rear,  Troy  is  well  situated  foi*  a  commercial  town.  In 
point  of  wealth,  business,  population  and  extent,  it  is  the 
third  town  in  the  state  of  New-York.  Most  of  the  buildings 
are  of  brick,  and  have  an  elegant  and  spacious  appearance ) 
the  inhabitants  cannot  fall  short  of  seven  thousand. 

We  have  often,  in  conversation,  spoke  of  the  Hudson  as  a 
long  narrow  bay,  rather  than  a  river.  This  body  of  water 
has  indeed  but  one  characteristic,  that  could  ever  give  it  th6 
appellation  of  a  river  ^  that  is  its  great  length,  when  com- 
pared with  its  ordinary  width.  In  every  other  respect,  it 
exhibits  the  common  features  of  a  hay.  I  do  not  remember 
to  have  ever  read  in  any  author,  an  attempt  to  define  th6 
real  diflerence  between  a  river  and  a  bay  ;  you  will  recol- 
lect that  in  out*  little  hydrographical  definitions,  we  consid- 
ered that  body  of  water  a  river,  whose  opposing  banks,  did 
actually  or  very  nearly  form  corresponding  curves  ;  and  wc" 
viewed  that  body  of  water  a  bay,  into  which,  if  connected 
with  a  sea  having  tides,  those  tides  flowed,  and  whose  oppo- 
site banks  did  not  obey  opposing  inflections.  If  these  prin- 
ciples of  analysis  arc  correct,  the  Hudson  is  a  bay  to  tire 


li 


I 


^H 


TROY. 


[let.  If. 


junction  of  Us  north  branch  with  the  Mohawk.  It  is  to  he 
regretted^  that  the  continuity  ol'  the  Hudson  above  Water- 
fordf  had  not  received  a  distinctive  name  from  the  bay  or 
river  below.  In  reality  the  Mohawk  and  the  upper  Hudson* 
after  rolling  over  considerable  falls,  both  enter  the  head  of  a 
bay.  The  features  of  those  two  latter  rivers^  except  in 
magnitude,  differ  but  little  from  the  other  streams,  which 
have  their  sources  in  the  higher  extremities  of  the  Hudson 
Talley,  and  wiiich  flowing  over  a  comparative  table  land, 
approach  near,  and  are  then  precipitated  over  elevated  ledg- 
es of  rock,  before  finding  the  level  of  the  recumbent  bay. 

Examining  the  environs  of  Troy,  Lansingburg>  and  Wa- 
tcrford,  I  found  Pccsten's-Kill,  which  enters  the  Hudson  at 
the  lower  extremity  of  the  former  town,  rolling  over  reite- 
rated cataracts,  similar  to  all  the  streams  I  had  seen  front 
the  Highlands  upwards.  The  Mohawk  dashing  over  the 
Cahoos  fulls,  and  the  Hudson  over  its  numerous  rapids,  all 
seem  influenced  in  their  motion  by  one  common  cause. 

The  view  from  the  hills  near  Troy  is  extensive,  but  the 
quantity  of  pine  and  cedar,  give  here,  as  near  Albany,  a 
stei'ile  aspect  to  the  neighboring  country.  I  have  before  ob'- 
served,  that  associating  ideas  of  sterility  with  these  ever- 
greens, is  in  part  a  mistaken  application  of  data,  taken  front 
a  distant  and  in  many  respects  a  very  diflerent  country. 
Well  informed  men  have  observed  to  me,  when  speaking  of 
those  lands  that  appeared  so  barren,  that,  good  husbandry 
never  failed  to  render  them  very  productive.  Your  mtelli- 
gent  friend  B*=****l,  of  Albany,  who  has  made  the  experi- 
ment upon  part  of  the  worst  of  those  lands,  conflrms  in 
strong  language  their  liability  to  amelioration.  I  am  fond 
of  dwelling  upon,  and  often  recurring  to  such  subjects.  It 
is  pleasing  to  be  convinced  that  a  dense  and  happy  popula- 
tion, may  be  subsisted  upon  places  where  once  incurable 
sterility  seemed  to  reign.     Adieu. 


LET.  m.] 


SCHENECTADY. 


39 


LETTER  lit. 


Schenectady  J  J\Ititj  Sth,  181^> 
Dear  SfR> 

I  WOULD  have  been  pleased  to  have  exlendod  my  ram- 
bles more  into  the  adjacent  country,  near  Albany  an4  Tpoy» 
but  the  incessant  rain  prevented  any  comforlable  or  benefi- 
cial excursion.  The  6th  of  May  the  rain  fell  in  torrents, 
in  the  midst  of  which  I  returned  from  Troy  to  Albany, 
where  I  remained  until  the  morning  of  the  8th j  when  I  set 
out  in  the  stage  for  the  westward.  The  rain  had  ceP'^cd  in 
the  night,  but  the  roads  for  about  two  miles  from  the  city« 
Were  so  intolerable  as  to  oblige  (he  passengers  to  leave  the 
stage,  in  order  to  enable  the  horses  to  drag  the  vehicle 
through  the  deep  mud.  After  attaining  the  summit  level 
at  the  western  part  of  Albany,  tLe  country  is  level,  the 
surface  a  clay  mixed  with  sand  ;  and  whether  the  wretched 
roud  that  exists  there,  is  the  necessary  consequence  of  the 
nature  of  the  surface  or  soil,  or  the  efft'ct  of  a  defective  po- 
lice, those  most  concerned  ought  to  explain.  As  it  was,  t 
was  glad  to  arrive  safe  over  this  marsh,  and  attain  the  sandy 
plains  farther  to  the  westward. 

The  distance  from  Albany  to  Sehencitady  is  sixteen  com- 
puted miles;  the  intermediate  country  is  broken,  rolling 
sandy,  and  in  its  natural  state  extremely  barren.  The  prin* 
cipal  timber  white  pine  and  red  cedar,  admixed  near  the 
streams  with  some  white  oak«  black  oak,  and  white  birch, 
witli  a  few  stems  of  red  flowering  maple.  The  water  courses 
which  cross  the  road  flow  north-east  towards  thf*  Mohawk, 
and  have  some  fine  extensive  farms  upon  their  alluvial  bot* 
toms.  Before  reaching  Schenectady  a  high  hill  gives  the 
traveller  a  full  view  of  the  adjacent  country.  At  the  time 
of  the  year  in  which  I  travelled  a  few  blossoms  upon  the 
maples  and  birch  ti'ces,  were  the  only  harbingers  of  ap- 


4,0 


SCtiENECTADT. 


[let.  III. 


;4 


proaciliiug  spring.  Tlic  slopes  of  tlie  MohaSvk  were  clothed 
w'liU  pine  and  cedar  ;  the  leafless  branches  of  the  other  trees 
were  hid  amid  the  deep  green  boughs  of  those  hardy  son  ._' 
tlie  forest.  Descending  into  the  vale  in  wliich  stands  the 
comparatively  iincient  village  of  Schenectady,  another  and 
more  pleasing  scene  opens.  The  Very  flourisiiing  village 
standing  upon  the  fertile  alluvial  flats  of  the  Moha^vk  pre- 
sents a  rich  picture  of  cultivation,  contrasting  strongly  with 
(he  sandy  hills  towards  Albany,  or  the  equally  arid  eminen- 
ces beyond  the  3f  ohawk  to  the  north  of  Schenectady. 

This  town,  or  city,  is  situated  upon  the  flats  at  the  bottom 
of  the  hills,  on  the  south  or  right  side  of  the  Mdhawk  river  ; 
it  is  more  regularly  laid  out  thart  most  of  the  ancient  towrid 
cstabliSihed  by  the  early  settlers  of  New- York,  now  contains 
more  than  500  houses,  and  perhaps  3000  inhabitants.  Many 
of  the  buildings  are  larger  exjicnsive  and  elegant.  This  town 
is  well  placed  to  receive  the  benefits  of  an  extensive  com- 
merce with  the  i'ich  and  prosperous  settlement!^  which  bor- 
der the  Mohawk  to  its  source.  The  inhabitants  seem  to 
have  availed  themselves  of  their  advantages,  the  trade  of  the 
[dace  appears  productive. 

Schenectady  recals  many  facts  of  historical  interest.  li 
formed  for  a  long  period  of  tints,  the  frontier  (own  towards 
the  Indian  country.  In  February,  1690,  a  marauding  party 
of  French  and  Indians  surprised  the  inhabitants  before  day 
light  in  the  mor  ing.  Aroused  from  their  peaceful  beds  by 
the  explosion  of  the  fire  arms,  and  the  piercing  yells  df  (heir 
savage  enemies,  an  indiscriminate  slaughter  ensued.  The 
mother  and  the  babe,  the  husband  and  wife,  the  brother  and 
sister  shared  the  same  fate.  A  few  escaped,  who  almost 
naked,  through  frost  and  snow  carried  the  distressful  tidings 
to  Albany.  This  was  one  of  the  many,  and  one  of  the  most 
tragical  scenes  of  savage  border  warfare,  that  has  occurred 
with  son»e  intervals,  around  our  settlements  for  upwards  of 
two  centuries,  and  which  is  fiir  from  having  terminated. 
The  massacre  at  Fort  Minis,  ami  many  others  within  five 


LET.   III.] 


SCHENECTADY. 


41 


years  past*  arc  only  recent  instances  of  the  cnntinuntion  of 
this  most  drcadi'ui  ot*  all  species  o['  war.  The  circle  is 
wideningy  the  very  nation  hasecasid  to  exist,  wliich  reduced 
Schenectady  to  ashes  and  buried  in  its  ru..  i  the  remains  of 
its  murdered  citizens,  but  other  liordcs  of  savages  have  con- 
tinually presented  their  ferocious  front,  and  our  frontiers 
have  ever  been  stained  with  the  blood  of  helpless  innocence. 
Those  tribes  have  apparently  receded,  but  in  fact  they  have 
been  rather  extinguished.  . 

The  Mohawks,^  who  once  gave  law  to  an  immense  extent, 
<he  centre  of  which  was  the  present  New- York,  have  also  dis- 
appeared from  the  world,  and  have  only  now  remaining  to  at- 
test their  former  existence,  the  name  of  the  beautiful  stream 
upon  which  is  situated  the  town  of  Schenectady.  Its  current 
once  stained  with  human  gore,  now  flows  gentle,  pure  and 
steady,  through  some  of  the  iinest  settlements  in  all  America. 

Schenectady  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  the 
same  n:^me,  and  as  such,  contains  the  usual  buildings  neces- 
sary  for  courts  of  justice    and   prisons.     It  is  also  more 
honourably  remarkable,  as  having  within  its  limits  Union 
College,  a  respectable  literary  institution,  incorporated  in 
179db,  and  took  its  name  from  the  union  of  several  religious 
societies  in  its  formation*!     It  is  now  in  a  dourishing  situa- 
tion, having  an  ample  library,  philosophic  al  and  ehymical  ap- 
paratus, and  upwards  of  130  students.    The  annual  expense 
of  board  and  education  about  S120  per  a*^   urn.     Doubts 
have  been  suggested  whether  a  good  moral  policy  would 
justify  the  reduction  of  collegiate  education  so  low.    Many 
reasons  more  specious  than  solid,   have  been  adduced,  to 
shew,  «'  that  little  learning  is  a  dangerous  thing"  and  that 
man,  «  must  drink  deep,  or  taste  jwt  of  the  Fierian  spring.'^ 
I  can  never  forget  your  reply,  wh(;n  I  once  observed,  that 
the  time  never  could  arrive  when  all  mankind  could  be  learn- 
ed.   Your  expression  was,  that  comparatively,  almost  any 

*  The  allies,  not  tlie  enemies  of  the  people  of  Scljcncctady. 
t  Spafibrds  Gazetteer,  page  44. 

E 


r., 


42 


VALm\'    iih'   TUIi    MOUAMK.   KIV£R.         LET.    HI. 


member  of  a  civilized  country  was  learned,  when  compared 
>vi(li  savafj^es ;  and  the  common  mode  of  expression  would 
{suppose,  IliiU,  all  men  ought  to  remain  sava^^e,  or  attain  the 
empyrean  Iieijj^hls  of  liJerary  excellence.  Some  light  head- 
ed dunces  have  heeome  pedants  hy  obtaining  a  few  words  in 
the  learned  languaj^es ;  as  our  friend  A***s,  who  spouts 
languages  living  and  'lead,  without  more  utility  than  a  par- 
rot would  gain  by  using  the  same  sounds.  It  cannot  now, 
however,  be  doubted,  but  that  the  human  character  is  enno- 
bled, the  human  heart  softened,  and  public  morals  purified,  by 
general  instruction.  Tho;igh  slight  abuses  may  arise  in  some 
instances  from  tlic  weakness  or  depravity  of  individuals, 
those  abuses  deteriorate  no  more  from  the  value  of  educa- 
tion, than  the  ordinary  defects  of  all  human  institutions  do, 
from  any  amelioration  whatever  in  the  condition  of  our  spe- 
cies. 

For  my  own  part,  I  viewed  the  buildings  composing  the 
three  cullegrs  which  bear  the  name  of  Union  in  Schenectady, 
with  a  similar  reverence,  with  which  I  had  formerly  felt 
when  passing  Cambridge,  Yale,  Columbia,  Princeton,  and 
Dickinson.  Those,  and  other  such  edifices,  are  the  true 
temples  of  reason. 

In  the  vale  of  the  Mohawk,  I  considered  myself  as  in  a 
new  region.  I  had  now  passed  the  utmost  limit  of  the  At- 
lantic tides.  Clinton's  Inaugural  Discourse,  and  Dr.  Mitch- 
ill's  notes  to  Kirk  and  Mercein's  edition  of  Cuvier's 
Theory  of  the  Earth,  had  cnilamed  my  desire  to  visit  the 
interior  of  this  continent.  I  also  wished  to  contrast  with 
each  other,  tlie  two  extremities  of  the  United  States.  My 
progress  from  the  city  of  New-Yoik  to  Albany,  and  even  to 
Schenectady,  as  merely  introducto^  to  my  real  tour. 
Hitherto  I  had  travelled  over  a  region  remarkable  in  itself, 
but  with  features  of  considerable  resemblance  to  the  scenes 
to  which  you  arc  most  familiar,  but  from  hence  objects  are 
new.  and  of  a  nature  very  dissimilar  to  those  over  which  we 
have  been  in  llie  habit  of  rambling. 

You  will  hour  of  me  again  from  T.ticn.     Adieu. 


XET,    IV.] 


SCIIRNECTADr. 


M 


LETTER  IV. 


IJtictti  »J\laii  iUh,  1318. 
Deiu  Sir, 

Br  an  nnoxpocted  goad  forfiinc  (lie  weather  continiird 
without  rain  during  my  journey  from  Si'liencctady  to  thiii 
town.  Tlio  roads  were  in  many  plaecs  extremely  ha*),  whieli 
eircumstanpc  liad  one  good  effect,  it  enahU'd  me  to  keep  in 
advance  of  the  stage,  and  hy  travelling  on  foot,  and  in  sumo 
measure  at  my  leisure,  procured  me  a  much  bet  view  of 
the  country  than  I  could  have  gained  by  continuing  in  the 
vehicle.  1  kept  my  pocket  Ixiok  and  pencil  in  niy  hand,  and 
made  my  notes  as  the  o!)jects  presented  themselves.  Kough 
as  these  notes  are,  I  have  sent  yoq  a  «opy,  lean  athl  nothing 
material  by  putting  them  in  any  other  form.  You  expresseii 
a  kiad  desire  to  licar  from  me,  ^nd  to  Jiave  as  near  as  pos- 
sible a  picture  of  my  route,  and  a  description  of  the  incidents 
of  my  tour,  as  these  incidents  transpired.  The  distances  are 
givcii  from  Albany,  as  it  was  on  leaving  that  city,  that  I 
eommenced  to  note  regularly  the  stages  and  diversities  of 
the  country. 

MIl.ES. 

46  From  Jllhawj  to  Schenectady. 

As  soon  as  I  had  finished  breakfast  ia  the  latter 
<own,  I  seized  my  cane,  put  your  letter  in  the 
mail,  and  preceded  the  stage  over  the  Mohawk. 
The  road  here  passes  this  stream  by  a  line  wooden 
bridge,  said  to  be  tl*e  masterpiece  of  the  celebra- 
ted bridge  builder,  Theodore  Burr  ;  it  is  997  feet  i:i 
length.  The  structure  was  entirely  new  to  me. 
and  could  not  be  satisfactorily  given  without  a 
diagram.  The  most  facile  mode  of  conveying  to 
you,  an  idea  of  the  principle  upon  which  this 
Ju'idge  is  formed,  is  by  an  ya  placed  lengthwise^ 


!'-'', 

'd'-' 


44 


.VOllAWK   l;iV£K. 


[let.  IV. 


MIIES. 

— 16  I'he  (leciiinbont  curves  resting  upon  alnUments, 
and  (lie  incumbent  ores  supporting  the  rout';  the 
vliolc  fabric  bus  (lie  appearance  of  great  strength. 
The  abutments  are  eamposed  of  stone,  the  super- 
structure »oo(l ,;  the  rurvcd  arches  arc  framed  out 
of  thick  plani\. 

The  road  to  Ballston  leaves  that  to  Utiea,  at  the 
north  extremity  of  the  bridge.  The  latter  road 
proceeds  over  the  Mohavk  Hats,  a  rich  and  level 
alluvial  bottom,  ivhich  has  much  the  appearance  ot' 
having  once  been  the  bottom  of  a  lake.  These 
plains  arc  now  extremely  productive,  (hough  envi- 
roned on  the  north  and  south  sides  by  sterile  pine 
hills. 

5 — 21     Hurcleif^s  tavern.  , 

8 — 29     GroaVs  tavern. 

Between  the  two  last  stages,  the  country  has  be- 
come extremely  variegated  and  broken.  The  north 
bank  along  which  I  travelled,  was  hilly,  and  often 
so  precipitous,  as  to  leave  scarce  room  for  the  road 
to  pass ;  the  south  side  slopes  gradually  from  the 
river,  with  numerous  farms  rising  above  each 
other  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  soil  of  the 
north  side  appears  sandy  and  sterile,  that  of  the 
south  must  be  of  a  greatly  superior  quality.  The 
prevalent  timber  on  the  hills  pine,  with  different 
kinds  of  oak  and  white  birch ;  that  on  the  river 
*  bottoms  and  contiguous  banks,  white  walnut, 
shell  bark  hickory,  some  liriodendron  tulipifera 
and  chesnut. 

The  river  is  about  2^0  yards  wide,  and  filled 
y\\{\\  islands,  which  follow  each  other  in  rapid 
succession.  Sand  and  rounded  pebbles  lorm  the 
superstratum,  but  schistose  limestone  appears  pro- 
jecting from  the  banks  in  a  horizontal  position, 
marking  (he  comnicnccmcnt  of  a  secondary  region. 


J.ET.   IV.j 


TBIPKS   JIILI.. 


4B 


MILES. 

1—30     E.  E.  Degraff's: 

1 — 31     G.  Manny- s, 

Jlori/unlal  or  Floetz  liincslonc,  hcconios  more 
frequent.  The  opposing;  bunks  maintain  tlieir  rela- 
tive eharactcrs. 

2 — 33     Village  of  Amsterdam  in  JMontgomerif  comitij. 

This  is  a  romantic  village,  situated  on  the  slope 
of  the  hills,  M'ith  the  Chucktanunda,  a  large  ereek 
foaming  over  ledges  of  limestone  amongst  the 
buildings,  and  rushing  impetuously  down  the  adja- 
cent declivities  towards  the  Mohawk.  The  sud- 
den eifect  of  this  admixtuie  of  houses  and  cataracts 
is  extremely  pleasing  and  picturesque.  Tiie  south 
shore  continues  to  sweep  before  the  eye,  in  far  dis- 
tant stages  of  cultivated  acclivities. 

i — 37  Tripes  llilli  opposite  the  moutli  cf  Scohurie  river, 
or  creek. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  singular  and  difTicuIt 
passes  on  the  Mohawk  river.  The  hill  rises 
abrupt,  is  high,  sandy,  and  extremely  painful  in 
the  ascent.  There  is  no  mode  to  avoid  this  iu- 
convenience,  as  the  bank  of  the  river  is  an  ele- 
vated ledge  of  rock  on  the  north  side.  The  tabic 
land  is  a  sandy  plain,  and  the  descent  above  is  also 
but  little  less  abrupt  than  the  asc(;nt  below.  From 
the  highest  part  of  the  hill,  the  mo^Kh  and  valley 
of  the  Schoharie  is  in  full  view.  The  bottom  ol' 
the  Mohawk  is  here  extensive,  but  extremely  flat 
on  the  south  side ;  the  Schoharie  is  seen  meandering 
over  this  plain  in  its  course  fro  Ji  the  hills  to  the 
Mohawk  river.  The  bottoms  appear  extremely 
fertile,  but  must  be  subject  to  occasional  inundation, 
and  from  their  undeviating  level,  the  crops  must 
suffer  great  injury  when  these  accidents  occur. 

Ma   .« 


rh^ 


id 


TALXrtllR 


ftET.    If 


MILES. 

2—39 

1 — Vi 

8—57 


\~~6i 


6—67 


Connn'*tf  liivrru. 
Village  of  Cughnawaga, 
John8on*s  creek, 
Connelrfs  tavern, 
Valaline  lower  Villnge. 

Bcfwrnn  the  two  hist  sfagPH,  (lio  I'oad  pn«HP5 
generally  iTpoii  (he  rivrr  bottoms,  which  are  narrow 
and  tcrinmatcil  to  the  north  hy  steop  hills  or  per- 
pfnilicTilaf  Irilgos  of  secondary  i'o<?k.  The  9«»uth 
ban';  is  also  hroken«  rocky  and  much  U'ss  cnlliva- 
t«d  than  any  ecpial  distance  I  hate  yQt  seen  on  th« 
Mohawk.  'J'lie  soil  black,  and  no  doubt  fertile  ; 
even  that  of  the  lii}b  assumes  a  more  inriling  ap- 
pearance ns  I  have  ascended.  Tlie  timber  is  now 
Mlrouf^ly  indicative  of  productive  soil ;  sugar  maple 
is  HO  common  as  to  form  the  principal  article  of 
fuel,  this  ti'ce  never  flourishes  abundantly,  except 
upon  the  very  best  lands;  it  is  here  ofteu  seen  of 
gigantic  size  along  the  bottoms,  and  often  upon  the 
highest  and  steepest  banks  visible  from  the  road. 
Other  timlM'r  trees,  though  fewer  in  number,  con- 
tinue as  before  noted. 

The  rock  strata  h  schistose  limestone  and  sand- 
stone, alternately  overlaying  each  other. 
Falalint  upper  village. 

Face  of  the  country  continues  unchanged,  on  cath 
side  of  the  river,  perpendicular  precipices  frequent. 
1  remained  over  ni^ht  in  the  latter  village,  and  al 
the  daw  n  of  day,  on  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  May, 
set  out  on  foot  in  advance  of  (he  stage,  and  walked 
to  Palatine  church.  Slope  of  the  country  has  now 
changed  to  the  north  or  left  side  of  the  stream. 
Sugar  maple  the  prevailing  timber^  and  almost  ex 
elusive  fuel,  * 


JL&'1\    lY.j 


OPPK.NHEIM 


47 


MILES. 

7—7* 


•/  / 


J)[oulh  of  EiMt  Canada  creek,  and  village  of  Op' 
])enlinm. 

The  villsigii  Htands  nonrllio  hank  of  Ihc  Mohawk 
uhove  the  luuiith  of  the  crci'k.  Lower  or  Kiist 
Canada,  is  a  fine  mill  Htnniin  of  ahoiit  fwrnty-livc 
niilcfl  in  Icn^^th,  independent  of  partieiilai*  hends, 
rising  in  Montgomei'v  connt^  upon  the  same  (able 
land  from  whieh  flows  fiie  Saeondngo  brunch  ul* 
llndson  river.  The  two  streams  iDterloek,  and 
tailing  over  a  numbei*  of  preeipieos,  pnrsue  their 
respective  ccurses  with  great  rapidity,  until  lost  in 
in  the  larger  stream,  into  whieli  their  waters  are 
diseliarged.  It  may  be  here  I'epeuted  that  all  (he 
tributary  streams  of  the  Hudson,  and  its  branehcs 
seem  to  be  pceuliarly  adapted  to  Iheeonstruetionof 
water  machinery.  East  Canada  creek  forms  from 
its  mouth,  about  twenty  miles  of  the  boundary  be< 
tween  Montgomery  and  Herkimer  counties. 

Oppcnheim  is  a  s?  .all  village,  with  uolhing  in  its 
construction  or  situation  worthy  particular  notice. 
Van  Walkenbnrgh^s  Inn, 

Since  leaving  Oppenheiin,  I  travelled  over  hlgli 
hills  ;  the  slope  has  now  again  changed  to  the  south 
side  of  the  Mohawk,  which  presents  an  elegant  a«'- 
clivity  rising  to  considerable  elevation,  ehi'quen'd 
"witli  farms  and  copses  of  wood,  intermingling  in 
endless  varietv.  A  summer  excursion  over  this  re- 
gion  must  uiTord  the  most  charming  contrasts  in 
nature.  It  is  now  pleasing  in  the  undress  ofnature, 
with  banks  of  snow  still  resting  upon  many  of  the 
hill  sides. 

The  timber  continues  to  present  similar  varieties 
as  before  noticed,  since  leaving  Palatine,  except 
that  sugar  maple,  now  eneroaches  still  more  upon 
the  other  species  of  trees. 


f. ', 


48 


i.iTTLli    lALLS. 


[let.  IV. 


MILES. 

4—81 


LiUle  Fulls. 

Tliis  cataract  is  caused  by  a  chain  of  granitic 
iiiuuntuins  of  no  great  elevation,  which  crosses  the 
Mohawk  at  this  place.  The  ^luiin  is  a  ramification, 
or  perhaps  a  continuation  cf  the  Catshergs.  Ap- 
proaching tlie  puss,  I  was  sU'uck  with  its  great  re- 
semblance to  the  passage  of  the  Juniata,  through 
the  Warrior  mountain  hciow  Bedford,  in  Pennsj!- 
vaniii,  except  ih.it  the  scenery  of  the  latter  is  on  a 
larger  scale^  and  the  mountains  covered  with  a  less 
vigorous  growth  of  trees,  than  those  which  occasion 
the  Little  Fails  in'tlne  Moliawk.  In  botli,  the  rivers 
*<.t  the  disti'.nce  hehjw,  of  hall' a  mile,  seem  to  issue 
from  the  base  of  the  mountains,  which  seen  oblique- 
ly* coqceals  the  narrow  giens  through  which  the 
waters  work  their  toilsoaic  way."*^ 


*The  description  given  by  gov.  De  Witt  Clinton,  of  the  Little 
Kails,  will  continue  to  supercede  the  use  of  any  other.  It  is  in- 
deed a  line  specimen  of  topog;  pliical  painting,  and  places  the 
attendant  phenomena  before  the  mind's  eye.  I  had  Dr.  Mitchill's 
notes  on  Cuvier,  into  which  this  description  is  copied,  in  my  hands 
-when  passing  this  interesting  cataract,  and  amid  the  wildness 
of  the  scene,  and  in  hearing  of  the  roar  of  the  gushing  waters, 
read  and  felt  the  truth  of  this  excellent  view  of  one  of  the  great 
scenes  that  our  country  presents  to  the  admiring  traveller.  Few 
in  this  country  but  who  have  often  read  the  res})eclive  works  I 
have  mentioned  in  my  text,  and  have  seen  of  course,  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  Little  falls,  to  which  I  have  alluded.  The  reader 
Avill  pardon,  however,  its  insertion  from  the  original  work,  in  a 
note ;  some  may  not  have  read  it,  and  few  who  have,  will  find  a 
second  perusal  tedious. 

"  The  Little  Falls  on  the  Mohawk  river,  in  connexion  with  the 
surrounding  country,  exhibit  a  very  interreting  aspect.  As  you 
approach  the  falls  the  river  becomes  narrow  and  deep,  and  you 
pass  through  unmense  rocks,  principally  >"»i'  granite,  interpersed 
>vith  limestone.  In  various  places  you  observe  profound  exca- 
vations in  the  rocl.s  made  by  ilie  fij^i'.ation  of  pebbles  in  the 
lissures,  and  in  soaie  places  the  river  is  not  more  than  twenty 
yards  wide.  As  you  upproach  the  western  exiremity  of  the  lills, 
vou  find  them  about  hall"  a  mile  distant  from  summit  to  supunit, 


X.ET.   lY. 


LITTLE   fails: 


49 


MILES. 
—81 


The  scenery  near  the  Little  Falls,  is  wild  and 
strikiiij^  As  you  approach  this  place,  the  Talley 
ot'tiic  river  seems  to  close,  the  road  approaches  the 
pass  obliquely,    winding    along  the  foot  of  hills 


and  at  least  three  hundred  feet  high.  The  rocks  are  composed 
of  j^ranite,  and  many  of  them  are  thirty  or  forty  feet  thick,  and 
the  whole  mountain  extends  at  least,  half  a  mile  from  east  to  west- 
Yon  see  them  piled  on  each  other,  like  Ossa  on  Pelion,  and  in 
other  places,  hui^e  fragments  scattered  about, indicating  a  violent 
rupture  of  the  waters  through  this  place,  as  if  they  had  been  for- 
me riy  dam»ncU  up  and  had  formed  a  passage,  and  in  all  tlireclions 
you  behold  great  rocks  exhibiting  rotundities,  points  and  cavi- 
ties, as  if  worn  by  the  violence  of  the  waves,  or  hurled  from 
their  ancient  positions. 

"  The  general  appearance  of  the  Little  Falls  indicates  the  for- 
mer existence  of  a  great  lake  above,  connected  with  the  Oneida 
lake ;  and  as  the  waters  forced  a  passage  here  and  receded,  the 
flats  above  were  formed  and  composed  several  thousand  acres  of 
the  richest  land.     Rome  being  the  highest  point  on  the  lake,  the 
passage  of  the  waters  on  the  east  side  left  ii  bare;  the  Oneida 
lake  gradually  receded  on  the  west  side,  and  formed  the  great 
marsh  or  swamp,  now  surrounding  the  waters  on  Wood  creek. 
The  physiognomy  of  the  country  from  the  commencement  of 
Wood  creek  to  its  termination  in  tlie  Oneida  lake,  ccnf'i  ms  this  hy- 
pothesis.  The  westerly  and  northwesterly  winds  continually  drive 
the  sand  of  the  lake  towards  the  creek,  and  you  can  distinctly 
perceive  the  alluvion  increasing  eastward  by  the  accumulation  of 
sand,  and  the  formation  of  new  ground.  Near  the  lake,  you  ob- 
serve sand  without  trees,   then  to  the  east  a  few  scattering  trees ; 
and  as  you  proceed  in  that  direction,  the  woods  thicken.     The 
whole  country  from  the  commencement  to  the  termination  of 
Wood  creek,  looks  like  made  ground.     In  digging  the  cai'al  in 
Wood  creek,  pine  trees  have  been  found  twelve  feet  deep.     An 
old  boatman  several  years  ago,  said  that  he  had  been  fifty  years 
in  that  employ,  and  that  the  Oneida  lake  had  receded  half  a  mile 
>vithin  his  menu>ry.    William  Colbreath,  one  of  the  fust  settlers 
at  Rome,  in  digging  a  well,  found  a  large  tree  at  the  depth  of 
twelve  feet.     This  great  lake,  breaking  down  in  the  first  place, 
the  barriers  which  opposed  the  progress  of  its  waters  to  the  east, 
and  then  gradually  receding  to  the  west,  is  a  subject  well  deserv- 
ing of  minute  investigation." — Clinton's  Introductory  Discourse^ 

Since  my  return  to  the  city  of  New- York,  I  had  the  pleasure 
of  meeting  there,  with  Mr.  Isaac  Briggs,who  is  mentioijcd  intiiis 


60 


LITTLE    FALLS. 


[let   IVr 


|(   ' 


MI£S. 
—81 


covered  >viili  enormous  sugar  maples  \>  hose  rough 
boughs  hang  over  the  head  of  the  passenger.  An 
elegant  wliUc  tavern  house  stands  near  tlse  en- 
trance into  tlie  narrow  glen  below  the  cataract. 
After  passing  tf»c  house  a  few  yards,  the  road  turns 
suddenly  to  the  j'iglit,  and  scenes  of  grandeur  suc- 
ceed each  other  in  rapid  review.  The  huge  un- 
bhapen  fragments  of  granite  and  o(ber  rocks,  lie 
disrupted  n  an  infinity  of  positions,  interspersed 
and  overgrown  with  sugar  maple,  elm,  hemlock, 
oak,  pine,  and  other  trees.    Toiling  about  half  a 


11 


corrrespondence  as  one  of  tlie  gentlemen  employed  under  the 
authority  of  the  state  of  New- York,  as  an  engineer  on  the  grand 
canal.  IMr.  Briggs  in  the  execution  of  Iiis  official  duty,  has  mea- 
sured and  levelled  the  Mohawk  river  and  its  banks  from  Rome  to 
the  Little  Falls,  and  who  li?irt  the  goodness  to  give  nie  the  follow- 
ing measurements  of  ilio  iiills  adjacent  to  the  Little  Falls. 

Falls-hill,  where  the  road  (on  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk,) 
passes"  it,  is  518  feet  l.igher  than  our  level  above  the  falls;  67i 
feet  higher  than  our   level  two  miles  below  the  fulls  ;  473  feet 
higher  than  Rome  level  ;  and  323  feet  higher  than  the  surface  of 
lake  Erie. 

This  admeasurement  shews,  that  the  present  level  above  the 
Falls  is  only  forty-five  feet  different  from  the  level  of  Rome.  Of 
course,  if  the  tinie  ever  existed  when  the  water  at  the  Falls  was 
more  than  forty-five  feet  above  its  present  level,  then  did  a  lake  ex- 
lend  to  the  present  Oneida,  making  the  whole  one  sheet  of  water. 
The  most  »:icoiitcstible  proofs  remain  upon  the  rocks,  in  and 
near  the  present  fall,  that  the  water  once  (lowed  more  than  fifty 
feet  higher  than  it  docs  now.  What  revolutions !  what  sudden 
and  gradu.il  changes  have  wrought  their  effects  upon  the  crust  of 
our  planet .'  w  hat  we  now  see  oi'  the  surface  of  our  globe  is  almo.s,t 
composed  of  water,  or  of  broken  fragments  torn  by  violence  from 
their  pristine  position,  at  times  beyond  our  records,  and  in  many 
instances,  by  means  that  elude  our  research. 

To  pursue  t!ie  investigation  (;f  these  changes,  is  not  always  an 
idle  application,  as  in  the  instance  before  us,  where  the  examina- 
tion of  <!:e  phcnonicjia  enables  us  to  form  rational  opinions  upon, 
Iiow  far  we  can  eftect  beneficial  improvements  upon  thenow<xis- 
tent  waters  in  this  singular  region.  A  region  where  rivers  appear 
in  many  instances  in  their  youth. 


IBT.  ly.J 


'MTTLE   FAILS. 


31 


MILES. 

—81 


tnile,  you  first  hear  the  diu  and  (hen  approach 
vrithin  sigiit  of  the  foaming  surge,  fu  blin  \^ilh 
irresistilde  violence  over  its  rocky  bed.  FYom  the 
loot  of  the  falls,  the  road  winds  its  tortuous  way  up 
the  steep  ascent,  and  in  alraut  a  quarter  of  a  mile» 
brings  the  traveller  to  a  beautiful,  well  built  vil- 
lage. Here  every  feeling  of  taste  meets  a  rich 
repast ;  so  many,  so  variant,  and  so  striking  are 
the  objects  which  the  hand  of  nature  and  art,  have 
here  engroup<;d  in  one  prospect.  The  rock  in 
thousands  of  forms,  trees  and  shrubs  rising  from 
their  interstices.  'I'he  white  surge  of  the  fulJing 
waters ;  beyond  which  is  seen  the  smooth  surface 
of  the  IVlohawk,  whose  placid  stream  advances 
slow  and  silent  to  the  scene  of  tumult  below.  Still 
farther  to  the  south-west,  opens  the  fine  expansion 
of  the  German  Hats,  chequered  with  all  the  de- 
corations of  field,  orchard,  meadow,  houses  and 
copses  of  wood.  The  clear  blue  heaven  and  fleec;^ 
clouds  form  the  back  ground  of  this  delightful 
landscape.  A  landscape  the  traveller  can  enjoy 
from  the  windows  of  an  excellent  inn,  vhich  stands 
in  the  romantic  village  which  raises  its  ^^ell  built 
houses  between  the  almost  perpendicular  crags  on 
one  side,  and  the  struggling  stream  on  the  other. 
The  marks  are  numerous  and  manifest  of  an  ante- 
rior and  much  greater  elevation  of  the  water  than 
found  there  at  present.  Many  of  the  rocks  are 
perforated  with  round  holes,  made  by  the  rotation 
of  pebbles  in  a  running  stream.  Those  rocks  are 
often  of  immense  size,  and  placed  where  they  have 
lain  for  countless  ages.  These  imprinted  evi- 
dences of  geological  revolution,  evince  a  slow  and 
gradual,  not  a  sudden  or  violent  change.  The  op« 
jiosing  hills  seem  as  if  sawn  asunder  by  th«  per- 


MILES. 
—81 


I  ■■    li 


UEItMAN   FLATS. 


[let.  IV. 


petual  abrasion  of  the  water.  No  fartlicr  altera- 
tion of  consequence  can  take  place  in  future^  as  the 
bed  of  the  river  is  worn  down  to  a  level  with  the 
bottom  of  the  ancient  decumbent  lake. 

Passing  above  the  falls,  the  road  follows  the 
bank  of  the  river,  from  which  the  adjacent  hills 
rise  by  a  very  steep  ascent.  Prominences  pro- 
trude themselves  frequently  to  the  margin  of  the 
water,  and  force  tlie  course  of  the  road  to  rise  to 
considerable  qjevation,  giving  reiterated  op;/',rtu- 
nities  to  enjoy  the  prospect  of  the  truly,  ricli  coun- 
try, known  by  the  name  of  the  German  flats.  This 
region  takes  it  name  from  the  circumstance  of  the 
first  civilized  emigrants  being  Germans.  Upon  no 
part  of  the  United  States  have  the  inhabitants  suf- 
fer'^d  more  from  that  murderous  border  warfare^ 
instigated  by  v/hites,  and  pursued  by  savages,  than 
did  the  early  settlers  on  the  now  smiling  German 
flats.  For  a  long  iieriod  of  time  after  the  settle 
tlcments  made  by  the  French  in  Canada,  and  by 
the  English  and  Dutch  upon  the  Atlantic  coast ;  the 
Mohawk  and  Oswego  rivers,  formed  the  line  of 
eruptive  communication,  and  blood  marked  its  va- 
rious points.*  The.  aged  yet  remember,  and  re- 
count with  a  melancholy  recollection,  many  of 
those  tragical  scenes.  Time  has  clmngcd  the 
drama,  the  rage  of  war  has  subsided,  the  savages 
liavc  perished  or  dwindled  to  a  wretched  remnant. 
Towns,  villages,  churches,  schools,  and  farm 
houses,  now  adorn  this  once  dreary  waste.  The 
cultivated  mind  may  shed  a  tear  upon  the  horrors 
of  the  past,  but  a  tear  like  rain  drops  in  the  beams 


lifiTl 
Mil 


7- 


*  Some  of  the  horrors  of  this  long  chain  of  snnguinary  events, 
will  be  noticed  in  tlie  sequel  of  this  treatise. 


liET.   IV.] 


>VEST   CANADA   CREEK. 


5B 


MILES. 

—81 


r— 86 


of  the  sun.  A  review  of  the  present  must  be  de- 
Jightful  to  every  generous  and  feeling  heart.  It  is 
a  picture  on  whieli  is  traced,  the  most  interesting 
revolution  in  the  moral  and  physical  condition  of 
human  nature.  There  is  seen  the  region,  where  a 
few  years  past,  roamed  the  blood  stained  savage, 
and  where  now  dwells  in  peace  and  plenty  the 
civilized  man.  Where  in  times  remote,  stood  an 
expansive  lake,  and  where  now  bloom  the  most  lux- 
uriant harvests.  Spring  had  made  but  little  ad- 
vance, at  the  time  I  passed  this  remarkable  place ; 
I  amused  my  fancy  in  contemplating  what  it  would 
exhibit  when  decked  in  all  the  gaiety  of  the  vernal 
season,  oi>  when  the  fields  and  meadows  were 
clothed  in  me  rich  garb  of  summer.  Lost  in  this 
pleasing  reverie,  time  past  unheaded  until  my  re- 
collection was  aroused  by  linding  myself  at  the 
mouth  of 
West  Canada  creek. 

From  the  projecting  bill  below  this  creek,  a  very 
comprehensive  view  is  afforded  of  both  the  German 
and  Herkimer  flats.  These  expansive  bottoms  are 
in  fact,  the  same  body  of  soil,  being  only  divided 
by  the  Mohawk  river,  winding  from  the  hills  on 
its  south,  to  those  on  its  north  side.  West  Canada 
'  creek  is  a  stream  of  considerable  magnitude,  rising 
in  a  very  hilly  or  rather  mountainous  country 
which  forms  the  south-west  angle  of  Hamilton 
county.  This  elevated  tract  is  the  coiUinuation  of 
the  same  ridge  that  crosses  the  Mohawk  at,  and 
forms  the  Little  Falls,  and  which  gives  rise  in  the 
same  neighborhood  to  the  two  Canadas,  and  to  the 
Sacondago  branch  of  the  Hudson.  West  Canada, 
like  its  namesake,  falls  impetuously  in  almost  all 
its  course.    Its  higher  branches  How  westwardly 


54 


yiLIiAOB  or  IIERHIMRB. 


LET.  IV.] 


itiliiiif 


■  M 


MILB8. 

— 8G  ubout  twenty  mileS)  unite  and  enter  Herkimer^  ami 
handing  abruptly  south*  wind  through  (he  latter 
county  twenty  more  miles,  and  is  then  lost  in  the  Mo- 
hawk. The  spring  floods  of  those  short  mountain 
streams,  are  terrible.  A  fine  wooden  brlJge  for- 
merly crossed  West  Canada  near  its  mouth,  but  the 
freshet  of  last  winter  carried  it  away  ;  the  inhabi- 
tants are  now  erecting  another,  which  will  be,  no 
doubt,  completed  in  the  course  of  the  ensuing  sum- 
mer. I  passed  the  creek  in  a  sktlf,  and  soon  found 
myself  in 
1—87     The  village  of  Herkimer, 

This  villfigc  stands  upon  an  e1<>vated  but  alluvial 
plain,  composed  of  rounded  pebbles,  sand  and  clay. 
It  occupies  the  central  part  of  the  flats  of  the  same 
name.  The  neighboring  coimtry  is  well  cultivated, 
the  soil  exuberantly  fertile,  and  the  improvements 
exhibit  an  air  of  wealth  and  industry.  The  Ilerki* 
mer  flats  do  not  appear  to  be  so  tamely  level  as  those 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Mohawk.  In  point  of 
timber,  they  present  one  general  character ;  sugar 
tree,  elm,  white  walnut  or  butternut,  prevails  upon 
the  bottoms  near  the  streams ;  on  the  hills  or  ele- 
vated slopes  are  found  oak,  hemlock,  linden,  (bass- 
wood)  sugar  maple,  elm,  ash,  and  hickory.  Of 
oak,  ash,  and  hickory,  several  species  of  each  oo- 

I  remained  bnt  a  short  time  in  the  village  of 

Herkimer,  set  out,  and  after  passing  the  small  and 

Ci — 93  unimportant  village  of  iSc/tiii/Ze?*,  found  myself  about 

four  in  the  afternoon  in 
S—lOl  Utica. 

The  plain  of  the  Herkimer  flats  continues  from  that  vil- 
lage to  Schuyler,  where  the  roau  rises  upon  higher  but  still 
level  land.    The  slope  is  here  on  the  north  side.     Some  part 


IBT.  IV.] 


UTICA. 


5i 


of  ihe  country  is  not  very  well  improved.  More  wood  land 
remains  here  than  I  had  seen  any  where  else  since  leaving 
Schenectady.  Tiiis  character  however  changes  in  approach- 
ing the  city  of  Utica,  whose  vicinity  exhibits  a  well  cultivat- 
ed and  wealthy  neighborhood.  The  whole  country  presents 
marks  of  not  very  ancient  submersion.  The  super-stratum 
IS  every  where  sand,  loam  and  rounded  pebbles ;  the  materi- 
als in  various  deg**ees  of  respective  prevalence  and  commix- 
ture ;  the  whole  aflTording  in  many  places  a  soil  of  extraor- 
dinary fertility. 

Utica  is  approached  from  the  north,  in  part  by  a  very  bad 
road,  and  in  part  by  a  very  good  causeway.  The  latter  is 
about  a  mile  in  length,  but  does  not  cross  the  level  alluvial 
flats  of  the  Mohawk.  The  residue  of  the  road,  was,  when  I 
passed  it,  in  a  wretched  condition. 

Utiea  occupier,  the  site  of  old  fort  Schuyler,  and  stands 
upon  the  right  or  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk  river,  in  Oneida 
county,  and  in  north  latitude  43°  06.  The  site  of  this  town 
is  a  gentle  ascent,  net  exceeding  two  degrees,  if  so  much. 
The  opposite  bank  of  the  Mohawk  is  for  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  a  perfect  unbroken  plain.  The  town  stands  at  the  low- 
est depression  of  the  ancient  basin.  The  adjacent  country 
rises  so  imperceptibly  that  no  elevation  of  consequence  is 
perceivable  from  the  streets.  Few  trees  are  visible  except 
Ucmlock  and  sugar  maple.  This  town  has  two  banks,  one 
a  branch  of  that  of  Manhattan,  in  the  city  of  New-York,  the 
other  formed  by  tlie  citizens,  and  incorporated  since  1812. 
Some  very  productive  manufactories  exist  in  this  neighbor- 
hood. The  commerce  of  the  place  appears  -flourishing  ;  a 
matter  of  course,  as  Utica  is  a  kind  of  thoroughfare  between 
Albany  and  the  central  and  western  parts  of  the  state  of 
New-York.  The  grand  canal  will  pass  tiirough  this  town, 
and  add  much  to  its  importance  as  a  place  of  business. 


*  The  latitude  I  obtained  in  Utica  from  that  accurate  mathe- 
matician Isaac  B:iiggs,  who  also  gave  mc  the  variation  of  the 
jnagnelic  needle  there,  4*  1 9 '  W. 


56 


UTICA. 


[let.  V. 


Utica  contains  at  this  time  near  5000  inhabitants,  between 
%  anil  500  houses,  with  stores,  taverns,  book  stores,  and 
other  appendages  of  a  Jlourishiug  country  town.  Here  roads 
diverge  in  all  direetions  ;  down  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk 
to  Schenectady ;  westward  to  Auburn,  Geneva,  Canandai- 
gua,  Batavia,  and  Buffalo ;  southward  towards  tlio  valleys 
of  the  Delai/are  and  Susquchannah  rivers ;  and  northward 
to  Sacket's  Harbor. 

The  day  I  write  is  heavy  and  threatens  rain.  The  stage 
does  not  leave  this  town  until  to-morrow  i  I  shall  however 
trust  the  weather  and  my  feet,  and  set  out  as  usual,  with  my 
cane  in  one  hand  and  uiy  tablets  in  the  other.  You  will  not 
again  hear  from  me  before  1  reach  Sacket's  Harbor ;  in  the 
mean  time,  though  I  am  daily  advancing  farther  from  home, 
I  am  not. the  less  sincerely. 

Dear  Sir, 

Your  devoted  friends 


■^■i.^N.tyM. — ^ 


LETTER  V, 


Sacked s  Harbor,  May  ±2lh,  1818, 
Dear  Sir, 

Drenched  to  the  skin,  I  arrived  here  yesterday  even^ 
ing,  at  10  P.  M.  Enclosed  you  have  a  transcript  of  my  jour* 
nal  from  Utica  to  this  town.  I  was  fortunately  favored  with 
good  weather  the  greatest  part  of  the  way,  and  only  had  a 
heavy  rain  to  close  my  journey  hither. 

MILES. 

1  From  Utica  to  cross-roads. 

1— -2      Road  to  Romct 

liCaves  that  which  leads  towards  Sackct's  Har- 
bor ;  the  latter  now  assumes  its  north-west  course. 


liET.  V.J 


no  AD  FROM  rncA. 


S7 


h  between 

MILES 

tores,  and 

t— 3 

lere  roads 

1  Mohawk 

Canaiidai- 

ho  Yalle^'s        ' 

lorlhward 

riie  stage 

1  liowcver 

*  with  my 

u  will  not 

ir ;  in  the 

oin  home, 

JS'*orthrop*s. 

After  Icjiviiig  Ullca  and  proeecding  ns  lar  as  (he 
cross  roads,  I  hud  the  ibrUine  bv  cart'lcssness  or 
some  other  cause  to  take  a  wroii^  road,  and  wan- 
dered to  the  northward  about  two  miles,  but  fiiul- 
ing  my  error  1  wUh  some  (rouble  regained  iii^'  in- 
tended roatl.  I  found  the  country  ritiinj;  more  ra- 
pidly than  I  aniicipatid.  A  small  creek  which 
rises  in  the  Itigh  ground  north  of  Ltiea*  and  wi;ich 
enters  the  Mohawk  liver  nearly  opposi(e  that 
town,  has  cut  so  deep  a  ravine  in  tlie  yielding  ma- 
terials (lirough  wliich  it  flows,  as  to  he  passed  wi(h 
diflicully.  I  strayed  to  llie  east  of  this  creek,  and 
was  forced  to  rc(urn  to  the  cfoss  roads  to  regain 
iny  way. 

Above  Northrop's  the  road  ascends  in  some  pla- 
ces genlly  and  others  abrupJly,  along  the  aeciivity 
«f  the  hills.  I  frequendy  turned  to  enjoy  (lio 
prospect  behind  me,  which  though  interrupted  by 
the  woods,  was  exposed  at  intervals  by  the  farnjs. 
which  have  been  cleared  near  tlie  road.  As  I  ap- 
proached (he  summit  I  found  (lie  ascent  more  rapid, 
and  the  adjacent  land  n»ore  free  from  timber,  con- 
sequently (he  prospect  expanded  at  every  step  ;  and 
«n  the  ex(reme  brow  a. large  farm  exposed  to  full 
view  (he  ci<y  of  Utica,  (he  vicini(y,  and  the  valley 
of  the  Mohawk  to  the  farthest  lintit  of  vision; 
The  eye  has  a  rangt^  of  uu>iv  (ban  (l»ir(y  miles 
«ast,  south  and  southwest,  Utica,  thou;';h  five 
miles  distant,  seemed  to  lie  at  my  feet.  As  I  stood 
and  gazed  upon  (his  no!)Ie  pros])ec(,  I  could  not 
avoid  exclaiming  men(ally  "  (hat  I  had  seen  many 
**  more  sublime  views,  many  more  grand,  but  not 
*'  one  had  ever  before  met  n»y  eye,  that  so  cons- 
'*  plctely  answered  to  my  conceplions.  of  (he  fiuk 

F 


Ijfi'W 


B$ 


TtUVI)    VnoM    LTICA. 


[let.  v. 


MiLi:s, 

I— r, 


V— -13 


1  '  .(, 


♦'  son  sjtmI  hraiidri:!  in  Janjlscapc."  CeHuinly  I 
Imk)  nioir  (liun  a  ihuiisaiid  {'..nns  spirad  belore  ine, 
Jiian.v  iMiiulirds  could  he  seiTi  a(  ui':  ;:!ancc.  Those 
Ticju"  wvvc  s(M«n  nios!  distiriclly,  wh'dst  ilhosc  more 
irmole  j^rsidiiallv  diininisiu'd  in  »'iM\  and  hpcaine, 
from  iiicifjisid  distance,  less  dislinci,  until,  like 
llie  vast  iiu  lined  [)!ane  upon  \>hich  tlie;^'  stood,  they 
were  finally  lost  upon  the  verj^c  of  the  distant  sky- 
That  mind  must  be  void  of  the  least  sympathies 
of  human  nature,  »lio  could  hehold  this  line  pros- 
])ecf,  uidiOiit  feelinj;  a  strong  sensation  of  pleas- 
uie,  GriUil'jiir.'j^  indeed  must  he  the  reflection 
upon  the  sum  of  domestic  peace,  plenty,  aflection, 
ntid  eomlbrt,  enjoved  within  its  limits. 
TitTcni  upon  the  Itihle  land  of  the  hill. 

(In.     upon  (he  lollom  iiorthivard  of  the  hill. 
Cdyirrsluvcrn  upon  nine  mile  rullf  Jloxving  soulh- 

n-rs!  inlo  Uic  Jlnhinvk. 
Village  of  Trcnlon. 

Tlius  far  I  proceedeci  the  same  evening  I  left 
Utica,  and  round  mysell'very  well  disposed  to  rest, 
after  a  walk  of  seventeen  miles,  including  the  di- 
rect distance,  my  error  and  its  remedy,  in  my  out- 
set from  Utica. 

J5rtween  Utica  and  Trenton  I  found  four  varie- 
ties of  soil  and  timber.  Upon  the  MohaMk  flats 
exist  a  deep  black  alluvial  loam,  with  a  slight  in- 
termixture of  pelihlc.  As  the  difiTerent  banks  rise, 
pebble  becomes  more  plentiful  and  decumbent,  in 
relation  to  tbe  other  materials  of  the  soil.  The 
timber  irpon  the  alluvial,  as  also  upon  the  contigu- 
ous Imnks,  is  composed  of  hemlock,  beech,  sugar, 
map'e  aud  eJu),  \\U\\  rare  examples  of  other  trees. 
'I'he  productive  quality  of  tbe  alluvial  yoil  is  very 
strong,  that  of  the  contiguous  slopes  but  little  in- 


LET.  V.j 


FACE   OF   TIIR   COUN TUT. 


39 


MlLliS. 

— IJ  fcriop.  Tlic  laUt»p  s;)ci!Jps  of  \a:m\  more  «pnn;*y 
,  anil  Wi'l  (liiin  (li«'  ('»h*jjhm%  llioiitrii  llni  o():i(i-ai  v 
"Woulii  iippcar  IVoiii  rcliUivc  p(isiJi«»ii.  Tin*  c;vni*rjil 
crop  ill  lliis  section  ol*  (he  slate  of  Nc\v-V(H'k,  ap- 
jK-ars  to  he  innizo,  wlieat,  r.vo,  oats,  and  meadow 
jaji'ass.  Fruit  trees  HMituiile  (o  tlie  climate,  siieli  as 
iijiples,  pears,  plumbs  and  clieri-ies,  appear  p!«nli- 
I'ul.  Peaeh  trees  cannot  here  endure  tlie  sevcnt;^' 
«r  u  inter  fold. 

Rising  ahove  the  alluvion  and  eonti;j;ima.s  hanks, 
tippears  the  second  species  of  soil  ;  this  lalter  va- 
5*iet,v  of  land  it  called  in  the  colonial  lai!f^ua,u:e  oC 
Ihe  country  fulcn'ul  land.  'J'hls  soil  is,  as  I  have 
already  observed,  moi-e  sj)un{^}'  (ha«  that  of  th« 
alluvion,  an<]  certainly  much  less  productive.  I 
ought,  however,  (o  premise  that  unusual  rains  had 
preceded  my  visit  to  this  coimt ry,  and  tliat  many 
jdaces  apjjcared  then  wet  and  even  inundated, 
^vhicli  would  not  be  subject  to  sin'iiiar  inconven- 
ience in  a  moi'e  ntoderate  season.  The  water  lel't 
on  the  ground  by  recent  rains,  could  not  neverthe- 
less, destroy  the  means  of  lorming  a  correct  couj- 
parative  estimate.  From  a  ji^reater  slope,  every 
other  circumstance  equal,  the  intcrral  hind  ojig'it 
to  be  less  moist  than  the  alluvion,  the  contrary  is, 
as  I  have  observed  the  I'aet.  'I'he  varieties  ol* 
iimbcr  upon  the  interval,  does  not  nsalerially  dif- 
lei*  from  those  upon  the  alluvial  land,  except  black 
l)irch  (betula  ni;^ra)  v«'hich  is  more  abundant  upon 
Che  former  than  u^mn  the  latter  soil. 

Ascendin;^  towards  the  suinnsit  of  the  hills,  and 
helbre  gaining  the  apex,  I  foimd  deej)  ruts  ina<!e 
?)y  the  wash  of  t!ie  road,  the  sides  of  which  laid 
bare  projections  of  secondary   nnea  ^late,   lyiM;^iH 


00 


ifAtIS   Olf  TflK    COVRTUY. 


[LST.  V. 


M|Ln«!. 
— J3 


lis  mi^inal  position  ,*  forming  (lie  the  (hiid  variety 
uT  soil. 

'I'liowgli  npparrrnly  proiluetive  as  the  interval 
(r:i('t,  (liis  hUxU*  iTgion  must,  IVom  its  greater  vle- 
vation,  be  ntoie  suhject  to  eari}  and  lute  IVont,  than 
eillier  of  (he  two  preeedin,:^  varit  ties  of  land. 
F;iiiU8  of  |i;reat  extent  are  open  upon  eaeh  sretion. 
'I'he  lii;;liesl  sunMuit  of  the  hill  where  the  road  pas- 
ses is  eleared  land,  and  alibi  ds  to  the  traveller  a 
convenient  opportunity'  of  revie>ving  the  vast  ex- 
[uinse  around  Utiea. 

Upon  the  (ahlc  land  above  the  mica  slate,  now 
repose  iiuuiense  bodies  of  rounded  granite  and  bas- 
altic pebble.  The  present  respective  position  of 
these  roeks,  arc  so  difterenl  from  that  assigned 
them  b^'  geologists,  and  the  diflieulty  of  aeeounting 
from  an}  known  operation  of  nature,  for  the  trans- 
{jortation  to  sueh  distance  from  their  primitive  beds, 
and  elevation  to  sueh  heights  of  blocks  of  granite 
and  basalt,  often  eight  or  ten  feet  diameter,  that 
the  task  of  aeeounting  for  existent  phenomena 
must  be  left  by  me,  to  those  better  qualified,  or 
more  disposed  to  enter  into  the  disquisition.  I  can 
u!i!y  observe,  that  the  schist  or  slate  demonstrably 
reposes  in  its  primitive  position  ;  whilst  the  incum- 
bent pebbles,  enormous  as  they  are,  have  evidently 
been  Ibrcf  d  into  their  present  state,  by  the  agency 
of  sonse  iluid.  AVater,  as  that  body  now  operates 
in  either  of  its  known  states  of  ice  or  fluidity, 
could  never  preserve  in  motion,  consequently 
transport  one  of  the  blocks  I  have  seen  to  any, 
even  the  smallest  distance,  much  less  cover  an  im- 
mense  stiriace  with  those  rounded  masses,  Mhich 
exiiibit  all  sizes,  from  a  grain  of  sand  to  bodies  of 
more  tiian  twenty  feet  diameter.     This  with  many 


LET.  v.] 


FACE    OF   THE    COUNXnY. 


6] 


—13 


odicr  plicnnmonal  have  aeon,  induoos  nic  (o  bdievo 
tliat  an  onli'i*  ut'diiiigs  once,  and  luraf^rcat  ion^lli 
of  (ini«>,  I'xiiitcil  upun  lliis  pla.ii'i,  prudiiciii;^  clK'Uii 
tliiU  iriiiaiii  wiiiMi  liii'ir  cau^ics  have  ceaiL'ii  (u  u|ic* 
raff,  perhaps  lorevi'i*. 

lj|)ur;  (he  (able  land,  stii^ai*  maple  ceases  alniosl 
entiirl^  ,  though  ho  very  ahuiidaiit  upon  (he  alluvi- 
al, in(ei'val,  and  even  upon  (he  Hcitis(use  tract. 
The  blaek  hii-eh  eonunenees  a  shi'uh  near  the  Ma- 
hawk  river,  but  \vhet\  elevated  upon  (he  (able  l,i:iil, 
assumes  the  size  and  majesty  of  a  rores(  Iree  ofihu 
first  magnitude.  Beeeh  on  (he  eo!i(rai7,  a  stately 
ti'ee  on  (he  low  grounds,  dwindles  in  nioiuiiiiig  to 
a  n)0]v  alpine  air,  and  upon  the  table  land  is  rare, 
and  of  stinted  growth.  I'Jm  and  lieiuloek  forms 
the  mass  of  the  fore**:!  upon  the  table  land. 

Either  Irorp  i!:c  fla(ness  of  the  land  or  from 
some  other  cause,  the  table  land  is  extremely 
swampy,  and  of  course  inconvenient  (o  cultivate  ; 
it  is  here  narrow,  not  exceeding  a  mile  in  width. 

Upon  the  northern  brow  of  i!ie  hill,  a  prospect 
expands  of  little  less  diuieusions  than  that  seen 
from  its  southern  slope.  The  northern  landscape 
is  less  interesting  than  the  sou(hern  at  this  time,  as 
presenting  only  a  mass  of  woods  with  a  few  open- 
ings only,  whereas  that  of  the  south  exhibits  an 
immense  surface  of  cultivated  country. 

To  me  this  northern  view  was  hi.i;h!y  pleasing., 
ns  it  iirst  laid  before  me,  upon  its  back  ground,  part 
of  the  basin  of  the  Canadian  sea.  Descending  the 
ileulivity.  1  gazed  upon  the  blue  verge  before  me 
as  if  I  had  felt  myself  entering  into  a  new  world. 
To  me  this  transition  was  not  illusory.  Though 
upon  the  same  planet,  and  even  upon  the  samo 
eontinent,  (he  images  I  now  see  around  me  are  so 

F2 


:H 


6^ 


'. ,  ••.i 


UTIC.V    TO   TKMXTO-T. 


[tET.    V. 


diilVn'nt  fidin  tlmso  I  have  F;r(Mi  For  u  long  pcnml 
uci'«Lst():iu'«l  Ui  i,-.  hold.  (Iitit  inv  siMisafious  would 
iiul  i)c  iiiuuh  iitoi'c  changed  if  I  was  transpoi'ted  to 
another  world  in  reality. 

I  ibnnd  tlie  snriaee  of  the  slope  as  I  descended, 
composed  of  elav^  sand*  and  immense  bodies  of 
rounded  pebble.  I'he  present  slaJe  of  the  interior 
of  North  America,  exhibits  phenomena  at  everj 
step,  which  demonstrate  that  water  or  some  oth- 
er llnid  has  flowed  over  the  surface  of  the  land  fot* 
a  ver^  great  length  of  time.  This  fluid  has  beeu 
the  agent  of  modiiieation.  Whilst  the  surface  near 
the  Canadian  sea  continued  in  a  state  of  submer- 
sion, it  is  very  probable  that  the  face  of  the  earth 
was  generally  uniforiri  tlioisgh  inclining.  When 
the  waters  retired,  the  <irain  occasioned  by  rains 
and  springs,  were  the  commencement  of  our  pre- 
sent rivcrij.  which  in  the  long  lapse  of  ages,  have 
been  worn  down  to  their  present  level.  "Whilst  the 
land  continued  submersed,  fragments  of  granite, 
trap,  and  other  rocks,  may  have  been  disrupted 
from  their  original  beds,  and  gradually  forced  for- 
ward, and  whilst  in  motion  rounded  by  attrition, 
and  finally  deposited  over  more  recent  formations. 
As  the  abrasion  of  the  wafers  in  the  new  formed 
rivers  di-epened  their  beds,  the  debris  of  primitive 
rocks  became  exposed,  and  rolled  down  in  vast  bo- 
dies along  the  declivities  of  the  iSills.  This  latter 
proc<'ss  is  the  only  part  of  the  great  geological  re- 
volution, th»'  continues  in  operation  ;  the  river 
beds  are  daily  becoming  deeper ;  strata  that  for- 
merly caused  cataracts,  are  many  of  them  com- 
pletely cut  by  the  streams,  and  all  are  \ielding  to 
the  force  of  the  ever  acting  fluid,  that  passes  over 
tlu'ir  broken  ledges. 


LET.    v.] 


tfTICA   TO    TRENTON. 


6C» 


o 


MU'ES. 
—IS 


suriace  near 


■5t 


Aficr  rcacliiiig  the  base  of  the  hill,  ou  the  side 
opposite   to   (liut   ol'  U(ica,  coniiuenees    a   sandy 
region,  wiiii-h  eoiUiuiu's  (o  Trenton.     Tiiub-.H*  noar 
the  la(tcr  viliaj^c,  heniloek,  beech,  sii,^ai*  inai)ie, 
elm,  a^h,  and  black  biieh.     Thouj^h  uiuc.h  eli'iii'cd 
land   appears  neai*   the  road,    1  saw  but   very  lilth? 
winter  j»rain  gi  owing  in  the  iields.     Demanding  oi* 
some  of  (he  iniiubifants    (he    reason,  of  wiiat  ap- 
peared to  nje  deiet'ti\e  husbaruiry,  i  unirornkly  re- 
ceived in  rejiiy,   that   the  early  and  uuseasoniible 
thaws  during  the  winter  and  spring,  destroyed  the 
small  grain.     How  far  the  opinion  of  the  inlrabi- 
tants  was  founded   oa  eorr^'ct  experience,  or  upon 
bad  fanning,  I   cannot  pretend  to  determine,    but 
ani  inclined  to  ascribe  the  elilet  to  the  latter  cause. 
a»ly  own  opinion  is  formed   from. the  appearance  of 
the  soil  and  timber,  and  from  t!:e  geographical  po- 
sition of  the  e<mn(ry.     Sugar  mnpie  is  here  so  abun- 
dant, as  to  form  tlie  prineipitl  article  of  fuel  used 
by  the  inhabitants,  and.  atfords  them  the  means  of 
manufacturing   a   considerable   quantity  oC  sugar, 
an  advantage  the  be.ieHts  of  which,  they  have  but 
partially    realized.     Ever  since  passing  the  Little 
Fails  in  the  Mohawk,  1  have  noticed  the  constant: 
decrease   of  every    species  of  oak   in  the  forests  .; 
and  since  passing  Utica,  1  have  had  still  more  rea- 
son to  make  this  remark.     This  circumstance  is  u 
subject  of  regret,  for  nuiny  of  the  most  in<lis!)en- 
sable  usos   in  domestic  economy  and   agriculture, 
no  known  tree  does  eireclually  answer  ihe   purpo- 
ses  of  oak.     Orchards  1   perceive   are  rare,  and 
confined   almost  exclusively  to  the  apple.     iXeither 
the  climate  or  soil  can  be  ehargable  with  this  defi- 
ciency ;  it  can  only  be  accounted  for  in  unpardon- 
able neglect.     The  settlements  are,  in  a  considna- 


||5'-^- 


(Ja 


LTIt'A    TO   TRliSTON. 


[let.  V. 


JIILHS. 

—13     h}c  pait  rccnit,  inipiovciiirnfs  vill  fuIIo>v  the  in* 
crease  of  population,  wi'ullli,  and  inulligrnce.* 


*  The  following  is  from  tlmt  very  vnlitablo  citizen  Mr.  Ray  de 
ChauiDont,  and  was  pubii.^litd  in  the  IMcitaiitire  Advt^itiser  of  the 
city  ol"  New- York,  Nov.  l.tli,  18.8.  It  will  be  seen  that  1  liaveUie 
honor  to  agree  in  opinion  with  Mr.  Cliamnont,  as  lo  the  true  rea- 
son wiiy  orchards  are  n<»t  more  frequent  in  the  north-west  part  of 
the  state  of  New- York.  1  6o  not  renieinber  lo  lui  over  seen 
condensed  in  so  lew  words,  the  various  inducenienls  lo  pljriting 
and  cultivating  orchards^  as  in  tins  short;  ap])iopriate,  and  judi- 
cious address. 

'•  Extract  from  an  Address,  pronounced  before  the  Agricultural 
Society  of  Jelierson  county,  at  their  lirst  annual  fair,  Jield  at 
AVatertown,  Sept.  29,  i8lb— By  J.  Le  Kay  de  Chauuiont,  Vmn- 
ident  of  the  Society. 

'•  To  those  who  have  rot  been  sparii'g  enonph  of  their  fencing 
■wood,  1  would  recon.njend  the  plantir.g  of  young  lienilock  lo 
make  hedges.  1  met  with  such  near  Philadefphia,  on  the  farm  of 
.Tudge  Peters,  one  of  the  ni<:st  distil  guj.si.ed  agriculturalists  of  the 
age,  whose  example  alone  must  l;a\e  great  weight. 

"  It  was  ibr  some  time  doubled  b)  many  whether  this  country 
■would  ever  become  favorable  to  the  growth  ol  Iruit  lues  It  is 
true,  thai  in  n.anv  places,  the  first  ali<n  |.ls  were  rather  unsuc- 
cessiul :  but  as  llioseel  a  later  date  have  pro\ed  mere  fortunate,  I 
believe  tlmt  all  are  convinced  iJiis  «  arly  failure  was  owing  to  some 
temporary  cause.  Feihaps  it  ntight  ha\e  been  found  in  the  na- 
ture of  that  part  of  tlic  soil  thai  lay  qi'ite  at  the  surface.  Gene- 
lally,  to  the  deptli  of  Jrem  6  to  lo  inches,  it  is  a  black  nioidd 
made  by  tiie  annual  decomposition  of  the  leaves  of  trees  and 
6niall  ^egetables.  'Ibis  n.culd  niaj  be  too  liighly  charged  with 
\tgttable  n.atler  to  alicjid  r.ouiij}  n.ei  I  to  liuil  tr(<\s  At  any 
rat<',  it  lias  bt  en  no^tked  b\  nian\,  that  though  orchards  have 
bit  II  ])!anl«  d  on  such  land,  aiid  toiall}  tailed,  yet  a  new  att(  nipt 
npori  the  s.'inie  land,  nlur  jMOiighii  g  seveial  )t  ais  and  waimiig 
it  witi)  animal  manuie,  has  been  coniplelely  .successful.  Let 
this  I  e  as  it  nay,  it  is  tiow  well  ascertjiinc  <i  that  few  countries  in 
the  worltl  are  n  ore  (oij:*i'ial  to  the  giowlh  of  ihe  ap[)le,  the 
plumb,  n:any  species  ol  th.e  cherry,  and  most  of  the  smaller  fruits, 
such  as  tie  stravberrj,  la.'*)  IcrjN.  and  euiiant,  which  are  found 
io  grow  hixuiianti>.  |Mrdtieii;g  in  the  grtattsi  abundance.  It  is 
mn<  h  to  le  r(  <>iiUt<l  that  .m.  n.aiy  laxe  i;»gle(t«d  ibis  subject, 
since  the  rcuits  cf  hue  t>j,«  nn.t  its  n.nst  ha\e  effectually  re- 
moved tveiy  (kn.l  1  as  to  the  success  of  futme  attempts.  The 
e.xpenfe  of  i)laj)ting  an  orchard  is  trivial;  ccmpaied  vith  its  ad- 


LET.   Y. 


UTIOl   TO   TUEXTO-V. 


MILES. 

4 — 17     Jlemsau 

A   \iilage  in  the  right  bank  of  AVcst  Catiadn 
crook. 

2—19  L.  Hough's, 

3—22  T.  M.  bhddoiis. 

1 — '^3  Ilohnun'ti, 

3 — 20  lluti'lvjfs. 

1_27  SUhini'i'"iy. 

I — 31  lioonville  nvon  IJic  head  d'rcams  nf  liluck  river. 


Mir,  Jielit  at 
iniuiit,  Vix&' 


vantages,  considtring  it  meiely  as  a  source  of  profit.  Bi:t  the 
comfoitahlo  hixiiry  it  a(rt)rds  is  of  itself  a  swilicieiit  iuduceii.ent  j 
and  I  might  fmthcr  add,  if  necessary,  that  a  man  of  spirit  would 
draw  encouragement  from  the  circumstance,  that  a  good  orchard 
is  the  ornament  of  alarm,  and  gives  the  stranger  a  favoiahie 
opinion  of  tlie  wealth,  taste,  comfort  and  economy  of  the  owner, 
while  on  the  contrary,  the  sight  of  a  farm  destitute  of  lliese  use- 
ful improvements,  gives  iiim  tlie  idea  of  barrenness  and  indolence. 
Those  who  liave  neglected  the  planting  of  fruit  trees  would  do 
well  to  visit  some  of  the  flourishing  orchards  at  a  small  distance 
from  this  village.  There  they  would  receive  a  lively  reproof  for 
the  past,  and  great  encouragement  for  amending  in  future.  Some 
will  regret  that  the  owners  of  l!  iise  line  wdiards  have  not  extend- 
e<l  their  industry  to  tlie  cultivation  of  peach  trees.  Why  would 
they  not  grow  liero,  wiien  many  years  ago  a  nun.her  of  those 
fruits  arrived  to  their  due  maturity  in  one  of  tlie  most  northern 
positions  in  this  country,  at  the  old  terry  upon  the  St  Lawrence? 
But  I  muiit  give  place  to  a  judicious  ohservaiiwn  made  by  an  ex- 
perienced gardener  lately  come  into  this  country.  We  do  not 
let  the  the  roots  of  our  fritit  trees  liave  a  siillicient  sliaie  olcold 
in  the  winter.  Sometinies,  hefoie  the  ground  is  snllicioritiy  fio-/- 
en  to  reach  the  most  nutritive  root^  of  uur  fruits  trees,  the  snow 
fills,  and  connnuiiieates  genial  wjirmtli  to  the  tartii,  wliicli,  ac- 
companied with  the  njolllng  snow,  starts  the  vegtta'ion  too  early. 
Then  come  the  late  frosts,  which  fnuiiiig  the  trees  too  far  ad- 
vanced, give  them  a  check  fatal  to  their  pioductior.  The  reme- 
dy ofliMod  is  to  takt!  away  in  the  eaily  part  of  the  winter,  the 
snow  which  surrounds  the  more  delicate  tii'  your  fruit  trees,  Iho 
one  for  instances  which  produces  the  peach,  so  us  to  let  the  roots 
have  their  share  of  the  cold.  Then  let  the  snow  he  tlie  cover 
which  will  foster  this  protecting  cold  till  a  period  nioic  clesi«ahlo 
for  the  vegetation  of  the  tree." 


!  ■ 


■  '*S 


R* 


"■-.«;■  . 
■  ( 


«0 

Mn.Es. 


IIEEK   111V£U. 


[let.  y. 


2—51 


4—55 
9— 6i 
1—65 


Sujrar  rheVf 


One  of  (he  main  branclies  of  Black  river,  flow- 
ini;  with  great  rujiidifv  (o  the  eastward  in  liie  main 
stream.  Secondary  limestone,  >vitli  little  admix- 
ture uf  shells,  and  extremely  hard,  now  formn  iii« 
base  of  the  eouutry.  Timber  continues  as  before 
noted.  The  country  is  very  hilly  and  broken.  Black 
river  is  in  ev?:'y  respect  a  nionnfain  stream  ;  the 
tributary  waters  uhich  form  it  ilow  on  each  side 
from  very  elevated  land,  when  conjpared  with  th» 
bed  of  the  princij^al  viver.  Hills  rising  very  abrupdy 
range  along  to  I  he  west  of  the  road,  and  now  at 
near  the  middle  of  ]\Iay,  are  pouring  dov\n  Hoods 
formed  by  melting  snow,  masses  of  which  are  fre- 
quently visible  from  the  road,  reminding  the  trav- 
eller that  the  chill  of  winter  is  not  passed. 

2 — 38     Village  of  Leyden. 

2 — iO     Lcijden  Fast  Office, 

6— ie     House-':. 

3 — i9     Gulf  creek,  a  large  branch  of  Black  river. 

Mavtinsbnrgf  s'jat   of  justice,  in   and   for    Lewis 

counfy.     Here  I  remained  over  night,  and  on  the 

morning  of  JNIay  12lh,  recommenced  my  journey. 

Louville. 

Wrighrs, 

Deer  river, 

A  considerable  and  extremely  rapid  branch  of 
Black  river.  Its  banks  and  bed  schistose  lime. 
stone,  a  ledge  of  which  forms  a  beautipil  cascade 
within  fifry  yards  above  (he  road,  which  passes  the 
stream  at  this  place  over  a  good  substantial  wood- 
en bridge.  The  river  has  worn  a  deep  channel 
vliose  banks  are  nearly  perpendicular.  Deer  river 
has  its  source  in  the  same  ridge  of  hills,  which  pro- 
duces Salmon  river.  The  very  considerable  falls 
which  occur  in  both  streams^  prove  the  great  cle- 


LET.    V.j 


WATEUTOWN. 


67 


MILES. 

— iib  valion  of  (!u'ir  sources.  Salmon  rivor  rises.  pnHly 
in  l.cuis  and  partly  in  Oswego  county  ;  ils  ineneral 
eoui'sy  is,  however,  in  the  latter,  runniuj;  west 
lliirty  I)  il<  s,  eui.ers  ]\I«'xie»/  JJay  of  lake  (Iniario, 
Iweuly-five  luiles,  a  little  west  (.r  south,  IVoni  Sack- 
el's  IJarhour.  15esi(!{'  a  ninnber  ofcalaracls  ofless- 
er  note,  tijis  sjforf  river  lias  in  oue  instance,  a  fall  ol* 
upwards  oC  one  hundred  Icet. 

l__6fi     T.  Campbell's. 

3 — (;9     Champion  ViUas;e. 

6 — 73     ViUa^^e  of  llnlUuiiU  Tulllc's  larrrn. 

This  villa;;e  stands  upon  a  bed  of  schistose 
Jimeston)',  at  the  foot  oC  a  ve>'"  high  and  steep  hill. 
The  limestone  in  u>any  places  with  a  very  slight 
covering.  Kising  the  hill  above  the  village,  1  had 
the  pleasure  to  behold  an  extensive  prospect  back- 
wards over  the  country  towards  Utiea.  Jietweea 
Rutland  and  Watertown,  Blaek  river  has  a  large 
bend  or  sweep  to  the  northeast,  and  a  circumstance 
worthy  of  note^  is,  that  both  branches  of  the  Os- 
wegatehie  have  siihilar  and  correspondent  bends. 
This  adds  another  to  the  numerous  proofs  alion  ed 
by  the  courses  of  our  rivers,  that  in  their  original 
for]nation,they  were  inHueneed  in  many  instances^  by 
causes  which  operated  over  extensive  tracts  of  coun- 
try, and  produced  a  uniformity  which  strikes  f<»rcihly 
attentive  observers,  uj^ou  our  geological  phcnou.cua. 

6 — 81     Jt^alerlown, 

A  line  newly  built  Village,  on  the  right  bank  of 
Black  river,  in  .Jelferson  county.  A  very  visible 
change  is  now  apparent  in  the  soil  and  tiuiber,  and 
surface  of  the  countrv.  From  Ltica  to  Deer  river, 
hemlock  swamps  are  frequent,  nmch  of  the  road  j;ass- 
es  these  swamps,  on  causewa,\s  or  round  logs,  pro- 
diu'ing  very  (Ircsome  and  tedious  travelling.  These 


tfd 


IIROWKVILLE. 


[let.  Y. 


MILKS. 
—81 


'fill, 


•i— .85 


Bwainps  become  rare,  since  passing  Doer  river, 
and  before  reaching  Watertown  cnliiely  cease. 
Oak  and  hickory  now  intermixes  >vith  the  otlier 
species  of  timber  trees  in  the  composition  of  the 
forests.  Hemlock  has  become  scarce.  The  super- 
stratum of  the  soil,  is  a  black  loam,  intermixe() 
^'ith  rounded  pebbles,  resting  upon  a  base  of  strata- 
fied  limestone.  Fields  of  small  grain  arc  here 
visible  in  every  direction,  and  in  many  places 
\^here  the  stratum  of  incumbent  soil  above  the 
limestone,  is  so  scanty  as  would  seem  to  preclude 
culture.  Good  thriving  orchards  of  apple  and  pear 
trees  also  abound. 

At  AVatertown,  Black  river  has  worn  a  channel 
into  the  solid  limestone  of  forty  or  Afty  feet  in 
depth.  The  river  is  about  sixty  yards  wide,  and 
has  by  far  the  most  rapid  current  of  any  river, 
great  or  small,  that  I  have  ever  seen  ;  it  may, 
indeed,  be  considered  from  its  source  to  its  mouth 
as  a  chain  of  rapids,  interpersed  occasionally  with 
placid  intervals,  which  are  compensated  by  falls, 
of  from  10  to  70  feet  perpendicular.  Black 
river  is,  in  point  of  size,  the  third  stream  whose 
entire  course  is  in  the  state  of  Xew-Yorkk  I'he 
quantity  of  water  in  its  current  at  this  season,  is 
no  doubt,  above  the  medium  of  its  volume,  but  at 
all  times  tliis  stream  must  discharge  a  body  of 
water  greater  than  would  be  expected  from  its 
comparative  length  on  our  maps. 
BroicnviUe, 

Leaving  Watertown,  the  road  crosses  Black  river 
on  a  fine  wotxlen  bridge,  and  continues  to  Brown- 
ville  along  tlie  bunk  of  Black  river,  over  a  bed  of 
limestone,  in  many  places  nuked  rock  wiliiout  any 
vegetable  eartli,  trees  often  standing  upon  the 
smooth  surface  of  the  stone,  and  only  prevented 


LET.   Y.] 


BBOWNVILLB. 


69 


MILES. 

—85 


from  falling  by  extending  their  roots  between  the 
interstices  of  the  rock. 

■  About  half  a  mile  below  AVatertown,  the  river 
rushes  over  a  rapid  of  more  than  four  hundred  yards 
in  length.  Lined  on  both  banks  by  precipices  of 
limestone,  upon  which)  the  stream  impetuous  as  it 
is,  can  make  but  a  very  slow  impression.  Dashing 
with  apparently  irresistible  force,  the  rage  of  the 
current  is  repelled  by  the  rough  shelving  shores. 
Where  the  road  passes  near  this  cataract,  the  river 
is  one  sheet  of  foam,  presenting  a  scene  of  grandeur 
much  superior  to  what  would  be  commonly  ex- 
pected from  the  supposed  diminutive  volume  of 
water.  « 

The  village  of  Brownville  is  indebted  for  not 
only  its  name,  but  its  existence  also,  to  that  dis- 
tinguished American  general,  Jacob  Brown,  who 
has  his  family  residence  within  its  precincts.  The 
village  is  built  upon  the  right  bank  of  Black  river. 
A  cataract  with  a  perpendicular  fall  of  15  or  20 
feet,  opposite  the  village,  has  afibrded  a  very  eligi- 
ble site  for  mills,  which  has  been  improved.  A 
substantial  woo4len  bridge  has  been  extended  over 
Black  river  above  the  mills.  I  passed  this  place 
in  a  heavy  rain,  and  had  not  so  good  an  opportunity 
of  observing  its  position  as  I  could  have  desired. 
From  all  I  could  perceive,  the  village  and  the  ad- 
jacent country  exhibited  marks  of  prosperity  and 
rapid  improvement. 

Black  river  continues  below  Brownville  its  ordi- 
nary rapidity  for  about  two  miles,  wh?re  it  is  lost 
in  the  head  of  the  former  bay  de  Nivernois,  a  small 
part  of  which  forms  the  well  known  Sacket's  Har- 
bor. 

The  road  after  crossing  Brownville  bridge,  winds 


m^ 


70 


SACKEt's  IIAl'JSOR. 


[LKT.  VI. 


fTS'lMi;:' 


MILRS. 

— 85     a!)(nit  (Iiroe  miles  j](.,vn  tlio  vsillrv  of  Dlack  river, 
l!ii-n  risi's  upon  the  ilat  (al)le   laiul,  nnd  condiiiii'S 
five  ii'iles  farJher  over  a  bed  ul' selilstose  limestone, 
to  (he  villap;e  of 
8— j)3     Sackers  JIarlmv. 

At  Hie  thvv.  I  IravelhMl  in  this  quarter,  (lie  p!i!)!ic  stage 
stopped  al  AValertowii,  and  travellers  were  obliged  to  liireeae- 
I'iages  IVoiu  Individuals.  My  eoiupan^-  and  nivscH'  were  able 
(o  proenre  only  open  wa;;j:«ns  ;  and  as  disappointment  or 
kj\y  oilier  kind  of  nii"^'*!  <iiiit  s«  Idoin  eonies  unattended,  the 
moment  we  set  out  fi  ,  -  i\  .  -rtown,  commeneed  a  heavy 
and  eold  rain,  wliieh  eon.  ^.iied  ' '  fall  in  torrents  during  our 
journey  of  twelve  miles  to  Saeket's  Harbor,  where  we  ar- 
rived ehilly,  wet  .and  huup;ry,  at  a  little  after  9  P.  M.  The 
village  affords  very  good  entertainment,  and  its  eheer  was 
never  niueli  more  welcome  than  to  the  cavalcade  of  vhich 
I  made  a  part.  , 

Yours  sincerelv. 


-»ss»!^«i* 


LETTER  VI, 


i^^i 


SacJ^el's  Harbor,  Jlaij  12///,  iSl8, 
Dear  Sir, 

Riiow-NviLi.E  and  Saeket's  Harbor,  but  particularly 
the  latter,  have  gained  both  in  extent  end  celebrity  by  the 
late  war  with  (Ireat  Britain.  'J'he  residence  of  the  land  and 
naval  forces  of  the  United  Slales  have  bt-en.  an«l  eonfinrie  fo 
be  of  great  advantages  to  (he  ciiizeus  ol  K.'icket'x  Harbor. 
This  town  stands  upon  the  soudi-west  side  of  the  bay,  ]\.  lat. 


LET.    VI.] 


SACKET's  HA17.B011. 


M 


4.3",  56*.  W.  long.  76".  from  London,  or  1*.  cas(  of  Washing- 
ton city.     The  hay    and  harbor  arc  bodi  well  si(iia((Ml  for 
shfher  and  dtTence.     Il  is  in  some  lucasurp,  land  locked  by 
two  large,  and  sonic  smaller  islands,  standing  in  (he  mon(h 
of  (he  bay  eight  miles  distant  (o  (he  west,  from  the  village. 
Chaumont   bay,  is  an   embranchment  of  the  same  sheif(  of 
water  which   forms  (he  harbour  below  do  mouth  of  J]Iack 
river.     Chaumont'  bay   does  no(  contain  as  good  anchorage^ 
nor  does  (he  posidon  of  its  shores  render  it  so  favourable  a 
«ite,  eidier  as  a  naval.  mili(ary,  or  commercial  depot  as  the 
bay,  now  known  as  Sackcl's  Harbor.     The  latter  is  perhaps 
one  of  the  best  situations   in  (he  world  for  ship  building.     A 
narrow  and  low  crescent  of  land  extends  from  the  lower  cx- 
tremi(y  of  (he  village,  and  forms  an  inner  and  outer  harbour, 
the  latter  within   (wo  fathoms  of  (he  shore  has  depth  ol   .a- 
ter  for  (he  largest  ships  of  the  line,  (hat  can  he  formed.  'Ihi 
vessels  can  be  framed  on  nearly  a  level  Avith  the  water,  and 
launched  w  ith  the  greatest  ease.     The  depth  of  water  con- 
tinues (o  (he  mouth  of  Black  river,  near  wliich  another  very 
exec  lent  position  exists  for  the  construction  of  jjhip  ,  either 
of  war  or  commerce.     In  each  of  those  places  of  sliip  archi- 
tecture, now  lie  tlj^  hull  of  a  first  rate  man  of  war.     One  of 
vhich,  at  Saekct's,  (he  New-Ouleans,  I  have  seen.    Be- 
fore seeing  this  enormous  vessel,  1  had  no  idea  of  (he  im. 
inensi(y  of  ship  building.     Under  her  stern,  I  really  felt  a 
sentiment  of  awe,  when  by  an  upward  glance,  I  received  the 
Avide  sweeping  and  towering  arch  of  her  swelling  sides.  I  had 
seen  the  Franklin  on  (he  stocks,   near  Philadelphia,  and  had 
been  frequently  on  board  of  that  vessel  after  she  was  launch- 
ed ;  I  had  been  on  board  of  the  Independence  in  the  harbour 
of  Boston  ;  and   had  also  seen  under  sail,    (he  British  7i, 
Plun(agenet.     All  ol'  those  sliips  are  large  according  to  their 
rate,  but  neither  gave  me  an   adequate  conception  of  the 
immensity  of  a  first  rate  ship  of  the  line,  a  conception  I 
never  formed,  until  I  traversed,   from  prow    to   stern,  tlie 
New-Orleans.     Sunk  beneath  die  surface  of  the  water,  the 


7i 


SACKUT  S    IIAUKOR. 


[let    VI. 


iN 


hull  of  a  lino  ui' ImKle  siiip  >vIion  lannolii'd,  is  coneralod* 
leaving  lo  view  hor  njorc  sliovv,  but  less  subsfanliul  upper 
ivoi'lvH,  but  while  on  the  stocks,  the  vuHtnesa  of  tltis  intended 
buttery  h  visible. 

I'he  uavul  ofnccrs  have  erected  nn  immense  frame  building 
over  the  New-OHeans.  Under  the  shelter  of  a  elose  root** 
Iter  timbei'S  mjII  lallier  gain  in  quality  tban  deteriorate 
by  time.  She  now  stands,  in  silent,  but  in  terrible  prepara- 
tion. A  stair  way  lends  from  her  prow,  to  the  highest  part 
of  her  stern,  ending  in  a  railed  baleony  with  seats,  from 
Avhieh  in  one  comprehensive  prospect  is  included,  the  to\vn, 
barracks,  harbour  and  adjacent  shores.  An  ascent  to  this 
singular  observatory^  is  amongst  the  most  interesting  treats 
awaiting  the  traveller  to  Saekct*8.  Captain  AVoolsey,  the 
commodore  upon  this  station,  exercises  the  most  laudable 
politeness  towards  strangers;  his  kindness  enabled  me  to 
enjoy  this,  which  is  one  of  the  most  gratifying  pleasures  of 
my  li(e. 

\L'vy  excellent  stone  barracks  stand  upon  the  bank  of  the 
bay,  about  400  yards  east  of  the  village.  The  ntau^rial  is  the 
blue  schistose  limeslone,  which  forms  the  base  of  (he  whole 
adjacent  neighborhood.  The  barracks  are  in  the  form  of 
three  si<les  of  a  parallelogram,  enclosing  the  approaches  on 
the  side  land,  the  fae^  towards  the  bay  is  open. 

IVlay  1  i-th.  I  had  the  double  pleasure  of  seeing  the  bar- 
racks, and  on  their  parade  a  review  given  in  honor  of  gen, 
Winlield  Scott,  Gens.  Brown,  Scott,  and  (heir  suits  were 
present.  The  troops  made  a  yovy  lespeclable  appearance* 
though  the  weather  was  unfavorable  for  (heir  evolutions. 

1  would  have  examined  more  extensively,  the  vicinity  of 
Sackel*s  Harbor,  but  the  season  was  so  continually  incle- 
ment during  my  stay,  that  my  excursions  were  necessarily 
very  limited. 

Yours  with  respect  and  esteem. 


r.ET.  VII.  I 


IIAMILTU.V. 


?* 


LF/n  Ell  Vll. 


Humillon,  Jlufj  iOth,  ISIS. 
Ueau  Sill, 

I  (Icpui'k'il  IVoin  Sai'UclN  llacbui*  on  Snturday  lust,  and 
reac!i(ul  this  iiei;;lil)orhuo<l  on  Sunday'  arici'iiouii.  Tlic  ueatli- 
tiv  during;  the  voya;*!.',  aHil  since  my  arrival,  has  been  very 
unfavorable  for  either  extensive  or  aeeuratu  observation.  I 
found  one  circumstance,  however,  rcuiarUabie  ;  the  season  i^ 
much  more  forward  below  tiian  above  the  Thousand  Islands. 
Fj^ni  Sackel*s  Harbor  to  the  entrance  into  the  St.  Lawrence, 
the  shores  presenled  all  the  desolation  of  winter  ;  the  bircli 
^vas  the  only  forest  tree  that  indicated  approaching  spring. 
This  backwardness  continued  until  we  passed  the  Thousantl 
Islands  ;  below  which,  though  advancing  northward,  an  evi- 
tlent  change  was  visible.  The  sugai^  tree,  billow,  birch,  and 
many  shrubs  and  other  vegetables,  were  in  considerable  ad- 
vance. The  fields  on  the  Canada  shore,  from  the  greatci* 
exposure  to  the  sun,  were  more  advanced  than  those  oppo- 
site, in  New-York. 

I  have  now  seen,  and  navigated  part  of  the  surface  of  the 
two  most  majestic  rivers  of  North  America  ;  and  as  far 
as  1  have  observed,  no  two  streams  on  earth  atford  features 
of  more  marked  contrast.  Before  visiting  Its  banks,  1  had 
always  considered  the  St.  Lawrence  as  commencing  oppg- 
tiite  Kingston  ;  but  the  current  is  not  peieeptible,  until  with' 
in  about  ten  miles  altove  this  village.  In  many  places  the 
I'lver,  as  it  is  improperly  called,  is  four  or  live  miles  wide, 
and  chequered  with  islands,  of  infinite  variety  of  shape  and 
size.  In  fact,  it  is  a  continuation  of  Lake  Ontario  ten  ol* 
twelve  miles  below  Ogdensburg,  where  the  true  St.  Law- 
rence begins  to  ilow. 

On  leaving  Sackct's  Harbor,  tlie  adjacent  sHorcs  oPthe 
main,  and  tliose  of  the  islands,  aiv  low,    and  coinnost'd  of 

G 


nil  I' II    ST.    T,\V»KEXIK. 


[i.ET.    Vll. 


\vlia(  in  p;ro;:»nosfle  |jin;;naf:;r,  is  called  llot'(/  limestone,  ail- 
iiiixod  w'liU  animal  i>Mi\iu>.  'I'ito  Ixirdci'  of  iltc  lake  \»  uni- 
roriniv  luv.  not  Iiriii;^  olcviilcd  aliovc  ilio  vatci'  more  lliiiii 
lliire  or  foiii'  I'crl  ;  the  dchris  iliroMii  up  bv  titc  a('ll<iii  of  ihr 
fake,  are  rounded  ]m  hides  (d*  limeslone.  Midi  a  very  lew 
1ra};menls  of  some  »»tlier  kiiul  ol'  sfdnr.  'Ilie  limiier,  sugar 
tree,  pine,  linden,  <'Im,  oak.  (t»o  or  three  speeies,  ihiMij^h 
«earee) — bireli,  arul  heeeli  ;  soil  extr«^nielv  le/tile.  Wlien 
at  Home  distanee  IVom  the  shore,  the  hi^'h  liilln  near  Ihn 
source  of  DIaek  ri\er,  and  between  I'lieu  and  Os\>ego,  are 
Keen  far  inland. 

This  unirormiiy  rensains  \s\i\i  hut  little  Interruption,  until 
the  entranw  of  St.  Lanreuee  :  here  the  islands  are  many 
of  them  thirty  or  forty  feet  elevated  ahove  the  water.— 
\Vhat  is  ealled  the  'i'housand  IshiUils,  seems  to  he  a  j;ra- 
nite  ehain  uhich  erosses  the  river,  and  divides  its  bed  into 
n  maze,  intricate  beyond  imnj;inati(>n  ;  a  seene  more  savage, 
rude,  and  wild,  does  not  p(  rhaps  any  v. here  exist  on  earth. 
The  plueid  ^nd  most  purely  limpid  water,  redects  the  bro- 
ken rocks,  and  the  few  trees  and  sluubs  tliat  rise  amid 
iheir  fractnn  d  rii«n«i  ?'»o  human  habitation  appesirs,  to  en- 
Jiven  for  an  instant  this  picture  of  eternal  waste.  Passing 
iliis  region  of  silent  desolation,  a  fairy  scene  opens  ;  a  scene 
that  to  me  was  the  more  di  light fu!,  because  unexpected. 
AVherc  the  Thousand  Islands  terminate,  the  river  opens  first 
into  a  kind  of  bay,  and  then  in  two  or  three  miles  again  con- 
tracts ;  the  shore  rising  on  each  bank  by  a  gentle  acclivity, 
presents  a  W)untry  I  have  never  before  seen  equalled,  in  res- 
pect either  to  soil  or  situation.  The  Ohio,  beautiful  as  are 
Its  banks,  affords  in  all  its  extent,  nothing  comparable  (o 
the  hanks  of  St.  Lawrence,  from  the  U'housand  Islands  to 
this  place.  The  Canada  sitle  is  by  far  the  best  cultivated, 
and  as  I  have  already  remarked,  possesses  the  advantages 
of  more  exposui'c  to  the  sun.  For  many  miles  the  margin 
of  this  river  appears  like   a  well   cullivufcd  garden.     Ihe 


I    ■ 


LET.    VII.] 


llAMILTOy. 


rs 


American  or  L'.  S.  Hliorr,  rxhibits  rn;>I<l  iinprovcinrnf,  ninl 
Ogdonshurgli  and  lliis  place  uir  Hourisliiii;;  new  villager. 
I  will  write  yon  more  at  large  ««liortlv.  Adieu  Tor  the  pre- 
sent 


Jifdil  'M)lh,  1818. 
Aftrh  rnclosliij;  (lie  within,  anil  returning  to  gup  camp. 
Major  Fraser  arrived,  in  the  evening.  I  acconijianitil  him 
10  thi!4  village  to-da^,  and  finding  that  my  letter  was  still  on 
hand,  I  opened  it,  to  convey  to  yon  and  Mrs.  Darhy,  tie  la- 
test news  of  my  proceedings,  den.  Porter  is  not  yet  aiiived, 
hut  no  doubt  will  in  two  or  three  da^s.  The  principal  sur- 
veyor on  the  side  of  Great  Britain,  has  not  arrived,  hut  is 
hourly  cx|>ccted.  We  will,  perhaps,  commence  business  on 
the  boundary  line,  in  the  ensuing  week. 

The  season  continues  unpleasant,  and  thrugh  rain  does  not 
fall  in  any  great  quantities,  it  is  rrequent.  The  rirer  St. 
Lawrence  is  about  two  feet  perpendicular  above  its  ordina- 
ry level,  and  slowly  rising,  and  w  ill  no  doubt  fall  as  slowly. 
Notwithstanding,  however,  the  chilly  air  produced  hy  so 
much  moisture,  sjiri!!;;,  advances  daily,  and  promises  &  sea- 
son more  pleasant.  11i«  atmosphere,  and  the  present  state 
of  vegetation,  have  a  remarkable  resemblance  to  similar  pho 
nomena  in  lower  Louisiana,  early  in  March.  From  what  I 
have  seen,  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  June  and  ,Tuly  nre  here, 
as  every  w  hero  else  in  Xorth  America,  the  most  sigreeable 
months  in  the  year.  " 


re 


u6l*knsuui'.(;h. 


[let.  Vlll 


LETTER  Vlll. 


m 


. '  ■)' 


Ogdcushursli,  June  28, 1818. 

Yrti  have,  uo  iloubt,  seen  in  lh«  puhlie  jirinls  sonic  s(ale- 
inenls  re:. peeling  a  man  of  tlie  name  of  Gonrlay,  wlio  is  now 
makings  poli(ical  (our  (hruugh  the  Canadas.  The  dajK  be- 
Jbie  jeslerday,  a  (ounsliip  meeting  waseulled  directly  oppo- 
tsitc  our  eamp,  >vhieh  terminated  in  a  riot,  in  whieh  Mr. 
<jeurhty  was  severelj^'  heaten.  1  have  not  been  able  to  learn, 
vitliany  eertainty,  vhat  ohjcet  (liis  man  has  in  view ;  no 
4louI)t,  however,  bat  more  is  meant  llian  meets  the  eye.  lie 
is  not  long  from  England.  It*. any  symptoms  cf  revolution 
shoutl  appear  in  these  piovinces,  the  exeiting  eause  must  be 
in  Euroju'.  Nei'dier  the  population  or  position  oi'the  coun- 
try, are  suittd  to  eontend  \\i(h  the  lirilish  Government,  un- 
less the  otlu'!'  parts  of  the  empire  were  also  in  a  revolution- 
ary state. 

'I'lie  inhabitants  of  Canada  appear  to  be  very  happy  an(! 
i'i;r!leuted  with  tlieir  situation,  and  with  their  government 
generally.  >Vhat  they  eould  gain  by  a  revolution  in  the 
pi'eseiil  order  of  things,  I  must  eonfess  I  cannot  couipre- 
Jiend. 

The  commerce  carried  on  upon  the  Sf.  Lawrence  is  im- 
mensely greater  than  we  in  the  United  States  commonly  bu- 
lieve.  'l"l)e  single  article  of  lumber  must  employ  very  con- 
siderable numbers.  Rafts  are  passing  almost  constantly. 
Flour  and  many  other  ailieles  are  exported  to  a  t'cry  great 
amount.  The  entire  line  of  the  Canada  side  of  the  river 
from  Montreal  and  even  from  Quebec,  is  well  peopled  and 
cultivated. 

•  Since  wi'iting  the  above,  I  have  seen  a  National  InteHigen- 
cer,  containing  some  notices  oi'  Gourlay,  aud  explaining 
V ho  he  is  and  from  whence  he  originated,  'jlie  substance 
of  this  eominimication  is  no  doubt  triic,  and  obliges  me  to 


POLITICAL. 


rr 


LET.    VIII.] 

believe  that,  as  I  have  hefure  stated,  there  is  more  tlinii 
meets  the  eye  in  (Ijis  hiisiiicss.  Ti;e  iiiagist rates  o<*  Upper 
Canada  are  iiiiich  at  a  loss  to  know  liow  they  oiig;ht  to  pro- 
ceed.* 


*  This  embaiTassment  does  not  seem  to  have  been  removed, 
as  will  be  seen  by  the  following  extracts  from  the  proceedings  ot' 
the  Colonial  legislature  of  Upper  Canada.  From  the  expressiojis 
used  by  the  governor  in  his  address,  he  has  viewed  the  operations 
of  Gourlay  :»j  a  serious  affair;  and  so  it  may  become,  if  any  very 
coercive  remedy  is  applied.  The  governor  and  his  council  ex- 
press respect  for  the  constitutional  right  of  petition,  and  they  aie 
correct  in  their  cautionary  proceedings  on  that  subject ;  any  open 
attempt  to  abridge  the  liberty  of  remonstrance  might  lead  to  a 
recurrence  to  the  last  resource  of  the  oppressed.  A  law  of^)r»- 
vention  may  operate  by  inflaming  tlie  malady  it  will  be  intendixl 
to  cure. 

Fork,  (U.  C.J  Oct.  20.  The  speech  of  the  governor,  sir  Pcri- 
grine  Maitland,  on  the  opening  of  the  parliament  of  Uppor  Cana- 
da, contains  the  following  paragraph  in  relation  to  the  conren- 
tion  : 

"  In  the  course  of  your  investigation  you  will,  I  doubt  not,  feel 
a  just  indignation  at  the  atlenipl  which  has  been  made  to  oi-icite 
discontent,  and  to  organize  sedition.  Should  it  appear  to  you 
that  a  conventioH  of  delegates  cannot  exist  without  danger  to  the 
constitution,  in  framing  a  law  of  prevention,  yonr  dispasjionatt' 
wisdom  will  be  careful  that  it  shall  not  unwarily  trespass  (>n  that 
sacred  right  of  the  subject  to  seek  a  redress  of  his  grievfuices  by 
petition." 

To  this  passage,  the  legislative  council  made  the  following  ro- 

"  We  shall  at  all  times  feel  a  just  indignation  at  every  attempts 
which  may  excite  discontent  or  organize  sedition,  and  if  it  shall 
appear  to  us  that  a  convention  of  delegates  cannot  exist  without 
danger  to  the  constitution,  in  framing  a  law  of  prevention,  we 
will  be  careful  that  this  shall  not,  unwarily,  tiospasson  the  sacred 
right  of  the  subject,  to  seek  a  redress  of  his  grieyiUices  by  peti- 
tion ' 


» 


To  the  same  paragraph,  the  commons  house  of  assembly  re- 
ply as  follows ;  , 

"  We  feel  a  Just  indignation  at  the  systematic  attempts  that 
have  been  made  to  excite  discontent  anU  organize  sedition  in 
this  happy  colony,  whilst  the  usual  and  constitutional  mode  ot 
appeal  for  real  or  supposed  grievances  has  ever  been  open  to  the 
people  of  tUis  province,  never  refused  or  even  appealed  to,  and 


i* 


78 


rol.lTICJAL. 


LF/r.    VII 1. 


My  op'UMhiHitv  d*  (iliservliigoilhor  (lie   jiulitieul  or  moral 
situiiiiuit   oi'  the   peo|>lc  of  Cana<la,  lias  been  too   limited  (u 
enablv'  iiic  to  loriu  n  very  eorreel  opinion  upon  Iheir  vievs  ; 
i)ul  iroui  uil  1  have  seen  or  liearil,  I  am  inclined  to  coiutider, 
that  the  temper  of  the  peo{)le  of  Canada  is  mueh  the  sauke 
us  lltat  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  colonies,  >\hieh  formed  the 
presimt  United  States,  previous  to  their  seeesi»ion  from  the 
parent  state.     AVhilst  Great  Britain,  continues  to  exercise 
luDderalion  to\^ar(ls  her  colonies  in  Canada,  so  long  her  pow 
i't  over  them  will  remain  unimpaired.     Any  exertion  of  au- 
llvority,   however,   that   Mill  in   any  manner  conipromit  the 
rights  of  the   Canadians,   "^vill   dissolve  the  spell,  that  pre- 
isuriptive  habit  has  formed  between  the  rulers  and  (he  ruled. 
"Ilie  history   of  (Jreat  Britain  uould   hardly  justify  an  ex- 
jM'ctation,  that  the  p(di(ieal  proceedings  of  i(s  government, 
>vi\l   be  conducted  prudently,  in  all  cases,  towards  any  peo- 
ple subjected  to  her  power.     We  would  risk  little  in  suppo- 
hiiig,  that  some  indiscreet  ministry  will  repeat  towards  Canada 
^iutiiskr  folly  to  thai  which  severed  from  the  motber  country 
the  L'liited  States.     As  matters  now  stand,  a  serious  ruptuiu 
cannot  be  expected,  nor  vould  be  pruuent  on  either  side. 

There  is  another  light,  in  which  (lie  people  of  Canada  of- 
fer an  interesting  spectacle  to  those  of  the  United  Stales; 
that  is  :a)  nppr<»aci.ing  union  or  rivalry.  In  ciihcr  case,  (he 
latter  peaj)le  w  ill  be  gieatly  afi'ected  by  the  former.  'Jhougli 
rfpealiing  the  same  language,  enjoying  a  similar  system  of 

deeply  lament  that  the  insidious  designs  of  one  factious  individual 
^h«^uld  have  succev.ded  in  diavsing  into  the  support  of  his  vile  ma- 
chinations, 6o  many  Iionrst  men  and  loyal  subjects  to  his  majes- 
ty. We  renipmher  that  this  fuvoied  land  wa^  sss-igned  to  our  fa- 
ihers  as  a  rcticav  fbr  siifli'i  nig  loyalty,  and  not  a  sanctuary  for 
sedition.  In  tl>e  course  of  our  investigation,  should  it  appear  lo 
this  house  that  a  conwntion  of  delegiUes  cannot  exist  wiliiout 
danger  lo  the  consti'-Jtion,  in  framing  a  law  of  piexenlion,  we 
will  carefully  dislinguith  between  such  convention  ind  the  lawful 
act  of  the  subject  in  petitioning  for  a  rcdiess  of  real  or  imaginary 
grievances,  that  sacred  jijjiil  uf  c'vciy  Driliili  euljott  which  v>v 
vhII  ever  hold  inviolable.'' 


UttT,    VIII.] 


rOLITlCAL. 


n 


'  same 


juiisjuMidrnee,  and  regulafod  in  Jhcir  piiwJc  condud  hy  thu 
sunic  relij^ion,  vet  in  polidcal  opiniun,  a  wine  ilifli'rcjiee  ex- 
ists between  .lie  Canadians  and  llie  people  ol*  t!»c  United 
States.  In  the  JiUtei*  eoiMitrv,  one  geneealii^n  has  passed 
away  since  the  nienioi'able  revolution,  that  {j;ave  them  na- 
tional hti'th  ;  the  men  that  now  act  upon  the  theatre  o"  pub- 
lic tttt'airs  have  been  bred  republicans,  and  sueh  they  are  in 
custom,  manners  and  lorm.  The  Canadians  have  been  edu- 
cated, at  the  same  time,  in  the  higiiest  tone  uf  royally.  One 
party  views  the  trappings  of  regal  pageantry  with  contenipt, 
the  other  considers  a(<(  fnpered  monarchy,  as  the  surest  gua- 
rantee of  private  rifi,ht.  Both  have  a  stiong  sense  of  liuman 
dignity,  both  consider  governments  instituted  lor  (he  protec- 
tion, and  not  oppression  of  society  j  both  feel  the  omor  put- 
ria  with  all  its  force. 

If  Canada  was  by  any  means  made  an  integral  of  the 
United  States,  and  like  liouisiana,  given  a  legislative  equali- 
ty in  the  national  councils,  the  force  of  the  preconceived 
opinions  of  its  inhabitants  would  soon  he  felt.  By  a  singu- 
lar inconsistency,  the  men  who  in  our  last  war  with  Great 
Britain,  were  anxious  foi*  a  conquest  of  Canada,  weie  also, 
as  a  party,  those  who  had  every  thing  to  fear  from  the  ac- 
complishment of  their  own  wishes.  In  case  of  union,  it  de- 
mands but  little  foresight  to  anticipate  the  consequence. 

Many  citizens  of  the  United  Slates  will  smile  at  the  sug- 
gestion of  rivalry,  between  their  country  and  Canada.  For- 
ty-three years  ago,  so  snided  the  mijiistry  of  (ireat  Britain. 
Tue  march  of  time,  and  the  developement  of  events,  have 
taught  the  administration  of  that  haughty  government,  a 
lesson  of  bitter  experience.  I  wisli  our  nation  may  profit, 
by  one  of  the  most  astonishing  events  in  Imntan  history;  an 
event  that  gave  it  a  naipeon  earth,  and  an  event  that  ougbt 
to  convince  the  world,  how  iittlc  dependanee  there  is  in  the 
stability  of  coniparalive  power.  Every  ^ear  gives  me  mos'c 
and  more  seeptlciism,  respecting  worldly  wisdom.     Accident 


*9 


''i 


■.  ¥^4 


m 


■,   ..-.;.i.'.'. 


80. 


rOLITICAL, 


[Lwr.  >  ai 


l!i.&r>. 


hcciiis  (o  <iis(m!)  -v.a]  inilucncc,  if  not  re^^ulalc  llic  progress 
o'l*  nations.  * 

'/  |j^  world  at  (liis  nioinont,  presents  \cry  neaily  the  same 
tf'-vldence  lliat  has  hven  f^iven  h,v  every  eonntry  and  every 
sige,  that  uii^doni  and  I'oiesi^ht  hut  rarely  liave  niueh  inflii- 
rnce*  in  prodneing  extensive  revolutions.  So  much  depends 
upon  eif'cunislisnees,  heyond  all  our  powers  of  ealeuIalion» 
that  in  almost  every  instance  of  human  history,  the  events 
liave  hecn  pi'o<hietive  of  consiTjuenees,  directly  contrary  to 
]M'edietion.  A  few.  and  a  very  limitcu  few,  have  ever  pos- 
sessed talent  enough,  to  form  correct  estimates  of  the  reat 
Rearing  of  great  commotions  among  mankind.  Kifects  arc 
i'ontinuitii,\  misiaken  for  causes. 

If  we  dale  tiie  eivili/aiton  of  those  nations  from  whom  wc 
sire  desceisdcd,  and  from  w  horn  we  have  derived  our  arts  and 
opinions,  from  tiie  discovery  of  (he  alphahet,  there  will  be 
4>\hihi<ed  a  |)eriod  of  about  tiiirly  centuries  of  accumulated 
<'xperience.  Precepts  have  been  deduced  fiom  example, 
vith  how  little  fruit  the  present  moral  condition  of  man.  is  a 
melancholy  proof.  'J 'here  are  many  irrefi-agible  reasons, 
liowevev,  to  convince  an  unprejudiced  mind,  that  this  appa- 
3rnt  hopeless  depression  of  the  human  intellect,  lias  been 
])roduced  from  causes  ihat  admit  removal.  '1  he  exalted  ele- 
Taiinnof  the  human  understanding,  in  «'"  minciplesof  nrany 
^;ciences,  would  warrant  the  juduclioaj  ?h  U  if  ever  the  most 
Aaluablc  of  all  sciences,  liHppiness,  could  be  duly  compre- 
Itended,  the  means  lo  seciire  it  would  become  attainable. 
Hitherto  we  have  been  taught  to  consider  our  social  state, 
s»s  a  rj'mcdiless  scene  of  suttering.  A>e  have  bartered  the 
<ei'tainty.  of  happine!«s  on  earth,  for  lessons  of  metaphysics, 
upon  the  principles  of  which  no  two  of  our  teachers  have 
,'  ver  been  of  accord.  >Ve  have  giveq  the  sweat  of  our  brow* 
i(»  ilie  most  idle  and  useless  of  our  species,  and  have  received 
hiripes  and  contumely  in  exchange.  AVe  have  divided  our 
i'4'tentlf>n  between  the  wretchedness  of  the  thousand  and  th« 
j^lillci   "i^  the  cue.     Oui   ears  have  been  assailed  with  the 


r,BT.    Ylfl."' 


roLITICAl., 


8il 


cries  of  i;'.;:  iTor  and  slavery,  op  i'  galcd  witli  'he  orgies  of 
piinipered  luxury. 

Let  no  one  deny  the  truth  of*  •  i«e  above-  and  bring  the 
United  States  as  an  example  of  its  fallacy.  The  people  »r 
the  United  States  form  a  very  small  |)art  of  the  human  fam-' 
ily,  and  are  themselves  far  from  being  improved  to  die  ut- 
most, or  ahsolutehj  sceured  against  retrogradation.  They 
nevertheless  afibrd  evidence  of  an  entire  cliangc  in  opinion, 
a  change  pgainst  which  sceptres  and  mitres  will  in  vain  eon- 
tend.  Europe  has  by  no  means  recovered  from  the  conse- 
quences of  the  fall  of  the  Roman  Kmpire.  AiQiedngas  it 
nr.iy  be,  it  is  a  fact,  there  exists  not  one  well  coalesced  gov- 
«.'rnment  in  Europe,  except  Franc* .  No  other  political  as- 
sociation, but  is  composed  of  shreds  of  heterogeneous  ma- 
terials, either  in  a  state  of  anarchy  or  forced  connexion. 
^Nothing  bas  ajipearcd  to  shew  that  tJie  monarchs  of  the 
day  have  any  adequate  conception  of  producing  any  better 
slate  of  things. 

It  may  not  be  irrelevant  to  our  subject,  to  view  the  nations 
of  Euro|)eas  they  now  stand,  in  relative  numbers.  To  gain 
any  philosopliical  result,  language  must  be  the  line  of  di- 
vision and  comparison;  it  is  the  only  durable  mark  of  dis- 
tinction. At  this  time  there  are  in  Europe  about  thirty  mil- 
lions who  speak  French ;  thirty  millions  who  speak  Ger- 
man and  its  dialects ;  between  tbirty-flve  and  forty  millions 
wIiQ  ^peak  Selavonian  and  its  dialects;  twenty  millions  who 
nse  the  Italian  ;  ilfleen  millions  of  English  ;  about  an  equal 
number  of  Spaniards  and  of  modern  Cireeks.  The  Turks, 
(hough  in  Europe  fur  upwards  of  330  years,  are  still  foreign- 
ers,  and  few  in  number. 

It  is  singular  that,  except  the  French,  none  of  the  nations 
of  Eui'ope  are  formed  out  of.  and  contain  masses  who  speak 
the  same  langtjuge.  The  poliiical  divisiotis  have  arose  from 
blind  chance,  or  the  people  have  been  driven  together  by  vi- 
olence. The  art  of  government,  as  directetl  towards  it  on- 
ly legiliinate  ends,  the   security,  pioteelion,   and  instruction 


41 


:1 


'•a!»ii 


a'^ 


POLITICAL. 


[let.    VIII. 


of  (he  gieut  body  ol*  nations,  is  not  even  in  its  infancy  ;  as  a 
science  it  exists  not.  This  is  a  bold,  but  unioi'tunatcl^  true 
usbcrlion.  The  feudal  system  reigns  in  all  its  pristine 
istrengtli;  as  far  as  the  abstract  scienee  of  governniint  is  con- 
cerned. 

Then;  appears  to  have  bwn  a  curious  mixture  of  supersti- 
tion and  ferocity  in  the  character  of  the  northern  nations, 
vho  overcame  the  lloman  Empire.  Either  employed  in 
acts  of  cruelty,  or  piety— -building  churches  or  castles.  From 
this  bent  of  the  human  mind,  has  arisen  the  principle,  that 
produced  the  present  corporate  establishments  of  Europe. 
Every  thing  bends  eitlier  to  religion  or  war.  Schools,  celle* 
ges,  and  academies,  arc  directed  elthei*  by  soldiers  or  prit'sts. 
The  revenues  of  the  various  states,  are  expended  on  scheutes. 
of  ambition,  or  paid  to  men  >vho  are  worse  than  idle. 

AVhoIc  nations,,  the  i^anie  in  language,  customs,  manners, 
and  dress,  arc  kept  artfully  in  a  stale  of  hostility  ;  such  as 
the  Ciermaus,  Italians,  uiid  now  the  English.  Nations  wha 
differ  in  cMivy  rt^ipcet,  have  no  common  interest,  are  stran- 
gers lo  eacJi  other,  and  wlio  by  a  dilTerenfi*  of  language,  are 
prevented  from  fo:  iiiing  any  tie  of  sympathy,  are  united  un- 
der one  monarch  j  bueii  arc  the  Germans,  Bohemians,  and 
llungurjians  ;  sueh  are  the  Italians  and  Germans  ;  sueli  aro 
(he  Dutch  and  Ik'Igians  ;  such  the  English,  Irish,  and 
Scotch;  sueh  are  the  fjissiutis,  Poles,  and  Finns,  and  suelt 
are  the  Turks  and  modern  Gre«'ks. 

'  With  sueh  systems  of  government,  can  any  wonder  be  ex- 
cited that  hatred  and  eoutempl  should  prevail  vM-vy  where. 
The  people  arc  kipi  in  a  ni.ite  ot  profound  ij^noraiiee  of 
their  rights,  iu^^'c  loif.:^  ;J»uudom(l  aii}  eoni-eption  of  as^el•ling 
that,  for  theiij  wcrv-  aii  g«vernm<*n(s  instituted,  and  by  them 
ought  all  governm;als  to  be  administered.  A  liaughty 
aristocracy,  and  cringing  hirrurehy,  possess  the  execution  ancl 
fruits  of  povviM*;  the  creator  of  the  goods  of  life,  the  farm- 
er and  artisun,  depresiicd,  wretched  ami  poor,  have  retained 


LET.   Ylll.] 


POLITICAL. 


88 


the  possession  of  scarce  enougli  of  the  (hings  (he)'  (heinsclve» 
have  made,  lo  preserve  existence. 

'Jlietruth  of  this  picture  cannot  be  denied.  It  may  seem 
difficult  to  account  for  such  gross  ignorance,  such  apathy* 
and  such  furheavance  in  society  ;  but  when  the  sources  from 
>vhi»b  the  instruction  of  the  people  are  examined^  the  r^e- 
iiomenon  of  their  degradation  vanishes.  'J'hat  German 
should  be  arrayed  against  German  ;  lt;i)ian  against  Italian, 
and  English  against  Englisli,  and  that  the  most  enlightened 
nations  of  the  globe  in  m»ny  uther  respects,  should  in  the 
juost  important  of  all  their  concerns,  moral  government,  be 
still  in  the  most  barbarous  stale,  cannot  exci(e  asfoni^hment, 
when  it  is  known  huw  iiitlc  has  been  dune  to  instruct,  and 
how  much  to  brutifv  man. 

A  few,  an  invaluable  few  have  existed  in  Europe,  who 
have  labored  silen.ly  to  raise  the  species  from  their  wretched 
ijtate,  have  endeavored  to  inspire,  men  with  ideas  of  their  own 
dignity,  and  have  been  rewarded  with  perseeution  tVouj  the 
rulers,  and  neglect  from  the  ruled.  Speci.lators,  innovalurs, 
infidels,  and  all  the  vocabulary  of  abuse,  ba>e  been  la^iblu-d 
upon  their  heads  ;  even  the  word  philosophy  itself,  has  been 
changed  to  an  epithet,  and  appiiid  to  the  most  wise  and  be- 
nevolent plans. 

The  struggle  between  good  sense  and  power,  has  continu- 
ed with  daily  increasing  violence,  since  the  invention  ofprinl- 
ing.  How  this  contest  is  to  terminate,  it  is  now  difllcitll  lo 
predict  ;  but  such  is  thepowerl'iil  iiid  ;,^iven  to  reason  by  the 
press,  that  the  best  result  may  be  hojxd.  The  French  rev- 
'ilution  vas  nutliing  more  than  an  effect  of  litis  luag  opposi- 
tion of  prescriptive  usurpation,  again^^t  a  relin(]!!ishnient  of 
power,  'i'hose  who  >iew  the  triun)ph  of  despolism  as  co; >- 
plete,  know  lillle  (»!'  human  nature,  and  less  of  the  ordinary 
course  of  thing-  in  the  world.  Every  s^ui|»loni  evinces  au 
approaching  sl.u'm,  of  perhaps  tenfold  more  violenc*',  tliiiii 
the  one  so  lately  abated.  That  :he  po(«'ntates  of  Euro];e 
>*  ill  be  cojvpclled  to  acce»l<'  to  llie  wishes  of  their  suijects,  and 


8^ 


POLITICAL. 


[let.  VIII. 


parliciimto;  vadiuv  than  engross  (lie  sovereign  nutlioritj,  or 
ugaiu  defend  (heir  antique  rule  hy  the  sword,  is  very  cer- 
tain. Whether,  after  long  and  reiterated  abortive  attempts^ 
the  gross  of  society  Mill  eroneh  to  an  Asiatic  principle  of 
divine  right,  or  succeed  in  forming  more  rational,  and  of 
course  more  stable  foims  of  government,  >vill  be  soon  de- 
termined. 

Upon  th'is  approaching  Aviiir]\^  ind,  the  people  of  the  United 
States  look  \vith  their  accustomed  indifference,  lil tie  aware 
)io\v  much  their  own  affuirH  must  be  influenced  by  the  issue. 
Living  under  a  form  of  government,  having  many  of  the 
most  seductive  features  of  the  feudal  system,  wc  aiv  far 
from  having  any  other  guarantee  than  our  own  |n-udence, 
against  the  ordinary  ill  effects  that  have  been  e.\perienced  in 
every  instance,  where  that  system  has  been  tried.  In  our 
Mtate,  and  confederated  gnvernmenis,  we  are  feudal  in  a  high 
degree.  If  not  prevented  hy  a  train  of  extremely  fortunale 
events,  our  posterity  must  one  day  find,  that  neither  similar- 
ity of  language  or  opiuiun,  can  sciiire  them  against  the  eon- 
bcqiiences  of  anihidun,  ]U'ide  and  violence.  Ueligious  or 
moral  precepts,  are  hut  feeble  barriers  against  the  evil  pro- 
pensities of  the  hiiiiian  heart.  Me  liavc,  however,  two  insu- 
perable adv;  wtages,  that  do  more  for  our  security  lh;<n 
our  so  miieh  uoasled  in.slitutions  : — the  PR L'^ 8 S  and  FREE 
SUFFRAliE.  'W  hilsl  legi-jlutors  and  rulers  can  be  drag- 
f^ed  before  society,  and  adjudged  without  evasion,  so  long 
vili  our  instil  at  ions  remain  inviolate,  and  their  provisions 
applied  to  the  intended  j)urpose  ;  but  when  the  right  of  suf- 
frage is  relrenelu'd,  and  when,  if  so  deplorable  an  event 
ever  does  occur  in  our  history,  our  in'csa  is  subjected  to  the 
control  of  rulers,  then,  in  crimen,  deception,  pride,  and  de- 
gradation :  in  indolence  and  tears,  our  posterity  will  continue 
to  exhibit  the  same  disgusting  picture  that  human  nature  has 
afforiled.  since  its  acts  have  been  fii-st  put  on  record. 

'J'here  now  exists  two  I'^ngiish  nations,  who  are,  with  all 
their  moral  resemblance,  poliiically  separate,  and  opposed 


lET.  VIII.] 


POriTICAI. 


sg 


to  each  other  in  vicMs  of  commerce  and  national  power  ; 
and  to  these  may  be  added  another,  in  Canada..  And  on 
this  continent,  may  also  be  repeated  the  violent  contention  of 
two  fragments  ot  a  congenerous  people.  AVhether  the  ri  val  ry 
or  Ibreed  miion,  would  be  the  greatest  source  of  mutiial  in- 
jury, can  scarce  be  made  a  question.  With  a  very  limited 
share  of  forbearance,  it  would  bo  infinitely  preferable,  foi' 
the  happiness  of  each  party,  to  remain  independent ;  and 
should  the  folly,  ambition,  or  cupidity  of  cither  or  both» 
involve  them  in  national  disputes,  the  transitory  evil  of 
war,  coukl  not  be  much  worse  than  that  of  perpetual  mis- 
trusty  the  necessary  consequence  of  a  connection  without  uni- 
ty of  sentiment. 

Canada,  with  the  other  British  possessions  in  North  A- 

merica,  exhibit,  in  one  respect,  a  singular  contrast  with 
their  former  colonies  along  the  Atlantic  coast.  At  the  mo- 
ment of  their  revolt,  the  thirteen  original  states  of  our  con- 
federacy, extended  in  a  long  narrow,  and  very  accessible 
;strip,  nearly  parallel  to  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic  ocean: 
The  inhabited  parts  of  Cabotia,  or  British  North  America,'^ 
on  the  contrary,  presents  a  very  confined  and  unapproachable 
front  towards  the  ocean,  with  an  immense  line  winding  far 
into  the  interior  of  the  continent.  From  its  local  position, 
if  safe  from  an  attack  in  Hank,  a  much  less  force  would 
be  able  to  defend  Canada,  than  was  necessary  to  preserve 
the  inde  pendencc  of  the  United  States. 

Presenting,  in  common  with  the  United  States,  a  long r.nd 
apparently  an  exposed  and  weak  line  of  frontier,  yet  even 
on  that  side,  the  Canadas  have  been  found  very  defensible  ; 
but  in  front,  towards  the  Atlantic,  this  country  would  be  ex- 
tremely diflieult  to  attack  successfully.  No  doubt  the  day 
is  approaching,  when  a  trial  must  be  made,  how  far  this  peo- 
ple are  capable  of  maintaining  their  claim  to  nationality. 

*  Caljotia,  in  honor  of  Cabot  ihc  original  discoverer,  is  the 
very  apjiropriate  luime  given  by  llio  Britisii  geographers,  to  the 
vast  regions  claimed  upon  this  tontinent  by  the  l^ritish  crown. 


hr  'j 


HO 


roLTTICAl.. 


(JLET.  MVf. 


^^^Tl 


5  ,  't-J, 


»l 


.:     n 


You  will  nnturuDv  feci  suinc  surpri^ic,  at  Oic  \Hi\c  notice  I 
Ituve  takoii  of  (lie  circuiiislance  of  the  divei'sity  of  nalionH. 
M'liicii  coniposc  the  population  of  (he  Cunadas.  In  my  opin- 
ion,  (iiut  diversity  i»  not  of  niueh  consequence*  in  (he  view 
yvc.  are  (akin^  of  (hin  coun(ry.  The  descendants  of  (he 
French  do,  particularly  in  LoMcr  Canada*  form  a  large  part 
of  (he  mass  oi'  society,  hut  in  Upper  Canada,  and  the  east- 
ern provinces  of  IV'ova  Scotia  and  New  Brunswick,  the  ofl- 
spring  or  natives  of  the  British  islands,  arc  more  numerous 
than  all  other  classes  of  society  taken  together  ;  and  in  all 
parts  of  the  British  colonies  in  this  quarter,  are  not  only  the. 
ruling  hut  the  efllcirnt  |)cople.  At  prescut  the  French  arc 
geri'^^rally  passive,  though  no  doubt  in  a  great  measure  dispo- 
sed, if  any  probability  of  success  oiTered,  to  oppose  in  con- 
cert with  the  other  inhabitants,  the  British  government,  and 
will  follow  the  current  of  events,  ilow  as  it  may.  Active 
and  gallantly,  as  did  the  French  of  l/ouisiana  conduct  them 
selves  during  the  British  invasion  of  that  country,  and  with 
all  their  habitual  hatred  of  the  British  name,  1  saw  enough 
to  convince  me,  (hat  their  conduct  would  have  been  very 
passive,  had  not  gen.  Jackson  acted  with  uncommon  inspi- 
ring energy.  Indeed,  if  I  know  the  French  character  cor- 
rectly, the  very  striking  contrast  it  often  exhibits,  between 
extraordinary  decisjon  and  passivcness,  is  not  confined  iv  (he 
descendants  of  that  nation,  in  either  Louisiana  or  Canada. 

Detesting  as  I  do  all  conquest,  not  rendered  im|M!ratively 
necessary  for  self  security,  I  would  always  consider  an  at- 
tempt on  the  part  of  the  United  States  to  conquer  Canada, 
as  in  the  highest  degree  impolitic  ;  and  in  any  incorporation, 
without  the  free  consent  of  the  people,  excessively  unjust. 
It  is  a  conquest,  however,  that  the  British  officers  seem  to 
consider  an  object  of  national  policy,  on  the  part  of  our 
government.  Mr.  Bouchettc,  in  his  work  on  the  Clanadas. 
pageii)!.  obserres  that  *<  The  views  of  the  United  States, 
**  with  j'csjjeet  (o  Canada,  have  been  too  unequivocally  de- 
"  mmslratcd  to  leave  a  shadow  of  uncertainty,  as  to  their 


'i  ■ '  ■ 


LET.   IX.] 


T»(>tlTltAt. 


87 


<<  uUimatc  ohjenl  ;  ami  us  (he  prcscrviUion  of  (hiit  valiiablo 
**  coluii^'  iias  always  been  deemed  worthy  of  our  strenuouH 
«  eirortSf  \vc  cannot  he  too  uiiich  on  our  guard  against  the 
"  slow  working  poliej",  hy  which  that  government  endeavors 
*<  to  eompass  its  ends,  or  too  lieedrul  in  adopting  precaution- 
*<  ary  measures  to  avert  a  threatening  danger,  however  re- 
«  mote  it  may  at  first  appear." 

Bouchctte  is  a  rcsiieetablc  writer,  and  a  native  of  Canada ; 
hcf  it  appears,  lias  been,  however,  either  deceived,  as  it  res- 
pects the  real  views  of  the  United  States,  or  he  charges  our 
government  with  what,  if  true,  would  be  gross  folly.  Cana- 
da, with  all  its  loyalty,  has  been  rather  a  charge  than  a  ben- 
efleiary  appendage  to  Great  Britain  ;  to  the  republic<in  in- 
stitutions of  the  United  States,  it  Mould  be  a  dead  weight. 
Our  empire  is  already  too  extensive  to  bo  easily  governed,  if 
the  whole  surface  was  well  peopled.  An  accession  of  terri- 
tory with  reluctant  or  refractory  citizens,  would  be  worse 
ihun  i\n  unprofitable  incumbrance.     Adieui 


W«* 


':ti 


LETTER  IX. 


Ogiknshurghf  Jnhj  irf/j,  1S18. 
1>EAR  Sir, 

The  Commissioners  are  advancing  with  the  survey  of  the 
SL  Lawrence  river,  and  its  inlands,  in  ort  "r  (o  designate  the 
boundary  line,  between  the  United  States  and  Upper  Canada. 
The  operations  of  last  year  terminated  about  a  mile  above 
Ogden's  Island,  opposite  the  village  of  Hamilton,  where  wc 
commenced  this  season,  and  have  progressed  to  a  little  above 


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Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


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RIV£R   ST.  l.iWUKNCE. 


[let.  Ix. 


r  )•' 


this  village.  The  survey  is  conducted  with  great  precision, 
but  with  a  consequent  slowness,  that  is  extremtly  iuuonipal- 
ible  with  luy  views,  and  induces  nie,  together  with  some  oth- 
er reasons,  to  quit  the  liusiness  and  proceed  on  a  tour  to  tl^ 
westward,  through  New-York,  Pennsylvania,  Oliio,  Michi- 
gan, and  Upper  Canada.  I  expect  to  set  out  in  the  ytcam- 
Boat  to-morrow,  on  my  way  to  Sacket's  Uarbor,  tmd  Buffa- 
lo, and  Detroit. 

I  have  already  mentioned  to  you,  in  a  former  conimuniea- 
tion,  that  the  St.  Lawrence,  properly  speaking,  eomnjences 
near  this  town,  as  above  this  place  a  very  slight  current  is 
perceptible.  I  have  been  engaged  in  surveying  the  Gallop 
rapids  and  islands,  at  the  head  of  which  the  strong  currents 
iirst  commences.  A  map  of  this  very  curious  group  is  en- 
closed, which  will  serve  to  exhibit  the  peculiar  eonstruclioii 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  islands. 

Whenever  I  attempt  a  general  or  detailed  description  of 
this  beautiful  river,  I  feel  the  difficulty  of  the  undertaking, 
from  its  dissimilarity  to  any  other  stream  wilh  which  you 
are  acquainted.  I  doubt  indeed,  if  it  has  any  near  ^.uirallel 
upon  our  globe.  Though  I  may  not  succeed  in  giving  yoit 
any  very  precise  conceptions  of  its  more  minute  features,  I 
hope  to  place  hefore  you  such  a  picture  of  its  general  physi- 
ognomy, as  will  enable  you,  with  your  accustomed  force  of 
fancy,  to  form  an  adequate  idea  of  its  great  outline.  Though 
in  compliance  with  the  common  mode  of  expression,  I  call 
Idle  Fi.  liawrence  a  river,  yet  according  to  the  principles  laid 
down,  \\hen  speaking  of  the  Hudson,  the  former  stream 
would  be  more  correctly  a  strait,  uniting  the  great  lakes  to 
the  Atlantic  ocean,  than  a  river,  in  the  strict  meaning  of 
that  term.  Since  my  arrival  on  the  boundary,  I  have  seve- 
ral times  had  arguments  with  different  members  of  the  com- 
mission, respcciing  the  comparative  volume  of  the  St,  Law- 
rence and  the  Mississippi  rivers.  In  n»y  statistics  of  Louis- 
iana, I  have  calculated  (he  quantity  of  water  discharged  by 
the  IMiisissljjp  :  I  shuil  now  for  your  satisfaction  institute  a 


Ix. 


LET.   IX.] 


# 


ST.   LAWREXCE   RIVEK. 


%9 


general  estimate  of,  and  comparison  lietweicn  tliosc  two  {^roai 
Nortli  Ameriuan  vivors.  J  liave  already  premised  that 
when  speaking  of  the  quantity  of  water  in,  or  land  drained 
by  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Lawrence  rivers,  all  the  country 
is  itieant,  which  is  watered  hy  theil*  tributary  branches. 

The  following  table  exhibits  the  area  of  the  diflferent  see- 
tiohs  of  country,  drained  by  the  St.  Lawrence* 

TABLE 

OF    THE    SUPERFICIES,   DRAINED    BY    THE    VALLEY   OF   THE   ST.    LAW- 
RENCE   RIVER. 


'J 


Region  lying  N.  W.  of  Lake  Superior, 
do.         nortli-east  of  do. 

North  of  Lake  Huron,  and  vvest  of 
the  sources  of  the  Otlawas  river, 

Peninsula  between  Lakes  Huron, 
Erie,  and  Ontario, 

North-west  of  St.  Lawrence,  below 
the  sources  of  the  Oltawas  river, 

Total  area  N.  W.  of  St.  Lawrence, 

Region  N.  E.  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
from  its  mouth  to  that  of  the  Rich- 
elieu,   .     -        -        -        - 

Triangle  included  between  Black,  St. 
Lawrence,  and  Richelieu  rivers, 

South  of  Lake  Ontario,  west  of 
Black  river. 

South-east  and  South  of  Lake  Erie, 
and  east  of  Maumee  river. 

Peninsula  of  Michigan, 

West  of  Lake  Michigan,  and  soiith 
of  Lake  Superior, 

Total  south-east  and  south-west,    - 

Area  of  Lake  Superior, 

Huron, 

Michigan, 

Erie,        -        -      - 

Ontario, 
Allowance  for  the  area  of  St.  Law- 
rence river,  and  the  smaller  lakes. 


Medial 
Leni;th. 
*00 
400 

Medial 
Breadth 
80 
80 

Area 
Sq.  Miles. 
34,000 
32,000 

200 

200 

40,000 

200 

80 

1 6,000 

700 

220 

154,000 

26f^.!>00 

500 

30 

25,000 

230 

Ho 

16,500 

200 

80 

1 6,000 

300 
250 

30 
150 

9,000 

37,500 

400 

300 
200 
270 
250 
180 

120 

100 

100 

50 

60 

40 

48,000 

ii2,uoa 

a            ■ 

418,000 

30,000 
20',000 
13,500 
15,000 
7,200 

\ 

1,500 

b7,2U(; 

li 

I:-:  -f   f.  f I 

ui  ■:  % 


I  ■i'm 


m 


Mm 


90 


MISSOURI   RIVEH; 

SUMMARY. 


[let.  IX, 


S(iuare  Miles. 
Total  area  north-west  ol"  St.  Lawrence  river,        266,(300 
Total  soulli-east  and  souih-wesl  of      do.         -       152,000 
Total  eovcied  with  water,        .         -         -  87,200 


Total  area  of  St.  Lawrence  valley,        -        -       603,200' 

TABLE 

OP    THE    SUPERFICIES,    DRAINED    I'.f    THE    3IlSSI6SiPri    AND 

TAUY    BUANCIIES. 


\'alley  of  Ohio,         -        -        - 
do.     of  llie  Mississippi  proper, 

above  the  mouth  of  iviissouii, 
do.     of  the  Missouri  and  its  con- 
fluents,       .         .        .        - 
do.     of  Arkansaw  river, 
do.     of  lied  lvi>er,         -        - 
Narrow  ship  cast  of  the  Mississip- 
pi, audbelo.v  ihe  mouth  of  Ohio. 
Vallevs  of  White  and   Jjt.  irancis 
rivers,         .         .         -        - 

Total  area  of  the  Mississippi  val- 
ley,         


Modirtl 
7U0 


750 

1330 
lUO 
lOUO 

400 

200 


Medinl 

Breadth. 

300 

300 

500 
100 
100 


ITS   TRIBU- 

Arcii 
Sfj.  Mile?. 
206,0U0 

225,000 

575,000 
110,000 
100,000 


70     28,000 


xiO^ 


50,000 


1,394,000 


Before  leaving  New-York,  and  when  employed  in  writing 
Jlie  Emigrant's  Guide,  1  carefully  measured  and  calculated 
the  respective  superlieies,  drained  hy  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
Mississippi  rivers,  the  former  came  so  near  to  500,000 
square  miles,  that  I  assnnted  that  area  in  round  numbers, 
re-nieasuring  the  same  stream  hy  section;,  the  result  is,  as 
you  perceive.  At  the  same  period  I  also  measured  the  Mis- 
sissipi,  and  found  i(s  area  varied  so  little  from  1,400,000 
squjH-e  miles,  that  I  assumed  that  number  as  sufficiently  ac- 
curate for  general  purposes.  Calculating  again  by  sections, 
I  found  1,394,000   square  miles.    From  these  various  esli- 


LET.    IX.] 


HIVr.R    ST.   LAWIIUNCE. 


91 


mates,  I  aui  confident  that  neither  of  these  surfaees  are  es- 
sentially incorrect,  us  iar  as  our  nmps  are  enliilcil  to  cou- 
Udcnce. 

The  outline  of  the  two  streams  are  respectively  as  fol- 
lows:  that  of  the  St.  L.iwrenee  .'?,5()0,  that  of  the  i^,lissis- 
sippi  5,fiOO.  Of  these  distances  the  two  rivers  have  inter- 
locking hranehes,  from  the  head  of  ihe  Allej^uny  Ijianch  of 
Oliio,  to  the  sources  of  the  lilississippi  and  Lake  Superior, 
which  followinj^  the  sinuosities  of  Iht  dividing  line,  stretch 
along  1,^00  miles. 

Rising  from  the  same  vast  tahle  laud,  and  having  such  ex- 
pended connexion,  it  is  surrlv  wortliy  of  remark,  that  n© 
two  rivers  on  earth  so  essenJisjIly  diJter  in  their  general 
features,  as  do  the  Mississippi  and  St.  liawrenee.  The  for- 
mer is  turbid,  in  many  parts  to  muddings,  tiie  latter  unequal- 
ly limpid.  One  river  is  composed  of  an  almost  unbroken 
idiain  of  lakes,  the  other  in  all  its  vast  expanse,  has  no  lakes 
4hat  strictly  deserve  the  name.  Annually,  the  Mississippi 
overleaps  its  bed  and  overwiiehns  the  adjacent  shores  to  a 
great  extent ;  an  accidental  rise  of  thiee  feet  in  the  course 
of  fifty  years,  is  considered  an  extraordinary  swell  of  the 
waters  of  St.  Lawrence  ;  this  circumstance  has  occurred 
<he  present  season,  for  tiic  first  time  wifliin  the  lapse  of  for- 
ty years  past.  The  Mississippi  (lowing  IVom  north  to  south, 
passes  through  innumerable  climes  ;  whilst  its  rival,  winding 
from  its  -ouree  in  u  oOuth-east  direction  to  near  X.  lat.  il, 
(urns  gradually  north-east,  and  again  flows  into  its  original 
climate  of  ice  and  sno'v.  The  Mississippi  before  its  final 
discharge  into  tise  gulpli  of  Mexico,  divides  into  a  number 
of  branches,  having  their  separate  egress  ;  tlje  St.  Law- 
rence ijuperceptibly  expands  to  a  wide  bay,  which  finally 
opens  into  the  gulph  of  the  same  name,  '^^riie  banks  of  the 
Mississippi  present  a  level,  scarce  rising  above  the  superior 
surface  of  that  stream  ;  those  of  the  S(.  liawrence,  by  a 
gentle  acclivity,  exhibit  the  opposing  sides  of  an  elegant  ba- 
sin.    Much  of  (he  surface,  watered  by  (he  Mississippi,  is  a 


9ti 


RIVEH    ST.   I.AWKENIE. 


[let.  IX. 


region  of  grass,  where  few  slirubs  or  frees  rise  <o  hicuk 
the  iltt'l  nionofony  of  llie  face  of  tlie  earlls  ;  the  shores  thai 
l)on:<l  (hf  S(.  Lawrence  are,  when  in  a  s(aieof  nature,  eov- 
erv(i  \w(h  an  almost  eontinuous  and  impervious  forest.  And 
last,  thou;;2i  radier  an  aecidental  than  a  natural  distinction^ 
the  jMississi|)|ti  rolls  its  mighty  volume,  swelled  hv  more 
than  a  thousand  rivers,  through  one  empire,  and  is.  as  J  once 
before  ohserved,  "  the  largest  stream  on  this  glohe,  whose 
entire  course  lies  wilhin  one  sovereignty."  'I'he  St.  Law- 
renee  is.  formore  than  thirteen  hundred  miles,  a  national  lim- 
it, andassuch^niarked  with  the  sanguinary  points  which  dis- 
tinguish the  hounds  of  rival  power.  15oth  rivers  have  a 
name  in  (he  hearis  of  »he  people  of  the  United  States,  uport 
boJh  have  their  arms  been  wrualhcd  vritli  never  fading  lau- 
rels* 

Mr.  Bouchette,  page  32  of  his  topographical  description 
of  Canada,  commences  a  description  of  St.  Lawrence,  which 
from  the  extensive  local  Knowle(?ge  of  this  author,  is  no 
doubt  the  best  notice  of  this  rivet*  that  has  yet  been  publish- 
ed to  the  world.  I  am  ignorant  whether  you  have  read  Mr. 
Bouchette*s  statistics  or  not  ;  from  its  voluminous  size,  it  is 
a  scarce  and  expensive  work  in  the  Vnittd  States.  As  it 
>vouId  not  be  in  my  power  to  give  so  extensive,  or  except  in 
a  small  part,  so  accurate  a  picture  of  this  remarkable 
stream.  1  have  sent  you  a  copy  of  iVIr.  Jiouehette's  descrip- 
tion, wiih  occasional  notes  from  myself,  which  together  will, 
1  ti'ust,  convey  a  tolerable  comprehensive  view  of  the  most 
singular ol)j<'((  in  North  American  hydrography. 

♦•  The  rjvcr  St.  Lawrence,  (which  from  its  first  discovery 
in  ih6b^  has  been  called  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  country,  to 
mark  iis  pre-eminence,  the  Great  river,)  receives  nearly  all 
the  livers,  whirh  have  their  sources  in  the  extensive  range 
of  mountains  to  the  northward,  called  the  Land's  Heigbt> 
that  separates  the  waters  falling  into  Hudson's  Bay  still  fur- 
ther to  the  north,  from  those  that  descend  into  the  Atlantic  | 
Hnd  all  those  that  rise  in  (heriJge  which  commences  on  its 


LET.    IX.] 

southern 

upon  Lak 

OUawa,  ] 

tier,  Sygi] 

and  the  ^ 

Yamaska 

and  Du  1 

il  is  kno' 

from  the 

Montreal 

Cataraqu 

for  the  ri 

six  natioi 

led  Niaji 

the  Deti 

river   St 

rior,   the 

Mary  fo 

Lake  Su 

uvitiqn,  n 

whence, 

continue 

the  soun 

aminiug 

lieads  to 

ted  in  a 

4(ualled 

globe,  ii 

381,  its 


*Col 
fprined 
granted 
ihe  nov 
toiu  has 
its  liidiii 
French 


LET.    IX.] 


HiVUR   ST.   LA\^'IlE^CK. 


•J 


soudicrn  hank,  and  nins  nearly  soiilh-wcsforly,  until  it  fisllff 
upon  Lake  C;  aniplain.     Of  these,  the  principal  ones  are  the 
0((ava,  Musquinonge,  St.  Manriee,  St.  Ann,  .Tacfjues  Car- 
lier,  Syguenaj',  Betsian»iies,  and  Maiiieouagan  op  the  north  ; 
and  the  Salmon  river,  Chatean.j^ay,  C!iani!>ly  or  Riehelicn, 
Yaniaska,  St.  Francis,   IJecaneojir,    I)u  Chene,   Chuudiere, 
and  Dn  Lonp.  on  llie  mmth.     In  diifcrent  parts  of  its  efnirsc 
it  is  known    'nd«*r  i!iiii*rent  appelhitions  ;  thus,   as  hi,"!^h  up 
from  the  sea  as  .Montreal,   it  is  eaiied  St.  Lawrence  ;  from 
Montreal    to  kin^slon  in    Upper  ('anada,   it   is  called   the 
Cataraqni,  or  Jir<»<(uols  ;*  (Cataraqni   wa«^  the  Indj^n  name 
for  the  river  Iroquois,  the  name  given   by  tljo  French  to  the 
six  nations)   between  lake  Ontario  and  lake  Krie,  it  is  cal- 
led Niagara  river;  between   lake  Krie  and   lake  Si.  Clair, 
tlie   Detroit  ;  between  lake  St.  Clair  and  lake  lluro.M,   (ho 
river    St.  Clair  ;  and   between  lake  Huron  and   lake  Supe- 
rior,  the  distance  is  called  the  IKarrows,    or  the  falls  of  St. 
Mary  forming  thus  an  uninterrupted  connexion  of  2000  niiles^ 
Lake  Superior,  without  the  ai<!  of  any  great  efiort  of  imagi- 
nation, may  be  considered  as  the  inexhaustible  spring  from 
whence,  through   unnumbered    ages,  the  St.  Lawrence  ha? 
continued  to  derive  its  ample  streauj.     lam  not  aware  that 
the  source  of  this  river  has  thus  been  defmod  befare ;  but  ex  • 
amining   the  usual  mode  of  tracing  large  rivers  from  their 
heads  to  the  estuaries,  I  venture  to  believe  that  I  am  warran- 
ted in  adopting  the  hypothesis.     This  immense  lake,   une- 
qualled in  magnitude  by  any  collection  of  fresh  water  on  JJie 
globe,  is  almost  of  u  triangular  form;  its  greatest  length  is 
381,  its  breadih   ItJl,  and  its  circumference  little   less  than 


il 


»:   'a 


m 


H2 


1 «-' 


I.  ^^ 


•<1 


n 


LAKE  surEuion 


[let.    IX. 


'p 


> 

•  i,  ■ 
V- 


1152  uiik's  ;  rmd  as  remjukahlo  Toi-  iho  imrivalKil  lran.si)si- 
1*011(7  ol'  its  >va(fjs,  as  i'ov  iis  oxlraoiiiinary  (kplh.  Jtis 
iioillifin  I'oast,  iriilfim'd  willi  >niin}  cxtcn-ivf  ba^s  is  liij;h 
lint)  lockv  ;  Inil  on  llie  soinlicrn  ihore  llic  land  is  {;<'in  rally 
low  and  lovol  ;  a  sea  almost  of  itscll',  it  i«  subject  to  many 
vifissitiidcs  ol' that  olrmcnt,  for  lu-re  tiic  storm  ra;;<s,  and 
the  billows  birak  with  a  violence  scaifi'ly  sukpassid  by  tlio 
tcmpi'bts  ol' t He  ocean.  Jn  :he  distant  rant^e  oC  mountains 
that  forms  tlie  Land's  Height,  beyond  its  noilhern 
and  western  shores,  several  considerable  rivers,  and  nu- 
inerous  sniaJ]  oaes  iiavc  tlnii'  rise,  which  belnu;  increased  \u 
(heir  com se  by  many  sr»ull  lakes,  linally  dischaij^e  Jhein- 
•iclves  inU)  lake  Superior.  I'o  tlio  southward  also  there  is» 
another  lofty  range,  dividing  the  waters  th^t  And  iheir  way 
to    the    CJuir  of  Mexico,    throuali   the  chatmel   of  the  Mis - 


&• 


SI 


ssippi,  from  those  that  take  a  northern  course  into  the 
great  lake  ;  so  that  its  vastness  is  increased  by  the  tributa- 
ry Streams  of  more  than  thirty  ijvers.  On  its  norlli  anrt 
north-east  sides  theie  are  several  islands,  of  which  one,  call- 
ed Isle  Royale  is  the  largest,  being  one  hundred  miles  loni^ 
and  forty  broad.  Out  of  I^ake  Superior  a  very  rapid  cur» 
rent  is  interrupted  and  broken  by  several  snsall  islands,  oi* 
rather  huge  masses  o*'  rock,  through  a  channel  of  twenty- 
seven  miles  in  length,  at  the  end  of  which  it  Hows  into  lake 
Jiuron.  Tl»e  Falls  of  St.  V-ny  are  nearly  midway  between 
the  two  lakes;  this  denomination,  though  generally  given, 
but  little  accords  with  the  Jisual  appellation  of  Falls,  as  ap- 
plied to  the  descent  of  large  bodies  of  water  precipitated 
i'rom  great  heiglsts,  that  so  fre(juently  occur  on  the  rivers  oT 
America  j*  for  in  this  place,  it  is  only  (he  impetuous  stream 


■*  The  French  term,  saut,  lilrrally  Jump,  or  Ic^p,  from  the 
A'crl)  saKhr,  (o  jump  or  leap,  aiiswers  rather  to  the  English  noun 
rapid,  iluni  to  u>:  actual  perpeuclicular/a//  of  >vaier.  The  I'reiieh 
iiouii  cliuti^,  is  iridiiiereuLly  applied  to  eitlier  a  j"fl//  or  riipid,  but 
also,  more  eon ectly  to  the  latter:  cataract  siguifscs  the  ci^xm^ 
sense  in  I>olh  lantruatre?. 


S' 


th: 
an 
tlii 


a 


'ci 


IX. 


IBT.    IX.] 


r.iKR  nunoy. 


f»5 


of  the  enormous  discliarf;e  from  lake  Superior,  forcing  i(s 
wa^  (!irou.t;lia  eonfnied  elianttel,  and  lircaklii};  with  propor- 
tionate vioh'iiee  anion;;  tJic  impediments  that  nature  has 
thrown  in  ils  way  ;  }'et  tliis  sernr  of  tumultuous  and  un- 
ceasing agitation  oi'  the  waters,  eomlkined  witli  the  noise  and 
dazzling  whiteness  ol*  the  surge,  i^  not  deiieient  cillier  in 
grandeur  or  magnirieeiurc." 

*»  Lake  Huron,  in  point  oT  extent,  jiclds  hut  little  to  Lake 
Superior,  its  greatest  length  I'roni  west  to  east  is  '^18  statute 
miles  ;  at  its  western  extremity  it  is  less  than  one  hundred, 
and  at  a!»out  one  hundred  uiilcs  from  its  eastern  shore,  hare- 
]y  sixty  miles  (u'oad  ;  but  near  the  centre  it  stiddenly  bends 
away  southward,  to  the  breadth  of  one  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  J  measuring  the  eireumlerenee  through  all  its  curva- 
tures, will  give  a  distance  of  little  less  than  812  ntiles  ;  in 
shape  it  is  exceedingly  irregular,  yct^  with  a  little  assistance 
iVoui  fancy,  may  he  fashioned  into  something  like  a  triangu- 
lar. From  its  we:^tern  -^ide  an  extensive  series,  called  the 
Manatoulin  rslan^!.s,  stretehes  in  an  easterly  direction  for  one 
hundred  and  sixty  miles  ;  many  of  them  njeasuring  frou»  twen- 
ty to  thirty  miles  in  length,  by  ii^'n,  twelve,  and  iiftcen  iti 
breadth,  on  some  of  Ahich  the  land  rises  into  elevations  of 
consi<lerahle  height.  Besides  this  great  rbain,  there  are 
many  others  of  inferior  dimensions,  nunujrously  groiiped  in 
various  parts,  rendering  the  navigation  intricate,  and  in  sonn'. 
places,  and  particularly  towrads  t!»c  west  end,  dangerous, 
On  this  lake  also,  the  navigation  is  often  assailed  by  violent, 
storms,  atl  nded  with  thunder  and  liglitning,  more  terrific 
than  in  any  otlu'r  pail  of  North  America.  At  the  western 
angle  of  lake  lluroj;  is  lake  Michigan,  wiiieh,  although 
distinguished  by  a  separate  nauic,  can  only  be  considered  a^; 
a  part  of  the  former,  deepening  into  a  bay  of  26'Z  miles  in 
length  by  sixt.v-five  in  breadth,  and  whose  entire  cireumfei  ^ 
cnce  is  7.U  miles.  Between  it  and  Lake  Huron  there  is  ;; 
peninsula  that,  at  the  widest  part,  is  1.^0  miles,  along  uhiih. 
and  round  the  bouom  of  Miciii^jim,  rims  part  of  the  chain 


i 


96 


J^KRH   limiON    AND    MICHIGAN.  [tET.  IX. 


f-.i.'';> 


forming  the  Land's  Height,  to  the  §ou(hwiu'd  j  IVoni  wlience 
descend  nmny  largt*  and  nuiiiei*ous  iniVriur  bMranis  ihut  dis- 
charge into  it.*  On  the  north  side  ol'  lake  Huron,  mviny 
rivers  of  eonsiderahlc  size  run  from  tlie  Land's  lU'i},^ht 
down  to  it.  One  of  them,  called  French  river,  communi- 
cates with  lake  JSipissing,  fiom  whence  a  succession  of 
smaller  onc^*.  connected  hy  short  porfages,  opens  an  inter- 
course with  the  Ottawf!  river,  that  joins  the  St.  Law  renew 
^ear  Montreal,  i"     On  the  eastern  ej^irepii*)^  of  the  lake  is 

*Tlie  ])eninsiila  between  lakes  Micliitfaii,  Iliiron,  St.  Clair  and 
Eric,  and  tlie  riv<  is  St.  Clair  and  DeUcit,  now  forms  lln'  Miclii- 
pail  'I'cnitoiy.  It  is  conlidfMitly  asserted  by  many,  ibat,  at  high 
floods  a  connnunication  does  exist  between  lake  Michi{,'an  and 
Illinois  river.  If  tliis  assninption  be  well  founded,  it  aflbrds  one 
of  the  most  astonishing  hydj()gra|>liical  anomalies  on  earth.  It 
has  long  sjiice  been  deleniiined  that  the  surface  of  lake  trie  is 
565  feet  above  the  level  of  tide  water  in  the  Hudson  river  at  Al- 
bany. The  dilll'ience  of  lev<l  between  lakes  Erie  and  Micliigau 
liy  the  descent  of  the  rivei.s  Detroit  and  St.  Clair,  cannot  exceed 
twenty-nine  feet,  if  so  much.  Dclioil  is  '26,  and  St.  Clair  river 
;V2  miles  in  lenutli,  and  allowing  six  inches  j)er  mile  for  the  per- 
pendicular fall  of  both  rivers,  is  an  ample  estimate  of  their  ag- 
gregate descent.  Tiiis  com})utalion  would  yield  594  feet  as  the 
elevation  of  the  surface  of  lakes  Huron  and  Michigan  above  the 
Atlantic  tides  j  ami  if  the  hypothesis  be  founded  on  correct  data, 
of  a  counter  current  from  the  Illinois  river  into  Michigan  lake, 
and  vice  versa,  then  tiie  point  of  separation  of  those  currents  i.s 
ecjui  elevated  above  the  level  of  the  gulfs  of  St.  Lawrence  and 
Alexico,  ajul  would  divide  this  conlinenl  into  two  vast  though  un- 
ocjual  islands.  Baron  Humboldt  lias  established  the  fact  of  the: 
existence  of  a  similar  interlocutory  <:ommunication  between  the 
waters  of  the  Oronoco  and  Amazon  rivers;  and  1  have  in  thcst; 
letters,  upon  the  respectable  authority  of  Mr.  Isaac  Uriggs,  pub- 
lished the  fact  that  the  waters  of  the  Uj)per  Mohawk  do,  whoa 
swelled  by  Hoods,  flow  partly  down  the  iMoliavk  and  partly  down 
the  Oneida  rivers. 

t  It  has  already  been  .stated,  upon  the  authority  of  Col.  Ogii- 
vie,  that  the  original  French  term  St.  Lawrence  was  continued 
above  Montreal  by  the  stream  of  the  Oltava.  Mr.  Konchcllft 
unequivocally  establishes  the  transposition  of  names,  to  which  I 
liave  before  alluded. 

The  Ottawa  is  a  verjf  large  and  impetuous  stream  flowing  out 
of  the  niouulains  which  wind  north  of  lake  Huron.    Tl;c  general! 


LET-    IX.] 

ihe  Mach 
lakes,  sep 
coiuinunit 


toursc  of' 

Montreal 

to  the  noi 

its  source 

proaches 

then  assu 

direction 

the  Two 

and  disch 

earth  of  s 

It  is  extr 

»piered  b; 

Settleme 

between 

very  fer 

kinds  of 

It  has 

branch  < 

Saguena 

words : 

St.  Law 

streams 

source  I 

expanse 

ny  larj 

immens 

Sable, 

extrem 

the  otli 

ter  tlo> 

the  mc 

the  in 

course 

St.  La 

very  n 

yards 

monly 

there 

Avhole 

treme 

>Tiiles 

GOMtri 


LET-    IX.]         RIVERK   OTTAWA   AND    lAGUENAr. 


I*? 


Ice 


II  s- 


flu 

fii" 

I  or 

'V- 

in 


the  Muchcdsish  river,  which,  tlioiip;h  anollicr  suceeasion  of 
Jakt'8,  8i'[><ii'a(e(l  only  by  one  short  portage,  cutaliliHlu's  ii 
coiuuiunieation  by  lake  Sinicuc,  ilollatid  river,  and  Yonge^ 


toiM'sc  of  ihc  Ottawa  is  tolor;ibly  well  known,  as  the  traders  froip 
Montreal  frociiUMitly  (oilow  (hat  riv«  rin  piosfcntin},'  tlu>ir  xoyam'S 
(o  the  noilli-wost.  ['or  llie  distance  oltlHf't'  liiuulrrd  inil«\s  iVoiii 
its  source,  the  course  oitlie  Ottawa  is  soulh<«ast,  to  wliere  it  aj;i- 
proaclies  witiiin  sixty  miles  of  Kinirston  in  I'pper  ('anada  ;  it 
then  assuin(;s  a  eoinsc  a  little  north  of  east,  and  lloN>iiit:  in  that 
direction  about  200  miles  joins  the  St.  Iiawr»'iiee  hy  the  lake  ol 
the  Two  Mountains  above  MoiMreal.  The  volunu.'  eontaiiied  in, 
and  discharged  by  the  Ottawa,  is  imniens*?;  few  if  any  rivers  on 
earth  of  an  e(jual  length  equal  this  stream  in  (juautily  of  water. 
It  is  extremely  interrupted  by  rapi<ls  and  falls,  frecpuintly  che- 
quered by  islands  and  dilated  into  lakes  of  a  considerable  extent. 
Settlements  have  been  matle  upon  the  Ottawa  along  both  baf:ki» 
between  100  and  200  miles  above  its  mouth  ;  miu;h  of  the  soil  is 
very  fertile,  and  supplied  with  inexhaustible  forests  of  various 
kinds  of  tiniber. 

It  has  been  generally  believed  thai  the  Ottawa  was  the  largest 
branch  of  St.  Lawrence,  but  Mr.  Bouchette  gives  that  lank  to  the 
Saguenay  ;  his  description  of  the  latter  river  is  in  the  following 
words:  "  The  river  iSagneuay,  which  discharges  itself  into  the 
St.  Lawrence,  at  Fointe  aux  ^Ucuetles,  is  the  largest  of  all  the 
streams  that  pay  their  tribute  to  the  Great  rwer.  ft  draws  its 
source  from  lake  St.  John,  a  collection  of  waters  of  considerable 
expanse,  lying  in  N.  lat.  48*  20'  W.  long.  72"  30'  receiving  ma- 
ny large  rivers  that  flow  from  the  north  and  northwest,  from  nn 
immense  distance  in  the  interior,  of  which  the  Piecougamis,  the 
Sable,  and  the  Pariboaca  are  the  principal  ones.  At  its  eastern 
extremity  two  large  streams,  one  called  the  Great  Discharge,  and 
the  other  the  Kinogami,  or  Land  river,  issue  fron)  it ;  which,  af- 
ter flowing  about  57  miles,  and  encompassing  a  tract  of  land  of 
the  mean  breadtii  of  twelve  miles,  unite  their  wiUcr.s,  and  become 
the  irresistible  SAGUENAY;  from  which  jioiiit  it  continues  its 
"Course  in  an  easterly  direction  for  about  100  miles  down  to  the 
St.  Lawrence.  The  banks  of  this  river  throughout  its  course  are 
very  rocky  and  inmiensely  high,  varying  froiu  170  even  to  340 
yards  above  the  stream.  Its  current  is  broad,  deep,  and  inicom- 
monly  vehement.  In  some  places  where  preci|)ic«'s  intervene, 
there  are  falls  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  in  height,  down  which  the 
whole  volume  of  the  stream  rushes  with  indescribable  fury  and 
tremendous  noise.  The  general  breadtii  of  the  river  is  fioni  two 
iniles  and  a  half  to  three  miles,  but  at  its  mouth  the  distance  is 
contracted  to  about  one   mije.     The  depth  of  this  eHOimous 


i        I  i 


''III! 


4 


•■■•■-,■■ 


y8 


RiVBU   hAGUEWV. 


[let.    IX. 


street,  villi  ilw  Utwu  of  York,  now  calli'i!  (ho  fa|ii(al  of  IJp- 
|K>i'  C'.inuda  ;  (liis  rcuile  woiilil  most  inali'i-iulljK  shoiloii  the 
<lis(ani'(' betwci'n  <Iic  iippiM*  and  Iu>m>i' lak<'s,  and  Ih  rapalilc 
of  sucli  iiiiiirovcriKSil,  as  \\u\\\A  rcndci'  il  lii^lil}  lirm'ticial  t(» 
t'pper  Canada,*  u  suhjtct  (liat  \>ill  l)u  hcrouUei'  adverted  to, 


stream  is  nlsn  rxtiaordiiiiMV.  At  it.s  disdiarjic,  nltomj)t.s  linvr- 
\)i.'cn  iiiMtlf  to  find  its  hottom,  with  liv«<  liiiiidrcd  ({itlioins  of  lint, 
hut  Nvitlioiit  rl'li-ct ;  ahoiit  two  miles  liiLdicr  up,  it  lias  lit'Oii  rcpt'at- 
edly  somidrd  iVoiii  (Mic  hiiiuliod  and  lliirty  to  oim'  limuhcd  and 
Ibrtv  fathoms  ;  andfioni  sixty  to  seventy  miles  from  llie  Jit,  Law- 
l«Mice,  its  dt'plh  is  found  from  fifty  to  sixty  fatlioms  The  course 
of  the  riv(M*,  notwithstanding  its  magnitndo,  is  very  sinuous,  ow- 
iii<.i  to  inany  projecting  points  from  each  shore.  The  tide  runs 
about  70  miles  up  il,  and  upon  account  of  the  obstructions  occa- 
^iolled  by  tlie  numerons  promontories,  the  ebb  is  much  later  than 
in  liic  !^l.  l.aw](Mue;  in  consequence  of  which,  at  low  water  in 
the  latter,  the  lorce  of  the  desceiuling  stream  of  the  Saguenay  is 
felt  for  several  miles  .lust  within  the  mouth  of  ihe  river,  oppo- 
fsite  to  I'ointe  aux  Allonettes,  is  the  harbor  of  Tadoussae,  which 
is  very  weil  sheltered  by  the  surrounding  high  lands,  and  ha.'» 
good  anchorage  for  a  great  number  of  '.esscls,  of  a  large  size, 
-wher<?  they  may  lie  in  perfect  safi.'ty.  On  the  northern  shore  oi 
tiie  St.  Lawrence,  ami  at  many  places  on  the  Saguenay,  then 
are  stations  for  trading  with  the  Indians  tor  peltry,  and  ibr  carry- 
ing on  the  whale,  seal,  porpoise,  ami  salmon  tishery  ;  these  are 
known  by  the  name  of  King's  Posts,  and  are  now  let,  with  all 
their  privileges,  to  the  North  West  ('ompany  at  Quebec,  on  a 
lease  at  a  thousand  and  twenty-live  pounds  j»er  annum.  An  es- 
tablisliment  is  maintained  at  Tadoussae,  at  Cliicoutami,  on  the 
Satucnay,  at  Lake  St.  John,  at  Les  isles  de  Jerimie,  near  Belsia- 
milis  point,  at  the  Seven  islands,  beyoiid  Cap  des  J\h)nts  Peles, 
and  at  ('ap  des  i\h)nts.  At  those  towards  the  sea  the  fisherii :» 
are  pursued  during  the  summer,  and  at  the  interior  ones  llie  fur 
trade  is  carried  on  with  the  Iiuliajis  during  the  winter.  About 
the  trading  post  at  Cliicoutami  the  land  is  tolerably  fertile,  and 
the  timber  of  a  superior  ijualily.  In  the  little  agriculture  that  is 
here  i>aid  attention  to,  it  has  been  observed  that  crain  ripens 
sooner  than  it  does  in  the  vicinity  of  Qut  bee,  allhough  the  situa- 
tion [of  the  Ibrmer  place]  is  much  furllu  r  to  tlu^  northward. 
Another  of  the  many  anomalies  .hat  distinguish  the  climate  of 
Canada."  lBu7ich.'tte''s  Canada,  page  56o-b66. 

*  III  the  progress  of  population  along  the  bolder  of  the  Cana- 
dian lakes,  an  open  water  route  from  New- York  to  the  eastern 
angle  of  lake  Huron,  will  no  doubt  be  Ibrnied,  and  will  more  se« 


IX. 

(liC 

hlilc 
jal  (o 

llinvf 
lint, 

|po;U- 
aiid 

'•-nw- 

p,  ow- 

I'lins 

locca- 

tiiaii 

(my  is 
Pp'po- 


LET.    I  X.J 


IIIVF/R    AT.    CLAIH. 


UJ» 


From  (he  cxliTiiiKv  uf  Lake  HiirtMi  (o  (he  .soulhwnnl.  (he 
coiirsf  (»r  llic  wa(oi'»  arc  (MuHraclcd  iii(o  a  rivrr  (caMfd  h(. 
Clair'-.)  (hat  How  hcl»ci'U  iiioih'ralci^  hi.i;h  banks,  aclorrnd 
|jy  many  natural  hranlies  r«."  atlis(ani'o  or«>i\(y  inih's,*  near- 
ly due  sou(h,  when  it  apiin  cxjiandH  in(o  ihe  small  lake  Si. 
Clair,  almost  uireiilar  in  form,  iin  diameter  al)ou(  .)()  mile'., 
anduhonl  !>U  in  eireui(,  (oo  dimiiuitive,  \\hen  eompared  vilh 
the  [»reecdin;x  ones,  (and  not  hein^  otherwise  remarkahle) 
to  demand  a  further  deseription.  Out  oi'  Ihin  lake  the  wa- 
ters a^ain  assume  the  tbrui  of  a  river,  (eailed  ileiroii)  eon- 
tinning  the  same  southerly  course  i*or  liU  milesj  iiiio  I^ake 
Kric  5  its  sti'cum  is  divided  into  two  channels  from  hpuee  tu 

riously  aflect  the  course  of  coinuieioe  in  tlint  (piarter,  than  any 
improvement  within  luiman  po\v<'r,  after  tluit  olilif  (iiaiid  Ca- 
nal in  the  stsite  of  New- York.  From  tlic  post  of  iMichilimnkinne 
io  York  iti  Canada,  by  k'lkes  Huron,  lOrie,  and  Nisitrara  river,  is 
650  n)iles,  whilst  it  is  only  350  miles  between  tlio.se  two  points  by 
lake  Huron  and  llie  intended  canal  l)y  laxe  Siniene.  How  fai 
the  inlervcninjr  country  between  lakes  Ontario  and  fiinon,  is  fa- 
vorable to  the  formation  of  a  canal,  I  am  uninlbrmed,  but  am  iu- 
cHued  to  believe  that  there  does  not  exist  any  very  ieri<»us  im- 

fjediment  to  such  an  enterpri/.e.  Kvery  thing  else  (Mpial,  the  in- 
labitanls  on  the  north  side  of  the  Canadian  sea  have  jiL'ainst 
them  a  dilliculty  suHicient  to  ])revcnt  a  succcssl'ul  c(iiip«lition 
with  their  more  southern  ri\als;  tliat  is  the  climatc^  'Ihis  is  a 
circumstance  ntVecting  the  comparative  advance  of  the  two  conn- 
tries  wliicli  must  remain  uMchanged  for  ever,  n)au{(ie  all  bnuian 
etlbrts.  If  an  equal  share  of  active  enterprize  in  the  great  body 
of  the  people,  and  e(iual  ])rotection  to  person  and  proj)erty  in 
their  government  distinguishes  the  contiguous  states  of  the  Uni- 
ted States,  as  the  Britisii  Canadian  Provinces,  the  |)rogiess  of  tht; 
former  m  ist  be  more  rapid  than  the  hitler.  Tlic  itsonrcrs  of 
both  are,  however,  immense,  and  demand  for  de\elopcinewt  only 
the  energetic  applicaiion  of  their  incicasing  means. 

*  The  distance  is  here  over-rated  considerably.  From  actunl 
survey,  it  is  less  than  forty  miles  iVom  the  holtoni  of  lake  Huron 
into  lake  St.  Clair.  This  subject  will  be  more  particularly  no- 
ticed in  the  sequel  of  this  treatise. 

t  This  distance  is  also  slated  too  Inrge,  as  will  j;e  seen  hy  re- 
feren'ce  to  that  part  of  this  conc.'^pondcnce  relating  to  Detroit 
and  its  environs. 


«!, 


M 


'»ii 


i/i'i 


!.       ,  < 


'••    '.'1 


^00 


LAK£   ERIE. 


[let.  IX* 


XBT. 


space,  by  islands  of  various  sizes,  the  largest  being  about 
ten  miles  long.  On  (he  cast  srdc  of  this  river  llie  prospect 
is  diversified  and  agreeable,  disp!a;^ing  sonic  of  (he  beauties 
of  an  exub'irant  soil,  aided  b^'  a  very  respectable  state  of 
cullivation,  and  enlivened  by  the  cheerful  appearance  of  set- 
tlements and  villages,  gradually  rising  into  consequence  by 
the  industry  of  an  increasing  population.  The  Detroit 
opens  into  the  south-west  end  of  lake  Erie.  This  lake  ex- 
tends from  south-west  to  npviii-east  t>vo  hundred  and  thirty 
one  miles,  in  its  broadest  partis  63  1-3,  antl  in  circumference 
658.  A'^ear  the  Detroit  it  is  adorned  by  many  pleasing  and 
picturesque  islands,  whilst  its  shores  on  both  sides,  have  ma- 
ny indications  of  settlement  and  cultivation.  Gales  of  wind 
frequently  occur,  and  brinp*  with  them  a  heavy  swell,  with 
every  characteristic  of  a  gale  of  wind  at  sea  ;  but  there  arc. 
iiiany  good  harbors,  particularly  on  the  nortlieru  side,*  thatt 


*  Here  llie  partiality  of  tlie  Canadian  appears.  Lake  Erie  is. 
unfortunately  (leficienl  in  good  harbors  on  both  shores,  but  if  no 
other  circumstance  exccj)t  the  confluent  rivers  existed,  that  alone 
vould  give  a  decided  preference  to  the  southern  shore.  It  is  a 
singular  fact  that  the  Ouse  or  Gra  id  river  is  the  only  stream  of 
any  consequence  which  enters  lake  Erie  from  the  Canada  shore; 
whilst  on  the  opposite  side  enter  the  Cataraugus,  Ashtabula, 
Cayahoga,  Black  river,  Vermillion,  Huron  of  the  state  of  Ohio, 
Sandusky,  Mauniee,  Raisin,  and  the  southern  Huron  of  the  Mi- 
chigan Territory;  aiid  besides  these,  many  of  which  aflbrd  good 
:;holter  for  vessels,  are  the  harbors  of  Dunkirk  and  Erie,  into 
which  no  rivers  are  disenihocued.  Put-in-bay,  in  the  southern 
t3ass  island,  is  an  excclleut  harbor;  perhaps,  except  ]  'troit  riv- 
er itself,  the  best  in  lake  Erie.  As  the  author  visited  most  of 
these  bays  and  rivers,  particular  descriptions  will  be  found  in 
the  course  o.'  :!iis  treatise,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred. 

The  Ouse  or  Grand  river  rises  in  Upper  Canada,  about  fifty 
miles  north-west  of  the  westein  extreuiity  of  lake  Ontario,  and 
following  a  south-south-east  course  of  about  8"  miles  falls  into 
lake  Erie  35  miles  west  effort  Erie;  it  has  a  bar  at  the  mouth 
like  all  other  lake  rivers.  Interlocking  with  the  Ouse  rises  the 
liver  Thames,  the  riviere  a  la  Tranche  of  the  French,  or  Escan- 
sipi  of  the  Chippewa  Indians.  The  Thames  flows  to  the  south- 
west, about  15  ujiles  from  and  v<  ry  nearly  parallel  to  lake  Erie, 
and  finally  falls  into  lake  St,  Clair  about  4o  miles  east  from  i\m 


LET.    IX.] 


KIAGAUA   JtlV£It. 


101 


afTord  protection  to  ^lic  numerous  vessels  that  navigate  it. 
Its  greatest  depth  of  water  U  between  1-0  and  45  fathoms,'"' 
its  bottom  generally  rocky,  which  renders  the  anchorage 
precarious,   particularly    in   blowing  Aveather.     From   the 
north-east  end    of  lake  Erie,   the  communication  to  lake 
Ontario  is  by  the  Niagara  river,  36  miles  in  length,  and  va- 
rying  from  half  a  mile  to  a  leag      in  breadth,  its  course 
nearly  norths    The  stream  in  some  places  is  divided  into  two 
channels  by  islands,   the  largest  of  which  is  seven  miles  in 
length.     The  current  is  impetuous,  and  being  broken  in  ma-^ 
iiy  places  by  the  uneven  rocky  bottom,  is  very  much  agitated. 
The  banks  on  each  side  of  the  river  are  almost  perpendicular, 
and  considerably  more  than  one  hundred  yards  high.f    On 
the  western  side  the  road  passes  along  its  summit,  and  de- 
lights the  traveller  with  many  interesting  views  both  of  the 
river  and  the  country,  which  is  thickly  inhabited,  and  under 
excellent  culture.     Here  also  his  mind  will  be  lost  in  wonder 
at  viewing  the  stupendous  Falls  of  Niagara,  unquestionably 
one  of  the  most  extraordinary  spectacles  In  nature,  that  pre- 
sents to  the  imagination  as  powerful  a  contbination  of  sub- 
limity and  grandeur,  magnificence  and  terror,  as  it  can  well 
experience.    Any  description,  however  animated,  whether 
pourtrayed  by  the  glowing  pencil  of  art,  guided  by  the  live- 
liest fancy,  or  flowing  from  the  most  eloquent  pen  that  em- 
bellishes the  page  of   narrative,   would,   most    probably^ 

town  of  Detroit.  Several  indenlings  of  the  north  shore  of  lake 
Erie  produce  harbors,  one  of  which,  the  North  Foreland,  has 
j^reat  resemblance  to  ihe  bay  of  Erie,  though  upon  a  larger  scale ; 
some  others,  like  Dunkirk,  are  open  semi-elliptical  bays,  with  no 
great  depth  of  water.  Maiden,  or  Amherstburg,  is  incompara- 
bly the  best  harbor  in  Canada,  in  or  contiguous  to  lake  Erie. 

*  Medium  depth  ab«ut  20  fathoms. 

t  This  is  fact  only  between  the  falls  and  Queenstown.  Many 
places  above  the  falls  the  banks  are  nearly  on  .i  level  with,  and  iu 
others,  rising  but  little  above  tire  surface  of  the  river.  Belovr 
Queenstown,  the  banks  gradually  decline,  until  near  lake  Onta;^ 
tioj  they  are  subject  to  occasional  inundjition. 


:"?) 


i.V' 


102 


NI.vriAllA   RIVER. 


[let.    IX. 


fall  short  ol'  doing  adequate  jiisdcc  to  the  rcalKyv  The  at- 
leinpt,  liowcvcr,  has  been  so  frequently  made,  and  in  some 
low  instances  with  loleiuble  suecess,  as  to  convey  an  idea  of 
its  iinmensilv,  lliat,  "  a  description  of  the  Falls  of  Niagaia" 
lias  become  familiar  to  almost  every  general  reader.  Fop 
this  reason,  and  Jilso  because  in  any  new  endeavor,  I  should 
certainly  feel  but  little  confident  of  either  reaching  the  mer- 
it of  the  subject,  or  contributing  to  the  stock  of  knowledge 
already  obtained  thereon.  I  will  excuse  myself  from  re- 
peating what  has  been  so  often  related  before,  and  proceed 
ill  describing,  with  my  best  means,  the  general  outlines  of 
this  majestic  river.  ~ 

*»  Five  miles  from  the  great  Falls  is  another,  and  scarcely 
less  tremendous  natural  curiosity,  called  the  whirlpool ;  it  i» 
occasioned  by  the  stream  as  it  passes  from   the    cataract 
sweeping  with  impetuous  violence  round  a  natural  basin  en- 
closed between  some  rocky  promontories,  wherein  U  forms  a 
vortex,    that  ensures    inevitable  destruction    to    whatever 
comes  within  its  attraction.     By   tlius  diverging  from  its 
forward  direction,  and  being  as  it  were  embayed  for  a  time, 
the  velocity  of  the  current  is  checked,  and  subdued  to  a  more 
tranquil  course  towards  Lake  Ontario.    Four  miles  from 
hence   is  Queenstown,  a  neat,  well  buiii  place,  deserving  of 
notice,  as  being  the  depot  for  all  merchandize  and  stores? 
brought  from  Montreal  and  Quebec,  for  the  use  of  the  upper 
province  ;  but  not  less  so  for  the  romantic  beauty  and  local 
grandeur  of  its  situation.     For  seven  miles  further  on,  to  the 
town  of  Newark  or   Niagara,  the  river  forms  an  excellent 
eapacious  harbor  for  vessels  of  any  size,  exceedingly  well 
sheltered  by  high  and  bold  banks  on  each  side,  with  good 
anchorage  in  every  part.    The  river  of  Niagara  communi- 
cates with  the  west  end  of  Lake  Ontario,  rendered  memora- 
ble by  events  recently  passed,  and  most  probably  destined  to 
become  the  scene  of  contests,     liat  will  be   pregnant  with 
momentous  import  to  North  America  in   future  ages.     In 
length  it  is  171  miles,  at  its  greatest  breadth  59  1-2,  and  407 


IX. 

|c  at- 
pome 
lea  of 


fcai*a'- 


For 

[loiild 

Imer- 

iJecJgc 

)eec(l 
les  of 

ircely 


LET.   IX.] 


l^AKK   ONTARIO. 


lOS 


in  cirt'umfcrcncc.    The  depth  of  water  varies  very  ini:ch» 
but  is  seldom  less  than  three,  oi*  more  than  50  fathoms,  ex- 
cept in  the  middle,  where  attempts  have  been  made  with  300 
fathoms  without  striking  soundings.^    Its  position  is  nearly 
cast  and  west.     The  appearance  of  the  shores  exhibits  great 
diversity  ;  towards  the  north-east  part  they  are  low,  with  ma- 
ny marshy  places ;  to  the  north  and  north-west  they  assume 
a  lofty  character,  but  subside  again  to  very  moderate  height 
on  the   south. I     Bordering  the   lake  the  country  is  every 
where  covered  with  woods,  through  whose  numerous  open- 
ings frequent  patches  of  settlements  are  seen  that  give  it  a 
pleasing  eftect,   which  is  greally  heightened  by  the  white 
cliffs  of  Toronto,   and    the  remarkable  high   land    over 
Presquc  Isle,   called  the   Devil's  Nose,  on  the  north  ;  the 
view    on  the  south  is  well  relieved  with  a  back  ground  pro- 
duced by  the  ridge  of  hills,  that,  after  forming  the  precipice 
for  the  cataract,  stretches  away  to  the  eastward  j  the  fmisli- 
ing  object  of  the  prospect  in  this  direction  is  a  conical  emi- 
nence towering  above  the  chain  of  heights,  called  Fifty  Mile 
lliil,  as  denoting  its  distance  from  the  town  of  Niagara.    Of 
the  many  rivers  flowing  into  Lake  Ontario,  if  the  Genesee 


v!^:m 


*  When  on  lake  Ontario,  I  was  informed  by  sundry  captains 
of  vessels,  that,  after  leaving  the  shores  a  short  distance,  the 
soundings  varied  from  75  to  89  fathoms;  seldom  so  low  as  70  or 
so  high  as  90  ;  wliicli  would  give  a  medium  depth  of  82  fathoms. 
From  evcrv  information  I  have  received,  the  bottom  of  the  lakes 
vary  considerably,  having  hills,  dales,  and  slopes,  similar  to  dry 
land ;  but  with  less  abruptness  in  the  ascents  and  descents.  Com- 
pared with  the  sinface  Ontario  is  the  deepest  of  all  the  Canadian 
lakes,  and  like  Erie  receives  its  principal  rivers  from  the  south 
shore. 

t  This  is  only  correct  as  respects  tlie  immediate  shores  ;  alon^ 
the  south  side  of  lake  Ontario  runs  a  narrow  strip  of  land,  occa- 
sionally rising  into  banks  of  30  or  40  feet  high,  and  often  low, 
and  sometimes  marshy  ;  but  four,  five  or  six  miles  from  the  shore 
the  country  rises  into  high  hills,  with  often  a  very  broken  and 
even  mountainous  aspect.  The  country  near  Sacket's  Harbor  is 
flat,  but  resting  upon  a  bed  of  limestone,  with  hills  of  con.sidera- 
hle  elevatioji  iu  the  rear. 


'  >v:va 


1L0j> 


NIAGARA   niVEK; 


t 


LET.    IX, 


l'i4' 


iind  Oswego  rivers  be  excepted,  tlipre  are  none  that  lay  elainri 
to  paHieiilar  notice,  unless  it  be  for  the  peculiarity  of  ail 
*)f  (hem  having  a  santly  bur  across  (he  entrance.  There  are 
some  fine  bays  anil  inlets,  wherein  vessels  of  every  description 
may  find  pro(ection  against  bad  weatlier.  Burlington  bay 
is  both  spacious  and  secure  ;  I)ut  these  advantages  arc  ren- 
dered of  Ii((Ie  iu)por(ance  by  its  narro>V  entrance  being  so 
shallow  as  to  admit  nothing  larger  than  boats.  Hungry 
})ay,  on  the  contrarj',  is  conspicuous,  as  affording  good  an- 
cliorage,  and  safe  shelter  aiuong  the  islands  to  siiips  of  (he 
largest  size  at  all  seasons.  York  and  Kingston  harbors,  be- 
longing to  the  EnglisI  and  Sacket*s  Harbor  to  the  Ameri- 
cans, arc  unquestionably  tiic  best  upon  tiic  lake,  as  they  pos- 
sess every  natural  requisite  ;  the  two  latter  are  strongly 
fortified,  being  the  Arsenals  tvhere  ships  of  war,  even  of  tiie 
first  rate,  haVe  been  constructed  by  both  powers,  and  fi'om 
whence  have  been  fitted  out  those  powerful  hostile  squadrons 
that  have  conferred  so  much  consequence  upon  the  naval  op- 
erations in  this  quarter.*  Very  heavy  squalls  of  wind  fre- 
fjjiilently  occurj  but  they  are  unattended  with  either  difficulty 
or  danger^  if  met  by  the  usual  precautions  every  sCaman  is 
acquainted  with» 

<<  Of  the  many  isiandsat  the  cast  end  of  Ontario,  the  Grand 
Isle,  lying  abreast  of  Kingston,  is  the  most  extensive,  and  by 
lieing  placed  at  the  commencement  of  the  Cataraqui  riv- 
er, forms  two  channels  leading  into  it,  that  bear  the 
name  of  the  North  or  Kingston  Channel,  and  the  South  or 


*  Except  the  barracks  noticed  page  72  of  this  treatise,  there 
exists  no  defensive  or  offensive  military  works  at  Sacket's 
Harbor.  The  temporary  lines  of  defence,  erected  during  the 
war,  are  now  neglected  or  removed.  It  is  a  position  witJi 
great  natural  advantages  which  might  be  made,  if  necessary,  very 
strong.  It  is  also  a  post  of  tlie  utmost  importance  to  the  U.  S. 
If  I  was  called  upon  to  point  out  which  place,  in  my  opinion,  on 
all  the  Canadian  border,  concentrated  the  most  eligible  site  for  a^ 
naval  and  military  depot,  I  would  unhesitatingly  give  the  mouth 
•f  Black  river  the  preference. 


I 


l^fiTi    IX  ] 


RIVEK    ST.    LAWUiiNti, 


105 


Carlcion  Isiland  (JliaiiiU'I.  Ca(ara(]iii,  iVont  i(s  riitratlce  to 
the  place  called  I'ciit  D-oliMlt,  a!)oui  .)*J  luiL's,  is  ahuusC  lUU'd 
wUli  one  condniiet)  iluatci'  of  sinutl  ibiaixU.  bu  nituu  i'(>ut>  an 
to  have  occuisiunei!  the  guticrul  dcuuauualiou  oiTtAiHo^lalcb.''^ 


•  Thousand  islands.  There  is  great  vagiicnoss  in  the  above 
•desciiptioii  which  leuves  llie  comuiLiiccni -iil  oCiJie  Calnruqui  un- 
defined. Indeed  it  is  very  rliiiicniU  U)  irmk  wiili  ])ieeision  tlie 
leiiniiiation  ol"  lake  OtUuiio,  or  the  eeiiimeiicerjeiii  ol"  the  Cata- 
raqui  or  i>t.  Lawrence  ri\er.  Colore  reiichijig  Ciiaiid  hlc,  a  niiin- 
her  of  smaller  islands  ciieqiier  the  Unir.dj  <>{'  the  lak(^  between 
Sfjcket*s  Harbor  and  the  eastern  extreniiy  of  the  Peninsula  of 
Prince  Edward.  The  lake  jjiadiiaiiy  coniiacls  a|>[)roa(;hi!!L'  tiiu 
>vest  end  of  Cirand  i5le,  wliero  it  io  iibotil  ten  uiiles  wide;  tiuee 
liii'.es  further  to  tlie  norlh-east,  from  Ki.'igslou  to  Cape  Yn.ceitl, 
The  distance  is  ei^lit  miles  in  a  direct  line.  l5t;!ow  Kingston,  the 
river,  or  m<n'e  correctly,  the  lake  slowly  contracts  for  about  fifty 
miles  in  a  direct  line  to  Brockvilie,  where  it  is  but  iitile  above  one 
suile  wide.  The  internu'diate  s{Klce  between  lvin;;ston  and 
Brockvilie  is  an  almost  continued  cluster  of  islands,  but  distin-> 
guished  by  very  different  characters.  Grand  island,  Carlton 
island  and  Well's  island  with  sor;e  others  in  their  vicinity,  ri^e 
lifty  or  sixty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water  with  sloping  banksj 
nnd  a  productive  soil  covered  with  limber  of  vnriotis  kinds,  of 
which  pine,  elm,  maple  and  linden  are  the  principal  speciesi 
The  banks  of  the  main  shore  aie  flat  or  rise  very  gradually  with 
a  base  of  secondary  or  floetz  rock.  The  region  known  by  the 
flistinctive  appellation  of  the  Thousand  islands  is  granitic.  The 
islands  are  mostly  small,  and  many  of  them  naked  rock  ;  pine  is 
tlie  prevalent  timber.  Tiie  banks  of  tlie  main  shore  often  pre- 
cipitous. 

A  chain  of  primitive  mountains  leaves  the  elevated  country 
Bouth-west  of  lake  George,  and  proceeding  to  the  north-west 
through  the  state  of  New- York,  between  the  waters  of  the  Oswe- 
gatchte  and  Black  livers,  cross  the  St.  Lawrence  between  King- 
ston and  Brockvilie,  and  continuing  into  Canada,  divides  the  wa- 
ters  that  flow  north-east  into  the  (Jtlawa,  from  those  which  fiow 
south-west  into  lakes  Huron  and  Ontario.  The  pa.ssage  of  the 
bt.  Lawrence  over  this  chain,  forms  the  Thousand  islands* 
Every  step  I  have  taken  on  this  stream  presents  phenomena  to 
demonstrate  ihat  this  ridge  was  once  unbroken,  and  that  in  it, 
somewhere  existed  a  cjitaract,  above  which  the  waters  of  lake 
Ontario  were  elevated  greatly  above  their  jnesent  level.  The  dis- 
ruption, or  gradual  wear  of  this  mass  of  rocks,  let  loose  the  im- 
prisoned fluid,  inundated  the  country  beJo\Yj  and  (hen,  perhaps, 
««uimcnced  the  cataiact  of  Niagarcu. 


'   X 


%    I,  •] 


»  ^f 


iO« 


lilVHR  HT.  XlWUEStE. 


[let.  IX. 


#1 


■';■'■'■ 


l'■:^ 


i 


1  i.,i' 
.1  ■  '■ 


i- 


TIse  ilislanec  luhvocrj  Kin;;s(on  and  Montreal  is  about  i90 
miles;  i!ie  ba'.j'.vs  ol'tlio  river  disjilay  a  seine  that  cannot 
iai!  to  exelto     urprize,    ^hen  the   vears  that  have  claisscd 

Tnlow  the  TiioiLsniu!  islands,  comnicnrcs  a  secondary  region 
coiisistitifi  ill  ^ici\\  \)i\rt  officliistosc  saiidstoiie,  njmii  which  oltcii 
rests  an  Jillu\iiil  d^'juisit.  In  this  nianner  is  lornied  tlie  unequal- 
JovUuiinliv  htl«»«  IJmckvillf,  ns  Inr  as  I  have  visited  the  river  !St. 
Lawrence*  Though  not  bcaiinjj  tiic  iiaiTir,  the  islands  helwoen 
]\loriisto\vn  aiul  I'lockville  aie  fonned  fVom  similar  materials 
with  thv"  Tlioiisand  i.sljinds.  Ahoul  midway,  Jjetween  and  a  little 
jui'-w  iht.ye  two  towns,  occur  the  Inst  of  tliese  granitic  islands, 
and  v.liat  is  very  .;ingu!iH-,  tiie  !»anks  of  both  shores  are  formed 
oftioct/or  schist<'sc  lock.  Innnediately  below  Krockvilie,  the 
(Canada  shore  is  liirmcd  by  a  high  and  perpendicular  ledge  of 
the  liitlcr  formation,  and  about  four  miles  above  Morristown,  tlie 
Miarjiinof  the  iivcr  is  a  ledge  of  (ijie  while  oand  stone  in  hori- 
i'.oiita!  strata.  Eelow  this  j)lace,  the  liver  is  without  islands 
fiCleeu  or  sixteen  miles,  is  Ircm  a  mile  to  one  and  hall'  mile  wide, 
villi  fliores  rising  liv  a  gcjitle  e.cclivity  from  the  water,  and  where 
(cultivated,  ii:ex|)ictit.ibly  beautiful.  The  soil  exuberantly  rich. 
aid  covered  wilii  a  growth  of '.imber,  indicative  of  extraordinary 
fertility,  such  as  white  birch,  red  maple,  sugar  tree,  elm,  linden, 
I'.cuilock,  and  while  ])ine. 

Four  miles  beiosv  Oirdensburgh,  another  group  of  islands  com- 
rience,  but  vith  a  physiognomy  totally  diP.hreiit  from  any  of  the 
]Mt  ced  iig.  This  giouj)  is  near  thirty  in  number,  of  difterent  sizes 
from  oi'.e  and  a  iuilf  fnile  to  twenty  yards  in  length,  almost  all  of 
:in  elliptical  foini,  and  lising  from  the  water  by  a  globular  swelL 
Such  of  those  islands  which  l.avt>  formerly  been  cleared  of  lim- 
Ikt.  and  wiiich  are  now  again  overgiown  by  a  neA'  generation 
of  trees,  are  incomparably  the  most  delightful  spots  I  have  eiihei" 
w:en  t)r  wliose  existence  1  could  conceive.  The  limpid  water 
that  surroiuuls  them,  clumjjs  of  trees  without  underbrush,  and 
ill  sinmner  an  air  attempei'cd  to  the  most  delicious  softness.  A 
few  d:i\s  past,  our  a}.'ent  col  Samuel  Hawkins,  gave  a.  fete 
chninpeirc  upon  one  of  them,  to  the  meml^ers  of  the  conitnissmns 
on  both  lilies  ;  the  djiy  wm,  even  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  uncom- 
monly liiK^  and  aniid  tli(>  gloves  of  aspen,  wild  cherry,  and 
liitdcn  trees,  the  Kene  seemed  more  than  earthly.  Mrs.  Hav^kins 
j)reside<',  and  in  the  bowers  of  St.  Lawrence,  recalled  the  most 
jioiisliei!  mnnntis  of  ci\i!i.'.ed  cultivated  society  in  the  crowded 
city.  At  ili(j  c'ase  of  evening,  major  Joj;«'ph  DelafieM  and  my- 
leif,  walki'd  over  the  i.'land,  and  in  full  xi'nv  ol  the  objects  which 
excited  our  feeiiiigs,  concluded  that  no  spot  on  the  globe  could 
msile  wiihin  so  ^anaI!  a  space,  more  to  please,  to  amuse  and  grati- 
IV  the  fancw 


resoi 
sent 
lure 
into 
plac 


LET.     IX.]  KIVUR  ST.  L  VWIlKNCn.  lOT 

since  llic  (irs(  setMcmrrK  oClIiIs  \)M't  ol'ilic  coiinfry  (in  ITS;,) 
arc  coiHidfred.  'i'iicv  ojsilu'aco  all  liic  (Mn!K'l!isit!ii''!il4  oi  i 
naiiieroiM  pojujlaflon,  iVjMiliJy,  ami  j^ood  euldviiiion  *  \V«  !l 
<;oustructo(I  liif^li  roads  li'a<lin|:^  td(»sc  t)  caeli  n'ulr,  \\i(!j  ol!  - 
tM'3  braiieliinp;  from  (iicn  into  (lie  itiicrioi',  fiMu'n'  t*(»miiiui>!- 
(•aJion  !)otli  ea-^v  and  fxiK'diduiiH.  whiUliiu'  nataiMous  ioadc  I 
l»al(caiix  and  rafts  in(u'ssan(I_v  passiij.u;  up  a!>d  «lo\va  i'toui  t!i,» 
hcgiiininf;  of  spriniij  iinhl  (ho  lattoj*  end  of  autumn,  donioji- 
sti'a(e,  unequivocally,  a  vory  ('X(rnsiv<^  cotniniMrial  inU'i- 
coJiJ'so.  I'JK!  islands,  the  shoals,  the  rajiid-i,  \\\l\\  <'onfriv;^n- 
ces  for  passing  thoni,  foi'm  alfoj^ctljcr  a  succos-ddM  (irnovi!- 
lios  that  gives  pleasure  while  it  L*ro:s(rs  aslojii^hnu'jn." 

<»  IJeforo  reaching  Montreal,  liie  la!;es  St.  Fran'-Is.  Sf. 
Louis,  and  ties  Montagues,  present  themselves  :  (!iey  do  not 
adntit  of  comparison  with  those  already  noticed,  and.  ea.» 
indeed,   only  be  tonsidcred  as  so    many   \videninj;s  of  ilui 


*  The  rapid  change  macL  upon  an  tiuciiltivated  country  i)v  tin; 
introduction  of  the  necessary  aits  of  civilized  lifc^  never  diil  re- 
ceive a  more  Uiking  exeniplificatiou,  than  is  now  ^dven  by  th»: 
left  shore  «f  the  St.  Lawrence  below  the  Thousand  ishuiih,  as  ffi ' 
down  as  Hamilton.  Fields  joining  t(>  fields,  farni-houses,  wil'i 
Iheir  most  attractive  decoratiun,  garden,  meadow,  and  orclian', 
smile  along  tiiis  truly  elej^aut  siope.  Viliasjes  with  many  of  tht* 
highest  traits  of  cuLivated  life,  aiul  with  all  the  liist  principUs  <'i 
civilization,  rise  along  this  once  desolate  wasLe.  Biockvi!!* , 
Prescott,  and  Johnstown,  are  now  what  were  once  New- York  an  1 
Philadelphia,  what  were  oiice  Quebec  and  Montreal.  aJid  jangiii  j 
farther  back  in  the  lapse  of  ages,  what  was  once  Alliens,  Iloun  , 
Paris  and  London. 

Many  times,  when  the  rising  and  setting  sun  spread  a  glow  oi' 
goldeii  lustre  over  this  attractive  picture,  have  [  demanded  <>' 
myself,  was  this  country  a  glooiny  forest  scene  only  live  and  thirty 
years  past  ?  The  rich  lustre  of  harvest  would  have  answere*', 
that  upon  this  expanse  the  labor  of  ages  had  been  expended  ,  bii!; 
history  faithfully  points  to  the  contrary.  In  178.5  the  ax  Iii>t 
resounded  on  the?.e  shores ;  ami  now,  18  18,  the  world  cjxn  pre- 
sent but  few,  if  any  regions  of  equal  extent,  wliere  all  that  can  al- 
lure the  eye,  or  gratil'y  the  mind,  can  be  lonnd  more  condensed 
into  one  view.  Savage  life  has  disappeare  I  (i>r  ever,  and  i;i  its 
place  now  stands  the  residence  of  the  instrncU'd  uimt. 


m 


<     I 


.*«. 
..i< 


'\ll^ 
'.'ij!'<! 


1C8 


IJIVEK  ST.  LAWKEVf  E. 


[lET.   IX. 


I.   , 


;i  ' 


liver. 'fJ'  Th(7  arc  of  no  {;roat  drjuli,  hut  form  an  agrcenWc 
vu'.irlv,  bv  linking  \n\u\y  proCJy  islands  s('a((i'ri'dal)out  Iheni. 
Si.  Francis  is  -Zb  niiics  icjig  hy  five  and  a  half  miles  broad  ; 
flic  hliori's  ill  i-oiho  itlaces  are  marshy,  as  lliey  do  not  risu 
ii;ii(h  »!)ovi'  (li«'  hvt'l  of  ihe  water.  St.  Louis  and  Deux 
]\^mtai;nes,  are  foi  nsed  at  ibe  junction  of  the  Ottawa  with 
the  St.  Lawrence;  tlielirsi  is  12  miles  lon^  b}'  6  broad  ;  the 
httlir  is  ver^  iriT;;ulur,  and  in  its  uholc  length  2^  miles,  but 
\ai'}in,i;'  in  bread  I  h  from  1  to  G  miles. 

«» At  (be  eoniluenee  of  (he  t\io  rivers  are  the  islands  of 
Montreal,  isle  Jesus,  Bizarre,  and  Perrot ;  the  first  is  pro- 
bubly  (he  most  beautiful  spot  of  all  Lower  Canada.  On  the 
south  side  Oi' this  island  is  the  eit.v  of  the  same  name,  and  its 
convenient,  port.  580  miles  from  the  gulf  of  St.  LawrWiCe,  to 
which  bhijjs  of  six  hundred  tons  can  ascend  with  very  little 
dillieulfj.f     On  the  north-west  lies  Isle  Jesus,  that,  hy  its 


!.'" 


*  If  llie  f'lst  spiiitgs  that  afterwards  form  the  rivers  west  of 
lake  Snperior,  art'  lakon  into  the  account  then  lake  Superior  it- 
solfis  iiotliiiifj  more  than  a  dilatation  of  the  waters  as  tliey  areag- 
pri^ated  in  descendillj^  from  their  original  source.  Lakes  Huron, 
Iviiciiigan,  Erie,  and  Oiiiaiio,  ditfer  in  nothing  but  comparative 
extent,  from  those  of  St.  Francis  and  St.  Louis  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence river;  from  lake  (lieoriJC  and  Champlain  in  the  Richelieu  :; 
from  lake  Pepin  in  the  Missis.sijpi,  and  from  lake  Leman  in  the 
Khone.  Ihe  smallest  brook,  presents  all  the  features  of  the 
largest  river,  where  the  plain  has  too  little  inclination  to  admit 
direct  descent,  a  pond  or  lake  is  formed,  and  where  the  descent 
bec(»ines  rapid,  a  tlowing  stream  is  the  consequence.  From  these 
simple  jrincipies,  arise  all  the  features  perceivable  from  the  dimp- 
linppooi.  lo  ihv>  \ast  expan.se  of-lake  Superior,  or  the  Caspian  sea  ; 
from  the  rij^pling  riii  to  he  overwhelming  torrents  of  the  Missis- 
sippi aii'l  St.  L.'iWieme  All  .streams  are,  in  fact,  composed  of 
chains  whose  links  are  themselves  alternately  lakes  and  cataracts, 
the  cause  of  the  existence  ol' the  former,  is  a  greater  approach  to 
ihe  curve  of  the  real  sphere  ;  the  latter  is  produced  by  an  in- 
clination of  more  or  less  obliquity  to  that  curve  superficies. 

t  Compared  with  any  other  stieam  of  the  globe,  the  St.  Law- 
rei.ce,  when  fiee  fioni  ice,  certainly  affords  the  best  ship  naviga- 
tion. No  other  river  <:u)  be  ascended  so  far  wi(h  equal  vessels, 
and  with  so  li'.lle  impediment.  The  only  streams  that  can  com- 
pete with  tiiC  St.  Lawrence,  are  the  Oronoquc  and  Rio  ie  la 


XET.   IX.] 


Riven   ST,   LAWURXCE. 


109 


posiMon*  formrj  two  otiirp  clianncls  of  a  HiodcrnfR  b5'ra<lcli, 
one  culled  la  ilivierc  dcs  Praii'ies,  ami  the  other  lu  Riviere 
do  St.  Jean,  or  Jesus.     They  are  boih  niivigahle  foe  ho;i(s 
or  rafts,  and  unite  a^uin  with  the  main  river  :tt   linaf  lic  V 
Tale,  or  east  end  of  Montreal  inland.     From  this  city  the  na- 
vigation assunr'.  a  character  of  more  consequence  than  wirat 
it  does  ahove,  beinj^  carried  on  in  ships  and  decked   'essels  of 
all  classes.      In  the  distance  from  hence  to  Quebec,  180 
miles,  the  impediments  to  vessels  of  lar^^e   tonnage  sailing 
either  up  or  down  are  not  many,  and  may  be  overcome  with 
much  ease,  if  it  be  judged  expedient  that  iheir  cargoes  should 
be  so  conveyed  in  preference  to  transporting  them  in  small 
crailt.     On  either  side  the  prospect  is  worthy  of  admiration. 
The  different  seigniories,  ati  in  the  highest  state  of  improve- 
inent  that  the  agriculture  of  the  country  will  admit  of,  denote 
both  affluence  and  industry.    I'he  views  are  always  pleasing 
and  often  beautiful,  although  the  component  parts  of  them 
do  not  possess  that  degree  of  grandeur  which  is  |MM'eeivahle 
below  Quebec.    Numerous  villages  built  around  a  handsome 
Atone  church,  seem  to  invite  the  traveller's  altcnilon,  while 
single  houses  and  farms  at  agreeable  distances  appear  to 
Keep  up  a  regular  chain  of  communication.     In  fact,  who- 
ever passes  from  one  city  to  the  other,  whether  by  wsiter  or 
by  land,  will  not  fail  to  bnve  bis  senses  highly  gratified,  and 
to  nipct  with  many  subjects  worthy  both  of  observation  and 


•I 


, 


)..» 


r> 


Plnte,  both  in  South  America.  The  Am.i7,on  anH  IVIississipni  ran 
neither  present  so  much  facility  for  internal  comnirrce,  as  far  as 
the  ingress  of  large  ships  is  concerned.  On  tlie  eastern  contin- 
ent, the  Elbe,  Garonne,  Wolga,  and  (ianffos,  are  the  rivers  that 
admit  the  highest  descer'  of  ships,  neither  of  wlucli  are  equal  in 
that  respect,  to  the  Huflson  or  the  Delaware. 

The  beauty  of  the  St.  Lawrence  islands  has  been  noticed  ;  that 
of  Montreal  has  the  preference  of  greater  extent  than  any  ctlier 
with  equal  elegance  of  natural  physiognomy.  The  scenn  v 
around  this  city  is  on  a  va§t  scale,  heing  hoinided  by  monntains? 
more  than  eighty  miles  distant,  uniting  in  itself,  a  most  attrattivw 
locnif  with  a  position  equally  favorable  for  external  and  internal 
coiumerco^  it  now  contains  25,000  people. 

13 


r^r. 


no 


Kni:K  ST.  i.A>YUi:Nrfc. 


[I.KT.    IX. 


LBT. 


■  It  • 


IV  .   >■'■ 


I  1 


j\'n*'('<ion.  A')OiK  4'  iiiil<»s  1k-1ow  Mond'oai,  on  tlic  ^ou<li 
i'u\i'.  ity  (III'  l<»vfii  oi'  \\iiliaiii  llcni'v,  of  Sorrel,  Ijiiiit  '.it  iiie 
rnd'Mnei'  lA'  iUv.  rivoi  l{ic!i«ii('n  into  (lie  M(.  liiuuriice.  not 
i'ui'  iVont  viiu'li  (he  ladcr  (tjK'cads  in(o  anudicr  lake,  (lie  lust 
ill  il-i  pro^u'an  (owariis  (he  s«  H  is  ealled  H(.  l*etei'!>,  is  Zb 
l.illcA  li.n;^;  uisd  i>  hi oad  ;  like  >l  ol'  (he  olhn-s,  (hiu  lias  a 
j;ionp  oI"  iriliinds  (oveiinj;  ahoiit  V  miles  of  (he  wedUTii  |)ar(  ; 
Iteiweeii  (hem  (wo  dihliiicl  ehanneb  ai'e  roriiicii,  (he  one  (o 
ilie  t»'»n(h  hi'inj;  (lie  (lee|M>i  niitl  eleaiest  is  eonse(jnei;(l^  (he 
l;es(  lor  hh\\'t,  'J  he  ImoUs  on  eaeh  ^i^le  are  vir.y  low,  >vi(li 
tliojis  htrcichin;;'  tiOin  (hem  to  a  eon»i«Ii-t'ahle  (]is(anee,  hu 
i!ja{  univ  a  narrow  j)ah»<.t|;'e,  whoije  i^enerul  (!ep(h  is  from  iti 
10  j»  {ie(,  IS  l>  {'(  niiohsii  iie(e(].  Ahou(  i.'^  niiles  IVoiii  A>  iliiam 
Henry  ()ii(he  nor(ii  sldr,  u(  (he  n:ou(h  ofdie  riur  S(.IMuiii-iee, 
^landh  (he  (ov>n  ol'  'J'hree  iiivers,  the  (hiid  in  rank  vidiiii 
ihe  j)ro>iiiee.     A(  iUh  [ilaee  (lie  (ide  tea6e»  en(iicl^>,*  und^ 

*  (.)»•  ill  other  words,  (fie  (own  of  Three  Rivers,  !s(ands  a(  (lie 
1ir;ul  ol"  tide  water  in  (lie  Si.  Kawiir.ce.  h  it  is  UlO  miles  iVoin 
(^iiehiH-  to  Moiiirrr.l,  and  .0  ('10111  lh(;  latter  to  Throi*  Rivers,  than 
i1m  (i '<  s  Iiou  t.'  miles  above  (^uchte,  or  nearly  400  miles  i'roni 
llu' L'tdi'oC  St  1  awreiice,  and  an  iinecjualled  distanee  into  the 
ji.'liiioi  of  this  01  any  other  part  vi'  the  eaith.  Like  as  in  the 
J  Itidsoii,  the  tules  in  the  St.  Lawrence,  jyass  tliioufi;h  a  chain  of  pri- 
jiiitivomouiuaiiis,  upon  llie  1  uins  of  v.  hieh  stands  Qiul)ec.     As 

3  have  ht  lore  ob.<ei\<.'d  ci'  the  chain  \\hieh  passes  the  bt.  Law- 
jence,  aiul  'i>rnis  (he  Thoiisand  Islands,  1  repeat  resjiecliug  that 
A  liieli  tra\c..-\s  the  ^.ame  iiver  nrar  Quebec,    (hat  it  v. as  once 

4  OMiimiotif;  and  eoufnu'd  the  waters  al'ove  it,  ibrming  a  lake, 
vhith  niiisi  l.ave  been  diaimd  by  some  oi' those  operations  of  na- 
Inie.  whiel.  iiijjiose  la.''tii'g  changes  iij>on  our  globe. 

'•  \\  I. en  ihis  oj>eniiig  was  made  by  the  (bice  of  the  included 
vat(^r,  the  hin;'  ^^as  laid  hj'.ie  on  loth  fides  of  lliat  )i\er  (St. 
T.awuMice,)  as  far  as  St.  lUjiis,  inchidiiig  (lit  islands  of  IMontreal 
jiiid  Jisiis;  and  by  the  same  ejiera  ion,  thelai;don  both  sides  of 
lake  Cliamplaiii  wuidd  l-.e  drained  as  far  as  'fieonderoga  ami 
\V'!!iuhari.'' — ])v.  S.  L.  ^)IitchiU't>  A  ties  un  Ciivici-'b  Thtvri,if 
ilw  Efi/tli,  ])a;^e  .19  1, 

'J  his  antimi  lake  was  not  hounded  l>y  St.  Regis;  at  tliat  ^illfige 
tliere  exists  iio  hnidof  any  coiisideralle  elevation  above  the  lixel 
4.f  tile  v;iier  in  the  ii\ei'  that  could  .'■et  l.ouiuls  to  liie  inchuied  lake. 
1  have  already  oLm  r\(;d  that  no  cnirent  t)f  any  consequence  exists 
in  the  Si.  Lav.iciice,  ficm  lake  Lrie  to  tl.c  lt\^ei•  exlrcn.itv  of  the 


per, 


lime 
pro( 
ahovi 
If 


mg 
leav 
a  re; 
far 

r 

in  t 
vo! 


a.c: 


iii 


LET.    IX.] 


niVEU   ST.    LAWHK.NCK. 


Ill 


iiulroil,  h  not  miK'Ii  CvU  at  srvcral  iiiilci  Ik  low  i( :  ft  om 
Iicnoo  (hero  is  seaifc  nii^  vuiiiilion  in  iho  ^lural  n!*|:n  t  ui* 
llu;  S<.  liUWiTricc,  uiiiil  airivini; »(  ilic  IJiohilldi  raj.-i.:  (ulioiit 
5:Z  luiKs,)  where  ils  Ijed  iii  so   iituc.'i  eoiiirucdd  or  ohsduef- 


Thoiisnnd  islnnds;  conioqiiently  iho  present  <'r|)n\<;.sioii  of  ihc 
river  eomineiices  at  tliHl  plju»;.  'Iho  full  in  !St.  Lhwhik  v,  \i 
I'lvm  tJic  hi'giiiniiii,'  of  its  ciinciif,  to  li'lc  water  ^31  fit  i,  (^st  <  my 
letter  to  ('harlc'S  (i.  Hain»'S,  Kskj.)  tliertfoie  if  aii^  impiMlii-.u'iit 
of  tJiat  h('i!,^ht  was  now  raised  at  Qiu.'hic,  tho  accunndatr*!  wait  is 
would  a{>aiii  assiune  a  level  to  llie  west  oihI  of  Inko  Ontario.  It  i{ 
probable  that  tiio  outer  or  Qiu-JH-e  barrier,  yielded  l>< Curo  liio  ii;;- 
j»er,  or  that  of  the  Thoiisajhl  islamis^  and  that  a  eularmt  ol"  vejy 
roiisidcrable  elevation,  existed  lor  a  great  lehi^fth  of  lime  iieiu- 
where  IJrockville  now  stands.  The  water*!,  by  tliei»-  abiasj)!', 
linally  cut  the  iinier  gianilic  chain,  ami  a  depression  in  ti.e  (U  pi  i 
and  great  contraction  in  the  extent  of  lake  Ontario  was  llic  ehi.et. 
It  appears  from  the  plienomena  exhibited  by  ntost  rivers,  tint 
schistose  secojidary  yields  more  slowly  to  llieju  tion  of  v^aU-r,  tiaii 
do  primitive  rocks,  thongh  the  latter,  are  in  liitt,  harder  in  llieir 
texture",  tinui  liie  former.  A  stream  glides  smoothly  o\er  a  I)»  d 
of  horizontal  slate,  without  prt)  Inciitu'  much  eilect:  priuiiiivo 
rocks  l)y  their  fractureil  surtiice,  oppose  points  (>f  contaet  to  t'u; 
falling  lluid  which  imperceptibly  le;us  away  the  broken  fiaj,- 
ment.sof  rock,  and  finally  gains  a  smooth  uiiiiiterrn|)trd  eliaiiiie'. 
All  the  rapids  ill  t!ic  St.  Lawrence  rnsli  over  smooth  be(!s  of  ih/et/, 
limestone,  or  sandstone,  which  have  prevented  the  stream  (Voni 
producing  a  greater  eilect  upon  the  incumbcj.t  p:  ntive  sUala 
above,  towards  lake  Ontario. 

If  a  similar  eilect  had  been  produced  i;i  th<?  St.  I^awrence  tint 
has  taken  plac«'  in  the  ilinlson,  tlien  would  the  Allanlio  ti(i<  » 
have  llowed  to  Niagara.  'I'ho  metlium  dept!i  of  lake  Onlaiio  n 
about  '32  fathoms,  or  VJ2  feet,  an>]  as  we  have  alieady  seen,  the 
diderence  of  level  between  the  surfjce*  of  lake  Ontario,  and  titlj 
water  is  231  ;  of  coinse  the  bottom  of  lake  Ontaii  >  is  generall/ 
below  tide  water  26\  feet.  It  i.i  now  evident  that  if  the  interven- 
ing barrier  was  broken,  tho  lake  would  agaisi  depress  j3  i  feet  and, 
leave  immense  spaces  dry  land  which  are  yet  sn!>merged  ;  tliougii 
a  residue  would  remain  which  would  still  huve  a  ileplh  ef  2i5>  feel, 
iiir  Greater  than  is  now  the  case  in  lake  trie. 

The  breadth,  strength,  auvl  texture  of  the  composing  materials 
in  the  St.  Lawrence,  however,  renders  a  farther  I'epression  of  iis 
volume  the  work  of  unlimited  ages,  and  compared  with  ll.o 
epocha  in  human  history,  the  present  order  of  things  in  that 
<iuarter  may  becor.idered  perpetiia!.  No  eaithqi.ake,  short  of 
acouvabiou  which  wjuLl  disrupt  tlie  eailli  to  iu  ceutet  could  re- 


:}'i 


■yii 


It 


llii 


iV 


rttw.n  ST.  LAiiVRFBros. 


[XRT.    IX. 


i, ' 


rd  bjk' liii;,'o  m.issc'M  of  r<H'k,  ns  (o  leiivo  hut  a  viry  narrow 
I'lianiii-I,  MhririMnt  vUU  liile  (hero  is  mo  groni  a  dcscont*  (liat 
irtiicli  (iiudori.  and  a  projier  (itno  of  (lie  ebb  is  ncccHsar^r  (ii 
yufis  lbro(:;>;!i  it ;  n(  i\\v  end  ul'the  rapid.  thtMe  is  a  good  an- 
('hon{;r.  wbck'c  vrRsclH  can  wait  (heir  eonveiiient  opi)or(uni- 
lv.  Vuuu  Mon(real.  (huH  Car,  (he  banks  are  of  a  vcr^  mo- 
dera(e  eleva(ioii,  and  iinifonitly  level,  but  hereabout  (hey 
ai'<-  much  higher,  and  grathial)^  increase  in  (heir  approach 
10  ^licbre.  nndl  ihev  a((ain  (he  heiglit  of  Ca[)c  Diamond* 
upon  Mhicli  ihe  eiiy  is  hiiil(.  At  this  capital  of  th«  pro- 
vince and  seat  of  goveviiiiien(,  (h<'re  in  a  most  excellent  purl 
and  a  capacious  buHin,  wherein  the  j^ieatcxt  depth  of  water 
is  ^S  rathoioH,  with  a  (idc  rising  IVoni  17  to  18,  and  a(  the 
f>prin,:;;s.  from  Zi  Ui'2\  re<>(.  From  whence,  and  from  I'oint 
Levi  on  (lie  MOuth  shore,  one  of  the  most  striking  paisorantio 
•>iew>^,  perhaps,  in  (lie  whole  world,  oflTors  i(scU'  (o  notice  ;. 
the  HHSCTnblage  of  of)j'>eis  is  so  grand,  and  (hough  na(urally« 
ret  appear  ho  artitieiallv  eonlras(ed  wi(h  each  odier.  (hat 
ihcy  mingle  surprize  with  (he  j^ra(ifieationof  ever}'  beholder. 
Tiic  capital  u|'on  the  summit  of  the  cape,  the  river  S(. 
<yi)ni'ic8.  flowing  for  a  gica(  distance,  Ihrongh  a  valley, 
abounding  in  natural  beauties,  (he  falls  of  JVIontniorenc},  th«i 
island  of  Orleans,  and  (he  well  cultivated  sc((lemen(s  on  all 
sides,  form  (ogc(her  a  coup  d*  eil,  that  might  enter  into 
<»nmpe(i(ion  with  (he  mos(  romandc.  At  the  bsisin,  the  SI. 
Lawi-ence  is  (wo  miles  across,  and  coudnues  increasing  in 
brciidth  nniil  i(  enters  (he  gi:lf  of  (he  same  name,  where, 
from  Cape  iiu^ier  (o  (he  Mingan  sc( dement  oq  the  Labra-* 

move  such  enormous  iriasso*!.  and  if  such  a  catastrophe  ever  does 
occur,  rtn  enliic  chniiffi'  will  c)i?iie  in  rivers  and  lakes,  and  pro- 
•rlnco  n  new  plirsiognomy  or  the  fnitli's  sui/'ace  I  have  long 
been  of  opinion,  li'fii  the  accideiilal  neency  of  earthquakes  and 
volcanoes,  has  been  ovnrntod,  whilst  the  slow,  but  constant  in- 
flnence  of  water  has  met  with  too  little  attention  from  philoso- 
plieis  and  naluin'ists.  Tl.is  snhjcct  will  aenin  come  in  review 
when  we  are  exapiinin^  tlie  features  of  lake  Erie  andNipgata 
river. 


Wl 


&ET.    IX.] 


RiVSm   IT.   LAMHENCft. 


lis 


Hnr  flhorts  it  in  verj  near  105  niili'fl  wide.     A  liUic  Ik>Iow  ihr> 
<>i(y  in  llic  iiile  of  Di'leaim,  pitieed  in  (he  n)i<lwnj«  eonMcquent- 
}y   roi'niinf<:   luo  chHnnrU ;  (lie  one  (o  (lie  south  iH  alwiiys 
UMcd  «i*  ships,  (he  Hhore  on  tlia(  Hide  is  hi|;h,  and  on  (he  op- 
jtosite^  in  some  piaeoH,  it  is  even  inountuirious,  but   in  bo(h> 
exinniei}  wril  Hctd.d.  and  th'>  huids  in   sncii  a  hi;;h  s(ate  of 
improvement,    that  u  Iarju;e  traet  in   (ho  vieini',y  of  Hivieru 
dii   Sud,    in   (iimiliarly  eiiiled    (he  granar.)  of  (lie  piovinee. 
]}e.yond  (he  island  ol*  OHeans  are  si'veral   <;(hers,  as  (joosj^ 
inhuid.  Cfane  island,  and     anv  Kmall'  i  ones  :  thcMe  (wo  iiic 
tolrrahly    well  cultivated,   bat  the  rest   are  ne^h>c(ed.     At 
Jlivieje  du  bud,  the  ^reat  river  is  increased  to  elevt  n  mile*! 
in  wi<lih,  and  (!ie  country  that  adjoii.s   it,  cannot  be  easily 
riviitled  in   Ms  general  appearance.     The  great  number  of 
chure)i^8,  (elegriijdi  tttadons  and  vilhiges*  whose  houses  are* 
uitnost  aiwa      »l  iiened,  are  so  well  exUibited  by  the  dark 
contrast  of  (he  tliick  woods  covering  the  rising  grounds  be- 
hind them  up  to  their  8ummi(s,  and  die  terminaiion  so  com- 
phMi'ly  denned  by  the  distant   range    of    loHy  nu)un(ainH 
forming  ihe  boundary  before     oticed,  that  very  few  land- 
ftcitpes  will  be  found  ac(ually  sui>erior  to  it.     Beyond  Rivier« 
du  Sod,  is  a  channel  named  the  Traverse,  which  deserves 
mention  from  (he  circumstance  of  (he  river  being  here  thir- 
teen miles  across;  yet  (he  Isli;  nux    Coiidres,  the  shoal  of 
8(.  Roche,  and  nno(her  called  the  English  Bank,  in(frrupt 
the  fair  way  so  much,   that  this  passage,  which  is  the  usual 
one  the  pilots  choose,  jh  not  more   than  from  1700  to  1800 
yards  be(ween   (he  two  buoys  that    mark  (he  edge   iK  ihc 
Hlioals  ;  it  is  the  most  intricate  part  of  (he  river  below  ^ne- 
f)ee,  the  currents  are  numerous,   iri-egular  and  very  strong, 
nn  which   large  ships  must  consult  (he  proper  (ime   of  (ho 
tide  (o  pass  i(  wi(hout  accident.  On  (he  north  shore  between 
the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  and  the  main  there  is  another  channel, 
but  (he  current  is  so  rapid,  (he  depth  of  water  so  great,  and 
the  hoUljng  ground  so  bad  in  ea!>e  of  being  obliged  (n  anchor 
within  it.  that  pilo(s  always  give  the  preference  to  running 


■'-  '.Vi^'^i- 


Hi 


KIVEU    ST.   XAV.'SBNCB. 


[let.  It. 


Lax. 


*     7"     ■*  :1 


.i-T 


..R: 


tlirouj^lt  tlic  Travoi'se.  A^ot  <ho  smallest  diflicully  will  evei* 
bo  liiund  in  iiiiikib^  this  p-issajjc  rood,  if  (ho  biL'urim^n  and 
direotions  I'.iu  down  \mm  iny  topo^^rapjieiil  man  bo  dul;)'  al- 
icoilcii  <o.  Passing  the  Traverse,  a  very  agreeable  vicNV  ol' 
tho  3etUen»en(s  of  the  bay  of  St.  Paul,  enelosc.l  willii:!  :;;: 
amphitheatre  of  very  hi,i;'lii  hMls,  and  the  well  cultivated  Isle 
anx  Coudres  at  its  entrance,  presents*  itself.  Ccntliiiinj^ 
down  the  river,  the  next  in  bneeessi(Mi  are  tlio  islands  of 
Kamourasea,  the  Pilgrims,  Hare  Isi^md,  and  thi;  cluster  of 
small  ones  neai'  it,  nan.vd  the  Biv.ndy  Pots,  these  ai'-  reck- 
oned 103  miles  from  Quebi-c.  and  well  known  a^  tlio  ren- 
dezvous, M'here  the  merchant  ships  collect  to  sa'l  wiJl\  con- 
voy. From  hence,  at  no  great  disUmee,  is  Green  island,  on 
which  is  light-house,  where  a  light  is  shewn  from  sun  set  to 
sun-rise,  between  tju'  li»th  of  April  to  the  lOlh  of  'Decem- 
ber. Near  Grcon  ^slund  is  Red  island,  and  abrtast  of  it  on 
the  northern  shoi  e  is  the  mouth  of  the  river  Saguenay,  re- 
markable even  in  America  for  the  immense  volume  of  wa- 
ter it  pours  into  the  St.  Lawrence.  Proceeding  onwards  is 
Bic  Island,  153  miles  from  Quebec,  a  point  that  ships  al- 
i^ays  endeavour  to  make  on  account  of  its  good  anchorage, 
as  well  as  being  the  place  where  men  of  war  usually  wait 
the  coming  down  of  the  merchantmen  \  next  to  Bic  island, 
is  the  Isle  St.  Barnabe,  and  a  little  farther  on  the  Point  au:c 
Peres.  From  this  point  the  river  is  pei'fectly  clear  to  the 
j^uh,  and  the  pilots  being  unnecessary  any  longer,  hero  give 
uptkeir  charge  of  such  as  are  bound  outwards,  and  receive 
Ihoso  destiui'd  upwards.  Below  Point  anx  Peres,  are  two 
V(ii7  extraordinary  mountains  close  to  each  other,  called  the 
i?aps  of  ?t!a{ane,  and  nearly  opposite  them  the  bold  antl 
lof(y  promontory  of  Mount  Pelee,  where  the  river  is  little 
more  than  23  r.iiles  wide,  but  the  coast  suddenly  stretches 
alr.iosi  northerly,  so  uuich,  (hat  at  the  seven  islands,  it  is 
increased  to  7.)  mih's.  The  sefdements  on  the  south  side 
reach  do\>n  thus  far,  but  hereabjuts,  (hey  may  be  consiuer- 
ed  to   (I'rmini.t?,  as  to  llie  eastward  of  capo  Chat,  the  pro- 


hz^'.  IX.] 


BIVEB   ST.    lAAVRENtE 


115 


gress  of  industry  is  no  lonj^er  visible  j  on  (he  noHh  side,  (Iio 
vullivated  landni  extend  only  to  Mallbay.  In  the  river  itself 
notUlnv^,  ((iU't'ier)  chtinis  our  attention,  cxeept  the  separation 
of  its  shores  to  the  dlstanee  already  mentianed,  from  cape 
Hosier  to  the  P.lingnn  settlement. 

»•  I  uiust  s'ill  trepuss  upon  the  patience  of  my  readers  long 
enoui^h  to  mention,  that  the  observations  hither  made,  apply 
onl\  to  one  part  of  the  yoar^  and  also,  to  notice,  that  from 
the  hc^hvunf^  of  December,  until  the  niiddii?  of  April,  the 
"water  ( cmniunication  is  totally  suspended  by  the  frost. 
During;  this  period,  the  river  from  Quebec  to  Kingston,  and 
bc'twffMi  the  great  lukes,  except  the  Niagara  and  the  rapids^ 
is  wholly  irozet)  q|j^er>  The  lakes  themselves,  are  never  en- 
lir»rly  covered  With  ice,  but  it  usually  shuts  up  all  the  bays 
and  ):ihMs,  and  extends  many  miles  towards  their  ♦icntres. 
B«':ow  Quelx.c  it  is  not  frozen  over,  but  the  force  of  the  tides 
inc'-ssitn'lv  detaches  the  ice  from  the  shores,  and  such  im- 
mouse  uiasses  are  kept  in  continual  agitation  by  the  iiux 
and  reilux,  that  navigation  is  totally  impracticable  in  these 
months.  But  though  for  this  length  of  winter,  the  land  and 
water  are  so  nearly  identified,  the  utility  of  the  river,  if  it  be 
diminished,  is  far  from  being  wholly  destroyed,  for  its  sur- 
face still  offers  the  best  route  for  land  carriage,  (if  the  me- 
taphor can  be  excused  ;)  and  tracks  are  soon  marked  out  by 
which  a  more  expeditious  intercourse  is  maintained  by  ve- 
hicles of  transport  of  all  descriptions  than  it  would  be  pos- 
bible  to  do  on  the  established  roads,  at  this  season  so  dcejdy 
covered  with  snow,  and  which  are  available  until  the  ap- 
proach of  spring  makes  the  ice  porous,  and  warm  springs 
occasioning  large  Aaws,  render  it  unsafe.  >Vhen  this  altera^ 
tion  takes  place,  it  soon  breaks  up,  and  by  the  beginning  of 
May,  is  either  dissolved  or  carried  of  by  the  current.* 


:,'  X  ^ 
,fi,.  * 


*  This  can  only  be  correct  in  common  years,  as  ijistauccs  do 
occur  of  the  ice  between  Montreal  and  Qiitbec  reuiainiug  uiler 
llie  Inst  ol"  May.  The  ice  in  tlie" Hudson  river  breaiss  up  ahNayti 
{iooAicr  ll.uu  in  iLc  lower  part  ol'  St.  La'Aicncc,  and  even  in  Iht 


f>  .  '.- 


116 


KxVRR   ST.    lAWREXCIL. 


[let.   IX. 


■.''■■ 


'•^'•S^-'^l 


lyvMi 


i-0\  ''^ 


«<  Tlic  cfnir  of  Si.  Lawrence,  that  receives  the  waters  of 
this  giganiKi  rivor,  is  formed  between  the  western  part  of 
Newfoundland,  the  eastern  nhores  of  liabrador,  the  eastern 
eKtremity  of  the  province  of  New  Brunswick,  part  of  the 
province  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  the  island  of  Cape  Breton. 
It  communicates  with  the  Atlantic  ocean  hy  three  difTcrent 
passa}j;es,  viz  :  on  the  north  hy  the  straits  of  Belleisle  hctween 
Labrador  and  Newfoundland  ;  on  the  south-east  hy  the  pas- 
sage from  cape  Ray  ;  the  south-west  extremity  of  the  lat- 
ter island,  and  the  north  cape  of  Breton  Island  ;  and  lastly 
by  the  narrow  channel  named  tlie  p;ul  of  Canso,  that  divides 
rape  Breton  from  Nova  Scotia.  The  distance  from  cape 
Breton  to  cape  Ray  is  79  leagues,  and  from  Nova  Scotia  to 
J/abrador  one  hundred  and  six." 

[Bouchelte''s  Canada,  page  32 — 55. 

It  has  already  been  observed  that  the  St.  Lawrence  was 
rather  a  strait  than  a  river  ;  below  Quebec  it  assumes  more 
the  character  of  a  hay,  than  either  that  of  a  strait  or  river. 
In  such  rivers  as  the  St.  Lawrence.  Hudson,  Delaware,  Sus- 
quehanna, Bio  de  la  Plate,  and  Elbe,  it  is  very  diflieult  IQ 
determine  where  the  river  ceases,  and  the  bay  commences. 
Kxcept  width,  no  essential  change  in  the  ordinary  features 
of  the  stream  of  the  St.  L-awrence  takes  place  below  Que- 
bec. It  is  perfectly  similar  at  the  Island  of  Orleans,  and 
opposite  Cape  Rosier. 

Amonji;''t  the  most  interesting  problems  suggested  by  a  re- 
view of  this  mighty  river,  is  the  comparative  quantity  of 
Avater  contained  in  its  volume  or  discharged  at  its  mouth. 
No  river  of  tiiis  ghibe  can  diifer  so  much  in  the  mass  of 
contained  fluid  and  its  expenditure  as  the  St.  Lawrence.  I 
have  already  given  a  table  of  the  area  of  this  river  and  its 


r-'"':  • 


former,  tbc  ire  not  iinfrequeiitly  continues  firui  lale  in  April,  as 
vas  the  case  in  1818,  llie  present  year.  The  occurrence  of  rain 
has  the  crealcst  agoucy  in  producing  the  removal  of  ice  in  spring, 
in  any  river  siilyect  to  be  frozen  in  winter. 


X.ET.   IX.] 


RIVER  ST.  LAWRE3FCE. 


117 


lakes,  expressed  in   square  miles  ;  and  liavc  also  observed 
Oiat  the   depth  of  the  lakes  was  very  unequal,  and  difficult 
to  reduce  to  a  medium.     AVilhout  pretending  to  a  very  strict 
aeeumey,  I  will  ende.ivor  to  estimate  the  quantity  of  water 
contained  in  the  St.  liawrencc   and  its  lakes,  assuming  my 
former  superficies  as  data  for  the  surface,  and  estimating 
the   depth  from  the  best  information   in  my   reach.     It  ap> 
pears  from  the  united  information   of  all  those    Mho  have 
made  tlie  necessary  experiments,   that   lakes  Superior  and 
Huron  are  vast,  and  in  some  places  unfathomable  gulfs ;  that 
of  ail  the  great  lakes  that  of  Erie  is  the  most  shallow,  not 
exceeding  an  aver;;ge  of  more  than  20  fathoms ;  and   that 
Ontario  varies  from  75  to  89  fathoms,  with  a  medium  depth 
of  8-2  fathoms.     The  St.  Lawrence  itself  varies  very  much 
in  depth,  and  exhibits  phenomena  that  shew  its  bottom  to  be 
excessively  uneven.     In  order  to  be  within  the  limits  of  re- 
uiity,  I  have  assumed  a  medium  depth  of  20  fuct,  for  all  the 
surface  contained  in  the  last  item  of  my  estimate,  of  1,500 
square  miles  for  the  superficial  area  of  St.  Lawrence  river 
und  the  smaller  lakes  :  I  have  also  assumed  for  lakes  Supe- 
rior, Huron  and  Michigan  150  fa'hums  or  000  feet,  and  upou 
these  data  have  constructed  the  following : 

TABLE 

OP  THE  QUANTITY  OP  WATER  CONTAINED  IN  THE  ST.  LAWRENCE,  AXI* 
ALL  ITS  CONTUIBUTARY  LAKES  AND  RIVERA. 


>^p-i 


Lake  Superior, 
Huron,     -     - 
Michigan,     - 
Erie,     -     -    - 
Ontario,    -    - 
St.  Lawrence," 
.&  other  riv- 
ers^, smaller 
lakes. 


Modimn 
Depth. 

900  ft. 

900  ft. 

900  ft. 

120  ft. 

492  ft. 


Supnficial  Area 
in  feet. 

8  3  6,3;)  2, 000,000 

557,5  68,000,000 

376,898,400,000 

418,176,000,000 

200,724,480,000 

4 1, 1 7  C, 000,000 


Sol!  I  Contents 
in  feet. 

752,716,800,000,000 

501,811,200,000,000 

339,208,560,000,000 

50,181,120,000,000 

98,756,444,160,000 

83,520,000,000 


2,430,894,880,000.1,742,757,644,160,000 


11^ 


RlVEU    ST.    lAWllKNCE. 


[let.  IX. 


LET. 


Pit.','   ,1 


:  IV  ; 


Ky- 

■J^ 

i.;    ..: 

isB 

'1 

■  iV'',,-  r" 

ll^^l 

'■■.  1  .     ■  • 

1*1' 

'PHI 

i^i 

yl,f 

Increillljlc  as  it  will  appear  (o  yoin'Sfll*  and  most  ot.'iei* 
pei'suus,  it  is  ncvertlieless  a  i'aet  (hat  lliis  crioriuoits  mass  oT 
IVesh  water  U  here  uuderratcd,  and  yvl  aiitoiintu  fo  rnoie 
llian  one  lialt'ot' all  the  iVesli  waJci-  on  (his  planet.  Thi-i 
unequalled  source  oi*  wateis  you  will  perceive,  pro5)el!i  down 
the  yt,  Lawrence  a  s(reani  that  flov^s  with  nearly  eqnahli-* 
qnr.nlify  throughout  the  year.  Amongst  the  nriany  trai<s  oi' 
sin};ularity,  that  give  to  the  St.  Lawrence  a  (haraetcr  ot 
unity,  none  is  more  distinctive  than  the  unchangeable  quan- 
tity and  v  locily  of  its  curront. 

Another  proldem  now  presents  itself  lor  solution,  that  is 
the  (juantuni  of  discharge,  which,  though  very  largo,  docs 
not  bear  a  proportion  to  the  nu.^s  contained. 

Three  places  present  themselves  from  where  the  dis- 
charge can  be  calculated  with  most  precision ;  oppo.Ofe 
Black-Rock,  in  the  Niagara  Strait,  and  above  Ogden's  Isl- 
and, at  the  Narrows,  or  at  Point  Iroquois.  At  all  of  these 
places,  the  whole  volume  is  contracted  into  less  than  a  milu 
in  width,  but  llowing  with  great  velocity.  In  estimating  the 
mean  discharge  of  rivers,  a  general  mistake  is  prevalent,  to 
assume  the  upper  current  as  that  of  the  whole  river.  Al- 
lowing the  St.  Lawrence  to  be  three-fourths  of  a  mile  wide 
at  any  of  the  places  I  have  pointed  out,  and  to  ilow  three 
miles  an  hour,  witli  a  mean  depth  of  fifty  feet,  the  result 
would  be,  that  a  trarssverse  section  of  the  river  would  con- 
tain 103. GOO  superficial  feet,  which  multiplied  by  15,810  the 
lineal  feet  contained  in  three  miles,  would  yield  t,672,70i,0GO 
cubic  feet  as  the  hourly  discharge.  This  estimate  exceediJ 
by  more  than  one  half,  the  quantity  I  formerly  calculated 
for  tlic  expenditure  of  the  Mississippi ;  (see  Appendix  No.  2,) 
and,  though  contrary  to  my  opinion  when  I  lirst  arrived  oil 
the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  I  am  convinced  falls  below 
reality.  The  greater  surface  drained  by  the  3Iississippi, 
is  counterbalanced  by  a  much  greater  evaporation  than 
takes  place  on  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Yours  respectfully. 


XET.  X.] 


SACKET*S    ILiUHOR. 


119 


.•    I^lii 


LETTER  X. 

Sackd's  Uurlm',  July  20lh,  ISIS. 
13  E Alt  Sir, 

I  liEFT  Ogdcnsburgli  (he  day  before  yesterday,  and 
eamc  on  in  the  Stcam-Iiout  to  this  village,  from  which  I  ex- 
pect to  set  out  in  a  few  liourson  my  tour  or  voyage  west- 
ward. Tiie  extracts  I  ha.c  transmitted  from  Mr.  Bou- 
chettc,  will  have  given  you  the  general  outline  of  the  natu- 
ral features  of  the  St.  Lawrence  ,*  it  will  be  only  necessary 
for  me  to  condense  a  recapitulation  of  tlio  minute  features, 
to  which  I  have  been  more  particularly  a  witnyss. 

With  partial  exceptions,  the  banks  of  this  great  streaui 
rise  by  acclivities  of  more  or  less  inclination,  from  the  mar- 
gin of  the  water  to  often  half  a  mile  distance,  and  from 
(hence  become  more  level  in  retiring  farther  from  tljc  river. 
The  soil,  except  among  the  granitic  rocks  of  the  Thousand 
islands,  is  extremely    crtile. 

That  part  of  its  shores  which  I  have  traversed,  lies  in 
the  counties  of  St.  Lawrence  and  Jefferson,  in  the  state  of 
New-York,  and  is  divided  into  the  townships  of  Iloundsfield 
which  includes  this  village,  Lyme,  Brownville,  formerly  Pcn- 
nct's  square,  Le  Ray,  in  Jefferson  ;  Rossie,  Hague,  Oswe- 
gatchie,  Lisbon,  and  Madrid,  in  St.  Lawrence.  On  the  Can- 
ada shore,  in  ascending  from  opposite  Hamilton,  I  traversed 
the  point  of  the  township  of  Matilda,  in  the  county  of  Hun- 
das  ;  of  Edwardsburg  and  Augusta,  in  the  county  of  Gren- 
ville,  and  of  Elizabethtown  and  Yonge,  in  the  county  of 
Leeds. 

fn  many  respects  this  is  amongst  the  most  remarkable, 
and  certainly  is  one  of  the  most  diversified  tracts  on  the  St. 
Lawrence.  In  the  whole  range  from  Broekville,  in  Eliza- 
beth township,  as  far  as  I  descended,  the  shores  of  Canada 


#;  'B 


^1 

•sir 


•if 


* 

u 

i; 


IW^ 


i26 


tMVEa   ST.    tAWUEXCE. 


j^LET.    X* 


■It 


!.'■«. 


i .  ■"" 

-i.   ."  . 

i-'^il 

hk 

present  one  expanse  of  enUivaied  land.  The  farir.s,  from 
the  reg'ular  ubcenl  of  (lie  ground,  have  a  fine  efiVct  uhon 
corn  from  (he  river  or  opposite  shore.  From  (he  season  of 
iii;y  arrival  and  residence,  1  had  a  good  opportunity'  to  see  the 
i-apid  advance  of  vegeration.  On  the  20th  of  May,  very 
little  progress  in  the  foliage  of  spring  vas  percepiible,  and 
yet  the  lirsl  of  June  was  ushered  in  in  all  the  rieliness  of 
\ernal  green.  I  have  seen  notliing  lo  prepossess  my  ir/ind 
with  a  favorable  idea  of  Canadian  farming,  yet  the  crops 
Appear  abundant  ;  orchards  are  neglected,  though  in  apples 
and  pears  very  productive.  Meadows  have  a  peculiar  rieii 
aspect,  and  no  doubt  reward  their  cultivators  with  an  over- 
:flowing  recompense. 

The  U.  S.  shore,  from  its  recent  settlement,  remains  most-^ 
]y  in  woods,  but  where  <  h  ared  p>  esents  a  similar  aspect  willt 
the  opposing  bank.  The  progress  of  improvement  on  li.e 
side  of  New-York,  has  been  no  doubt  relai*d<rd  by  the  land 
remaining  in  the  hands  of  a  few  wealthy  owners,  who  by 
demanding  excessive  prices,  and  by  other  inJiHlieious  ar- 
rangements, have  contributed  to  turn  the  tide  of  eu)igration 
into  other  channels. 

The  timber  is  excessive  for  its  quantity,  variety,  atsd  gi- 
gantic size.  I  had  often  an  occasion  to  muke  a  remark  on 
this  subject,  which  lam  unable  to  explain.  Whvn  I  relum- 
ed to  the  middle  states  from  the  v^Hics  of  Ohio  and  Mis- 
bissippi,  I  was  every  where  from  Richmond  to  Boston,  struck 
"with  the  diminutive  size  of  the  forest  trees.  This  impres- 
biou  continued  until  I  visited  the  upper  Mohawk,  where  the 
trees  commenced  to  present  the  enormous  trunks  every  where 
Keen  on  the  Ohio  and  MissistAippi  waters.  As  I  advanced 
northwards,  and  particularly  below  the  Thousand  islands^ 
the  hemlock,  sug'^r  utaple,  linden,  elm,  pine,  and  two  or 
three  species  of  hickory,  rose  to  a  majesty  of  size  and  ele-, 
vation  suflieient  to  excite  admiration  and  astonishment.  The 
white  pine  in  the  neighltorhood  of  Ogdensburg,  affords  ofle^ 
masts  of  upwards  of  one  hundred  feet  iu  length. 


lET.    X.] 


RIVEU    ST.   I.VWIIEX^CE. 


121 


Oak  is  I'.iro,  and  when  it  opcurs  dot's  not  rival  in  v.eJi^litof 
wood  the  otliop  tiTCS.  Excessive  I:il»or  is  in(li-i|)(Mij;i!)!r  in 
clearing  from  its  natural  state,  land  (•ovorcd  \vi(l»  sueh  a 
dense  forest ;  formid-iMe  as  it  is.  It  is  fiiiin;;  daily  hcrmc  tlio 
farmers  and  the  lumber  worivincn.  Tliouj^li  so  many  more 
attractive  allui'enu'nis  have  drawn  emlj^ration  soutji- 
west,  yet  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrenee  are  jH'oplinj;  slo'.v- 
]y.  The  cjipriees  of  mankind  are  jli^Hfult  to  reconcile. 
Wtha  soil  at  least  equal,  and  wilh  a  climate  incomparably 
more  congenial  to  their  habits,  it  is  eurioiH  that  the  north- 
ern emigrant  has  so  often  neglected  the  banks  of  St.  Law- 
rence to  seek  thoro  of  (he  Mi'ssiysijipi. 

Coldness,   barrenness,  and   asperity  of  surface,  are   the 
features  in   which  the   fancy  of  the  people   of  our  middlo 
states  have  clotlved  this  courttry.     No  deception  was  cer- 
tainly ever  more  complete.     The  reverse  is  the  fact   in  eve- 
ry point.     It  is  doubtful  with  me,  whether  any   part  of  the 
earth  can  exhibit  a  more  dcrkious  snmjsjer  than  this  sujtpo- 
scd  region  of  frost.     Spring,  in  Jhe  acceptation  of  that  tei-m 
as  commonly  applied  in  the  middle  and  southern  states,  does 
tiol  here  exist.     The  transition  from  winter  to  summer  oecu- 
j)ies  but  a  few  days  ;  and  all  seasons  are  aceompanicjl  with 
Ihe  highest  behest  of  heaven,  health.     The  pale  cadaverous 
visage   of  hopeless  disi-ase  is   siddom  seen.     If  (he  inhabit- 
nnts  earn  their  bread  by  the  sweat  of  theii*  brow,  they  cat 
it  with  a  good  appetite.     I  am    confident  that  the  lumber 
trade  has  been  a  severe  injury  to  the  inhabitants,  and  has 
had  no  little  agency  in  preventing  a  more  rapid  advance  of 
settlement  and  increase  of  wealth,     I  did  not  converse  with 
one  man  on  the  subject  that  did  not  give  that  opinion  di'ci- 
dedly,  and  some  even  M'ilh   biiterness.     It  is  a  business  with 
excessive  labor  in  its  pursuit,  and  with  poverty  and  hunger 
for  its  common  reward.     Of  all  the  occupations  of  man, 
where  the  soil  will  admit  culture,    lumber  merchandize  is 
perhaps  the  most  exceptionable  ;  and  yet,  wilh  aJl  its  obvi- 
ous ruinous  eonsefjucnees,   hundreds,  upon  a  soil  of  cxube- 


■  < 


122 


RIVER   ST.   lAWUENCE. 


[let.  X. 


LET. 


r^.i' 


I'y 


i    <     <a 


V  i 


rant  ferlilKy,  spend  their  lives  between  cutting  and  floating 
tijiil)t-r.  iwul  wreteliediiebs  and  dependence. 

Huiull  {^rain  sueli  as  ulieat^  rje,  oats,  and  barley,  {;ro\v 
extremely  Hell.  Indian  corn  here,  as  in  most  places  ^vhero 
late  and  earl^  IVosls  frequently  occur,  uiusf  be  a  precarious 
crop.  vtM  it  is  niucii  culiivaled,  and  I  am  credibly  inloriued 
ol'ien  fields  a  good  product  oi'  twenly-ftve  or  thirty  bui«hcls 
to  the  acre. 

]]oi(oi!i  land,  in  the  sense  understood  in  the  middle  states, 
there  is  none  on  the  St.  Lawrence.     Upon  the  banks  of  the 
Potomac,  Susquehanna,  Dela'.> are,  Hudson,  and  some  of  the 
rivers  of  New  Enj4;land,    alluvial  bottoms  ai*e  found,  compo- 
sed  of  the  dehriSf  carried  down   by  the  overllowinj^  of  the 
streauis  from   towards  their   sources,    and  deposited  in  the 
form  of  rich   ilals.     I'his   latter  kind  of  soil  exists   on  the 
Polomac,  near  Washinj^ton  City  ;  on  the  shores  of  the  Sus- 
quelianna,  near  Ilarrisburg ;  on  the  Delaware  river,  above 
IMiihidelphia  to  Trenton  ;  above  and  below  Albany  on  Hud- 
son ;  in  Connecticut,  on   the   banks  ot  Housatonick,   >Val- 
lin.^ford,  and  n:ore  particularly  Connecticut  river.     Viewing 
St.  liuwrence,  1  have  frequently   endeavored  to  imagine  a 
river,   with  whose  scenery   }ou   were  acquainted,   and  to 
which  this  river  bore  a   strong  analogy  ;  but  I   knew   none 
j)ossessing  those  strong  resemblances,   where  preeonceiTcd 
images  could  give  an  accurate  conception  of  unseen  objects, 
'i  lie  e;i!st  bunk  of  Hudson   below  the  Highlands,  and   both 
ba!iksof  that  river  from  New  burg  to  Ked-Hook  ;  the  banks 
of  the  Mohawk  below  the  Little  Falls,  and   these  of  Con- 
ncclicut  river,  near  Aliddletown,   afford   landscapes  whose 
feat  uses  have  mnny  traits   of  comparison  with  those  of  St. 
Lawrence;  but  with  a  tanicness  unseen  and  unknown  on  that 
noble  stream.     It  is  con:paring  an  it  fant  to  a  man,  a  pigmy 
to  a  ,i;»ant.  or  a  i  ill  to  a  torrent,  to  compare  any  of  the  east- 
ern Hreai:isof  the  United  Slates  to  the  St.  Lawrence. 

I  Ijavc  alrt  ady  sicwn,  tliat  tlie  Mississippi  and  its  con.iu- 
cnts  1  reseat  features  so  difiiicfst,  that  nothing  but  contrast 


H?  . 


f* 


LBT.   X.j 


Riven    ST.   LAwRKSrCB. 


as 


itan  l)c  drawn  between  ihein  and  llie  Hi.  Lawfoncp.  In  pus- 
hing tVoni  one  stream  (u  (lie  olbei*,  a  new  world  ojU'iis  to  lliu 
traveller)  tlic  face  ot*  nature  changes,  the  objeetn  are  of  ni'w 
MpeeieS)  almost  ol'  new  {;encrti,  and  it  is  diilicuh  to  eoueeive 
ourselves  upon  the  snnie  planet. 

Ill  nolhin.i^«  however,  do  the  two  rivers  so  essentinliv  dif- 
fer us  in  liicir  islands  ;  those  of  the  Mississijipi,  like  the 
banks  of  that  niij^ht^  stream,  are  Hat,  iriitny  of  them  snb- 
jeet  to  overflow,  none  niarshv  ;  those  of  the  St.  liawieneo 
are  mostly  elevated,  never  entirely  level  unless  murshy,  and 
always  of  an  exuberantly  rich  soil,  llolh  livers  uie  che- 
quered with  islamtis,  but  those  islands  have  characters  es- 
i>ei)tially  dilferent  ;  those  of  the  Mississippi  follow  the  di- 
rection of  that  river,  and  seldom  occur  in  groups  ;  those  o^ 
the  St.  Lawrence  lie  seattercd  promiscuously  upon  tlie  face 
of  its  cuiTent,  and  are  almost  always  grouped. 

Of  the  islands  of  St.  Lawrence,  after  those  of  the  Thou- 
sand islands,  (he  most  remarkable  are  the  (i.illops,  and 
those  in  their  vicinity.  You  will  remember  tlmt  1  have  re- 
marked, that  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  a  little  below  Brock- 
ville  to  three  or  four  m:,les  below  Oj;deHsl)urgh,  was  entirely 
Ireo  of  islands  ;  then  commences  a  lar^e  group,  of  which 
that  of  the  ancient  Fort  Levi  is  the  first  in  descending,  and 
that  of  I'resque  Isle  above  point  Iioquois  the  last.  I  notice 
particularly  these  islands,  as  they  are  a  good  representation 
«f  the  islands  of  that  river  generally. 

When  descending  the  river  in  the  middle  of  May,  I  was 
particularly  impressed  with  the  peculiar  features  of  these 
islands,  and  being  afterwards  employed  to  survey  them  and 
the  adjacent  shores^  became  necessarily  intimate  with  their 
position. 

Some  miles  above  Ogdensburgh,  even  opposite  Broek- 
ville,  a  slight  current  is  |v?rceptible,  which  very  gradually 
increases,  and  at  isle  Fori.  Levi  has  assumed  considerable 
force.  In  the  space  betwt'm  Brockville  and  isle  Levi,  the 
river  varieii  in  breadth  from  uhc  to  one  and  a  Italf  miles  :  but 


■r- 

■■■"   4 


•K  « 


;  m 


'■/,  '* 


12^ 


niVGR   ST.   LAWCIENCE. 


[let.  X. 


n(  isle  Levi  dilates  to  near  two  milp»  wide.    To  the  north 


ti.^' 


:r-: 


i    V, 


be; 


arc 


ot*  isle  Levi    lie   a  niiaiher   of  others,    whoso   names 
merely  locul  1  oiiii',  hut  whose  situation  uimI  appearance 
ill  the  hi;i;hest  decree  c!e;j;nnt  and  aj^reeahle.     L'pon  two  of 
this  ^ro(ip,  one  eoiiiitiisiiiutiers  rn('aiii|M'd,   and  upoii  one  of 
»hieh  was  f;iven  the  ft'lc.  cluiviiu'lie  1  have  already  notierd. 
Still  lower  down,  eomnienees  the  einstee  more  pai-ticjlai'ly 
desi{;nated  as  the  CiAIJ.OP  ISLANDS.     Here  the  rivei- 
is  divided  hv  (he  [)rineipal  inland  iiito  two  channels,   in  eacii 
of  whieli  the  enrrent  runs  vi»h  {;ri>at  vcloelf^v  over  hdgrs  of 
sehisto.se   limestone.      JJflow   the  f;nind    (iailop  lie  scatter- 
ed ten  ov  twelve  more  islands,  hetween  whieh,  as  also  along 
the  shore,  the  stream  ilows  very  irregularly  and  with  great 
velocity.     Still  lower  down  than  the  Gallops,  and  three  miles 
distant  are  two  isl.mds,  past  vhieh  the  river  continues  to  run 
vith  tiie  velofitv  of  a  eataract.     The  line  between  the  town- 
ships  of  Edwardsluir;:;  and  Matilda,  and  of  consequence  be- 
tween   the  eoiKiiics  of  Grenville   and   Dnnda?,   strikes  the 
I'ivcr  o|;posite  ti>e   Gallop  islands  and   rapid.     A  short  dis- 
tance hi'low  Hiis  line  the  river  is    united  again  into  one  vol- 
ume, which  in  two  places,   point  Iroquois  and  the  Narrows, 
is  contracted  into  less  than  half  a  n:ile  M'ide,   with  a  very 
deep  arui  rapid  current.     OgdenN  island,  opposite  Ilaniiltony 
a;;:»in  di'  *d>'s  the  St.  Lawrence  into  two  unequal  volumes,  the 
iir.iln  stream  heinj^  on  the   Canada  shore.     From  this  phice, 
ihou.!;jh  tlie  river  presents   two  paits,  as  the  Itapid  Plat  and 
Loi)?^  Saut,    which  are  marked  as  cataracts,  yet  in  reality 
from  II;imilion   (o  lake   St.  Francis,  the   whole  distance  is 
a  ra;;:d  riinninj;  w  itli  threat  violence.     The  Ib^  of  latitude  is 
rendered  in  a  pavtieular  manner  remarkable,  by  striking  the 
riviT  at    the  head    of  lake    St.  Francis;  here   the  stream, 
vhich,  from  the  head  o?  the  Gallops  has  run  with  such  pro- 
diiijious  velocity,  becomes  tranqtiil,   and  expands  into  a  lake 
of  near  ililrty  miles  in  Icngtii  by  three  or  four  in  width,  with, 
in  many  parts,  low,  marshy  shores.    Lake    St.  Francis  con- 


^i;;- 

' 

I.  ^- 

lilL 

i 

LET.  S.] 


BIVEa   ST.    LAWTIEVCE. 


125 


fniels  at  its  lower  extrnnily  in(o  Hie  rjipid  of  tli(>  C<'drrs,  lic- 
low  wlikii,  lltou;;li  rlie  river  occasioaallj  flows  wiili  iiiucli 
ra|>uli(^,  it  gradually  iosis  its  eiirrciit  in  (lu-  level  of  ilic 
tides. 

Between  Montreal  and  Ogdenshiirglu  tlic  navigitfion  of 
tills  greit  river  is  lahorious,  in  some  measure  preiarioji-*, 
and,  without  much  skill  and  eare,  dangerous,  it  is  u  euiu- 
plinicnt  to  the  vi^ilanee  and  ruresi;^lii  of  (he  hoalm  n  who 
conduct  the  various  ral'ls  and  vessels,  thai  so  lew  arcidenis 
occur.  A  kind  of  keel  hoat,  of  nearly  equal  size  prow  and 
stern,  is  the  ordinary  mode  of  Iransporiin^  merehandizo 
froui  and  (o  Montreal  as  hij>;h  as  Kin<;sion.  These  boats 
are  managed  wilh  great  dexteriiy  by  the  Canadians,  who 
)ia:idlc  with  equal  adroitness  poles  and  oars,  'i  he  rapids 
arc  often  so  strong  as  to  oblige  the  boatmen  to  use  a  drag 
line,  and  it  is  wonderful  (he  patience  wilh  \\hieii  tliche  men 
continue  their  exertions,  against  the  force  of  (he  s(ream. 
Descending  demands  little  less  labor,  and  more  attention 
than  ascending. 

Taken  ai  a  whole,  I  cannot  conceive  of  a  more  pleasing 
region  than  that  along  both  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
when  the  United  States'  shore  is  as  well  cultivaled  and  im- 
proved as  the  Canadian,  it  will  be  a  voyage  of  real  pleasure 
to  pass  along  its  current. 

The  islands  were  claimed  by  the  St.  Regis  Indians,  who 
have  made  a  sale  of  their  right  to  the  soil,  lo  David  A.  Og> 
den,  Esq.  Except  Mr.  Ogden's  own  residence  near  Hamil- 
ton, and  a  few  settlements  made  upon  the  grand  Gallop 
under  lease  from  the  Indians,  those  incomparably  beauliful 
islands  are  mostly  uninhabited.  Their  settlement  would  add 
very  greatly  to  the  decoration  of  the  scenery  of  Ihc  country. 
Human  imagination  could  not  form  an  idea  of  places,  where 
more  elegance  of  scite  and  prospect  would  be  coaibined» 
than  on  almost  aM  of  these  islands.  The  fine  seat  of  Mr. 
Ogden^  opposite  Hamilton^  is  an  cxuniple.    Clearing  away 


A 
•if 


l!2« 


OEM'.  VI. 


[let.   XI. 


their  sliorcs  would  uUn  larilitato  nn^iaiiuion,  hy  cnaliling 
Itoudiu'ii  (0  (nko  i)ioii>  ndvnninp*.  tliun  is  '  o\v  in  (lieir  (mjam't, 
Df  the Oj^iposing  cddios  niiU  lurrcnl*. 

Tours. 


-"c^i^l^s** 


llif 


I 

'•I 


i' 


LETTER  XI, 

Gcvrca,  Juhj  22,  ISIS. 
Dear  Sir, 

Bi  llsc  route  of  (Jrcal  fiodcis  liny,  T  arrivrd  yesteid.nj 
in  this  villajiT,  I  IcH  Sackd's  Harlior  on  Sunday,  and  from 
ftdvcvst'  vinds,  could  nof  make  Hodus  heforr  Monday  morn- 
ing, and  Tvas  detained  there  until  '^I'uesday  nioinint*.  I  did 
not  ft  {^ret  the  detention,  as  it  enahleiJ  tne  to  examine  the 
bay  and  adjacent  shores  niih  some  attention. 

'J1n  liay  of  Great  Sodys,  lies  partly  in  Seaeca  and  partly 
in  Ontui'io  counties^  the  division  line  running  south  from  the 
head  of  th"  bay,  having  on  the  >ve8t,  tlie  township  oC  Sodus 
the  norlh-east  angle  of  Ontario,  and  on  the  east,  the  town- 
ship of  Wolcolt,  the  north-west  angle  of  Seneca  county  ; 
"with  two  villages,  Troupsville  in  Sodus,  standing  on  the 
point  between  the  bay  and  lake  Ontario,  and  port  Glasgovir 
standinf*  at  the  head  of  the  bay  in  AVolcott.  !\either  of 
these  vil!.  ges  are  yet  of  Hiueb  consequence,  but  will  no  doubt, 
keep  pace  with  the  progress  of  the  adjacent  country. 

1  have  seen  no  uiaj)  whereon  Sodus  is  very  correctly  de- 
lineated ;  on  both  Lay's  and  Eddy's  maps,  the  mouth  is  too 
■wide  and  not  represented  as  much  land  locked,  as  it  is  in 
fact.  Two  points  project  towaids  each  other  from  the  op- 
posing sides  of  the  bay.    The  western  most  of  these  points^ 


1JIT.    XI.J 


I0DU9. 


1'27 


is  compo8<Ml  *of  looso  sand  Hml  lubMcs,  lie  alon;;  (ho  lakr, 
and  is,  indct'd,  oiil^  the  rubhisli  ihro\Mi  u\\  Uy  tUv  [u^r^.clnA 
surf  whitdi  heats  tho  siioie.  Ahoiit  half  a  niilo  tVoiii  ihc  ex- 
ti'cmilj^  of  the  \V(>8tci'n  point,  an  i»huid  liis  in  the  nioudi  uf 
thu  bay,  united  to  the  uiain  Hhurc  hy  a  nalural  e.iUHCw.iy, 
also  foniied,  nu  doubt,  by  the  surf  of  the  lake.  'V\w  H]taeo 
between  the  island  and  point  is  the  entrance  into  Hodiiti.  twn 
about  8  feet  water,  and  leads  into  an  cxcellcut  hai  hor,  sail) 
from  all  winds. 

The  shores  of  lake  Ontario,  both  east  and  went  of  Sodiis, 
are  composed  of  vast  banks  ofeartti,  iweniy  orihiii.v  I'tet 
Iti^h,  and  every  where  •yielding  to  the  abrasion  of  the  waters 
of  the  lake.     One  dense  and  continuous  forest  ooverit  tliu 
sliore,  occasionally  relieved  by  new  farms.     The  country  is 
extremely  beautiful,  picturesque  and  variegated,  aiound  the 
bay.     The  soil   excellent.     At    the   time  1    was  their,  llio 
iields  were  yet  covered  with  grain,   harvest  beiiig  rather  iti 
its   commencement    than   completed.      I'his   cireumstanc.o 
gave   mo,  some    surprize  ;    1   had  been   often   tuld   that    to 
the  west  of   Sacket's  Harbor,   the  climate  became   more 
mild  in  a  given  latitude.     The  phenomena,    visible  to  mo 
since  my  arrival  here,  dors  not  tend   to  give  force  to  the 
correctness  of  such  an  opinion.     Sodus  stands  in  i\.  lat.  43** 
20*  and  very  nearly  due  north  from  Washington  City. 

July  21st,  f^t  8o*cIock  A.  M.  I  left  Sodus  rnd  proeeodcd 
towards  this  place.  I  found  the  intermediate  stationary  dis« 
iances  neai^y  as  follows  : 


From  Sodus  to  Grifiith's^ 
Reynold's,  - 

Village  of  Lyons,  ... 

Geneva  Church,  -  -  - 

Village  of  Geneva,  -  -  - 

On  leaving  Sodus,  tho  road  follows  the  bluffs  of  Ontario 
two  miles,  frequently  in  view  of  the  lake  ;  it  tlien  turiiss  to 
abruptly  south,  winding  along  the  western  side  of  bodus 


—5 
3—8 

8—16 
8— "i* 
6— ;J0 


li..ii 


'it  i 
V,  V'.:, 


|^^--,.»v.,    ..j^. 


m 

> 

,;„- 

,  '  jr 

■128 

aouvB. 

[LCT.    XI. 

bay,  and  thence  over  flic  ancient  alluvion  of  lake  Ontarie 
to  Keynold's'.  AVIiut  is  called  the  ridge  road  or  natural 
turnpike  h  passed  at  Gritliih*s.  Conti^^uous  to  Sodus  the 
surfaco  oC  the  ground  is  brokck,,  the  vallies  are,  however, 
only  the  fissure  -worn  since  the  recession  of  lake  Ontario;* 
as  Avhen  the  hei^^hJ  o(*  the  table  land  above  the  bay  is  attain- 
ed, a  plain  vA'  great  extent  commences  witli  very  little  as- 
perity of  surface.  It  is  evident  that  lake  Ontario  has  re- 
ceded at  dilTerent  limes.  The  natural  turnpike  is  ,  upon 
the  alluvial  plain  ;  upon  this  ancient  shore  of  the  lake  its 
waves  nuist  have  heat  many  centuries,  and  yat  iucontestiblc 
tloerment  exists  to  prave,  tliat,  for  perUaps  as  many  or  more 


*,:■>■  s 


f-' 


*  FROM  TnC  ROCHESTER  TELRfiRArH. 

"  Something:  for  Geologists. — \n  sinkinjr  a  well  at  Cartliagr,  .*j 
short  time  siricc.  the  workmen  discovered  laehc  or  fiflcen  frogs) 
embod(ieii  in  a  layer  of  clo5c  coinpjicted  marl,  about  iiijie  feet 
bolow  the  smface.  Particulai  care  was  taken  to  discover  wlio- 
(lier  any  connTr.jnicalion  with  tli9  suiTnee  could  have  exfisted;  but 
it  was;  satisfactorily  shown  that  there  was  none.  They  were  of  a 
lijiht  brown  color,  apparently  about  half  grown,  and  very  active. 
They  were  in  a  kind  of  iiest,  like  mice,  and  appeared  to  be  iso- 
lated from  the  rest  of  animated  nature.  We  have  heard  of  frogs 
being  clis<.t)\cred  in  trees,  and  in  rocks:  but  have  never  before 
witnessed  tliem  so  far  underground.  In  sinking  the  saaie  well  about 
fonr  leei  farther,  several  more  frogs  were  discovered  in  a  layer 
of  loose  sand,  tolaiiy  disconnected  with  the  superijicumbent  stra- 
tum, or  with  any  possible  comnnniication  witii  the  exterior.  It  is 
beiievi.'d  by  the  writer,  that  they  have  existed  therefrom  the  poicd 
of  the  recession  of  lake  Ontario,  which  is  probably  not  less  than  a 
thobsaml  >ears:  if  so,  their  longevity  surpasses  that  of  Thomas 
rair  of  the  moderns,  or  IMethuselah  of  the  ancients,  and  deserves 
to  be  lecorded.     The  doidjter  is  cha"' 


igct 


sons. 


X. 


'•  Lavthaze,  ^ov.  7.  1818," 


^es^i 


Though  I  do  not  1  elieve  the  last  recession  of  lake  Ontario  \o 
have  taken  place  witlin  a  th(>nsand  years  past,  1  have  published 
tli "  above  as  a  curious  tact,  both  in  the  revoliiiiors  of  our  globe 
and  in  the  laws  of  ai  inial  life.  Many  instances  are  however  ou 
record  of  cold  blooded  anima's  existing  in  marl,  limestone,  aud 
marble. 


LET.    XI. j 


LY0N3. 


129 


ccnlui'ies,  this  lake  must  hnvc  liad  a  siufuee  hvcnij  or  thirty 
foct  above  (he  na(u:'a]  tia'npike. 

At  Revnol(J*«  tliu  alluvia!  plain  terminates,  and  a  very 
ruj!:fj;e(I,  hilly  regiou  ccirmtcnces.  The  transition  is  abrijpt, 
and  i:vro  i'roin  every  aj^pearanec,  >vas  tlie  original  south 
s!;c:c  cf  luke  Cataj io  ;  at  ti:nes  l!ic  remoteness  at  \vhich  I 
have  not  the  ter/ierity  to  aitentpl  a  ealeulation.  Above 
Ee;  L'oid'c,  th(*  rond  leaves  the  alluvial  plain  and  ascends  the 
hills  by  a  f;;orf^e,  over  the  mouth  ol'  which  is  a  natural  cause- 
way.- which  v.arj  evidently  formed  by  a  process  similar  to  that 
whtel;  icri'jed  the  points  of  Sodus  hay  and  tlie  naXural  cause- 
way, thoi.'.:^h  lit  U'ast  thirty  feet  above  the  latter. 

The  tiiiihi;*  fror.i  Sod  is  s  lo  the  hills  is  generally  composed- 
of  hi'vjl'H'.k,  sn,:;ur  maple,  red  oak,  black  oak,  dm,  and  lin- 
deii,  liic  so:J  extremely  fertile  though  too  flat  ;  and  very 
muvih  iih'xed  with  rounded  granitic  pebbles. 

Tlio  face  cl*  the  counti-y  iVotn  Reyiioid's  to  Lyons  is  ex- 
cessively broken  ;  the  hills  are  not  wv;^  eievat*.  u,  but  ex- 
tresuely  abrupt  and  sleep  witli  a  feitlie  soil,  l,\c:is  btands 
upon  the  bank  of  the  outlet  of  Canandai.^ua  lake,  a  short 
distance  below  where  that  outlet  joins  ^iv:u  creek.  The 
viiiaj^e  occupies  the  verge  of  the  hills,  and  stands  upon  a  ve- 
ry broken  site.  The  rou!e  of  the  grand  canal  is  traced 
through  Lyons,  and  up  tjic  valley  of  Mud  creek  lo  its  source. 
The  outlet  is  a  large  creek,  w  ith  banks  much  more  resem- 
bling: a  bavou  of  lower  Louisiana  than  a  water  course  of  the 
state  of  Ncw-Yoik.  Lyons  has  a  Nourishing  appearance 
amid  a  fine  increasing  settlement. 

Crossing  the  Canandaigua  outlet  I  found  Diyself  upon  a 
country  generally  level,  but  not  so  tamely  uniform  as  tlie 
alluvial  plain  of  Ontario.  Cultivation  now  increased  at  ev- 
ery step;  the  soil  excellent,  line  farms,  meadows  and  orch- 
ards on  evei^  side,  which  continued  to  the  village  of  Ge- 
neva. 

This  is  one  of  the  few  towns  in  America  named  from  a 
town  in  Europe,  where  common  sense  and  r.nalogy  were  con- 


'^- 1.  a 


.:-.1 


130 


G£NEVA. 


{let.  XI. 


IBT. 


1  't  ' 


E  r    ' ' , .  / 


I.V 


'^' 


! 

it  < 


suited  in  the  borrowed  nomenclature.     Geneva  stands  in  the 
townslisp  of  Seneca,  Ontario  county,  at  the  lower  extremity 
of  Seneca  lake.     It  is   built  along  the  margin  of  the  lake 
extending  about  hall' a  mile  in  length.     The  site  of  the  vil- 
lage is  trul^   delightful,  standing  upon  a  waving  ridge  Ij'ing 
parallel  to  and  rising  50  or  60  feel  above  the  water  in  the 
lake  ;  the  view  of  which  is  extensive  and  romantic.    The 
opposite  shore  in  Seneca  county  rising  gently  from  the  wa- 
ter to  considerable  elevation,  clothed  with   timber  or  che- 
quered with  farms.     To  the  north  ari<l  north-east  the  pros- 
pect is  also  charming,  and  is  now  a  sea  of  golden  grain,  rich 
orchard  or   meadow  ;    the  bouses  appear  to  stand    in   an 
ocean  of  plenty.     I  have  never  visited  a  place  which  seems 
to  eon^bine  in  so  small  a  compass  so  much  to  please  in  the 
softer  features  of  rural  landscape.     I  was  detained  here  one 
day,  and  amused  myself  in  walking  along  the  banks  of  this 
beautiiul   lake,  and  could  not  avoid  exclaiming,  that  here, 
wi(h   health  and  coutpetence,  could  I  spend  the  remaining 
years  of  my  life,   widtout  a  sigh  to  return  to  the  bustling 
commercial  capitals,  where  for  so  many  years   I  had  scarce 
enjoyed  a  quiet  day.     My  reveries  were  the  dreams  of  fan- 
cy excited  by  a  weariness  of  travelling,  the  painful  recollec- 
tion  of  a!)seut  famil;/  and  friends  obtruded,  with  the  addi- 
tional subject  of  reg.'ct  that  every  day  carried  me  farther 
from  that  fantily  and  those  fiicnds. 

\Vc  are  seldom  left  without  some  subject  of  consolation; 
I  had  a  letter  from  Gov.  Clinton  to  Col.  Robert  I'roup,  of 
Geneva,  which  procured  me  a  kind  and  friendly  reception, 
and  every  aid  in  tiie  prosecution  of  my  object.  To  this  can- 
did, gentlemanly  and  hospitable  old  soldier,  I  am  under  ob- 
ligations that  will  carry  their  recollection  to  my  grave. 
To  meet  with  such  men  when  far  from  home  amongst 
strangers,  excites  feelings  that  no  man  need  attempt  to  im- 
agine, who  has  not  been  in  a  similar  situation  with  me,  when 
I  met  with  the  venerable  Col.  IVoup. 


i 


ST.   XI. 

3  in  (htt 
tiemily 
lu  lake 
he  vil- 
\  J^ing 

in  ilie 
.     The 

he  wa- 
)r  che- 
le  pros- 
in,  rich 

in  an 

i  seems 

e  in  the 

ere  on© 

i  of  this 

It  hercy 

maiuing 

JusUing 

d  scarce 

of  fan- 

■ecollec- 

te  addi- 

farther 

lolatlon. 
oup^  of 
ception^ 
his  can- 
ider  ob- 

grave, 
imongst 

to  im- 
c,  when 


liBT.   S.I.] 


c.vna:vdaigla. 


131 


Canandaignaf  J«/j/24,  1818, 
Yesterday  in  the  nfiernqon  I  (juit  with  rogrot  tha  village 
of  Geneva,  and  proceeded  on  foot  towards  Canandaigua  ;  the 
distance  is  16  miles  by  the  following  stages  : 

J\Iilcs» 
From  Gcni'va  to  Reid's,  -  -  -         — oi 

Parson's,  -  -  2 — 03 

l)ensuiore*!»»  -  •  1 — 04 

'l'orrfni'C*8,  -  -  1—05 

"Whitney's,  -  -  2—07 

W.  1).  Murray's,  -  3—10 

Hart's  &  Woodward's        -  1 — li 

Canandaigua^  -  -        5 — 16 

The  day  was  excessively  warm,  and  towards  evening 
threatened  rain,  'j'lie  lowering  clouds,  however,  contiibu- 
ted  to  give  addilioiiiil  aiausi  meut  to  that  I  enjoyed  in  viiwing 
the  truly  chaiming  courtry  through  which  ]  was  travelling, 
Tue  face  oI*  the  earth  has  in  the  intervening  distance  IVoni 
Geneva  to  Canandaigua,  neidicr  the  dead  monotony  of  t lit? 
alluvial  plain  of  lake  Ontario,  or  the  harsh  features  of  the 
hilly  region  north  of  the  village  of  Lyons.  Hill  and  dale 
now  present  themselves  with  diversified  but  gentle  effect, 

AVhen  I  hud  reached  the  slope  that  leads  down  to  Canan- 
daigua lake,  evening  was  rapidly  advancin(>: ;  the  black  rain 
elouds  gathered  heavy  over  the  eminences  to  the  south  of 
the  town  of  Canandaigua,  whiclj  was  now  in  full  view  though 
three  miles  distant.  The  scenery  every  moment  becan)e 
more  and  more  interesting,  and  my  mind  more  deeply  inter- 
ested. While  descendhig  the  steepest  part  of  the  hill,  I 
was  rapidly  passed  by  a  man  in  a  sirrgle  horse  carriage.  Mho 
stopped  as  soon  as  he  gained  the  bottom  and  awaited  my  com- 
ing up,  and  very  fi'ankly  invited  me  to  t-ake  a  seat  beside 
Jiim,  which  1  gratefully  accepted.  He  then  drove  rapidly 
forwards,  as  the  rain  commenced  to  fall  in  lai'ge  drops. 
AVhen  we  eame  to  the  lower  exli'emity  of  the  Canandaigua 
lake,  and  the  extensive  fields,   orchards  and  meadovs  near 


i . 


%^JlVmv*n'::l'Vmt:<mtX^''fr'- 


i&Z 


€A\A\DA1GUA. 


[let.  si. 


t  '<  ' 


tm 

^■^i 

1  '  ■  '<; 

the  town  came  in  view,  I  expressed  my  ajluiiration  at  the 
state  Ok*  iiupiovciiient  everj  wIkm'c  viyiMc  ;  r.i^  tVllow  travel- 
ler replied — **  t>V('n(y  nine  /^ars  afj;;o  I  e;»n»e  iij>  this  cutlet, 
"and  at  that  linn*  no  mark  of  tiie  hnnsan  hand  wivi  here  to 
'<  be  seen,  except  those  made  by  savajjes,  a  village  oi'  whom 
<«  existed  on  that  point," — sliewinj;  me  the  lower  end  of  the 
now  flonrishiiJi^  town  of  Canandai.j;ua.  I  eouhl  not  doubt 
his  informafiorj,  chonjL|;h  tliere  was  something  in  tlie  short- 
ness of  the  period,  when  compared  wilh  the  effects  of  hnman 
labor  under  ni,>  eye,  t)i;il  seemed  almost  the  ejpfect  of  magie. 

We  arrived  at  the  pnhiie  house,  jusl  in  time  to  save  our- 
selves from  heinj;  dreiiiehed  in  a  heavy  shower,  and  after  1 
had  returned  Ijini  my  atknowledgenn  nis  for  his  politeness, 
he  informed  irie  that  his  name  was  Yates,  and  that  ho  was 
then  in  his  72d  year.  IJis  hale,  healtliy  and  firm  aspect, 
rendered  this  part  of  !iis  information  as  remarkable  as  his 
short  hut  impressive  history  of  Canandai^^ua.  The  whole 
scene  was  in  fact  one  of  those,  ^hich  was  calcilaled  to  ex- 
liihit  tiie  rapidity  of  improvement  in  the  United  Slates. 
Thirt  man  entered  tliis  iIumi  wilderness,  at  an  age  commonly 
considered  as  (he  meridian  oC  life,  13  years;  and  while  yet 
in  tiie  vigor  of  Iiis  limbs  and  faculties,  a  smiling  residence  for 
civilized  u»an  i.a  ;  arisen  under  hi^  eve. 

I  arose  this  morninj^  early,  in  order  to  examine  this  won- 
der of  western  New-York,  and  was  not  disappointed  in  uiy 
anlieipations ;  I  found  it  by  far  the  most  richly  built  town  of 
its  extent  I  had  ever  seen.  It  does  not  admit  of  compavison 
with  Geneva  ;  the  two  places  so  essentially  differ  in  their  lo- 
cality and  position  rtspecting  the  lakes  on  which  they  are 
built,  that  few  traits  of  resemblance  exist  between  them. 
Both  are  objects  of  astonishment  when  we  recollect  how 
short  a  period  has  elapsed  since  a  forest  occupied  their  po- 
sition. 

I  found  the  site  of  Canandai;;jm  to  be  that  of  ro  inclined 
plane,  rising  from  the  lower  e:strentity  of  the  lake  of  the 
same  name.    A  vall**y,  or  ratiier  bouom^  skirts  along  thir 


h.  )'..■ 


XET.   XI.] 


CANANDATGUA. 


13S 


south  side  of  Hie  (own,  bevond  wliich  the  counlrv  rises  into 
hills  of  eonsidci'iihle  elevation  ;  tothenordi  -and  no!•{h•^7L•st 
extends  a  saving  but  rjol  hilly  country;  (he  er*st  side  is  oc- 
cupied hy  the  lake  and  low  g:'oun{'.s  of  its  oulk't. 

The  (own  extends  in  a  slsvet  of  upwards  of  a  nirle  in 
length  fi'Oin  the  lake,  liain;^  hy  a  very.'^i'ntie  aecHvity.  PJ 
ny  of  the  houses  woiihl  doeoriite  the  oldest  and  most  exien- 
sive  eilies  in  the  United  Sialcs,  and  (Voni  a  nunib:":*  of  nliiees 
the  view  of  the  la!;e  and  sarroundinvr  eountrv  vo!i!,!  re'.vnrd 
a  tour  of  considc  ralde  disiance.  I  sineerely  uouhf  v  !:etiiei* 
a  more  desirable  village  exists  in  the  United  States,  if  in  the 
world.  ^ 


■i'  ;  I 


*  On  my  return  from  the  woshvardj  and  i^ur'ng  a  few  days  stay 
at  C/anandai^rtia,  the  foi'.ov.iuir  stattuieiit  made  its  aj)pfaraiicc  in 
the  Ontario  Repository.  I  liavc  not  the  least  doubt  of  its  cor- 
rectness, except  as  respects  the  pr  )M!ation,  whicli  is  certainly 
underrated  li'any  jud^njent  can  be  t'ormed  upon  t!:e  (\vtcnt  ol'thc 
town  and  the  number  of  persons  liiat  are  to  be  seen  in  ihestreeiS. 

"the  village  op  canandaigua. 

*•'  A  few  days  since,  three  gentlemen,  from  a  laudahh^  curiosity, 
volunteered  their  services  to  take  a  census  of  the  in.hahitants  re- 
siding within  tliat  pai't  of  the  town  Canandai!':iia,  which  is  in- 
corporated as  a  vilh«^re,  and  to  asceilain  the  mimber  of  buildings 
it  contains.  It  wiil  doubtless  be  interesting  to  our  eitizenSj  and 
gratifying  to  the  public,  to  know  the  result. 

*'  From  the  statement  it  appears,  that  the  villafre  contains  17S8 
souls,  of  whom  9  29  arc  males,  and  859  females,  and  including 
135  blacks,  of  whom   30  are  slaves.     Of  the  whole  number,  47 1 
are  under  the  age  of  10  years — 184  between  10  and  21 — and  833 
over  21.     Of  buildings,  there  are  217  dweiiing-houses,  39  stores^ 
76  shops,  30  offices,  and  l.)3  stables.     The  above  aie  exclusive 
of  the  public  buildings,   vi25.   one  congregational  meeting-house, 
one  episcopal  church,  one  methodist  cliapel ;   a  court-house,  a 
jail,  and  a  county  clerks  oHice ;  an  academy  and   five  scliool- 
houses.     Of  the  buihlings,  we  believe  not  one  is  vacant,  except 
lialf  a  doxei*.  ounes.     It  ought  to  be  added,  that  besides  the  aca- 
demy, which  is  undergoing  a  thorough  renovation,  and  the  com- 
mon and  Sunday  schools,  there  are  two  respectable  private  fe- 
male seminaries,  in  which  the  higher  branches  ort:ducation  are 
successfully  taught.     The  style  of  building  may  be  said  to  be  not 
inferior  to  any,  since  travellers,  who  make  public  their  remarkSj 
call  our  village  not  only  well;  but  extravagantly  built. 


m 


'  i 


^-i 


It 


i'V,'"*r«»flWH« 


l.ljt 


CANAM).VIGU'-. 


[let.  xr. 


!  I'  i; 


-.'    ( 


'■(- 


Canai{(Iai,q;iiH  is  tbcscat  of  jusfiecfoi*  the  rieli,  fcrdlo,  and 
flourisliiiig  co(in()'  of  Ontario,  atul  occui>ii>s  one  of  the  ost 
«:li^ible  aj^i'iculUiral  and  euuinitM'cial  positions  in  our  wcsti'in 
country  ;  it  has  now  a  vator  commnniculion  with  the  Seneca 
liver  hy  the  outh;t  of  its  lake,  whieh  as  I  before  observed 
unites  uilh  Mud  creek  at  Lyons,  and  (Ij(»  united  stream  mcel- 
inj5  the  diseharge  of  Seneca  and  Cayuj^a  hikes,  below  Monte- 
zuma, forms  Seneea  river.  The  peeuliar  construction  of 
tiiis  country  can  only  be  seen  by  recurrence  to  a  map ;  cither 
Luy*8  or  Kihly's  exhibits  with  precision  the  intej'loeking  wa- 
ters ;  but  neither  have  altendrd  >vitb  sufficient  care  to  the 
i-anges  of  liij;h  hnid.  The  best  map,  in  the  latter  respect, 
that  I  have  seen,  is  that  of  Mr.  Jolm  H.  Eddy,  of  the  "West- 
ern part  of  tlie  state  cf  New- York,  published  in  1811.  As 
.1  intend  (o  give  you  a  recapitulation  of  the  peculiar  geologi- 
cal structure  of  the  route  of  the  intended  Grand  Canal,  and 
contiguous  purts,  I  >rill  enter  less  minutely  at  present  into  a 
topograpliical  review  of  this  neighborhood.  You  will  hear 
from  me  a|»;ain  soon  after  my  arrival  at  Buffalo,  and  visit  to 
tlie  Falls  of  Niagara.  In  the  interim,  I  rcmiiin,  as  ever, 
Sincerely  yours. 


i^  i.;v? 


"  The  a])iive  surely  prp^<;ents  a  flatloriiignccouiit  of  llie  prospo- 
lity  of  tiio  pleasant  viilafl[e  in  wliich  it  is  our  liap})iiicss  to  (Iwcli. 
VViiile  otiiei'  ))laces  round  abont  ns  boast  linw  early  tlicy  liave 
become  j^i-ojit-  liow  by  niagfic  their  trees  have  been  converted 
into  iioiise.s — old  Canandaigiia  has  been  growing  apace,  display- 
ing the  stiu'ily  vii^or  and  healthful  aspect  of  natural  increase. 

*•  But  (lalteriiT:  as  this  acco:int  may  appear,  some  danger  is  to 
be  apprehended  from  the  number  of  taverns  and  groceries  em- 
braced in  liie  limits  of  the  village.  Who,  that  has  not  counted 
tlietn,  \vou:d  suspect  that  there  are  no  less  ihai^  fourteen  taverns? 
< )r groceries,  thpio  are  also  too  many.  The  public  convenience 
does  not  require  such  a  lunnber  of  inns,  and  their  toleration  can- 
not but,  be  (h'trinjental  to  the  morality  of  the  town.  Public  offi- 
<:ers,  whoso  duty  it  is  to  regulate  these  things,  should  recollect, 
that  it  is  niiich  easier  to  prevent,  than  to  root  out  the  evil,s  whiqU 
grow  from  such  causes^" 


UJ-.  % 


XET.  XI.] 


GREAT  WSSXEUX  CAXAL. 


iSi 


LETTER  XL 

[The  folloiving  correspondence  took  jAacc  after  mij  return 
to  tYhc-1  orfe,  and  tlicrcfore  nol  in  order  of  time  wiHi  the  other 
communications  made  during  r,iif  lour  ;  hut  Ising  rekcant  to 
the  subject  of  my  teller  from  Geneva  and  Canandaigiiat  I 
have  judged  it  most  expedient  to  insert  the  subject  in  this 
jilacc.] 

Xezv-Forl:,  Oclohcr  2, 181 S. 
William  Darry,  Emj. 

Sill, — Tlic  New-  York  Corrcspomling  Association  for  (he 
Prouiolion  of  Internal  Iniprovements,  solicit  youi*  tiid  ami 
patronage  towards  the  great  objects  of  (lie  inslitulion.  Will 
jou  please  to  answer  the  following  questions  : 

1.  What  canals  and  water  conununications  could  be  con- 
nected wi(h  (he  line  of  (he  great  western  canal,  in  our  state, 
for  the  pronnotion  of  internal  improvements  ? 

3.  What  great  roads  could  be  united  to  (holineof  the  west- 
ern canal,  in  our  state,  for  the  promotior<  of  the  same  object  ? 
S.  What  advantages  dues  New-Yrrk  possess  over  New- 
Orleans  for  supplying  the  country  north-west  of  the  Ohio 
river,  with  goods  and  njerchandizc  ? 

With  high  considerations  of  respect,  I  am,  sir, 

Yuur  obd't  servant, 

CHARLES  G.  HAINES. 

:\\iv-York,  Ocloher  11, 1813. 
Ma.  C.  G.  Haines, 

Sir — Yours  of  the  25th  ult.  was  duly  received,  but  the 
pressure  of  my  pi'ivate  business  on  vny  return  frojn  a  tour  of 
nearly  five  montlis,  prevented  an  earlier  attention  to  jour 
commuDication.  You  request  my  opinion  in  the  first  instanctt 
upon— 


"  <■■ 


i^td^i  ■sj^'' w^  rmt^-  - 


1.ET. 


136 


CURAT  WESTLUX  CINAI. 


[XET.    XI  r 


m 

■  N  J 

J;'. 


■^•"'l 


<«  ^Vl^at  canals  p.nil  wiiler  eo!niiuitiicu(i(ms  ooiild  lie  eon- 
noctetl  willi  <Iu'  line  of*  (he  f!;rt';it  >V('sfcrn  <'aiial,  inoursiutiv 
for  the  {H'oniorion  of  iiilcM'nul  improvciitcnls  " 

The  most  obvious,  and  by  I'ar  (lio  most  hcneficiSl  watri- 
coiiununiealioa  (liat  can  l)e  mad*^  luitwcen  the  great  v.cjU- 
oni  canal  and  eiiwimjacent  rivers,  is  the  contenijilated  canal 
between  the  head  of  Seneea  hike  and  the  SuscjiiehannR.*  If 
llie  two  eanals  were  now  eompleted  as  far  as  Seneca  hike 
sind  Cavnji;a  river,  the  inliahitants  of  Pennsylvania  and  Kew- 
York  states,  would  exchan.^e  their  heavy  but  invaiualile  ar- 
ticles ol'  eoal,  j;ypsum,  s;il(,  iron,  and  j)ot  metal. 

Three  obvious  points  of  wafer  connexion,  between  the 
threat  western  canal  and  lake  Ontario,  present  tliemEches — 
by  the  Niagara,  Genesee  and  Oswej^o  rivers,  ail  of  wliieli 
arc  obstructed  by  cataracts  of  more  or  less  depression  from 
the  lowest  part  of  the  plane  of.  the  canal  to  the  surface  of 
Che  lake. 

Before  procecdin;:;  farther  in  this  investigation,  permit  me 
to  make  a  few  geograpliieal  remarks.  Tiie  eomukcrcial  fa- 
cilities naturally  existing  between  the  Atlantic  states  and  the 
valleys  of  the  Mississippi  and  St.  Lawi'ence.f  may  be  divi- 
ded into  three  great  divisions;  whieli  we  will  designate  as 
the  Northern,  Middle  and  Southern.     All  that  part  of  (he 

•  *•  Inti'nial  Iinpvdvcmenis. — It  appears  ])y  a  roport  of  the  coni- 
missioDCJS  appointetl  to  explore  tlit'  route  of  a  contemplated  ca- 
nal, belwccii  Seneca  lake  and  Tioga  river,  that  there  can  be  ob- 
tained a  supply  of  water  at  iho  sinninit  level,  fulccpiate  for  every 
purpose — that  l!ie  fall  towards  Seneca  lake  is  140  feet,  and  will 
require 57  locks;  that  towards  Tioga  river  is  43  feet,  requiring  7 
locks.  Tlie  ienL'tli  of  the  canal  is  estimated  at  about  20  miles. 
Amons;  the  imUicenuMits  held  forth  for  oj)ening  this  navigation, 
are,  the  transportation  of  military  stores  to  the  frontier,  in  the 
event  of  future  wars,  and  to  send  our  salt  and  plaster  to  Pennsyl- 
vania, and  to  receive  Uieir  iron  and  coal  in  return." — i\*iagara 
Fatviut. 

t  By  tlie  valleys  of  the  Mississippi  and  St.  l.awrcncc  arc  here 
meant,  al!  the  legion  watered  by  ilie  tributary  streams  of  these 
mighty  vJvws. 


m-^ 


lET.   XII.] 


GREAT   WESTERN   CANAK. 


13? 


continent  of  Norlh  America^  watered  by  the  St.  Lawrence 
river  and  confluent  branches,  to  the  norili  of  the  Falls  ot* 
^yiagara,  must  have  a  (.oriimercial  outlet  and  inlet  by  that 

great  river,    through  Montreal   and  Quebee South    and 

Southwest  ot*  the  Rapids  of  Ohio,  at  the  town  of  Louisville, 
the  produce  of  human  industry  will  pass  to  New-Orlej^ns, 
and  the  articles  of  necessity  and  luxury,  not  found  in  the 
country,  will  be  purchased  in  that  city.  Between  the  Chute 
^^f  Niagara  and  that  of  Louisville,  from  the  Allegany  moun- 
tains to  the  sources  of  the  rivers  of  lake  Snpcrior,  will  form 
the  middle  commercial  district,  and  New-York,  Philadel- 
phia and  Baltimore,  will  divide  the  profits  of  exchange ; 
Cincinnati,  Pittsburg,  Doti*oit  and  Buffalo,  wi  e  in  the  mid- 
dle, what  Kingston  and  York,  in  Upper  Canada,  will  be  in 
the  northern,  and  what  Louisville,  St.  Louis,  Natthcz  and 
Natchitoches  will  be  in  the  soutltei-n  divisiun.  Partia!  inter- 
communications may,  and  no  doubt  will,  daily  occur  in  com- 
mercial exchange  between  the  points  of  contact  of  these 
natural  sections,  but  these  interchanges  must  be  viewed  as 
exceptions  to  a  great  permanent  rule  formed  by  nature  her- 
self. 

In.  examining  the  subject  of  any  improvement,  MAN 
ought  to  seek  what  is  practically  useful,  and  not  exhaust  upon 
idle  fanciful  speculation,  what  is  due  to  attainable  objects  of 
real  utility.  A  water  route  from  the  Atlantic  ocean  to  the 
immense  western  waters,  has  now  arrested  the  attention  of 
the  most  enlightened  citizens  of  New-York  and  Peimsylva- 
nia;  and  the  subject  is  one,  uiKtn  Avhich  the  |)cfif  of  the 
ablest  politicians  or  economists  of  these  great  states,  may 
be  most  beneficially  enfiployed. '  It  is  an  object  worthy  the 
deepest  reflection  of  a  public  mind,  at  once  rich  in  experience 
and  strong  in  moral  youth.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  in  the 
dcvelopemcnt  of  our  natural  advantages,  local  prejudices, 
party  and  personal  animosities  should  impede  ilm  progress  of 
rational  research.  It  is  wretched  logic,  to  confound  quei^ 
'  L 


I  4' 


'■  ff 


J 


jj^^l^j  i*!n,iM?"*  rwiMS" 


13» 


t;Uli'.T   WESTE;:^   CANAI. 


[let.    XII. 


■  i 


<  ':■  >'  " 

;> 

'l 

■4 

"4 

^  ■  -i  / 

.     «! 

.     '1^ 

t'iS' 

1 

lil' 

r. 

r''!i''i, 

i 

A-'\ 


tiuns  ot*  nndonal  infercst,  with  the  triilinp;  views  of  faction, 
or  the  imrrow  coneei»linas  of  corporntiori  pniilics. 

I  have  met  with  two  woikii  on  u  similar  siil>jec( ;  one, 
«<  A  (opogra|)hicaI  de9('rij)tion  of  (he  province  of  Lower 
Canada,  and  on  the  rchitive  connexion  of  hoth  provinces, 
>vith  the  United  States  of  ilmerita."  lly  Joskmi  Hou- 
gh ette,  Esq. 

I'he  other,  **  A  Slvetch  of  the  Internftl  Improvements  al- 
ready made  hy  Pennsylvania;  with  observations  upon  her 
physical  and  fiscal  means  for  tluir  extension  ;  paitieularly 
as  they  have  i-efereneo  to  the  future  growth  and  prosperity 
of  J*hiladelphia."     By  Sajickl  Brkck,  Esq. 

Whoever  reads  attentively  these  two  treatises,  will  I  regret 
to  say,  find  very  nearly  as  much  liherality  from  31  r.  Bou- 
chette.  respecting  the  United  States  in  general,  as  from  Mr. 
Brcck,  when  contrasting  the  city  of  Philadelphia  with  tho 
neighhouriug  cities  of  New- York  and  Baltimore,  and  partic- 
ularly New-Orleans.  The  latter  writer  indeed  appears  in 
one  point  to  extreme  disadvantage,  he  seems  to  consider 
Pennsylvania  as  aii  incidental  or  secondary  ohject,  when  in- 
cluded in  the  same  prospect  with  her  commercial  capital ; 
Mr.  Bouehelte,  to  his  credit,  extends  his  views  to  the  causes 
"\vhicli  may  lead  to  the  nggre/^ate  prosperity  of  all  the  Cana- 
das,  and  does  not  confine  his  anticipations  to  Quehec. 

To  a  reader  unacquainted  with  the  relative  political  posi- 
tion of  aflTairs  on  this  continent,  hoth  of  these  writers  would 
appear  to  he  inhabitants  of  countries  environed  w  ith  rival  and 
even  hostile  states.  This  spirit  of  rivalry  is  as  injurious  as 
a  generous  emulation  would  he  beneficial  to  the  progress  of 
improvement.  The  inherent  principles  of  human  nature 
will,  however,  operate,  iiiaugrc  all  that  sophistry  can  op- 
pose to  their  progress.  iMcn  will  carry  their  superabun- 
dance to  the  best  markets,  Avhelher  in  New-York,  Philadel- 
jdiia,  Baltimore,  New-Orleans,  or  elsewhere. 

Mr.  Breck,  page  I,'],  anticipates  the  time  when  the  com- 
merce of  the  wutcis  of  the   Missouri  and  Mississippi,  be- 


LET.    XII.] 


GREAT    WE8TEUN    C\NAt. 


I3» 


>onfI  (ho  tnuudi  of  Ohio,  will  cuiiic  (o  IMiiladelpliiii ;  in  fitie, 
(hal  an  era  will  arrive  uhcn  hninan  hciui^s  >vili  luil  i.tiUU 
utiles  inosdy  up  stream,  (u  uhtaiit  u  \yui'8<;  inaiUel  than  ihey 
could  find  by  floating  down  stream  half  (he  distance,  if  this 
prophecy  is  ever  reali/cd,  the  old  proverb,  •*  go  larthcr  and 
fare  worse,"  will  receive  a  very  remarkable  application. 

I  notice  Mr.  Breek's  work  as  it  embodies  niiicli  of  tho 
common  place  philosophy  on  the  subject  upon  which  I  am 
now  descanting.  To  consider  that  gained  (o  Pennsylvania 
M'hich  is  lost  by  New-York,  or  vice  tcrsu  is  just  about  as 
coi'reef,  as  it  would  be  for  an  individual  to  desire  a  palace 
for  a  residence  with  inud-walled,  thatched-covered,  liovcls» 
to  decorate  the  prospect  from  its  portals.  Jn  fact,  the  ad- 
vance of  any  city  or  state  of  our  comuioii  country  has  a  re- 
flective effect ;  tho  science,  wealth,  and  liberal  institutions 
of  any  part,,  must  shed  their  kindly  beams  upon  the  whole, 
and  the  illumination  must  bo  stronger  in  direct  ratio  to  ap- 
proximation to  the  centre  of  light. 

But  to  return  to  our  subject.  The  relaiive  territorial  ex- 
tent of  the  three  great  commercial  sections  of  the  central 
parts  of  our  continent,  is  as  nearly  as  I  estimate  them,  as 
follows : 


Sq,.  MILES. 

2i0,000 

320,000 

1,200,000 


Valley  of  the  St.  Lawrence  below  Niagara, 

Middle  or  central  section, 

South  and  southwestern  section, 

Each  of  these  grand  divisions  have  their  appropriate  ad- 
vantages, which  it  is,  t\nd  will  continue  to  be  the  duty  of  tho 
inhahitants  respectively  to  improve,  01*  (he  three,  the 
greatest  number  of  practical  and  indispensable  canals  and 
I'oads,  can  and  will  l>e  formed  in  the  middle  or  central  sec- 
tion. Until  the  completion  of  tl?e  great  Western  Canal  be- 
tween the  waters  of  the  river  iJudson,  and  those  oF  lake 
Eric,  that  between  the  Seneca  lake  and  the  Susquehanna 
river,  and  that  between  the  Hudson  river  and  lake  Cham- 


i: 


r'M»*«—'"w."J- 


iiV'^i^itmSfiae**-^^ 


Hi) 


GRKAT    WBsTF.nW    CAVAt, 


[LKT.    XII. 


-■r.:(- 


4  •■.■ 

t  * 


plain,  nn  otlieis  oiif^lit  to  bu  ever  beriousil^  (hou^iit  of  b^  llie 
oili/i'iis  of  (}iii)  M(u(«'. 

Yoiif  second  it  ijiiirv  is,  "  >Vhal  (iirat  Uosids  coiilil  be 
Unifefl  lo  llic  line  of  tbe  AVcHtern  Canal,  in  our  slate,  fur  llic 
promotion  of  ibe  Kunie  object  ?*' 

Tbi<4  latter  iri<|iiisiiion  woiil.i  admit  of  a  much  widei*  range 
tban  lite  lornier,   if  piiisiKMl   in  all    its  detailit ;    tbere  is 
i^eui'ecl^  five  mib'«  upon  (he  wlioiu  line  of  tbe  eanal,  from 
\vbi(;b  useful  and  neee88ai7  roads  ntay  not  bo  drawn  ;  but  of 
ibese,  two  oblrudc  (iieniMelveii    ^  immediate  nolice.     One  to 
the  village  of  Hamilton  upon  tbe  AHej^any  river,  in    Ca(a- 
rau.ijus  counl)',  and  the  other  belwern  (be  (owns  of  Buffalo 
and    Hamilton.     The  lad'ly  perceived  iwiportanec  of  these 
(WO  hitter  places,  has  prevented  (heir  having  excited  (he  in- 
terest they  so  eniinenily  deserve.     The  proper  point  of  eon- 
tact  with  the  eanal,  or  its  eoniluent  waters,  by  the  liamilton 
road,  is  somethin.^  di;!ieult  to  tix  with  precision,     ireneva, 
and  Canaudai^ua,  present  each  some  respective  advantaj^es 
of  position  when  contrasted  with  each  other;  and  have  cith- 
er- a  decided  superiority,  as  points  of  departure,  over  any  oth- 
er places  in  this  state.     1  have  visited  both  these  towns,  and 
iVoin  information  (here  received,  have  no  doubt  but  that  ex- 
cellent roads  can  be  formed,  fi'om  each  to  Jlamilton,  at  no 
extraordinary  expense.     If  I   was  called  upon  to  dici.ite  a 
plan  upon  this  subjeut,  I  would  direct  the  fornmtion  of  a 
turnpike  road  IVout  both  Geneva  and  Canandaigua,  in  the  di- 
rection towards  Hamilton.     These  roads  should  converge 
iiomewhere  in  the  northwest  angle  of  Steuben  county,  at  or 
near  the  village  of  Dansville,  or  Arkport,  and  run  thence 
to  Hamilton  by  Angelica.     No  roads  that  could  be  possibly 
formed  in  this  state,  in  addition  to  those  already  made,  would 
produce  so  great  and   insmediate  benefits,  as  these  I  have 
traced.     If  this  route  was  laid  open  by  good  roads,  it  would, 
even  independent  of  tlit^  Grand  Canal,  become  iiistanler  the 
thoroughfan'  between  the  New-England  states  and  the  Ohio 
Valley.    To  llioso  v/iio  are  acquainted  witii  the  extent  and 


jgrai 


! 


IJ£T.    XII.] 


^ORBAT   WE8TKnX   CAXAF.. 


lU 


muiis  of  (he  tide  of  eniigrution  now  sotting  »ou(itucs(,  and 
unnimlly  incruasin;;.  (he  udvunlagiH  of  such  a  roii(e  will  be 
apparent.  Much  eiiiharrassnienl  id  now  expeiionced  Uy  ein- 
i;;i'uh(s  iVom  MaHHachtisoKs,  New-Ilanip»ihire  and  Vermont 
8(ales,  (or  tiu*  want  of  a  diree(  and  euH^  means  of  (ranspoe- 
(nCion  to  I*i((Mburf;h.  No  part  of  (he  weH(ern  (i'rri(or^  of 
Nsw-York  h  ko  thinlj"  peopled,  as  (he  countrj'  included  in 
Steuben,  Allegan^'  and  ('a(araugUH  eonntiesj  good  roads 
would  (end  ^reull^  (o  eneourage  se((Iemen(. 

Though  not  equal  in  iinpor(anee  or  necessity  with  (he 
roads  from  llaniihon  (o  Canandaiguu  and  Geneva,  jet  a 
;;oud  solid  road  fi'om  Ifamillon  to  BuflTalo,  >vould  l>c  of  great 
iililitj  and  eonvcnienee  to  (he  people  who  inhabit  the  exiremo 
western  section  of  (his  state.  In  a  military  poin(  of  viov, 
the  latter  rond  would  be  of  incaleuluble  »d vantage  in  a  war 
with  Great  Britain,  in  opening  more  extensi\<  ly  (ban  at  pre- 
sent exists,  linrs  of  ready  eomniunication  with  our  interior 
and  Caiiailian  frontier. 

It  i'}  much  to  b«)  dcsii  rd  that  a  goo<1  road  was  also  carried 
from  Hamiiion  to  Pittsbtirg.  In  execution  of  such  a  work» 
the  people  of  New-Yoi  k  and  those  of  Pennsylvania  ought 
to  act  in  (oneert  :  both  parties  are  deeply  interested,  though 
the  former  rather  more  than  (he  latter,  as  the  country  upon 
the  Allegany  is  vet  but  thinly  inhabited.  From  the  inilu^ 
enec  of  frost  in  winter  and  heat  in  summer,  many  of  our 
rivers  are  rendered  useless  as  channels  of  communication, 
often  half  (he  year.  This  is  (he  ease  with  all  our  in(erior 
streams  north  of  Maryland.  Durable  roads  are,  therefore, 
as  indispensable  as  canals^  and  in  places  where  heat  may  ex- 
haust or  cold  congeal  water,  roads  and  canals  ought  to  be 
formed  co  existent,  and  made  la  their  turn  subservient  to 
the  facility  of  human  intercourse,  and  the  augmentation  of 
Iiuman  enjoyment. 

The  road  from  Utica  to  Sackct*s  Harbor^  though  already 

open,  demands  very  extensive  improvements.     I   travelled 

this  route  in  the  sceond  week  of  last  May^  and  found  main 

.La 


■|| 


^rS 


;?<yWWW?ranW? 


m^ 


.1 


112 


GREAT    WESTERN   CANAI.  [lET.    XII. 


li::- 


L  .-^t^.; 


I  *■■»*.- 


<& 


parts  in  a  wrctrhed  slate.  The  L»ason  was  indeed  cxtrcmdjr 
inclement  ;  n  time,  Ihcrefurc^  tliiit  the  roads  could  not  be 
exj-^eetcd  to  aftbi'd  pleasant  travelling  ;  but  if  they  were  well 
formed  and  preserved  with  care,  they  will  at  least  always 
secure  safe  conveyance.  It  would  be  waste  ol*  time  to  point 
out  llie  very  high  importance  o;  a  gocd  road,  solid  at  all 
seasons  ol*  the  year,  IVoni  the  interior  ot*  the  state  of  Kew- 
York,  to  the  most  exp'tsed  ar?d  by  far  the  most  valuable  :.iili- 
tary  and  navi-.l  station  on  ouv  Canadian  border. 

The  folio  •.iug  arr  {lie  stationary  distances  of  each  of  the 
proposit'd  I'OiitIs,  as  near  as  I  have  been  able  to  estimate.  The 
distil. 'ce  and  stations  upon  tlu;  road  from  Utica  to  Sackct'» 
Harbur,  wer»^  taken  from  the  former  to  the  latter  town. 
*y\w  others  are  takers  from  Kddy's  Map  of  New-York,  a  very 
meritorious  work  lutely  published  : 

FromUtica,  o\cr  the  alluvion  of  the  Mohawk 

river,  -  -  .  .         i  1.3 

Height  of  land  between  u'lc  Mohawk  and  lake 

Ontario,  ,  -  .  .         3  i.o — 5 

Tillage  of  Trenton,  .  _  _        8— —-13 

Sugar   Creek,   one  of  the  head   branches   of 

Black  river,  ...  23 30 


Thus  fir  the  road  is  now  tolerable,  but  from  Sugar  Creek 
itjfollows,  generally,  ihe  valley  of  Black  river,  and  is  in  ma- 
ny places  barely  passable,  in  the  sprii:g  season. 

Marlinsburgh,  seat  of  justice  for  Lewis  coun- 
ty* -  -  -  -  li  3-'i--50  3* 
Lowville,            -            -            .            -         3  1-^ — 51  i-i, 
Deer  river,  a  large  and  impetuous  l>ranch  of 
Black  river — a  good  wooden  b.  Idge  where 

the  road  passes,  ...       10 

"Watertown,  on  the  left  bank  of  Black  rivei*,  16 — 

Hrownvillc,  rlgla  bank  of  Black  river,  4 

Saeket's  Uaibor,  -  -  ,         jj 


—C'h  3-1, 
—80  3.* 

—Si  3-i 


.— 0 


\ 


,.hI 


i      'I 

■ 


II 


I.BT.    XII.] 


6RBA.T   WESTERN   CAXAL- 


iiS 


A  direct  road  runs  from  Watertown  to  Sacket's  Harbor, 
distance  S  miles,  hut  at  the  time  I  travelled  the  country,  this 
latter  road  was  pronounced  im{)assable.  I  was,  therefore, 
obliged  to  take  the  more  circuitous  route  hy  BrownviHe,  and 
of  coursft  traverse  Black  river  twice.  Good  bridges  have 
bi'on  foriiiod  over  that  precipitous  stream,  at  Watertown  and 
at  Bruwnville. 

Reulefrom  Geneva  to  Hamiltoiu 
Heigiit  of  land  between  Canandaigua  and  Crooked 

lakes,  .  .  -  -  -  SO 

Ark  port,  -----       20 50 

Angelica,  -  -  -  .  -      20 — -70 

Haniihon,  -  -  -  -  -    .so_ioo 

Intersecling  route  niith  the  above,  from  Cannadaigua. 
Naples,  -  .  -  -  -  20 

Arkport,  -    .        -  -  -  -         23 — 13 

From  tiie  foregoing  it  will  be  seen,  that  the  distance  from 
Geneva  is  100,  and  from  Canandaigua  93  miles,  to  Hamilton. 
The  land  distances  could  be  sliortcned  Uy  passing  hy  water 
from  Geneva,  through  the  Seneca  and  Crooked  lakes,  and 
jli'om  Canandaigua,  by  the  Canandaigua  hie.  If  the  proposed 
roads  were  made,  it  is  probable  they  would  intersect  near 
(he  Conhocton  branch  of  Susquehanna,  or  between  the  Con- 
hocton  and  Arkport.  Diverging  roads  could  be  easily  form- 
ed from  the  main  lines  to  the  heads  of  Canandaigim,  Seneca, 
and  Crook <^d  lakes,  and  thus  open  still  more  extensively  tho 
channels  of  transportation,  in  a  very  improvable  and  im- 
proving country. 

From  the  head  of  Crooked  lake  to  Bath  or  the  Conhoc- 
ton, is  only  about  5  miles.     From  Bath,  rafts  and  boats  can 
be  and  have  been  conveyed  down  the  Conhocton  into  the  main 
stream  of  Tioga,  and  finally  into  the  Susquehanna  river. 
Route  from  Hamilton  to  Buffalo, 

MILES. 

Cataraugus  Creek, SO 

Buffalo,  -        .        -        -        -        -        -J'       30-.6i 


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This  disfHrtce  is  measured  upon  <he  map  direct ;  it  is  not, 
however,  pi'obable,  that  a  road  eould  in  reality  l»e  made  in 
less  (lian  70  or  75  miles  betTvecn  Buffalo  and  Hamilton.    The 
face  of  the  country  from  the  Allegany  river  to   Cataraugus 
ereck,  and  for  some  considerable  distance  north  of  the  lat- 
ter stream,  rises  into  high  hills.     The  road  would  cross  the 
tabic  land  between  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  those  of  lake 
Krie.     It  may  not  he  irrelevant  to  remark,  in  this  place,  a 
circumstance  oT    onsidcrable  import  in  the  investigation  of 
the  subject  of  I  he  connexion  between  lake  Erie  and  Ohio 
river.     By  actual  admeasurement,  as  reported  by  Mr.  Gal- 
latin, Brown ville,   or  rather  the  Monongahela  river  at  that 
town,  is  elevated  850  feet  above  tide  water  in  Chesapeake 
Bay ;  and   by  careful   measurement  made  in  preparing  for 
the  cemmencement  of  the  great  western  canal,  the  surface 
of  hike  £rie  is  elevated  565  feet  above  the  tide  water  in  the 
Hudson  river  at  (he  city  of  Albany.     From  this  data,  the 
Monongahein  at  Frownville,  is  2S5  feet  higher   than  th<$ 
surface  of  lake  Erie.     I  am  well  acquainted  with  the  Mo- 
nongahela  river  between  Brownvillc    and  Pittsburg,   and 
cannot  be  induced  to  consider  the  waterfall  front  the  fot^mei* 
to  the  latter  place  above  45  or  50  feet  perpendicular  ;  which 
estimate,  if  correct,  would  yield  a  fall  of  nearly  250  feet 
from  Pittsburg  to  Buffalo.     This  statement  will  be  relieved 
from  all  improbability  by  a  very  cursory  glance  upon  a  map 
of  ou:  continent.     The  much  greater  distanec  from  Pitts- 
burg  to   tide   waC?r  in   the  gulf  of  Mexico,   than   from 
Buffalo  to  tidt)  water  in  St.  Lawrence  river  will, be  apparent. 
.It  has  been  found  from  actual  survey,  as  marked  upon  Ed- 
dy's map  of  Niagara  river,  that  the  difference  of  level  be- 
tween lake  Erie  and    Ontario  is  33i.  feet.     Supposing  the 
gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Hudson  river  at  Albany  to  be 
on  a   level,  nnd  the   distance  cannot  be  considerable,  there 
are  505,  less  .33 i,  or  331    feet  as  the  fall  of  water  from  the 
bottom  of  lake  Ontario,  to  tide  water  in  St.  Lawrence  river  ; 
a  prodigious  depression  for  the  dii^tance^  and  amply  accounts 


JiET.  XII.] 


GREAT    WESTEUN    CANAI. 


lid 


for  (lic  r&pidity  of  the  rapids  at  Grand  Gullop,  Point  Iro- 
quois, Rapid  Plat,  Grand  Saut,  and  St.  Mark's  Rapid  below 
Montreal. 

Assuming  the  ahovc  heights  and  depressions  as  eorreet, 
there  will  be  about  250  feet  from  any  intervening  point  more 
depression  to  reach  the   waters  of  lake  Erie  than  those  of 
the  Ohio  at  Pittsburg.    The  dividing  ridge  approaches  in 
Cataragus  eounlj',  near  Portland,  vilhin  less  than  five  miles 
of  lake  Erie.     Sailing  along  that  lake,  within  about  three 
miles  from  the  New- York  shore,  this  lidge  appeared  to  me 
to  be  1000  feet  high  ;  some  of  its  points  I  was  then  led  to 
believe  at  least  2G0  feet  still  more  elevated  than  the  general 
range  of  the  hills.     About  20  miles  S.  W.  of  Buffalo  this 
ridge  fii  st  appears  distinetlj   visible   from  Lake  Erie,  and 
continues  in  view  beyond  the  town  of  Erie,  and  from  thence 
gradual!}'  retires  into  the  state  of  Ohio^  in  clear  weather  it, 
however,  remains  in  sight  from  the  lake,  even  opposite  the 
mouth  of  Sandusky  bay.    Iluron  and  Cayahoga  rivers  in- 
dent it,  and  when  opposite  the  mouths  of  these  streams  it 
disappears,  but  in    the  intervening   space  rises  prominent 
above  (he  adjacent  country. 

Your  third  and  last  subject  of  enquiry  is,  «  What  advan- 
tage does  New-York  possess  over  New-Orleans,  for  supply- 
ing the  country,  north-west  of  the  Ohio  river,  with  goods  and 
merchandize  ?" 

To  this  interrogatory,  I  would  answer  briefly,  that  as 
matters  now  stand,  it  would  be  nearly,  if  not  altogether  as 
cheap,  to  ship  goods  and  merchandize  from  the  foi'mer  to 
the  latter  city,  and  have  them  thence  transported  by  water 
to  Cincinnati,  or  even  to  Pittsburg,  as  it  would  be  to  con- 
vey them  by  the  embarrassing  land  and  water  routes  now  ex- 
isting between  the  Hudson  and  Ohio  rivers."^    The  eomple- 

•  On  this  subject  I  have  since  found  that  I  wns  mistaken,  as 
the  following  documents  will  show.  If  in  the  present  situntioti 
of  atfairs,  goods  can  be  transported  ns  stated  from  New- York  in 
Pittsburg,  consequences  (lowing  from  the  Grand  Canal  are  easy 
to  foresee — a  very  great  commercial  revolution. 


1^ 


'A  I 


1^6 


GREAT   AVESTEUJf   CANAL. 


[let.  XII. 


tion  oP  (lie  cnnal  from  the  Mohawk  (o  the  Seneca,  and  a  good 
I'oud  from  tlience  to  Hamilton,  would*  if  nothing  else  was 
done,  cliange  (he  face  of  aifairs.  New-York  would  thencn- 
jo;;^  the  heneftts  of  her  nearer  approximation  to  the  water  of 
tiie  Ohio  ;  she  would  he  cnahled  to  counterbalance,  by  her 
existing  capital,  the  superior  local  advanfages  of  New-Or- 
leans ;  and  she  would  forever  preserve  her  now  relative  rank 
amongst  (he  cities  of  the  Jnited  States.  If  a  direct  water 
communication  was  open  with   lake  Erie^   the  resources  of 


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FROM  THE  ALBANY  ARGUS. 

"  Fn  our  columns  of  to-day,  Avill  be  found  an  advertisement  for 
tbo  tmnsporlalioii  of  inercliaudiriC  to  the  western  states  and  ter- 
ritories ;  and  wc  have  likewise  subjoined  the  printed  lists  of  loutes 
to  Pittsburg,  througli  the  state  of  New-York,  and  cannot  but  ex- 
pr(?ss  our  jistonislnnent  that  the  elforts  of  the  adventurer  to  ac- 
quire for  this  state  so  very  hicrativea  branch  of  commerce,  have 
hitherto  boon  utuiided  by  an  enlightened  public.  Fronj  the  above 
nictiliouod  list  it  appears,  that  by  two  routes  property  can  be  con- 
veyed from  the  city  of  New- York  to  Pittsburg,  in  the  state  of 
Pennsylvania,  for  five  dollars  per  cwt. ;  by  a  third  at  five  dollars 
and  a  half,  and  by  a  fourth,  at  five  dollars  and  three  quarters  per 
cwt.  The  largest  estimate  as  to  time,  does  not  exceed  forty  days  ; 
the  residue  thirty  to  thirty-five  days. 

"  li  has  been  said,  that  the  western  merchants  are  generally  anx- 
ious to  buy  their  goods  in  New- York,  where  assortments  are  more 
easily  obtained,  at  a  cheaper  rate,  than  at  Philadelphia  :  but  that 
tlie  risk  and  delay  of  the  voyage  by  sea,  or  the  expense  of  land 
carriage,  from  New- York,  compels  them  tt)  give  the  former  place 
a  jMeferencc  :  in  fine,  that  Pl)iladelj)hia  and  Baltimore  have  re- 
II  liar  forwarding  establishments  on  which  the  western  trader  can 
ill  all  times  rely  ;  while  New- York  for  want  of  capital  or  enter- 
prize,  cannot  allbrd  them  the  same  accommodation. 

'•  The  object  of  the  advertiser  appears  to  be,  to  convince  the  mer- 
chants of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee,  by  offering  to  them  the  choice 
of  four  distinct  routes,  Ihut  New- York  possesses  advantages  sm- 
pcrior  to  those  of  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland;  that  in  no  case 
will  his  charge  per  cwt.  equal  that  of  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore 
per  hundred  pounds  ;  and  (hat  if  the  purchases  be  made  in  the 
city  of  Now  York,  the  mode  of  conveyance  now  recommended, 
on  the  score  of  snfety  and  expedition,  must  claim  a  decided  pre- 
ference 

"  We  confess  ourselves  converts  to  the  correctness  of  his  opin- 
ions— indeed,  all  dotibt^  are  removed  bv  tlie  rircmnstance  of  his 


I.BT.    XI 1.] 


GREAT    WESTERX    CAXAli. 


147 


Ihe  stale  and  (his  city  wouW  lie  still  more  enlarged.  AVc 
have  heen  in  (he  liahit  of  luidervaluing  (he  regions  watered 
by  the  eouilucnt  wa(er9  of  (he  Canadian  lakes.  The  real 
fact  hf  (lva(  in  many  respects  the  countries,  contiguous  to  (he 
great  ehain  of  interior  seas,  are  superior  (o  mos(  parts  of 
our  con(inen(  of  equal  ex(en(.  The  soil  is  generally  goo(% 
and  every  where  produce,  in  abundance,  (he  Cereal  gramniu. 
To  (he  wcs(  of  Niagara,  as  far  as  lake  Superior,  (he  cli- 
mate is  mild.     All  (he  shores  of  lakes  Erie  '^nd  Michigai > 

engagement  to  transport  at  those  prices ;  and  it  is  no  more  than 
justice  to  express  our  conviction,  tliat  J\lr.  Smyth  would  not  un- 
dertake what  lie  caimot  perform.  Apart  from  the  advantages 
which  would  accrue  to  those  of  our  citizens,  who  are  immedi- 
ately concerned  in  this  carrying  trade,  the  general  interests  of 
our  state  would  L»  ^^'reatly  promoted  by  tlie  success  of  the  con- 
templated project.  The  mere  expenditure  of  one  million  of  dol- 
lars* per  annum,  at  which  the  transportation  from  Philadelphia 
and  Baltimore  to  Pittsburg  has  been  calculated,  enormous  as  the 
amount  may  be  considered,  would  be  trifling  in  comparison  to  the 
increase  of  active  commerce  in  our  cities — of  the  immense  ac- 
cession of  patronage  and  support  to  ir  sleam-boati  and  other 
numerous  establishments  in  the  interior. 

"  The  trouble  and  expense  of  maturing  these  extensive  ar- 
rangements, must  have  been  sufiicient  to  appal  and  discourrige 
an  ordinary  mind.  Mr.  Smyth  deserves  great  pi^ise  for  his  en- 
terprizc  and  perseverance,  and  when  we  consider  the  interest 
which  the  state  has  at  stake  in  the  success  of  the  undertaking,  we 
most  heartily  wish  that  this  public  spirited  individual  may  fully 
lealizc  the  fruition  of  his  hopes." 

"  Mavy,  1 6th  Xot'ember,  1818. 
"  T  take  the  liberty  to  lay  before  you  the  atMiexed  Advertise- 
ment and  liist  of  Routes  to  Pittsburg.  In  addition  to  thesiatc- 
ments  therein  contained,  allow  me  to  inform  yon,  that  during  tl.r 
winter  season,  transportation  to  any  point  west  of  Albany  can  be 
obtained  at  very  reduced  prices.  If  goods  thcrcfori^  wece  pur- 
chased in  New- York  immediately  before  the  closing  of  the  river, 
and  shipped  to  this  city  to  wait  for  sleighing,  they  can,  beyond  a 
doubt,  be  delivered  at  Olean  for  .^2.50  per  cwt.,  with  a  ct  rtainfy 
of  reaching  Pittsburg  on  or  about  the  first  of  April.  Wink  r 
transportation  between  New-York  and  Albany  never  exceeds 
three  dollars,  and  is  frerpiently  no  more  than  two  dollars  per  cwi, 

*  We  bave  seen  this  expense  stated  Ht  three  minions  of  dollars  per  aiuiim. 


i '  il 


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an(1?grnat  part  of  (hose  of  Iliirony  will  afiurd  fine  se((Ie. 
ineiils.  liVith  but  vei7  few  cxceplions,  those  regions  are 
hcalthj  and  supplied  with  excellent  water. 

Let  the  produce  of  their  labor  pass  where  it  niaj,  the 
uumber  of  human  beings  that  are  now  daily  pasting  Buftiilo 
^vill  soon  dissipate  the  forests  and  supply  their  places  with 
(owns,  villages,  farm-houses,  fields,  iiieiidows,  orehard»,  and 
gardens.  The  beautiful  and  highly  eultivatcd  lands  of  the 
strait  of  Erie,  are  now  a  s])eeiinen,  of  what  in  forty  year» 
will  be  the  landscape  from  ISiagara  to  Chicaga. 


"  Although  the  navigation  of  tlie  Allegany,  from  Olean  to. 
Pittsburg,  may  be  depended  upon  moio  safely  in  the  spring  and  au- 
tumn than  during  the  summer  months,  yel  a  person  well  acquaint- 
ed with  that  river  has  engaged  to  convey  for  me  any  quanlity  of 
property,  at  least  once  a  week,  and  appears  to  feel  tJie  utmost 
confidence  in  his  ability  to  reach  Pittsburg  at  all  times  between 
April  and  Decemlwr,  in  eight  days. 

"  Respectfully  soliciting  your  influence  in  favor  of  the  under- 
taking, I  remain 

"  Your  most  Obed'».  Serv't. 

"CHARLES  SMYTH.'" 

*'  TRANSPORTATION  TO  PITTSnURG,  THROUGH  THE  STATE  OK 

NEW  YORK. 

"  The  subscriber  having  lately  formed  a  connexion  with  a  gen* 
tleman  residing  near  the  liead  waters  of  the  Allegany  river,  agaia 
olFers  his  services  to  the  Merchants  of  the  Western  States  and 
Territories,  as  agent  to  transpoit  property  of  every  description 
from  the  city  of  New- York  to  Pittsburg,  in  the  slate  of  Pennsyl- 
vap'a.  Assortments  of  goods,  (not  single  packages,  or  those 
whuse  bulk  is  out  of  all  proportion  to  their  weight)  if  shipped  at 
New-York  on  board  the  sloops  of  the  '  Western  Link,'  will  be 
delivered  at  Pittsburg  for  J'lVfc  Dollars  per  cwt.,  all  charges, 
except  cooperage,  included.  Six  months  credit,  with  interest, 
will  likewise  be  given,  when  demanded,  for  approved  New- York 
or  Albany  acceptances. 

"  For  more  particular  information,  printed  lists  of  tl^e  several 
New- York  routes  have  been  transmitted  to  Messrs.  Richard  Bow- 
en  &  Co.  Pittsburg,  and  Mr.  Benjamin  Armitage,  No.  54  Pine-« 
street,  New-York. 

«  CHARLES  SMYTH, 

^'Mbany,  \CthA''ovemberj\S\9.^^ 


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LET.   XII.] 


ALCAT  WE8TEUN  CAl7At. 


146 


It  is  a  very  gratifying  anticipation,  to  behold  in  our  fancy 
the  epoch  to  come,  when  this  augmenting  mass  of  population 
will  eujoy,  in  the  interior  of  this  vast  continent,  a  choice 
collection  of  immense  marts,  where  the  produce  of  the 
hanks  (Wi'  innumerabie  rivers  and  lakes  can  be  exchanged, 


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CUE  AT  WESTERN  CANAL. 


[let.   XII. 


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on  or  near  (he  shores  of  ihc  Atlantic  ocean  for  the  conven- 
iences of  Europe,  and  (he  luxuries  of  the  Indies. 

In  (he  Edinburgh  Review^  for  June,  1818,  when  speaking 
of  Mr.  Morris  Birbeck's  (our  in  America,  and  (he  stream 
of  popula(ion  passing  from  (he  borders  of  (he  Adantic  ocean 
into  (he  region  we  now  call  reladvely  western  :  occurs  (his 
remarkable  passage  : 

*f  Where  is  this  prodigious  increase  of  numbers,  (his  vast 
ex(ension  of  dominion  (o  end  ?  Wha(  bounds  has  na(ure  set 
to  (he  progress  of  (his  migh(y  na(ion  ?  Let  our  jealousj 
burn  as  i(  may ;  let  our  intolerance  of  America  be  as  un- 
reasonably violent  as  we  please  ;  still  it  is  plain  (hat  she  is  a 
power  in  s;)i(e  of  us,  rapidly  rising  (o  supremacy  ;  or,  at 
leas(,  (hat  each  year  so  mightily  augments  her  strength,  as 
to  overtake,  by  a  most  sensible  distance,  even  (he  most  for- 
midable of  her  competi(ors.  In  foreign  commerce  she  comes 
nearer  (o  England  (ban  any  odier  maritime  power,  and  al- 
ready her  mercan(ile  navy  is  within  a  few  thousand  (ons  of 
our  own  !  if  she  goes  on  as  rapidly  for  (wo  or  (hree  years, 
she  mus(  over(ake  and  ou(s(rip  us." 

Such  are  the  impressions  already  made  in  Europe  by  our 
existing  state,  such  (he  views  of  our  fu(ure  progress  !  The 
bounds  (hat  na(ure  may  have  in  preparation,  to  limit  the 
prosperittji  wealthf  power  or  science,  of  (he  people  of  the 
United  S(ates  will  never  be  seen  by  either  you  or  me.  With 
sentiments  of  sincere  esteem^  I  am,  dear  sir,  yours, 

WILLIAM  DARBY. 
CuARLBs  G.  Haines,  Esq."^ 

Cor.  Sec'ry.  of  the  Socie-  {^ 

(y  for  the  Promotion  off 

Internal  Improvements.    J 


n, " 


t.-ki; 


iET.   XIII.] 


BtflfALO; 


ioL 


LETTER  XIII, 

Buffalo,  July  31,  1818. 
Dear  Sib, 

On  (he  ^2M\i  inst.  I  left  Ganandaigua,  and  arrived  here  on 
the  27(h.  I  have,  as  usual  reuiiUeU  (he  HtH(ionai7  distances, 
as  by  recurrence  (o  particular  places  I  can  more  clearly 
convey  precise  information  upon  the  topogr.iphy  of  the  coun- 
try. 

JHiles. 
—2 

2 k 

-     1 5 

1 G 

1 7 

1        8 

2  1-2—10  1-2 

3  -—13  1-2 

lr2— Ifc 

1-2— li<  1-2 
1  1-2— IC 

1  1-2—17  1-2 
3  1-2—21 

3        —2* 

2  —26 
S-i — 26  3-i 

3  1-2—30  1-4 
3  1-2-33  3-4 
2  1-2—36  l-i 
2  3-4— 3 U 
i        —43 
2        —43 


From  Canandaigua  to  Rosses, 
Bates's  &  Shaw *s, 
Steel's, 
Loomis's, 
Carter's 

Church  in  Bloomfteld, 
Eagle's, 

West  Bloonifield, 
Honeoy  creek. 
Minor's, 
Tinker's, 
Lima  Church, 
Brown's  in  Avon, 
W.  T.  Hosmer's, 
Alhert  ilosmer's, 
Genesee  river  and  bridge, 
Sylvester  Hosmcr's, 
Caledonia, 
IN  ash's, 

Ganson's  in  Leroyville, 
Clark's, 
Ugnicls's, 


>  IS 


i*? 


152 


m 


m 

■  ■  s . 


BLFPALO.                                  j^LET.    XIII. 

•Miles. 

Chufchiirs,              -             -             .          2 

-17 

Ef;gle8ton*9»             -             •             -          1  1 

-2— i8  1-2 

llATAVIA,             -             -             -         ^1-2—51 

McCrucken's  bri(]{>c  over    Tonnnvanta 

creek,             ...               4 

—53 

Wilcox's,             ...              2 

—57 

Tou9e!ej^*s,            ...          2 

—59 

Murder  creek,             -             •»             -     6 

—65 

Holines*s,            ...             4 

—69^ 

Porter's,             *             «             .                8 

—77 

Miller's,             .             .             -               j, 

—81 

Ilenshaw'Sy            ...          1 

—82 

Ilopkiii's,            -            -            -             1 

—83 

Atkins's,             ...               3 

—86 

Averill's,             -             -             -              3  i 

-2—88  1  3 

BUFFALO,            .            -            -21 

-2—91 

Leaving  Cunnndaigua,  the  country  along  the  road  for  sev- 
eral miles  continues  flat,  and  in  sonic  places  even  swampy. 
The  soil  exuberantly  fertile,  timber,  sugar  maple,  eln^,  lin- 
den, nhite  hickory,  ash,  hemlock,  and  some  oak.  Tho 
iarmF  have  a  fine  appearance,  and  the  whole  country  seemed 
in  a  state  of  rapid  improvement.  The  rapidity  in  which  the 
public  houses  succeed  each  other,  evince  the  great  publicity 
of  the  road. 

Great  pains  have  been  taken  in  West  New-Tork,  to  open 
and  render  convenient  the  highways  ;  but  in  few  countries 
are  the  construction  of  good  roads  more  difficult.  The  rich 
fertility  of  the  soil,  and  its  depth  of  vegetable  mould,  though 
so  very  desirable  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view,  oppose 
very  serious  obstacles  against  the  formation  of  roads.  In 
the  winter  season,  unless  when  the  surface  is  completely  fro- 
zen, travelling  must  in  this  quarter  be  very  difficult  and 
painful. 

Approaching  Bloomfield,  a  very  great  change  in  the  as- 
pect of  the  ground  is  visible  ,*  the  dull  monotony  now  disap- 


i 


I'l 


3.Er.    XIII.] 


CENKSr.K    RITEU. 


15. J 


pears,  hills  gradually'  rise  into  eotisidernble  eU'valiun.  A 
cireuinstaiicc  is  here  iippurent  I  hut  in  reall}'  a  inatler  ui'  as- 
lotiishiiient.  As  you  perceive  (he  surraec  of  the  earth  swel- 
ling into  eminences,  you  liud  (he  ritlgcH  ail  lying  [mraUel  to 
each  other,  and  to  (lie  chain  ol'  lakes  which  f'urni  (he  hieneea 
river.  This  configuration  eonlinues  (o  BulFalo,  and  to  (he 
Falls  of  Niagara.  In  ittaiiy  parts  of  (he  road  I  found  my- 
self contluuaUy  rising;  and  falling  over  (his  chain  of  ridges  ; 
and  C4)uld  not  avoid  observing,  (hut  if  their  intervening  val- 
lies  were  lilled  with  water,  a  cluster  of  islands  would  be  pro- 
duced, of  astonishing  re&emblanec  to  that  of  the  Gallops  in 
St.  Lawrence  river.  The  ridges  have  the  same  regular 
globular  swell  which  you  will  remeuiber  I  have  noted,  as 
eliaructeristie  of  ihe  features  of  the  Gallops. 

Hcliistose  limestone  ex(retneiy  iissure<l,  is  (he  first  rock 
tiral  is  seen,  overlaid  by  sand,  rounded  pebble,  and  vege(ablo 
earth.  No  far(her  change  worth  no(ice  occurs  between 
Canandaigua  and  Genesee  river.  That  stream  has  a  very  di- 
Hiiuutive  aspect,  I  am  convinced  that  all  travellers  arc  dis- 
appointed in  their  anticipations  of  its  volume.  \Vhen  I  pas- 
sed the  Genesee,  its  waters  were  rippling  over  its  pebbly  bed 
at  (he  bott-om  of  a  deep  but  narrow  channel,  of  not  above 
bO  yards  in  width.  A  good  substantial  covered  wooden 
•bridge  has  been  erected  where  the  «x)ad  passes. 

The  west  side  of  (his  river  for  abou(  (wo  miles,  is  formed 
by^what  is  called  (he  Gcnesoc  flats.  These  are  extensive  allu- 
vial plains  ;  (he  part  passed  by  the  road  is  held  by  the  Seneca 
Indians,  and  like  all  lands  under  the  control  of  savages,  lies 
mosily  in  its  natural  state. 

Passing  the  flats,  a  country  commeRces  essentially  difler- 
cnt  from  that  east  of  Genesee.  Oak  becomes  now  the  pre- 
valent timber,  a  very  serious  deterioration  of  soil  prevails, 
every  object  bespeaks  a  region  of  much  less  productive  pow- 
er, than  that  which  gives  bloom  to  the  vicinity  of  Geneva 
and  Canandaigua.     Farms  are  now  less  frequent^  and  have 

M 


4 


i 
I 


U:   'I 


V- 


1 


,'.1 


,AM 


TQ'T^fKM'AJfTV   CRBEK. 


[lkt.  xiii: 


yfiu'lcss  prosperous  fenlures  thav  (hose  I  sumucli  aduiired  to 
''  Hie  enslwurd. 

Appronching  Balnvia*  (he  seat  of  jnstiee  In  ficnesce  coiin* 
<y,  another  change  presi'n(s  its  varietj  ;  ponds  and  flats  in- 
lervcnc  nmongst  the  hills,  and  give  to  (he  hottums  of  the 
Tonnewnnta  (he  look  of  rreent  and  moist  alluvion.  Uatnvia 
is  a  nourishing  village,  hut  to  me,  neither  its  improvements 
or  scito  was  so  pleasing  as  I  e.xpeeted.  I  remained  one 
night  in  (his  town,  (Julv  2o(h)  and  on  the  morning  of  (ho 
2Cth  sat  out  for  Buftalo.  The  road  follows  for  some  miles 
(he  valley  of  the  muddvand  sluggish  Tonnes  an(a.  Had  not 
(he  (iroher  prevented  sueh  a  deception,  I  might  have  imagi- 
ned myself  following  the  sinuosities  of  a  stream  of  the  low- 
er Louisiana  ;  but  the  dark  green  of  the  immense  hemloek 
forests,  reminded  me  that  I  was  traeing  another  region. 
Hemlock,  bccch,.sugar  maple,  and  linden,  compose  the  mass 
of  the  limber.  The  soil  is  excellent,  but  too  flat  for  cither 
health  or  very  beneficial  culture.  Hohistosc  limestone  forms 
the  base,  overlaid  as  I  have  before  noted. 

After  passing  a  short  distance  over  Murder  creek,  the  road 
leaves  the  Tonnewanta,  and  rises  into  a  hilly,  broken  country, 
in  which,  h  vvevcr,  some  tolerable  extensive  flats  occur. 
This  part  of  the  country  is  rendered  most  worthy  of  rc*> 
mark,  from  the  enormous  masses  of  schistose  fissured  blue 
limestone.  Many  places  are  seen  where  this  rock  covers 
large  spaces,  and  has  every  appearance  of  having  once  form- 
ed the  bed  of  a  body  of  water.  I  did  not  perceive  the  exis- 
tance  of  shells  in  the  composition  of  this  sfone»  but  my  time 
and  opportunity  was  too  limited  to  admit  extensive  research  ; 
to  note  the  general  appearance  of  the  country  was  all  that 
was  in  my  power.  Timber  in  (his  neighborhood,  pinc>  elm* 
sugar  maple ;  soil  fertile,  though  agriculture  must  in  many 
places  be  incommoded  by  the  large  bodies  of  naked  or  slight- 
ly covered  limestone. 

Water  coiirses  all  flow  north-west  into  the  Tonnewanta, 
Afld  every  where   wash  tlio  rough  surface  ol"  the  fractured 


M 


r.  XIII. 
nircd  to 

pe  coiin- 
flit<8  in- 
8  of  the 
llatnvia 
venients 
Di'd  one 
^  of  iho 
[\\V  \u'\\{^» 
Had  not 

(l»e  low- 
hiinloek 
•  region. 

he  mass 
n'  cithei' 
iie  ioruis 

the  road 
country. 
Is  occur, 
ly  of  re*- 
I  red  hluc 
k  covers 
ice  form- 
the  exis- 
iny  time 
esearch : 
all  that 
inc,  elm* 
in  many 
>r  slight- 

ne>\anta. 
r  act  u  red 


#•'     ' 

»••>•!'• 

..... 

.... 

... 

.••^...4^....» 

<-«••• 

.,.»^.. 

•••«•*••«- 

inrji'i'A.N  siKrTironrufihfiJMKirp  .s 

tl/  ff'vtitcr  ti,<ml.ttkt' Krit  li>  the  htad  >•/"  the    r,ip. 
'tt>' .  in  the  ritpiJ^ 

»  art  at  fatU  '  i/n  the-  A^'w  K>rh  side/ 

7  fhiVti  the  A'tt/ls  /.'  Aefijtiitrtfn  tot  teet        &,'r 


\'  *•! 


IV. 


m 


,'4^. 


Wm 


STRAITS  of  ^lACiARA 

KNGKAVKP  for   D.JRBYS   TOTTR.. 


J"tl{ 


n'.lfccfcer  jfc. 


•!      1, 


• '  ■'  ■'(' 


•.^■:; 


i; 


LET.   XIII.3 


n^}ttx^o, 


io.b 


T^£L 


M 


limestone^  and  bofore  reaching  the  main  stream  fall  over 
consideralilo  precipices  of  (he  same  rock. 

Five  miles   from  BulTalo,  at  Atkins's,  near  the  seat  of 
judge  Granger*  tiie  last  of  those  creeks  crGss  (he  road,  and 
within  al)out  two  hundred  yards  to   the   north  of  where  it 
passes*  the  road  falls  down  a  considerable  ledge.    The  coun- 
try then  assumes  a  waving  rather  than  a  hilly  appearance, 
to  within  aliQjjt  a  mllA  from  BuiTuIo*  when  an  almost  uniform 
plain  commences^  which  is  terminated  by  the  banks  of  lake 
Eric. 
It  was  evening  when  I  arrived  in  Buffalo*  therefore  unable 
'  to  gratify  my  curiosity  l»y  a  review  of  Che  place  unlil  the 
morning  of  the  28th.    The  events  of  (he  last  war  between 
\  the  United  Slates  and   Greai  Britain*  had  rendered  Buffalo 
an  object  of  interest  to  the  American  traveller.     I  also  felt 
anxioMs  to  see  lake  Eric*  which  in  addition  to  its  natural  po- 
sition, had  also  gained  a  rank  amongst  the  parts  of  our  coun- 
tr^^t  which  during  the  same  war  that  exposed  Buflalo  and 
^Vashingtikn  to   the  flames  of  an  incendiary,   also  gave  re- 
nown to  the  nation,  and  left  'land-marks  of  glory  which  will 
only  be  effaced  by  the  ruin  of  the  world  and  human  litera- 
ture. 

I  arose  early  in  the  morning  and  hasted  to  examine  the 
village  and  its  vicinity.  Like  most  other  new  towns*  Buffii- 
lo  is  composed  in  great  part  by  one  street  following  the 
course  of  (he  road  towards  the  eastward*  though  the  town 
itself  lies  very  nearly  in  a  north  and  south  direction.  A  few 
others  cross  the  main  street*  but  are  but  little  impfovcd. 
But  very  little  appearance  remains  of  the  destructive  rage 
of  war.  Most  of  the  houses  are  rebuilt*  but  as  in  Kingston^ 
some  vestiges  still  exist  to  attest  the  fury  of  invasion.  M»> 
ny  good  and  convenient*  and  some  elegant  dwellings  and 
store  houses  have  been  erected  since  the  termination  of  t5o 
last  war.  Three  or  four  excellent  inns,  and  many  decent 
favcrns  offer  th«ir  accommodations  to  the  traveller. 


.')■  :'>''(d 


k  '>>■ 


11 


[■ft 


•  !       . 


I   :  .■} 


m'- 


n<:,- 


il  .#1 


•156 


BUITFALO. 


[let.    XIII. 


!  T!.c  natural  situation  of  the  (own  of  Biiffaloy  though 
presenting  nothing  eitlicr  grand  or  striking,  is  nevertheless 
extremely  advantageous  as  a  commercial  depot,  'ilie  at- 
tendant  diagram  will  exhibit  its  ri^iative  situation  as  respects 
lake  Erie,  ButlUio  ci'eek«  and  the  adjoining  pui-ts  of  !New« 
"Voik  and  Canada  ;  hut  caniiot  convey  an  ade(jnat«j  vuncep- 
tion  of  tiie  minute  features  of  its  local.  Butfaio  creek  en- 
ters lake  Erie  meandering  over  an  alluvial  plain*  whose  sur^ 
face  is  not  eleva*  d  above  llie  ordinary  level  of  lake  Erie 
more  than  four  or  live  VvvU  'J'his  plain  extends  down  the 
lake  and!Niagara  river*  terminates  above  Blaik  Book,  and 
is  about  SOO  yards  wide.  Jtii^ing  above  this  phiin  fifleen  or 
twenty  feet,  extends  another  level  eomposed  of  sand,  rounded 
pebble,  and  a  subslralum  of  vegetable  earth.  Upon  th« 
latter  stands  t!:etuwn  of  iiiilTulo. 

The  creek  is  formed  by  the  union  of  Cayuga,  Seneca,  and 
Cazcno^i  branches  ;  which  risin;;  in  the  hills  lo  the 
south-east,  approadi  Buffalo  by  a  very  rapid  current, 
wiiieh,  howe\er,  subsid;?  before  the  united  waters  reach 
lake  Erie,  Seneca  and  Cayuga  creeks  rise  in  the  town- 
ship of  Sheldon,  in  Genesee  county,  interlock  with  the 
Tonne^vanta,  and  iiow  nearly  pmallel  to  each  oihir  to- 
Tvards  the  north-west,  enter  ^ia^i.ra  county,  and  contin- 
iiJag  the  same  direction  about  twenty  miles  in  comparative 
course,  turn  to  (he  west,  and  unite  five  miles  a  little 
voulh  of  east  from  the  town  of  Buffalo.  Cazenovia  creek 
rises  in  the  sonth-'^ast  angle  of  Niagara  county,  intcrlocjfTng 
with  the  head  waters  of  Cataraugus,  Hows  nearly  parallel  to 
Seneca,  falls  into  the  united  streams  of  Seneca  and  Cayuga 
three  miles  south-east  of  Buffalo,  and  from  thence  to  their 
junction  with  lake  Erie  take  a  common  name  with  the  town. 

The  harbor  formed  by  this  creek  is  excellent  and  perfectly 
safe  from  all  winds;  but  from  the  shallowness  of  the  bar  at 
its  mouth,  will  only  admit  small  vessels  of  four  or  five  feet 
draught.  A  light. house  is  now  stau«ling  upon  the  point  be- 
tween the  lake  and  creek,  and  is  certainly  a  great  convrn- 
h'nce  to  persons  navigating  the  lake.     'J'he  creek  is  navigable 


liET.    XIIl.j 


BUFFALO. 


157 


foi'  b'r.iis  10  (he  iii'st  (»pks  uhovc  its  moutli^  from  whence 
iJl)\viij  I's  it  is  inicr'i'lijiiod  bv  t'jills. 

Ijai'trt*  vcsriels     re  <)'jh,^'..(i  at  bo  anchored  out  in  the    lake 


n^ 


or  i'ail  (loun  below  Bird  island  in  (lio  mouth  of*  Niagara 
river.  Tbi*  fMinvnl  coniincner §  (o  be  apparent  opposite  the 
mouth  ol"  JJuIfubxreek,  bul  is  llicre  vprj-  gentle,  gradually 
and  ini[U'rt'ep(iblv  auguieniiHg  Hb  the  strait  cotUracih,  until 
opposite  Black  iioek.  wbere  the  wbole  vulnine  is  h'ss  than  a 
ntiie  wide;  the  velocity  of  the  stream  cannot  be  less  than 
five  or  six  miles  an  hour,  with  a  medium  depth  of  from 
twenty  to  tbiriy  feet. 

1  walked  down  the  beach  from  the  mouth  of  the  creek  to 
the  vi!la,!^e  of  Black  Koek.  The  greatest  part  of  the  dis- 
tance (two  mi!  sj  is  a  sandbank.  From  the  mouth  of  the 
creek  a!i<»ui  iiall'a  mile  the  sh^ore  it:  low,  but  then  rises  into 
a  ridge  of  at  least  ten  feet  perpeudicular  height  above  the 
water.  This  enormous  bank  of  sand  and  flat  pebbles  has 
bt'cn  produced  by  the  dashing  of  the  waves  for  unlimited 
ages,  and  is  no  doubt  daily  accumulating,  lis  elevatioa 
must  originate  with  the  winds  unaided  by  the  water,  as  no 
storms  that  could  now  occur,  would  ever  raise  the  surge  of 
the  lake  to  the  higher  part  of  the  bank. 

Bird  island  is  nothing  more  than  a  mere  ledge  of  rocks 
rising  above  the  surface  of  the  water,  but  admirably  situated 
to  shelter  vessels  from  almost  all  winds  that  could  much  af- 
fect them  in  this  place. 

'Ever  since  my  arrival  on  the  St.  Lawrence  waters,  I  have 
been  impressed  with  reiterated  facts,  which  combine  to  prove 
the  general  prevalence  of  a  current  of  air  which  moves  in 
the  sume  direction  with  the  waters.  So  incessant  is  the 
prevalence  of  this  wind  upon  the  St.  Lawrence,  below  the 
Thousand  islands,  that  the  entire  forests  have  a  visible  bent 
to  the  north-east.  The  same  effect  is  very  perceptible  near 
Sacket's  Harbor,  and  after  crossing  the  Genesee  river  trav  • 
ellir,^  westward,  becomes  more  and  more  apparent  as  lake 
JBrie  is  approached.    The  orchards  arc  particularly  iniluen- 

M2 


'I'  I 


'^1 


15$ 


BJtAC'K   RtfCK. 


[i.ET.   XIII 


I'Mi 


f.i.; 


« 


€cd  b^v  (Lis  current,  and  between  Batuviu  and  BuiTuluarc  so 
regularlv  and  so  unilbrnil}'  bent  eastwards,  as  to  uppeai*  al- 
most the  effect  of  design  in  those  who  liave  planted  the  trees. 
JVcar  the  beacli  of  lake  £rie»  this,  I  may  say,  almost  uu- 
rdianging  wind  has  forced  the  forest  trees  to  assume  a  stoop- 
ing posture, 

July  29th  I  visited  Blaek  Rock.  This  is  a  small  but  ap- 
parently a  thriving  village,  two  miles  north  of,  and  built 
upon  the  same  plain  with  Buffalo.  Here  the  banks  of  tho 
Niagara  river  or  strait,  present  a  very  exact  resemblance 
with  those  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  Bt  ockvillc  to  Bamil- 
ton.  Rising  by  gentle  acclivity  from  the  water  ;  both  sides 
of  the  river  being  cultivated  uffurd  a  fine  prospect,  though 
from  its  longer  selllement.  the  Canada  shore  is  much  more 
improved  than  that  of  New-York.  Unless  in  a  cataract,  I 
never  before  witnessed  so  large  a  mass  of  water  flowing  with 
such  prodigious  rapidity.  The  bottom  of  the  river  is  com- 
posed of  smooth  rock,  over  vhieh  the  water  glides.  If 
the  stream  ilowed  over  broken  masses  of  stone  it  would 
he  impassable. 

After  viewing  Black  Rock  I  took  advantage  of  a  boat  go- 
ing down,  and  hasted  towards  one  of  the  great  objects  of 
my  journey,  the  Falls  of  Niagara.  The  day  was  intolerably 
warm,  with  scarce  an  air  of  wind  to  move  a  leaf.  I  found 
the  river  much  more  winding  than  I  had  expected  from  the 
maps  I  had  seen.  Our  boat  foUoweil  the  west  channel,  leav- 
ing Grand  island  to  the  east.  Passing  this  island  I  was 
struck  vilh  its  remarkublc  resemblance  to  many  of  the  St. 
La>vrencc  islands,  having  a  similar  swell  rising  from  the 
water.  Some  new  openings  are  now  making,  but  the  great- 
est part  of  its  surface  is  yet  forest.  I  had  no  means  of  ex- 
amining the  timber,  but  at  a  distance  the  trees  had  a  similar 
mixture  with  the  opposite  shores,  hemlock,  sugar  maple, 
elm,  oak,  and  linden.^ 


!5incciny  return  to  Ncnv-YorI<;  the  following  nppcared  in  ihe 


lET.  sm.J 


TONNKWANTA    CREnK. 


i^ii- 


TonnewanU  and  EllicoU's  creek  enter  flic  cast  channel  of 
Niagara  strait  very  nearly  opposite  to  the  middle  of  Grand 
island.  Extensive  marshes  and  swanips  skirt  the  Tonnewan- 
ta  from  its  mouth,  for  more  than  twenty  niiles  upwards' 
This  creek  or  rather  river,  rises  in  the  town  of  Orange ville» 
in  the  south  side!  of  Genesee  county,  interlocking  witli  tho 
sources  of  Cataraugus  and  Buffalo  creeks,  and  with  somo 
streams  which  cuter  the  west  branch  of  Genesee  river. 
From  its  source  the  Tonnewanta  ci'osses  in  a  northern  direc- 
tion Orangevillf,  Attica,  and  Alexander  townships,  reaches 
Batavia  after  flowing  about  twenty-live  miles  ;  it  thenoe 
gradually  curves  iv  the  north-west,  west,  and  south-iAest  by 
mrest,  fulls  into  Niagara  river  forty  miles  from  Batavia,  hav- 
ing an  entire  course  of  sixty- five  miles.  This  stream  has 
now  become  an  object  of  interest,  from  the  circumstance  of 


public  prints,  exlracled  from  the  Niagara  Journal,  published  at 
Suffaio. 

FROM  THE  NIAGARA  JOURNAL. 

"  Population  of  Orand  Island. — A  very  considerable  selllement 
»i  squatters  has  been  made  unon  this  island,  principally  in  the 
course  of  the  last  season.  There  are  now,  we  are  informed,  more 
than  one  hundred  families,  collected  from  all  quarters  j  many 
from  Canada  and  the  middle  counties  of  this  state,  and  conside- 
rable improvements  are  making.  The  island  is  situated  in  the 
Niagara  river,  and  commences  about  three  miles  below  Black 
Ruck,  and  extends  to  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  falls.  It  is 
twelve  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  seven  miles  broad.  The 
whole  of  it,  before  the  recent  inroads,  was  clothed  with  heavy 
tiiiiber  of  an  excellent  quality.  The  soil  is  said  to  be  strong  and 
rich,  well  adapted  to  cultivation.  The  title  to  it  has  not  yet  been 
determined  by  the  commissioners,  but  it  is  generally  admitted  to 
be  within  the  territory  of  the  United  States.  Our  readers  will 
probably  recollect,  that  the  Indian  title  to  this  and  the  other 
islands  in  the  Niat^aia  was  ceded  to  the  state  of  New-York,  by 
treaty  made  at  Btiilalo,  on  the  12lh  of  September,  1815,  l>etween 
Gov.'  Tompkins  and  others,  commissioners  on  the  part  of  the 
slate,  and  the  chiefs,  &c.  of  the  Seneca  nation.  The  state  paid 
one  thousand  dollars  down,  and  secured  an  annuity  of  five  Ii«n-< 
dred  dollars  This  island  will  probably,  at  no  distant  period,  be^ 
a>me  very  populous,  and  highly  ctiltivatcd." 


»;-' 


'il 


n 

in 

i 

m. 

/J 

I'j'r.ij 


.V   5 


16U 


'JOA.NilWANTA    tUEKB:, 


[let.    XIII* 


)(s  be^Lcing  fur  some  (listancc  intendod  as  (lio  rotit<*  of  flie 
Gran^Canal ;  the  land  cuiiliguous  to  (he  luuer  )'<ti t  oC  its 
coui'bo  U'OfH  Balaviu,  is,  as  1  have  already  observid,  suhji'ct 
ill  many  placis,  lo  suiiinersiuti  by  \va(cr.  It  is  iiavigiible 
I'or  boats  upwards  of  twenty  inilt's  fi-om  its  mouth.  Be- 
tween tiie  mouth  of  the  Tonnewanta  and  ohl  Fort  Sehlosser, 
the  marshes  in  some  places  border  the  strait  ;  and  vhat  is 
reniarliable,  the  Chippewa  river  entcrins;;  the  Canada  side  a 
short  distance  above  the  falls,  exhiMls  in  some  measure, 
similar  phenomena  with  the  Tonnewanta.  Seen  from  the 
strait  below  the  lowe**  extremity  of  Grand  isle,  the  whole 
adjacent  count r  appears  almost  level,  no  elevation  being 
visible  that  matt.; ' 'lly  ;reaks  the  monotony  of  the  land- 
scape. The  strait  :»ere  ti'^s  nearly  abruptly  to  the  west, 
and  first  exposes  to  view  the  cluud  that  constantly  rises  from 
the  cataract.  JXolhing  is  seen,  however,  that  anticipates  in 
an*;  manner  the  sublime  and  awful  scene  below  ;  even  the 
rapid  current  that  sweeps  past  Black  Rock,  is  now  tranquil- 
lized :  the  iitrait  is  here  nearly  as  still  as  a  lake  on  the|U.  S. 
bhore,  and  flows  gently  on  that  of  Canada.  Navy  island  h 
a  small  extent  of  land  lying  in  the  Canada  channel,  at  the 
lower  extremity  of  Grand  island,  below  which  commences 
the  rapids  that  precede  the  cataract  of  Miagara.  I  passed 
between  Navy  and  Grand  islands,  and  landed  near  old  Fort 
Schlosser,  and  walked  down  the  shore  to  AThitney's,  opposite 
ihc falls  ;  it  svas  near  sun-set,  silence  began  to  reign  over 
the  face  of  nature.  Slowly  and  at  intervals  I  heard  the 
deep,  long,  and  awful  roar  of  the  cataract ;  my  mind  which 
for  years  had  dwelt  with  anticipation  upon  this  greatest  of 
the  world's  traits,  approached  the  scene  with  fearful  solici- 
tude. I  beheld  the  permanent  objects,  the  trees,  the  rocks ; 
and  I  beheld  also  the  passing  clouds,  that  momentarily  flitted 
over  the  most  interesting  picture  that  nature  ever  painted 
end  exposed  to  the  admiration  of  intelligent  beings,  with 
n.o;c  than  my  common  forbearance,  I  concluded  lo  behold 


LET. 


lin. 


[i  ny 


LET.    XIII.] 


NIAGARA    FALL9. 


161 


amid  the  beams  of  a  rising  sun  (ho  greaU'st  ohjoct  ever  ppc- 
siMited  (0  human  viiMv.     But  vhilst  the  stars  of  tliu  night 
;^loamed  through   the  inist^  atmosphere  of  (his  apparently 
fairy  land,  I  walked  forth  (o  the  margin  of  the  catar.iet,  and 
in  fancy  coneeived    the  beaiities^   the  horrors,  and  the  uon- 
ders  the  eoniing  morn  would  produee.     'J'hat  morn  opened.. 
(July  301  h)  it  was  elear  and  serene  ;  1  hasted  to  the  verge  of 
the  eatarae(  ;  I  expee(ed   mueh,  and  was  not  disappointed. 
The  point  of  land  above  A.  is  a  thiek  >vood   standing  upon  u 
sloping  bank.     Hie  noise  of  tjie  cataraet  is  heard,  but  its 
features  unseen,  until  the  observer  advances  to  the  verge  of 
the  i'<iil  ;  it   is  tl^en  seen  so  obliquely  as  to  destroy  i<s    best 
elK'Cl.     Defective,  however,  as  was  this  perspe(ttive  of  JVia- 
gura,  it  presented  beauties  infinitely  transcending  any  1  had 
evi'r  seen  bei'ore.     1  stood    upon  the   wiy  slope  over  nhieU 
the  torrent  rushed,  and  for  manv  minutes  forij-ot  ever    ot-  '^r 
object  except  the  untlescribable  scene  before  me;  b  t  wun 
the  fervor  of  imagination  had  in  some  measure  subsided,  1 
hciield  under  my  feet,  carved  on  the  smooth  rock  G.  ').  C. ; 
"W.  P.  and  J.  IJ.  and  many  other  initials  of  frieni's  (hat  had 
visited  this  incomparable  spot;    and  left  these  meiitoria,  that 
friends  only  could   understand.     On  beholding  these  recol- 
lections of  home,  ^ou  will  fuigivc  me  when  1  acknowledge 
having  dropt  upon  their  traces  tears,  that  were  rapidly  swal- 
lowed in  the  vortex  of  Niagara.  The  beauis  of  morning  came, 
and  glanced  upon  the  curling  volumes  that  rose  from  the 
abyiis  beneath;  my  eye  searched  the  bottom  of  this  awful 
gulf,  and    found  in  its  bosom  darkness,  gloom,  and  indescri- 
bable tumult.     My  rciiections  dwelt  upon  this  never  ending 
vonilict,  this  eternal  march  of  the  elements,   and  my  very 
soul  shrunk  back  upon  itself.     I'he  shelving  rock  on  which 
1  stood  trendding  under  my  ft'vtf  and  the   irresistible  flood 
before  me  seemed  to  present  the  pictured  image  of  evanes- 
cence.   The  rock  was  yielding  piecemeal  to  ruin,  fragment 
after  fragment  was  borne  into  the  terriiije  chasm  beneath  ^ 


ri 


vi 


I; 


\1 


I 


■A. 


...  t 


-» .  ij 


i^'-a 


MAGAIU   irALL». 


[^LET.   Xlll. 


nnd  (be  very  !^(ri'am  liiat  huriieil  (licse  broken  morsels  to 
destruction^  was  itself  a  monument  of  ebunging  powciv 

I  retraced  my  steps  to  Col.  Whitney's,  and  uHer  breakfast 
returned,  and  descending  the  almost  perpendicular  bank  of 
rocks,  found  myself  under  tbc  tremendous  FALL  OF 
>VATEU,  that  even  in  description  has  excited  (lie  admira- 
tion of  cuUivated  man  !  I  crossed  the  Niagara  strait  about 
'250  yards  below  ibe  chute.  The  rirer  was  in  some  measure 
ruiUed  by  the  conilict  it  had  sustained  above,  but  no  danger 
sipproaclied  the  passenger.  Perpendicular  walla  of  rock 
rose  on  both  sides,  to  th'c  appalling  elevation  of  between 
three  and  four  hundred  feet.  The  trees  which  crowned  the 
upper  verge  of  this  abyss  appeared  like  shrubs.  I  was 
drenched  to  the  skin  by  the  spray  of  the  cataract ;  but  the 
sublime  scene  towering  over  my  head,  was  too  impressive  to 
permit  much  reflection  upon  a  momentary  inconvenience. 
The  river  below  the  fall  ilows  with  considerable  rapidity, 
but  with  kss  velocity  or  turbulence  than  I  had  been  induced 
to  expect.  The  opposing  banks  are  perfectly  similar,  both 
being  perpendicular  about  half  the  descent ;  below  which 
enormous  walls  extend  slopes,  composed  of  tiie  broken  frag- 
ments that  have  been  torn  from  their  original  position  by 
the  torrents  from  above.  Most  maps  of  Niagara  are  very 
defective,  the  river  being  represented  too  straight.  Tho 
best  delinealion  of  this  phenomenon  which  I  have  seen  is 
contained  in  the  map  of  Niagara  river,  published  with  Gen. 
Wilkinson's  Memoirs.  In  that  draft,  the  river  above  the 
falls  is  represented,  as  it  is  in  fact,  flowing  almost  westward. 
Below  the  chute  the  stream  ilows  abruptly  to  the  north-east* 
^vhich  course  it  pursues  more  than  a  mile,  from  whence  it 
again  resumes  a  northern  direction,  which,  with  some  par« 
tial  bends,  it  continues  to  the  place  of  iis  final  exit  in  lake 
Ontario. 

Between  the  lower  extremity  of  Grand  isle  and  the  moutlf 
of  Chippewa  river,  the  Niagara  is  upwards  of  a  mile  wide, 
l)ut  contracts  a  little  as  tke  rapids  eoaimenee.    The  banks 


''mmmmsKL'}  V9f 


LET.    XlII.j 


MAtiAUA    TALL8. 


163 


u*;  hi;;h  as  Citippcwa  river,  are  not  vcrv  nitich  elevntcd  nbove 
llie  suiTact)  of  (he   slrait,  hut  apparently'  riue  in  di'secntling 
(o  tlie  pilch  or  eliiile.     TItis  change  of  rehilive  lieight  la  un- 
]y  a  deuep(tun  in  vision,  occasioned   by  (he  Mcar  of  (he  cata- 
ract. After  crossing  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  I  traversed 
(he  Canada  shore  fo  the  l)ank  nhove  the  grand  or  Canada 
chute.     On  tiic  diagram  enclosed,  I  have  inarked  (he  letlci^ 
^.  upon  the  spot,  from  wlierc  the  best  >iew  can  be  taken  of 
(he  falls,  rapids  and  islands.     'Many  {MM'sons   have  insisted 
that  the  best  view  of  the  falls  is  to  he  had  from  Goat  island. 
At  this  time  J  cannot  form  a  comparative  Judu,nient,  as  tho 
bridge  built  by  Judge  Porter,  from   the  New-York  shore  to 
Goat  iiiland,  was  broken   by  the  ice  of  last  winter.     1  urn 
doubtful  of  the  fact,   of  the   Ciills  hcing  seen  to  very  much 
advantage  from  this  island,  as  tho  perspective  must  be  very 
oblique.     'J'hc  rapids  are,  however,  but  little  less  worthy  of 
a  visit  than  the   falls  (liemselves,  and  can   no  doubt  be  seen 
with  much  greater  eftVct  from  Goat  island  than  from  jeithcr 
shore  of  the  strait.     The  rapids  indeed  on  the  Canada  chan- 
nel is  a  scene  of  sublimity  and  grandenr,     Tumbling  over 
ledges,  many  of  which  are  8  or  10  feet  perpendicular  de- 
scent ;  these   rapids  are   in  fact  a  chain   of  cataracts,  over 
which  the  immense  volume  rolls  its  terrific  mass  towards  the 
still  more  awful   scene  below.     The  New-Ycrk  channel  has 
also  its  appropriate  beauties  and  attractions  to  the  traveller; 
many  small  islands  covered   with  cedar  stand   between  the 
main  shore  and  Goat  island,  round  which  the  foaming  surgo 
dashes  with  endless  rage.     One  of  these  islets   hangs  upon 
(he  brow  of  the  fulls,  and  produces  a  small  middle  sheet  Cf 
ten  or  fifteen  yards  wide,  standing  in  mimic  majesty  between 
the  two  gigantic  torrents  on  each  side. 

No  adequate  idea  can  he  formed  from  description  of  this 
wonder  of  interior  North  America.  Its  pitch  in  feet,  its 
widtb,  velocity,  and  consequent  mass,  can  be  estimated  with 
considerable  accuracy  ;  but  the  cflect  upon  the  mind  can  only 
be  produced  from  actual  viow.    If  the  massy  walls  of  rpckj 


•,r 


ii 


)^i 


i^ 


^ 


R''       'I    ' 


>,  • 


'!  " 


■■■'A.. 


..'■^'  ■ 

■(,.   ■ 


161k 


NfA6AI(A   TAILS; 


[lET.    XIII. 


and  tlie  rapid:*  above  are  fxceptcd,  iIutc  is  nodiing  ncarNi- 
a^nni  (hut  is  striking  in  llic  Hccncrjk'.  ll  is  Icfl  alone  in  sim- 
ple and  Muhlinie  digiiil^v  lo  strike  (he  Noiii  \\illi  u  M'ns'.uion 
lliat  less  ol'life  ur  sense  alutie  ean  ul)lilet'ate»  (»u(  the  nuiniu 
ot'wLicli  no  Iangnu{;e  ean  eonvey.  If  lowering  niouniains 
and  eraggy  roeks  sui-iotinilid  Niagara*  I  eannot  luit  tjclieve 
(hat  much  of  its  line  elfiet  would  he  lo^t  ;  as  it  exists  it  i» 
an  ima};c  whose  whole  eontoni*  is  at  onie  sj;  n,  t»n<!  llie  re- 
coUcelion  unhKokiii  h^'  extraneous  ohjccls  j*   even  sound  is 

*  A  few  dn\s  afU^r  inv  ictuni  lo  llic  citv  ol"  New-York,  T  !;«d 
llie  pleasmo  to  read  Xiw  (ollowiiij,'  hius,  f Voin  ilic  4lh  eaniu  of 
CliiMe  llaruM,  hy  I-ord  B\  iom.  ll  is  a  dcserij.tidii  nf  (lie  ealn- 
raet  of  XChiio.  VNOrds  of  fircr !  used  to  p;tiiif  to  llie  soal  «n  ob- 
ject, no  doubt  worthy  ll>e  u«i{.'lity  ]m  iilus  of  the  ^leale.st  modern 
poet;  but  an  oIjj<  it  compared  to  wliich,  I^iia.aia  is  as  a  tower- 
ing; oak  besiile  a  rosp  sluub.  II"  Lord  ilyion  Jiad  {jiven  ifitt'lh.'c- 
tual  existtiicvi  lo  this  grand  elfort  of  a  master  mind,  under  the 
very  spray,  in  view  of  the  emerald  verge,  a«td  willi  his  son!  arous- 
ed to  heaven  hy  the  sounti  of  the  wuteis  of  Ningara,  his  iniaye 
w(»nld  not  more  vividly  pourtray  this  scene,  whose  traits  only  «i 
poet  can  describe. 

'•  The  roar  of  waters  ! — from  the  headlong  height 
Veli:io<'!e2«'es  t!»c  wave-worn  prcripieej 
The  (all  of  waters!  rapid  as  llie  h^lit, 
Tlie  (lashing  mass  foams  shaking  the  ahyps  ; 
The  hell  of  waters  I  where  i!<ey  howl  and  hiss,. 
And  boil  in  endless  torture;  uhile  the  sweat 
Of  their  great  a«>oiiy,  wrung  oui  from  this 
Their  Phie.L'ethoii,  curls  round  the  roeks  of  jet 
That  gird  the  gulf  around,  in  jiitiless  horror  set, 

And  mounts  in  spray  (he  skies,  and  thence  again 
11  turns  ill  an  unceasMig  shower,  which  round 
With  its  uuemptied  elotid  of  gentle  rain, 
Is  an  eternal  A|)ril  lo  the  ground, 
Makinj;  it  all  one  emrrald  : — how  juofound 
The  gulf  and  how  the  giant  element 
From  rock  lo  rock  leaps  with  delirious  hound 
Crushing  the  elifis,  which,  downward  worn  and  rent 
With  his  (ierce  footsteps,  yield  in  chasms  a  frarful  vent 

To  the  broad  column  which  rolls  on,  and  shows 
More  like  the  fountain  of  an  infant  sea 
Torn  from  llie  womb  of  mountains  by  the  throes 
Of  a  new  world,  than  only  thus  to  be 


LET.    XIII.] 


jriAO AHA  FALLS. 


1&3 


4iil)*ioi'virnt  (o  Die  inipri'Hsiun  mude  upon  t)i(>  heart,  none  is 
lieui'd  except  I  lie  e((*rn;il  roar  of  I  he  entaruet.  1  uoiiM 
have  hi'eii  njnicrd  ((•  ha>e  nan  this  place  in  a  (enip<8(. 
The  whole  lime  1  was  there,  the  weafhei',  though  wunn, 
>v:H  ollierwi^e  Mereue  and  pleasant.  Amid  the  howling;  of 
(he  Idack  norlii-west  wia<l  Xia^^tira  must  have  someihiiig  oC 
more  than  common  inlerrsf.  I  aiii  inclined  neveidu'lesH  to 
hi'lii've,  liiat  winter  alone  can  give  all  its  most  appropriate 
attendant  imagi>r.v  to  (he  fall^.  Hut  at  all  times,  at  all  sea- 
sons, and  I  tikight  »Ay  hv  all  ntiiidH,  will  this  matehless  pietiiru 
h'  viewrd  with  wonder  and  delight,  and  reiiiemhered  with 
f»'iliii;;'s  of  pleasure. 

M.iay  ^^'dly  remarkf*  are  however  made  respecting  the 
falls:  (hri:*  pliitii^in;;- into  an  ahjss  of  whttdi  no  one  knows 
the  dc'ptli  is  orse.  'llic  wal«'r«»  mostly  fall  upon  an  inclined 
pI'.iM^,  ronue<l  l)ii  i}i«'  hrolvtn  fragment j*  of  rocks  which  have 
hi''i  uiid  ai'*-  d;«ilv  f'.jlling  from  the  pi'ev'«r'»;;e  >'>ver  which  the 
WiitiMs  are  iMv<'i|)i(ci?i'd.  Canoes  and  other  vessels  heing 
•oat-rii't!  to  lise  verge  of  (he  fall  with  persons  in  iheni,  glidiiij; 


P.ir.^ut  «)(■  livois  wiiicli  flow  riisliincjlj', 
\\\>'i\  Diatiy  \vi!i(li'i;^s.  tluoioli  (ho  vale: — Lookback! 
I ,':  I   whore  it  comes  hke  an  elrjiiily, 
A    if  to  swcoj)  dowji  all  tilings  in  its  li-nck, 
Cii  iiining  Ihe  eye  \vith  divad, — a  matchless  cataract, 

Hor:ilt!y  be:mliful !  but  on  iiio  vorgo. 
From  side  to  si-U?,  bcnoalh  the  giittering  morn, 
An  Iris  sits,  nniiJst  the  iin"«  ritai  sujge 
Like  nOPK  upav  a  «lcath-l)4"l,  and,  unworn 
Its  steady  dvcs,  nlule  all  aroiiiid  is  lorn 
IJy  ibc  distracted  waters,  bcais  serene 
Its  brilliant  hue    wilh  all  llieir  hcnnis  unshorn 
Kcseinblinp,  'mid  the  torture  of  the  scene, 
l.ove  watchi!  j^  madness  \\illi  unalterable  niein." 

Only  uith  iiiis  c'rscription,  can  be  compared  tlinl  cA'  (be  Cba- 
rybdis  by  Homer :  it  cannot  be  deemed  jnesumption  to  say  it  has 
no  ollher  equal  in  human  lilerature.  Let  any  person  of  w a:  in 
fancy,  ivad  these  lines  in  view  of  Nincoia,  in  a  Hne  snnnner 
morninfr,  and  while  the  Iris  beajiis  upon  his  eye,  bo  will  exclaim, 
-'  tUk  indeed  is  the  lanjjiuige  of  enraptttred  poetry.*' 


I 


-.■^r 


U  :'• 


['• 

-l'.    . 

; 

It'- 

v... 

,!>■ 

^' 

1C6 


IflAGAHA  FALLS. 


[let.   XI if. 


rapuUy  but  smoothly  (o  dcstrncHont  is  another  roinnnee : 
any  vessel  uhatcver,  wouhl  be  dashed  to  splinters  by  the  ra- 
pids before  comiiiig  >vilhin  half  a  mile  of  (he  chnlc. 

Unless  it  may  be  from  Goat  island,  whieh  I  did  not  sec. 
the  best  situation  to  sec  the  falls,  is  from  the  Tabic  Roek,"^ 
or  to  my  mind  more  safe  r.ni]  more  pleasant  from  the  lull 
HUive.  Mr.  Whitney  is  now  .<?onstructing  a  stairway  from 
tl  J  New-York  side,  to  lead  down  to  the  margin  of  ihe  stream. 
This  work,  when  eomplclcd,  will  afford  a  more  safe  and 
commodious  passa^^u  than  the  wretched  ladder  down  which 
the  curious  traveller  has  been  hitherto  conveyed.  [ 


■■■f   '.  '■  '■ 

'    'B^i 

■) 

>' :  ' , 

•^?ffl! 

1- 

.1; 

'';i'f: 

'!'^'- 

'M  If 

Ik    in 

iii.J 


*  Before  my  return  from  Pelroit  to  PutTalo,  a  fragment  of 
rock  on  the  Canada  side,  supposed  to  be  the  Table  Rock,  broke 
and  fell.  It  was  not  however  the  Table  Rock  iliat  fell,  as  the  an- 
nexed extract  will  explain. 

"falls  of  MA6AR.\. 

"  Mr.  Salisbury — I  have  seen  it  observed  in  your  paper,  that 
the  celebrated  Table  Rock,  had  precipitated  itself  into  the  Niaga- 
ra river.  This  is  not  correct.  The  i)art  that  fell  did  not  extend 
to  within  50  yards  of  the  Table  Rock;  it  was  about  20  rods  in 
length,  and  from  I  to  4  in  breadth.  This  part,  the  day  previous 
to  its  falling,  was  passed  over  by  a  large  party  of  visitors.  Per- 
haps it  would  be  proper  to  state,  that  since  that  event,  (which  de- 
stroyed the  pathway)  Mr.  Forsyth  has  constructed  a  new  and  safe 
pathway  to  the  Table  Rock." — Buffalo  pap.  S. 

t  "  Goat  Island. — This  beautiful  Island,  which  divides  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  seems  to  have  been  rent  from  the  American 
side  by  some  violent  convulsion  of  nature;  the  strata  of  rocks, 
the  soil,  and  the  growth  of  the  timber  corresponding  with  thoso 
upon  the  main  land. 

"  The  difiicullies  of  approach  to  this  island  have,  in  all  pro- 
bability increased  with  time,  and  as  the  fall  has  receded  ;  for  wo 
are  informed,  that  it  was  once  a  place  of  frequent  resort  for  the 
French  garrisons  in  Niagara  and  Schlosser,  and  of  the  Britisii 
who  succeeded  them.  There  are  numerous  inscriptions  upon  the 
trunks  of  the  trees,  some  of  which  are  obliterated  ;  the  earliest 
now  legible  is  of  the  year  1769.  The  only  mode  of  access  in 
those  days,  was  to  drop  down  the  current  iVom  Schlosfser  upon 
the  point  of  the  island,  and  great  care  and  circumspecjiion  were 
necessary  by  avoiding  the  draft  of  the  current,  to  escape  being 
onrried  over  tlie  t»emendous  precipice.     But  in  later  times,  al- 


LET.   XIII.] 


Jfl-iGAHA  FALtr. 


167 


Visitors  increase  annually.  Mr.  Forsylli,  keeper  ©r  the 
puMic  inn  on  the  Canada  shore,  has  kept  a  register  of  the 
names  of  persons  \»h9  have  lodged  at  his  house  on  their 
visit  to  Niagara.  The  nuitiber  of  names  are  considerable, 
and  each  succeeding  jear  the  excess  becomes  greater.  In 
no  other  situation  in  the  United  States  can  buihlings  and  oth- 
CTaccommdations  for  the  use  of  travellers,  be  established 
with  more  certainty  of  remuneration.  The  cause  that  leads 
the  stranger  to  tliis  spot  is  not  the  acquisition  of  wealth,  nor 
is  it  iiie  debates  of  a  legislative  assembly  that  draws  him 
thither ;  but  the  attractions  t!iat  aiture  him  are  a  combination 
of  many  of  the  most  astonishing  feai^u'cs  of  nature,  the  rich 
painted  landscape,  wliose  outline  was  traced  bythellAND 
by   wliom  the  world   was   framed,  and  whose  strong  con- 


tlioiigli  the  curiosity  of  some  surmounted  the  dread  of  danger,, 
few  wcro  liardy  enough  to  advei)ti:rc. 

"Abridge  was  built  last  fall,  by  the  hon.  judge  Porter,  and 
saticuinc  hopes  were  entcrtaiuc«l  that  it  wouhl  have  withstood  the 
torrent;  hut  an  unusual  collection  of  ice  in  the  spring  occasioned 
it  to  be  carried  away.  The  perseverance  of  that  cnterprizing 
gontleman,  however,  was  noi  to  bo  discouraged,  and  a  new  bridge 
has  been  constructed  in  a  more  favorable  position,  which  bids 
fair  to  brave  the  dangers  which  proved  fatal  to  the  first. 

"  The  liighest  praise  is  due  to  Messrs.  Pierce  &  Whitney,  tlic 
contractors,  and  to  Mr.  Osboni.  the  builder,  for  the  judicious  lo- 
cation of  the  building,  and  it's  remarkable  constri:clion.  By 
means  of  liiis  structure,  which  few  wouhl  have  designed  or  exe- 
cuted, Goat  island  has  become  the  most  intereslinj»  spot  ihf\t  fan- 
•cy  can  depict ;  as  it  affords  the  best  and  most  varied  views  of 
Ihat  stupendous  cataract  which  "  enchants  ihc  world." 

"  The  view  from  Tabic  Rock,  on  the  British  side,  ba>  liitherto 
been  much  admired;  but  that  spectacle  is  infinitely  surpassed  by 
the  grandeur  of  the  views  from  several  points  of  the  icland,  which 
exhibit  the  majestic  fall,  and  the  surrounding  scenery  in  -'nrival- 
led  splemlor.  From  the  same  point  the  eye  rnduaces  the  rapids 
above,  dashing  with  impetuous  fnwiy  as  if  madly  hastening  to  pre- 
cipitate themselves  into  the  yawning  gulf ;  the  tremendous  volume 
of  water  sends  its  spray  to  the  heavens,  and  the  winding  of  the 
foaming  torre.'it  below  the  precipice ;  no  imagination  can  con- 
ceiv»»,  no  language  can  describe  tlMJA\ildt!ess  and  subiim'ty  of  the 
sr-ciie  " — A*iagnra  ratriof. 


iu 


M; 


m 


3  i 
* '  -1 


,f«r    3 


m 


i'< 


i*t-  •■:. : 


■-»■ 

■ 

1 

,,  1 

/ 

168 


liUEENSTOV. 


[let.    XIII 


tour  lias  and  will  endure  lliroiigli  the  changes  of  countki^s 
«en(uries. 

July  SOtht  1  left  Mr.  Forsytli's  and  (raced  the  shores  of 
the  strait  to  Queenston,  a  distance  seven  miles  along  a  road, 
over  a  roilini;  hut  not  hilly  eountry.  From  the  heiglils 
ahove  Queenston,  a  pnisj>eet  opend  only  second  to  (hat  of  (he 
falls,  though  of  a  character  totally  different.  The  >vide 
sweep  of  the  alluvial  plain  of  lake  Ontario  lies  heneath, 
chequered  \\ith  meadows  and  farms;  (he  deep  and  rapid 
8(rai(  issuing  in  its  dark  profound  from  (he  shelving  roeks 
ahove,  (he  two  (owns  of  Queenston  and  Lewis(on ;  and  far 
•on  the  back  ground  the  ocean-like  expanse  of  lake  On- 
tario, closes  the  perspective. 

I(  is  when  s(anding  upon  (he  hrow  of  these  heights,  that 
the  fact  heconies  demonstrative  that  here  once  daslied  Nia- 
gara, mingling  his  fu;iming  surge  widi  (he  wave  of  Ontario. 
The  rocky  bed  has  yielded  (o  (he  ever  rolling  waters,  and 
the  cataract  has  retired  to  the  deep  and  distant  dell  where  it 
now  repeats  (he  thunders  of  ages,  and  continues  its  slow 
but  certain  march  to  Erie.  Time  was  when  Niagara  did 
not  exist,  and  time  will  come  when  it  will  cease  to  be  !  But 
to  these  mighty  revolutions,  ihe  change  of  empire  is  as  the 
bursting  bulible  on  the  rippling  pool,  (o  (he  overwhelming 
volume  that  rolls  down  the  8(eep  of  Niagara  itself.  Since 
this  ca(.iraet  fell  where  Quecns(on  now  stands,  have  risen 
and  fallen  Assyria,  and  Persia  ;  Macedonia,  and  Momi  ;  (he 
flood  of  northern  hai-harians  issued  for(h  from  (heir  na(ive 
woods,  and  in  (he  storm  of  savage  fury  profaned  (he  (omhs 
of  (he  Fahii,  and  (he  Scipio*s,  and  in  the  march  of  (ime  (he 
IKillshed  sons  of  (hose  mail  ela<l  w-'rriors,  now  seek  w"th  re- 
lif^ious  venera(ion  (he  fragments  o.  the  s(a(ue3  that  heir 
fadiers  broke  ;  and  whils(  (his  moral  stream  was  llowing 
through  the  wide  expanse  of  ages,  lias  ihe  Niagara  continu- 
ed its  unceasing  eourfse.  Housed  from  the  sleep  of  a  thous- 
(tud  ficavs,  the  energies  of  (he  human  mind  sought  another 
world}  and  lound  America^   and  amid  this  new  crca(iuu 


nwwTMn  .M-;iM*  «ta  <  ■tP«.tM  Mi»-(»^uitt  *t 


LET.   XIII.j 


LATE    WAR. 


169 


found  Nia;5'.ira.  Dui-in";  (lie  cliange  of  n.itioiis,  reliy;!:);!  ami 
lan|;;uu^e,  litis  vast,  lliisieai'lul  c.alaracl  uucea!>iii<;i^v  piiisucil 
Hiiii  put'iiueii  Us  siuw  and  luilsoiiie  wav. 

Hut  in  soberriL'ss,  nu  iitan  ever  did  or  ever  can  (race 
tliiii  j^ruund.  Miliiout  the  iiitoxicalion  of  nithusiasm.  1  re- 
traced iii^  wa^'  back  (u  Buir.iio,  pa^sin;;  aluiii;  the  Cani.du 
shore  as  Car  as  the  Terry  below  Fori  Erie. 

Tiiere  ii^,  however,  no  scene  which  (he  traveller  visits,  that 
<io  little  an.fwers  his  expectatiunfi  as  ihalol'  a  field  of  battle. 
In  (he  splendid  accounts  of  line  positions  chosen,  deiVnded, 
or  lost,  the  iiiovenients  of  armies,  (he  shock  of  ballaiions, 
and  the  victor;^  acquired,  or  defeat  sustained  by  celebraJed 
generals,  we  are  apt  to  consider  the  ground  upon  which  these 
events  transpired,  as  oflering  something  of  deep  interest  on 
review  j  but  when  seen  this  illusion  vanishes,  and  the  eye 
iinds  nothing  beyond  the  common  objects  in  nature  to  render 
conspicuous  the  scene  of  the  greatest  battles. 

I'he  last  war  between  (he  United  States  and  rrrea(  Bri- 
tain, has  been  rendered  forever  reinai  kable  !>y  son:e  of  (hose 
events  which  continue  land-marks  in  historv.  The  vicfories 
of  our  infant  navy  gained  against  (he  leviathan  of  the  dee{-., 
(he  burning  of  Washington,  and  the  destructive  defeat  of  a 
ve(eran  army  of  10,000  men  at  New  Orleans  by  less  (ban 
half  their  number  of  inilida,  are  facts  imperisiiable  as  the 
iiterature  of  the  world.  But  in  no  part  of  the  vast  theatre 
of  (his  memorable  war,  were  (he  operations  of  (he  resj>ec- 
livc  armies  so  sanguinary  as  on  (he  Niagara  river.  Perhaps 
(o  (he  nun;ber  of  men  engaged,  no  baldes  autc  ever  more 
obstinately  contended,  or  victory  more  dearly  bought,  than 
were  those  of  (^^ueenslon,  October  8th,  181k,  in  which  ;^;en. 
Brock  was  killed  ;  that  of  Chippewa.  .July  5lh,  181i>,  and 
(hat  of  Bridgwater,  ,TuIy  ^.'ilh,  ISli.  The  latter  was  indeed 
one  of  those  desperate  conlliets,  where  the  ollieers  aud  sol- 
diers of  both  armies,  seemed  (o  have  lost  (he  feeling  of  f^e- 
ry  other  sentiment  except  that  of  victory,  (lens.  Br«\>n 
and  Scott  were  wounded,  and  (Jen   Heal.,  of  the  Briiish  arnty, 

N 


I II 


in 


a! 


i't   ' . 


11.'  i 


■4: 


i 

i70 


LATB    WA«. 


[LKT.    Mil. 


tikkcn  pi'isoner.  ^J'lie  ft^llovvln;;  fads  from  G<^n.  Biovn'^ 
nn;n»  of  I 'is  etif^»f^i'i:a-nJ,  arc  amonj;8t  ihe  most  ;  iiij^niH;* 
lit  IiiiM  an  liiatoiy  :  o;j  (he  Aincri(*nii  side  the 

*•  Iki'iiirri  ut'  kilK'd,  \M)un(l»  d  anil  uussinjjj.  ii  t!ic.  ahove 
^.'  juficu — killfd,  171 — wounded,  570 — missing,  117 — total, 
«  s:>s." 

"  'I'he  Brifihh  oflichjl  account  of  the  above  action,  makes 
**  tlioiv  lo^s  as  follows,  viz  : — killed,  .Si — wounded,  369-— 
•<  niisitin.'^',  lf).'> — piisoners,  i'Z — total.  878.'* 

Faifs  leHers,  page  224-. 

If  to  these  blood v  battles  are  s»ipcra«ided  the  not  less  ru- 
inous and  <l<  i^lindive  operalions  at  (bi't  Niii^ara,  fort  Erie, 
and  at  Buiililo,  evcr^'  spot  ol  i his  strait  have  now  become 
flussic  ground,  anfl  Ihe  ii-avellcr  for  aj:;cs  will  seek  the  he- 
ro's j;«'rave.  As  I  jiasscd  these  lie  Ids,  I  ccmld  not  but  con- 
trast the  Horni  that  once  ra,^;ed  upon  "their  surface  with  (he 
deep  and  solemn  calm  (hat  reij,»,ned  around  tue.  Fields  onco 
covered  wi«Ii  the  dead  and  d^in^  soldier,  now  smiled  in  j^ofd- 
en  hitrvesl. 

Upon  the  rising;  {."jrouml  near  Fors;^th's,  I  stopped  to  take 
;\  parliii;'^'  view  of  I\ia;;r»ra,  jiiazed  a  few  moments  upon  its 
ever  pleasin}]^  features,  iairi  ied  on,  passeil  t!ie  fwUh  of 
Chippewa,  and  about  noon  of  the  3ist  August,  found  njjself 
a^iiin  in  Hnilalo. 

The  I'ollowini^  arc  the  stages  '^!l  distances,  on  the  Cana- 
da bide,  IVoin  fort  Geort^e  to  IjimIuIo. 

Miles, 

Foit  George  to  Queenston,  ...  i 7 

iJianifoi'd  at  tiie  Falls,  -  -  -  7-— li. 

Chippewa,  „  -  .  -  -         3 — J7 

Palmer's,  .....  V—2G 

V»-irv  Ik'Iow  fort  Erie,  -  -  -  6 — 32 

lilaek  Uock,  -  ,  ^  -  1—3.^ 

EurfaN;,  -  .  .        '      -  -  2--3.'^ 

lietained  bv  eontrai'y  winds  in  Luft'alo  to  the   evening';  of 
(hv:>{\  of  Aip^ust.  ?  hi.;l  a  yood  ojsportunity  of  examining  the 


th^ 

wi 

rii 

G 

of 


XIII. 


IKT.    XIII.] 


BUFFALO. 


171 


ahove 
■total. 


iDiikes 

224. 
I(ss  ru- 
nt Ei'ie, 
l)»'(Mime 
the  he- 
mt  eon- 
ivitii  (he 
Ills  once 
in  g\M- 

I  to  take 
upon  it 8 

(l4itS3    of 

I  njjseli' 

le  Cana- 

JMiks. 

7 

7— li. 
3~j7 
{i--2l] 
6—32 
1— ij;i 

nninji;  of 
ningtlie 


rhiic.  it  doca  not  appear  to  mo  that  <hc  value  of  ihnt  situ- 
ation has  been  duly  appreciated  by  o»v  ^ovfinsnent.  Maay 
roasons  eoneui*  to  cni'oj'e  the  ne«'essi{y  of  rLiuitiii' ,,  the 
hai!)oi'  of  Uuil'ilo  eapiijle  oT  (•oinainiu,:^  vessels  oi'  any  Hivse. 
Siieh  an  undei'lakin.j;  is  l)y  no  means  visionaiy.  At  less  than 
a  mile  from  the  mouih  oC  (he  creok,  there  is  sniricit'Mt  watee 
to  adoiit  a  lirst  rate  siiip  of  the  line.  IT  a  s(roti,i>;  mole  was 
constructed  runnin;;  out  from  above  <he  !i;;h^ilonse  into  liie 
lake,  a  satV  shelter  for  vessels  would  be  fonurd.  In  a  na- 
val point  of  view,  sueli  a  wo:k  would  he  Invaluable  '*nd 
contribute  not  a  little  to  secure  to  the  lJnit«'d  Stales  (he  safe- 
ty and  superiority  of  their  llaj;  on  lake  Erie,  and  lo  prevent 
the  repetition  of  the  desolating  inroads  of  un  enemy  in  time 
of  war.* 

Adieu. 


*  Some  facts  rolalivc  to  tlic  operations  of  Commodore  Perry 
nnd  Iiis  fleet  in  last  war,  will  be  foiiiid  moiilioned  in  the  sequel  of 
this  work,  which  will  more  strooi^iy  point  out  the  iicccsiiity  of 
some  more  secure  naval  slaliou,  than  any  that  now  exists  on  the 
north-east  extremity  of  lake  Erie.  The  followiiis;  account  of 
the  efi'octs  of  the  wiuils  on  that  Inke  has  been  published  at  tiie 
moment  of  preparing  this  sheet  r«)r  the  press  ;  I  liiivc  given  it 
entire,  as  a  specimen  of  the  tremendous  rales  that  sw-.c!)  over 


those  inland  seas  i  gales  that  are  appalling. indeed,  where  no  ha- 
ven presents  its  shelter  to  the  wretclied  mariner. 

'•  Gale  on  lake  Erie. — In  addition  to  the  loss  of  the  IIercu!e.*> 
heretofore  slated,  we  gather  from  the  Cleveland  Register,  of  .Nov- 
21,  which  came  to  hand  this  morning,  the  following  particulars  of 
fatal  disasters  : 

"  The  schooner  Independence,  of  Sandusky,  John  IJrooks  mas- 
tor  and  owner,  John  ('hambefs  seaman,  cleared  from  ihe  mouth 
of  Black  river,  on  Saturday  the  Ulh  inst.  for  Detroit,  io.uled  with 
corn,  for  John  S.  Reid,  es(|.  who  sent  his  son  Cornelius  Reid  to 
assist  capt.  Crooks,  and  dispose  of  t!ie  corn.  Tlie  vessel  was  cup- 
sized  in  a  gale — the  cargo  lost,  and  every  soul  en  board  drowned — 
the  wreck  drifted  on  shore  near  the  mouth  of  Black  river.  A 
wreck  of  a  vessel,  bottom  upwards,  seen  olf  the  mouth  of  Grand 
rivei.  Schooner  Pauline,  was  driven  on  shore  near  the  mouth  of 
(irand  river  and  bilged — her  crew  saved,  but  her  cargo,  consisting 
of  salt,  lost.  Schooner  Boxer,  lying  in  the  mouth  ol  Urand  river, 
disniasted,  bilged,  and  a  complete  wreck — crew  saved      Scliooner 


1 


6.^ 


:1 


m 


i 


ft  ■  '"'V  ' 


172 


OKTU'JIT. 


[let.    XIT. 


LETTER  XIV. 


■  '1 
ft 


Delroitf  Jiugutl  15,  1818. 
Dear  Sir, 

On  the  evening  of  (lie  2(1  inst.  I  left  Buifalo  fur  (his  eily, 
in  (lie  schooner  Zephyr,  uap(.  >ViIeox,  and  had  a  ledious  pas- 
sage of  eleven  da^s,  but  a(  length  found  myself  agreeably 
rid  of  (he  vessel,  and  on  shore  (o-day.  Sinee  i(  is  over,  1  do 
not  regret  having  encounlered  contrary  \»i|ids  in  in,y  passage, 
a3  (he  circumstance  «L./]abled  nie  (o  visit  most  of  Ihc  towns 
along  the  south  border  of  lake  Erie. 

A  gale  coinnienced  to  blow  with  great  violence  fi'oni  (he 

IV.  W.  soon  after  we  left  Buffalo  creek,  and  continued  to  rage 
all  night.  The  darkness  of  the  night,  and  (he  narrowness 
of  (he  mouth  of  (he  harbor  we  left,  prevented  our  return  ; 
(he  course  of  the  wind  kept  us  from  sheltering  under  point 
Abino,  on  the  Canada  shore,  and  of  course  left  us  io  the 
meroy  of  the  storm  and  waves.  1  have  the  misfortune  to 
be  very  subject  to  sea  ^u'krjess,  and  never  did  I  pass  so  dread- 
ful a  night,  'i'he  short  chopping  waves  of  lake  Erie  give 
a  vessel,  during  the  prevalence  of  a  gale,  an  unspeakable 
disagreeable  motion  ;  the  nature  of  its  sl.or -s  rendei-s  it 
amongst  the  most  dangerous  parts  of  the  earth   <o  navigate. 

Wasp  ..'smns'.eti,  and  driven  on  sliorc  at  the  mouth  of  Cunning- 
Iiaiirs  Mc<-!,,  i.iis'i^d — hir  crew  saved,  but  caigo  lost.  Schcioncr 
jicncial  Jirown  v.iis  driven  on  shove  mar  ilie  mouth  oi'  Black 
liver,  r-n  W(  iinest';!)'  tlic  I8lh  inst. — her  cie."  all  safe,  but  the 
ves.st'l  coiMiicrably  dnniagcd.  Schooner  general  Jackson  hft 
Orcen  l.fiy  lor  Mackinaw,  some  lime  since,  and  has  not  jiiu  e  been 
\\Ci\v\  (;(■ — fciusaie  cnl«?ilai)ied  for  her  saicty.     Dritihh  brig   lord 

V.  cllington,  of  C.injidn,  nnjis  drivjii  on  shore  at  point  Abino, 
ai.J  \^er,l  to  pieces — crew  iavcil,  but  caigo  lost.' 


wh 
slit 


dis 


S:  .^ 


LET.   XIV,] 


UUMvIKK. 


jrs 


A  iine  steam  boat  is  now  building  at  Blaik  Rock,  and  will 
be  an  invaluable  acquisition  when  put  in  niolion."^ 

Wc  made  Dunkirk  harbor  in  the  evening  of  the  4th,  where 
we  remained  wind  bound  until  noon  of  (lie  7 ill.  It  is  a  cu- 
rious fact,  that  in  a  distance  of  lb  miles  from  Buffalo  to 
Dunkirk,  then  is  no  place  where  the  smallest  vessel  can 
find  shelter,  except  the  mouth  of  Cataraugus  creek,  whicli 
alibrds  but  little  water,  consecjuentl^  useless  for  vesselit 
drawing  more  than  four  or  five  feet.  Dunkirk  is  in  Cliatau- 
que  county,  township  of  Fomfret.  The  alluvial  hank  of 
lake  Erie  is  at  this  place  about  four  miles  wide,  from  the  in- 
ner border  of  which,  rise  (he  hills  uhieh  divide  the  waters 
ilou'ing  into  the  Ohio  valley,  faom  those  which  fall  into  lake 
Erie.  This  ridge  becomes  visible  from  the  lake  immediately 
after  leaving  Builalo,  though  from  that  place  they  are  dis- 
tant between  twenty  and  thirty  miles  in  a  direct  course. 
Following  nearly  an  east  and  west  direction  through  fjcnesee, 
Cataraugus,  and  Chatauque  counties,  the  dividing  ridge  ap- 
proaches lake  Erie  obliquely,  and  at  Portland  eighteen  miles 


^  li 


:    (1 


^'i 


*  Tills  boat  is  called  JValkin  the  Wafer,  an  aukwnrd  term  giv- 
en ill  compliment  to  an  Indian  chief  lately  deaii  ;  slie  left  liufl'alo 
on  her  first  trip  about  the  17th  or  i8th  iiist.  The  following  ex- 
tract from  the  BiifFalo  (j.Tzclte,  shews  th«,"  result.  The  circiiin- 
stance  I  have  mentioned  of  the  prevalence  of  S.  W.  winds,  ren- 
ders steam  r...iftation  invahiabie  on  tiie  St,  Lawrence,  ilioiigli 
fVulk  in  the  ff'ater  is  too  large,  to  answer  all  the  purposes  to 
which,  from  the  shallowness  of  most  of  the  harbors  in  lake  Erie, 
she  miglu  he  applied,  if  her  draught  was  less. 

"  The  steam-boat  fFalk  in  the  Jf'nter  has  returned  lo  Buffalo 
from  her  fust  trip,  and  is  foimd  on  trial,  to  equal  the  best  expec- 
tations of  her  builders  and  proprietors.  She  reached  Detroit,  a 
distance  of  more  than  "^OW  miles,  in  48  hours,  and  afterwards 
proceeded  to  lake  St.  Clair,  and  brought  down  a  nundjer  of  troops. 
May  she  prove  as  profitable  to  the  enterprising  proprietors,  as 
she  is  likely  to  prove  beuetieial  to  the  public  at  large. 

'•  Thus  there  is  now  established,  on  the  St.  Lawrence  and  its 
waters,  St  <"ain-lM»at  accommodations  for  about  800  miles;  and  the 
distance  of  these  facilities  to  travel,  will  probably  be  doubled  in 
a  very  few  years,  by  the  introduction  of  these  beats  upon  lakes 
Huron,  Michigan,  Superior^  &c."  ' 

N  2 


>«' 


i74r 


nUNKIKK. 


[l.l.T.    XIV 


«ou(h-wcsl  fVom  DiinKiik,  rcsvclu'S  Milliln  loss  than  (hire 
mil's  of  llic  iiijirj^in  ol'  J  he  lake.  'J'lie  hills  seen  IVom  (lie 
)uke  »i>(K'ai'  (0  rise  inueii  inoir  uhiiipt  (fiuu  (hrv  du  in  (skM. 
M  heir  sloju'  tov;i5 (Is  (he  hike,  jHesenfs  un  iiuiucnsc  Tcrcsl 
chequered  \n!li  ( ^»I:lpa!•:llive!^  few  rsirms. 

Diinkiili  U  i\  n!'\v  \jil;ij;e  on  ilie  shove  of  lake  Erie.  A 
xcmieirciihir  }):\v  lies  in  i'roi;<  of  the  viliji;j;e,  foi  rned  hy  (wo 
cnpetj,  disiaiK  I'lorn  ciU'li  olher  ubont  n  mile  and  a  half)  vifli 
u  Imr  extenilin;;-  (Vom  ia|)e  (oesijx'.  over  which  tliere  is  seven 
feet  water.  A Csseis  eiijrahie  ol'  passinj:;  (he  har,  iind  t;o(jd 
fliieher  fi oin  east  Hoiith-eai^t,  hoiith,  or  sufilh<west  winds,  and 
«he  har  bi'eakin|L^  (he  waves,  the  harhur  attoids  a  refuge  also 
froMi(he  winds  hhnnni^  IVouj  llic  lake.  The  hoitoiuof  the 
l)nv  i.Hords  j^ond  aiuhoraii;e  within  (wo  hundred  vards  of  the 
sliore.  Dunkirk  is  invalr.ahh'  as  oireiin;^  the  only  port  be- 
tween linfiUlo  ;ir,d  I'.rie.  A  nnmher  of  t;ent!enien  in  Albany 
ftre  t)ie  j;rin'.i;)jl  |mo;>!  ietors  of  this  villajjje  and  its  vicinity  ; 
Ihev  lia\e  e.\[»endv'd  eonstjierablo  sums  in  the  ereetion  of  a 
vharf,  a  road  to  I'redoiiia,  and  other  Imiirovcnunts.  The 
site  is  a  de;.d  level,  which  extends  back  towards  (he  hills 
two  or  three  rniles,  before  any  eonsiderabie  eminences  difi- 
Inih  ti'e  niinx/toiiv  of  iis  HiirlUce.  'i'lie  soil  Is  (;om])osed  of 
sutxl  siad  a  lich  loai.i,  fi)rnun;;  an  allnvion  <»f  .'jcreat  feriilitv. 
Titiibj  5\  iunilock,  v.irioiis  sixcies  of  oak,  elm,  linden,  \u)\}- 
lar,  (!iro<lr!;;!inn  lJili[?iiVr;')  su;;ar  maple,  and  heeeh.  'i'hc 
trees  of  all  kind.s    are  leinarkuMe  for  llulr  extraordinary 


5jze 


hedav  ai*(<'r  ntv  ;:iiival  at  T)t:nkirk  I  walked  on(  to  Fre- 


doiila,  f<)!ia«'rl»  Caiaidawax.  ftjur  miles.     Canadaw 


ay   ( 


reek 


rises  in  the  dividinf;'  iidi;e,  in'ei  lockint;'  v.  ith  the  sourees  of 
the  ('onnew«n:;o  I  ram  h  of  the  Allej^tmy  river,  and  ilowinj; 
Dtirtls-vevt  towards  lake  Ili-ie,  Inniblin;:^;  fiop.i  preeipiee  to 
]>r<'eipi»e  onlii  i<  rejuhes  I'ne  alluvial  li:irdei*  of  lake  Krie, 
vMch  it  inins  two  miles  aiiove  Dnnl.irk  bav,     I'^rrdonia  is 

•I  ft 

bu'b  upon  <a<h  !;av.k  of  ibis  <rrek.  is  a  new  and  iionii'-Mnf; 
m!1;v  ".     'J  5  e  road  iVom  l^iilVitlo  (o  ijie  passes  throuf^h  and 


UQT.    XIV.] 


ULNKinK. 


i'b 


divi(li>s  a(  KsrdiMiia*  into  what  is  calied  llnHowiT  flr   1  iko 
road,  ittid  lUc   iipjUT  or   (>'liafjni(]ii«  roiid.     'I'iiosi^  ro  iMn  do 
not   aji^aiii   uiiiir   until    within    (lir  iirrcini'ls  of  (ii<>   (own  of 
Erit*.     'I'lu'  st'iilciMcnls  I'ullow  ^('acrall^   thcso   ruads,  pav- 
ticiiiariv  tli.*  iofiuei-  or  lake  route. 

I  s!»ouI<l  liiivo  Ihi!;mi  uhicU  r 'joiji'd  to  liavc  Ix'on  aUIo  to  dc- 
Icrniiiii^  ilir  rh'vatiori  oJ'  llu*  dividiot;  ridfjji^  almvc  tm^  stirlaoo 
of  iakr  Erii*,  hut  couM  not  liave  that  Hatixfarlion,  IVotn  want 
of  inslriiiiKMits  antl  iinir.  liid(>|M'iid«.'til  of  their  a]);)ar''!it 
liriji^hl,  two  cirruiiistaiict's  coiiihinr  (o  {srovc  that  thr;y  caaiiot 
fall  much  short  of  I2ii0  (Vet.  First,  tlic  di'itaiiru  to  wiiirh 
Iho}'  are  visihif  is  at  Irast  fort^  usiU's.  Any  oljjret  eapahh' 
ot*  hring  sreii  v.\um  thr  curve  of  thtf  earth's  siirlace  lort^y 
inilerf,  must  he  within  a  (rille  ol*  1100  feet  hij^h.  The  second 
daiiini  to  deiuonsiraie  the  consider.ihle  elevation  of  these 
hilis,  is,  that  Tro.-ii  (iiem  Huw  water,  wljieh  enters*  the  ;^iiiror 
Mexico  Ujiwardsof  tw/lvjdt';5!'oesorialm!de  distant  (Voni  its 
source.  Tiie  surTace  of  lake  LCric  is  known  to  he  .'i(;i,r>  (ect 
.'ibove  the  ocean  tides,  and  allow iiu.;;  the  dividinjj;'  rid^e  an  el- 
evation of  IIOU  feet,  w'o.ili!  produce  KJOl..^  feel  as  the  entire 
lieif^iit  of  this  rid;^e  above  the  Atlantic  ocean.  Slojjin.j*  very 
{gradually  towards  the  south,  a  rapid  depression  of,  as  wo 
Jiavc  seen,  1100  (ect  takes  place  on  fi.e  side  of  lake  Krie. 
Tlie  extreme  head  waters  of  Chataiique  lake,  rises  in  Iho 
township  of  l*o:-tland,  within  less  than  three  miles  of  h:!;M 
!Erie,  and  is  the  point  of  neatest  apjicoach  of  the  iWississippi 
■waters,  to  the  o».»rij;in  of  any  of  the  Caiiii'Iian  lakes. 

Canals  have  been  projected  to  unite  (!ie  Ohio  and  SI.  Law- 
rence waters,  many  points  have  been  mentioned,  and  amon;^st 
others  by  Chatauqin'  lake.  You  will  perceive  the  obstacles 
that  nature  has  opjiosed  to  (he  completion  of  such  a  project, 
by  the  enot  mous  dillerence  of  level,  and  (he  very  sudden  de- 
pression. It  is  a  subject  to  mo  of  some  surprize,  that  the 
Erie  chain  of  hills  is,  even  by  many  persons  of  good  inl'or^ 
mation,  considered  as  risinj;  but  very  little  above  the  surface 
of  lake  Erie  ;  but  no  sooner  is  the  real  elevation  of  Erie 


m 


fcl     , 


l.to 


ul.f 


■  i'. . ' 
'  \ 


!'1    ■. 


fJ: 


*70  BUARIRK.  [let.   XIV. 

known,  (lian  flic  conviction  muni  be  irrosistiblo,  that  a  very  se- 
rious rise  ntusi  be  necessary  from  that  lake,  to  aclniii  a  ciirrent 
of  such  proiliglous  length  us  that  of  the  Allegany,  Ohio,  and 
Mi:$.sis8i|)|»i  rivers.  If  indeed  lake  Kiie  was  nearly  as  much 
elevated  as  the  soniec  of  Alh'gany  river,  then  would  the  fall 
of  water  in  the  Niagara  strait  and  St.  Lawrence  river,  be  as 
great  in  hs»  than  300  niilia,  as  that  of  the  Mississippi  and 
JS  tributaries  in  six  times  that  distance  ;  the  certain  eonse- 
(jiicnce  would  be  thai  either  the  fall  of  N'iagaia  would  be 
8t>0  or  900  feet,  or  that  the  8t.  Lawrence,  from  its  great 
rapidity,  woulil  be  unnavigHbie. 

MSiiU  g(Mjd  roads,  and  a  (biiving  interior,  Dunkirk  must 
a«lvan<e  in  a  ratio  with  the  ntMghlx.iing  country,  being  the 
oul^  port,  no  rival  ran  be  raised  to  check  its  progress  nearer 
than  forl.vlive  miles.  Should  the  current  of  commeice  turn 
towar(!s  the  city  of  Mew-York,  then  would  Dunkirk  become 
the  shipping  port  to  a  semicircle  of  at  least  thirty  o»iles  radi- 
us. At  present  the  village  consists  of  about  tiO  houses 
newly  built.  M  he  propiietors  are  en»i,Ioyed  in  fornting  a 
road,  to  Join  both  above  and  below  the  tillage  with  that  of 
the  lake  marp^in. 

Aug.  t)th,  in  the  evening  I  left  Dunkirk,  and,  as  in  leaving 
BuHalo.  encountered  another  gale,  but  as  it  came  from  the 
north-east,  it  carried  us  rapidly  forward.  'Jhc  gale  set  in 
about  three  hours  before  day,  and  bore  our  vessel  about  .SO 
miles  from  Dunkirk  by  morning  ;  as  the  sun  arose  the  wind 
ahaied,  and  at  8  o'clock  P.  M.  we  {vassed  the  town  of  Erie, 
into  the  harbor  of  which  we  did  not  enter.  Much  of  the 
shore  between  Dunkirk  and  Erie,  is  composed  of  shelvts  of 
recks,  tvenly  or  .SO  feet  high,  and  extremely  Jangerous  to 
vessels,  as  no  place  of  refirge  exists  even  for  boats.  The  di- 
viding ridge  is  visible  from  the  lake,  following  a  similar  di- 
rection wiih  its  shores.  Above  the  t(  wn  of  Erie  the  alluvial 
border  becomes  wider,  and  the  slope  of  the  dividing  ridg« 
less  abrupt,  and  gradually  retiring  into  the  state  of  Ohio, 
about  twenty  miles  aboY&  Erie  it  ceases  to  be  in  view  from 


LET.    XIV.] 


ttKANO    UIVEK. 


177 


the  luLc.  ScUlemonts  hecoinc  more  rair  ;  (lie  hordci*  of 
the  luk»*  pi'csvnd*  one  vast  f<»reHt.  TlilHy  miles  from  (iio 
town  oi'  Kric  and  nuur  tiic  moiKli  of  Conncoiiglit  er<>(>k,  i^ 
the  liivision  lint'  hi'iwcrn  tlic  s(a(t*s  of  IVtinsjIvania  ami  Oliio. 
\\f  paHHcd  I  ills  jilarc,  and  also  I  lie  iiioiilii  of  Aslitubula  rivei* 
ii)  (he  ni;i;lti,  and  at  noon  of  llie  Hlh,  vm  nho  passed  iho 
mondi  of  (irand  river.  Al  1  oVIot-i;  I*.  M.  \\c  were  be- 
calmed \\liieli  eontinued  (wo  or  three  Ihmms.  and  ^^as  follow- 
ed by  a  Htroof;  head  wind,  which  forced  us  h:iek  into  the 
inoulh  of  Grand  river.  The  dividing  ridge  is  visible  from 
the  lake  opposite  this  place. 

Grand  river  is  a  slreani  of  some  consccpipnce  ri>in|^  in 
Portafje  counlv.  Hows  over  the  north-west  anj;le  of  '1  rum- 
hull  counlv.  assumes  a  north  course»  enters  Ashtabula  count  v« 
throu,i;'h  which  it  winds  five  and  twentj^'  miles,  turns  suddenly 
westward,  enters  Geauga  county,  through  which  it  iU)\\H 
ti[»wards  of  twenty  miles,  falls  into  lake  Kriu  in  the  latter 
county,  after  an  entire  couise  of  n;ore  than  seventy  itiilcs. 
It  is  about  seventy  yards  wide  at  the  mouth,  with  se^en  ftct 
water  on  the  bar  near  th«  entrance  into  the  lake.  'J  he  cast 
hank  rises  to  the  height  of  .30  or  10  feet,  un'ording  a  very 
handsoaie  site  tor  a  village.  '1  he  haiboris  excellent  for 
sueh  vessels  whoso  whole  draft  of  water  will  admit  entrance. 
A  village  called  Fairpoit,  has  been  laid  out  on  Ihu  point 
l)clow  «r  east  of  the  mouth  of  the  river.  tSome  houses  are 
built,  two  taverns  and  three  stoics  have  been  cstViblibbed, 
with  a  warehouse  at  the  hank  of  the  ri\er.  I'reparaiitns 
are  making  to  form  whar\es,  extending  bcu)i;d  the  bar  in 
such  manner  as  to  aObrd  u  harbor  to  Nes^i-ls  of  any  draft. 
If  such  a  wui'k  is  completed  Fairpori  will  he  auiong.it  the 
most  nourishing^  villages  on  the  south  shore  of  Jake  l^rle. 

The  soil  is  here  on  thu  liigh  ha'tks  comiKiscd  of  sand,  peb- 
ble, and  vegetable  earth,  and  no  doubt  vciy  productive,  though 
of  that  1  had  no  other  nicans  of  fdrming  a  judgment  than 
by  the  natural  growth,  as  no  cleared  lanils  arc  ^ct  (o  be  seen 
near  the  village. 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER, NY.  MS80 

(716)  872-4503 


A,^^ 


1.  y        ■ 


173 


-CLEVELAND. 


{LE' 


XIV. 


ui' .,.: 


siyi' 


m'-' 


,'■■■  ■:  •'' 


Three  miles  from  Faii'port,  upon  (lie  left  bunk  of  Gran^l 
river,  stands  (lie  very  ilourisliin,^  village  ol"  Painesville,  the 
licliest  and  most  conjrnercial  in  (he  county,  containing  a  num- 
bei'  of  stores,  (averiis,  milip,  and  oliin  machinery  ;  a  post- 
office,  and  a  fine  vooden  hridi;'e  over  Grand  river,  'ii'he  soil 
of  this  nei;>aliO!hood  is  a  rich  vegetable  mould,  resting  upon 
rounded  jjchbie  or  clay.  'I'he  land  in  fact  of  all  the  Cou- 
ucclieut  reserve  is  ferJile,  with  but  pai'tial  exceptions.  The 
tiirdicr,  hickory,  sugar  inaplc^  black  walnut,  elm,  oak,  and 
other  trees  indicative  of  deep,  strong  soil.  Though  but  lit- 
tle cutiivation  appears  along  the  lake  shore,  the  interior  is 
I'apidly  advancing  in  settlement.  Fairport  has  all  the  ap- 
j>earance  of  a  comr/c'rcial  place  ;  in  infancy  it  must  be  con- 
fessed, but  yet  uidi  tueh  marks  as  >vill  justify  the  anticipa- 
tion of  vigorous  maturity. 

Aug.  Dill,  1  left  Faii'port  early  in  (he  morning,  >Ylthalight 
breeze  from  the  N.  E.  and  at  2  o'clock  P.  M.  reached 
Cleveland,  at  the  month  of  Cayahoga  river. 

Cleveland,  like  Fairport,  occupies  the  eastern  point  be- 
tween the  lake  and  river,  an  \  is,  after  Builalo  and  Erie,  the 
largest  town  upon  the  shores  of  lake  Erie.  Similar  to  all 
rivers  (hat  ilow  into  any  of  the  Canadian  lakes,  a  bar  cros- 
ses its  mouth  with  a  depth  of  7  feet.  Cayahoga  river  rises 
in  Geauga  and  Poitage  by  a  number  of  creeks,  »hich  unite 
at  the  north-west  angle  of  the  latter  county,  llien  enters  that 
o''  Cayalioga,  and  fall;^  into  lake  Erie  at  Cleveland.  A  road 
>  -tding  up  a  svvy  high  and  sfeep  bank  leads  from  the  barber 
(  J  the  h -vn,  whicli  stands  upon  the  table  land.  The  situa- 
tion of  Cleveland  is  the  most  pleasing  of  any  town  I  have 
yet  seen  on  lake  Erie.  ^I'lie  general  siop?  of  the  ground  plan 
of  (he  town  inclines  towards  tlie  lake,  iho!i:.h  < levated  per- 
liaps  60  feet  above  its  surface,  Cleveland  stands  higher 
than  Fairport,  but  l;oth  arc  subject  to  the  seridus  objection 
of  having  bajiks  abru|;t  and  difiicult  to  ascend  from  the 
margin  of  the  \vater  in  the  harbor.  'I'hat  of  Cleveland  pro 
duces,  from  its  inclination  towards  the  lake,  a  \Qvy  pleasani 


LUT.    XIV.] 


CLEVBLAXn. 


±79 


and  oxlcnsive  prospect,  wliieli  adds  no  !i((Ic  <o  <!:c  iAvy  and 
Jiealtliy  appearance  of  the  town  and  its  vicinilv.  Tlie  soil 
of  til!;  neighborhood  is  extremely  ferdle,  composed  as  every 
where  else  oirlake  Erie,  of  sand,  cImv,  and  rocinded  pebble, 
in  dilferert  degrees  of  mixture.  For  the  fjrsi  lime  in  the 
St.  Lawrence  valley,  I  saw  tlse  perich  tree  v>ith  a  vigorous, 
hcallhy  look,  in  the  gardens  and  orchards  near  Cleveland  ; 
and  here  also  appears  more  eliccts  of  culture,  than  ia  any 
part  of  the  hike  shore  from  r>.:.7alo. 

Cleveland  is  the  seat  of  juslicc  for  Cayahoga  county,  vvitii 
a  eourt-houfjc,  bar.I:,  prir.liiii.;  cincc,  a  number  of  stores  and 
taverns,  and  a  post-c.PJcc.  It  is  a  posi(ion  of  considerable 
consequence,  lying  in  ;t  direct  line  of  communication  between 
Pittsburg  and  Dclrcii,  131  miles  fi'oni  the  fornser  ci(y.  Du- 
ring last  war.  the  nicuJh  o"  Cavahoga  was  found  to  be  a 
point  of  great  convc.iijni'e  for  tiic  transportadon  of  stores, 
provisions,  and  buihiing  of  small  vessels  for  the  use  of  the 
iirniy  and  navy.  V»  by  large  vessels  could  not  be  as  well  eoii- 
fctructed  here  as  ut  Erie,  I  am  unable  to.  compichcnd  ;  the 
water  upon  the  respeciive  bars  is  equal,  whilst  the  haibor  of 
Erie,  from  its  openness,  would  be  certain»y  less  defensible 
than  that  of  Cleveland  ;  and  {!:e  comr.iunicadon  between 
ISIichigan  TerriSory,  and  the  interior  of  Ohio,  rennsylvania, 
Kentiicky,  and  A  irg^inia,  more  direct  by  the  latter  than  the 
former  port. 

We  left  Cleveland  in  iiii^  evening  of  the  fs!h,  with  a  good 
north  east  breeze  ;  we  proceeded  up  the  lake  vith  so  Uiuch 
rapidity  as  to  be  obliged  to  lie  to,  in  order  to  have  diiy-light 
to  enter  Sandusky  bay.  Oil  the  morning  of  the  Dili,  vwv 
vessel  was  under  wav  at  sun-rise  ;  Cunningham's  island  atul 
point  Peninsula  in  view  to  the  west  ;  the  ruain  shore  of  Heb- 
ron county,  in  the  state  of  (Miio,  to  the  scusli,  and  Poii!t-au- 
Ple,  in  Canada,  to  the  north  ;  the  hills  towards  the  sources 
of  Huron  river  to  the  south-east ;  i)ut  in  i.'\v\y  other  di/rc- 
tion,  the  adjacent  shores  and  islands  seei^ied  level,  and  to 
rise  to  no  great  elevation  above  the  water. 


i 


» 


■i  1 


m 

m 


i, 

; 
t 

if.'"' 

!■■{■■'■ 

Ht'-  > 

ISO 


SANDUSKY. 


[let.   XIV. 


Eetwpcn  seven  and  ciglit  A.  M.  1  entered  Sandusky  b»y. 
•^rhis  sht?('t  of  water  is  formed  bv  ilie  expansion  of  Sandushy 
liver,  and  a  loni^,  narrow  si  rip  of  land,  >»hifli  runs  from  be- 
tween tiie  Uioulh  of  (liat  stream  and  Portage  river.  The 
atrip  forms  ihe  outside  of  (he  bay  towards  (he  lake,  and  lias 
received  the  name  of  point  IVninsula,  forms  a  part  of  Hu- 
ron eounty,  and  has  been  erected  into  the  township  of  Dan- 
bury  ;  it  is  about  twenty  miles  lonj:,  and  from  two  to  three 
miles  wide.  From  the  eas(ern  exdenuty  of  the  peninsula, 
extends  a  low,  narrow  point  about  two  miles  long,  approach- 
ing within  a  mile  of  a  similar  low,  long,  narrow  bar  project- 
ing from  ihc  main  shore.  The  space  between  these  bar» 
is  the  cn(  ranee  inio  Sandusky  bay.  The  point  of  the  penin- 
sula is  called  point  Trospect,  the  one  opposite  point  Sandy. 
A  small  round  island  lies  inside  of'point  Prospect,  called  Bull 
island.  The  points  are  covered  wi(h  dwarf  trees,  and  are, 
though  on  a  larger  scale,  in  every  other  icspect  similar  to 
those  which  form  Sodus  bav  in  lake  Ontario. 

The  entrance  lies  close  upon  point  Sandy^  and  like  almost 
all  haibors  in  lake  Krie,  has  seven  feet  water  at  the  shallow- 
est purl.  Our  ship  passed  Bull  island  (o  the  westward  and 
proceeded  to  the  custom  house,  which  is  now  on  the  peninsu- 
la, and  kept  by  a  Frenchman  of  the  name  of  Peter  P.  Ferry. 
"Whilst  our  captain  was  regulating  his  alfairs  with  the  cus- 
tom house  ofiicer,  I  walked  forth  to  examine  the  adjacent 
countjy.  I  found  the  surface  rising  from  the  bay  by  gradu- 
al acclivity,  to  at  least  30  feet  elevation.  Soil  a  deep  black 
loam,  .i'.!:ulxed  with  sand  and  pebble  ;  (imber,  black  walnut, 
shag-bark  hickory,  white  oak,  elm,  linden,  ash,  and  syca- 
more, with  a  shrubbery  of  alder,  sumach,  and  grape  vine. 
On  no  land  of  whatever  quality  did  I  ever  nefore  sec  so  much 
bhick  walnut  on  a  given  space.  This  tree,  whose  existence 
is  an  unerring  proof  of  uncommon  fertility,  is  here  the  pr«- 
valent  timber,  iind  is  found  of  enormous  size  and  height. 

JMost  part  of  the  peninsula  is  yet  unsettled  though  some 
farms  are  co.nmeneed,  and  it  is  needless  (o  say,  after  what 


li;'- 


iET.    XIV.] 


S  AN  DUSK  r. 


181 


I  liuve  already  stateJ  of  t]ic  soil,  tliat  ihe  crops  arc  very 
promising,  particiiiariy  maize  or  Indian  corn.  TIjc  proper- 
ty of  8()i]  <o  the  lamls  of  tlic  peninsula,  belongs  to  those  who 
cnjo^'  the  benelils  ol*  wiiat  is  culled  the  fire  lands.  The  na- 
ture of  (hat  (enure  ,vou  know  arose  from  a  remunera(ive 
grant  made  by  the  government  of  (he  United  States,  to  sonse 
sufferers  by  BriiLsh  depredation,  during  the  war  of  (he 
revolution,  such  as  the  inhabitants  of  Fairfield,  Norwalk, 
and  some  other  places.  Like  most  public  donations  fur  the 
moderate  benefit  of  the  many,  the  fire  grant  has  made  the 
fortunes  of  a  few ;  the  property  has  been,  perhaps,  foolishly 
undervalued,  by  most  of  (hose  for  whose  use  it  was  origi- 
liaily  separated  from  the  public  domain* 

The^  (own  of  Danbury  or  (he  peninsula  of  Sandusky,  con- 
tains a(  least  40  sections,  or  about  2^,(>00  acres,  sufiieient 
for  more  than  one  hundred  moderate  farms.  'J  he  land  i» 
generally  level,  some  prairie,*  (he  forest  land  extremely 
well  (i  iibered  ;  it  will  no  doubt  become  the  seat  of  a  flour- 
ishit'g  settlement. 

I  crossed  the  bay  from  the  peninsula  (o  the  town  of  San- 
dusky or  Portland,  as  it  seems  (he  village  bears  both  names. 
The  bay  is  here  about  four  miles  wide,  which  breadth  it 
main(ains  almost  (o  its  head,  except  at  the  narrows  about 
five  miles  above  the  viilaga  of  Sandusky.  The  shores  arc 
every  whce  but  lid.w  raised  above  the  water,  in  some  pla- 
ces fiat  and  marshy,  soil  exuberantly  fertile. 

It  is  curious  to  ijce  in  the  heart  of  (he  continent  of  North 
America,  a  country  so  perfectly  alluvial,  as  that  which  en- 
circles the  south-west  and  west  part  of  lake  Erie.  Except 
the  hill  behind  theci><«tom  house  on  the  peninsula,  every  oth- 
er object  in  San<liisky  bay  reminded  me  strongly  of  some 
parts  of  lower  Louisiana,  and  indeed  few  places  can  be  more 
similar  though  so  distant,  and  so  differently  situated  respect- 

*  Prairie,  this  word  is  fiom  the  French,  and  signifies  literally 
meadow. 


M 
i.it 


"1;J 


18:2, 


SANUUSKV. 


[let.    XIV. 


It?'' 


Ill'  i. 


'i^:-: 


ing  the  ocean.  All  the  rivers  uhieli  flow  into  lake  Eric  arc 
inhM'seo-Jcd  by  ledges  of  roek,  at  a  greater  or  less  dihtance 
iVom  the  margin  ot'the  lake.  1  Mave  already  noticed  the  al- 
luvial border  skii'tin™  iVo::)  Buffalo,  along  (be  south-east  side 
of  the  lake,  with  ivMV^  crleas  breiultii  ;  thoi);;h  in  some  places 
very  narrow,  as  hilv.C'.^n  Diinkiik  an<l  Erlu.  This  alluvial 
border  is  continuous.  In  no  jijacc  c:,ti:\^!j  interrupted,  and 
west  of  Cayaboga  river  spreads  to  ih<y  width  of  i'roni  five 
to  (en  !ni!es.  'J'he  ridge  of  hilh  viiieli  separate  the  waters 
of  Ohio  river  from  those  ol*  hike  Erie,  and  to  >v hose  phe- 
nomena I  have  drawn  your  adention,  eniers  the  state  of  Oliio 
near  the  dividing  line  of  Asiitabtila  iuid  Trumbull  counties; 
pursuing  a  soutii-west  direction  it  intersects  Trumbull  and 
Portage  diagonally,  giving  rise  on  its  south-east  slope  (o 
5ieaver  river  of  Ohio,  and  from  iis  noriiiwest  inclination 
(low  Giand  and  Cayalioga  rivers.  From  the  south- west  an- 
gle of  Trumbull  county,  the  dividing  ridge  assumes  a  west 
direction,  which  it  pursues  along  the  nordiern  border  of 
Stark,  and  V/ayno,  and  more  than  half  of  that  of  Richland 
county.  From  this  latter  part  of  tlie  ridge,  flow  to  tho 
south  the  head  waters  of  Muskingum,  and  to  the  north,  part 
of  that  of  Cayaboga,  and  the  sources  of  Rocky,  Black, 
Beaver  of  lake  Ei'ie,  Vermillion,  and  Huron  rivers.  In 
Richland  county  the  ridge  turns  soutli-wcst,  which  course  it 
maintains  through  the  remainder  of  the  state  of  Ohio ;  dis- 
charging soutliwardly  the  waters  of  Scioto  and  Miami,  and 
northwardly  those  of  Sandusky  and  Maumec  rivers.  This 
ridge  docs  not  every  where  appear  in  the  actual  form  of  hills, 
with  intervening  vales,  but  spreads  into  nn  extensive  tabic 
land.  It  is,  however,  every  where  a  distinctive  land-mark, 
and  forms  an  important  geological  feature  in  the  physiogno- 
my of  our  country.  It  appears  to  rest  upon,  and  to  be  in 
great  part,  except  the  mere  surface,  composed  of  micaceous 
or  limestone  schist.  The  rocks  forming  siielving  acclivities, 
produce  the  rapids  and  falls,  which  are  found  in  all  its  rivers. 
The  lowest  visible  ledge  of  this  vast  schistose  mass,  borders 


■i':-:: 


LET.    XIV.] 


SANnUSKY. 


iS; 


the  ^rcat  lake  Eric  alluvial  plain,  wliieli  1  jiavo  noticed. 
The  plain  has  all  the  features  of  recent  alluvion  ;  (he  sh-eanis 
are  hluj^gish  in  theii*  motions,  (heir  beds  havinj;  bin  little  in- 
clination 5  the  laml  alonj.^  the  hanks  is  the  hij^hi^st  part  of  iho 
tji'ound ;  (he  intervening^  spaces  between  the  rivers  arc  lo.v 
and  mostly  swampy;  much  of  the  entire  surface  is  prairie, 
and  cover  ^  with  an  exuberant  herba;;e ;  the  soil,  where 
snfiiciently  elevated  (or  culture,  is  productive  to  excess  ;  and 
the  inhabitants  are  subject  to  intennilliny  fcveis,  dniini^  tho 
la(ter  part  of  (he  snnmier  and  be.^inninfi;  of  the  fall  season. 
These  are  tlie  attributes  of  recent  aliuvion,  from  (he  fens  of 
Lincolnshire,  and  Holland  ;  from  the  Poniinc  marslics  to 
those  of  the  Amazon,  Oronoeo,  Mississippi,  asul  the  shores 
of  Erie. 

The  extent,  and  unhealthfulness  of  the  lake  Erie  alluvion, 
lias  been  very  greatly  overraied.  lis  greatest  positive 
breadth  is  at  the  mouth  of  Mlaumee,  and  tlioie  it  falls  siiurt 
of  twenty  miles.  Followin}>:  (he  curve  of  lake  Erie,  from 
the  mouth  of  Huron  river,  in  Huron  county,  to  IJrownstown, 
in  the  lilichigan  Territory,  is  about  (00  miles,  antl  allowing 
the  alluvion  ten  miles  wide,  would  produce  iCt;0  square 
inih  s  or  (540,000  acres.  I  am  convinced  from  all  1  have 
been  able  to  learn  respectin,i;  (he  country,  (hat  (he  foregoini^ 
is  too  large  an  es(ima(e.  Swamps  and  Hats  exist  above  the 
Ijwer  falls  in  (he  rivers,  but  are  of  a  nature  essentially  dis- 
tinct from  the  alluvial  plains  alon?;;  the  lake  shore. 

The  villa.i>;e  of  Sandusky  contains  only  a  few  new  houses. 
The  bank  slopes  from  t!ie  waier  ed;;".!  a  short  distance,  and 
then  becomes  an  almost  uniform  level.  The  depth  of  soil  is 
not  considerable  ;  the  bank  upon  which  the  town  is  built 
resis  upon  a  bed  i  "schistose  sandstone,  of  excellent  quality 
for  building  and  paving.  This  schistose  base  no  doubt  un- 
derlays the  whole  adjacent  country,  extending  under  the 
mass  of  similar  rock  over  which  the  waters  of  the  vai'ious 
s(reams  arc  precipitated  in  theii*  way  from  (he  higher  inte- 


■M 


li 


i  ( 
i  ( 


iior  region. 


FT 

\  ■ 

IS^ 


tliXICE. 


[let.    XIV. 


I  walked  IVcn  the  villapjc  of  Sandusky  to  (hat  of  Venice, 
lour  and  n  half  miles  higher  up  (he  hu;^'.  QiiiUing  the  vil- 
laj;e  of  Sandusky  a  very  short  ilistance,  I  was  m«ro  than 
ever  impressed  with  tlie  re^^mhlanee  of  the  surface  of  the 
carlh  to  many  places  I  had  seen  on  the  southern  waters  of 
the  Mississippi.  The  timher  was  in  great  part  different 
from  that  of  Louisiana,  hut  with  the  exception  of  sugar  ma- 
ple considcrahle  rcsemhlance  exists  in  the  forests  of  the  two 
countries.  I  found  here  upon  the  Sandusky  plain  three  or 
four  species  of  hickory,  three  or  four  of  oak,  intermixed 
M'ith  ash,  elm,  linden,  sugar  maple,  and  an  underwood  of 
•alder  and  siitnae. 

I  found  Venice  situated  upon  the  western  shore  of  a  muddy 
creek,  upon  a  hank  much  lower  and  mor^  disadvanlageously 
situated  than  that  upon  which  stands  the  village  of  Sandusky 
or  Portland  ;  (hough  the  former  village  is  at  present  much 
larger  than  t!ie  latter.  Each  have  the  appearance  of  towns 
in  the  first  stage  of  their  existence.  In  January  1798,  I  saw 
the  now  ilouj'ishing  Steuhenville,  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  not 
more  advanced  or  promising  th^n  arc  now  Sandusky  and 
Venice.  The  great  fertility  of  the  lands  in  tlieir  neighhor- 
liood,  and  their  situation  upon  one  of  the  best  harhors  of 
lake  Erie,  are  propitious  circumstances  in  favor  ol  their  fu- 
ture prosperity.  The  western  line  of  the  Fire  lands  and  of 
the  surveyed  part  of  the  state  of  Ohio,  crosses  Sandusky  bay 
about  two  miles  west  of  Venice,  and  continuing  nc-rth  crosses 
tlie  peninsula  and  leaves  fhe  township  of  Danbury  to  the 
east. 

Monday,  August  10th,  I  left  Sandusky  hay  with  a  breeze 
from  the  west,  and  after  clearing  the  bar  had  a  fine  view  of 
tlie  peninsula,  Cunningham's  island,  and  the  southern  Bass 
island.  With  a  light  wind  upon  our  quarter  we  sailed  to  the 
north-west,  between  Cunningham's  island  ana  the  peninsula, 
the  channel  about  three  miles  wide.  I  had  a  \evy  fair  view 
of  the  adjacent  shores,  and  found  them  composed,  as  I  had 
formerly  heard  them  represented,  of  schistose  sandstone  and 


J'T.T.   XIV. 

ff  the  vil- 
li» re  (han 
ace  of  the 
wafers  of 
I  difltrent 
su;;ai'  ma- 
of  t!ic  two 
n  (Jiree  or 
ntermixed 
crwood  of 

fa  muddy 
itageouslj 
Sandusk_j' 
sent  much 
c  of  tOMns 
^98,  I  saw 
I  Oliio,  not 
fiisky  and 
neigh  l)or- 
larbors  of 
\  their  i'u- 
ds  and  of 
Jusky  bay 
th  crosses 
iry  to  the 

I  a  breeze 
e  view  of 
ern  Bass 
led  to  the 
leninsula, 
fair  view 
as  I  had 
itone  and 


K 


u 


■  w*- 


'H-^    "*T35^ 


I-ET.    XIV.J 


PUT-IX-DAY. 


1&; 


^    o 


<:• 


ei'Utiii)ling  liuiostono  ;  (lie*  latter  frequently  Nvhito  av  eliulk* 
and  appears  worr  iiitu  cliusni»  1)^  the  surfol'  the  luke,  and 
ribing  froiu  one  tu  Ua  IVet  abuve  the  water.  Cunriin^^hain'ti  i;* 
the  castcrninoMt  and  hirgesit  of  the  hike  Erie  itihindH,  is  about 
:i(  miles  lun^;  by  one  iiudiul  vidlU*  or  covering;  perhapv  two 
thousand  aeres  of  laud.  Some  8etilementii  were  formerly 
made  upon  this  island,  but  the  inhabitants  wore  obliged  by 
the  savages  to  abandon  their  farms  durin;^  the  last  war. 

Passing  Cunningham's,  the  IV.iss  islands  eamo  in  view  (o 
the  N.  \y.  about  eight  or  ten  miles  distant.  Approaching 
(he  southern  Bass,  the  first  prominent  object  that  is  now 
Heen,  is  what  is  ualled  Edward's  clearings  or  Tut-in-hay. 
The  west  wind  prevented  me  from  visiting  this  noble  harbor, 
decidedly  the  best  in  all  lake  Erie,  and  dear  to  the  American 
heart,  fi'om  the  events  of  last  war.  It  was  tVom  here,  that 
on  the  morning  of  September  10th,  ISIS,  Commodore  Perry 
led  his  fleet,  to  obtain  the  first  naval  victory,  in  squadron, 
ever  obtained  by  the  United  States  ;  and  it  was  into  this 
bay,  that  on  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  the  captured  Bri- 
tish fleet  was  conveyed  by  its  intrepid  conquerors.  You  have 
90  often  read,  and  so  well  remember  the  detail  of  this  event, 
that  a  repetition  here  would  be  lost  time  to  us  both. 

I  passed  the  eastern  mouth  of  Put-in-bay  at  the  distance 
of  half  a  mile  ;  its  form  and  situation  are  both  admirable. 
The  Bass  islands  form  a  group  of  seven,  lying  about  three 
miles  from  part  of  the  Sandusky  peninsula,  and,  as  I  havo 
already  observed,  seven  or  eight  miles  north-west  of  Cun- 
ningham's island.  Put-in-bay,  is  formed  by  a  curve  of  tho 
largest  and  most  southern  of  the  Buss  groups,  having 
two  entrances,  one  from  the  east  and  the  other  from  the  west. 
The  bay  is  very  finely  land-locked.  The  second  large  island 
of  the  group,  stretching  from  east  to  west  across  the  widest 
part  at  half  a  mile  distant,  and  one  of  the  smaller  islands 
lying  opposite  each  channel.  The  three  main  islands  do  not 
difier  much  in  extent,  though  that  in  which  is  Put  In-bay  is 
tko  largest.    All  arc  uninhabited,  and  covered  with  a  dense 

O 


'.('..I 


^  9. .  in:. 


s* 


^ 


rlO 


%  0 


itlUJIf 


rv.:>^''""' 


3 


•^ 


?j  - 


o 

H 


t^; 


w 


._  i 


—■-'W'*    "*fS:^ 


vt 


I'  ■■■'■'J' 


rl 


136 


HEN    &   CHICKENS. 


[let.   XIV. 


forest.  1  had  no  means  to  determine  their  s«rea  with  certain- 
tj'f  but  judged  the  three  main  islands  to  average  about  ono 
and  a  half  miles  long,  and  half  a  mile  wiiie»  and  may  cover 
from  2)500  to  3000  acres  taken  collectively,  resting  upon  a 
solid  mass  of  schistose  rock  in  great  part  limestone.  From 
here  limestone,  for  the  purpose  of  making;  lime,  is  carried  as 
far  as  Detroit  and  Cleveland.  The  soil  is  excellent,  and 
would  admit  a  little  settlement  of  thirty  or  forty  families. 
But  every  object  of  utility  to  which  the  Bass  islands  could 
be  applied,  yields  to  the  importance  of  Put-in-bay.  This 
"tie  haven  admits  entrance  and  anohorage  for  vessels  of  any 
supposablc  d..'aught,  safe  from  all  winds.  It  must  become, 
from  its  position  and  depth  of  water,  an  object  of  great  na- 
tional value.  No  harbor  in  lake  Erie,  or  in  its  connecting 
waters,  except  in  Eiie  strait,  can  in  any  respect  compare 
"^vith  it ;  its  uccupfition  as  a  naval  and  commercial  station 
must  one  day  take  places 

The  wind  continuing  lights  we  passed  the  Bass  island  slow- 
]y,  sailizig  north,  and  when  opposite  the  north-westernmost 
of  the  group,  could  also  distinctly  see  point  Fele  island 
on  the  Canada  shore.  CI  aring  the  Bass  islands,  we  turned 
again  north-west,  but  were  almost  becalmed  all  the  afternoon ; 
we,  however,  passed  the  group  of  small  islands,  called  the 
Hen  &  Chickens,  consisting  of  four,  lying  in  a  kind  of  cres- 
ceBt>  five  OS'  six  miles  north-west  of  the  northern  Bass.  Wc 
left  the  Hen  &  Chickens  to  the  north,  and  in  the  evening  had 
the  Bass  islands  to  the  south-east,  the  Hen  &  ^.ickcns  north- 
east, and  the  eastern  Sister  island  to  the  west.  We  were 
now  unon  or  very  near  the  scene  of  Perry's  battle  $  the  eve- 
ning was  serene  and  beautiful  j  our  little  bark  glided  smooth^ 
]y  and  slowly  over  the  waves,  w here  exaotly  five  years,  less  one 
month  before,  the  United  States'  flag  w  as  hoisted  overtheBri- 
tish  ensign.  I  do  not  remember  to  have  ever  sp«nt  an  evening 
r.t  sea  with  so  much  pleasure.  I  literally  fell  asleep  on  deck, 
listening  to  a  sailor  repeutrdly  singing  a  rude  song,  eom- 
mcq^orative  of   this  event  of  natiouul  glory.      The  song- 


■   'if  t| 


LBT.   XIY. 


sisteh  liiLANlid; 


187 


stcr  had  himself  been  in  (he  battle,  and  seemed  to  feel  a 
strong  emotion  of  national  enthusiasm  in  passing  the  now 
peaceful  seene,  where  he  saw  the  humbled  pride  of  the  ene- 
mies of  his  country. 

There  are  three  islands  extending  south-west  from  the 
Hen  &  Chickens,  and  stretching  towards  Maumee  bay,  they 
are  called  the  eastern,  mid<  o,  and  western  Sister,  though 
in  fact  they  lie  from  each  other  north-east  and  south-west ; 
they  are  all  small,  neither  exceeds  twenty  or  thirty  acres. 
The  eastern  Sister,  the  .smallest  of  the  three,  being  about 
three  acres,  on  which  a  considerable  part  of  general  Harri- 
8on*s  army,  the  same  which  reconquered  Michigan,  and  de- 
feated gener?^l  Proctor  on  the  Thames,  was  encamped  from 
the  25th  to  the  27th  September,  1813.  It  was,  in  all  human 
probability,  for  that  length  of  time,  the  best  peopled  island 
that  ever  existed  on  our  globe. 

On  the  afcernoon  of  the  lith,  I  arrived  in  the  city  of  De- 
troit, considerably  fatigued,  and  very  willing  to  enjoy  solid 
land,  though  so  short  a  time  in  the  vessel.  You  will  hear  of 
me  again  in  a  few  days, 

Adieu. 


t,V,ll 


f,.^• 


-««iM^<S»— 


LETTER  XV, 


t 


Detroit,  Augtist  Or,  1818. 
Dear  Sin, 

I  HAVE  now  been  three  days  in  this  city,  which  for  oiarfj^ 
reasons  has  excited  and  continues  to  excite  more  attention 
thAQ  its  apparent  magnitude  would  secM  t<i  Justify.    Th* 


m 


l.V 


..■J;  .  , 


Ji'   ■>. 


W  V  ■  ■ 


ri  ''"., 


:,  J"l,     ■ 


i 


J. 


I 


188 


UBTUOIT. 


[let.    XV 


events  of  last  war  contiibuted  (o  rendei*  both  the  diy  and 
country  objects  of  great  interest  to  the  American  people. 
Like  most  events  that  have  taken  place  in  tbc  world,  v  here 
so  much  passion  Mas  excited,  I  am  convinced  that  those  in 
this  quarter,  and  the  operations  of  affairs  here,   have  never 
been  given  to  the  world  in  all   the  naked  purity  of  truth. 
This  much  may  be  said,  without  onco  attempting  to  call  in 
question  the  veracity  of  any  individual.     Much  distortion  of 
judgment  may  exist  without  a  breach  of  rectitude.     It  would 
perliaps  be  dangerous  to  offer  an  opinion  in  mitigation  of  the 
conduct  of  general  Hull,  and  yet  if  tlie  expressions  of  those 
most  concerned  and  best  informed  on  this  subject,  that  is 
the  persons  wlio  were  here  before  the  war,  and  remained 
here  to  its  termiaation,  deserve  any  weight,  that  unfortunate 
officer  was  rather  incapable  tban  treacherous,  rather  borne 
down  by  the  weiglit  of  the  diflieultics  that  en^  ironed  him  ou 
ull  sides,  than  disposed  to  sacrifice  either  tiic  interest  or 
honor  of  a  country,  in  whose   service  he  had  grown  grey. 
And  yet  if  these  mitigating  opinions  be  founded  upon  reality, 
general  Hull,  if  his  days  were  not  abridged,  the  remaining 
years  of  his  life  were  doomed  to  be  passed  in  bitterness  and 
regret,  for  causes  over  which  he  ha<i.  t.m  control,  for  calami- 
ties in  which  lie  himself  was   a  sufferer,  and  without  the 
power  to  produce  a  pt'cventive  or  remedy. 

Detroit,  politically  and  commercially,  is  separated  by  an 
expanse  of  water,  a!»d  by  an  uncultivated  waste,  from  the 
other  parts  of  the  United  States,  and  remains,  together  with 
tlie  little  community  in  its  environs,  an  isolated  moral  mass, 
having  few  symputliies  in  common,  and  but  a  slight  tie  of 
interest  to  unite  it  to  the  sovereignty  of  which  it  forms  a 
part.  Much  of  the  association  is  formed  with,  and  great 
part  of  (he.  trade  of  Detroit  is  yet  carried  towards  a  foreign 
state.  'I'IjIs  separation  of  srnllment  and  action,  is  daily  be- 
coming less  distant  between  the  great  body  of  the  United 
St:Ues  communitv,  and  a  small  but  important  member.  The 
savage  tribes  are  retiring,  and  civilized  man  extending  his 


dw 
M 


fWST. 


XV. 


LET.    XV,jj 


UETROIT. 


189 


cirj  and 
an  people. 
W,  ivhei'c 
t  (liose  ia 
avc  never 
of  truth, 
to  call  in 
[stortion  of 
it  would 
ion  of  the 
s  of  (hose 
U  that  is 
remained 
Jfortunatc 
hev  borne 

t'tJ  liini  on 
nterest  ov 
>wn  grey. 
)n  reality, 
remaining 
rncss  and 
►''  calami- 
tiiout  the 

tPd  by  an 
fiom  the 
^er  with 

al  mass, 
It  tie  of 

forms  a 
id  great 

fojeign 
laily  he. 

Uni(ed 
r*.    Tha 


UwcHing  over  the  wide  expanse,  from  Ohio  river  to  lakes 
Michigan  and  Huron. 

Many  years  past,  when  I  resided  in  Louisiana,  and  when 
by  a  freak  of  folly  so  common  with  Spanish  officers,  the 
port  of  New-Orleans  was  closed  upon  the  interior  commerce 
of  the  United  States  ;  I  well  remember  that  the  two  great 
political  parties,  into  which  our  country  was  then  divided, 
though  discussing  warmly  the  most  proper  means  of  procu- 
ring  this  commercial  key,  in  one  circumstance  they  were  of 
accord,  that  was,  that  the  surplus  produce  of  all  our  states 
and  territories,  situated  upon  the  tributary  streams  of  the 
Mississippi,  must  find  a  vent  by  that  great  outlet ;  and  poli- 
ticians of  all  parties  eoneedcd  that  the  power,  whether  that 
of  Spain,  France,  Great  Britain,  or  the  United  States, 
which  pobscsscd  New-Orleans,  must,  with  that  city,  secure 
also  the  political  and  moral  government  of  the  inhabitants  of 
countries,  whose  vital  interests  were  there  concentrated.  I 
have  heard  and  read  many  reasons  given  for  and  against  th© 
Grand  Canal  of  New- York,  but  the  most  potent  incentive  to 
its  completion,  that  ought  to  influence  those  who  are  employ- 
ed to  carry  that  vast  project  into  execution,  has  been  gener- 
rally  overlooked.  If  such  a  channel  of  commerce  was  open, 
the  consequence  would  be,- not  only  to  secure  to  the  United 
States  the  benefits  of  the  produce  of  its  own  industry,  but 
also  to  secure  the  moral  attachment  of  the  inhabitants  of  some 
of  its  remote,  and,  as  matters  now  stand,  most  detached  parts. 
Above  tiie  falls  of  Niagara,  Canadian  commerce  would  also 
flow  with  the  most  open,  unobstructed  current,  and  give  to 
the  people  of  the  United  States  an  irresistible  influence  over 
the  widest  extent,  and  most  fertile  part  of  Upper  Canada. 
BufiUlo,  Detroit,  Michilimakinac,  and  Green  bay,  would 
form  an  immense  chain  of  inter-communicalion,  and  by  Fos; 
and  Ouisconsin  rivers,  the  commercial  rivalry  of  New-York 
and  New  Orleans  would  come  in  contact  in  the  heart  of  out 
oountry. 

OS, 


^Mi' I'M  ! 

■  ■  , 

:■■;  M 

<!•■  i' 


190 


UKTROIT. 


[let.  XV 


t:-\.: 


Detroit  is  now  a  ]>Iacc  of  extensive  conimerce»  with  all 
the  attributes  of  a  seaport ;  it  forms  the  uniting  link  between 
ft  vast  interior,  inhabited  jct/in  great  part  by  savages,  and 
the  civilized  Atlantic  border.     You   here  behold  those  pon> 
derous  packages  of  articles  destined  for  Indian  trade,  and 
vhile  viewing  those  bales  of  stroud  and  blankets,  I  could  not 
avoid  calling  to  recollection  the  time  when  I  beheld  the  same 
objects  upon  the  Ohio,  at  Pittsburg,  AVhecling,  Marietta, 
Cincinnati,  and  Louisville  ;  places,  where  at  this  time,  those 
rude  articles  are  replaced  by  objects  to  satisfy  the  wants,  or 
gratify  the  luxury  of  a  polislied  people,     'i'he  resident  society 
of  Detroit,  has  ail  the  exterior  features  of  a  ilourishing  and 
cultivated  community,  as  much  so,  equivalent  to  nunibers,  as 
any  city  of  the  United  States.     1  particularly  remarked  tho 
};reat  resemblance  between  the  current  of  business  and  mix- 
ture of  {leople  here,  and  at  Xatchitoches  on  Red  river,  in 
Louisiana.     Each  pla'^e  occupies  the  point  of  contact,  be- 
tween the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  the  wilderness,  and  the 
civilized  people,  who  are  pressing  those  natives  of  North 
America  backwards,  by  the  double  force  of  physical   and 
moral  weight.     In  each  place,  jou  behold  at  one  glance  the 
extremes  of  human   improvement,  costume,  and  manners. 
\ou  behold  the  inhabitants  in  habiliments  that  would  suit  the 
"walks  of  New-York,  Philadelphia,  London  or  Paris,  and  you 
also  beliold  the  hnshy,  bare-headed  savage,  almost  in  primse- 
ral  nudity.     In  the  same  slore-heusc,  you  see  placed  upon 
the  same  shelf,  objects  to  supply  the  first  and  last  'wants  of 
liuntan  nature. 

Tiic  oily  of  Detroit  is  situated  upon  the  rJght  bank  of  the 
fitraU  of  tlie  same,  which  unites  lakes  Erie  and  Huron  ;* 
N.  lat  42"  ib'  oG" — AV.  long,  from  Washington  city,  5«  36' — 
or  S2"  .36*  west  from  London.  The  strjiit  (Detroit)  is  of 
very  unMiU'al  brcaddi,   its  narrowest  part  is  jmniediaiely  op- 

*  Detroit,  h  the  Frficli  for  Strnit,  and  litrrally  signifies  lATir- 
r'.'Jr  ;  fimn  \^)lich  cliuiige  of  an  adjeclivu  to  a  noun,  conies  the 
ruuiC  of  J/etroit. 


[let. 


x\ 


lET.   XV.] 


BliTROIT. 


491 


»  wiUj  all 
k  between 
as«8,  and 
jfJiose  j)on- 
'•Hde,  and 
could  not 
t'le  same 
MaiieUa, 
»ne,  (hose 
wants,  op 
n<  socierv 
s'iing  and 
a»beis,  as 
^»'ked  (lio 
and  mix- 
»'iver,  in 
(act,  bl- 
and ({ie 
«*'  Norrh 
"*eal  and 
'anee  (he 
uiannpi's. 
I  suit  (he 
and  J  ou 
pi'imse- 
t^<i  irpOD 
»van(s  of 

of  (he 
ui'on  ;* 
°  o6'-_ 
)  is  of 

fij  0J)» 

ics  the  - 


positc  the  c'ltj  of  Detroit.  I  had  letters  (o  Peter  Audrain* 
esq.  Register  of  (he  land  office  in  tiqs  city*  which  procured 
ine  access  to  the  maps  in  his  office,  amongst  which  is  an  excel- 
lent representation  of  that  part  of  tlie  Michigan  Territory 
which  has  been  surveyed,  together  with  the  straits  of  St. 
Clair  and  Erie,  and  lake  St.  Clair,  connected  with  the  adja-^ 
cent  shores  of  Canada.  I  have  copied  this  map,  from  which 
the  following  table  is  constructed : 

TABLE 

OP  THE    STATIONARY   DISTANCES   FROM   LAKE  ERIE  TO   LAKE    HURON, 
WITH  THE  WIDTH  OF  THE  SRAlTS  OPPOSITE  EACH   STATION. 


Station. 

Milet. 

Breadth. 

Huron  river,  U.  S.  shore, 

5 

I^vvtr  extremity  of  Celeron  island, 

2 

4 

JMoulh  of  Brown's  creek,  U.  S.  shore, 

1 

3 

4 

Bois  Blanc  island,  opposite  the  lower  end 

. 

of  Gros  isle,            -            -            • 

1 

4 

4 

Upper  end  of  Bois  Blanc, 

1  1-i 

5  1-4 

4 

Amiierstsburg,  and  Fort  Maiden,  Canada, 

1-4 

5  1-3 

4 

River  aux  Canards, 

3  1-2 

9 

4 

Jjower  end  of  Grand  Turkey  island, 

1 

10 

4 

Upper  end  of  Gros  island,  U.  S.  shore, 

2 

13 

4 '.-4 

Mouth  of  the  river  Ecorces, 

2 

14 

0 

Upper  end  of  Grand  Turkey  island,    - 

3 

17 

2 

River  Rouge,  U.  S.  shore. 

I 

18 

1  1-4 

Sandwich,  in  Canada, 

2 

20 

1 

City  of  DETROIT, 

1  1-2 

21  1-2 

3-4 

Lower  end  of  Hog  island, 

2  1-2 

24 

1  1-2 

"Upper    do.              do.            * 

3 

26 

2 

Low«r  end  of  Peach  island, 

I 

27 

I  1-3 

Upper    do.             do. 

I 

28 

Mouth  of  Huron  river,  of  lake  St.  Clair, 

and  entrance  to  Anchor  bay, 

19 

47 

J^outh  of  St.  Clair  river, 

7 

54 

I 

Outlet  of  the  Eagle  channel. 

4 

58 

I 

Outlet  of  the  Warpole  channel. 

61 

I 

Outlet  of  the  Chenail  Ecrate, 

2 

63 

Mouth  of  Belle  Riviere,           •• 

4 

67 

Mouth  of  Pine  river. 

8 

75 

Lower  end  of  isle  aux  Cerfe, 

4 

79 

Upper  end  of           do. 

2 

81 

River  Delude,  U.  S.  shore. 

5 

86 

f 

Fort  Gratiot,  M.  T.  and  entrance  to  lake 

1 

Huron;           -           • 

3 

89 

i 

i 

M| 

fflfl|n^ 

!i^^i  i 

> 

:'^    M 

''Si' 

'\  ■' 

'  ^.t 

/J       .      '. 

,Tlf  ' 

,  ""^8 

t  ■ 

■.             ' 

. ,  ( 

' 

m- 

',■'■■■ 

I 

^:<r:- 

,i 

- 

1 

t^        V,'  J. 


l--^''- 


^]^: 


y^". 

•If. 

' 

.I^SJ 

.,,  /'^ 

I0K; 

».-'■ 

■ '..  / 

■•  % 


192 


BETIIOIT. 


[let.    XV. 


Tlicsp  (list nnees  are  not  (akcn  uilli  prcclijion  to  small  frac- 
tions of  a  mile,  hut  measiinn^  llio  enliri*  disfanccs  by  five 
mile  sections  taken  from  I  lie  seale,  tlie  respeclive  lesutft  are 
sufficiently  near  as  to  answer  all  general  purposes,  and  will 
suffice  to  onaMe  you  to  form  an  accurate  iiJea  of  the  rela- 
tive position  of  the  places  named.  I  have  not  given  in 
the  tahle  the  hreadlh  of  St.  Clair  river,  ahovc  the  Che- 
nail  Eearte,*  as  it  is  uniformly  about  three  fourths  of  a 
mile. 

Approaclilng  the  mouth  of  Detroit  river,  the  shores  on 
«ll  sidea  are  low,  no  land  h  seen  that  rises  to  any  considera- 
1)le  elevation  above  the  i^ater.  The  ship  channel  heini||;  or 
the  Canada  side,  vessels  pass  close  upon  the  cape  below  Am- 
lierslburg  ;  the  shores  rise  here  very  gently  from  the  lake, 
soil  sandy,  but  ai>pear  well  settled  and  cultivated.  Huron 
river  of  lake  Erief  enters  from  Michigan  Terrilorj,  where 
the  lake  is  so  contracted  as  to  render  it  a  suitable  point  to 
rommenee  the  name  of  Jhe  strait,  though  no  perceptible 
current  appears  below  the  bottom  of  2'ois  Blanc  island.  A 
group  of  small  islands  encircle  the  lower  end  of  Gros  isle, 
of  which  Celeron,  Hickory,  Sugar,  Fox,  and  particularly 
Bois  Blanc,  are  the  principal.  The  latter  is  indeed  of  great, 
consequence.  It  is  high,  dry,  and  fit  for  culture,  covered 
\vith  timber,  soil  extremely  fertile  ;  but  what  renders  it  a 
])articular  object  of  interest,  is  the  circumstance  of  its  com- 
pletely commanding  the  main  ship  channel  to  Detroit.  A 
much  wider  expanse  of  water  lies  between  Bois  Blanc  and 
Gros  isle,  and  between  Gros  isle  and  the  continent  of  Mi^ 

*Tiie  term  Chenal,  or  v-nere  correclly  Chernl  Ecnrte,  signifies 
literally  dispersed  or  scattered,  and  is  very  well  .npplieri  !o  the  out- 
let of  rivers;  but  the  same  name  is  given  in  several  instances  in 
Canada  to  waters  flowing  into  others,  therefore  very  improper. 

f  There  are  three  rivers  of  this  name,  two  of  whicli  enter  lake 
Eric,  and  one  Anchor  bay  in  lake  St.  Claxr.  It  is  extremely  per- 
j>lexing,  such  repetition  of  the  same  names  for  places  so  near  each 
other. 


Ghi 
ndi 
mi 
oti 
sui 


.'•   II 


:  'A- 


XBT.  X\\3 


AMUERSTBUHG. 


195 


cliigan  Territory,  (lian  flows  bclween  Bois  Blanc  and  (lie  Csm- 
ada  shore,  Iiiit  the  latter,  tlioiigli  not  above  one  quarter  of  a 
milo  wide,  is  deep  enough  for  llic  largest  vessel,  whilst  Ihc 
otiiers  are  shailow;  and  perplexed  with  small  islands  and 
(iunken  bars. 

During  last  war,  a  small  battery  was  erected  on  the  lower 
point  of  Bois  Blanc,  which  is  now  deserted,  and  the  island 
now  serves  as  a  camping  ground  for  the  savages  wiio  visit 
Amherstburg.  This  inland  will  be  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant points  which  the  commissioners,  under  the  treatv  of 
Client,  will  have  to  deteriuine.  At  Amherstburg  the  banks 
liave  gradually  risen  to  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  above  the  water, 
sloping  by  very  gentle  acclivity.  The  town  contains  from 
250  to  oOG  houses,  mostly  of  wood,  and  perhap?  twelve  hun- 
dred people.  The  harbor  is  excellent,  the  water  continuing 
deep  to  very  near  the  shore.  Some  fine  ware-houses  line  the 
banks,  and  with  the  shipping  give  a  commercial  nir  to  the 
jilace.  The  adjacent  farms  liave  an  elegant  appearance, 
and  follow  ''♦ach  other  without  much  interval  of  uncleared 
land. 

Fort  Maiden,  by  vvbieli  name  Amherstburg  was  formerly 
known,  stands  above  the  ioMn*  but  is  now  in  ruins,  only  some 
dilapidated  breasi  Morks  and  barracks  remain,  to  be  perhaps 
never  repaired. 

Gros  isle  is  a  fine  body  of  land,  eight  miles  long  by  a  me- 
dijil  width  of  one  and  a  half  miles,  contains  al>out  twelve 
sections  of  a  mile  square,  or  7,680  acres  of  excellent  land. 
Several  farms  have  been  opened  on  this  island,  but  the  great- 
est part  of  its-surface  continues  under  a  I'.eavv  forest.  From 
the  upper  point  of  Bois  Blanc  island,  the  ship  (  bannel  grad- 
ually leaves  the  Canada  shore,  and  passes  between  Gros  and 
Grand  Turkey  island,  the  main  channel  about  two  miles 
wide.  Turkey  island  is  about  seven  miles  in  length  and  one 
mile  medial  breadth,  much  of  its  iurface  marshy.  The 
riviere  aux  Canards  or  Duck  river,  falls  into  the  strait 
ir««  the  Canada  side,  one  mile  below  the  lower  point  of 


.     KM 


^^1 

i 


iyi 


9TUAIT. 


^ET. 


XV 


fly 


^i..'' 


Grand  Turkey  islaiul  ^  llic  riviere  aux  Ecorccs  or  "^ark 
I'ivor  from  Micliigar  lerritorv,  enters  suniediing  above  its 
iniddle,  or  two  miles  above  the  liigber  point  of  Gros  isle  ; 
riviere  Koiige  or  Ilc{?  river,  falls  into  the  s!rait,  also  from 
Tilieliigan  I'erritory,  four  miles  above  tluj  liviere  aux  Ecor- 
ces,  and  one  mile  above  the  higher  extreiiiil}  of  Grand  Tur- 
key island.  Above  ti)e  latter  island,  the  strait  suddenly'  eon- 
tracts  from  four  to  one  and  a  quarter  >vide,  and  continues 
Lceomlng  narrower  to  the  city  of  Detroit,  where  its  width 
falls  short  of  a  mile. 

In  coming  up  the  strait^  when  the  woods  of  Gros  isle  arc 
elearcJI,  both  shores  exhibit  lines  of  farm  houses,  intersper- 
sed 'ivith  orchards  and  gardens.  'I'hc  settlements  on  the 
United  States  side,  continue  up  tho  rivieres  Eeorces  and 
]touge,  which,  together  with  those  along  the  shore  of  that 
strait,  present  a  country  in  a  high  stale  of  culture.  The 
Canada  shore  is  not  less  improved  than  that  of  the  United 
Htates  ;  farm  follows  farm  upon  both  banks,  which,  with  the 
houses,  \vind-mill8,  and  vessels  on  the  strait,  afford  a  fine 
picture  of  agricultural  and  commercial  prosperity. 

'i'he  hanks  upon  the  United  States  shore,  rise  fpom  the 
M-atcr  less  abruptly  than  those  of  Canada,  except  at  the 
spring  mill,  three  miles  below  the  city  of  Detroit,  where  the 
former  rises  to  (he  height  of  twenty  o  '  thirty  feet,  appear- 
ing as  a  comparative  hill  as  seen  from  the  strait.  All  the 
rivers  and  creeks  enter  from  both  sides,  through  low, 
swampy  land  covered  with  folle  avoine,  or  wild  oats.  This 
:u]ua(ie  grain,  tl  augh  thus  named,  is  nevertheless  essentially 
(liilerent  from  either  oats  or  rice  ;  no  vegetable  that  I  have 
ever  seen,  has  a  more  beautiful  appearance  than  is  exhibited 
by  the  immense  marshes,  covered  with  the  folle  avoine  ;  it 
is  row  in  blossom,  exhaling  a  peculiarly  plea»ing  fragrance. 

Sandwich  is  a  smalltown,  though  the  seat  of  justice  in 
Essex  county,  Upper  Canada ;  it  stands  upon  the  banks  of  the 
strait,  one  and  a  half  mile  below  Detroit.  I  walked  down 
yesterday  to  the  ferry  opposite,  and  crossed  ovc .'  t«  Sani- 


OP  'ark 
;  above  its 
Gros  isle ; 
aUo  i'rom 

a\j  X  Ecop- 
irand  Tup- 
Idenly  con- 
(!  continues 
Q  its   width 

ros  isle  arc 
,  intcrsper- 
icnts  on  tlie 
corccs  and 
jore  of  that 
Iturc.  The 
'  the  United 
eh,  with  the 
iffopd  a  fine 

ty. 

se  ffora  the 
tcept  at  the 
it,  where  the 
feet,  appear- 
lit.    Ali  the 

ipough  low? 
I  oats.     This 

ss  essentially 
e  that  I  have 
1  is  exhibited 

e  avoine ;  i^ 

g  fragrance. 

of  justice  in 
banks  of the 

walked  down 

BYc  ?  t«  Sand- 


J.ET.  XV.1 


DETROIT, 


f(>5 


wich,  and  retupncd  (o  this  tUy  in  the  evening.  I  found  it  a 
village  built  principally  of  wood,  composing  a  single  street 
running  parallel  to  the  strait,  with  about  as  many  stores  and 
taverns  as  would  be  found  in  a  place  of  similar  size  in  (he 
United  Staics.  The  banks  slope  gradually  from  the  wafer, 
l!iough  immediately  above  the  town,  (h«:y  rise  abrupt,  and 
appear  considerably  higher  than  those  opposite,  upon  wliicli 
the  city  of  DetiNjit  is  built.  The  shores  of  (he  strait  on  liodi 
sides  are  cleared  of  timber  from  one  nnd  a  half  to  tlirco 
miles  from  the  water,  gi^ing  the  country  in  the  rear  of  (ho 
front  farm  houses  a  naked  appcai'anee.  The  woods,  where 
not  cut  down,  is  excei  ively  dense,  and  the  timber  large. 
The  soil,  if  any  judgment  can  be  formed  by  the  aspect  of  (he 
crops,  is  \evy  productive.  The  bank  of  (lie  sfrair  has  been 
vaunted,!  believe  correctly,  for  i(s  fine  orchards  ;  frsiit  trees,- 
apples,  pears,  peaches,  and  plumbs,  have  a  very  healiliy  ap- 
pearance. 

The  city  of  Detroit  is  exceedingly  well  situated  for  a  com- . 
mercial  port  j  the  banks  rise  gently  from  the  water,  aiford- 
ingan  easy  communication  with  the  store-houses  in  the  rity. 
Several  wharves  have  been  extended  to  considerable  dis- 
tance into  the  stream,  the  largest  and  best  of  wliieh  was 
made  by  the  officers  t**  the  United  States  troops,  for  (be  use 
of,  and  in  front  of  the  garrison.  The  streets  are  lalfl  out 
at  right  angles  to  each  other,  but  are  all  inclining  from  tiie 
banks  of  the  strait.  The  main-street  leaves  the  stiait  in 
i'ront  of  the  garrison,  but  at  the  upper  end  of  the  city  bus 
t>vo  other  parallel  streets  between  it  and  the  vliaivcs.  'i'he 
cross  streets  are  not  i>f  much  consoquence  at  jMisent,  Ir.uiog 
but  few  houses  built  upon  tiiem,  except  near  (lie  njuin-slrcet. 
Leaving  the  lower  end  of  the  city,  it  is  diiJicult  to  know 
where  it  terminates,  as  the  farm  houses  are  so  closely  uni- 
ted to  each  other.  Above  the  city,  thoii^li  the  margin  of 
the  strait  is  well  cultivated,  the  farm  houses  do  not  stand 
so  compact  as  they  do  below. 


I 


1 0(5 


.1; 


UETROIT. 


[let.   XV, 


1  have  founil  <wo  men  liepo,  from  whom  I  have  received 
much  useful  information  and  |)oli(c  (rcoJmenf,  governor  Cass 
«nd  judge  Maj%  tlie  hitler  of  whom  has  resided  at  Detroit 
forty  ^ycars,  and  possesr  perhaps,  more  eorrcet  knowled;;e 
of  its  history,  than  nn^  in  living,  (iov.  Cass  resides  on 
tlie  hanks  of  the  strait  hclow  the  {garrison.  To  these  two 
excellent  men  I  am  under  very  p;rcat  ohiigntions.  'J'he  gov- 
ernor  leaves  this  city  on  the  ifilh  to  jiieet  the  governor  of 
Ohio,  in  order  to  hold  a  treaty  with  the  Putawattamies,  ^^y^ 
andots,  Senecas,  Weas,  and  other  nations  of  Indians.* 


lA  l\. 


,■!».'■ 


*  Tills  treaty  resulted  in  llie  following  cessions  of  land,  witli 
tiic  annexed  reservnlions.  The  cessions  nre  of  great  conse- 
r|nonce  to  the  frontiers  of  01; io  find  INIichipan,  as  it  tends  to  re- 
move the  savages  lo  a  greater  distance  westward. 

"  CixciNKATi,  Oct.  15. 

"  Treaties  with  the  Indiana. — Our  correspondent  at  St.  Mary's; 
l;as  fi»rnished  us  with  the  foilowinp;  hasty  sketch  of  tlie  treaties 
conchided  with  the  Indians  by  our  commissioners.  The  treaties 
were  signed  on  the  Glh  inst.  By  these  treaties  the  United  Slater 
have  secMired  more  than  sc  en  millions  of  acies  of  land. 

"  We  learn  from  our  correspondent  that  the  Miamis  manifest^ 
ed  a  preat  deal  of  duplicity  in  their  negociallons. 

"  "fo  tlie  states  of  Ohio  and  Indiajia  tliese  acquisitions  are  ol 
immenr^e  inaportance.  In  a  few  years  these  almost  interminable 
forests  will  be  converted  into  ilourisliing  towns  and  villages,  and 
cultivated  farms;  the  silent  footsteps  of  the  savage  will  give  way 
to  ihe  resounding  of  the  axe,  the  din  of  industry,  and  the  bustle 
of  commercial  cuterpriiie. 

"  REVISION  OP  THE  TREATY  OF   1817. 

'•' yiddilional  reserves  by  the  Wyandots  at  Upper  Sandusky  j 
on  the  north  side  between  the  Cherokee  Boys  reserve  and  tlie  12 
iniles  640  >.vies,  connecting  the  twoj  and  on  east  side  of  the  15? 
miles,  55,680  .icres. 

"  To  the  Wyandots,  residing  at  Solomon's  town,  IG,COO  acres 
to  centre  at  Big  Spring,  between  Upper  Sandusky  and  Fort  Find- 
lay,  and  ]66  acres  lower  ride  Mrs.  Whitaker's  reserve  at  Lower 
Sandnskv,  reserved  for  a  ferry  or  crossing  place  for  the  Indians. 

"  To  the  Shaw  a  noes  on  the  cast  side  of  llie  former  reserve  t  » 
V/apakanetto,  12,800  acres. 

"  To  the  Shawanoes  and  Senecas  on  the  west  side  of  Lewis' 
reserve  of  7  miles,  8,960  acres  ;  all  lo  be  equally  divided  eas^t  and 
■west  the  north  half  for  the  Senecas,  and  the  south  half  for  the  Shaw- 
anoes. 


f,'i 


m 


LKT.    XV.] 


MICHIGAN. 


11): 


Kcspcctinj;  the  present  s(a(c  of  the  population  of  the  Ter- 
ritory of  Micliignn,  I  do  not  expect  to  receive  much  posi- 
itive  inforinutioii,  not  contained  in  the  census  of  1810.  Of 
the  position  of  the  settlententH,  and  the  (juantity,  quality  and 


ner  reserve  i  t 


|ffortlic§Iia>T- 


"To  the  Seneca  Indians  atljoitiing  soutli  of  iheir  reserve  of 
1317  on  each  side  Sandusky  river,  10,000  acres, 

"  Additional  Jinnuities. — To  the  Wyandots,  500  dollars;  Shaw- 
anoes  and  Senocas  of  Lewis'  town,  1000  dollars  ;  Sciiecas  on  San- 
dusky river  5oO  dollars  :  Oltawiiys,  . ,500  dollurs  ;  perpetually  lo 
bo  paid  annually.  All,  to^etlier  with  annuities  heretofore  grant- 
ed, payable  in  specie. 

"tueatvop  is  18. 

"  The  Puttawattamiescede  from  the  month  of  Tippecanoe  ri\- 
er  np  the  same  to  a  point  that  will  be  25  miles  from  the  Wabash 
on  a  direct  line  ;  thence  parallel  with  the  general  course  of  the 
Wabash  to  the  Vermillion  river,  dowa  the  same  to  the  Wabash, 
thence  down  the  Wabash  to  the  place  of  beginning  (supposed  to 
be  50  or  60  miles,)  all  their  title  south  of  the  Wabash,  for  which 
they  are  to  receive  ^^2,500  in  specie,  annually  forever,  to  be  paid 
equally  at  Detroit  and  Chicago  ;  also  annuities  heretofore  grant- 
ed to  be  paid  in  specie. 

"Grants  to  the  following  persons,  half  bloods,  James,  John, 
Isaac,  Jacob  and  Abraham  Burnet,  two  sections  of  land  each  ; 
and  to  llcbecca  and  Nancy  Burnet,  one  section  of  land  each — 
half  of  the  same  on  the  lower  side  of  the  mouth  f  Tippecanoe 
river,  ou  Wabash,  and  the  other  half  on  Flint  riv  ,r. 

"  640  acres  to  Peerish,  a  Puttawaltamie  chief,  ou  Flint  river,  at 
his  residence. 

"  640  acres  to  Mary  Chattalie,  on  Wabash,  below  the  mouth  of 
Pin6  river. 

"  The  Weas  cede  their  whole  interest  in  Ohio.  Indiana  and  Il- 
linois— Reservation  of  7  miles  square,  on  Wabash,  above  the 
mouth  of  Raccoon  creek.  The  United  States  to  pay  them  a  per- 
petual annuity  of  1 150  dollars,  which,  added  to  annuities  hereto- 
fore, makes  3000  dollars  annually,  all  payable  in  specie. 

"  The  Delawares  cede  all  their  claims  in  Indianaon  White  river. 
The  United  States  to  furnish  them  lands  to  settle  on  west  of  the 
Mississippi,  on  the  Arkansas;  jj.'iy  them  for  their  improvements 
where  they  now  live  in  120  horses,  not  to  exceed  40  dollars  in 
value  each  j  furnish  perogues  for  transportation,  provisions  fur 
their  journey,  permit  them  to  occupy  for  three  years  Hereafter 
their  farms  on  White  river,  and  to  pay  them  a  perpetual  anni:-. 
ityof4000  dollars,  which,  together  with  anuHilies  now  existing 
are  payable  in  specie — Also  to  furnish  them  with  a  blacksmith 
when  they  settle  west  of  the  3Iississippi.     They  reserve  two  and  a 


:h 


19^8 


MlollIUAUr 


[let.  xv» 


|M.,: 

■  1  ■', 
\ 


Io(!ali(y  ol*  ihe  cultivatiblo  soil*  I  have  procured  consiUernble 
document  not  h'uiiertu  inudu  puhlic.  Our  ordinary  maps  are 
deplorably  duAcient  respecting  tiic  peninsula  of  Micliigan, 
some  of  llie  luosit  important  rivers  are  slightly  marked  or 
^vholiy  omitted.  Before  proceeding  to  give  you  a  detail  of 
the  extent,  posilion,  and  respective  quality  of  the  soil,  I  will 
present  you  \«ith  the  result  of  what  I  have  learned  in  gen- 
eral, respecting  tho  geological  structure  of  tho  peninsula, 
contained  between  lakes  Michigan,  Huron,  St.  Clair,  and 
Erie,  and  the  straits  of  Erie  and  St.  Clair. 

It  is  must  probable  that  the  entire  region  above  the  Thou- 
sand islands  to  lake  Superior,  reposes  upon  a  bed  of  floetz  or 
schistic  rock,  of  various  component  parts.  I  have  already 
noticed  the  phenomena  which  uamo  to  my  knowledge,  along 
the  south  and  west  of  lake  Erie,  and  pointed  out  their  efiect 
upon  the  structure  of  the  rivers  of  that  tract  of  country. 
Beyond  the  Maumee  to  lake  Huron,  all  the  streams,  without 
exception,  which  draw  their  sources  from  the  interior  parr, 
of  the  peninsula,  are  precipitated  over  considerable  falls  be- 
fore arriving  at  their  mouths.  Tou  will  perceive  by  tho 
notes  extracted  from  Audrain's  map,'*^'  the  materials  which 
compose  the  rocks,  over  whose  ledges  these  falls  of  water 
are  thrown.    It  appears  also  that  at  the  distance  of  twenty 


half  sections  of  land  at  First  creek,above  Old  Fort  and  are  to  receive 
13,320  dollars  fur  the  liquidation  of  debts  owed  by  them  to  traders, 
&c. 

The  Miamiescede  their  interest  to  the  country  east  of  the  Wa- 
bash, south  of  a  line  from  Fort  Wayne  west  to  the  Wabash  ;  re- 
serving one  tract  of  30  miles  square  ou  the  Wabash,  besides  u 
great  many  others  of  less  magnitude.  The  United  States  to  pay 
them  $  1 5,000  per  annum,  perpetually,  in  specie. 

*  I  have  given  this  map  the  name  of  Audrain  in  the  text,  as  if 
was  from  Mr.  Audrain  I  procured  a  copy ;  but  in  justice  it  ought. 
to  be  noticed  that  the  map  was  construcfed  by  Mr.  Greely,  the 
United  States'  Surveyor  in  Michigan  Territory,  and  those  useful 
notes  were  made  upon  the  original  map  by  Mr.  Greely,  in  his  owa 
liand  writing. 


[let.  xv» 

7  maps  are 
Michigan, 
marked  oi* 
a  detail  of 
soil,  1  vrill 
acd  in  gcn- 
I  peninsuUu 
Clair,  and 

0  the  Thou- 
lof  floelzor 
ave  already 
ledge,  along 
t  their  effect 
of  country, 
ims,  without 
interior  part 
ible  falls  bc- 
jeive  by  th«» 
eriaU  ivbich 
alls  of  water 
CO  of  twenty 


I  are  to  receive 
lem  to  tradersj 

astoflhe\^a- 
VVabash  ;  re- 

jsh,  besides  a 
States  to  pay 


the  text,  as  it 
justice  it  ought 

r.  Greely,  the. 

d  those  useful 
ely,  in  his  owa 


lET..  XV.] 


MICniGAff 


19S> 


OP  twenty-five  mile.^  from  the  extreme  depreH««iun  of  (ho  val- 
ley of  St.  Clair  and  Erie,  that  thu  tabin  hind  of  Miehignri 
becomes  fiat,  and  covered  wiih  innumerable  pondit  and  inter- 
locking water  eouraes.  The  rivers  have  their  sources  upon 
this  extensive  flat,  and  flow  south-oust  into  St.  Clair  and 
Erie,  and  north-west  into  Michigan,  passing  over  an  arablo 
border  of  about  twcniy-iivc  miles  wide,  which  skirt  the  lakes 
and  straits  from  Maumcc  to  Calumet.  Some  of  the  interior 
platiuu  is  described  as  good  land,  but  (he  face  of  the  coun- 
try is  generally  too  level,  and  of  euursu  subject  to  immcrsioa 
iu  wet  seasons. 

Thu  length  of  tho  rivers  which  flow  from  this  tabic  land 
is  remarkably  equal,  and  their  banks  composcil  of  v«ry  sim- 
ilar soil,  and  covered  with  timber  of  correlative  speeies. 
Extensive  traots,  arc  open  natural  meadows  or  prairie. 

From  tho  foregoing  you  will  perceive  that  the  peninsula 
of  Michigan  is  a  vast  cape,  projected  northwards  from  tho 
elevated  region,  from  which  flow  the  Wabash,  Maumce,  and 
the  custern  streams  of  the  Illinois  river. 

In  executing  the  surveys  in  tho  Michigan  Territory,  a 
meridian  lino  has  been  drawn,  commencing  on  the  river 
Kaisin  about  five  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  continuing  from 
thence  due  north  seventy-two  miles,  from  whence  was  drawn 
another  line  due  east  fifty  two  miles,  whieh  intersects  the 
head  of  St.  Clair  river  at  Fort  Gratiot.  I  do  not  know  in 
what  manner  the  surveys  were  made,  but  this  is  their  out- 
line, as  they  stand  represented  in  the  land  ofliee  in  the  city  of 
Detroit.  Bounded  west  and  north  by  these  lines,  and  upon 
ail  other  sides  by  St.  Clair  river,  St.  Clair  lake,  Detroit 
river,  and  lake  Erie.  The  ancient  settlements  were  formed 
along  the  water  courses,  and  continue  to  be  in  most  part  the 
only  establishments  yet  made  in  the  territory. 

Tho  superficies  included  in  the  surveys,  does  not  vary 
much  from  2,500  square  miles  or  1,000,000  acres.  Some 
part  of  the  United  States  land  in  this  area  has  been  sold, 
but  the  sales  did  not  operate  to  add  much  to  the  population 


200 


MICUIQA>% 


£LBT.    3|V. 


fV'H/; 


"{fv ;' 


IC^ 


f  ;i 


?ii. 


il:^-. 


of  (he  country.  The  valuable  fractions  of  sections  were  in 
a  great  share  purchased  by  ihe  resident  inhabitants,  and  an- 
nexed to  lands  already  in  their  possession.  Though  the  soil 
is  good  in  general,  sonte  of  it  excellent,  and  i>11  parts  well 
situated  for  agrieultcre  and  commerce,  some  causes  have 
hitherto  operated  to  prevent  any  serious  emigration  to  the 
Michigan  Territory.  For  upwards  of  a  month  that  I  have 
been  travelling  between  this  city  and  Geneva,  in  the  stale  of 
New- York,  I  have  seen  hundreds  removing  to  the  west,  and 
not  one  in  fifty  with  an  intention  to  settle  in  Michigan  Terri- 
tory. By  the  census  of  1810,  the  inhabitants  then  weru 
4,702,  falling  short  of  5,000.  I  cannot  be  led  to  consider 
this  enumeration  correct,  there  were  in  all  reasonable  modes 
of  calculation,  more  than  6,000  people  in  this  territory  at 
that  pcrioU.  I  cannot  consider  the  present  number  short  ol' 
10,000.  though  since  1810,  no  increment  has  been  added  oi' 
uonsequence  to  the  mass,  except  that  of  natural  increase. 
The  city  of  Detroit  contains  at  least  1,200  people,  and  it 
does  not  include  more  than  one  eiglith  of  the  whole  body. 

The  lines  of  settlement  extend  along theriver  Raisin,  Hu- 
ron of  lake  Erie,  Detroit  river,  riviere  aux  Ecorces.  river 
Rouge,  lake  St.  Clair,  Huron  of  St.  Clair,  and  St.  Clair 
river.  Many  other  minor  streams  are  also  lined  with  set- 
tlements. 1  have  already  observed  the  great  uniformity  in 
the  quality  of  the  land.  In  no  country  in  which  I  have  trav- 
elled, are  there  to  be  seen  so  much  sameness  in  that,  and  in- 
deed in  many  other  respects.  This  monotony  does  not,  how- 
ever, extend  to  the  productions  of  the  soil,  which  are  as 
varied  as  the  climate  will  admit ;  small  grain  of  all  kin(l!» 
tliat  can  be  cultivated  north  of  lat.  ^2»,  can  be  reared  ia 
abundance.     Fruits  are  remarkably  productive. 

The  climale,  at  least  as  far  north  as  Fort  Gratiot,  is  as  tem- 
perate as  that  uf  the  western  parts  of  the  sfate  of  New-York, 
and  perhaps  more  healthy.  It  is  conceded  that  the  seasons 
are  much  more  mild  at  Detroit  than  at  BufTalo,  the  dilTer- 
enec  is  greater  than  could  bo  expected  from  the  small  differ- 


111 
h 

d. 


ii 

lij 
d| 
I'i 
ti 


'-**• 


lions  were  ill 
siDts,  and  an- 
ough  the  soil 
»U  narts  well 
causes  havu 
^ration  to  the 
th  that  I  have 
in  llie  stale  of 
the  %vest)  and 
ichigaii  TeiTi- 
its  then  were 
ed  to  considci' 
isonablo  modes 
liis  territory  at 
imher  shoi't  ol" 
been  added  ol' 
ntural  increase. 
I  people,  and  it 
whole  body, 
ver  Uaisin,  Hu- 
Eeorces.   rivei- 
,  and   St.  Clair 
9  lined  with  set- 
it  unirormityin 
iichi  havetrav- 
;  in  that,  and  in- 
y  does  not,  how- 
I,  which  are  as 
rain  of  all  kindi» 
lau  be  reared  ia 

ivc. 

iratiot,  isasttfui- 
ile  of  New-York, 
that  the  seasons* 
itriilo,  the  diCci- 
L  the  small  differ- 


LET.  3tv.] 


MICIIIGAy. 


J201 


ence  in  lulitude,  less  than  one  degree.  The  phenomenon 
may  be,  and  I  believe  it  h  produced  by  the  prevalence  of 
westerly  winds,  which  crowd  the  ice  continually  into  the 
N.  E.  angle  of  lake  Kiie. 

The  following  notijs  I  extracted  from  the  map  in  Mr,  Au-. 
drain's  office ;  they  will  aifoid  you  some  knowkdge  of  parts 
of  otir  country  hitherto  unknown. 

"  Riviere  aux  Raisins,  (Grape  river)  is  a  rapid  stream  of 
;ibout  150  miles  in  length,  and  generally  four  chains  in 
breadth.  During  the  time  of  freshets,  large  rafts  of  tiin< 
her  can 'descend  the  river  from  the  confluence  of  the  Nec- 
mecon,  a  considerable  branch,  about  2k  miles  from  lake 
Erie.  Six  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river  Raisin,  its 
rapidity  is  such  thiit  it  can  only  be  ascended  with  light  ca- 
noes ;  at  the  mouth  it  has  a  sand  bar,  which  obstructs  the 
entrance  of  vessels  drawing  more  than  two  feet  w  ater. 

The  banks  are  clothed  with  heavy  oak,  hickory,  ash;  elm, 
J inden,  yellow  wood  (^Liriodendi'on  tidqvfcra)  the  latter  an- 
iiwering  well  for  boards  ;  the  soil  is  a  black  loam." 

**  Huron  of  Erie,  can  be  ascended  150  niiies  to  a  portage 
of  about  3  miles,  into  a  stream  called  the  Grand  river,  en- 
tering into  lake  Michigan.  The  river  Huron  is  about  200 
miles  in  length  ;  course  from  the  west,  and  general  width 
four  chains  88  yards. 

Vessels  drawing  four  feet  water  can  enter  and  ascend  four 
miles.  The  land  is  generally  hilly  on  the  southern  border, 
liaving  good  timber  and  rich  soil ;  and  on  the  northern  bor- 
der extensive  prairies,  light  sandy  soil." 

«  Riviere  Rouge  is  about  two  chains  in  width,  discharging 
into  the  strait  of  Erie  about  four  miles  below  the  city  of  De- 
troit ;  it  is  navigable  for  vessels  drawing  IC  foet  water,  four 
miles  from  its  mouth  to  the  ship  yard;  thence  for  craft 
drawing  J  feet  water,  Smiles,  it  then  branches  into  conside- 
rable streams,  upon  which  the  lands  are  excellent.  The 
timber  on  the  banks  of  this  river  is  oak,  sugar  maple,  elni. 


M 


m 


If 

''■:4- 

.    .:  .  ■  \ 

.u           1    ■    ■      ' 

'■      , 

,- 

, 

W-  ^■ 

•  '   •  ' 

N-' 

f.   .'I    .    ■ 

■'•f/'i  ;■■; 
fV  ••■;  ■ 


|4    V(>^*i 


-  f* 


;i02 


MICHIGAN. 


[let.   XV. 


bass  uood,  flindenj  poplar,  ClinodemJi'on  iulipjferaj  and 
ojik.     Tlic  soil  is  a  black  loam." 

*<  Huron  of  lake  St.  Clair,  is  p;enei'all.v  about  tbrcc  chains 
(GG ^anls)  iti  withh,  anil  navi;;able  for  boats  drawing  three 
•feet  water  ten  miles,  to  the  first  branch.  'IMie  main  bninch 
interlocks  with  the  northern  branches  of  the  river  T»ouge. 
'i  he  border  of  this  river  is  covered  wiCii  exeellent  white  oak^ 
and  the  soil  is  equal  to  any  in  the  territory." 

These  notes  were  taken  by  me  from  the  orij^innl  mnp,  in 
the  surveyor's,  Mr.  Aaron  Grely*s  own  han«!  writing;.  I 
deem  tlicm  of  statistical  importance,  as  being  made  from 
actual  ol)servation  under  the  authority  of  the  United  States 
i^ovei'nmenf,  and  as  they  tend  to  establish  the  great  general 
features  of  the  rivers  of  Michigan  Territorj-. 

It  may  be  observed  as  a  curious  geological  eoineidencc, 
that  the  Michigan  peninsula  is  contrasted  with  another  pro* 
jection  of  land,  of  a  similar  general  form  and  very  nearly 
equal  extent.  The  Canadian  peninusula  is,  howeverr  more 
insulated  than  that  of  Michigan.  The  former  is  also  dis- 
tiaguishod  from  the  latter  by  some  other  peculiar  features. 
The  river  Thames  (la  riviere  a  la  Tranelie)  of  the  French 
or  Eseaasippi  of  the  savages,  rises  in  ycvy  near  the  centre  of 
the  Canadian  peninsula,  runs  to  the  south-west,  having  also 
:\!iut!ier  parallel  and  almost  equal  stream  to  the  Chcnal 
Eearte,  ilo\\i:v;  hotb  into  the  eastern  side  of  lake  St.  Clair. 

It  is  remarkable  that  these  two  streams  are  without  falli 
01*  rapids  in  all  their  course  ;  the  Thames  about  one  hundred, 
Mu]  (he  Chena!  Eearte  eighty  miles  in  length.  This  exemp- 
tion from  rapids  is  the  case,  however,  with  all  the  known 
r>(j'eains  of  tliis  part  of  Canada,  and  proves  that  its  surface 
Is  iviu' h  lower  than  that  of  the  Michigan  peninsula.  The 
soil  of  the  former,  from  all  the  concurrent  accounts  I  have 
seen  is  even  still  more  fertile  tiian  that  of  the  latter. 

Mr.  SauMiel  U.  Brown,  author  of  the  Western  Gazetteer, 
speaking  from  personal  observation,  having  been  in  general 
Harrison's  army  when  that  oflieer  pursued  general  Proctor 


LET.    XV.] 


MICIIIG.IN. 


2Q3 


up  the  TIi«aines,  stales  that,  "  The  hmd  in  (Iiis  pjvit  of  tlie 
«•  Upper  Province  is  uneommunly  feilile,  undadiniiably  cal- 
*«  culated  fui*  farms.  On  llie  livei*  there  are  extensive  hot- 
«  toms,  then  a  gentle  rise  of  beautiful  limbered  land,  to 
«  which  succeed  openings  well  calculated  for  wheat.'* 

[Mr.  Urown's  pampliletf  Troy,  181  i,  p.  f>5. 

Smith's  Gazetteer  of  tipper  Canada,  describing  the 
Thames,  observes  that,  <*  It  is  a  fine  inland  canal,  and  capa- 
**  ble  of  being  greatly  improved.  The  lands  on  its  banks 
**  are  extremely  fertile." 

Mr.  Bouchette  gives  a  richly  coloured,  but  I  am  induced 
to  believe  a  true  sketch  of  this  charming  country. 

"  Along  the  northern  part  of  the  Niagara  district  runs  a 
ridge  called  the  Queenstown  heights,  stretching  across  the 
river  Niagara,  and  away  eastward  into  (he  state  of  New- 
York;  the  altitude  of  this  range  in  any  part  of  it,  does  not 
exceed  160  yards  above  the  surface  of  the  lake,  (Ontario.) 
This  space  containing  the  Newcastle,  the  Home,  and  the  Nia- 
gara districts,  is  watered  by  a  great  number  of  streams,  bodi 
large  and  small,  that  greatly  contribute  to  its  fertility  ;  in 
the  latter  district  is  the  Welland,  formerly  called  the  Chip- 
pewa, a  beautiful  river,  flowing  through  a  remarkable  fertile 
country  for  about  forty  miles,  and  wholly  unolistructcd  by 
falls  ;  also  the  Ouse  or  Grand  river,  a  stream  of  much  great- 
er magnitude,  rising  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  towards 
lake  Huron,  and  after  winding  a  long  and  picturesque  course, 
falls  into  lake  Erie  :  across  its  mouth  there  is  a  bar,  but 
always  with  eight  feet  water  upon  it.  It  is  navigable  for 
sjnall  vessels  fiom  the  lake  many  miles  upwards,  and  for 
boats  to  a  much  greater  distance. 

»•  The  la«d  through  the  whole  of  the  last  mentioned  dis« 
U-'mt  is  uncommonly  rich  and  fertile,  with  a  considerable  por^ 
lion  of  very  flourishing  settlcmen  ts  upon  it.  From  the  river 
Ouse,  proceeding  along  the  shore  of  lake  Erie,  up  to  the 
lake  and  river  St.  Clair,  the  whole  space  is  extremely  even, 
Utilh  scarcely  a  league  of  it  but  vhat  displays  excellent  sitn- 


t} 


'ioi 


MICHIGAN. 


ft 

h  ?  ■ 


[let.   XV. 


¥:<: 


ii 


■'*,;■ 


m 


w 


lig- 


ations for  scdknienls,  and  in  spots  wlicrc  the  land  is  already 
under  lil]:i,^e  ;  finer  crops  or  uioro  (Iiriving  lurnis  arc  not  to 
be  met  witli  in  any  part  of  either  provinee. 

♦<  The  portion  of  the  western  district,  lying  hetween  lake 
Krie  and  lake  St.  Clair,  is  perphaps  the  most  delightful  of 
all  the  provinee.  '1  he  ferJility  of  (he  soil,  the  richly  diver- 
hificd  and  Inxiiriant  heauties  that  every  where  court  the 
view,  theahundant  variety  of  excellent  fish  that  teem  in  the 
rivers,  and  (ho  profusion  of  game  of  dilTerent  species  (hat 
enliven  (he  woods,  (li(^  thickets  and  the  meadows,  combine 
to  insure  a  preference  Jo  this  highly  favored  tract  for  the 
istablishnient  of  new  se((lemcn(s. 

"  F'rom  (he  Onse  to  laue  Si.  Clair,  the  space  is  occupied 
by  (he  1>ondon  and  %\  estern  dis(ricts  ;  it  is  watered  by  ma- 
ny small  streams  falling  inio  lake  Erie,  besides  (lie  river 
Chenal  Ecar(e,  and  (he  cxquisilely  pic(uresque  river 
Thames,  formerly  called  the  riviere  a  la  Franche.  The 
latter  rises  far  in  the  interior,  about  the  township  of  Bland- 
ibrd,  and  after  pursuing  a  serpent inc  course  in  a  direction 
nearly  sou(h-wes(,  discharges  itself  into  lake  St.  Clair.  It 
is  navigahle  for  vessels  full  twentv  nules  from  its  mouthy 
and  for  boats  and  canoes  nearly  up  (o  its  source,  •but  little 
less  (ban  one  hundred  miles.  The  river  Chenal  Ecarte  runs 
almost  parallel  to  the  Thames,  at  about  ten  miles  from  if, 
and  also  falls  into  Lake  8t.  Clair.  The  portions  now  dcs- 
erihed  are  (hose  only  (hat  are  more  or  less  settled  upon. 
In  the  rear  of  the  townships  are  large  tracts  of  land  stretch- 
ing far  to  the  mtrthward,  covered  with  immense  forests,  and 
lidle  known  except  (o  (he  Itidinns  ;  hat  it  has  been  ascer- 
tained (hat  (here  are  many  wide  spreading  exten-j  of  rich 
and  fertile  soil,  particularly  bordering  upon  the  south-west 
bank  of  the  Ottawa  river.  Throjjgh  these  regions,  as  yet 
unexplored  hy  civilized  man,  (here  are  many  streams,  and 
some  of  great  size  that  ilow  both  into  lake  Huron  and  into 
the  Ottawa  river  but  none  of  (hem  have  beei.  sulHciendy 
traced  (o  udmit  of  being  delineated  on  any  map.     Timber  iit 


.:3.. 


u 


TiET.    XV.] 


MICIHC.VN. 


203 


almost  every  variety  is  found  in  the  greatest  profusion ;  tlie 
oak,  beech,  walnut,  (iiickory)  nsh,  niapUs  elm,  pine,  syca- 
more, hireli,  and  many  other  sorts  are  of  peculiar  exeellenee, 
and  of  capital  dimensions.  'J'lie  climate  is  so  peculiarly  i.n- 
lubrious,  that  epidemic  diseases,  either  amongst  men  or  ca<- 
tle,  are  almost  unknown;  its  inlluence  upon  (he  fertiiily  of 
the  soil  is  more  grnerally  perceptible  than  it  is  in  Lower 
Canada,  and  supposed  to  be  congenial  to  vegetation  in  a 
much  superior  de.j»;ree.  The  winters  are  shorter,  and  not 
always  niaiked  with  si:c'h  rigor  as  in  the  latter  ;  the  dura- 
tion of  the  frost  is  always  accompanied  with  a  fine  clear  sky 
and  a  dry  atmosphere  ;  the  spring  opens,  and  the  resump- 
tion of  agricultural  labor  takes  place  from  six  weeks  to  two 
mouths  earlier  than  what  it  does  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Quebec;  the  summer  heats  rarely  prevail  to  excess,  and  lh<5 
autumns  are  usually  very  fi-iendly  (o  the  harves(s,  and  favor- 
able for  securing  ail  the  late  crops.  In  fact,  upon  so  good  a 
soil,  and  under  such  a  climate,  industry  and  an  increase  of 
population  are  only  wanting  to  render  this  colony  flourishing 
and  It  appy." 

[Bouchcltc'S  JRemarks  upon  Upper  CanudUf  p.  'i92. 

The  valley  in  which  flow  the  river  Thames  and  Chenal 
Ecarte,  in  Canada,  occupies  the  same  reialive  part  of  the 
peninsula,  in  which  it  exists,  as  does  the  table  land  of  (hat 
of  Michigan,  giving  great  advantage  to  the  former,  in 
point  of  soil  and  climate  no  particular  difference  can  be  per- 
ceived between  the  opposing  banks  of  the  straits  of  Erie  and 
St.  Chiir.  All  the  Canadian,  anJ  most  of  the  Michigan  pe- 
ninsula, arc  south  ot  the  for(y-fif(h  degree  of  north  latitude  ; 
considerable  difference  in  the  seasons  exists  between  the 
northern  and  southern  parts  ;  spring  is  much  earlier,  and 
autumn  moreproiiacted  at  Detroit,  Sandwich, and  Amher^t- 
burg,  than  at  York  and  Fort  Gratiot. 

Taken  as  an  entire  whole,  1  very  much  doubt  if  any  part 
of  the  earth  does  greatly  exceed  the  St.  Lawrence  valley, 
tn  the  naturiU  beneflts  which,  judiciously  cultivated,  secures 

P2 


I'  "^WF 
■>ft 

r-"i    .. 

•  -■■.■;   )      t  ' 
M'  "■■■ 


Iff" 

I'll. 


M:  m!*;' 


'v.  •»'■ 


m^- 


Z'^'-' 


i206 


M£CI11GAX. 


[let.    XV. 


tlic  l)n{)|Hncss,  eoiuiurt,  and  in{1iil;j;cncies  olMiuman  life.  Tlic 
Kummers  are  (u  ti  proverb  (lelit;Iiirul»  (he  \>in(i'rs  are  cold, 
>vhen  coiiipared  M'idi  (hose  of  even  our  middle  states,  but  a 
€a;iadian  winter  if  eohl,  is  uniform  to  a  degree  ineonceiva« 
hie,  to  most  of  those  Mho  are  acquainted  with  the  ehangeablc 
seasons  below  the  forty-second  degree  of  north  latitude.  In 
the  meaning  of  the  term  Canadian  winter,  1  do  not  simply 
intend  those  of  Canada  only  ;  it  applies  with  equal  force  to 
nearly,  if  not  all  the  countries  drained  by  the  St.  Lawrence,, 
of  course  includes  immense  tracts  comprised  within  the  ter- 
I'itorial  limits  of  the  United  States. 

I  am  now  upon  the  eve  of  returning  to  the  city  of  Xew- 
Yox'k,  of  retracing  my  steps,  and  of  bidding,  perhnps  an 
eternal  adieu  in  a  few  dsiys  to  a  country,  where  the  pain., 
anxiety,  and  vicissitudes  of  travelling,  did  not  prevent  me 
from  beholding  and  admiring  the  face  of  nature  in  her  rich- 
est garb.  I  have  endeavored  to  convey  to  the  friend  of  my 
lieart  the  impressions  1  have  received.  You  know  how  far  I 
have  succeeded.  I  now  turn  **  ft  longijig  lingering  look*'  to- 
wards  home,  and  the  dearest  associations  of  life  ,*  I  hope  in 
]ess  than  one  month  to  again  embrace  those  friends,  whom, 
amid  even  the  wonders  of  Niagara,  or  the  storms  of  Erie  I 
could  not  forget.  I  hope  to  leave  this  city  to-morrow,  in  the 
mean  lime, 

Adi(;u, 


lET.    XV f. 


BUFFALO. 


'207 


LETTER  XVI. 


Jiiiffalo,  Jlugust  31, 1818. 
Bbar  Sir, 

As  I  informed  you  in  mylasf,  I  left  Detroit  on  (lie.  23tl 
inst.  and  have  arrived  here  yesterday.  I  took  my  passage 
in  a  lake  schooner.  The  steaiii-hoat  AValk-in-lhc- water  was 
iuipatiently  expected  at  Detroit,  but  did  not  arrive  until  after 
1  left  that  city  ;  I  did  not  see  her,  but  learned  at  the  town  of 
Erie  that  she  was  gone  up  and  performed  well,  though  drav/- 
ing  rather  too  much  water  to  suit  entirely  the  navigation  of 
lake  Erie.  Slie  stranded  in  about  seven  feet  water  on  Erie 
bar.  A  more  fatal  fault  in  the  construction  of  any  vessel 
to  be  used  on  lake  Erie  could  not  be  easily  committed,  as 
that  of  too  great  draught  of  water.  The  harbors  are  few, 
narrow,  and  didicult  to  enter,  and  the  intermediate  shores 
dangerous  in  the  extreme.  With  the  exception  of  ihe  Nia- 
gn!'a  river  below  Bird  island,  Put-in-bay  in  the  southern  Bass 
island,  and  Detroit  river,  there  exists  no  harbor  in  lake 
Erie  that  can  be  safely  entered  in  a  swelling  sea,  with  a  ves- 
sel drawing  seven  feet  water.  To  the  number  of  vessels 
which  are  actively  employed,  I  am  convinced  there  are  ma- 
ny more  wrecked  on  lake  Erie,  than  on  the  coast  of  the 
United  States,  dangerous  as  is  some  parts  of  that  coast. 
Dunkirk  is  an  open  harbor,  but  for  suitable  vessels  can  be, 
except  Put- in-bay  and  Detroit  river,  most  easily  entered  of 
any  in  the  lake  ;  and  next  to  Dunkirk  in  facility  of  entrance, 
are  Maumee  and  Sandusky.  The  bays  are  indeed  generally 
more  easy  of  approach  than  are  the  rivers. 

I  was  much  pleased  to  fmd  that  the  schooner  in  which  I 
performed  my  passage,  was  to  take  Maumee  bay  in  its 
course,  as  that  and  Erie  were  the  only  places  of  particular 
importance,  along  the  United  States  shore  of  lake  Eiie^ 
which  I  had  trai^isi  ted  going  up. 


i^  I 


n 


1 ' 

*  in 


-m" 


.i<t 


Ml 

* 

V 

,      r 

» 

0 

i^O* 


liLFtALO. 


[LKT.    XYi, 


Oiii*  vcssil  roll  down  Delroit  iivm-  wUh  a  line  liglil  brt'c/e* 
which  died  uMsiy  in  the  cviMiiii^  and  k'l't  !i»  J,>*«nj;  <iuii"t  most 
pai'L  ui'  (he  night ;  hut  on  (he  inorninj;  of  (he  2HU  a  li;^ht 
N.  AV.  >Yind  sprung  nj),  >\liieh  increasing  with  (he  i'i:<»e  of  (hu 
iiun,  carried  us  linel.v  ulon;j;.  1  had  a  view,  (hon;>h  u(  a  dis 
(ancC)  ul*  (!ie  nion(h  oC  (he  rivers  Huron  and  It-aisin)  (he 
iiouses  oi'  (i)t>  inhahi(untii  »(andin]^  like  \Nlii(e  spots  upon  (he 
disk  of  (he  liorizon.  Leaving  (ho  western  Sister  a  small 
distance  to  (he  cast,  aliout  b  o'ch)ck  J*.  M.  our  little  hai  U 
was  safelj^  at  anchor  ;n  jMauniee  hay. 

'I he  whole  coast  from  Anihcrstbnrg  (o  jMaumce  is  an  un- 
devia(ing  ila(.     Approaching;  Maunice  hay,  I  sought  on  all 
sides  for  some  eminence,  or   some  dih(ant   range  of  hills,  to 
break  (he  monotony  of  (he  perspective,  none  sucJi  appeared  ; 
one  dead  unybrmily,  one  narrow  line  of  woods,  or  (he  endless* 
expanse  of  water  marked  the  horizon.     IMaumce    hay    is 
formed  wi(h  some  resemblance  (o  (hat  of  Sandusky,  though 
the  former  is  neither  so  wide  or   long  as  the  latter.     'J'hc 
iUaumee  river  after  tumbling  over  a  ledge  of  rocks  near  Fort 
Meigs,  gains  the  level  of  the  great  alluvial  plain,  noticed  in 
my  last,  over  which  it  njeanders  a  few  niiles,  e\p-mds  (o  two 
or  (hree  miles  wide,  and  opens  into  (he  extreme  south-west 
angle  of  lake  Erie.     An    island  in  the  form  of  a  crescent, 
about  (hree-four(hs  of  a  mile  long,  lies  very  nearly  mid\>ay 
between  the  two  ex(erior  capes  of  the  bay,   of  course  two 
channels  lead  into  this  harbor.     Behind  (he  crescent  island, 
\essels  iind  safe  shelter  and  excellent  anchorage.     I  had  no 
means  to  measure  the  exact  distance  from  (he  island  to  (he 
opposing  capes,  but  would  judge  about  three  miles,  and  very 
neaily  a  similar  distance  to  a  part  of  the  shore  to  (he  east  of 
the  mou(h  of  Maumee  river.     Like  uuist  of  the  harbors  of 
Kric,  Maumee  has  seven  feet  water  on  the  bars  east  and  west 
of  the  crescent  Island.     Our  vessel  passid  into  (he  bay  (h« 
west  channel,  close  upon  the  point  of  (he  island,      d  anchor- 
ed in  the  l/ayjornied  by  its  curve. 


LET.    XVI.] 


M  VUMF.I: 


:^uy 


I  iHnded  upon  (he  etTsrC))(,  and  found  it  a  lunfMi/ut  sattd 
bar,  alioul  one  liuiidird  and  iW'ty  yanh  \\U\c  in  its  hiosKk'st 
pact,  and  eovercd  uiiii  dxuirl'  bnbiicii  oC  diUViTiit  kiiul^t* 
Xoai'dic  middle,  and  eonsrquenllv  \>idosl  |ur(,  Uic  Ivo  sidc^ 
of  ilic  island  ai-e  liii^lier  than  1Iil>  ccnlcr,  loiivin^  liio  lalirr  a 
pond  oi'  va((*r,  in  Nvliicli  are  grouiii;;  rushes,  and  other 
aqualiu  plants.  Mdny  \ears  pasl  1  vidiessed  ijie  siiiiie 
iealurc  in  the  btrnelure  of  (hf  islands  between  Ne\v-()i- 
leans  and  Mobile  biiv.  I  have  in  laet  loiiiid  an  asloiii.>hin}; 
iTseniblitnce  between  the  a])pearanee  of  initeli  of  the  eoasf. 
of  (he  31cxiean  g;uif,  and  the  shores  1'  lOi  ie,  fioni  Cleveland 
to  Detroit.  Cieseent  island  no  doubt,  like  (he  points  vhieli 
enelose  Sandusky  ba},  has  been  formed  bj  the  mee(inj;of 
t wo  eiiirenls  ;  it  is  now  an  admirable  natnrisl  nto!«.>  to  se- 
eiire  the  mouth  of  3Jaumee,  an<l  forms  l\)v  the  depdi  of  wa- 
ter, one  of  the  best  harbors  in  this  lake  of  slornss. 

As  J  did  not  attempt '  to  penetrate  (he  eoun(i;v.  I  rrmahied 
upon  (he  island  and  in  the  ship,  whilst  our  eii|)(ain  went  up 
tile  Maumee  ri>er  to  transact  iiis  aflairs,  and  on  his  retorii 
left  (he  bi»v  on  (he  20(li.  AVe  ssiiled  nearlv  esist.  having;  (he 
eoast  of  Maumee  (o  Handmsk.v  ba^  on  our  ri{^h(,  and  (he 
listers  and  llass  islands  (o  otir  left  ;  eleaiiiis;  (hcr  narrow y 
between  (he  southern  Jiass  and  a  er.jje  of  (he  SaudasUv  pe- 
ninsula*  we  veered  (o  (he  south-east  between  Cunniiiiihiinrs 


n 


island  and  the  eastern  extremity  of  (he  peninsula,  iiiid  held 
upon  (bat  course  un(il  opposi(e  (he  mouth  of  SjukIusKv  h;\yi, 
wc  then  ehangtd  (a  a  li((lc  north  of  east,  and  ha>in;j;  a  line 
steady  south-west  breeze,  we  hove  to  on  the  LTdi  vibotit  fieon, 
opposite  the  mouth  of  Ashtabula  ri\er.  Ifome  of  oar  j>Jts- 
sengers,  beside  nsy  self,  went  on  shore;  liJile  is  bete  to  b.; 
seen;  Ashtabula  is  a  small  and  nnimportaiit  river,  risinj; 
about  thirty  miles  from  the  lake,  in  (he  state  oT  Chio.  giving; 
name  to  the  norti  east  county  of  that  state.  ^  « ssels  of  fjvo 
feet  draught  of  wa^ei*  can  enter  Ashtabula  (wo  or  three 
miles.  Only  a  couple  of  farm  houses  can  Le  seen  jtt  i(« 
mouth,  hills   appear  i ising  ahnost   fiota  the  margin  of  (l.« 


21 U 


Kit  11:;. 


LET.    XV|« 


*      :'■'''■ 

j-.'v 

!•■'•;  r      ' 

y ' 'X          ; 

■'■"o 

V 
J 

?.f   :  -i 


lake  ;  here  iiuk'cd  is  one  ol'  (lie  narrowest  paits  of  <hc  lake 
Erie  nlluviul  hoiHlci*.  Aslilabiilu  enters  (lie  lake  ol)liquelv» 
ll»o  rivri'  running;  (o  Hie  north- west,  leaving  a  high  sandy 
point  projecting  l)ctween  the  river  and  hike. 

Not  having  any  particuhir  ohject  ol*  detention,  our  ves- 
sei  left  Ashtahnhi  at  2  o'clock  P.  M.  and  being  detained  by 
a  calm,  di<l  not  reach  the  Jiarhor  of  Erie  hcfore  about  sun- 
rise on  tlie  2S(h.  I  hasted  on  siiorc,  as  I  had  long  desired 
to  see  that  phice. 

The  town  of  Erie,  formerly  I'resque  isle,  stands  nt  l-2«» 
7'  N.  hit.  r>«»  7'  W.  long,  from  AVashington  city.  The 
hank  upon  wiiich  the  town  va  built,  rests  upon  an  iinniensc 
schistose  mass  of  r*oek,  surmounted  by  a  stratum  of  elay, 
rises  in  bluft*  and  broken  abruptness  to  the  heigiit  of  oO  or 
40  feet,  from  whence  it  spreads  into  a  level  plain,  with  no 
great  inclination  in  any  direction.  A  small  drain  which 
traverses  the  town,  has  cut  a  deep  r:;vine,  which,  near  the 
bay,  exposes  the  solid  rock.  The  main  street  runs  at  nearly 
riglit  angles  to  the  bay  shore,  a  little  !N.  E.  of  tho  ravine. 
So  much  sameness  prevails  in  all  small  towns,  that  little 
description  sullices  to  those  who  have  se^n  but  a  few  of  such 
places.  Erie,  like  almost  all  other  villa;>;es,  is  composed  in 
great  part  by  one  main  street  built  along  tlie  principal  road  ; 
^jirie  has,  however,  some  cross  streets,  upon  which  are  good 
substantial  buildings.  The  town  has  a  very  neat  appearance, 
many  of  the  houses  are  elegant,  with  trees  planted  in  front. 
I  have  seen  very  few  places  of  its  extent,  which  exhibited  so 
much  of  the  air  of  a  commercial  depot.  It  is  the  seat  of 
ju.'jtiee  for  Erie  county,  has  a  good  substantial  court-house 
and  its  attendant  a  Jail,  many  good  stores  and  taverns, 
blacksmith^s,  hattei-'s,  shoe-maker's,  and  taylor's  shops. 

The  hay  or  harbor  of  Eric  is  formed  by  the  shore,  and  a 
long,  narrow^  low,  sandy  isthmus,  which  projects  from  it  two 
miles  south-west  from  where  the  village  now  stands.  To- 
wards its  termination  the  isthmus  inclines  a  little  towards  the 
main  shore,  giving  an  elliptical  form  to  the  bay.     Tiie  bar 


%^ 


LFVr.    XVI. 

9f  <lic  lake 
oliliquclv, 
igh   snmly 

,  OUP  vcs- 
JctaintMj  hy 

about  sun- 
uitg  desired 

nda  at  ilf 

iJv.      'J'hc 

n  inmiensc 

I  in  of  chyf 

lit   of  30  or 

m,   villi  no 

rain  >vliifh 

h)  near  the 

ris  at  nearly 

(ho  ravine. 

,  that  iittlu 

lew  of  such 

eoinposed  in 

leipal  roati  ; 

ich  are  good 

appearance, 

ud  in  front. 

exhil)itcd  so 

I  the  seat  of 

court-house 

nd  taverns, 

shops. 

[tore,  and  a 

from  it  two 

lands.     To- 

towards  tlic 

'.    TJie  bav 


LET.    XVI. 


ETIIE. 


211 


runs  out  from  (ho  is(hmus  some  distance  above  the  pointy  and 
has  barely  7  feet  water.  Tlic  channel  is  v»ry  windin;^,  tiiilil 
about  hair  a  mile  below  (he  (own,  where  rlie  water  derpenn 
to  (w«»nly  feet  or  more,  Ko  winds,  oxfept  Miose  from  (he 
north-east  could  aHVet  ships  at  anchor  in  this  bay.  am;l  tfven 
from  that  quarter  the  swell  would  be  bioken  on  the  bar. 
On  all  sides  it  is  effectually  land  locked.  Vbo  isdiiiiiiH  is 
not  more  than  four  or  five  f«et  above  the  waler.  is  overgrown 
widi  cedar  trees,  and  cranberry  bushes. 

In  a   cove  of  the   isthmus  now   lie  the  hulks  of  Peny*H 
squadron,  and  his  captured  Dri(ish  ships.     TheTiawrencc  and 
Niagara   now    lie  very   quietly    beside  the  J)etroit,  Queen 
Charlotte,  and  Lady  I'rcvost.     You  are  no  doubt  acquainted 
with  the  fact,  that  the  strongest  part   of  (he  squadron  was 
prepared  a(  Erie,    which  produced   this  great  national    vic- 
tory ;  the  Lawrence  and  Niagara  were  both  built  here,  and 
were  taken  over  (he  bar  by  a  curious  contrivance.     The 
cap(ain  of  the  schooner  in  which  1  came  IVou)  Detroit,   wai» 
then  (1813)  a  shipwright,  and  assis^ted  to  transport  these  ves- 
sels into  the  lake,  which,  as  he  described  the  means  and  pro- 
cess to   me,  were  the  following:     Two  large  flats  or  si'ows 
fifty  feet  long,  ten  wide,  and  eight  deep  were  prepared,    laid 
along  side  one  of  the  vessels,  iiiled  with  water,  and  fastened 
to  each  other  and  to  the  vessel  by  large  beams  of  hewn  tim- 
ber run  through  the  port  holes  ;    thrn  the  water  pumped 
from  the  scows,  which,  as  they  became  empty,  buoyed  up  the 
vessel,  and  the  whole  machine  rendered  capable  of  passing 
the  bar.     By  good  fortune,  the  British  either  could  not,  or 
they  neglected  to  oppose  this  operation,  and  lost  the  naval 
superiority  on  lake  Erie.     The  same  fleet  wliieli  conquered 
Barclay's  squadron,  carried  general  Harrison's  army  te  the 
city  of  Detroit,  produced  the  re-conquest  of  Michigan,  and 
the  chastisement  on  the  Thames  of  the  sanguinary  and  fe- 
rocious Proctor. 

A  few  hourK  mabled  mc  to  sec  Erie  and  its  environs,  and 
io  leave  mc  at  leisure  to  desire  in  be  again  on  my  way  to- 


:&■ 


■  I 


212 


ALU  A  NY. 


[l.BT.   xni. 


vanJs  ilulfalo,  wUW-U  wnn  (liu  case,  a(  al»oii(  nn  hour  bcloio 
Kiiii-M't  uf  ilic  sainr  (lii^  »<;  airriMl.  Aolliin;;  MorHi  nolice 
inl('rvi>nii);j;iiii(ii  ilio  niornin«;  oT  tlic  .lOlh,  (Sniiila^y)  I  |>;Ki(ll}r 
j'oiiiiil  iii^srlt'iil  .Ml*.  Isaat;  rviiilM'*^  (avvrn  in  niiU'alo. 

Oiii'  ol*  Hic  lii'sl  picet's  ol'  nrwH  \\liicli  it«cIiimI  inu  on  my 
nn-ivaK  was.  Ilial  (he  (alilc  rock  al  Aia^^ura  had  fallen  a  «lay 
or  I  wo  iK'Tore.  'I'his  wa^  a  |M'n|\>('(in;^  HJicirot'  bla(t'  roi-k  on 
the  Canada  khhs  whiir  cniioiis  xiniturs  vent  (o  viow  the 
falls.  'I'hu  cci'lainl^  of  iis  !stsihili(>'  hud  hoen  duubti'd  fot- 
mnna  (ime  pasl«  nut  uilhoiit  fuundalion  it  appears.  Fortti- 
nait'yil  fell  whilst  no  persons  were  n|)on  it,  for  if  8ueh  hud 
heen  the  ease,  some  amiable  human  hein^-s  Mould  have  been 
plun|i;ed  to  swii'l  deslruedon.  1  will  lie  detained  lore  a  few 
da^s,  perhaps  three  or  four.  1  intend  to  i-eiurn  h^'  (ho  Cher- 
ry \  allej-  route.     Yon  will  hear  from  mo  aj;ain  at  Albany. 

Adieu. 


M' 


I'M')  ■ 

m 


.1  a: 

1  V 

t  -I 

i  i. 


LETTER  XV  ir. 


DiiAU  Siu, 

AFriiii'a  lonp:  Journey  of  twenty-one  dajs,  1  arrived 
here  the  day  before  yesterday  fioni  IJulfalo  ',  I  left  that 
town  on  tlio  27tli  ult.  and  came  by  the  route  of  Butavia, 
Canandaijsiua,  (Seneva,  Auburn,  Cazenovia,  Cherry  Yaliey, 
and  Seiieneetady.  Over  this  tract  as  far  as  Geneva  I  had 
been  befurc,  but  from  that  place  to  Sehencetady,  the  inter- 


I.KT.    XVII. j 


CASAMUl.liLA, 


^IJ 


fticiliate  ooiinlry  was  now  (o  inc.     Milh  I'cm'wcil  |iJc;isur(»  T 
i'o-viHitf<l'Caii;iiKl:ii.i;;ir.i,   ap;aiii  rrvicwcil   i\\U   wxiiiMHiIiiinry 
prod ii<'( ion  ofu  few  years  pasl.   Wlirn  |)a^sil^};  tliaf  vi!lji;;('  on 
tuy  way  fo  dm  weshvani,  I  had  a  Iftirr  I'lorn  ;;<»>('i'nof  Cliii- 
(<mHu  iMi*.  (iidcon  <ii'an,^;cM',   who   \>a.s  at    thai  (into  ahsriil. 
At  <he  tinio  of  my  rrhirn  I   was  iiioro   roi-dinale  ;  I  (oiiikI 
Mr.  Gi*an;^er,  and  irccivi'd  IVoin  (hat  excrlh'iit  man  a  irecp- 
lion   (hat,  (o   »   sd'an-^ci',    was    sinccirly   f^raliTyiMf;.     Mv. 
Cii'an|;c'i*'s  <dcj;'an(   mansion  stands  npon  the  hi;;hc«l  part  ol' 
the  phiin,  n|ioii  wiiii-h  (.'anandai;;'ua  is  hiiilt,  and  adds  ton- 
sidct'ahly  to  the  (h'conition  of  that  unctpiaMcd  \iila;j;i*.     'i'hiii 
tixpressiun  yon  may  say  is  extravagant  ;  it  is  not,  ho>\eviM*,  in- 
aceuratc.     Viewed  in   all  res^icets,    f  am  persn-.ided  that  no 
vilhigc  in  the   Llnited  Stales   can  eor)ipare  in  the  beauty,  va-i 
I'iety,   and  taste  of  its   ediliees.     The    qenlie  sloj)e  oi'    the 
|j;round  upon  which  it  is  creeted   eontrlhalc!)  to  ^i\e  t'nll  eiU-et 
(o   the  perspeetive.     'J'he   main  sueet    is  wide,    with  pa\ed 
side  walks,  and  phmted  with  ti-ces.     3Iany  of  the  houses  aiu 
seated  at   some  eonsiderahh^  (iistance  IVom   the  Htreet,  with 
wide,  well    shaded  siiie  walks   in  front.     To  mv  ev«',   this 
mode  of  eonstrnetin{^  dwellin,^;s  in  towns,  villaj^es,  and  e\en 
in  cities,  has  a  very  pleasiu;;  a|>peuranue.     It  gives  an  air  of 
comfort  and  quiet — that  must  always  eonsiitnic  much  of  the 
satisfaction  we  feel,  when  viewing  the  dwellings  of  nr.m. 
That  of  Mr.  (^ranger,  splendid  as  it  is,  gains  another  inter- 
est, more  gratif>ing  than  the  mere  admiration  of  arehileet- 
nral  magnificeneo  ;  the  generous  politeness  of  its  o\>ncr,  and 
the  friendly  deportment  of  his  family.     Princely  wealth,  is 
liere  combined  with  the  warmest  feelings  of  ho<i>|)italily.     It 
is  such  men,  who  render  the  possessnon  of  the  gifts  of  for- 
tune in  their  hamU  a  public  beneiit. 

1  left  Geneva  on  the  afternoon  of  the  10th,  and  proceeded 
down  the  outlet  of  the  Seneca  lake.  A  water  eoinmunica- 
lion  M  illi  lake  Ontario  now  exists  by  this  route.  At  ^Vater- 
loo. five  miles  from  Geneva,  the  Seneca  outlet  is  obstructed 
by  falls,  or  rather  rapids,  past  w hicli  locks  have  been  eon- 


9.^         'is..'  r     ■'' 


"?! 


fll«  ;■ 


■'  \  ■■ir 


11'  ■'  ■ 


\^. 


m. 


'     »■-! 


^ 


214 


CAAMNUAIGUA. 


[let.   XVI f. 


slructcd.  lielow  (he  falls,  Uio  Seneca  outlet  runs  north-east 
ten  miles,  and  joins  Cayuga  outlet  at  the  lower  extremity  of 
Cayuga  lake.  The  united  stream  winds  in  a  northern  direc- 
tion live  miles,  receives  IVom  the  west  the  Canandaigua  out- 
let.'^ At  the  junction  of  those  streams  if.  is  intended  to  pass 
with  tlie  grand  canal.  The  country  near  the  outlet,  between 
Cieneva  and  Cayuga,  is  not  so  uniformly  level  as  I  expected 
to  find  ;  there  is,  however,  no  striking  objects  of  much  inter- 
est.    The  road  crosses  the  outlet  of  the  falls,  and  proceeds 

*  Facts  arc  daily  transpiring  which  tend  to  exhibit  the  rapid 
ifnprovement  of  this  part  of  the  state  of  New-York.  The 
Canandaigua  outlet,  is  like  that  of  Seneca,  precipitated  over 
ledges  syi  rock.  The  following  extract  is  interesting,  but  by  no 
means  siilKcienlly  explicit.  !t  is  much  to  be  desired,  that  those 
who  write  on  statistical  subjects,  would  be  more  particular  in  de- 
scribing local  objects.  It  will  be  seen  by  referring  to  my  letter 
from  Canandaigua,  that  a  considerable  stream  is  formed  by  the 
junction  of  iMud  creek  with  the  outlet  of  Canandaigua  lake,  this 
stream  is  now  rendered  of  more  importance  by  the  removal,  or 
rathe)-  obviating  an  obstruction  in  its  bed,  in  the  township  of 
Galen,  Seneca  county. 

FUOM  THE  WATERLOO  GAZETTE. 

"NEW  LOCK  NAVIGATION. 

*•'  J/r.  Leavenworth — It  is  with  extreme  satisfaction,  that 
through  the  medium  of  yonr  press,  I  can  inform  the  public,  tlmt 
on  the  I'Jtii  ult.  the  first  heavy  laden  boat  passed  the  Lock,  lately 
constructed  on  the  Clyde,  near  the  new  milling  establishment  of 
the  Messrs.  De  Zojig,  at  the  village  of  Clyde,  in  the  township  ol 
Galen.  This  valuable  improvement  completes  an  excellent  Dur- 
Imm  boat  navigation,  through  perhaps  the  most  fertile  sections  of 
Seneca  and  Ontario  coimtics,  for  upwards  of  forty  miles  west  from 
the  Seneca  river ;  and  creates  an  eligible  scite  for  all  kinds  of 
hydraulic  operations,  at  a  point  where  it  has  hitherto  been  con- 
sidered utterly  impracticable  to  raise  a  suflicient  head  of  water. 

"  Besides,  it  is  not  the  least  pleasing  reflection,  that  in  the 
course  of  a  very  few  years,  this  stream  may  become  a  most  im- 
portant fink  in  the  chain  of  our  western  inland  state  navigation. 

"  Injustice  to  an  undertaking  of  such  magnitude  and  utility,  I 
am  prouil  to  acknowledge  the  enterprize  of  the  Messrs.  De 
7jong,  advised  and  directed  by  the  skill  of  that  able  architect,  antl 
mill-wrisriit,  Mv.  Tames  Valentine.  May  success  reward  their  ef- 
forts.    ^  -'A  SENECA  FAUMER." 


lET,    XVII.^ 


FALL   CREEK. 


2k3 


thence  east  to  Cayuga  briJ^o  and  village.  Tins  bridge  is, 
perhaps,  the  longest  in  the  United  Slates,  situated  at  any  con- 
siderable distance  IVom  the  sea  board  :  it  exceeds  a  mile  bv 
a  small  fraction^  is  formed  of  wood,  upon  a  frame  ix;sting 
upon  the  bottom  of  the  lake.  The  outlets  of  all  the 
chain  of  lakes,  of  which  Cayuga  is  one,  have  great  sameness. 
Cayuga  is  the  longest,  and  no  doubt  contains  more  water 
than  any  of  the  others  ^  Seneca  approaches  nearest  to  it  in 
magnitude. 

Fall  creek  rises  in  the  township  of  Homer,  in  Courtland 
county,  flows  south  into  Virgil,  turns  to  the  west  and  enters 
Dryden,  in  Tompkins  county,  receives  a  large  brancii  from 
Loekc,  in  Cayuga,  then  assumes  a  south-west  course  to 
Ithaca^  in  Ulysses,  where  it  receives  a  number  of  other 
streams,  and  turning  abruptly  to  the  north,  su(!denly  ex- 
pands into  Cayuga  lake.  The  sources  of  the  Fall  creek  arc 
very  considerably  higher  than  the  lake  into  which  their  wa- 
^rs  are  discharged  ^^  tiiis  is  tlic  case  also^  with  all  the  tribu- 


*  I  have  inserted  the  followinjy  extract,  as  it  illustrates  the 
structure  of  the  country,  and  opens  to  the  curious  tjaveller  a 
source  of  instruction  and  amusenicut.  The  sceneiy  of  our 
country  has  been  too  much  neglected.  Many  very  interestinjir 
objects  in  the  best  settled  parts  of  the  United  States,  are  scarce- 
ly known  beyond  the  neighbourhood  where  they  exist. 

"  Ithaca,  (A*.  F.)  June  16. 
«  OUR  CATARACT. 

"  The  numerous  and  magnificent  cataracts  in  our  country, 
have  been  themes  of  wonder  and  doiiijht,  and  are  considered  as 
a  peculiar  feature  in  the  pliysiolo},'y  of  the  western  part  of  this 
slide.  Niagara  has  lonp  been  viewed  as  the  greatest  natural 
wonder  of  the  world — and  for  subiiuiily  and  grandem*  is  doubt- 
less u'uri  vailed. 

"  The  falls  of  the  Genesee,  the  Cohoes,  the  current  on  the 
Black  river,  have  all  been  noticed  by  the  traveller  and  journalist, 
liut  the  falls  near  this  village,  which  next  to  the  Niagara,  do  not 
yield  in  point  of  subiiinity,  beauty,  and  extent,  to  any  in  the 
stale,  are  scarcely  ktiown  out  of  theii"  vicinity.  Fall  creek,  on 
whicli  our  falls  are  situaled,  rises  in  the  north  east  corner  of  this 
eounly,  and,  after  a  course  of  twenty  miles,  empties  into  the  hoad 


m 

if 

i^ '.''•'•■ 

j''     ■  i"' 

.1v;!" 

i'---^''.r". 

i^ 

■'^'.h'A' 

i;lt' 

,        ^ 

{'■■  ^ 

' 

vi'f -• 

iif'-'} 

'  <  IV 'M. 


I: 


rv 


f:^i 


•ij-- 


21C 


CATCOA. 


[l^ET.    XTII. 


Uvy  wattTs  oi*  liie  oMipr  Iakc»  (•oir(i,(;;uous  to  Cayuga.  The 
irlaJivc  size  «f  StMicca  and  Cayuga  lakes  is  not  niaiei'ially 
«!ifit;i'cnf,  <Jje  forimM*  is  lliir(y-thrce  and  a  halt' miles  lorij^, 
lV<mi  Sulubria  to  Geneva,  the  latter  thirty-five  and  a  halfV 
fi'oiM  the  iiioulii  ol'  Fall  eirek  to  that  of  Seneca  outlet  ;  the 
widest  part  of  eaeh  of  these  lakes  is  opposite  I{oniuIus,  in 
Seneca  eounfy,  and  is  nearly  equal,  three  miles.  Both 
lakers  diuiiuiitih  very  gradually  towards  thtSir  respective  ex- 
Ireniilies.  The  advantage  eftfiese  lakes  to  the  agrieulUire 
and  eouvnierccof  the  eountry  in  which  they  are  situated  is 
iueale-uluble  ;  and  when  their  outlets   are  improved  in   sueli 


of  Cayiigalalve.  When  it  arrives  witliin  three  mifes  of  llie  Cay- 
uga lake,  the  ciiairt  of  fiills  cornniciicos,  and  contniues  with  lit- 
tle JMleiriiptiou,  about  one  mile  and  a  hall",  wjien  the  water  is  pre- 
r-ipitJtted  over  the  last  and  grandest  Ihll,  to  a  level  with  the  lake. 
The  whole  descent  of  water  in  this  distance,  has  been  estimated 
Mihre?.  hundred  iiKcl  fifty  feet.  The  view  of  the  precipice  from 
the  bridge  at  the  foot  of  the  falls  is  the  most  grand  and  pictu- 
resque I  ever  beheld.  The  water  falling  nearly  perpendicular, 
from  the  height  of  about  ninei  1/ feet-^lhe  steep  and  craggy  banks 
toweling  to  an  almost  equal  lieight  above,  and  crowned  with 
everirioens,  give  a  wild  and  romantic  effect  to  the  scenery,  une- 
({ualied  by  any  thing  that  can  be  imagined.  After  clambering 
up  the  rocky  banks,  another  fall  presents  itseif  to  view,  of  about 
.half  the  height — and  ten  or  fifteen  rods  above  this,  the  stream 
])itches  about  ibrty  feet,  presenting  the  form  of  a  half  circle,  in 
its  descent  over  the  broken  and  craggy  rocks,  tumbling  and  foam- 
ing wil1»  inconceivable  velocity." 

^'  Ithaca,  Sept.  30. 
''  Census  of  Itliacn. — A  fiicnd  has  favored  us  with  a  census  of 
this  vilage  taken  during  the  past  week.  By  this  it  appears,  that 
the  villiigo  contains  a  j)opulation  of  611  persons,  of  which  313 
are  males,  and  298  fem.tles — 186  are  undiT  the  age  often  years  ; 
1 4  3  bolwecn  ten  and  twenty;  26<J  between  20  and  45 ;  and  tliir- 
iee.n  ouhj  over  forty-five.  The  buildings  are  226  in  number,  com- 
prising a<-,liurch  and  court-house,  77  dwelling-houses,  4  inns,  i9 
.stores,  (2  vacant)  7  groceries,  28  mechanic's  shops,  8  ollices — 
and  oul-honses  to  com[)lete  the  estimate." 

This  is  the  clearest  and  most  satisfactory,  of  all  the  recent 
«Miumerations  of  the  poj)ulation  of  the  villages  in  vvost  New- 
^'ork,  that  I  liavc  been  able  to  procure. 


LET.    XTII. 


bET.   XVII.^  SUNBCA   AND  OSWEGO   IIIVBRS. 


21: 


a  manner  as  to  admit  an  uninterrupted  communication  with 
Seneca  river,  and  ultimately  with  the  grand  canal,  the  whole 
will  present  a  picture  of  convenience  of  intercourse^  that 
may  challenge  an  equal  in  any  part  of  this  earth,  so  far  re- 
moved from  a  sea  citust.  And  as  if  nature  intended  to  lav> 
ish  the  richest  and  most  essential  of  her  gifts  upon  this  fa- 
vored region,  salt  and  gypsum  abound.  It  >vould  in  fact  be 
a  tedious  and  useless  task,  to  enumerate  a  small  part  of  the 
various  advantages  possessed  by  the  inhabitants  of  this  sin- 
gular country.  I  must  draw  your  attention  to  some  facts, 
I'especting  the  geology  of  the  region  watered  by  the  Seneca 
and  Oswego  rivers.  The  peculiar  features  of  the  former 
stream,  will  best  appear  from  inspection  upon  a  gocd  map. 
You  will  perceive  that  it  is  formed  in  most  part  by  the  out- 
Jets  which  we  h'we  been  noticing,  and  that  its  general  course 
is  from  west  to  eust,  at  right  angles  to  these  outlets  and  their 
parent  lakes.  The  lakes  themselves  occupy  the  base  of  very 
deep  vallies.  On  this  latter  circumstance  I  had,  until  this 
period,  very  erroneous  opinions.  I  had  conceived  that 
the  spaces  between  the  lakes  were  plains,  or  at  least  very 
littJc  elevated  above  the  surface  of  the  water  in  the  lakes: 
I  now  find  that  so  far  from  being  plains,  those  intervals  are 
elevated  to  an  astonishing  height,  from  which  the  streams 
rush  with  an  impetuosity  in  proportion  to  their  rapid  de^ 
scent. 

Independent  of  the  long  ridges  which  rise  between  the 
lakes,  another  of  more  elevation  winds  between  the  waters 
of  Susquehanna  river,  and  the  streams  which  flow  northward 
towards  lake  Ontario.  In  reality  the  latter  ridge  is  the 
spine  of  tliis  country,  from  which  the  former  diverge  like  the 
ribs  of  an  animals.  The  descent  from  the  parent  ridge  is 
very  gradual  to  the  southward,  but  to  the  northward  is 
abrupt.*  How  far  the  peculiar  features  of  the  intermediate 
t?ountry  will  contribute  to  facilitate  or  impede  the  intended 


Soe  page  136,  note  upon  Internal  Improvpmcnts. 


■f  y 


218 


AVBURN. 


[let.    XVII. 


«Cil; 


tvatcr  communication  between  Susquehanna  river  and  Sene- 
ca lake,  1  am  not  prepared  to  decide. 

I  stopped  on  the  morning  of  the  11th  at  Auburn.  This 
village  has  for  many  reasons  become  an  object  of  considera- 
ble attention.  It  stands  upon  the  outlel  of  Owasco  lake,  in 
^he  township  of  Aurelius  in  Seneca  county,  upon  a  bottom 
or  level  piece  of  ground.  The  village  of  Anburn  is  more 
recent  than  cither  Geneva  or  Canandaigua,  and  in  point  of 
population,  1  would  suppose  exceeds  the  former  p1ace.=*<= 
The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Auburn  seems^  to  be  well  cul- 
tivated. The  houses  in  the  village  are  many  of  them  well^ 
and  some  expensively  built ;  many  good  taverns  and  stores, 
are  interspersed  amongst  the  other  buildings. 

The  circumstance  which  contributes  most  to  render  Au- 
burn an  object  of  attention,  is  that  of  its  being  the  site  of 
the  second  penitentiary  erected  within  the  state  of  Ncw- 


'^  Juhurn,  October  7 . 

*  "  The  village  of  Auburn  contains  2047  souls — 64 1  males,  and 
423  females — 466  males,  and  443  females,  under  the  age  of  eight- 
een— free  blacks,  35  males,  and  29  females — slaves  8  males,  and 
2  females.  Whole  number  of  families  294.  One  Presbyterian 
church,  one  Episcopal  church,  and  a  house  of  public  worship  for 
the  Methodists,  a  court-house,  a  county  clerk's  office,  and  state 
prison.  211  dwelling'-houses,  12  offices  23  stores,  2  market- 
houses,  16  groceries,  74  mechanic's  shops,  10  mills,  6  stills,  and 
164  out-houses,  making  an  aggregate  of  525  buildings. 

"  Among  the  130  labourers  on  the  state  prison,  75  are  suppos- 
ed to  be  transient  residents.* 

"  It  is  wortliy-of  remark,  that  among  a  population  of  2047, 
two  persons /rtiily  were  confined  to  their  beds. 

"  This  village  contained,  in  April,  1817,  a  population  of  1506, 
increase  ih  17  months,  541." 

The  fqregoing  census  is  another  instance  of  the  want  of  pre- 
cision inlthe  most  necessary  details.  I  cannot  avoid  expressing 
a  hoj>e,  that  as  public  attention  seems  now  turned  upon  such  sub- 
jects, that  more  perspicuity  will  be  used  than  is  now  ft-equently 
the  casei  the  true  beijefits  of  such  publications  must  be  lost,  ia 
proportion  as  the  subject-matter  is  unconnected,  or  inconclusive. 

,  *  We  pnfesifme  it  will  be  understood,  that  the  state  prisonci's  arc  not  number 
':fd  in  our  census. 


XBT.   XVII.] 


SKEX£4TEt%S. 


919 


ation  of  2047, 
ilation  of  1506, 


York.  I  went,  (ogcUicr  with  some  odicr  travellers,  to  see 
(his  house  of  punishment,  and  found  it  a  lari;e  oblong  build- 
li^,  enclosed  within  a  strong;  sione  wall.  WeAvere  conduct- 
ed over  the  building  by  the  keejicr.  Every  necessary  atten- 
tion appears  to  bo  paid  to  the  safeguard  and  health  of  the 
convicts.  I  have  always  considered  that  the  be^i  lessons 
that  the  United  States  ever  gave  to  the  world,  was  upon  the 
subject  of  crimes  and  punishments. 

Between  Auburn  and  the  outlet  of  Skeneatelcs  lake,  the 
country  continued  to  present  no  very  striking  changes  of 
scenery,  from  that  between  Geneva  and  Auburn.  At  the 
village  of  Skeneateles,  the  outlet  leaves  the  lake,  and  con- 
tinues to  flow  northward  about  fifteen  miles,  then  falls  into 
Seneca  river.  After  crossing  the  outlet  I  turned  southward 
up  the  lake.  The  Skeneateles  is  in  form  similar  to  those  of 
Seneca  and  Cayuga,  but  of  much  less  extent  than  either  of 
the  latter,  being  fifteen  miies  in  length,  with  a  medial  width 
of  less  than  one  mile. 

The  space  between  Owasco  and  Skeneateles  rises  rapidly 
from  each  lake,  to  a  ridge  of  at  least  four  hundred  feet  high* 
mostly  covered  with  an  trmous  forest ;  some  farms  are 
.seen,  but  the  greatest  pari  of  the  surface  is  yet  in  woods. 
East  of  the  Skeneafeles  the  country  is  more  improved,  but 
also  presents  an  immense  aud  very  much  inclined  plane, 
rising  gradually  from  the  water.  The  road  winds  along 
this  slope,  about  half  way  from  the  lake  to  the  apex  of  the 
iiills  ;  the  farms  have  a  curious  aspect  when  viewed  either 
from  above  or  below  the  road.  The  soil  is  good,  but  very 
Ktony,  and  in  many  places  must  be  inconvenient  to  cultivate, 
from  the  very  great  steepness  of  its  surface.  The  timber  is 
composed  of  hemlock,  sugar  tree,  elm,  several  species  of 
hickory,  and  oak.  The  whole  country  is  well  supplied  with 
excellent  spring  water. 

The   lower  half  of  Skeneateles  lake    lies  in   Onondago 
county,  and  the  higher  moity  forms  the  demarkation  he- 


rs arc  not  number 


111  •■(■!•  r' 

fte- 


V' 


220 


CAZEiNOVlA. 


[let.  XVII. 


twccn  (Ijc  (owusltij)  of  ScmproDious;  in  Seneca,  and  SpaC- 
Ibnl,  in  Onondago  county. 

I  remained  (he  night  of  tlie  ll(h  neai*  the  head  of  Skcnc- 
atelcs,  in  SpaflTord,  and  on  Ihe  morning  of  the  l:^th  set  out, 
crossing  the  country  towards  Otiseo  lake.  No  roads  art- 
yet  formnd  in  this  part  of  Onondago  except  the  common 
country  roads.  I  traversed  (he  ridge  between  the  Jakes, 
and  found  it  elevated  to  an  astonishing  height*  when 
contrasted  with  its  representation  upon  a  map.  Farms  ehe- 
fjuer  the  hill  sides  in  their  steepest  parts,  and  spread  along 
the  hottomS)  in  every  direction.  The  settlements  are  less 
frequent,  and  have  the  appearance  of  being  much  more  re- 
cently established,  than  those  to  the  northward  near  the 
great  western  turnpike.  After  clambering  the  Skeneateles 
and  another  very  high  and  steep  ridge,  I  found  myself  upon 
the  Skeneateles  turnpike  road  about  two  mijes  above  Otisco 
lake.  I  found  the  turnpike  leading  eastward  through  the 
south  parts  of  Onondago  and  Madison  counties.  The  coun- 
try improved  at  every  step,  though  continuing  hilly  and  bro- 
ken. The  weather  was  dark  and  gloomy.  I  felt  weary, 
and  for  the  first  time  I  was  seriously  indisposed  since  my 
leaving  New-York.  I  got  to  my  lodgings,  near  tl'e  church 
of  Cazenovia  a  little  before  sun-set,  having  travelled  on  foot 
over  a  very  rough  country  more  than  thirty  miles. 

S'  nt.  13th.  I  found  myself  considerably  refreshed  and 
I'cnewed  my  journey  eastward.  The  road  passes  along  the 
dividing  ridge  between  the  head  water's  of  the  Chenango 
branch  of  Susquehanna,  and  the  Chittinengo  river  flowing 
north  into  the  Oneida  lake. 

At  Cazenovia  church,*  the  character  of  the  country  i%  es- 

*  Strangers  from  the  soutliern  and  western  states  are  not  un- 
frequently  embarrassed  when  travelling  in  the  state  of  New- 
York,  and  to  ttie  eastward  of  that  state,  by  the  common  custom 
of  naming  the  villages  from  the  townships  in  which  they  are 
situated.  This  is  the  case  witii  Cazenovia.  I  did  not  personal- 
ly visit  the  villace  of  that  name,  but  passed  tjirough  the  southern 
part  of  the  township.     Tlic  cusloiu  of  publishing  the  progressive 


lET.  XVII.] 


Ill  MILTON— B ROOK^I  ELO. 


22 1 


sonriaHy  diff'eicnt  from  <Iiat  >vcs(wan]  Chrougli  which  I  had 
been  (ravelling  Ihe  ihrcc  preceding  da>s.  The  regular  and 
almost  artificial  aspect  of  the  hiu^  and  lakes  from  Geneva 
to  Otiscolakc,  gradually  yielded  to  a  more  irregular  though 
iitill  broken  country.  With  the  excepfion  of  some  valliesj 
Avhieh  I  crossed  at  nearly  right  angles,  I  found  no  level 
country  between  Skeneateles  and  this  city.  The  many  flats, 
lie  upon  the  head  waters  of  the  Chenango,  but  are  mere  bot- 
toms between  surrounding  hills;')*'  the  soil  every  where  fer* 
tile,  and  in  many  places  well  improved. 

Advancing  eastward  through  Hamilton  and  Brookfield, 
forming  the  south-east  angle  of  Madison  county,  the  face  of 
the  country  becomes  extremely  hilly,  rocky  and  generally  of 
recefnt  settlementr  I  had  travelled  through  no  part  of  the 
state  of  New-York,  where  the  hand  of  man  had  made  so 
little  change  in  the  primitive  rudeness  of  nature.  The  road 
in  this  quarter  crosses  the  sources  of  Chenango  and  Una- 
dilia  rivers ;  the  latter  forming  the  boundary  between  the 
southeastern  part  of  Madison,  and  the  northwestern  of  Otsc^ 

population  of  our  new  settlements  is  laudable,  but  editors  of 
j>ublic  prints  ought  to  he  careful  to  procure  correct  data  on  that 
subject.  I  have  in  this  treatise  appended  as  notes,  as  many  of 
these  enumerations  as  have  met  my  eye  relating  to  places  ujwn, 
or  near  the  line  of  my  route. 

«  Cazenovia.— The  village  of  Cazenovia,  in  Madison  county, 
New- York,  was  first  seWled  in  May  1793.— In  1806,  it  had  212 
inhabitants— in  1810,  440  inhabitants— and  it  now  contains 
709  souls.— It  has  three  churches,  several  manufactories,  and 
all  the  appendages  of  a  thriving  village." 

*  While  the  above  notes  were  in  the  hands  of  my  printer,  I  was 
told  that  a  valley  existed,  out  of  which  the  waters  of  the  Che- 
nango flowed  south,  and  those  of  Oneida  north,  without  any  ele- 
vated intervening  ground  between  the  sources  of  these  streams. 
If  this  information  is  correct,  it  is  of  great  importance,  and  may 
ere  long  lead  to  Ihe  formation  of  another  link  m  our  ulterior 
communication.  A  minute  and  skillful  examination  of  tlie  m- 
terlocutory  branches  of  other  streams,  with  those  of  tlie  Susque- 
hanna, is  really  an  object  of  great  import  in  the  adjustment  of 
some  of  the  most  serious  questions  in  our  internal  pohcy. 


i 

M\  t   ^ 


m 


^i^ 


%22 


CUEItRt   TlltET. 


[let.  XUf, 


go  county,  l^ie  road  keepini^  so  near  a  dividing  lidgc,  pass* 
es,  1  am  inclined  to  believp)  the  least  attractive  parts  oi'  Ot 
sego,  as  from  every  iofurraation  I  received,  the  average  im- 
provement in  tliis  county  would  very  much  exceed  what 
-would  result  from  an  estimate  founded  upon  the  part  over 
Mhich  I  travelled. 

Rising  one  hill  after  another,  I  found  myself  at  ahout  four 
miles  west  of  Cherry  Valley,  where  I  spent  the  night,  and 
about  two  hours  before  day  on  the  l^th,  resumed  my  journey. 
During  my  whole  tour,  this  was  the  only  instance  in  which 
I  travelled  in  the  night ;  the  moon  shone  very  clear,  and  ci- 
ther from  the  elevation  of  the  country  or  the  advance  of  tho 
season,  the  air  was  keen  and  sharp,  with  a  white  frost.     I 
walked  on  and  passed  Cherry  Valley  before  day.   1  regretted 
<he  circumstance,  but  my  mind  became  daily  more  anxious 
to  regain  my  home.     I  could  by  the  clear  moonlight  perceive 
the  general  aspect  of  the  place.     The  village  is  seated  be- 
tween the  base  'i)f  a  high  and  very  steep  hill,  ami  a  smalt 
creek,  the  source  of  a  considerable  stream,  from  the  name 
ef  which,  that  of  the  I'illage  is  derived.    The  hill,  or  rather 
mountain,  rises  east  of  the  village,  and  is  a  part  of  the  same 
chain  which  forms  the  Little  Falls  in  the  Mohawk  river.  Seen 
by  day  light,  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  the  vicinity  of  Cherry 
Valley  would  hav<^  a  wild  and  romantic  appearance ;  to  my 
eye  it  presented  tbat  contrast  every  where  found  in  New- 
York,  in  the  fowns  and  villages  of  ancient  date;  the  lew 
Dutch  built  mansion  and  the  stately  modern  edifice;  and  al< 
so  like  almost  all  towns  laid  out  by  the  original  settlers  of 
this  state,  the  streets  follow  the  inflections  of  the  roads.    In 
opposition  to  common  opinion,  I  have  been  led  to  consider 
the  right  angled  mode  of  laying  out  cities  as  inconvenient  and 
unnatural,  where  neither  (he  varieties  of  the  ground  or  fa- 
cility of  intercourse  with  contiguous  places  are  consulted. 

The  road  towards  Albany  leaves  Cherry  Valley,  winding 
up  the  steep  ascent  of  the  mountain,  for  two  miles  before  it 
attuins  the  summit  level.    Da^'  light  began  to  appear  over  tUfi 


4  ..  > 


LET.  XUi, 

lidge,  pass- 
)ai(s  oi'  Ot 
verpge  sm- 
xcced  what 
le  part  over 

t  ahout  four 
anight,  and 
my  journey, 
ice  in  which 
lear,  p.nd  ei- 
vance  of  Iho 
i(c  frost.     I 
I  regretird 
lore  anxious 
ight  perceive 
is  seated  be- 
and  a  small 
bro  the  name 
nil,  or  rather 
of  the  sanit; 
k  river.  Seen 
iiy  of  Cherry 
■a nee  ;  to  my 
und  in  New- 
ate;  the  low 
ifieej  and  al- 
ii settlers  of 
le  roads.    In 
d  (o  consider 
onvenient  and 
ground  or  fa- 
consulted, 
lley,  winding 
liles  before  it 
pcav  over  Ike 


LET.  XVIl.j  HltLS  AND  MOUNTAINS. 


223 


verge  of  the  higliest  peaks,  before  I  gained  the  extreme 
height,  and  before  reaching  the  opposite  slope,  the  sun  had 
risen  over  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk.  I'he  morning  was 
remarkably  clear,  and  gave  to  the  perspective  all  its  extent. 
The  richly  euliivated  vale  lay  before  me,  scattered  peaks  of 
the  Cherry  valley  mountain  extended  alpng  my  right,  termi- 
nated by  the  blue  apex  of  the  Catsbergs,  on  my  left  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  arose  the  broken  fragments  of  the  chain 
through  which  the  Mohawk  breaks  at  the  Little  Falls.  Far 
distant  upon  the  disk  of  the  horizon,  arose  the  elevated  hills 
of  Montgomery  county,  between  the  Mobawk  and  Sacoodago 
rivers.  To  the  eastward  towards  Schtucctady,  was  spread 
an  endless  variety  of  hill  and  dale;  fields,  meadows,  orchards, 
farm-houses,  and  copses  of  wood,  varied  to  i\l most  infinity* 
by  the  charming  irregularity  of  its  features,  £  gazed  upon 
this  truly  expansive  prospeet,  and  pronounced  it  by  far  the 
finest  landscape  I  had  ever  seen.  There  was  an  extent  and 
striking  contrast  of  parts,  that  rendered  the  whole  a  pictur« 
that  must  attract  the  entire  attention  of  every  beholder.  The 
southern  extremity  of  Herkimer  and  the  southwest  angle  of 
Montgomery  are  the  points  where  the  waters  of  the  Susque- 
hanna make  the  nearest  approach  to  those  of  the  Mohawk. 
In  the  townships  of  Litchfield  and  Columbia,  in  the  south- 
west angle  of  Herkimer,  the  sources  of  the  Unadilla  river 
rise  within  eight  miles  of  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk  at  the 
German  Flats.  In  the  townships  of  Columbia  and  Warren, 
are  also  the  extreme  north  sources  of  t4ie  main  braUv^h  of 
the  Susquehanna  river,  which  rise  within  less  than  ten  miles 
of  the  Mohawk  at  the  Little  Falls.  The  chain  of  mountains 
which  passes  Cherry  Valley,  and  as  I  have  observed  forms  the 
Little  Falls,  leaves  Otsego  county  in  the  township  of  Spring- 
iield,  and  enters  Herkimer  county  dividing  the  township  of 
Warren  from  that  of  Danube. 

I  have  observed  in  my  Emigrant's  Guide,  page  190,  that 
hills  and  mountains  are  not  only  specifically  but  generically 
^^istinct.    It  is  commonly  considered  that  mountains  and  hillc 


T- 


^4f 


J11L:.S  ami  MOVNTAINS,  {LKT.   Xt H. 


l-;>'^'i 


[ri^.^ 


III       .■  '»• 

Vr  V,  • 


^l'"i 


1 

t-    • 

'( 

/  1 

I? 

, 
(  1 

•#?' 

1 

^ 

1 

1 

are  mere  relative  trruis,  but  f lie  pIiiIosoi)li;)r  of  sucli  nn  ujiiii- 
ion  is  not  founded  in  fact.  In  Ihe  United  States  instances 
arc  numerous  >Yhere  the  eliains  of  liills  and  mountains  pass 
each  other  at  a  great  diversity  of  inclination.  I  have  al- 
ready pointed  out  the  remarkahlo  chain  of  hills  which  sepa- 
rate the  waters  of  St.  Lawrenee  from  those  of  the  Ohio  val- 
ley. You  will  perceive,  that  the  same  ridge  Vrhioh  winds 
along  the  south  shore  of  lake  Erie»  continues  through  the 
state  of  New-York,  by  a:i  inflected  line.  This  ridge  leaves 
the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  in  the  north-east  part  of  Erie 
county,  and  following  nearly  the  general  course  of  lake  Erie, 
and  within  fi've  or  six  miles  of  the  shore  of  that  lake,  winds 
through  Chatauque  into  Cattaraugus  county ;  then  turn^i 
south-east  about  twenty  miles,  reaches  within  ten  miles  of  the 
bank  of  Allegany  river,  at  the  mouth  of  Little  Valley  ereck> 
Turning  to  the  north-east,  through  the  residue  of  Cattarau- 
gus, the  ridge  enters  Allegany  connty  ;  upon  t^e  west  border 
of  the  latter  county  it  assumes  a  south-east  direction,  be- 
tween the  waters  of  the  Genesee  and  Allegany  rivers,  enters 
Pennsylvania  in  Potter  county,  through  which  it  curves,  and 
again  enters  the  state  of  New-York,  in  the  south-west  angle 
of  Steuben  county.  It  then  pursues  a  north-west  course, 
again  enters  Alleg^.ny  county,  turning  by  an  elliptical  curve 
returns'  into  Steuben  county  near  Arkport,  and  following  a 
Dorlhrcast  direction  enters  Ontario  county  in  the  township  of 
Springwater,  but  curves  rapidly  again  into  Steuben  county, 
and  windiijg  through  the  latter  to  the  south-east,  enters  Tioga 
county  discharging  to  the  south-west  the  creeks  of  the  Conhoc- 
too  branch  of  the  Susquehanna,  and  to  the  north-east  streams 
flowing  into  Caniindaigun,  Crooked,  and  Seneca  lakes.  'Wind- 
ing along  the  northern  border  of  Tioga  county,  through  the 
townships  of  Catherine,  Cayuta,  Danby,  and  Caroline,  at- 
tains the  north-east  extremity  of  the  county,  and  turns  to  the 
north,  forming  the  east  border  of  Tompkins,  and  the  south- 
east of  Cayuga,  reaches  the  Iwjad  of  Skeneateles  lake,  in  the 


h.\ 


3.KT.    XVlI.j 


uivkhs  and  mountains, 


225 


' 


noi'th-wcst  unglc  nl*  Courlland  count)' ;  from  (he  Inltcr  pincr 
f  lie  ridge  assumes  a  course  ^as(-nor(h -east  (o  (lie  villBgc  ot* 
Argosy  in  Madison  county,  ^vliere  it  attains  its  extreme  north 
point.  From  Argos  the  course  of  the  ridge  is  neurl)'  cast, 
to  its  intersection  with  the  prolongation  of  the  Catsbcrg^y 
near  the  village  of  Cherry  Valley.  Uninterrupted  by  the 
Catsbergs  this  remarkable  ridge  continues  down  the  Mo- 
hawk river,  and  is  gr;ulually  lost  between  Schenectady  and. 
Albany.  The  Schoharie  river  is  the  only  stream  which 
actually  crosses  the  ridge  i:i  all  its  length. 

It  is  really  an  object  worthy  of  great  attention,  the  uni- 
form character  of  this  singular  spine  south  of  lake  Erie  ; 
Avhore  dividing  the  Mississippi  waters  from  those  of  St. 
Lawrence  river ;  and  where  separating  the  numerous  brnnch- 
cs  of  the  Susquehanna  from  those  of  the  Mohawk,  its  fea- 
tures have  a  striking  similitude.  Sloping  imperceptibly  to 
the  south,  and  falling  abruptly  to  the  north,  is  the  peculiar 
trait  in  the  natural  history  of  this  ridge,  which  will  have  the 
greatest  iuiluence  in  the  operations  of  human  improvement. 
It  may  be  observed  a'so  as  not  tlic  least  wonderful  trait  of 
this  ridge,  that  it  forms  a  limit  between  that  part  of  the  con- 
tinent of  North  America,  remarkable  for  the  magnitude 
and  abundance  of  its  lakes,  and  that  part  as  remarkable  ior 
the  almost  total  want  of  lakes. 

The  Mohawk  river  flows  along  the  eastern  part  of  tlic 
ridge  y/e  are  noticing,  at  a  medium  distance,  above  Schoha- 
rie river,  of  from  ten  to  twenty  miles.  The  natural  struc- 
ture of  the  Mohawk  is  little  less  peculiar  than  the  ridge  it-^ 
self.  Occupying  the  narrow  vale  of  two  exhausted  lakes, 
this  stream  rises  in  the  secondary  region  west  of  the  granit- 
ic ridges,  which  form  the  nucleous  of  the  Allegany  moun- 
tains, with  its  sources  so  nearly  poised,  as  to  leave  the  wa- 
ters at  liberty  to  flow  either  towards  the  Hudson  or  St.  Law- 
rence. Flowing  from  this  table  land  with  a  very  uniform 
current^   between  perfectly  alluvial   banks,   for  thirty- five 


1 

W! 

IF 

m 

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w 

r 

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(-1, . 


i  -f'] 


228 


IIIVERS    AND    MOfNTVlXS.  [LCr.    XVII. 


iiiilcH,  (lie  Mohawk  iiutU  iu  flriit  coiiMidt'iable  obH(rup(ion, 
lj^  inlersucling  tbe  Catiibi'igH  ut  the  place  now  chIIhI  Oid 
liiKlu  FuIIm.  llci-c  ibu  stiruin  puursuver  a  ledge  of  pi-imi- 
live  rockHt  and  enters  a  region  wliieb,  in  soil,  timber  and 
geological  s(rue(ure»  diiferit  wry  essential!}^  IVom  the  eoun- 
tvy  west  oT  the  Cal^bergs ;  the  stieaui,  however,  again  Uowh 
with  a  wvy  equable  eurrent  about  nixfy  miles,  to  the  Co- 
hoes  Falls,  over  which  its  waters  are  literally  plunged  into 
the  Atlantic  (ides.  You  will  perceive  (hat  the  elevation  ol' 
Ihe  summit  level  of  <he  Mohawk,  soudi  of  (he  village  of 
liome,  following  the  report  of  (he  canal  commisHioners,  page 
88,  is  above  tide  water  in  the  Hudson  rivci*,  near'lVoy,  with- 
in a  small  fraction  of  41  i)  feet.  Of  this  depression  132.85 
feet,  including  the  Lillle  Falls,  are  found  between  Kome  and 
Schoharie  creek,  and  280  feet  between  (he  la((ei*  sd'eani  and 
the  level  of  Hudson  river,  below  the  head  of  (ide  wa(er. 

The  range  of  (he  Ca(sbei'gs  being  in  some  measure  an 
anomaly  in  our  geography,  has  given  rise  (o  considerable 
ambiguity  in  our  maps,  and  are  not  stricdy  correct  on  any 
representation  with  which  I  am  acquainted.  The  late  ex- 
cellent, and  much  to  be  lamented  John  H.  Eddy,  left  that 
jiart  of  his  map  of  the  state  cf  Xew-York  unfinished  at  his 
death.  I  was  employed  by  Mr.  Thomas  Eddy,  (u  ske(ch 
these  mountains,  which  1  did,  following  the  best  information 
I  could  procure^  I  found  the  Damascus  mountain,  in  Wayne 
county,  Pennsylvania,  niarked  upon  Mr.  Eddy's  map  ;  but 
10  the  cast  of  (he  Cochecton  Falls,  in  the  Delaware,  the 
map  was  a  blank,  as  respects  the  very  distinctive  chain 
vvhieli  forms  those  falls.  1  sketched  the  mountain  ridge 
uliich  winds  from  the  Cotheciion  Fall,  through  Susquehan- 
na and  Uls(er,  to  the  borders  of  Greene  county,  in  the 
stale  of  ]\'ew-York,  and  which,  in  the  latter  county,  rise« 
into  the  remarkable  Catsbergs,  >vhose  conie  summits  have 
hofinc  an  aspect,  seen  from  the  Hudson  river.  The  center 
of  Greene  county  is  formed  by  a  curve  of  this  chain,  out  of 
which  flow  the  sources  of  (he  Schoharie.     Viewing  a  map 


LCT.   XVII.j  UIVER8    AND    MOUNTAIN!!. 


227 


cl;vo  chain 


'I 


of  (liiH  part  of  (he  state  of  New-Yoik,  it  Mould  appear  that 
(he  souruen  of  the   Schohuric  ought  to  flow   into  the  Pupae* 
ton  branch  of  the  Delaware  river ;    but  after  purHuing  u 
iiorth-W('8t  (lireetiou,  >vilhin  the  curve  of  tlie  iitountains,  (ho 
various   branches  of  Schoharie   unite   in    the  towjtship  of 
AVindham,   and  entering  Ihe  southern   angle  of  Sehohuriu 
county,  pierces  the  Catsbergs,  and  assuming  a  northerly 
course,  crosses  Schoharie  and  part  of  Montgomery  eoun 
ties,   falls  into  the   MohaMk  river  opposite  Tripe*s  hill.- 
The  orij^in  and  course  of  (he    Schoharie  river,  very  re- 
markably  exemplify    the    Ii((lo   inAuenee    of   the    moun- 
tains  of    the   United    Sta(fs     upon  the   direction    of    the 
streams.      No   part   of  the  valley  of  the   Schoharie  is  less 
than   286  feet,    and    i(s   sources   are    2,800  or  GOOD   feet 
above  tide  water  in  Hudson  river.    The  country  watered  by 
this  ^^mall  but  beautiful  river,  below  its  passage  through  thu 
Catsbergs,  is  amongst  the  most  charming  regions  of  the 
United  Sta(ci.     I  passed  through  (he  townships  of  Canajo- 
hario  and  Charlestown,  in  Montgomery,  and  Duanesburg 
and  Princeton,  in   'chenectady  county,  and  found  the  country 
on   both  sides  of  the  road   well  cultivated,  and  extremely 
pie.  sing  to  the  eye.     If  any  part  of  (his  region  deserves  a 
preference  in  soil,  variety  of  site,  and  general  improvement^ 
it  is  that  near  (he  Schoharie  river. 

Entering  Schenec(ady  county,  the  country  insensibly  dete- 
riorates both  in  soil  and  cultivation,  and  contrary  to  what 
might  be  expected,  the  approach  to  Albany  is  over  a  tract  of 
land,  in  great  part  in  a  state  of  nature,  covered  with  a  for- 
est of  evergreen  trees,  growing  in  a  loose,  sundy  soil.  \oi- 
mun*s  Kill  rises  in  Schenectady  county,  and  ilowing  south- 
east falls  into  the  Hudson  river  below  Albany.  The  country 
watered  by  this  creek  is  mostly  broken,  rocky,  and  along  the 
stream  often  precipitous,  giving  to  the  traveller  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  fine  region  along  the  Mohawk. 

Drenched  by  a  heavy  rain  I  arrived  in  Albany,  Tuesday, 
Sept.  15th,  131  days  from  my  departure  from  that  city.     I 


m 


v)&^ 


228  ALHANl'.  [let.   XVII, 

haTc  now,  sCrieily  speaking,  closed  my  <oiir  ;  the  remaining 
part  of  the  distance  I  have  to  pass  over  in  order  to  return 
home,,  is  too  well  known  to  you  to  render  any  farther  ob- 
servations necessary.  You  will  see  me  in  New-York  in  a 
few  days.  I  expect  to  re  main  in  this  city  three  or  four  days, 
in  the  moan  time 

Adieu. 


'■k 


^'^i"^ 


M 


ADDENDA. 


NO.  I. 


EXTRACTS  FROM  BOUCHETTE'S  CANADA. 


"  IN  forming  the  plan  of  government  for  Canada,  the  general 
principles  of  tire  English  constitution  were  introduced,  wherever 
it  was  practicable :  in  the  Upper  Province  no  impediments  to 
this  course  of  proceeding  were  met  withj  but  in  the  Lower  one 
some  small  deviations  from  them  were  found  necessary,  in  order 
to  reconcile  it  to  the  genius  of  a  people  so  long  accustomed  to  a 
different  regime.     The  civil  department  is  administered  by  a  go- 
vernor, who  is  generally  a  military  officer  and  commander  of  the 
forces,  a  lieutenant  governor,  an  executive  council,  a  legislative 
council,  and  a  house  of  assembly,  or  the  representatives  of  the 
people.     The  governor  and  lieutenant  governor  naturally  exer- 
cise their  authority  under  the  royal  commission.  The  members  of 
the  executive  council,  amounting  to  seventeen,  derive  their  appoint- 
ment from  the  king,  and  this  body  exercises  a  direction  over  the  con- 
cerns of  the  province,  nearly  similar  to  that  of  the  privy  (  ouncil 
in  the  affairs  of  England.     The  legislative  council,  by  llic  act  of 
the  constitution,  consists  of  fifteen  members,  (aUhough  at  present 
tliat  number  is  increased,)  all  of  whom  are  appoitited  by  man- 
damus from  the  king,  and  may  be  termed  the  second  estate  of  the 
province;  and,  with  the  third  branch  or  house  of  assembly,  forms 
tlie  provincial  parliament.     The  governor  is  invested  with  power 
to  prorogue,  and  in  the  exercise  of  his  own  di,^cretion,  to  dissolve 


ii 


BOUCIIETTE's  CANADA. 


^ADDENDA  NO.  f . 

the  parliament ;  to  give  the  royal  assent  or  refusal  to  bills  passed 
by  it,  Of  to  reserve  them  in  case  of  doubt  or  difficulty,  until  his 
majesty's  pleasure  be  known  thereon.     Such  acts  as  receive  the 
governor's  assent  are  usually  put  in  unmediate  force,  but  he  is 
enjoined  to  have  copies  of  them  transmitted  to  England,  that 
they  may  receive  the  approbation  of  the  king  in  council,  and  his 
majesty  has  the  right,  with  the  advice  of  his  council,  to  cancel 
any  act  so  passed  by  the  provincial  parliament  within  two  years 
from  th«  date  of  its  arrival  in  England ;  but  hitherto  its  wisdom 
has  beei  so  well  directed,  in  the  arduous  task  of  legislating,  that 
there  is  no  instance  on  record,  of  this  prerogative  ever  having 
been  exercised.     The  acts  that  emanate  from  the  provincial  par- 
liament, are  all  of  a  local  nature,  such,  for  instance,  as  provid- 
ing for  the  internal  regulation  of  the  country,  through  the  vari- 
ous departments ;  for  its  defence,  as  far  as  relates  to  enrolling 
and  embodying  the  militia ;  and  imposing  taxes  for  raising  the 
necessary  supplies,  to  defray  the  expences  of  government.     But 
any  acts,  having  for  their  object  the  alteration,  or  repeal  of  any 
laws  existing  antecedent  to  the  constitution  granted  in  1791  ;  the 
tithes ;   grr.nts  of  land  for  the  maintenance  of  the  Protestant 
clergy ;  the  rights  of  presentation  to  rectories,  or  the  endowments 
of  parsonages ;   whatever  relates  to  the  exercise  of  religiouK 
•worship,  or  disqualification  of  religious  tenets;  the  rights  of  the 
clergy;  to  changes  or  modifications  of  the  discipUne  of  the 
church  of  England;  or  of  the  royal  prerogative  on  the  subject 
of  waste  crown  lands,  must,  after  having  passed  the  provincial 
parliament,  be  submitted  to  the  British  parliament,  and  receive 
the  royal  assent  before  they  can  pass  into  laws.     The  house  of 
assembly  is  composed  of  fifty-two  members,  and  is  a  model,  on 
n  small  scale,  of  the  house  of  commons  of  the  imperial  parha- 
mcnt ;  the  representatives  are  extensive  proprietors  of  land,  and 
are  elected  for  the  districts  and  counties,  by  the  votes  of  persons 
being  actual  possessors  of  landed  property,  of  at  least  forty  shil- 
lings clear  annual  value  :  for  the  city  of  Quebec  and  the  towns, 
thf'y  are  chosen  by  voters,  who  must  be  possessed  of  a  dwelling- 
house  and  piece  of  ground,  of  not  less  annual  value  than  five 
pounds  sterling,  or  else  have  been  domiciliated  in  the  place  for 
one  year  previous  to  the  writ  of  summons  issuing,  and  have  paid 
one  year's  rent,  not  under  ten  pounds  sterling,  for  a  house  or 


DDCMDA  NO.  f. 


ADDENDA  NO.  1.] 


BOUCWETTe's  CANADA. 


ill 


:t,  and  receive 
The  house  of 


lodging.  There  exists  no  disqualification  eitlier  for  the  electors 
or  elected  on  account  of  religious  tenets,  for,  in  this  country, 
where  toleration  reigns  in  its  plenitude,  every  one,  whatever 
may  be  his  faith,'i8  eligible  to  fill  any  office  or  employ,  provided 
the  other  qualifications  required  by  law  are  net  wanting.  The 
sittings  of  the  house  begin  in  January,  and  all  the  public  and 
private  business  is  usually  gone  through  by  the  latter  end  of 
March,  about  which  time  it  is  prorogued,  so  that  the  session  ne- 
ver e.Kceeds  the  terra  of  three  months,  between  January  and 
April.  Should  parliament  not  bo  dissolved  by  the  governor,  a 
circumstance  that,  indeed,  very  seldom  occurs,  its  duration  is  li- 
mited by  the  act  of  the  constitution  to  the  period  of  four  years, 
when  its  functions  expire,  and  writs  are  immediately  issued  for 
the  election  of  another.  At  such  a  crisis  the  independence  and 
energy  of  the  various  voters,  the  professions  and  humility  of  the 
cauuidates,  are  as  strikingly  pourtrayed  as  in  the  more  turbulent 
contests,  that  take  place  on  similar  occasions  in  the  country. 

"  The  criminal  code  of  the  United  Kingdom  extends  to  Canada, 
and  is  carried  into  effect  without  the  slightest  variation.  For  the 
administration  of  civil  justice,  there  is  a  court  of  appeal,  in  which 
the  governor  presides,  assisted  by  the  lieutenant  governor,  not 
less  than  five  members  of  the  executive  council,  and  such  of  the 
principal  law  officers,  as  have  not  had  cognizance  of  the  previ- 
ous trial ;  against  the  decisions  of  this  court,  as  a  fiual  resource, 
an  appeal  may  be  made  to  the  king  in  council.  A  court  of  king's 
bench,  a  court  of  common  pleas,  with  each  a  chief  justice,  and 
three  puisne  judges.  Quarter  sessions  of  the  peace  held  four 
times  a  year,  besides  a  police  and  subordinate  magistiature  for 
determining  affairs  of  minor  importance. 

"  By  far  the  largest  portion  of  inhabitants*  are  descended  from 
French  ancestors,  the  reader  will  readily  surmise  that  the  pre- 
vailing religion  is  Roman  Catholic;  of  this  persuasion,  ihore  is  a 
Bishop  of  Quebec,  a  coadjutor  with  the  title  of  Bishop  of  Salde, 
nine  Vicars  General,  aud  about  two  hundred  curates,  and  mis- 
sionaries spread  over  the  different  districts  of  the  province,  by 
whom  the  tenets  of  their  religion  are  inculcated  with  assiduity 


*  Only  correct  as  respects  Lower  Canada.,  the  fact  is  the  con- 
trary in  the  \j  pper  Province. 


Fa: 
"1. 

".,JVV 


EiiiV. 

If 


^^^^;i' 


...J. 


i:^' 


i' 


ah; 


t   i: 


m 


V.' 


I; 

'   'I, 


IV 


BOLCiIETTE's  CANADA. 


[addenda  no.  J; 


and  tlevotioji,  bMt  little  tinctured  with  Wgotry  or  intolerance,  un- 
happily so  frequently  cliaracteristic  of  the  same  faith  in  the  old 
world.    Exercising  their  sacred  functions  under  the  auspices  of  a 
Protestant  governiner^t,  they  feci  the  value  of  mildness  in  their 
own  conduct,  and  strenuously  endeavor  to  repay  its  protecting 
power  by  a  zealous  performance  of  their  duties,  and  by  instilling 
into  the  minds  of  their  flock,  a  grateful  obedience  to  the  laws, 
with  a  reverence  for  the  constitution,  as  well  as  the  obligations 
in)posed  upon  them  in  their  character  of  good  citizens.     They 
are  also  chiefly  employed  in  the  in)portant  cares  of  education,  of 
which  they  acquit  themselves  in  a  manner  ♦''at  reflects  the  high- 
est credit  upon  their  exertions.     To  this  L'j  the  seminaries  of 
Quebec  and  Montreal,  and  the  college  of  Nicolet,  bear  a  power- 
ful testimony.     In  these  establishments,  where  the  higher  and 
more  abstruse  sciences  yield  to  those  of  more  extended  and  pri- 
mary utility;  professors  are  employed  to  teach  the  various  bran- 
ches of  the  classics,  mathematics,  and  belles-lettres,  whose  learn- 
ing would  acquire  them  reputation  in  any  country.     In  cor...iu- 
nicating  their  instructions,  the  French  idiom  is  in  general  use,  but 
in  the  college  there  is  a  professor  of  the  English  tongue,  an  exam- 
ple worthy  of  being  followed  by  the  two  former,  as  this  language 
now  becomes  an  essential  part  of  youthful  studies.     The  reve- 
nues of  the  Catholic  clergy  are  derived  from  grants  of  land  made 
to  them  under  the  ancient  regime,  and  the  usual  contributions 
ordained  by  their  ecclesiastical  government,  which  arc,  perhaps, 
more  cheerfully  paid  by  the  Canadians,  and  collected  in  a  man- 
ner much  freer  from  vexatious  exactions   than  in  any  country 
whatever. 

"  The  spiritual  concerns  of  the  Protestant  part  of  the  commu- 
nity are  under  the  guidance  of  the  Lord  Bishop  of  Quebec,  nine 
rectors,  and  a  competent  ntimber  of  other  clergymen,  who  arc 
supported  by  annual  stipends  from  the  government,  by  the  ap- 
propriation of  all  granted  lands  as  provided  for  in  the  act  of  tlie 
constitution,  and  the  other  sources  of  revenue  peculiar  to  the 
<;hurch  of  England.  In  a  degree  of  moderate  affluence,  exempt 
on  the  one  hand  from  inordinate  impropriation,  and  on  the  other 
from  penurious  parsimony ;  thereby  giving  to  the  clerical  order, 
the  degree  of  consequence  in  the  superior  ranks  Of  society  that  iu 
4!)o  tt>  its  niitiislrv. 


tivi. 


iy:|' 


DDENDA  no.  I; 


ADDENDA  NO.  I.] 


BOLCIIETTE  HI  CANADA. 


olerance,  un- 
it!) ill  the  old 
I  auspices  of  a 
iness  in  their 
its  protecting 
i  by  instilling 

to  the  laws, 
lie  obligations 
lizens.     They 

eJucation,  of 
ects  the  high- 
seminaries  of 
bear  a  power- 
le  higher  and 
inded  and  pri- 
!  various  bran- 
s,  whose  learn- 
r.     In  cor.-.iu- 
eneral  use,  but 
igue,  an  exam- 
5  this  language 
Es.     The  reve- 
s  of  land  made 
1  contributions 
I  arc,  perhaps, 
cted  in  a  man- 
a  any  country 

of  the  commu- 
r  Quebec,  nine 
ymen,  who  arc 
nt,  by  the  ap- 
the  act  of  the 
peculiar  to  the 
luence,  exempt 
nd  on  the  other 
clerical  order, 
f  society  that  i§ 


*'  In  the  .iinxjstrained  exercise  of  two  systems  of  divine  worship 
so  widely  diftering  in  ll.eir  tenets,  it  is  a  pleasing  fact,  that  the 
discipline  of  the  two  churelies  never  encounters  the  smallest  oh- 
struotion  from  each  oilier ;  on  the  contrary,  the  greatest  goo{K 
will  and  harjnony  is  observed  to  pievail,  as  yvcjll  between  th^  pas- 
tors, as  the  flocks  committed  to  their  charge. 

"  For  tlie  defence  of  the  two  Canndas,  a  regular  military  esta- 
blishment is  maintained  by  the  British  government,  which,  in 
lime  of  peace,  m.^y  amount  to  alx)ut  six  or  seven  thousand  mqn, 
including  artjllerv,  engineers,  commissariat,  &c.     But  when  we 
are  at  war  wiiU  tJie  United  States,  this  force  is  inerea$ed  as  the 
pressure  of  cireumstances  demands;  and  at  this  period^  (1815) 
i  may  venture  to  crmpute  it,  although  without  official  documents 
to  fix  the  the  precise  numerical  strength,  at  from  twenty-seven  to 
thirty  thousand  men  in  both  provinces.     In  aid  of  the  regular 
troops,  u   vl  in  order  tliat,  under  any  exigency,  the  government 
may  be  enabled  to  bring  a  suflicient  force  into  the  field,  the  low- 
er province  it»  apportioned  into  fifty-two  divisions,  wherein  aU 
males  fi'om  fifteen  to  sixty  years  of  age,  arp  bound*t)y  law  to  en- 
roll their  names  every  year,  with  the  captains  of  cofnpanies  ap- 
pointed for  their  parish,  witi  .n  the  month   ;f  April.    After  the 
enrolment  is  completed,  they  are  mustered  four  times  in  a  year, 
either  on  Sundays  or  holidays,  whpn  they  are  instructed  in  as 
much  of  the  rudiments  of  militryy  exercise  as  the  Occasion  will 
allow;  besides  these  four  muster  dayS;,  they  are  once  in  each 
year,  reviewed^  by  the  commander  in  chief,  or  the  officer  com- 
manding the  division.     This  is  denominated  the  sedentary  mili- 
4ia ;  and  as  the  average  strength  of  each  division  go  enrolled, 
may  be  computed  about  a  thousand,  it  makes  the  aggregate 
amount  upwards  of  52,000  men.*     The  incorporated  milifia,  by 
an  ?ict  passed  in  the  provincial  parliament  on  the  19th  of  JVJay, 
1812,  is  fixed  during  the  war,  at  two  thousand  men  ;  but  by  virtue 
of  authority  vested  in  the  governor,  it  is  at  present  increased  to 
five  battalions,  or  nearly  double  the  number,  which,  on  the  re-es- 
tablishment of  peace  with  the  United  Stales,  will  be  reduced  to 
the  standard  named  in  the  act.     This  body  is  chosen  by  ballof 
from  the  unmarried  men  of  the  sedentary  militia;  its  term  of 

*  In  the  Lower  Province  only 


V«r, 


^^■t'''hi''  > 

■V  .A 

^^H|>'''!iy 

^^E^M'l  ■'',:■       '' 

^K': 'i'T 

^R|:jj''';'': 

^^K-''. 

^B'":^r4' 

^^^H|t.' 

^HT.,  ''>''■' 

^^Ki  '^'' 

^^Ki<  '.J'-'r 

B'l^^.' 

H-^,;J; 

^^^Hi  '-n'^' 

^Bf  ''1  '^  ' 

^Hr'  i^uv 

^^KU''/)-t.r 

^BI-X".,    ' 

■ 

^^Vl'  'V'vL^ 

^    '•  , 

}■    - 

^pV.^lp"':"  ■" 

1  . 

^■li. '•,;'.'■■ 

!■    ' 

^kI""  i      ■  ■  *• 

^^Kfi' 

Hsi't'")'' 

Hri  ■'-"H 

■■j'^i''-' 

K);,**  ■..;;• 

Bi'._-lvi 

R  I'fc 

B'V'ti''  •'■             1 

■'■*'|^>  '  '  :   ; 

iM'  ■     '?■• 

mp  :;.;,v 

^rn^'-'V 

'  j^"'^'-      ■■■  -'N* 

^u>|,'       ■','*■ 

W7-'".M' 

iijhi'r          i-i 

, 

,-,.  ,;,» 

■T  ;v 

fl^:>    '-x 

*|l;      v/ 

I'l^'*.      ■'■■     ■;) 

>]h:    r-   ■■I 

;te'    ,:,V"'.''  . 

- 

;^'' '  •'' ' 

.1. 

^^'    "*' 

iffl_^'|     '        'i 

vWr''                '•< 

m.t\<.  ■ 

^■'Si'j't'.                      -     1                          ■ 

'  ■'''■"iv 

'l-r^ 

:    '.  \    ■                               ! 

■•' . :  i     ■      ., 

■„  :  :\' 

■■''ii'-         '■■ 

'.  »■■       » 

K::'!"     ■  . 

m  ■  ■ 

S':* 


VI 


UOUCIIETTli  8  CANADA. 


[addenda  no.  f. 


Service  is  two  years.  It  is  also  provided  that  one  half  of  each 
regiment  may  be  discharged  annually,  and  the  vacancies  filled 
up  by  a  fresh  ballot ;  a  plan  that  will  have  the  good  effect  of  ex- 
tending gradually  a  certain  degree  of  military  discipline  over  the 
greater  part  of  the  population  capable  of  bearing  arms.  The 
battalions  thus  formed  of  single  men,  renders  the  military  ser- 
vice less  obnoxious  to  the  individual,  an4  less  expensive  to  the 
state,  by  saving  the  provision  otherwise  necessary  to  be  made  for 
>vives  and  children  of  militiamen  actually  embodied.  By  the 
same  act,  the  sum  of  twelve  thousand  pounds  annually  is  raised 
for  the  maintenance  of  this  constitutional  force.  The  incorpo- 
rated militia  is  well  equipped  and  in  a  state  of  discipline  that 
merits  the  highest  commendations,  by  which  it  has  been  able  to 
brigade  with  the  regular  troops  during  the  existing  contest,  and 
to  take  so  distinguished  a  part  in  some  of  the  actions  fought,  that 
it  must  press  upon  the  consideration  of  government,  a  firm  reH- 
ance  upon  its  future  exertions,  and  devotedness  in  the  cause  of 
its  country. 

"  In  the  Upper  Province,  the  same  system,  with  some  trifling 
modification,  prevails,  but  from  the  more  scanty  population  the 
force  is  proportionably  much  'ess ;  however,  the  militia  of  Upper 
Canada  had  its  full  share  of  the  hardships  of  the  war,  as  well  as 
many  opportunities  of  distinguishing  itself  in  presence  of  the  ene- 
my ',  and  the  real  magnitude  of  its  service  may  be  estimated, 
when  it  is  considered,  that,  by  availing  himself  of  it,  the  govern 
nor  general.  Sir  George  Prevost,  was  enabled  with  a  number  of 
.troops  of  the  line,  inadequate  according  to  usual  military  calcu- 
lations,  not  only  to  repel  every  attempt  of  the  American  com- 
.  manders  to  invade  the  British  territory,  in  the  years  1813  and 
.181 4,  but  to  overwhelm  the  assailants  with  defeats,  that  for  a  long 
time  will  leave  an  indelible  stain  upon  their  military  reputa- 
tion." 
{»2  Geographical  Description  of  the  Province  of  Lower  Canada. 

with  remarks  upon  Upper  Canada. — Londonj  IB\C*    Bij 

Joseph  Bouchette.    Paga  15 — 24.] 


filV 


DDENDA  NO.  r. 


ADDENDA  NO.  !.] 


BOIXHCTTE  i  CANADA- 


^% 


"  AMEIIICV  possesses  a  climntc  peculiar  to  itself;  the  quantity 
Olid  prevalence  of  heat  aiul  cold,  seems  to  be  governed  by  laws 
materially  diircriii;";  from  tliose  that  regulate  the  temperature  of 
«thcr  parts  of  the  eartli.     It  is  certain  that  a  person  would  be 
innterially  led  astray,  were  lie  to  form  an  opinion  of  the  tempe- 
rature of  Canada  from  the  analogy  of  local  situation ;  it  lies,  for 
instance,  in  the  same  parallel  of  latitude  as  France,  but  instead 
of  cvhalins:  ihe  exquisite  fiagrance  of  flowers,  and  Hpening  de- 
licate fruits,  delicious  excciUence,  as  is  the  ciise  iti  that  country* 
its  surface  is  covered  with  accumulated  snows  for  nearly  one  half 
of  the  year,  aiid  vegetation  is  suspended  for  nearly  the  samd 
period  by  continued  frost.     Yet  this  circumstande  is  unattended 
with  so  much  rigor  as  any  one  would  be  dispol^ed  to  suspect,  and 
notwithstanding  the  apparent  severity,  Canada  enjoys  a  climate 
thai  is  congenial  to  health  in  an  eminent  degree,  and  highit  con« 
duces  to  fertilize  its  soil.     Heat  and  cold  are  certainly  to  ex- 
tremes ;  the  latter  lioth  for  duration  and  intensity  by  far  the  most 
j>redonnnant,  is  supposed  to  derive  much  of  its  force,  from  the  fol- 
lowing ckuse,  viz.  the  land  stretches  from  the  St.  Lawrence  to- 
wards the  north  pole,  which  it  approaches  much  nearer  to,  and 
with  a  less  iuiervention  of  sea,  than  that  on  the  old  continent  j 
it  expands  also  an  immense  distance  to  the  Westward ;  lh<?refore, 
the  winds  between  the  north-eost  and  north-west  passing  over  a 
less  surface  of  water  than  in  the  same  portion  of  the  other  he- 
mi.«5phere,  are  consequently  divested  of  a  similar  quantity  of  theif 
Intense  frigor,  and  afterwards  sweeping  across  the  immense  chain 
of  mountains,  covered  with  perpetual  snows  and  ice  that  intersects 
the  whole  of  these  cheerless  regions,  they  acquire  a  penetratingf 
severity,  by  traversing  so  vast  a  ttact  of  frozen  ground,  that  even 
their  progress  into  lower  latitudes,  cannot  disarnj  theitt  of.    Of 
these  winds  the  north-west  is  the  most  rigorous  ;*  and  even  in 
summer,  as  sooii  as  it  prevails,  the  transition  from  heat  to  cold  is 
so  sudden,  that  the  thermometer  has  been  known  to  fall  nearly 
thirty  degrees  in  a  very  few  hours.    The  highest  range  of  the 

*  This  is  also  the  Case  in  all  parts  of  North  America,  east  of 
the  Chippewan  mountains;  the  frigid  influence  of  the  north-west 
current  of  air  is  severely  felt  upon  the  shores  df  the  gulf  Of  Mexi- 
co.   Upon  the  Atlantic  slope,  east  of  the  Allegany  chain,  the 
H'inds  from  the  northwest  are  peculiarly  picr«ingly  c«ld. 


ill.' 


.'■!"' 


f!>.';,>.' 


',  .    *'■  ^ 

. 

•  ■    ''J 

■   'i  ^■ 

1 

>  . 

Ji-fc, 


.  .1 !  ■ 


VIM 


BOLCHEl'TE  SlANAOA. 


[addenda  no.  I. 


summer  lieal,  is  usually  between  96  and  lO'J  degrees  of  Fahren- 
heit ;*  but  an  atmosphere  particularly  pure,  abates  the  oppressive 
fervor  felt  in  other  parts  at  the  same  point.  In  winter  the  mer- 
cury sometimes  sinks  to  31  decrees  below  zero,  but  this  must  be 
considered  its  very  greatest  depression,  nnd  as  happening  only 
once  or  twice  in  a  season,  or  perhaps  not  more  than  thrice  in 
two  seasons,  and  then  its  continuance  rarely  exceeds  forty-eight 
hours;  but  the  general  range  of  cold  in  medium  year?,  may  be 
estimated  from  twenty  degrees  above,  to  twenty-five  degrees  be* 
low  zero.  The  frost  which  is  seldom  interruj)ted  during  the  win- 
ter, is  almost  always  accompanied  with  a  cloudless  sky,  nnd  pure 
dry  air  that  makes  it  both  pleasant  nnd  healthy,  and  considera- 
bly diminislres  the  piercing  quality  it  possesses  when  the  atmos- 
phere is  loaded  with  vapours.  At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the 
province,  from  its  vicinity  to  the  sea,  fogs  are  brought  on  by  au 
easterly  wind,  but  to  the  westward  they  seldom  prevail,  and  even 
at  Quebec  are  almost  unknown.  The  snow  usually  lies  on  the 
ground  until  the  latter  end  of  April,  when  it  is  melted  by  the 
powerful  rays  of  the  sun,  ratlrer  than  dissolved  by  the  progress  of 
thaw, the  air  still  continuing  pure  and  frosty;  when  it  has  disap- 
peared, the  spring  may  be  said  to  commence ;  and  as  the  ground 
being  protected  by  so  thick  a  covering  during  winter,  is  seldom 
frozen  many  inches  deep,  the  powers  of  vegetation  almost  imme- 
diately resume  their  activity,  and  bring  on  the  fine  sea- 
son, that  would  excite  in  a  stranger  to  the  country  the 
^greatest  degree  of  astonishment.  Rain  prevails  most  in  the 
spring    and    fall   of    the    year,t    but    is    seldom    violent    or 

♦  If  the  thermometer  of  Fahrenheit  ranges  in  Canada,  in 
summer,  between  96  and  102,  the  intensity  of  Canadian  heat  is 
greater  than  in  Louisiana ;  I  never  was  made  acquainted  with  u 
higher  range  of  the  thermometer  in  New-Orleans,  when  proper- 
ly placed,  than  9 1^. 

+  Taken  in  the  sense  understood  by  Mr.  Bouchette,  when  he 
wrote  the  above  expression,  the  same  observation  would  apply 
with  equal  force  to  all  those  parts  of  North  America,  included  iii 
the  Cajiadas  and  United  States.  But,  in  reality,  the  rainy  season 
of  all  these  vast  regions  actually  commences  about  the  beginning 
of  November,  and  continues  until  the  latter  end  of  April.  Suow 
is  only  water  in  a  state  of  congelation ;  and  in  fact  that  element 
falls  from  the  clouds  in  all  states,  between  complete  fluidity,  to 
that  of  the  most  golid  ice.    It  is  therefore,  unfounded  in  princi' 


IDENDA  NO.  I. 


ADUEXDA  NO.  I.]  »Oi;CIIETTE*S  CANADA. 


vt 


of  long  (hiraUoilin  the  level  j^aits  of  tlio  province.     Towards  the 
immiitaiiKs,  however,  their  freqiuMicy,  and  ilufation  are  both  in- 
cu'iiseil.     liorderiiig  on  llhc  guU'  of  St.  Lam-ence,  as  the  face  of 
l!io  soil  is  ruL'ged  and  monntainous,  the  climate  somewhat  influ- 
(Miccil  thcrchy,  participates  in  its  nngenial  nature  j  but  advanc> 
iiig  to  the  westward,  it  becomes  more  mild,  and  encourages  the 
resiUMplion  of  agricultural  labours  at  a  much  earlier  period,  par- 
ticularly in  the  western  district  of  the  Lower,  and  all  the  settled 
parts  of  tiKj  Upper  Province  ;  at  Montreal,  for  instance,  only  79 
geographical   miles  southward^  and  145  miles  due  west  froni  t!ie 
meridian  of  Quebec,  the  spritig  is  reclvioned  *o  comwicncc  from 
five  to  six  weeks  earlier  tlwui  at  tlic  latter  place.    Vegetation  is 
proportionately  more  luxuriant  and  vigorous,  producing  crops  of 
greater  increase,  by  seldom  experiencing  checks  in  their  early 
stages  from  the  hoar  frost,  so- injurious  to  the  rising  growth  where- 
over  it  prevails.     In  a  comparison  between  the  climates  of  Great 
J5ritain  and  the  Cfinadas,  some  advantages  result  to  the  latter,  be- 
cause the  prevalence  of  fine  clear  weather,  and  a  pore  atmos- 
phere greatly  exceeds  tliat  in  the  former  5  besides,  the  degree  of 
t^:o!d  is  prm'ed  by  actual  experiment,  not  tote  proportionate  to  the 
indication  of  the  •thermometer  j  as  a  corroborating  instance,  it  is 
remarked,  at  its  utmost  severity,  which  is  in  the  month;?  of  Janu- 
ary and  Febi'uary,  the  kboirr  of  artisans  in  out-door  employments 
is  rarely  suspended  many  days  in  succession. 

"  Froiw  the  climate  of  a  country,  its  soil  comes  under  notice 
by  a  sort  of  natural  transition.  On  making  a  calculation  of  the 
superficial  contents  of  the  area,  enclosed  between  the  two 
principal  ranges  of  mountains  before  spoken  of,  about  16, 
'y-inpoo  square  acres  may  be  computed,  to  include  the  great- 
er part  of  the  land  in  the  Lower  Provirxe  yet  surveyed,  that 
is  capable  of  being  turned  to  any  favorable  account  in  an 
agricultural  point  of  view.  In  so  gi'eat  an  extent,  undoubt- 
edly every  gradation  of  <]uality,  between  very  bad  and  very 
good  is  to  be  found  j  but  it  would  be  attended  with  some  dif- 

ples  of  true  meteorological  .philosophy  to  call  spring  and  antimiii 
our  rainy  seasons.  In  all  places  where  winter  is  of:  sufficjent 
length  and  frigidity  to  permit  considerable  accunaulatiqp  of  snow, 
the'spring  floods  in  rivers,  owe  their  augmentation,  more  to  the 
melting  of  that  meteor,  than  to  the  rain  that  fall?  during  the  rise 
of  the  waters. 

R2 


Si 


■''■r 


ft 


B 


[fe; 


;-'•!■ 


'■s  ^  .f  ■  '«i 


m 

J  i  •.•■  ' 


ft 


mULcnETTE'i  rAKADA. 


I^ADDKNDA  RO.  f. 


ficulty,  to  slate  witli  tolerable  correctness  tlie  relative  proportion 
of  each  kind.  Sensiule  that,  in  thus  generalizing  the  >vhnlv>,  only 
nn  imperfect  sketch  can  he  given,  it  is  nty  intention  lliat  asniutU 
care  as  possible  shall  he  used  to  ren('  r  tlie  sui>ject  more  clear  and 
familiar;  when  treating  the  diiTcrent  distiicts  and  divisions  topo- 
grapiiically.  For  the  present  then,  A  may  suffice  to  say,  that, 
with  resi)cct  to  goodness,  the  eastern  paits  are  inferior  to  the 
western,  being  of  a  more  irregular  and  uneven  surface,  in  many 
places  consisting  of  a  light  soil,  oi'  a  suudy  nature,  laid  upoti  a 
stratum  of  perfect  sand  or  gravel,  in  others  it  is  varied  tviih  mix- 
tures of  clay,  loam,  and  sometimes  a  good  vegetable  mould  u)ioo 
H  reddish  argillaceous  bottom,  constituting  a  medium  between  t'n«' 
two  extremes;  this  latter  species  is  rather  supposed  to  exceed  tJic 
inferior  classes  in  quantity,  and  wiih  a  motlerate  degree  of  care- 
ful husbandry  will  yield  the  farmer  pretty  fair  returns.  In  the 
westeru  part  of  the  pi'ovince,  although  tlie  vai  ioty  is  iieavly  as 
l^rcat  as  in  the  other,  in  its  nature  it  is  very  superior;  the  sort 
most  esteemed,  is  a  composition  ol'  fme  ri^h  loanux^  boili  n  ytlluw 
and  bluish  colour,  with  a  good  black,  earth,  formkn^f  u  suil,  timt  iu 
the  coftntry  is  wipposcd  to  be  endued  with  the  greatest  slNire  oi 
fertilizing  properties  af  uny  of  the  natural  chjsses;  and  of  tlii^. 
sort  consists  the  chief  portion  of  land  in  tlic  western  division  ;  ihc 
j^em^in^ng  part  is  always  above  mediocrity ;  in  fact,  it  may  he 
fairly  asserted,  that  through  tiie  whole  of  North  Awiei  i'^a,  and  in- 
deed iu  many  other  countries,  it  will  be  difiicult  to  nu  el  with  1;ukI 
more  inviting  to  form  new  selllcQ^ents  upon,  or  where  it  i^;  i^irca- 
dy  cultivated,  capable  of  being  made  more  generous  and  {-.voduc- 
tive,  by  the  introduction  of  an  improved  syslen^  of  hnsbr.Mdry. 
Its  su])criovHy  over  the  contiguous  districts  of  the  United  State:? 
ia  ftilly  manifest,  by  tlie  readiness  with  which  American  familicir 
in  considerable  numbers,  have  for  y<;ars  j)ast,  abandoned  the  less 
fertile  fields  of  their  nativity,,  to  settle  upon  a  soil  that  they  are 
certain  will  abundantly  repay  the  industry  and  art  bestowed  uj)0ii 
it.  Uiidoubtedly  ^ic  bnvlhen  of  the  U\kcs  and  peculiar  laws  wili 
have  had  some  share  in  causing  these  migratioes  acioss  the  bor- 
ders, into  a  country  where  neither  would  be  felt.  Eut  be  this  as 
it  may,  many  farmers  thus  changing  the  scene  of  their  labours, 
have,  either  by  purchase  or  by  lease,  obtained  extensive  estates 
•^yid  endenizened  iheruselvc's  under  the  British  covcnimcnt;  whilst 


WKSDX  no.  t' 


AT»»nXD.V  NO.  r.j 


BOLcnKTtE*ii  CAMADA. 


XI 


others,  as  cajjer  to  niijoy  llio  same  advantages,  but  less  honest  in 
their  njanucr  of  ohlaiiiing  them,  have  selected  convenient  situa- 
tions among  the  reserved  lands,  wherein  they  have  unceremoni- 
ously donnciliated  wilhont  license  or  title ;  and  even  without  the 
ftcknowlodgcnuMit  of  rent,  have  continued  to  cultivate  and  im- 
jMovc  their  favorite  si>ots  thus  chosen.* 

*'  This  specie*  of  tenure  certainly  ought  not  to  be  allowed  by 
the  crown,  and  means  sliould  undoubtedly  be  taken  to  eject  such 
tenants,  because  their  prior  occupancy,  the  irregularity  of  its  be- 
ing generally  unknown,  deprives  the  natural  subject  of  taking  the 
lots  upon  the  terms  before  recited.  It  is  also  desirahic  not  to 
permit  the  pernicious  exanjple  of  such  unauthorised  possession  cX 
valuable  property  to  communicate  its  influence,  or,  indeed,  to  ex- 
ist at  all.  It  is  niiicli  to  be  wislied,  that  the  system  of  manage- 
ment in  Lower  Canada  was  as  good  as  the  land,  ujion  which  it  is 
exercised ;  agricultural  riches  would  then  flow  in  a  copious  and 
inexhaustible  stream ;  for  if  the  natural  excellence  of  soil  and 
goodness  of  climate,  contending  against  the  disadvantages  of  a 
very  inferior,  not  to  say  bad  mode  of  husbandry,  be  capable  of 

•  IIow  far  a  disaflected  citizen  of  the  United  States,  is  qualifi- 
ed to  make  a  good  British  subject  in  Canada,  I  am  unable  to  de- 
termine. Where  Mr.  Bouchette  is  uninfluenced  by  national  or 
political  prejudices,  he  is  a  respectable  writer ;  but  when  descant- 
in<T  upon  any  subject  relating  to  the  United  States,  he  evinces 
more  than  the  mere  partiality  of  an  Englishman.  My  opinion 
has  been  given  in  the  text,  that  in  no  pa:l  of  his  Britannic  ma- 
j<,-sty's  dominions,  exc<?pt  India,  are  to  be  found  so  many  person* 
ii!  proportion  to  given  numbers,  averse  to  the  people  and  govern- 
ment of  the  United  Slates,  as  in  tlie  two  Canadas,  New-Bruns- 
wick, and  Nova  Scotia.  Great  moral  change  in  public  feeling 
unist  take  place,  before  the  inhabitants  of  these  provinces  cau 
rolisii  our  institutions.  Wise  and  reflecting  men  in  the  British 
North  American  possessions,  would,  to  avoid  a  frequent  recurring 
border  warfare,  an  evil  they  have  experienced,  consent  if  all  cir- 
cumstances were  favorable  to  a  separation  from  Great  Britain ; 
but  would  very  reluctantly  J)e  amalgamated  into  the  Union  of  the 
States  Indeed  without  violent  and  repeated  infractiojis  upon 
their  personal  rights,  the  people  of  Canada  will  long  remain  as 
they  now  are,  sincerely  attached  to  the  government  of  the  parent 
state.  It  was  such  infractions  pertinaciously  continued,  tliat 
produced  the  United  States;  let  England  proflt  by  the  folly  and 
crimes  of  her  former  rulers. 


w 


h-iX 


10 


Xli 


IOIICHKtTe's  r'AiNADA. 


l 


.\onE.\nA  S0.9. 


p 


i  *  u 

:  i 


Pa- 


•■* . 


o; 


r   • 


;  i 

■;tv 

1? 

Uf 

j 

P;- 

1 

«■:?;■. 

'■^    '.!    ■ 

■  ! 
! 

l-';^! 

I'-,-'-  ■; 

yielding  crops  ol'  15  to  18  lo  onr,  ^Iial  miglil  iiol  be  exjiecteJ 
I'loni  it,  were  the  inodcni  iinpiovt  inetit  in  iiiiplenu'iitx  as  well  t!i» 
culture,  tlmt  liave  been  iiiWodueed  witik  s\>  iiiucli  leiU'Tit  in  V.ug- 
lund,  to  lie  applied  tu  it?  Tiie  ('•')i\adian  (ainiir  uni'ortiinately, 
and  it  is  u  subject  much  to  be  luniented,  has  hitliciU)  bad  u» 
means  of  acquiiiiig  instiuclion,  ni  the  many  new  and  b(  neiiciai 
inethuds,  by  which  modern  scien«e  bus  so  greatly  a**>i>ted  the  Ih- 
bois  ol"  the  husbandman.  Unskilled  in  any  olher  u\o»lv,  be  c«..m^ 
tinues  to  till  bis  lields  by  the  same  rule  Ibal  liisi'urel'atberslbllow* 
cd  for  many  generations,  which  long  liubit  and  an  nnpiulUable 
partiality  engrafted  thereon,  seeujs  lo  have  endeared  tobiui; 
knowing  the  naturnl  bounty  bt  bis  land,  be  places  bis  ^icafe%t  n- 
Jiance  upon  it,  and  feels  satisfied  when  be  reap»u  crop  not  info 
lior  to  that  of  the  year  gone  by,  appaientiy  without  a  wish  lo  in« 
crease  liis  stores  by  the  adoption  of  untried  means.  Ajiprdnn- 
sions  of  failure  and  consequent  loss,  operate  more  stiojigly  tbau 
disinclination,  for  a  desire  to  enlarge  bis  profitj  >s  full  n.s  lively  ivi 
him  as  in  other  men,  vhicbj  aided  by  a  genius  active  in  iinitiitiiip^ 
Avould  certainly  impel  liiin  to  try  bii>  success  at  any  i»niovutii)iJ., 
Jiroductive  of  corresponding  iidvantages,  tb.il  might  be  i).ti«)dnc- 
ed  by  another.  Exhliiple  Ks  the  only  stit>mUis  reqnired,  and  rt  iy 
well  worth  the  attention  of  thttsc  to  wlom  the  welfare  of  the  Uii- 
tish  colonics  Is  confided,  and  whomu^t  be  sensil>le  of  the  inipuiC^ 
ance  of  this  one  in  particular,  to  consider  of  means  by  which  tlii<j 
stimulus  could  be  nH)St  effectually  excited.  Whatever  eficoiiruge- 
mcnt  might  be  given  a?  an  incentive  to  the  industry  of  tie  native, 
or  the  alien  settler,  \o  persevere  rr.  an  approvecf  pijrii  of  ciehung, 
draining,  iand  getting  under  cultivatioii  the  new  lands,  oy  of  im- 
j)rovement  upon  such  as  are  already  under  management,  by  a  re- 
form of  the  present  s\slem,  a  judicious  variation  of  crops,  aiu! 
the  introduction  of  new  arlictes  suitable  to  the  climate,  of  wliicij 
there  are  many,  would  be  attendetl  with  so  much  benedt  that  in  A 
.'ery  few  years  Ihpse  provinces  must  become  one  of  the  most  va- 
luable of  all  the  exterior  possessions (,' Great  Britain. 

''  The  practice  of  husbandry  in  Canada  is  deft'ctivfe  in  some 
very  prihcipal  points :  in  thfc  Ijrst  place  the  use  of  the  plough, 
Which  ought  to  be  viewfd  as  tl;e  base  of  all  agrarian  improve- 
iJient,  is  nol  etlougb  aUciuled  to,  and  where  it  is  applied,  it  is 
done  in  a  manner  so  inadequate  to  the  purpose,  that  the  go<^d  in-- 


AUnEMIA  ^o.%, 


Itonr.NDA  NO.  t^ 


r.OurilETTE  S  CANADA. 


xHl 


tnidcd  to  Ik'  dnivrd  iVoiij  it,  ispowcrfillly  t'oiiiilpinrttil;  irni^mt- 
ly  speaking,  this  o|H'nifi()ii  iy  pnCoiiiM'd  so  liplilly,  tl.irl  scmccly 
more  tliHii  llu"  surface  of  the  {,Moiiiid  is  lnokcii  l»y  it;  the  weed!* 
that  ought   to  he  extiipale*!  nr«r  only  cut  ofl'^  they  eoiisv«|iienlly 
shoot  out  niraiii  uiid   nhsoib  ujueh  of  the  vijrt.r  of  the  soil,  that 
otherwise  would  nourish  the  seed  and  plants  coMUiiitfe<l  to  it.     It' 
the  Canadii'.M   hushandinan  could  witness  the  dilferencc  hetweeu 
the  style  of  pii>u|!;l'ii/g  in  t!nj;laiid  and  his  own,  I  am  certain  that 
he    ould  readily  he  convinced  of  its  uliliiy,  and  willing  to  ailopt 
a  n.etliod  so  much  in  favor  of  his  ;\utui»ninl  expectations.     Ano- 
ther main  ohjecl  in  farming  iuiprovcuuMiis,  is,  the  jmlicitnis  ap- 
plication of  the  various  manures  to  different  soils,  in   wiiich  es- 
sential  particular  it  must  be  adnutled  the  Canadian  practice  in 
much  in  arrear,  as  it  is  only  williin  a  few  years,  anti  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  large  towns,  that  it  has  in  sonje  degree  been  ul- 
lendt'd  to  by  a  few  I'aiiners  moi'e  intel!i^>ent  than  tlieiv  brcllnen  ; 
this  neglect,  added  to  l!ie  [)ernici(Mis  practice  ef  sowing  the  .<^an.c 
^sort  of  i;rain  year  after  )ear,  upon  the  same  land,  without  olhcf 
ni^ans  of  renovation  than  letting  it  lie  fallow  for  a  season,  must 
excite   w(Mi<lei    that    it  should  produce  such  crops  as  it  actually 
does      When   ih,?  her.Vt  of  the'Iand  is  supposed  to  he  gone,  iiv 
fireally  d.  teiiorn'ted,  ihcT'emcdy  is,  after  inking  a  crop  of  wheat 
fioni  it,  to  allow  a  mitnral  layer  ef  clover  and  grass,  which  serves 
"as  smnmer  feed  for  cattle.     In  auiunni  it  receives  a  ploughing  in 
the  usual  way,  and  in  the  ensuing  spring  iswain  j)utunilci  whettt 
■or  oats.     This  plan  is  impr«»fj(ab!e  and  iijudicious,  the  stock  do 
iivcs  but  little  advantage  from   the  herbage,   while   with  a  little 
Inore  care  the  gr(Mnuls  might  be  turned  to  much  better  accoiiut. 
The  inlroduciion  of  diflereiit  kinds  (»f  grasses  and  other   srctn- 
lents,  re,;nlated  by  a  moderalc  degree  of  skill,  could  not  fail  be- 
ing attended  wi<.h  complete  Sitccess.     Among   the   various  sorts, 
the  Enchsh  red,  and  Dutch  while  clover  are  worthy  of  r.otice, 
being  calculated  jjs  well  for  sunnner  feedns  exc<'llent  Mir.tcr  Meie. 
To  these  might  l)e  added  the  yellow  Swedish  turnip,  a  .^pcciis  per- 
haps superior  to  any  otiior  tjf  its  ( lass,  as  it  will  cnduie  the  nust 
violent  frost,  and  nmintains  its  goodness  until  the  spring,  as  well 
as  in  autumn  :  that  the  acquisition  of  such  a  plant  to  a  country 
always  subject  to  a  long  \\ inter  would  soon  become  valuable,  docs 
not  admit  of  a  ^ue^tioti.     It  \<  entitled  to  the  farmer's  attcr.tiou^ 


3(i« 


r.oLi  rtETi  e's  canajja. 


[addenda  no.  i: 


M0'  '•' 


u^- 


as  being  a  pioiitabic  articloj  froni  20  to  25  tons  per  acre  may  be 
inised  by  carclul  manogcineiit,  which  if  Jioused  before  winter  sets 
ill,  would  furnish  an  undeniable  food  for  cattle  during  that  season  • 
by  its  means  he  would  obtain  a  beneficial  employment  in  fatten- 
ing his  $tock  intended  for  market,  and  also  a  large  quantity  of  va- 
luable manure  from  his  farm-yard,  ready  to  be  applied  to  the 
poor  and  exhausted  Jan^ls  at  the  breaking  up  of  the  frost.    Many 
other  advantages  would  be  the  result,  if  a  systematic  arrange- 
ment in  tlio  change  of  crops  were  to  take  place  of  the  nndeviat-^ 
ing  practice  at  present  existing;  by  it  a  great  progress  would  be 
IMiade  in  tlic  science  of  agriculture,  and  a  long  catalogue  of  he- 
jcditary  errors,  wuuld  no  more  remain  unopposed  by  any  radical 
improvement.     I  must  again  repeat,  that  example  only  is  wfjnting 
to  induce  the  Canadian  farmers  to  explode  the  unproductive  me- 
thods they  have  so  long  followed,  and  yield  to  the  admission  of 
profitable  innovations,     Tlwere  is  yet  anoUier  article  or  two  of 
culture  of  the  very  first  importance  to  the  mother  country,  which 
would  most  certainly  prove  highly  beneficial  to  these  provinces  if 
sufilcient  attention  were  to  be  paid  to  them.     The  first  of  these 
;s  bnmp,  well  known  to  be  a  native  plant  of  the  country,  with 
climate  und  soil  jitculiarly  well  adapted  to  its  growth ;  in  small 
quantities  it  tias  been  raised  on  many  farms,  though  as  an  object 
of  commerce,  the  cultivation  of  it  has  not  been  attended  with 
success,  notwithstanding  it  !:ris  been  tried  under  the  sanction  of 
govcrjjiiient,  that  held  out  the  encouragement  of  premiums,  with 
the  additional  induccinent  of  a  certain  good  price,  per  ton  fpr  all 
gticK  as  might  be  produced  lit  for  its  purposes;  as  so  desirable  an 
object  hath  not  been  accomplished  under  these  circumstances,  it 
w'otild  seem  to  imply  that  ^onie  insurmountable  obstacle  opposes 
it.     In  reality  there  is  none  ^uch,  both  soil  and  climate  are  favor- 
alilc  ns  nature  could  foiiu  •them,  and  the  extensive  demand  of 
fh'cjii  Biitain  niit.'l  ever  onsuM  an  undoubted  market  at  prices 
jiigh  enough  to  riniuneiatc  the  growers  very,  handsomely :  the 
cause  uriuilure  in  t!io  allonipt,  must  be  sought  for  somewhere  else 
than  in  any  natural  deficiencies.     That  time  and  considerable 
sums  of  tuoiicy  have  been  wasted  is  unquesliouably  true,  but  it  is 
equally  a  fact,  that  the   good  iiUentions  of  administration  have 
boon  delcated  by  the  inadequate  measures  pursued  in  the  execu- 
lion  of  (ho  p!Jl!t^^  and  not  a  littJc  impeded  by  a  want  of  gcucr^ 


■  ■'  };,■ 


[addenda  no.  i: 


.ADUENPA  NO.  I.]  BOUCIIETTE's  CANADA. 


XV 


sigricultural  kno\vle(lgc,ln  the  persons  to  wlioin  its  management  was 
tonfided.     It  is  not  to  be  denied,  but  that  there  are  some  existing 
difficulties  to  be  removed  before  the  cultivation  of  hemp  can  be 
made  generally  agreeable  to  all  persons  interested  in  the  agricul- 
tural produce  of  the  province ;  but  as  t'  c  chief  of  these  arise 
from  the  discountenance  the  clergy  might  show  to  its  introduction 
on  an  extensive  scale,  from  a  suppositioin  that  it  would  interfere 
with  raising  wheat  and  other  grain  upon  the  lands  now  in  tillage, 
and  thereby  somewhat  diminish  their  revenues;    may  they  not 
be  surmounted  by  making  it  a  tithable  article,  and  fixing  the 
rate  to  be  paid  as  it  is  in  England,  namely,  five  shillings  per 
acre,  or  otherwise  in  the  same  proportion  as  the  contribution  of 
grain  is  at  present  taken  by  them,  a  20lh  part? — Under  such  a  re- 
gulation the  ecclesiastical  body  would  consult  its  own  inlercst,  by 
])ioinotiiig  the  increase  of  this  production;  a   measure  which 
coulJ  easily  be  accomplirlicd  by  the  pov.erful  influence  that  body 
possesses  in  all  the  concerns  of  the  country  people,  whether  tem- 
poral or  spiritual.     I  have  lx;en  unequivocally  assured  by  a  gcti- 
tlema)!,  who  has  devoted  the  greatest  part  of  his  life  lo  thi.   im- 
provements qf  growing  and  dressing  both  hemp  and  flax,  that  he 
hfis  carefully  examined  several  parcels  of  the  former,  sent  some 
time  ago  fiom  Canada  to  London,  and  is  decidedly  of  opinion, 
that  the  growth  is  much  supeiiorto  what  is  in  general  imported 
from  Russia;  but  on  the  ot.'ier  hand,  from  niisnian.'igement  after 
pulling,  and  from  being  steeped  in  bad  water,  its  quality  and  co- 
lour, are  greatly  inferior  to  what  they  would  Ijave  Ijcen,  had  it 
nndergone  a  proper  process.     The  management  of  this  plant 
contaisie  nothing  of  mystery,  and  is  so  plain  that  it  may  be  carv 
ried  on  by  the  least  inlqlligeut  husbandman  in  tlio  colony,  if  ho 
be  but  once  put  in  the  proper  routine.     The  choice  of  a  soil  Ik 
for  the  pur|)ose  is  a  leading  j)oint,  and  the  Kind  which  jstonsidei- 
ed  the  best,  is  a  rich  deep  loam,  whereon  a  very  good  crop  may 
be  raised  without  manure,  but  it  may  be  gro-.\n  on  almost  any 
species  not  absolutely  of  a  bad  quality,  il'  it  be  well  miuiured,  ex- 
cept where  there  is  a  cold  sub-foil  or  a  very  shallow  staple.     To 
ensure  a  good  crop,  the  most  careful  attention  must  Ix;  paid  to 
])loughing  and  preparing  the  laud.     The  tilth  should  be  as  line 
and  as  deep  as  possible,  a  ciicumstanco  hitliorlo  but  little  noticed 
}y  the  mo'^t  iiart  of  oiw  Canadian  faiinors,and  in  con.'xqttcnce  c'i 


A\i 


BOLCllEniil'a  CANADA. 


[addenda  Nd.  IS 


.'•  ii 


•■■''': 


i ...  j; 


if 

C*  '•'51-. 


.5i'   ' 


i 


(his  negl<:;ct,  tlicir  produce  has  been  most  materially  retluccd  in 
quanlily.  The  seed,  of  whieh  about  lour  bushels  should  be  al- 
lowed pcrncro,  oug!it  not  lo  be  put  in  the  ground  until  the  wea* 
ther  is  become  warm ;  for  the  young  plants  when  they  begin  to 
shoot  up  are  exceedingly  tender,  and  liable  to  be  injured  if  night 
i'l'osts  happen  in  the  early  period  of  their  growth.  May  is  gener- 
ally the  best  mouth  for  sowing  it ;  but  in  Canada  this  time  must 
be  pointed  out  by  a  correct  knowledge  of  the  climate.  After  the 
seed  is  got  in,  a  light  harrow  should  be  used,  and  nothing  more 
is  requireil  until  it  is  fit  for  pulling;  this  will  be,  in  from  ten  to 
fowrlecn  weeks.  In  hemp  the  njalo  anc  .'I'ninle  plants  are  more 
distinctly  defined  thaii  in  almost  any  other  spci  ies ;  the  former 
bears  a  light  coloured  flowe*',  but  never  i)ioduces  any  seed,  the 
hitler,  on  the  contrary,  yields  the  seed  but  does  not  bear  a  flower. 
Land  is  not  at  all  impovcrisbed  by  th«  gi-owth  of  hemp,  for  after 
a  good  croij)  has  been  pulled,  it  cannot  possibly  be  in  better  condi» 
lion  to  be  laid  under  wheat,  or  indeed  any  thing  else. 

"The  diiferent  soils  both  of  Upper  and  Lower  Canada,  are  like- 
wise adimrably  well  calculated  for  the  growth  of  flax,  an  article 
well  deserv4ng  tlie  faiiner's  consideration,  from  its  yielding,  with 
tolerable  good  management,  a  larger  as  well  as  more  certain 
|»rolit  than  th.e  greater  part  of  other  crops.  Loam,  loam  mixed 
villi  clay,  gravel,  or  sand,  or  clay  alone,  indeed  any  land  but 
•such  as  is  very  wet  or  veiy  sliallow,  is  good  for  raising  it.  On 
warm,  dry  soils  the  sowing  may  commence  in  the  middle  of 
March,  and  continue  according  to  the  condition  and  quality  of 
the  land,  until  the  lirst  week  in  May  ;  but  with  it,  as  with  hemp, 
the  seed  tiine  must  be  guided  by  a  knoVvledge  of  the  climate. 
The  ground  may  he  prcpiH'ed  by  a  moderate  ploughing,  which  is 
*iot  required  to  be  very  deep,  rrom  two  and  a  half  to  three 
■l)uslmls  of  s»eed  per  acre  may  be  sown,  which  must  be  harrowed 
•JM,  or  bush  harrowed,  and  altcrwards  well  rolled.  When  the 
«f>Irtuls  are  from  four  to  six  inches  higii,  care  should  be  taken  to 
iiave  tlicm  well  weeded,  and  then  no  further  attention  is  required 
until  thu  season  for  pulling  arrives.  Jt  remains  on  the  ground 
ftom  twelve  to  sixteen  weeks,  and  is  suflkiently  hardy  not  to  re- 
ceive any  injury  from  night  frosts.  Flax  and  flaxseed,  as  well 
as  hemp,  may  be  produced  in  Canada  fully  equal,  to  say  the  least 
of  it,  to  what  is  obtained  from  any  other  country.     Dut  tliey  have 


[addenda  no.  is 


AtXPEXDA  XO.  I.] 


b;otciicttk*8  Canada. 


xcn 


always  been  so   injudiciously  managed  aficr  pulling,  tliat  tliciV 
Muliiral  good  qualities  liave  been  seriously  deteriorated.     From 
whence  one  miglU  deduce,  that  uidess  a  very  difl'ercnt  system  be 
resorted  to,  no  reasonable  expectation  of  profit  from  growing  it 
ran  be  formed,  and   consequently  few  endeavors  will  be  made  lo 
extend  tbe  cultivation  of  these  valuable  articles.     Cut  to  coujbat 
such  a  supppsition,  1  feel  Infinite  pleasure  in  being  able  to  make 
known  among  my  countrymen  generally,  that  the  process  of 
sleeping  and  dew  rotting  now  in  practice,  whereby  the  fruits  of 
their  labor  liave  been  so  seriously  i si j tired,  niny  be  entirely  su-r 
perceded,  and  henceforward  the  culture  of  these  imporanl  pro- 
ductions may  be  punsued  with  an  absolute  certainty  of  deriving 
an  ample  profit  therefrom.    However  doubtful  this  assertion  may 
appear  to  many,  it  will   nevertheless  be  realised  by  the  use  of 
machines  for  threshing  out  the  seed,  and  separating  the  woody 
from  the  fibrous  parts,  both  of  hemp  and  fiax,  invented  by  JMi% 
Lee,  to  whom  a  patent  has  been  granted  for  hii  highly  valuable 
discovery.     Ffesn  a  minute  and  atlenlivc  inspection  of  this  ma- 
chinery, simple  in  its  construciion  lieyond  all  conception,  as  well 
as  completely  e fleet iial  in  its  performance,  and  from  the  occular 
demonstration  of  the  perfect  success  of  its  operation  I  have  had 
the  satisfav^tion  to  receive  from  this  gentleman  at  his  fiictory,  I 
am  warranted  in  saying  with  the  utmost  confidence,  that  if  it  be 
introduced  irjto  the  British  North  American  colonics,  the  greatest 
benefits  will  be  aerlv^i,  not  only  by  them,  but  by  Circat  Britain 
also.*     As  it  will  stimulate  the  occupiers  of  land  to  pursue   .his 


*  I  have  been  more  minute  in  making  the  foregoing  and  far- 
ther extracts  from  Mr.  IJo.ichelte's  work,  from  a  conviction  that 
any  useful  innovation,  improvement  or  invention  tii?\t  can  be  in- 
troduced into  the  Canadian  provinces^  can  be,  with  at  least  as 
ihuch  utility  adopted  in  the  contiguous  parts  of  the  United  Stales. 
The  culture  of  llax,  has  since  the  extensive  introduction  of  cot- 
ton cloths,  declined  in  the  United  States  :  but  the  benefits  of  the 
change,  in  many  places  may  be  justly  doubted.  Tlie  invention 
of  the  circular  saw,  for  extracting  the  seeij^  from  the  libre  of  cot- 
ton, was  the  epoch  of  the  extension  of  thai  article,  and  its  cheap 
application  to  tbe  wants  of  mankind.  How  fiir  human  genius 
may  obviate  the  expence  to  which  tlie  culture  of  fiax  has  hitherto 
been  subject  it  is  impossible  to  determine ;  if  the  statements  of 
-Mr.  Bouchette  arc  even  partially  correct,  much  is  already  done  on 


•  *M 

XV  111 


BOUCIlEl'tE's  CANAtiA. 


[addknda  .to.  t. 


3'*  t 


•  if", 


'A 

1 


■'  ' 


branch  of  husbniidry  more  thhn  any  prcmhinis  oflered,  or  mcarii 
resorted  to  by  govenimenl,  woukl  be  nble  to  do  under  the  old  me- 
thod. By  the  use  of  this  invention,  the  necessity  oH  steeping  and 
dew  rotting  being  avoided,  the  farmer  having  pulled  his  crop,  has 
nothing  to  do  but  stack  it,  when  sulliciently  dry  for  that  purpose, 
tind  let  it  remain  until  convenient  opportunities  occur  of  bringing 
it  into  a  marketable  state,  which  may  now  be  performed  in  a 
very  few  houi's. 

The  superiority  of  this  mode  of  preparation  is  very  great,  and 
the  advantages  obtained  by  it  in  equal  proportion.  All  thfe  labour 
and  atteiidant  expence  of  steeping,  spreading  and  drying ;  rts 
well  as  the  losses  incident  to  these  operations,  is  ^vholly  saved^ 
The  produce  of  fibre  is  fully  one-third  greater  by  this  than  by 
former  methods;  while  the  fibre  itself  preserves  the  whole  of  its 
natural  sti-ength  unimpaired  by  any  destructive  process.  In 
cleaning  flax  the  whole  of  the  seed  is  preserved,  and  some  parts 
of  the  plant  that  by  steeping  are  entirely  destroyed,  are  now 
saved  to  be  turned  to  a  very  profitable  account.  The  chafT,  for 
instaHce,  is  an  excellent  food  for  horses,  cows,  sheep,  &c.  and 
the  woody  part  when  separated  from  the  fibre,  is  a  strong  manufe, 
particularly  good  as  a  top  dressing  for  wheat;  both  df  these  have 
hitherto  been  wasted.  The  mode  of  using  the  machines  is  so  easy 
tti  to  be  worked  by  women  or  even  children;  they  may,*without 
inconvenience  to  a  family,  be  fixed  in  cottages,  or  the  out-housed 
of  any  description,  so  as  to  furnish  a  constant  in-door  employ- 
ment through  the  winter  months.  Hemp  or  flax  preprred  by  this 
invention  is  found,  from  experiment,  to  be  greatly  superior  in 
strength  to  any  other.  The  most  impartial  criterion,  namely, 
that  of  suspending  a  weight  by  a  line  made  of  different  sorts,  of 
the  same  length,  thickness  and  weight,  has  been  had  recourse  to, 
when  the  one  prepared  in  this  manner  has  supported  more  than 
double  the  weight  of  the  other. 

"  From  many  conservations  I  iiavc  had  with  Mr.  Lee,  on  the 
subject  of  his  patent,  besides  frequent  proofs  of  its  efficacy,  I 
(bel  the  strongest  conviction  that  the  value  of  his  invention  will 
$oon  be  appreciated  when  it  is  introduced  into  Canada.    With 


that  subject,  and  serves  to  shew  how  slowly  the  most  val uable 
discoveriqs  find  their  wav  Into  use. 


4 

m 


[AliDKNDA  ?fO.  Jf, 


ACDENto.V  NO.  i.] 


bOLXllETTL's  CAXAEiA. 


XI  \ 


such  an  impression  on  my  mind,  I  am  ]icrsiia(U:(];  I  ^ddU  be  aid-^ 
ing  to  increase  both  tlic  interest  and  cornrort  of  my  fellow-coun- 
trymen, by  promoting,  as  i'ar  as  lies  in  my  power,  the  general 
Hse  of  so  simple  and  so  well  contrived  an  apparatus.  To  estab- 
lish, in  some  degree,  the  reality  of  wlmt  has  been  adduced,  t 
will  insert  the  following  estimate  of  the  expences  and  produce  of 
one  acre  of  flax,  which  I  have  been  repeatedly  assured  by  llm 
patentee  is  the  result  of  in.iny  years  pr.aclical  experience  as  a 
grower,  and  formed  u()on  such  a  calculation  as  ttny  fair  averago 
crop,  properly  attended  to,  will  not  fail  of  realising  always,  tmii 
most  freqeutly  somewhat  exceed  it. 


d.  1 


EXPENSE  PER  ACRE. 

£  s. 

Rent  of  land,            -            -  -              5  00  oo 

Ploughing  and  harrowing,            -  -        I    10  00 

Sowing,  harrowing,  and  rolling,  *              7  05 

Weeding  by  hand,            -           -  ■»           15  lo 

Pulling  and  setting  up,            -  -              I  00  00 

Three  bushels  of  seed,            -  -             11106 

Cartage  and  stacking,            -  -        -      1  00  00 
Threshing  out  the  seed,  and  cleaning  the  flax 

fltformarket.            -            -  -          8  10  00 


$ 


ds. 


£\9  14  00 


PRODUCE  PER   ACRE. 


10  cwt.  at  60  sliilUngs  per  cwt. 
?  bushels  of  seed  at  los.  per  bushel, 
Chafl;  .  .  -  . 

Manure,  .  -  - 


Ex  pence, 
Proflt,* 


22  22 

6  66 
I    hG 

3  22 

4  44 

7  00 
4  44 

37  77 


.^87  51 


£   s.    iL 

50  00  00 

-  4  10  00 

1  11  06 

S  00  00 

133  33 
20  00 

7  00 

8  88 

£i^   01  06 

169  21 

£\9    14  00 

87  51 

^'18  07  06 

$81   70 

e  most  \'al  ustble 


*  I  have  reduced  this  estimate  to  Federal  money  at  an  allow- 
ance of  4s.  6d.  to  the  dollar.    If  the  data  are  drawn  from  correct 
sources,  the  benefits  ©f  cultivating  flax  amount  to  a  very  seduc- 
tive aggregate.    The  valup  of  cotton,  to  the  cultivator,  does  not 


B.!^?^-''  SI,,' 


% 


|C,> 


V^^!^'. 


:i:v: 


^■^    ".-^ft 


fer^'  f-:i  ■'■■ 


.■^: 


'•  1  ■-■ 


0'  V  ■': 

■■■*  ■''       .  '     » 

*-^'  BOUClIETTfi's  CANADA.  [ADDENDA  XO.  |. 

"  This  account  is  made  out  from  the  ratio  of  agriculttiral  cx- 
pences  iti  England.  Some  of  its  items  are  undoubtedly  diirerent 
from  what  Uioy  would  be  in  the  colonies;  but  the  excess  in  one 
would  be  balanced,  or  nearly  so,  l)y  the  reduction  of  another ; 
and  as  the  prices  allowed  foi  the  produce  are  such  as  the  ordina- 
ry state  of  the  market  will  always  aflbrd,  and  after  making  a 
reasonable  allowance  for  tythes,  freight,  and  other  incidental  ex- 
pences,  the  general  result  is  sufficic-t  to  induce  specvdation  with 
tolerable  fair  prospects  of  success.  It  must  be  also  taken  into 
t'onsideralion,  that  the  expense  of  the  machinery  is  very  modcr 
rate  ;  nor  should  it  escape  r.gtice  that  a  steady  demand  will  bp 
(bund  in  England,  both  for  flax  and  seed  alfairpric.es.* 

?iiuch  exceed  the  b.-^.lanco  here  shewn  in  favor  of  flax  ;  and  if  the 
ordinary  expenccsof  the  respective  places  \yhere  these  two  vege- 
tables e:i!i  Ix;  reared,  are  taken  iiilo  acroimt,  it  would  admit 
doubt  which  of  the  two  j)rn(lucts  promise  the  largest  reward  to 
human  labor.  Rent  of  land  enters  largely  into  the  above  com- 
putation, and  though  the  price  of  land  in  the  U.S.  lyiust  be  also 
cslinialod,  the  interest  of  that  price  wciuld  seldom  (imount  to 
inore  t'lan  one  dollar  per  acre,  even  with  the  addition  of  clearing 
and  fencing;  consequently  the  profit  to  the  citizen  of  the  U.  S, 
would  be  greater,  than  to  the  Etiglish  farmer,  by  the  enormous 
difterenco  of  more  than  <-j!20  j)er  acre. 

*  Flax,  is  now  cultivated  in  many  of  the  njost  thickly  popu- 
lated parts  of  Europe,  in  places,  whert;  from  the  number  of  peo- 
ple and  scarcity  of  land  upqn  which  to  rear  vegetables  and  ani- 
mals for  food,  llax  wotdd  cease  to  be  cultivated  could  the  inhabi- 
tants receive  in  commerce,  that  nmterial  at  a  moderate  price. 
I^  is  only  since  the  introduction  of  the  saw-wheels  for  cleaning 
cotton  from  the  seed,  that  the  rtc  of  that  excellent  vegetable 
\yool  has  liecome  so  prevalent.  Tlie  plough  ifseli',  does  not  pro- 
duce a  greater  comparative  abridgment  of  labour,  than  does  the 
saw-wheels.  Four  horses,  two  men,  iiud  one  boy  will  cleanse, 
])acl;,  anil  enclose  in  bales  per  day  at  least  six  Iiundred  pounds  of 
clean  cotton,  with  a  common  cylinder  of  fifty  saws  ;  in  the  an- 
cient ipode  of  extracting  the  seed  by  hand,  four  pounds  of  clean 
cotton  was  an  excessive  quantity  to  be  cleaned  in  one  day  by  one 
person.  If  the  value  of  the  machinery  and  atte;)dance  are  as- 
sumed at  an  equivalent  often  full  grown  workmen,  there  remains 
n  difference  of  fifteen  to  orie  in  favor  of  the  use  pf  the  saw  xva- 
chinery  in  cleansing  cotton.  It  is  very  probable  that  flax  aud 
liemp  admit  a  rapid  transition  from  the  crudq  plant  to  use,  in  an 
equal  ratip. 


ff"."!!''? 


m 


ADDENDA  XO.  f 

ffricultiir.'il  c\- 
itcdfy  dirreieiit 

excess  ill  one 
>n  of  anolhcr  ; 

as  the  onliiia- 
after making  m 

incidental  ex- 
iccvdalion  willi 
also  lalvon  into 
'  is  verv  njodiv 
demand  will  bp 
•ices.* 

lax  ;  and  if  llie 
these  two  vepc- 
it  would  admit 
irgcsl  reward  to 
the  above  coni- 
S.  ir.ust  be  nl«> 
Jam  pmouut  to 
itiou  of  clearing 
M^n  of  tlie  U.  K, 
y  tbc  enormous 

t  lliickly  popu- 
niiniberof  peo- 
itabies  and  nni- 
uld  the  inbabi- 
inodcrate  price, 
els  for  cleaning 
oilent  vegetable 
r,  does  not  pro- 
tban  does  the 
ly  will  cleanse, 
ndred  pounds  of 
ws  ;  in  the  an- 
(ounds  of  clean 
one  day  by  one 
jiidance  are  as- 
1,  there  remains 
pf  the  saw  pia- 
e  lliat  flax  and 
nt  to  use,  in  ati 


ADDENDA  NO.  X^ 


BOTJCIIETTk's  CANADA. 


XXt 


"  With  respect  to  Iiemp,  it  can  never  be  doul)ted  but  what  his 
majesty's  gov.ernoiient  will  be  again  ready  to  leud  every  support 
and  encQiwagement  to  the  production  of  an  article  in  our  own 
dominions,  i.hai  w«  have  long  been  forced  to  purchase  from 
strangers  ;  wituch  cultivation  meeting  with  success,  in  a  few  years 
may  render  our  country  wholly  independent  of  tlue  uortii  of  Eu- 
rope, for  its  supply,  or  at  any  rate  lit)erate  it  from  the  apprehen- 
sion of  ever  -being  pirt  to  serious  inconvenience  by  any  change  of 
political  sentiments  in  sovereigns.     The  welfare  of  my  native 
province  and  its  pa«ent  state,  has  ever  been  with  me  Ibe  strong- 
«st  inoetitive  to  exertion;  and  a  ray  of  hope  thai  I  may  be  an 
bumble  instrument  towards  promoting  a  pursuit  which  would  re- 
dound to  the  advantage  of  both,  ha.th  occasioned  me  to  enter 
more  largely  into  this  subject  than  I  at  first  intended.     If  n^y  e^ 
pectations  are  4^^oo  sanguine  to  be  borne  out  by  the  opinions  of 
persons  j^nore  cnliglrtened  thereon  than  I  can  pretend  to  be,  I 
would  much  rather  they  would  be  attributed  to  an  erroneous 
judgment,  than  9-  willingness  to  commit  myself  to  the  chance  of 
nnsleading  .a  single  individual,  by  h^a^rdiqg  any  ungu,arded  or 
Vi\foimdeU  repiresentations. 

<*  To  ascertain,  iu  tbc  seaJe  of  importance,  to  what  degree  the 
North  Araerioan  colonies  rise,  their  present  value,  and  now  mucit 
tliat  value  is  capable  c*'  being  inci-eased,  it  is  necessary  to  take  a 
view  of  their  commercial  concerns,  in  order  to  lying  tlieir  re- 
sources fairly  before  us.  In  attempting  to  introduce  this  subject, 
I  feel  no  small  degree  of  diffidence,  from  the  reflection  that  it  is 
one  much  out  of  the  line  of  my  professional  pursuits,  in  the  dis- 
cussion of  which  erroneous  opinions  are  very  liable  tp  intrude, 
and  that  by  tneddlinjj  with  it  I  may  be  blam,ed  by  many  for  the 
imperfect  pcrforjiiance.  My  object  is  to  attr;act  to  this  point  tlie 
attention  of  men  well  informed  on  the  intricate  questions  of  mert 
<jantile  policy,*  in  the  hope  that  some  much  abler  pen  tlian  mine, 

•  In  discivssing  this  very  important  subject,  Mr.  Poucli^tte,  with 
all  his  modesty,  is  infinitely  more  competent  than  me.  Our  pro- 
fessional pursuits  were  indeed  similar,  and  as  fi^r  as  those  pur- 
suits tend  to  disqualify  us  for  examining  the  arcana  of  trade,  our 
intellectual  impediments  are  equal :  but  in  an  intimate  know- 
ledge of  Canada,  an<l  of  course  with  the  adjacent  regions,  Mr. 
Boucliette  has  no  rival;  therefore  his  opinions  where  not  warpe4 
ji)y  political  or  national  feeUngs,  arc  eatitled  to  great  credit.    | 

.S 


i.<i/: 


'■T>i 


fU7-.  .Si. 


« 

. 

m^  .^^ 

i'.^it^' ' 

i' 

*     ,      ; 

.' 

-J 


>dLU' 


pOUChiS Tlii  8  CANADA. 


[addenda  no  I, 


f).iay,  at  no  remote  period,  place  jt  in  ti  more  clear  and  palpable  stale^ 
rather  than  to  promote  decision  by  any  obsefvplions  of  my  own. 
The  extent  of  my  endeavors  will  be  limited  to  conveying  some 
general  ideas  of  tlic  capabilities  possessed  by  tli^sc  provinf^cs,  of 
rising;  into  commercial  greatness,  jf  ^heir  intercjls  be  attended  to 
and  protected.  The  situfition  of  both  Upper  and  l^ower  Canada, 
are  replete  >yjth  conveniences  for  trade.  The  great  extent  and 
many  ports  of  file  St.  Lawrence  accessible  to  ships  of  considera* 
ble  |)iirthpn  ;  its  inland  navigation  even  to  the  extremity  of  the 
lakes;  the  nnmerous  rivers  and  streams  which  fall  into  it)  by 
whiph  produce  of  all  kinds  may  be  conveyed  from  the  mpst  dis- 
tant scttljemcnts  to  Quebec/  or  other  places  Qi  shipment,  pjiei( 

have  mi*  >'y  Iranscribed  this  gentleman's  speculations  on  Ca- 
nadian CO  .  ,  .i-w  because  1  am  aware  that  his  observations  con-; 
c^rn  the  ini  3*tani^  of  the  contiguous  states  and  territprips  of  t{]Q 
United  States,  if  pi:  >  ble  pyen  more  than  the  pprsons  to  whom 
his  words  are  addressed*  VVith  the  single  ej{ception  of  its  freez- 
ing in  winter,  the  St.  Lawrence  does  certainly  possess,  in  plimate, 
soil,  productions  natural  and  artificial,  an'4  in  present  culture, 
resources  far  beyond  wliat  the  people  of  the  United  States  have 
any  adequate  conception.  In  t]ip  revolutions  of  powei,  first  im- 
pressions are  terrible  weapons;  in  the  changes  of  commprfie,  pre- 
vious establishments  are  rocks  of  tidfijnttnt.  If  the  rich  and  hour- 
ly increasing  products  of  the  St.  Lawrpnce  valley  once  flow  to 
Montreal,  to  that  city  will  they  flow,  maugre  all  that  legal  prohi- 
bition, or  even  tlie  suggestions  of  private  convenience  can  op- 
pose to  the  current-  Though  our  independence  politically,  is  se- 
cured beyond  the  reach  of  British  rivalry,  it  is  the  only  instance 
where  we  are  independent  of  that  active  ^nd  insidjous  govern- 
ment. Unfortunately  we  have  citizens  so  piurally  dependant,  as 
to  induce  them  to  expend  the  frufts  of  their  talents  to  prevent  our 
entire  emanpipation* 

♦  This  is  only  correct  in  its  fidl  extent  bplow  the  Falls  of  Nia- 
gara; that  cataract  forniing  a  formidable  interruption  to  the  na- 
vigation of  the  waters  of  the  St.  Lawrepce.  Indeed  the  ship 
conveyance  in  that  river  and  its  connecting  Ifikes  are  naturally 
divided  into  foiHr  sections,  separated  by  irremovable  inipediments  : 
first  section,  from  Montreal  downwards  to  the  gulf ;  second,  froni 
Niagara  to  Ogdensburg ;  ships  might  descend  below  the  latter 
village  about  five  miles,  to  the  head  of  the  Grand  Gallop  Island 
and  Rapids,  but  no  incentive  does  now,  or  probably  ever  will  ex- 
ist, to  induce  owners  of  vessels  to  f^U  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Oswegatchic.  The  third  section  includes  lakes  Eric,  Huron,  Mi- 
chigan, and  the.mouths of  their  confluents,  between  the  Fallsof 


Jr«.f 


ADDENDA  NO    I, 


xxlii 


A^tfKSDA  NO.  jl.J  30UpIlS TTIp's  jQANADA. 

jjfreatcr  facilities  to  nicrcaiijjlc  speculsitioua  limn  perhaps  any 
other  couutry  can  olfer.  'jThis  i  ivtr  is  thp  Qj^ly  channel  by  which 
tlio  con^modilics  of  the^e  tjyo  proyincefj  fnid  their  way  to  distant 
lotnitries,  and  is  jjlsp  by  fur  the  most  natural,  as  well  as  njost  ca- 
.sily  OAuilahle  egrer^s  for  sucb  producliqus  of  U^  djstrict^  of  th|a 
United  Slates  that  l^e  c.ontiguous  lo  its  southern  bank,  as  they  aie 
al^lc  to  furnish  beyond  theifown  coijsumption.  Prohibitory  law^ 
04  the  AnicricJin  Seuale,  In^ve,  indeed,  of  late  been  pass(,il  to 
|aar  its  subjects  from  exportation  by  ihi.s  rqi^te  j  bu^  they  hft.vj; 
not  obta/ncd  so  much  allei^tion  as  it  vvps  jijiagined  they  .would.l* 
A.  very  l^rgc  tract  qf  fertile  country  oil  ihqir  side  of  the  border, 
fs  thicfcly  settled  and  in  high  cultivation ;  the  industry  of  its  in- 
habitants alwayj^  insures  a  large  di^po^abl^  s^ock  of  the  fruits  of 
their  labors,  which  the  vigilance  a^id  invention  of  a  speq^lativc 
disposition  wil^  jiot  fail  to  discovjifr  means  of  ti'anslijrring  to  thjC 
rie^diest  nnirktjt,  in  dijgpile  of  enactments  Jhgt  »r  lo  l,c,9S  disa- 
grceabid;  thai^  dij^advantageous.  By  fostering  th.  ir  rcourse, 
Ca/iada  woyld  alwayg  secure  a  Vast  ;^dditi(^r^  o^  ^rtiru  s  of  the 
iirst  necessity;  in  aid  of  its  own  surplus  produce,  to  nieet  a  gr^aC 
increase  of  its  export  trade,  were  that  trade  relieved  by  the  Bri- 
tish govgrninent  froin  soine  of  the  impedimentr.  thrown  in  its  \yay 
by  existing  regulations,  that  are  highly  f^vo..  .iile  to  Americaj; 
•commerce. 

^^  The  priucipal  exports  i'yofjn  the  Canadas,  consist  of  new  sliip^, 
^ak  and  pin,c  timber,  deals,  insists  and  bow^spritS;  spar,s  of  all  de- 
uominalions,  slri.ves,  pot  and  pearl  ashes,  peltry,  wheat,  flouf,  -bis- 
^uit,  Indian  corn^  puUe,  salt  provisions,  fish,  and  some  other  mis- 
Niagara  and  the  §ant  jjt.  Mary.  The  fourth  section  is  coinj?o>- 
eJ  of  lake  Superji^r  and  its  ct^nfluent  ri.v<;rs.  The  c<?mmer4^e  of 
the  first  >wo  (livisions,  will  naturally  pass  to  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec :  timt  of  the"  latter  two,  will,  if  the  New-^ork  canal  was  fi- 
nished, in  great  part  puAS  through  that  conveyen(w  into  the  Hiid- 
cuu 

•  The  most  efficacious  prohibition  wouid  be  a  water  rout^, 
open  longer,  leading  to  a  better  market,  and  included  within  our 
own  couutry.  f.aws  thai  contravene,  to  any  great  dcgre(?,  the 
passions  or  avidilv  of  mankind,  ha»e  betii,  and  always  will  be, 
nugatory.  Tlie  imiversality  of  severe  neunl  statutes  against  du- 
elling, and  the  almost  equal  ubiquiiy  of  that  practic-,  is  a  loud 
speaking  comuKMitary  on  what  I  l;a\e  aUvaJiced  above. 


•v:  . 


5'  ;* 


liir^'     .' 


v.v. 


!   '   I* 


?    V 


r'    ij 


f  *  I 


XXIV 


BOUCHETTC'S  CANADA. 


[addenda  mo.  I. 


•1  , 


r 


cellaneous  articles,  employing  generally  ai)ont   1 50,ooo  Ions  of 
i^hipping.     In  this  enumeration,  tlie  articles  of  primary  const> 
quence  to  England,  are  the  growtii  of  the  forests,  whether  consi- 
dered as  the  source  of  employment  to  British  ships  and   native 
sailors  in  the  carriage  of  it,  if  they  were  ahle  to  contend  for  the 
freights  against  the  indulgences  granted  to  their  opponents;  or  as 
to  their  being  o!  great  and  continued  consumption,  therefore  of 
Indispensible  necessity.     Since  the  year  1 806,  the  timber  trade  of 
the  colonies,  but  of  the  Canadns  in  particular,  increased  ^n  nii 
extraordinary  degree,  until  the  state  of  the  country  at  the  com- 
mencement of  liostiHties  with  America  not  only  checked^  its  fur- 
ther progress,  but  from  very  obvious  causes,  reduced  it  below  the 
$tandai*d  of  former  years.     This  diminution,  however,  njust  be 
considered  only  accidental,  and  totally  unconnected  with  the  re- 
sources of  the  trade,  which,  according  to  the  most  discreet  me- 
thods of  calculation,  is  not  only  adequate  to  supply  abundantly 
the  demand  of  the  British  West-India  islands  with  square  timber, 
planks,  deals,  staves,  and  whatever  comes  under  the  general  name 
of  lumber,  but  to  furnish  a  large  proportion  of  the  same  for 
the  use  of  Great  Britain.     Tiiis  ability  it  was,  and  perhaps  with 
many  may  be  still  the  fashion  to  consider  problematical ;  but  let 
the  return  of  exports  from  1806  to  1810  be  examined,  and  it  v.ill 
be  readily  seen,  that  in  these  four  years  they  advanced  from 
about  100,000  to  375,000  tons  from  a,ll  the  provinces,  of  which 
nearly  one  half  was  trom  Quebec  alone.     To  meet  this  demand, 
i»o  difficulties  were  encountered  in  procuring  the  necessary  quan- 
tities, either  with  respect  to  the  nundier  of  hands  to  be  employed 
in  colIevHing  it,  or  any  thing  like  a  failure  in  the  forests ;  and  hail 
it  feeen  a&  large  again,  it  might  have  been  answered  with  propor- 
tionate facility.    Within   the  period  cited,  the  increase  of  this 
trade  in  the  Canadas  only  was  much  more  than  equivalent  to  the 
total  consumption  of  the  West-India  islands,  estimated  at  142,Q0() 
tons,  which  is  but  little  less  than  half  the  quantity  annually  rcqui- 
i-ed  for  the  use  ot  the  royal  navy.     The  export  of  timber  in  this 
year,  is,  perhaps,  tl»^;  greatest  of  any  that  has  taken  place,  yet  the 
ease  with  which  it  vas  procured  is  certainly  an  argument  that 
weighs  strongly  against  the  assertion,  that  the  North  American 
colonies  are  unable  to  supply  'he  necessities  of  the  VV  est-lndics. 
"  With  respect  to  the  expor.ation  of  flour  and  giain,  the  pra- 


"i 

It.-  : 


lduenua  ^o.  (. 


ADDIKOA  NO.  I.] 


BOUCHETTE  »  CANADA. 


XXV 


gross  is  ftot  certainly  so  satisfactory  ns  that  oftimberj*  yet  this 
circumstance  is  far  from  being  conchisive  of  inabihty  to  furnish 
such  quantities  as  are  required  for  the  use  of  tlic  West-India  isl- 
ands, wliose  aiMiunI  demand  for  flour,  grain,  and  biscuit,  is  com- 
j>ut-d  at  sometliing  more  tlian  1,200,000  bushels.  Of  this  quan- 
tity, Canada  has  hitherto  seldom  exported,  upon  an  average,  but 
little  moi«  than  a  third  part.  So  great  a  disparity  of  numbers,  is 
iini  a  sullicient  reason  to  abandon,  without  some  further  reflec- 
tion, the  supposition,  that  the  supply  may  be  made  to  equal  the 
demand.  Inmiediately,  indeed,  it  could  not;  but  after  the  lapse 
of  a  very  few  years,  may  not  so  desirable  an  object  be  obtained, 
when  the  good  cflects  of  a^i  improved  system  of  agricultural 
management,  and  to  the  encouragement  of  which  the  most  rigid 
attention  onglit  to  be  paid,  begin  to  show  themselves,  combined 
with  such  measures  as  would  make  it  the  interest  of  the  people  of 
the  well  cultivated  countries  of  the  United  States  that  lie  contigu- 
ous to  our  frontier,  to  bring  their  disposable  produce  to  the  ports 
of  the  St.  Lawrence  ?  The  foundation  of  these  advantages  would 
certainly  be  laid,  were  the  colonial  merchants  placed  in  a  situa- 
tion to  contend  against  those  of  America,  in  supplying  the  isl- 
ands. Until  the  commencement  of  hc3tililies  with  us,  the  latter 
enjoyed  the  proflts  of  supplying  our  West-Indian  possessions, 
both  with  provisions  and  liunber,  and  which  were,  in  fact,  secured 
to  ihem  by  an  act  that  passed  the  British  parliament,  in  1807, 
whereby  the  privy  council  was  authorised  to  suspend  the  opera- 
tions of  the  Act  i2th  Charles  the  Second,  excluding  foreign  ships 
from  trading  with  the  English  colonics.  Under  favor  of  this  suspen- 
sion,they  employed  an  immense  number  of  ships  in  this  trade,every 
ton  of  which  was  a  manifest  detriment  both  to  our  provinces  and 

•  When  in  Canada,  several  judicious  persons  resident  i  •.  that 
country,  expressed  to  me  their  opinion,  that  the  lumber  trade  was 
the  greatest  existing  impediment  to  the  prosperity  and  improve- 
ment of  the  people,  as  it  employed  their  active  able  bodied  labor- 
ing niieu  in  that  part  of  the  year  that  ought  to  be  appropriated  to 
agriculture.  There  is  little  doubt,  but  that  timber  trade  is  a  very 
uhprodoclive  branch  of  commerce,  and  that  a  country  must  re- 
main at  least  in  a  dependant  and  precarious  condition,  where 
much  attention  is  paid  to  an  application  of  industry,  where  the 
profits  are  so  small  compared  with  the  necessary  exertion  and 
consumption  of  time. 

82. 


*  >: 


vr« 


\ 

I  > 


ft'  ^. 


if.-; 

1 

4 

h  '■'  .    - 

li;'.  '        '.,' 

.5, 

1'^  " 

H.^     • 

^v    <' 

r^^    , 

■^ 

r^^'"'      i 

1       '        ' 

M? 

'^«    - 

1 

M 

'M 

1 

our  romincrcia!  navy.  Tl»**  lnlmiMl'on  or  Amrrirnn  pfortiice  iiitr/ 
the  ports  of  GirBt  Biitnin,  upon  paying  the  ^iimv  chitics  only  nff 
arc  chHrpc'd  upon  the  impoitnti«in  of  jiirhilnr  nrtirlo*  from  onr 
own  colonies,  i-*  nnother  very  powerful  check  np<m  iheir  prospe- 
rity which  frofti  thes^  ^nriotis  ton>hinati6^s  nguinat  it,  will  expe- 
rience much  ditrjcnlty  in  rising  to  the  eminence  it  wouUI  Speedily 
ntloin,  if  thrit  country,  srt  recently  censed  to  i)e  an  invetcrnt^r 
enemy,  l)C  ^ot  agaiti  placed  by  the  liberiility  of  the  British  po- 
verriment  in  i^  fituntion  to  infipede  its  progress,  and  he  herealler 
viewed  in  th^  sHinb  light,  and  put  uprn  a  par  with  6ther  foreign 
nfations,  in  reaped  tW  restriHir^ns  ftritl  co^m(erva?ling  jJuties ;  then 
ihe  North  American  j»i-ovinces  will  soon  greatly  improve  their  in- 
ternal situhtidnj  and  ihfe  mothef  eount'v  derive  such  henefit 
from  thern  n«  w?ft  rertctfer  her  more  independent  of  other  natinnft 
for  supplies  of  the  first  importance,  than  »he  has  hitherto  been.'* 

TTopn;:raphical  Dfacrtption  of  the  rrovincp  of  Lorvfr  Vanattn, 
with  remarlat  upon  Upper  Canada.  Jhj  Jo^kph  BovcAtTrlj; 
EsO.      fcotlrfort,  1 8  1 5       i^fl^f  57— »5.] 


0 


<■■*,- 


",■•'1 


n  pfoHucc  intrZ 
rill  ties  only  nfi 
irliA  i'rani  onr 
n  ilieir  pvospp- 
st  ?(,  will  c'xpr- 
woiild  Kprodily 
H  Hii  invcUcinWf 
tlie  Hrkisli  po- 
d  be  liernalttM- 
6thpr  forrigiTf 
i^Mlntiesj  tUvn 
•prove  tfieir  in- 
such    Lfuelit 
f  otFier  iialMMift 
itbertobrni.'* 

Lojcfr  CanadHy 


.-irDENDA  KO.  II.]  OKNERAL  RKMAHKf  • 


xxvit 


J^O.  II. 

GENERAL  REMARKS. 

THE  h>icgoifig  corrrspbiidencc  nnd  cxtrafcts,  cbntuins  (iw 
Substance  of  my  own  peisbnni  obsei  vntions,  and  such  explanato- 
l-y  mailer  from  oUieiS,  As  I  could  Collect  during  my  tour,  and 
since  its  (crmination  ;  I  caimot,  however,  take  leave  of  the  read- 
cr,  wiihoiil  claiming  Itis  palibncc  during  a  recopilulhtlbn,  and  an 
cxaniinatioii  of  ^ome  extraneous  matter,  which  was  not  included 
ill  my  original  lettcrs>  thbiigli  of  some  importance  to  ttlucidate  the 
topography  of  the  fcountry  oVfer  wliich  I  ranged.  1  am  aware 
that  suth  producllonsas  mine,  where  few  perSohaJ  incident*  are 
introduced,  must  driiw  their  interest  from  the  gebgrftphical  in- 
furmntion  they  may  contain.  It  has  been  my  endeaVor  to  throw 
nS  much  light  as  in  my  po^vfer,  upon  the  naiiiial  structure,  and 
j)resent  improvements  of  the  tia»*t  over  wlich  I  ranged  j  how  fdif 
I  have  SucctJtdbd,  is  now  before  the  retider.  There  is  one  bbject 
of  general  interest,  upon  which  more  is  perhaps  expected  from 
me  than  I  t!an  fulfil ;  that  is,  the  Grand  Canal  nbw  in  progress  in 
the  slatiB  of  NteW-York.  On  the  Subject  of  this  truly  great  work, 
I  have  beleiS  bai-eful  tb  collect  all  the  information  1  could  procure, 
and  hdvc  now  presented  the  result  to  the  public.  Not  having  vi- 
sited nallston  0)7  Saratoga  Springs,  I  addressed  a  letter  to  thie  Rev. 
IleUl)leh  Sear$j  desiring  that  ^ntlettian  to  give  mc  suclr  informa- 
tion txh  he  possicsS&d,  respecting  these  places  of  public  resort.  Mr. 
Sears  Very  politely  and  satisfactorily  replied  to  my  letter ;  hiS  an* 
swer  I  have  tlimexed  to  this  Addenda,  conHdent  that  it  contains 
much  vahinble  statistical  tnattier. 

In  my  lc'*er  to  Mr.  C.  G.  Haines,  t  bave  explained  nly  views 
of  the  connexions  that  nature  seertis  to  liave  designed  betwefen 
New-York  and  Pennsylvania,  and  can  add  but  little  in  this  place 
to  what  I  then  stated.  From  the  demonstrations  I  have  given  of 
the  true  respective  levels,  between  the  head  waters  of  the  branch- 
<is  of  Ohio  liver  and  those  »vhich  flow  into  lake  Erie,  the.  foima- 


^h 

:,!' 


mm'- 


■1^  r. 


If,:; 


If.  {» 


t«  I. 


J;t.  ■' 


It',.'  ■ 


Ifi  ■^i■ 
l('■•■■; 


xKvm 


QFNERAl  KEMAtlKS.  [AD»£NDA  S6.  It. 


tion  of  water  communicaliDn  b«»twepn  these  strenms  must  be  attend  - 
ad  with  great  dilliculty.  We  will  now  proceed  to  examine  some  ot 
the  varH>u$  intetidfed  ehainnels  of  intercommunication  between  the 
JVlississippi  ttttd  St.  Lawrenee  rallies,  and  also  the  roatcs  of  ttie 
iwo  New- York  canals. 

No  doubt  flow  remains,  but  that  the  Chicago  and  Tllrnois  riverj:. 
aflbrd  by  far  the  most  eligible  natural  connexion  between  the 
nor'therft  and  southern  waters  of  the  United  States.     It  appdin-y 
that  the  great  spinfc  running  from  the  Hudson  to  the  Manmee  ri- 
\etj  terminates  atj  or  ife  interrupted  by  the  valley  of  the  Illinois. 
The  latter  stream  is  formed  towi;rds  its  source  by  two  branches^ 
one  of  wliich  lises  south  of  Ir.ke  IVlichignn,  and  the  other  (river 
Plein,)  rises  in  the  flat  country  west  of  the  Chicago,  and  flowin|* 
^outh,  unite  to  the  south-west  Of  the  extreme  south  part  of  Mi- 
chigan.    The  Chicago  lieads  in  the  same  plain  with  the  river 
Plein,  and  winding  for  some  distance  p«lallel  to  the  latter  stsoani, 
thence  tilrnS  east,  falls  into  lake  Michigan.     Tlie  Chicago  and 
Plein  intfcrmingie  their  sources,  and  aflbrd  one  of  those  instances 
where  rivers  have  their  sources  in  plains,  so  nearly  approacliing 
the  curve  of  a  real  sphere  as  to  leave  for  the  discharge  of  the 
waters  scarce  inclination  sufficient  to  determine  their  courses. 
This  is  the' case  with  the  two  rivers  we  are  now  reviewing.     The 
precise  descent  of  the  Chicago,  from  its  nearest  approach  to  the 
Plein,  to  the  level  of  Idke  Michigan  has  never  been  ascertained, 
but  it  is  known  to  be  without  falls,  or  even  rapids.     Tlic  Plein 
also  flows  with  a  very  slight  current,  and  the  two  streams  present 
tilmoKt  a  strait  between  the  Mississippi  river  and  lake  Michigan.* 


.  i)ij- 


'                               1 

'■                11 

'        '                    1 

*  i'lie  following  mtcrcMin^  notice,  decides  tlie  long  contested 
|>roblem  of  a  natural  water  comnumication  between  the  waters 
*)f  the  St.  Lawrence  and  Mij>si.<;sippi  rivers,  and  contains  also 
some  other  items  of  valuable  inlbrmationi 

JTRlbM  ThK  ST.  l.bt'is  kNQl  IRKti. 

•  "  Commtinieation  nitk  the  /«Ai»s.— Messrs.  Gialiam  and  Phillips^ 
chmmissioners  on  the  part  of  the  United  States,  and  Mr.  Sulli- 
vaii,  surveyor,  have  set  out  to  lake  Michigan,  to  mark  the  l)^unda- 
ry  lines  of  the  lands  ceded  to  the  United  States  by  the  Ottawa, 
C3hippe\va,  and  Potto«attilna  Irtdians  in  the  summer  of  the  yeai* 


)CNDA  Nd.  If, 


ADttSNDA  NO.  It.^ 


GENERAL  REMARKSt 


xxix 


the  land  contiguous  to  this  impoUant  |)asS,  wns  ceded  to  tlie 
United  States^  by  the  savage  tribes  who  formerly  possessed  the 
rigilt  of  soil.  The  land  thus  ceded^  is  now  about  being  sur- 
veyed, and  in  course  will  ere  long  be  sold  to  individuals  and  set- 

«  They  will  run  a  line  from  the  southern  extremity  of  this  lake, 
to  the  Mississippi. 

"  The  Indians  iiave  ceded  to  the  United  StateSj  what  lies  to 
the  south  of  this  line. 

"  The  commissioners  will  run  two  other  lines  from  the  south- 
western part  of  lake  Michigan,  to  the  Illinois  river.  Tiie  lines 
will  be  parallel  to  each  other,  and  twenty  miles  apart.  They  will 
begin  in  the  shore  of  the  lake,  at  poiiits  ten  mites  norlli  and  south 
of  Chicago,  and  will  embrace  the  little  rivers  ChicHiro  and  Plein, 
and  the  carrying  place  between  them,  which  form  the  ••Iwuiiiel  of 
communication  between  lake  Michigan  and  the  Illinois  rivei'* 
The  Indians  have  ceded  to  the  United  States,  this  important  pass, 
with  ten  miles  i..''  country  on  each  side  pf  it,  and  it  is  the  busi- 
]iess  of  the  commissioners  to  mark  out  the  limits  of  the  grant, 
that  the  American  government  may  reduce?  it  to  possession 

"  The  communication  between  the  lake  and  the  Illinois,  is  a 
point  which  will  fix  the  attention  of  the  merchant  ami  the  stutrs- 
man.  They  will  see  in  it  the  gale  which  is  to  open  the  northern 
seas  into  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  and  which  is  to  connect 
New- York  and  New-Oiioans  by  a  water  line  which  the  conjbincd 
navies  of  the  world  caiuiot  cut  oft".  Never  did  the  woi  k  of  na- 
ture require  so  little  from  the  hand  of  art,  to  complete  so  great  a 
design ! 

"  The  lakes  Superior,  Huron,  Erie,  and  Ontario,  lie  from  west 
to  east,  \i}  the  direction  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  nianifeslly  seeking 
their  outlet  through  the  valley  of  that  river.     But  the  Michigan 
departs  from  that  direction  :  she  lays  from  north  to  south.     Uni- 
ted to  the  other   lakes  by  a  strait,  she  stretches  the  body  of  her 
water  down  towards  the  head  ol"  ilie  Illinois  liver,  as  if  intending 
to  disciiarge   herself  through  that  chamiel  into  the  Mississippi. 
And  no  lulls  or  mountains  intervene  to  incvcMil  the  conjunction; 
o:\  the  contrary,  the  grouml  between   is  ilat,  and  covered  with 
pouds  in  wel  weather,  which  turn  their  waters  partly  to  the  hike 
and  partly  to  the  river.     The  Chicago  end  the  Plein  are  the 
drains  fi  om  these  ponds  ;  they  have  neither  falls  nor  shoals :  they 
liave  not  the  character  of  streams,  but  of  canj's;  the  water 
hardly  moves  in  Iheir  deep  and  narrow  channels.     The  Illinois 
itself  is  more  a  canal  than  a  river,  having  hardly  current  enough 
to  bend  the  lolYy  grass  which  grows  in  its  bed.     The  French  of 
Canada  and  of  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  have  connnunicated 
through  this  channel  since  the  settlement  of  the  countries.     In 
high  water,  boats  of  ten  or  n  dozen  tons,  pass  >.ithout  olistruc- 


1^- 
■'  'i 


k\ 


a' 


pi:-- 


XXX 


(JENCRAL  hEMAnKS.  [aDDEMIJI  n6.  J!^. 


■ ' « ' 


-Tr 


I, 'fi 


tleil.  Tlio  dcvelopemcnl  of  tlie  natural  resources  of  this  region, 
\\'\\\  ho  disclosed  widi  the  ordinary  celorily,  Ihnl  marks  the  newly 
fstiihlishctl  ^ettlenieiits  in  oin*  western  world. 

The  conrw;  of  lake  Michigan  cniitrihutes  in  some  measure  to 
diminish  the  natural  advantages  of  its  connexion  with  the  Illinois. 
'J'he  month  of  the  Calumet  rivfcr,  or  southern  pait  6f  lake  Mi- 
€;higan,  is  near  N.  lat.  43;  whilst  the  straits  of  MIchilinmkinao 
is  ahout  45",  40',  making  n  difterenccof  latitude  of  3^,  40'.  This 
flUfelenee  of  genera phirul  position  o.xpoJt^s  the  two  extremes  of 
hike  INIichigan  to  groat  variety  of  climate;  the  navigation  of  the 
iiorthern  part  Im  ir.g  ainuially,  and  of  thcsoulhrrn  finjuently  im- 
J>e^ied  hy  ice.  J  have  riniroxcd  to  this  Addenda,  (ahles  which  will 
rxhihit  Mio  relative  disianc<  from  the  city  of  New- York  to  St. 
Lonis  hv  (he  (\'uia(lian  lakes  "nd  hv  the  Ohio  river.  These 
lOJites,  h(^wever,  are  fo  difiercnt  from  each  other,  in  climate,  fa- 
cilities, and  impediment,  that  Very  little  accu.-atc  induction  caii 
be  (haw n  front  their  respective  length  to  determine  a  preference. 

It  can  scarce  he  douhted,  hut  that  beyond  BufTalo)  when  the 
xnntigtious  countries  are  ofpuilly  inhahited,  the  Illinois  river  and 
Cai;adian  Inkcs  vill  form  the  channel  of  eonimunication  with  the 
upper  wateis  of  the  Mississippi,  in  preferente  to  the  route  hy 
the  Ohio.  The  nnvigation  of  the  latter  river  is  suhject  to  great 
embarrassmeni  from  frost,  and  long  dry  \veather  in  the  fall  sea- 
yon.  So  much  of  the  iiorilwrrn  channel  of  commerce  permitib 
the  use  of  vessels  of  con^i(!erflhle  tonnr.^'o,  that  transportation 
from  BuHulo  trt  Chicago,  will  be  less  expensive  thiin  that  of  any 
equal  distance  hy  the  Ohio  route.  If  the  people  of  the  United 
dilates  ought  to  eVtr  unite,  in  Opening  any  chaenel  bf  conmiimi- 

tion.  In  the  dry  .<cor,son,  Diey  are  unloaded,  placed  on  vehicles, 
iind  drawn  by  oxen  o\»'r  tl  pottage  ol  a  few  miles,  iind  launelied 
Into  the  river  or  lukr,  as  thl'  Crmrse  of  the  voyagti  Inay  require. 
Jliindreds,  my  thousihids  of  b.ials  have  been  seen  at  St  I^oui.-', 
which  had  nui-le  a  siniil.ir  passage. 

'•  It  may  be  lio|t<'d  that  ilie  'overnment  will  not  limit  itself  to 
"the  b.irien  wink  of  marUiJig  the  liru's  about  this  port.^ge.  While 
the  state  of  New-York  (»pOns  a  eanal  of  three  liundMfd  miles,  the 
federal  goveiinnent  should  r)ot  be  appalled  at  undertaking  one  of 
three  hundred  rods.  It  might  be  dug  in  the  time  that  a  long- 
winded  member  of  Ctrit'grejs  would  make  a  fpecch  again,st  iti^ 
tuiislitiitloualitv.'' 


iNi)A  Nb.  ft. 

I  tljis  region, 
Is  llie  newly 

measure  to 
I  the  Illinois. 
6f  lake  Mi- 
liiliniakinac 
^  40'.  This 
extremes  of 
l;atii;n  of  the 
rerjuently  im- 
lles  which  will 
-York  to  St. 
i'ver.  These 
1  climate,  fa'- 
nduction  cait 
a  prefereiicfe. 
loj  wiieii  the 
nois  river  and 
ation  with  the 

0  the  route  hy 
iiliject  to  great 
n  the  fall  sea- 
inerce  permits 
transportation 
n  that  of  anv 
of  the  United 

bf  commiiiii- 

'd  on  vehiclr*;. 
itnd  Inttiiclied 
Inay  require. 

1  at  St  Jjouis, 

limit  Itself  to 
it.^ge.  While 
iMrd  rniles,  the 
taking  one  of 

that  a  long- 
^li  against  its 


AhDEXDA  NO.  fl,]  OEXEnAt.  HEMAKKS. 


.\XXl 


•ration,  it  ts  that  by  the  Illinois  rivnr  and  lake  Michigan.  If  the 
^a^ious  points,  from  St.  Louis  lo  BulValo,  were  united  hy  commer- 
rial  facility,  a  numerous  population  would  he  the  inittiediate  con- 
fequence,  a  population  that  would  spirrtd  a  shield  before  the  in- 
terior parts  of  our  Coinitry,  atiM  would  give  a  prepondevHnt.-  up- 
on  \Ue  St,  Lawrence  waters,  to  the  people  of  the  United  States, 
whirh  In  future  wins  would  prevent  a  iepi!iti<m  of  some  of  the 
flisastmiis  events  of  the  late  contest  with  <Hea»  Britain 

With  the  partiruhir  ferttines  of  the  counti/  around  lake  Ml- 
rhigan,  1  ath  (niacr|uainM>d,  but  fjom  all  the  scattered  information 
f  have  j)eeh  able  tb  pfoL'urc,  1  am  iiulu^ed  to  believe  thai  the 
shores  r.f  lakes  Krib  and  JVlichigan  are  in  a  grent  pfirt  siiniinr,  and 
jf  such  is  idie  factj  the  latter  is  environed  with  shores  possessing 
all  the  att'lbutes  ne^lessary  to  permit  a  dense  nn«l  flourisiiing  set- 
t'ement.  That  pnrt  of  the  Michigari  peninsula,  projecting  along 
l!ie  .south-west  sidebf  lake  f'mon,  is  equal  in  soil  to  nny  olh;n"  ter- 
ritory of  so  gleat  e.\ti?ht  in  the  St.  Lawrence  valley,  or  perhaps  in 
any  country.  l>om  Butlalo  lb  Chicago,  is  a  distjiure,  following 
the  inflections  of  the  shores,  of  850  tnih.'s;  atid  including  i!ic 
western  and  northern  bank.s  of  lake  Michisnn,  of  !,'2()0  miles.  If 
we  allow  only  the  extension  of  20  miles  from  the  margin  of  the 
lakes  ft>r  settlement,  we  have  a  fine  border  irontnining  24,0',:o 
Jiquare  miles;  to  whirh  if  we  add  an  eriual  widlli  along  the  Chi- 
'cago,  Ijliiioisj  and  Mississij)pi  rivers,  to  St.  Louis,  400  miles  in 
length,  the  aggregate  will  produce  an  entire  siuface  of  32,0(X) 
square  miles,  or  19,480,ooo  acres;  and  at  the  very  thin  popula- 
tion of  50  persons  to  the  square  mile,  ^vt»uld  contain  I.^oo.coo 
people.  That  the  soil  of  thl^  tract  is  capable  of  supporting  mbre 
^han  Jbnr  ■line's  lheFu])posed  iunnher  I  have  no  doubt,  ami  that  in 
the  Ij^pse  of  leljs  than  thirty  years  frnm  this  time,  it  will  contJiiii 
nM>re  ll^rtn  viie  tnillion  and  a  half  of  per.«;oMS  I  have  as  little 
doubt.  i>efore  the  middle  of  the  Current  letitury,  if  no  cntnslro- 
phe.  jcci\rs  to  disturb  the  present  coirtse  of  events,  there  will  ex- 
ist, between  ttie  r  ily  of  New-York  and  St.  Louis,  wilhlU  less  tluni 
fifty  miles  of  the  line  we  are  now  examining,  more  thnn  five  mil- 
'ions  of  people,  or  about  one  half  as  many  as  are  now  itl  ilie  whole 
United  States.  This  may  perhaps  excite  a  suspicion  bf  visiona- 
ry views  in  the  writer,  but  some  statistical  facts  may  render  the 
hntjci^utiou  at  least  probable      II  may  be  doubted,  whclhcr  there 


!!.;■■! 


M 


,^. 


nBm 

P^*' '  • 

Mly\' 

W!:': 

M  ■•■»..; 

It.'     #  ,■ 


!■;■ 


^:fe 


'    I 


XX.^Il 


ftEaNERAL  REMARlfS. 


[adoknoa  SV.'tt, 


is  now  mxlcr  cultivation  in  ibe  United  States,  ar.  nrjcb  productive 
soil  as  is  contained  upon  the  surface  under  re^  iew.     if  a  pair  of 
com^'s'sses  is  supposed  to  beset  dowh  in  the  city  oi'  t^hiiauiiitphia, 
and  excended  to  loo  miles  radius,  the  sweep  will  incM'dt  a  sunuce 
of  about  20,000  square  miles  of  solid  land,  and  i, ore  than  one 
million  and  a  half  of  people,  or  nearly  a  sixth  part  of  the  eiit'ire 
population  of  the  United  States.     If 'J(>,000  square  miles  is  assum- 
ed as  the  land  included  in  the  radii  of  100  miles  from  Philadel- 
phia, and  1,500^000  as  the  population,  then  this  surface  m  ist 
lia'c  an  average  population  of  75   to  the  square  mile,  out  of 
which   300,000  may  be  supposed  to  inhabit  the  cities  of  New- 
Vork,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  other  towns.     No  person  ac- 
ijuaintLMl  with  the  comparative  regions,  would  hazafd  the  asser- 
tion, that  20,000  square  miles  around  Philadelphia,  is  equal  in  re- 
?pcct  to  soil,  to  an  equal  surface  along  the  Mohawk,  in  west  New- 
Voik,  Along  the  south  side  of  lake  T'.rie,  in  the  Michigan  penin- 
sula, and  upon  the  Illinois  river;  the  fact  is,  that  compared  to 
each  other,  a  deciiU'd  preference  is  ihw  to  the  latter  over  the  for- 
mer section,  in  the  quality  of  the  .«<oil,  and  in  general  commercial 
advantaaos  ;  all  things  considered,  they  are  nearly  e.i'ial.     Many 
counties  in  the  western  slates  have  already  a  populaijon  of  more 
than  50  to  the  square  mile,  upon  soil  much  less  adapted  to  agri- 
culture,  manidactures,   or  comtncrce,   than   the   noiih-wesleni 
range  from  the  city  of  New-York  to  St.  I^ouis. 

The  route  by  lake  Erie,  IMtuunoe,  and  Wabash,  is  in  point  of 
course,  the  most  direct  line  of  connnunication  from  the  Canadi- 
an sea,  to  the  Ohio  and  Mis.-hsippi  rivers;  but  subject  to  some 
inconveniences  not  found  ?  .  iiC  Illinois  and  Michigan  passage. 
Though  not  impeded  by  ei.'".t,  falls  or  cataracts,  the  Wabash  is  a 
rapid  stream,  and  for  ascending  navigation  diflicult;  this  stream 
is  however  navigable  to  very  near  its  source,  and  waters  a  body 
of  very  excellent  land.  Mauniee  river  has  its  sources  on  the  same 
table  land  with  those  of  the  Wabash,  and  flowing  to  the  north- 
east falls  into  lake  Krie.  The  navigation  of  the  latter  river  is 
obstructed  by  falls  near  its  discharge  into  Maumee  bay,  or  the 
extreme  south-weste.-n  curve  of  lake  Erie.  The  country  water- 
f'd  by  the  Maumee  river  is  generally  fertile  and  well  adapted  to 
the  production  of  ;<mall  grain.  The  Indian  title  being  now  ex- 
linct  to  c<>"nsiderable  tracts  on  that  river,  settlement  by  a  white 


:b  productive 
If  a  pair  of 

luJt  a  suru/ce 
ore  tlion  one 
t  of  the  eiit';re 
liles  is  assuiti- 
om  Philadcl- 
surface  m  ist 
mile,  out  of 
cities  of  New- 
Vo  person  ac- 
sard  the  assei- 
is  equal  in  re- 
c,  in  west  New- 
icliigan  penin- 
it  compared  to 
31"  over  the  for- 
al  comnjercial 
e.-fMai.     Many 
laisiii  of  more 
dapted  to  agri- 
north- western 

1.  is  in  point  of 
>m  the  Canadi- 
ubjoct  to  some 
iliigan  passage, 
he  Wabash  is  a 
lit;  this  stream 
I  waters  a  body 
ces  on  the  same 
)g  to  the  north- 
latter  river  is 
nee  bay,  or  the 
country  water- 
well  adapted  to 
being  now  ex- 
jicnt  by  a  whitte 


♦'.C.NDA  NO.  11.] 


QE.NERAL  REMARKS. 


xxxni 


population  will  speedily  ensue.  The  route  by  the  Maumce  and 
Wabash  may  he  raa^lc  u.-',;\il  to  a  large  comniuuity  on  the  banks 
<jf  'hose  streams,  thoug^l  as  a  chaimcl  of  active  intercourse  be- 
tween the  Atlantic  coast  and  the  Mississippi  valley,  the  uoriheru 
route  will  be  preferred. 

Another  route  presejits  itself,  which  has  been  hitherto  in  great 
part  overlooked ;  that  is,  by  the  Huron  of  lake  Eric,  or  river 
Kaisin,  with  streams  falling  vito  the  south-east  extremity  of  lake 
Michigan.  From  the  narrowness  of  the  table  land  of  the  Mi- 
chigan peninsula,  and  from  the  great  saving  of  distance  by 
Michilimachinac,  no  doubt  but  that  this  former  route  will,  at  some 
future  period,  be  found  of  great  national  utility,  particularly  in 
winter. 

A  projected  uni'^n  of  Sandusky  with  the  Sciota  river,  has  been 
long  conceived  ;  of  either  the  facility  of  execution,  or  benetits  if 
completed,  of  this  design  I  am  unable  to  speak  with  certainty. 

Viewing  a  map  of  the  respective  places,  the  most  obvious  con- 
nexion between  the  western  parts  of  lake  Erie,  and  the  Ohio  val- 
ley is  by  the  Muskingum  and  Cayahoga  rivers.  If  a  canal  or 
good  turnpike  road  united  these  latter  strea:,ns,  the  benefits  would 
be  immediate  and  certain.  I  find  this  subject  has  met  the  atten- 
tion of  the  people  of  the  state  of  Ohio  ;  and  if  the  statistical  part 
of  the  following  extract  is  correct,  can  be  efiected  with  great  ease. 

"  Cleaveland,  Nov.  17. 
*'  Contemplated  canal. — We  have  conversed  with  gentlemen  rcsit'- 
ingon  the  river  Tuscarawas,  (a  brnnch  of  Muskingum  river)  who 
informs  us,  that  boats  could  be  constructed  so  as  to  carry  3uO 
barrels  of  flour  up  and  down  the  river  to  a  portage  of  eight  miles 
to  the  Cayahoga  river — a  navigable  stream  for  boats  of  all  sizes 
during  the  summer  months,  and  as  branches  from  both  streams 
head  in  a  large  pond,  it  would  be  an  easy  matter  to  cut  a  canal, 
so  as  to  unite  those  streams,  and  fhereby  secure  to  ourselves  the 
trade  of  the  Ohio  ;iver,  and  the  vast  and  fertile  ountry  on  the, 
banks  of  the  Muskingum.  We  would  invite  the  attention  of  the 
state  legislature  to  this  important  object,  inasmuch  as  it  Mould  be 
a  source  of  inexhaustible  wealth  to  the  state,  and  unite  the  inte- 
rest of  the  south,  with  that  of  the  moro  Qortliern  sections  of  oui 
country. 
"  As  the  great  wcstciu  canal,  iinitirg  lake  Erie  with  the  Hiul- 


:*.., 


■■■■■%• 


I'-  .  £  .'    '  ••  -■      >• 

N  :';■,..  .■'    ■■   ■ 


m 


■i   ) 


F  .'■■>'      •'     ■ 


I        I 


>l      ',: 


XXXIV 


ai^N^JlRAL  I(EMAftK». 


[audexda  no.  Ij. 


son  river,  is  iii  f\.  sfsUc  of  Ibrwarduess,  and  will  in  two  or  three 
years  be  cpitipletcd,  at  once  opening  an  uninterrupted  cqniniuni- 
CMi^on  between  lake  Erie  and  the  pity  of  New- York.  'l^Ue  nier- 
chant  can  have  his  goods  broughjl  on  for  a  trifle,  and  in  return  can 
transmit  the  surplus  products  of  uur  country  to  a  sure  markt-t. 
This  single  circumstance,  i;>  aniply  suflicient  tq  induce  the  legis- 
lature of  Ohio  to  fullpw  the  example  of  their  brethren  in  the  ensl. 
andcujl  a  canal  of  only  eight  i  liles,  to  bring  the  products  from  the 
iV:rtilc  banks  of  the  Ohio,  through  lake  Erie  to  the  cjly  of  New- 
York.  If  the  state  legislature,  and  heads  pf  dejtarlment  are  nuf 
l)lind  to  the  interest  of  the  state,  they  will  not  let  thp  present  ses- 
sion pass,  without  at  least  preparing  tq  put  ^hj$  |nipo).'^ant  work 
into  execution." 

'V\\is  well  written  artjcle  deserve^  a  qiore  permi^nent  recprcl 
than  the  colupins  of  a  newspaper,  I  have  enibodied  it  into  my 
addepdai  as  i^  may  tend  .at  least  (o  stimulate  enquiry  intq  an  im- 
portant point  of  our  geography  and  national  pqlicy. 

From  Cleveland  tp  BuHalo,  except  by  good  roads,  the  intrr^ 
course  \^ ill  be /diDicult  between  the  pepple  who  inhabit  fhe  shpie^ 
of  the  Canadian  sea,  and  tjiose  of  (he  Ohio  valley. 

y^'e  now  approach  ^he  most  iinportant  part  of  our  (inquiry,  tlii; 
fvUniiiii  Mobile ^  of  nearly  all  the  exerlion  that  will  be  made  tji 
ilive  eflect  to  any  of  the  preceding  ipiprov.ements.  The  Gran^ 
<Lunal  of  tlje  state  of  New-Yuik  ;  a  wprk  that  has  arre>tpd  lesj; 
O-ttpniion  than  the  creation  of  new,  or  the  dieliiupiency  of  old 
banks  ;  and  yot  a  work  that  is  destined  to  produce  mpre  lastinjj 
jmpressioiis  u])on  our  external  and  ii)ternal  poijoy,  than  any  uii- 
dibiiti^Anis^  since  tite  foriiiadun  of  the  i^deral  c.onstitution.  Noth- 
ing can  ?  e  more  narrow,  niore  selfish,  more  puerile,  or  riiore  un- 
iVunJed,  than  the  stspposilion  that  the  sl.'i,te  o/"  New- York,  as  slir 
is  Qiily  to  be  benefitted,  ought  to  bear  the  expense  pf  this  greai 
uriyect.  Ca  fact,  when  completed,  the  slate  of  Npw-York,  iu 
proportion  to  her  extent  and  population,  will  gain  less  from  tli< 
;'sufruct  of  the  Canal,  than  a  p;.rt  of  Penn.svlvania,  the  \  >rthcjn 
part  of  li!€  slate  of  Ohio,  all  the  Territory  of  Michigan,  all  the  vast 
region  bcoyp.d,  to  the  sources  of  lakes  Superior  and  Michigan  and 
dll  Ujipet  Cuijada above  the  chute  of  Niagara.  Without  such  u 
chanucl  to  the  Atlantic  coast,  remote  and  detached  masses  oi 
populaiioa  will  be  cltljer  forced  to  form  tlicir  crmriicrcial  con- 


1 


>pliiVl>4  SO.  Ij. 

two  or  llirec 
ed  cqiiiiiiuiii- 

in  return  can 

^ure  raai'ktt. 

nee  the  legis- 
en  in  the  ens! 
ducts  froin  the 

cjiy  of  Ncw- 
Inicnt  are  iiof 
e  present  ses- 
iMOftant  work 


fir^nent  recpK^ 
in\  it  into  my 
ly  liitq  an  ini> 

nds,  the  inlrr- 
abitfhe  shpie^ 

ir  (inquiry,  thjj 
ill  be  made  tft 
I.  The  Granjl 
s  arre>tpd  Icjj; 
(juency  of  ohi 
:e  mpie  lasting 
,  than  any  uti- 
tutiou.  Nolh- 
e,  or  rnore  UU' 
w-York,  as  shj* 
t  f)£  this  RF.eat 
iS'pw-York,  in 
less  from  the 
I,  the  1  )rthciij 
an,  all  the  vast 
I  Michigan  and 
'^ilhout  such  a 
hed  masses  oi 
mtxicrcial  cou- 


il^DENOA  NO.  n.] 


OKNKIAL  IlEMAlftcJ*. 


xxxt 


ne.xions  with  Montreal,  or  /cmaiu  in  a  slate  of  inactivity.  This 
|s  exactly  the  case  at  the  present  moment.  The  man  who  con- 
founds the  subject  of  iho  Canal  with  local  or  personal  polities, 
has  very  little  sensp  of  or  respect  for  his  own  future  fame }  and 
such  n  mistake  will  hj-  of  more  i>»jury  to  those  whp  commit  it, 
than  tq  the  execution  of  ihe  desijjn.  It  will  U-ave  the  iniprint  of 
its  patrons  on  the  face  of  the  i;lohe,  an  imprint  that  will  remain 
centuries  after  the  names  of  those  who  are  now  qnly  rendered 
remarkable  by  office,  will  have  passed  to  the  deep  silence  of 
pblivion. 

If  a  river  flowed  from  ruflalq  to  Albany,  with  a  slow  and  gear 
tie  current,  ifuohslructed  by  rapjdsor  shoaU,  with  four  feet  watei, 
^^ature  vould  then  ||ave  done  for  interior  Nprth  America,  only 
what  thp  Cauifl  is  calculated  to  p9rforfn.  To  oppose  or  tJiwart 
j5ucl|  a  v<M'k>  fl'oii?  mqtlves  of  rival  politics,  is,  to  say  the  least^ 
unwise,  ino^kCusable  in  an  individual  however  obscine  ;  but  in 
tho?e  whose  decisions  have  ^  hijjher  authority,  pernicious.  Ever 
ry  road,  bridge,  or  caual  that  is  formed,  pf  however  small  cxr 
tent,  contributes  to  ijnite  society,  to  promote  social  and  moral 
intercourse^  aud  to  render  men  more  liberal  and  ftiore  happy. 
The  man  who  gives  his  mite  to  actelepate  the  formation  of  sudi 
works,  does  a  lasting  good  to  his  species.  To  obtain  a  high  rank 
amongst  mankind  ;  to  become  at  onpe  the  envy  of  rivals,  and 
admiration  of  friends,  js  the  lot  of  few  mpn  ;  but  to  contribut|:> 
to  national  prosperity  by  aiding  designs  of  pubijc  utility,  i$  withiff 
the  reach  of  all  men.  And  it  is  now  a  time  to  pause,  and  re-r 
fleet  whether  the  resources  of  the  United  States  can  not  be  niort 
advantageously  employed  in  internal  etnprovemeut  than  in  for- 
eign commerce.  If  this  hour  of  reflection  is  neglected,  posterity, 
whilst  suflering  the  ev'ils,  mj^y  pxecratc  thjB  folly  of  the  prc^cn; 
generation. 

We  will  now  take  a  cursory  survey  of  the  intopded  route  of  the, 
canal,  and  without  waiting  for  petty  details,  rapidly  glance  ftver 
the  facilities  offered  by  naluie,  or  impediments  opposed  to  it-s 
e\ecuti(»n. 

The  Canal  leaves  BufTaio,  thence  follows  the  sho;^  of  Niagara 
strait  to  the  mouth  of  Tonnewanla  creek,  tunis  up  the  bed  ol 
that  stream  to  where  the  level  o\  lake  Kiie  lermiuatcs,  then 
Icnvcs  tlie  Touncwauta  u;)oi!  lake  IMe  level.   \vhic!i  it  follows  to 


M 


lit*':-' ' 


1 

4' 


■  ,        1 


4'?i. 


acxxvi 


OKNKUAL  RRMAUK.S. 


[addend  V  NO.  (I. 


the  brow  of  Ontario  heights.  The  Canal  then  assume.s  its  groat 
eastern  direclioii  towards  Rome ;  follows  the  Onta'^io  heiuhls 
through  the  sources  of  ICijEjhteen  Mile  creek,  Oak  Orchard  creek, 
Saihly  creek,  siud  some  smaller  streams  to  Gerie.see,  which  latter 
river  C^e  canal  will  pass  by  a  dam,  or  on  an  aqueduct  bridge,  and 
\v  lading  tlwnce  over  the  heads  of  Jrondequot  creek,  enters  the 
sjntrces  of  S«'neca  river  by  Mud  creek.  The  Canal  then  follows 
tile  chajuiel  of  Mini  creek  to  the  outlet  of  Canandaigiia  lake,  and 
also  d(.*vij  the  united  stream  to  its  junction  with  the  outlets  of 
Seneca  and  Cayui^a  lakes.  Tho  latter  point  is  the  extreme  de- 
pressu)n«f  land  between  Rome  r.nd  BulTalo,  and  thus  far  may  the 
waters  of  lake  Lrie  \h^  made  subservient  to  the  Canal,  if  neces- 
sary. So  many  feeders  flow  across  the  Canal  route,  that  a  su- 
perabundance of  water  is  to  he  found  in  all  its  length.  I  have 
here  noticed  the  iwrthern  route,  which,  from  lake  Erie  at  tin? 
fnouth  of  IJutfalo  creek,  to  the  intersectjon  of  the  Canal  with 
Seneca  river,  it^  99  miles.  The  commissioners  who  framed  the  re- 
port, under  the  \&w  of  the  stateof  New-York,  of  the  17th  of  Aprils 
1816,  seem  to  hav(»  preferred  the  southern  route,  but  for  reasons 
not  sufficiently  explained  in  their  report.  The  two  routes  diverge 
from  each  other  at  tlic  point,  I  I  miles  up  the  Tonnewanla,  and 
again  unite  at  the  west  bank  of  Gcjiesee  river.  The  northern 
rputc,  as  I  have  mentiCited,  never  rises  above  the  lake  Erie  level, 
^ut  the  southern  route  rises  ahove  lake  Erie,  to  gain  the  summit 
level  near  Batavia,  nearly  73  feet  ;  a  descent  it  must  fall  in  aj> 
proaching  Genesee  river,  together  with  the  diflereiice  of  level  of 
timt  stream  and  lake  Erie,  194  feet;  or  in  all,  from  the  Ba-i- 
lavia  level  to  Genesee,  269  feet.  The  no;thern  route  avoids  any 
deseent  between  lake  Erie  and  Genesee  river,  except  the  simple 
difference  of  level  Ljtween  these  waters,  and  is  e^^enipt  from  any 
ascent  whatever,  above  the  lake  Erie  level.  The  northern  route 
must  also  possess  the  insuperable  advantage  of  a  much  greater, 
and  more  certain  supply  of  water. 

Neither  route  as  far  as  Seru?ca  river,  meets  any  very  serious 
impediments  from  natural  obstacles,  and  can  be  no  doubt  execu- 
ted within  the  estimates  made  by  the  connnissioners. 

The  level  near  Rome  is  48.5  feet  higher  than  low  water  in  Sen- 
eca river ;  the  interm(;diato  space  generally  a  rich  alluvion. 
Here  arc  presented  some  of  the  mvst  curious  phcnomcaa   of 


ENUV  NO.  (I. 

lies  its  grnat 

,no   heiijlils 

hard  creek, 

which  Inllcr 

t  hiidge,an(l 

enters  the 

then  follows 

vm  lake,  nnd 

je  outlets  of 

extreme  de- 

s  far  may  the 

lal,  if  neccs- 

e,  that  a  sit- 

igdi.     I  have 

Erie  at  the 

c  Canal   with 

ramed  the  re- 

17  th  of  Aprils 

ut  for  reasons 

routes  diverge 

linewanla,  and 

The  northern 

ike  Erie  level, 

in  the  summit 

iust  fall  in  ap* 

lice  of  level  of 

from  the  Ba-^ 

ute  avoids  any 

apt  the  simple 

})npt  from  any 

lorthern  routa 

much  greater, 

ly  very  serious 
[)  doubt  execu- 
s. 

V  water  in  Sen- 
rich   alluvion, 
phenomena   of 


AbDEND.\  NO.  n.]  «ENEaAL  hemarw.  jcotvii 

North  America.  The  singular  adaptation  of  the  space  between 
rtoineand  Seneca  river  for  a  Canal,  is  descriljcd  in  the  following 
v6ry  striking  manner  by  the  commissioners. 

"  The  exuberant  .supply  of  water  for  the  canal,  in  this  section, 
mwsl  be  at  once  perceived  from  an  inspection  of  the  topogrnplii- 
«»al  map.  At  its  commencement,  the  waters  of  the  Mohawk  ri- 
ver will  be  used,  and  they  can  be  increft.sed  to  any  extent,  by  in- 
Urdducing  a  feeder  from  Fish  creek.  Independently  of  numerous 
small  brooks,  the  canal  can  derive  as  much  water  as  can  be  de- 
.sired  from  the  Oneida,  the  Gowaslon,  the  Caimsaraga,  the  Chit- 
teningo,  tJie  Black,  the  Limestone,  the  Butternut,  the  Onondaga, 
the  Nine-mile,  the  Skcneateles,  the  Bread,  the  Cold-springy  the 
Owasco,  and  the  Crane  creeks ;  some  of  vvhich  are  the  outlets  of 
Jakes,  and  others  originate  from  perennial  springs  in  high  lands, 
and  will  tiever  be  affA:ted  by  the  clearing  of  the  country. 

"  The  adaptation  of  the  grounds  of  this  section,  for  A  canal,  ig 
{Peculiar  and  extraordinary.  After  proceoding  two  miles  and 
fourteen  chains^  it  will  be  necessary  to  descend  6  feet;  after  which, 
the  line  of  the  ctlnal  proceeds  41  1-2  miles  on  one  level.  A  de- 
scent of  19  feet  then  takes  place,  from  the  foot  of  which  another 
level  extends  10  miles.  For  the  remainder  of  the  distance  to  the 
•Seneca  river,  there  are  three  departures  from  the  level— ouc  of  8| 
one  of  9,  and  one  of  6  1-2  feet.  Thus  the  whole  extent  of  Ihi* 
section,  occupying  77  miles,  will  require  but  six  locks. 

'<  In  many  places  inexhaustible  beds  of  gypsum  exist,  which  can, 
by  '.(leans  of  this  canal,  be  conveyed  chedper  to  the  great  apricul- 
tuial  counties  of  the  state,  than  it  can  be  procured  by  inNpnrta- 
tion.  And  nothing  is  more  easy  than,  by  a  short  lateral  canal  of 
1  1-3  miles  in  length,  to  form  a  communication  between  Salina 
and  the  great  canal,  thus  furnishing  fuel  to  the  works,  and  salt  to 
the  whole  country.  A  level  has  been  carried  from  that  of  the  ca- 
nal, at  the  foot  of  the  two  locks  near  Onondaga  creek,  which 
iwould  require  no  greater  depth  of  excavation  than  four  feet,  in 
any  place,  and  no  embankment,  culvert,  or  lock." 

Fidi  Commissioner's  Jteport,  page  59. 

It  may  be  said  with  justice,  that  the  country  west  of  Utica,  \$ 
peculiarly  adapted  to  the  formation  of  a  canal ;  and  if  no  farther 
progress  should  ever  be  made  than  uniting  together  by  a  water 
communication,  the  Mohawk  and  SeneoA  riverfi,  .such  a  work 

T 


<^- 


A<1' 


I  ■  V 


■   » 


h  ' 


XXXV  111 


UENJuBAL.  KliAIAKKS. 


[addenda  S*t.  If, 


■<■■  ■! 

i                 i 
1                          * 

',  l>  ■ 

\  1 .' 


oHglil  to  iinrriorUili/.c  its  projectors,  and  cmicli  those  tvho  carry 
it  into  execution.  I  linvc  shown  that  the  IMohawk  river  noni 
Konic,  at  high  water  divides  its  stream  and  discharges  water  lo- 
.wards  the  Hudson  and  St.  Lawrence  rivers;  of  course  this  cir- 
cumstance renders  the  vohnnc  of  the  Mohawk  subservient  us  a 
feeder  to  the  canal,  both  to  the  westward  and  eastward. 

VVIien  writing  on  this  subject,  the  idea  first  [Hcsented  itself  tf> 
my  mind,  that  through  either  th/e  Mohawk,  or  sonic  valley  to  the 
fonth-wept  of  that  village,  oucc  rtowed  the  St.  Lawrein^e  river. 
Home  is  only  188  feet  al)ove  lake  Ontario;  and  the  vallies  of  tli^* 
Chittcningo,  pcrhajM  not  so  high  eVen  near  the  sources  of  tha* 
tiver. 

Kvcry  step  I  advance  in  the  inquiry  respecting  the  Grflnd  Ca- 
tial,  I  am  the  more  impressed  ^-iili  the  belief  that  much  valuable 
information  would  be  gained  by  an  accurate  sin  vey  of  the  inter- 
lodking  sources  of  the  Susquehanna  river  and  the  streams  (lowing 

•"  towards  Oneidlilake.  Tire  points  chosen,  Newton  creek  and  Se- 
neca lake,  to  unite  tlie  Susquehanna  river  to  the  confluent  waters 
of  the  Grand  Canal,  are  tlie  most  obvious,*  but  I  now  very  much 
doubt  their  being  the  only  points  of  contact,  where  very  useful 
improvements  could  be  made.  If  ever  lake  Ontario  was  188 
feet  abcve  its  present  level,  then  was  its  waters  discharged,  either 
towards  the  Hudson  or  Susqitehanna,  or  both.  The  ancient  fea- 
tures of  this  continent,  must  have  been  very  different  from  the 
present.  It  will  be  recollected,  that  the  diftcrence  of  level  be- 
tween lakes  Eric  and  Ontario,  is  3.14  feet;  therefore,  if  the  sur- 
face of  lhe,'latter  was  again  elevated  188  feet,  its  level  would  still 
1)6  depressed  below  that  of  the  former  140  feet. 

No  person  of  ordinary  observation,  who  examines  the  shores 
of  lake  OntarFo  or  the  banks  of  St.  Lawrence  river,  but  will  grant 
xhni  abundant  evidences  remain  to  attest  an  elevation  of  lake 
Ontario  of  more  than  two  hundred  feet  above  its  present  surface. 
KviJences  also  exist,  to  prove  that  the  recession  of  that  Jake  wn> 

*  periodical.  The  chain  of  smaller  lakes  lying  west  of  Rome, 
north  of  the  dividing  ridge,  and  east  of  Gene5ee  river,  were  once 
^.•♦ys  of  Ont.'irio.  It  is  very  certain,  that  the  space  between  tli<' 
'hills  north  of  Ctica,  to  those  south  of  Skcneateles  lake,  instill  fji*' 


^oic.  page  1»6. 


lENDA  NV.  II. 

who  carry 

river  iicni 

(es  wrtlcr  lo- 

irse  this  cir- 
Iserviclit  as  a 

ird. 

htcd  ilscif  Uy 

I  vol  ley  to  thr 

nvix^c  river. 

vallies  oi'tli^- 
)urct*s  oi'  tlia' 

he  Grand  Ca- 
iiuch  valiiahU' 
of  the  inter- 
reams  (lowiiijj; 
creek  and  Se- 
nd iicnt  waters 
oiv  very  much 
re  very  useful 
tario  was   188 
charged,  either 
lie  ancient  fea- 
brent  from  the 
ice  of  level  he- 
ore,  if  the  sur- 
level  would  still 

lies  the  sliorcs 
r,  hut  will  gran! 
ovation  of  lake 
iresent  surface. 
r  that  Jake  wji> 
k'csl  of  Rome, 
iver,  were  once 
L'e  helweet)  the 
lake,  il^  still  fji*' 


Addenda  no.  h.]  gicneral  remarka 


x.wu 


the  hiwe.U  gorge  iil  the  <*ei)nrnting  ridge  that  exist.i  between  the 
!lliiioi.s  river  aihl  lake  Champhtin  ;  and  admitting  the  ancient  elr- 
valion  of  lake  Ontario  to  the  level  of  the  Mohawk  river  near 
Rome,  then  through  this  pass  oriec  ilowed  the  St.  Lawrence  wa- 
ter.s.  If  such  a  <lisposition  of  things  vai  ever  the  case,  the  an- 
cient chnnnel  remains,  and  will,  It  i.^  pri.hrthle.  Ho  foutid  the  mo.««t 
eligihle  chaimel  of  coniminiicatl'Jti  tKat  niiture  admits,  hciwcea 
the  waters  of  Sf .  Lawrence  hud  Susquehanna  rivers. 

Happily  the  (Irand  Canal  in  leaving  that  of  the  Mohrtwk,  pas- 
ses into  the  St.  F^awrence  valley,  by  this  appnrently  ancient  chan- 
nel, and  has  received  from  natiu'e  a  facility  in  etlecling  its  execu- 
tion, that  ilo  where  else  exi!?ts  in  all  tile  line  of  connexion  l)e- 
tween  the  waters  flowing  towards  the  Atlantic  coast,  and  these 
which  enter  the  Oliio  valley.  The  Susquehatma  river  is  render- 
ed remarkable,  froni.  rising  n(irlh-we?<t  of  the  Allegany  mountains; 
rtnd  from  passing  that  entire  chain  in  its  cour.sc  to  the  Atlantic 
ocean.  The  foregoing  is  however  a  characteristiti  which  the 
Hudson  participates  with  the  Susquehanna;  the  Mrihrtwk  i-iscs 
north-west  of  the  spine  of  the  .\llegany,  and  also  passes  over  a 
^pnH  of  that  chdiii,  in  it^  way  to  the  Hudson,  which  latter  pierces 
the  residue. 

After  joininj*  ihe  Mohawk  river  near  Ronle,  it  is  iriterided  to 
follow  the  nuirgin  of  that  river  wlt!i  the  canal,  keeping  the  south 
bank.     Exce])t  dt  the  Little*  and  Cohoes  Falls,  no  hupcdimeut  of 

'<  New- York,  dcr. 'i^,  1818. 

*  "  Intprfirtl  Trndp. — Tlie  following  is  an  extract  of  a  letter, 
addrcs.sed  to  the  tiditor,  from  a  gentleman  at  the  westward,  whostf 
intelligence  and  opportunities  are  such  as  to  give  con/ideuce  to 
his  statements. 

*  From  iKc  Company-s  boolcs  at  the  Little  Falls,  I  find  that  the 
number  of  tona  of  nierchandisc  and  prftducd,  transported  in  boatsl 
through  the  locks*  at  that  phtce,  during  the  year  18^7,  is<Are« 
Hiouitand  seven  hundred  and  thirty-jive  From  our  limited  trade, 
for  the  want  of  an  uninterrupted  water  communication  with  the 
western  part  of  the  state,  &;c.  I  estimate  the  price  of  transporta- 
tion per  tcfn  at  ,^60— which  w  .1  make  an  aggregate  of  .$224, 1 oo' 
per  annum. 

<  The  receipts  at  those  locks  only,  for  the  last  year,  were  about 
^10,000— and  this  year  they  will  amount  to  about  ,$  1 2,000. 

'  There  may  be  a  distinct  branch  of  commerce  bel\*een  Ulica 
and  lake  Ontario,  &c.  through  Wood  cicek— but  of  this  I  havV 
Ho  account. 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M580 

(716)  872-4503 


0 


5tl 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


[addenda  no.  II. 


|/;<vf^  ■■■■■; 


any  consequence  exists  in  tlie  distance  between  Kome  and  Alba- 
ny. Locks  already  exist  at  the  Little  Falls,  which  enable  the 
fermers  and  merchants  to  transport  their  produce  and  nierclian- 
dise,  by  water  from  the  upper  Mohawk  to  Sclicnectady.  The 
nrfte  at  the  bottom  of  this  page,  will  give  some  idea  of  the  present 

*  From  an  account  taken  for  the  purpose,  at  a  turnpike  gate 
above  thv  Little  Falls,  (where  it  will  he  recollected  an  important 
road  diverges  to  the  north,)  I  calculate  the  number  of  two  and 
three-horse  waggons  employed  in  transportation,  (exclusive  of 
the  occasional  trips  of  farmers'  waggons,  and  of  those  removing 
families  and  furniture,)  to  be  290 — making  oft  an  average  twelve 
trips  a  year,  and  carrying  both  ways  two  and  a  half  tons  each. 
As  the  loads  of  such  waggons  do  not  generally  go  so  far  west  a? 
those  of  the  larger  waggons,  the  transportation  is  calculated  ait 
but  ^30  per  ton — amounting  to  ^180,000  per  annum. 

*  Of  five,  six,  and  seven-horse  waggons,  there  appears  to  be 
forty  employed,  carrying  on  an  average  six  tons,  both  ways,  and 
making  at  least  six  trips  (I  might  say  seven)  per  annum — theiV 
freight  at  ^40  per  ton,  amounts  to  ^^57,600. 

*  For  transportation  by  boats,    -        -        -        -        ^224,100 

do.  small  waggons,  -        -        -       180,000 

do.  large     -        -        -        *        -    57,000 

Total,      ^461,100 

*  I  have  submitted  these  statements  to  men  who  are  competent 
to  decide,  and  they  pronounce  them  rather  low  thrtn  otherwise. 
The  price  of  freight  is  lower  than  the  estimate  of  Sidney  ;  but  I 
)iave  reason  to  believe  it  is  nearly  correct,  as  a  very  large  ]>ropor- 
tion  is  started  and  landed  short  of  Buffalo ;  and  produce  is 
brought  to,  much  cheaper  than  merchandise  is  carried  from  Al- 
bany. 

*  It  will  be  observed,  that  nearly  haffa  million  is  now  paid  for 
transportation  anni  ai^y,  from  above  the  Little  Falls,  and  the 
Black  river  roads,  of  course  on  oTie  side  only  of  the  Mohawk,  and 
upon  the  river  itself— and  that  the  tiansportaticn  has  increased 
at  Uast  ojie  sixth,  since  last  winter,  upon  the  river.  What  would 
the  people  say  to  a  saving  of  but  jialf  of  the  above  expense? 
What  would  they  say  if  that  saving  was  doubled,  by  adding  to  the 
account  the  thousands  of  loads  yearly  transported  by  the  farmers 
themselves  ?  And  what  would  they  not  say,  could  they  foresee 
the  immense  quantities  of  produ<',e  and  merchandise  which  must 
necessarily  pass  this  great  thoroughfare  to  and  from  the  western 
U'orldy  whenever  the  canal  is  opened  ? 

<  But  I  must  not  indulge  fancy,  when  I  am  restricted  by  a  want 
of  both  time  and  capacity  lo  do  any  thing  like  justice  to  my  sub- 
ject. I  have  collected  a  few  facts,  which  are  at  your  disposal,  if 
they  '4VC  worih  preserving."  ' — Columbian. 


-'!<)■''■■ 


£■:' 


i 


ADDENDA  NO.  If.] 


OKNER.VL  REMARKS. 


xli 


;nda  no.  II. 


quantity  and  value  of  produce,  which  is  transported  through  the 
locks  at  the  Little  Falls.  It  will  be  recollected,  however,  that  if 
agriculture  and  corameixie  make  roads  and  canals,  roads  and 
canals  re-act,  and  i»i  their  turn  augment  agriculture  and  com- 
merce. Theiefore,  no  estimate  made  as  things  are  now  situated, 
can  give  an  adequate  conception  of  the  trade  of  the  Mohawk,  if 
that  stream  was  connected  with  Seneca  river  and  lake  Erie. 

The  middle  section  of  the  canal,  ks  the  only  part  which  is  yet 
in  progress,  and  is  now  so  far  advanced,  as  to  render  it  probable^ 
that  in  the  ensuing  year,  the  communication  with  the  Seneca  will 
be  completed,  and  the  middle  and  eastern  parts  of  the  state  uni- 
ted, which  alone  would  be  of  incalculable  gain  to  the  state. 

"  The  middle  section  of  this  canal,"  says  the  Utica  Gazette, 
*'  is  in  nearly  as  great  forwardness  as  that  of  the  northern,  and  it 
is  expected  that  it  will  be  completed  before  the  close  of  another 
season.  This  section  extends  from  Utica  to  Seneca  river,  a  dis- 
tance of  nearly  90  miles,  and  in  its  whole  course  has  but  one  Sjct.. 
of  locks,  and  those  at  Salina,  60  miles  west  of  Utica." 

Writing  upon  the  subject  of  the  canal,  I  proceeded  rather  as  a 
statist t!ian  an  engineer;  without  attending  to  the  minor  details, 
my  endeavor  has  been  to  develope  the  general  features  of  the 
eountry  through  which  this  work  is  intended  to  pass,  and  rather 
to  show  its  practicability  and  usefulness,  than  the  ordinary  means 
lo  efftxt  its  execution. 

For  further  information  respecting  this  project,  I  must  refer  lo 
the  following  documents. 
<*  Memorial  to  the  New- York  Legislature,  when  the  Western  C^ 

nal  was  first  projected."     Written  by  D«  Witt  Clinton. 
"  Reports  of  Canal  Commissioners." 
''  Memorial  to  the  Congress  of  the  United  Slates,  to  solicit  aM 

in  making  the  Grand  Canal." 
"  Considerations  on  the  Great  Western  and  Norlhern  Canals,  in- 
cluding a  view  of  the  expense^  progres&f  and  advantages^ 
Written  under  the  direction  of  the  New- York  Correspondiiig 
Association  for  Promotion  of  Internal  Improvements.  By 
CrtAULEsG.  Haines. 

This  latter  work,  perhaps  more  than  any  other  that  has  ap- 
peared, gives  a  luminous  expose  of  the  canal  and  its  certain  be- 
nefits to  the  nation,  as  well  as  state  of  New- York  j  and  ought  to^ 

T2 


'  > 


,^f' 


'J. 


■if? 


';■■■'  1  1 
■'  •'  ''II 


t| 


xUT 


OENERAL  REMAKKS. 


[addenda  ko.  14. 


!•';■■' 


it  ,.-." 
El   ■ 


IvVt- 


'-■.>■., 


EC- 


be  rend  impartially  by  every  (nan  wlio  desiiiis  lo  lliiiik,  speak,  of 
judge  con eetly  on  the  irnportanl  subject  upon  which  it  tienls      I 
<lid  not  visit  the  region  in  which  runs  the  Northern  Canul  h<^tweeii 
the  Hudson  river  and  lake  ('han)plain,  Ihcrolbre  cannot  include; 
any  details  respecting  that  undertaking  in  this  tieati.se. 

Among  theniajjy  benefits  that  the  people  of  the  interior  of  the 
state  of  New- York,  will  delivefroni  a  water  con)njiinic«tion  with 
the  Canadian  sea,  one  of  the  greatest  has  hardly  been  noticed, — 
the  lake  fisheries,  which  nioy  he  eNt^^idcd  to  atiy  possilile  demand. 
These  fisheries  haye  been  hitherto  in  some  incauure  checked  by 
the  dearness  and  di^liculty  of  prpcuring  salt.  This  inconveni- 
ence wjU  b^  remedied  by  vhe  canal,  and  the  natural  streams  with 
which  it  >vlll  be  connect  -d. 

"  Lake  Fi^herUs. — \Vc  cannot  snfficientl)'  rpprccirite  the  good- 
ness of  Providence,  for  the  peculiar  heslowment  of  his  favois  on 
the  people  of  this  state.     The  sources  of  New-Yoik  yet  only 
dawn  upon  us. — Heaven  has  placed  an  exclusive  siip})K  of  salt 
in  the  heart  of  the  state,  and   this  neccs.'sary  article  is  dispensed 
ibr  one  shilling  a  bushel,  where  the  trans])orlat>on  alone,  if  ini- 
portcd,  would  cost  twelyp.     Not  only  arc  the  inhabitants  of  the 
vhole  interior  of  the  slate  provided  at  a  lo\v  rale,  but  a  large  sur- 
plus is  yearly  cxjiorted.     The  current  seruson,  more  than  sixteen 
thousand  barrels  liave  gonip  through  lake  Ontario,  for  Pennsylva- 
nia and  Oliio.'^Gypsitm  too,  in  tjuantity  equal  to  every  purpose 
and  beyond  consumption,  is  found,in  vast  beds  where  the  distance 
must,  but  for  the  bounty  of  the  groat  author  of  nature  have  deni-, 
u<\  the  farnicr  this  great  aid  in  agriculture.    The.sc  sources  of 
■^vealth  and  convenicr.fe  l»«Ye  been  frequeritly  descril)vd,  whi'q 
the  no  less  liberal  hand  of  Providence  in  furnishing  the  wants  of 
"many  and  the  luxury  9,f  others,  by  means  of  the  fish  found  in  the, 
lukes,  is  hardly  known  or  acknowledged.     The  season  for  taking 
fish  is  just  closing — I  have  not  to  the  data  for  an  estimate  of  th^ 
yearly  product  of  this  lake,  but  h^^v^  ascertaitied  from  tl";?  most 
correct  suur^jcs  the  following  to  be  the  quantity  anjj  species  offish 
taken  and  salted  this  season,  in  this  and  Chaumoiit  bays. 
"  Siscoes  or  lake  Herring,  4,000  barrels, 

selling  price  .^7  per  barrel,  is  ^28,000 

«  White  fish,  '      1,200  bbls.  price  .^9  is  ]0,8(  0 

•'  Salmon  Trout,  400  bbls.    *'      14  is  5,600 


f  Total, 


5.600  bbls.       amouut, 


^UA^Q, 


M,f:-  I, 


>ENDA  mo.  l^. 


A^BEXDA  NO.  U.J. 


GE.NJ5KAL  REMAIIKS.' 


xliit 


"  The  distance  comprised  is  less  than  twenty  miles,  and 
tlie  quantity  is  exclusive  of  the  abundance  distributed  fre^i 
in  the  country,  contiguous  to  the  fishing  grounds.  From 
Hijs  statement  sonje  o])iuion  may  be  fcyawed  of  the  value, 
importance,  and  extent  of  our  ijiland  fisheries.  Industry  and  la- 
bor ,nre  alone  wanting  to  share  this  bounty,  and  the  poor  are  ena- 
bled to  piovi<le  a  resource  for  winter  with  but  little  expense.  To 
sonjc  thoy  furnish  the  means  of  subsistence,  whilp  others  at  a  dis- 
tance sGtk  ihcm  as  a  luxury.  We  jire  glad  to  have  it  in  our  pow-, 
ev  to  stntc,  thnt  a  law  was  passed  by  the  late  assembly  to  regulate 
the  packing  of  lake  fish,  and  provides  for  the  appointmout  of  in- 
«l>octors,  who  have  branded  all  those  put  up  under  their  direction." 

It  wns  not  the  season  for  fishing  when  I  was  upon  the  Canadi* 
Of!  laicos,  I  am  therefore  the  less  enabled  to  give  either  accurate  or 
e.iU  iisive  information  upon  the  subject.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
contignous  shores  consider  the  fish  of  tiie  lakes  as  a  very  serious 
psr!  of  their  iioinishmcnt.  The  lower  extremity  of  lake  Onta- 
rio, tlic  Bass  islands  in  lake  Erie,  and  the  Manatoqlin  islands  in 
lake  lluion,  are  generally  represented  as  aflbrding  the  best  fishe- 
ries in  these  respective  lakes.  The  mouths  of  most  of  the  rivers 
also  abound  with  fish  of  various  kinds,  of  excellent  quality. 

This  article  might  indeed  be  extended  to  any  length.  The  re- 
sources of  the  St.  Lawrence  valley  are  so  numerous,  so  widely 
spread,  and^  I  might  add  until  lately,  so  little  appreciated,  that 
a  volume  might  be  written  to  exhibit  the  neglected  objects  with 
which  it  abounds,  and  tihat  may,  and  no  doubt  will  ere  long  bq 
brought  into  use. 

I  shall  close  this  article  by  son,,  observations  upon  travel- 
ling througli  the  St.  Lawrenjce  valley.  Viewed  in  the  light  of  a 
tour  of  pleasurable  amusement,  I  eannot  conceive  of  a  counti*y 
where  more  could  be  enjoyed,  as  far  as  the  richest  objects  in  na- 
ture are  gratifying  to  our  taste.  From  the  city  of  New- York  to 
that  of  Albany,  and  from  the  latter  along  the  Mohawk  and  Sene^ 
ca  rivers,  the  traveller  finds  renewed  gratification  at  every  step. 
From  Canandaigua  to  Buflalo,  is  the  least  interesting  tract  over 
which  I  myself  passed  j  but  even  here,  many  circumstances  in 
the  improvement  of  the  farms,  villages,  and  roads,  will  afiTord  am- 
ple gratification  to  minds  who  derive  delight  from  seeing^  a  wilde^v* 
ness  changed  to  a  cultivated  country,  • 


.;  1 


I 


I 


xliv 


GENERAL  AKMAKKS. 


fADpENDA  NO.   I|. 


■imw 


,i.\ 


m' 


ISi' 


,  .:■  •■■■■'*.  i 


f:: 

;'  ), 

;0^; 

1 

.  >  ,- 

1 

';'■',■'■; 

When  arrived  at  BuiTalo,  a  tract  opens,  tliat  the  coldest  heart 
can  scarce  view  with  indillcrence.     Here  opens  the  expanse  of 
lake  Lrie,  the  richly  spreading  landscapes  along  Niagara  river, 
and  above  all,  that  cataract,  that  to  have  seen  may  be  conndere(| 
a  privilege.     The  steani-buat  will  in  a  few  days  waft  the  traveller 
along  the  surface  of  lake  Erie  to  Detroit;  and  whilst  on  (liis  voy- 
age, the  swelling  shores  of  that  lake,  the  nutnerous  islands  in  ita 
south-west  extremity,  above  all,  the  well  cultivated  shores  and 
beautiful  strait  of  Erie,  with  it$  towns,  farms,  and  other  ohjects, 
will  combine  to  present  a  continually  renewed  feast  to  the  mind. 
Returned  to  Bufialo,  the  Niagara  strait  can  once  more  be  passed 
with  unabated  pleasure.  The  steam-boats  are  again  in  rcadinessai 
Lewiston  "or  Queenston,  (o  waft  the  traveller  along  Ontario  to 
Sacket's  Matlpr.  The  scenery  upon  the  shores  of  Ontario  is  more 
varied,   and  of  a  bolder  aspect  than  upon    Erie,   and  though 
the  least  in  exttn^  tvf  the  five  great  lakes  of  Canada,  Ontario  is 
the  most  interesting  of  the  whole  groupe.     With  Niagara  at  the 
one  extreuiity,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  at  the  other,  and  receiving 
from  its  southern  shores  the  Genesee,  Oswego,  and  Black  rivers, 
tills  noble  sheet  of  water  may  clai^n  the  iii  st  rank,  wheiii  viewed 
as  the  great  connecting  lirk,  between  the  vast  interion;  sea  ©f 
North  America,  and  the  unequalled  stream  flowing  from  its  east-r 
«;rn  point.     And  as  if  to  lender  its  superiority  over  its  more  ex- 
pansive rivals  decisive,  it  possesses  the  two  fine  harbors  of  Kings- 
ton   and  Sacket's,  where  ships  of  the  line   of  the  first  rate, 
now  lie  in  silent  mnjesty,  awaiting  the  period  of  war,  to  >Naft  th^ 
thunder  of  their  hundred  cannon  over  its  deep  and  oceau-lik^ 
bosom. 

Beside  the  features  of  Black  river;,  which  as  high  as  WatertowH 
well  deserve  a  visit  from  the  curious  traveller,  many  other  objects, 
near  Sacket's  Ilai  bor,  will  amply  reward  the  trouble  and  expense 
of  a  review.  The  spot  is  indeed  classic  ground.  It  was  her? 
that  first  budded  the  now  majestic  laurels  of  our  living  Gentii^al 
Brown ;  and  it  is  here,  where  rests  the  remains  of  the  brav^,  the 
generous,  huniane,  and  chivalrous  Pike.  Upon  the  point  of  land 
>%erloeking  the  harbor,  rests  the  ashes  of  this  American  hero; 
and  few  Americans  will  eve^  visit  the  spot  without  dropping  a  tear 
to  the  too  early,  but  glorious  exit  of  this  gallant  soldier.  But 
|*ikc  rests  not  alone  ;--ollitr  U«;roci  sleep  beside  h^m.    Many  of 


.;-   h 


West  heart 
pxpaiise  of 
»ara  river, 
con^iderecl 
le  traveller 
n  (his  voy- 
lands  in  iU 
iliores  and 
ler  objeclSy 
>  the  mind. 
i  be  passed 
readiness  a| 
Ontario  tp 
irio  is  more 
and  though 
,  Ontario  is 
gara  at  the* 
d  receiving 
lack  rivers, 
heia  viewed 
:riot;  se^.  ^C 
Dm  its  castr 
Is  more  ex- 
it of  Kings- 
first  rate, 
o  >\aft  tii^ 
oceau-lik^ 

V^atertowH 
her  objects, 
id  expense 
was  heri? 
ig  GentTa) 
brave,  the 
lint  of  land 
[can  hero ; 
)ing  a  tear 
Her.  But 
Miiny  of 


ADDENDA  NO.  11.^ 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 


xlv 


the  best  and  bravest  men  of  the  nation,  fell  upon  the  Canadian 
border.  Their  names  have  ojily  in  part  survived  the  battle  field  ; 
their  dying  sigh  mingled  with  the  last  roar  of  the  cannon,  ai>d 
left  their  meniory  to  be  cherished  by  a  few  relatives  and  frieuls, 
and  forgotten  by  that  counlry  they  so  greatly  served.  The  tra- 
veller in  seeking  their  graves,  will  often  acek  in  vain  ;  no  hand  is 
found  to  point  to  the  spot  where  the  soldier  sleeps.  Fame  lavish- 
es her  ])luudils  upon  a  few,  and  leaves  the  many  to  perish  without 
a  name  ;  !iih1  often  the  n  whose  sword  saved  his  country,  has 
not  even  the  poor  uiemorial  of  a  heap  of  earth,  to  render  Sacred 
the  spot  where  his  remains  have  been  laid  ;  and  alas  !  too  often 
his  little  orphans,  mingle  the  bitterness  of  want,  wi^h  tears  for 
81  father  wlio  can  neither  "  hear  them  sigh,  nor  see  them  weep." 

It  would  be  nothing  more  than  strictly  correct  to  add,  that  from 
Sacket's  Harbor  to  the  city  of  Quebec,  is  a  distance  of  about  380 
miles  that  concentrates  more  to  charm  the  eye,  than  can  be  found 
upon  any  equal  extent  in  North  America,  if  Jioi  upon  the  earth. 
The  St.  Lawrence  river  and  islands,  the  sl.ores  and  rapids,  the 
distant  moimtuins,  the  contrast  of  cultivated  and  forest  land,  vil- 
lages, cities,  vessels  of  great  variety  ol"  al/.e  and  rorin,  and  the 
majestic  and  pellucid  river,  all  I'onn  a  tuit  enseiublejlhixl  ciui with 
^ilficulty  find  a  parallel, 

Returning  by  the  Kichelieu  river,  lake  Chalnplain,  and  Hudson 
river  to  Albany  and  New-York,  will  complete  this  truly  delightful 
lour.  'Ihe  Ibllowing  list  of  stages  and  distances,  will  give  more 
piecise  ideas  ol"  the  time  necessary  to  peiform  the  Ibregoing  tour. 


Npw-Ycrk  ^0  Albany.* 

Utica,    ^        -        w. 

Auburn,       -        ■« 

Geneva, 

Canandaigua, 

Genesee  river,         ^ 

IJatavia, 

Hufialo,  - 

Dunkirk,     - 

Xrie,      -        -        - 


iMILKS. 


16Q 

160 

101 

261 

74 

3.J5 

22 

35/ 

i6 

373 

26 

3y9 

-  26 

425 

4U 

465 

45 

510 

4j 

556 

*  I  have  given  the  above,  because  that  number  of  miles  is  genr 
erally  understood  to  exist  between  the  tvso  cities.  The  estimate 
is,  however,  eiioneous  ;  it  is,  within  a  sn:all  fi action  of  a  mii^, 
)45  miles  from  New-York  to  Albany. 


i)  '1 


xlvi 


iKNERAL  REMARKS. 


[addenda  no.  IX. 


',. 


•Vf 


Clcvelnnrl,  -,---.... 
Sandusky  Buy,        --,-_„ 

lijiss  Islands,        -        ..         -        ^        -        »        . 
Moiilh  of  Detroit  rivei-,  -        -        -        ^        . 
Ai^jlioistbiug,       ------, 

DETROIT  CITV,  -        ,        ,        -        . 

Return  to  Buffalo,  p  ... 

Thence  to  the  falls  of  Niacaja,         -        -        - 
Queeuslown  and  Lewisloii,  -        -        -        -        - 
Fori  Niaj^arsi  and  Fort  George,  cuter  lake  Ontario, 
Genesee  river,     -----.. 
(ireat  Sodus  Bay,    ,----- 
Oswego  river,      - 

8acket\s  Harbor, 

Cape  Vincent,  enter  St.  Kawreucc  viver,       t        * 
Brogkyilie,  Canada,  and  Morrislown  in  \J,  S. 
0<j;densl)urgh  U.  S.  and  I'reacolt  in  Canada, - 
lJ[|)j)er  end  of  Grand  Gallop  Jsla)ids, 
Lower  end  of  djllo,     ------ 

Hamilton,  U.  S.       - 

Cornwall  in  Canada,  St.  llegia  U.  S.  45'*  N,  lat.     , 

JVIonlreal,         -         -        -        -         ^        -        , 

Three  Rivers,      ------- 

Quebec,-         ------- 

}*'>t',.'n  to  Montreal,    r         -        -        -        -        - 

jMailsburg, -        - 

;'(janv,       -----^,-. 
iSew-Yurk,     ------- 


MILEH. 


90 

645 

50 

695 

16 

711 

23 

73„ 

5 

739 

16 

755 

290 

1 ,045 

21 

!  ,066 

7 

1,073 

7 

1,080 

74 

1,154 

3.-5 

1,189 

28 

i.2ir 

40 

1,257 

20 

1,277 

50 

i,3?r 

12 

1,3  39 

5 

1,314 

9 

1  ,o  .1 1» 

10 

1,36.; 

35 

1,398 

60 

l,45ai 

,105 

1,56.; 

65 

l,62f} 

.6i 

1,793 

73 

l,86G 

178 

2.044 

i60 

2,20-1. 

i.'.'i! 


i'MiV  •,■ 


fn  the  above  table,  the  diatanccs  are  given  rather  from  public 
estimates  than  from  real  measurement,  ami  are  consequently  too> 
high,  by  perhaps  nine  or  ten  percent.,  as  is  the  case  between 
New- York f^ttd  Albany ;  the  relative  distances  I  believe  to  !>e  near 
Jy  correct. 

This  fine  tour  can  be  made  within  llie  period  of  forty  days^ 
with  ample  time  to  see  the  most  remarkable  oj  jects  to  be  found 
uppu  the  route.  TJie  necessary  expense  cannot  be  so  easily  es- 
timated, but  would  certainly  fall,  for  one  person,  below  three 
liundred  dollars.  The  best  season  of  the  year  would  be  July  and 
August;  thoug'^  to  enjoy  the  luxii'-y  of  a  Canadian  summer,  the 
traveller  must  b©  Qn  the  St.  Lawrence  in  JuJy  aud  *h<'  <r">r\y  pr , .. 
bf  August. 


NDA  NO.  It. 


summer,  the 


4iI>UKiNDA  NO.  II.]  \H}\.  CLI.NTON's  MKSbAGli. 


xlvki 


The  luhUcss  of  Governor  Clinton,  lo  the  h::gislalurc  of  the  stale 
pf  New- York  reiu.hcd  the  city  of  New- York,  <in  the  evciiin!;  of 
the  7lh  January,  1819.  The  foregoinj,' part  of  this  Addenda  was 
then  in  type,  |iul  I  consideietl  some  part  of  the  (»overnor'saddr<'SS 
of  so  inuch  import,  and  .so  ri'levant  to  liie  subject  on  which  tlie 
A«hlenda  itself  was  loiinded,  thai  I  have  liiken  tlie  iiheily  lo  SU' 
]ieradd  the  following  exlrucls  from  that  iii|ninous»  production.  I 
uni  the  moiv  embold(.Mied  to  this  jnocedurc,  fro^n  considering  the 
senlimenls  expressed,  and  the  fads  conveyed  by  that  exTxilent 
statesman,  as  national  j)roperty, 

"  The  progress  of  oia-  internal  improvements  has  ecpialled  om 
most  sanguine  expectations.     Tm  tlie  course  of  the  next  sessiojn,^ 
the  Northern  Cat;:il,  extending  from  Whitehall  at  the  head  of  lake 
Chaniplain,  lo  Fort  Ldward,  on  the  Hudson  river,  a  distance  of 
23  miles,  and  the  vvholeof  the  middle  section  of  the  Western  Ca- 
nal comprising  ninely-lbur  miles,  and  reaching  lioin  the  Seneca 
river  to  the  Wohawk  rjver  at  Utica,  will  be  completed  and  in  a  na- 
vigable stale.     Thus;,  in  less  than  two  and  a  'alf  years,  Canals  ta 
the  extent  of  one  hundred  and  seventeen  milcv'  will  be  perfected. 
And,  as  the  enstern  and  western  sections  of  the  Camil  fiom  lake 
Va'ic  ».o  Hudson  river  will  be  about  260  uiiles,  it  is  (ivident  tiiat;, 
hy  the  applicatioti  of  sipiilar  ineans  and  the  exertion  of  similai- 
powers,  the  whole  of  this  inleinal  navigation  can  be  finished  ir 
hix  years  from  the  j)resent  perip^l.  including  also  tlie  im))rovements 
essential  on  Hudsop  river,  from  Fort  Edward  to  the  head  of  sloop, 
navigation.     It  is  satisfactory  also  to  know  ihat,  so  far  as  we  can 
Judge  from  the  lights  of  experience,  t]»e  aerial  expenses  have  not 
exceeded  the  estimates  of  the  commissioners.     And,  with  all  thc^ 
pd\anlages  arising  from  encieased  knowledge, from  impiovcd  skill 
and  fiom  circumspect  experience,  we  are  fiindy  persuaded,  that 
the  aggregate  exp  Misq  will  fall  short  of  ll  e  total  estimate.     It  is 
4   filso  a  inost   gratifying  consideiaiion  lo  hnd,  thai  fiom  the  pro- 
gressive and  (Ipurislung  slate  of  the  fund  appropriated  lo  this  ob- 
ject, the  whole  undertaking  can  be  completed  without  providing 
any  auxiliary  Jcsource!?,  and  without  imposing  any  taxes  on  the 
community.     From  the  commencement  of  the  next  year,  the  fir 
nished  portions  of  the  Canals  will  be  in  a  state  productive  of  con-* 
siderable  revenue. 

'"  By  the  act  rcsppcling  nangable  communications  between  lli© 


I. 


.;:;;r ,     | 


xlviii 


GOV.  Clinton's  Mr;a3A(3B.       [addknua  no.  ii. 


S'- 


i,t!r',-  ,  ■. 


greht  western  and  rioitlieni  lakes  and  the  Atlantic  ocean,  [fhssed 
tJie  I5tli  April,  1817,  the  conunissioners  are  only  empowered  to 
in.ike  Canals  between  Mie  Mohawk  and  Seneca  rivers,  and  be- 
tween lake  Chaniplain  and  the  Hudson  liver.  Possessing,  liow- 
cver,  under  that  act,  and  the  art  to  provide  for  the  improvement 
of  the  internal  navigation  of  the  state,  passed  the  I7ih  April,  1816, 
Ruthority  to  make  the  necessary  surveys,  and  to  lay  out  the  pro- 
per routes  for  the  \vho!e  of  the  Western  and  Northern  ('urals, 
they  have  not  overlooked  the  latter,  aW'iough  their  attention  has 
been  principally  devoted  to  (he  fornn'r  object.  By  that  initiatory 
arrangement,  it  was  obviously  the  intention  of  the  l.egislatine  to 
bring  the  calculations  of  the  commissioners  to  the  louchslone  of 
experiment,  and  lojdelerniiiio  whelher  the  lesomces  of  the  slate 
are  adequate  to  the  whole  operation. 

"  This  trial  has  tnk<m  place  in  the  most  satisfactory  manner^ 
and  there  cannot  exist  a  doubt  of  the  feasibility  of  the  work,  or 
of  the  ability  of  the  stale.  It  is  therefore  highly  expedient  that 
a  law  should  be  passed,  during  tlie  present  session,  authqiistng 
die  completion  of  the  whole  work  as  soon  as  possible.  In  the 
course  of  this  j  ear  the  routes  can  be  then  so  fardetinitively  settled, 
as  to  enable  the  f<yrinalion  of  contracts  to  takp  elfcct  in  tlie  sprin^j 
of  1820,  by  which  means  a  whole  year  will  be  saved  to  the  ope- 
ration, and  the  state  will  have  the  benefit  of  experienced  con- 
tractors, who  might,  under  a  ditferent  state  of  things,  be  employ- 
ed in  other  undertakings.  And,  wlien  we  contemplate  the  im- 
mense benefits  which  will  be  derived  from  the  consequent  pro- 
motioh  of  agriculture,  manufactures,  and  commerce — from  the 
acquisition  of  revenue— from  the  establishment  of  character,  and 
from  the  consolidation  of  the  federal  union,  we  must  feel  ourselves 
impelled  by  the  most  comn>anding  motives,  to  proceed  in  our 
honorable  career^  by  perfecting  wilh  all  possible  expedition  this 
inland  navigation. 

*i'  At  the  present  period  a  ton  of  commodities  can  be  convey- 
ed from  Buffalo  to  Albany  by  land  for  ^100,  and  to  Montreal, 
principally  by  water,  for  25.  Hence  it  is  obvious  that  the  whole 
of  the  vast  region  to  the  west  of  that  flourishing  village,  and  the 
gi eater  part  of  the  extensive  and  fertile  country  east  of  it,  arc 
prevented  from  sending  tl;eir  productions  to  our  corpmercial 
emporium,  and  that  th^y  must  either  resort  to  the  prccariou» 


CUA  NO.  Tf. 


AUDKMOA  WO.  ll.J  UOV.    CMNTON's   MESsAGE. 


Xlix 


J  manrier» 


markets  of  Canada,  or,  to  places  more  distant,  Ics3  accessible,  or 
less  advantageous.  Wlicii  the  ^reut  western  canal  is  fmished, 
the  expense  of  transportation  from  IhiflTalo  to  Albany,  will  not 
exceed  .^10  a  ton.  Almost  the  w..ole  of  the  ascending  trade  of 
the  west  will  be  derived  from  the  city  of  New- York,  and  a  great 
portion  of  the  descending  jiroducts  will  accumulate  in  that  im- 
portant depot.  \i  half  a  million  of  tons  are,  at  the  present  pe- 
riod, transported  on  the  waters  of  the  Hudson  river,  it  is  reasoi>- 
able  to  suppose  that  the  time  is  not  distant,  when  the  commodi- 
ties conveyed  on  the  Canals  will  be  equal  in  amount.  A  small 
transit  duty  will  consequently  produce  an  immense  incon*«^  aj)- 
plicable  to  the  speedy  extinguishment  of  the  debt  contracted  for 
the  ('auals,  and  to  the  prosoculion  of  other  important  improve- 
ments. 

"  In  tljcsc  works,  then,  we  behold  the  operation  of  a  powerful 
engine  of  fiimnce,  and  of  a  prolific  source  of  revenue. 

"  li  is  certainly  more  important,  tlmt  the  productive  classes  ot 
society  should  have  good  markets,  out  of  the  state,  than  that  they 
should  be  exclusively  confined  to  indilferent  or  Huclualing  mar- 
kets in  it.  In  the  former  case,  wealth  is  diffused  over  the  whok 
country,  while  in  the  latter,  it  is  limited  to  a  veiy  few  towns.  A 
wise  governnient  ought  to  encourage  communications  with  those 
places,  where  the  farmer  and  manufacturer  can  sell  at  the  high- 
est, and  buy  at  the  lowest  prices.  And,  as  the  acquisition  of  ma- 
ny markets  encreases  the  chance  of  good  ones,  and  diminisjies/ 
in  many  instances,  the  expences  of  transportation^  and  guards 
against  the  pernicious  lluctualions  of  price^  1  look  forward  with 
pleasure  to  the  speedy  arrival  of  the  time,  when  the  state  will  be 
able  to  improve  the  navigation  of  the  Susquehanna,  the  Allegany, 
the  Genesee,  and  St.  Lawrence-*to  assist  in  connecting  the  wa** 
ters  of  the  great  lakes  and  of  the  Mississippi — lo  form  a  junction 
between  the  western  Canal  and  lake  Ontario  by  the  Oswego  river, 
and  to  promote  the  laudable  intention  of  Pennsylvania,  to  unite 
the  Seneca  lake  with  the  head  waters  of  the  Susquehanna." 

The  calculation  contained  in  theSe  extracts,  of  the  time  neces- 
sary to  complete  the  Grand  Canal  between  Albany  and  Duffalo, 
and  the  canal  from  the  Hudson  river  to  lake  Champlain,  are 
founded  upon  data,  that  are  too  well  based  to  admit  either  refuta- 
tion or  cavil.     If  the  slate  of  Xevv-York  is  left  by  the  nation  at 


l!.^ 


11^ 


1 


OOV.    rUNTON's   MESSAGE.  [ADDENliA  NO.  ^ii 


■i.C      I 


large  to  carry  into  eflTect  this  mighty  project,  unaided,  and  iit 
some  measure  opposed  ;  and  should  a  single  state,  thus  placed^ 
actually  ellect  such  an  undertaking,  the  result  will  exhibit  the  most 
extraordinary  instance  of  the  energy  of  a  small  part,  and  the 
hpatliy  of  the  residue  of  the  people  of  t'lc  United  States,  that  hu.< 
yet  met  the  eye  of  mankind.  Such  an  issue,  will  lie  glorious  in- 
deed to  New- York,  but  .shamefid  to  the  nation  ;  it  will  be  a  tri- 
umph of  active  reason,  over  inert  prejudice.  But  in  such  modes 
and  manner  ;  in  the  struggle  of  science  against  prescriptive 
opinion,  has  the  progress  of  mankind  hiiherto  advanced.  The 
Grand  Canal  will  be  an  eternal  monument  erected  to  the  memory 
of  its  projectors  and  executors;  and  the  most  solacing  rellectioiu 
that  presses  upon  the  mind  when  contemplating  this  unequalled 
change  made  upon  the  physiognomy  of  nature,  is,  that  not  one 
drop  of  this  artificial  flood  will  be  drained  from  th'e  tears  of  suf- 
fering humanity.  When  the  present  generations  have  passed 
away^and  when  the  future  voyager  is  wafted  along  the  picturesque 
vale  of  the  Mohawk,  amid  all  that  can  decorate  the  earth  and  de- 
light the  senses,  he  will  recall  with  unmixed  admiration  the  names 
of  those  whose  genius  procured  such  beneficence  to  the  men  ol 
every  passing  age/ 


I'r'-i-':; 


^.NdA  NO.  iV* 


ADOILHUtV  NO.  UI.] 


u.u.i.iiTiJCt  »irnu<6i!v 


li 


NO.  lit 


BAI.LSTON  SPRIXGS, 

If  was  witli  much  rcj^ret  llint  on  niy  rt'lnrn  to  Albanvj  t  cotiM 
not  spare  time  to  visit  Ballstoii.  rurio.Vity  t<»  sec  one  of  the  most 
noted  phicos  ol'  public  resort  in  the  IFniled  Slates,  wrtuUl  have 
led  me  to  that  vilUige,  and  over  its  environs,  but  rails  ol'a  more 
Imperative  nature,  deprived  me  of  such  a  ]>Ieasure.  The  fol- 
lowing letter  conlhins  tery  satisfactory  infonnrttion  respectiuf: 
those  celebrated  waters^  and  from  its  source  is  entitled  to  full 
xionfidence. 

"  Ballstun-Spct,  jyoitember  27,  181 8. 

"  The  rthme  ef  Balislon,  lliough  frequently  applied  to  the 
villa);je  at  the  mineral  springs,  belongs  in  stiietness  to  a  township 
ahoiU  five  miles  scpiare,  tire  north  boundary  of  which  falls  within/ 
and  embraces  a  part  of  the  villajre  ;  the  principal  portion  ol 
which  lies  within  the  adjacent  township  of  Milton. 

"  This  village  was  indorporaJcd  in  1807,  by  the  name  of  Balls- 
lon-Spa,  is  un  ler  the  government  of  three  Trristees,  annually 
chosen,  and  invested  with  certain  privileges,  tin-  the  better  regu- 
lation of  its  own  peculiar  concerns,  though  for  civil  purposes  gen- 
erally, a  part  thereof  acts  with  the  town  of  Dallston,  and  a  part 
with  the  town  of  Millori. 

"  The  distinction  between  Ballstoii  and  Callston-Spa,  ought  to  be 
carefully  observed  by  all  who  have  occttsion  to  correspond  with 
visitants  at  tlu^se  celebrated  waters ;  a  {jrost-oHice  being  establish- 
ed, not  only  at  this  place  but  also  in  the  town  of  Ballston,  at 
some  distance  from  the  village.  A  similar  observation  might  be 
made  with  respect  to  Saratoga,  and  Saratoga  Springs. 

"  The  village  of  Ballston-Si)a  i4  in  the  county  of  Saratoga,  26 
miles  Jiorlh  of  the  city  of  Albany,  in  a  beautiful  and  romantic 
situation.  It  lies  within  and  along  side  of  a  valley,  through 
which  flows  a  stream  of  watei-,  emptying  itself  immediately  l>e-* 
low  the  village,  into  the  Kayadarosscras  creek.  This  vallev  com- 
^nences  at  the  south-west^  wlicru  the  stream,  which  had  previously 


~S'^1 


til 


BALLiTOX   SI*niNGS.  [.\UflE>DA  NO.  Ill, 


VU    : 
|V.' 

Ik- 


i?i* 


I'  ',5-V»J 


flowed  towards  tiic  soutii,  fetches  a  short  compass  round  a  point 
of  land  towards  the  north-east,  runs  some  distance  in  that  direc- 
tiOnj  then  turns  and  ptisses  off  towards  the  oast.  The  valiey  fol- 
lows the  course  of  the  creek,  is  narrow  it  first ;  but  alter  it  ha^ 
taken  an  eastern  direclini,  its  north  bank  suddenly  recedes,  and 
forms  a  beautiful  plaih^djlening  to  view  thJ  Kayadarosseras  and 
its  buiUhn«4S.  The  north-west  side  of  the  valley  is  bordered  by 
sautl  hills,  high  and  very  steep.  At  the  south-west  eiid  commen- 
ces a  smooth  and  gentle  ridge  of  land,  which  runs  tast,  sloping 
towards  the  north,  until  making  a,  gradual  ^iircuit,  it  turns  its  in- 
clining surface  towards  the  west  T^he  tcrniination  of  this  slope 
is  the  (Jurviiig  bank  )f  the  valley  along  its  south-eastern  side,  on 
wiiich  bank  the  greater  part  oi'  the  village  is  built.  The  high 
sand  hills  on  the  north-wesi,  the  ridge  of  land  on  the  south  and 
east,  with  the  open  plain  on  the  north-east,  form  the  natural  boun- 
daries of  the  vi  ila^e. 

"  This  village  contains  112  houses,  exclusive  of  out-housrS, 
some  of  which  being  attached  to  favernS  and  Ijtrge  hotels,  are 
extensive,  and  add  considerably  to  the  village.  The  number  of 
inliabitants  is  614.  It  is  a  place  of  considerable  business  through- 
out the  year  ;  the  lands  in  the  iieighborhood,  <vith  the  exception 
of  the  pine  plains  towards  the  north,  being  generally  fertile,  and 
the  trade  of  the  inhribilants  centering  here.  There  are  at  pre- 
.sent  six  large  stores  for  the  sale  of  dry  goods  and  groceries,  aft 
extensive  hardware  and  two  drug^gist  stores  ;  two  printing  offices^ 
and  a  bookstore,  with  which  is  connected.  An*  the  accommodation 
of  strangers,  a  circJabting  library  and  a  reading  room.  On  the 
Kayadaross^ras,  a  large  and  never  failing  stream,  mills  for  vari- 
ous purposes,  with  a  cupola  furnace  have  been  erected,  at  a  little 
distance  from,  and  within  sight  of  the  village.  The  court-house 
for  the  county  of  Saratoga  is  located  fiore,  and  is  a  large  brick 
edifice,  newly  erected  aiiv»  well  built.  We  have  also  two  houses 
for  pubUc  worship,  an  Ejjlscopal  and  a  Baptist  church,  in  which 
respectable  congregations  statedly  assemble  ;  likewise  an  Acade- 
m}',  in  which  ft  nurnerous  and  reputable  school  is  constantly 
taught.  The  inhabitants  are  intelligent,  industrious,  frugal,  and 
remarkably  tem,)ornte.  A  moderate  'degree  of  refinement  and 
fasliion  prevail*.     .R(^gui.'uity  nrid  good  oide**  e\ist  to  a  consideir- 


ilj,  !■■■?- T"    ■ 


NDA  NO.  Ill, 


ADDENDA  NO.  III.] 


BAl,L3T0N  SPRlNa.*}. 


Jai 


able  degree,  though  as  to  reUgloii  and  morality,  it  rr)iiist  be  con- 
fessed, we  fall  much  below  the  christian  sta.tdard. 

This  place  i§  famous  for  its  mineral  waters,  which  with  those 
of  Saratoga  near  by,  have  attracted  unconunon  attention,  and 
annually  draw  ^reat  numbers  from  all  parts  to  visi(  them,  in  the 
summer  season.  Hence  in  addition  to  several  inns,  therp  are 
three  large  boarding  houses*  expressly  designed  for  the  accom- 
mqdqilion  of  Strangers,  at  the  season  of  gene  resort.  TThc 
largest  of  these,  the  Sans  Souci  Hotel,  will  vie  wnliany  cstablish- 
uientqf  a  similar  nature,  for  the  style  in  whjch  it  is  }i:epi,  and  as 
a  sp^ciqus,  t^iry,  and  pommodioiie  building.  It  presents  a  front 
three  stories  high,  and  '60  fe^t  in  length,  extends  back  in  a  wing 
at  each  end  153  feet,  is  surrounded  by  a  spacious  and  beautiful 
yard,  which,  wijth  its  extensive  piazzas^  large  hall,  and  spaciou.s 
jsissembly-foom,  render  it  a  delightful  place.  Here  the  rich,  gay, 
and  fashionable,  resort  in  crowds,  during  the  months  of  July  and 
August.  It  is  calculat«Ml  for  the  reception  of  130  boarders,  and 
frequently  exceeds  that  number.  Next  to  the  San  Souci,  Al- 
dridge's  boarding-house  is  the  naoi;^  noted.  It  stands  in  the  val- 
ley, at  the  foot  of  a  high  sand  hill,  nearly  opposite  the  public^ 
and  formerly  the  principal  spring,  and  is  handsomely  bordered 
on  the  east  and  sOuth  by  a  cuurt-yard  and  garden,  by  the  side  of 
which  flows  the  rivulet  of  the  valley.  The  building  itself  is  nof 
elegant,  yet  the  repulatipii  of  the  house  is  deservedly  higji,  and 
draws  to  it  its  full  share  of  public  pajlronage. 

•  Bdllston-Spa. — By  the  Registm*  kept  at  the  Reading  Room  at 
Ballston  Springs,  (says  the  Commercial  Advertiser^it  appears  that 
jthe  number  of  persons  who  have  visited  those  Springs,  during  the 
past  season,  1818,  amounts  to  t^^ro  thousand  dve  hundred.  Of 
this  number  more  than  twelve  hgndred,  it  is  stated,  live  south  of 
New- York.     It  is  also  stated,  that  the  whole  ijum|>er  were  accc^ii^- 


modated  with  board  and  lodging  as  follo\v§  : 
At  J.  B.  Aldridge's 
At  Sans  Souci  Hotel 
At  David  Cory's 
At  other  houses 


?50 
800 
5Q0 
250 


1: 
il 


■i 


tr,i  i 


Total      2,50Q 
[It  is  fair  to  calculate  that  the  average  expenditure  at  the 
(above  place,  was  50  dollars  a  piece — In  this  case  tbe,i>umt9t4 
is  125,000  dollars.]— Gflsf. 

V 


Iw 


ballston  srn^NGs. 


[addenda  no.  llS' 


m^. 


\         !■ 


The  third  large  Uoarding-housc  is  Corey's,-  formerly  Mrs. 
White's.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  the  valley,  on  the  ridge  of  land^ 
which  runs  along  the  souiJ;  side  of  the  village.  The  building  and 
its  accomnAodations  rank  with  Aldridge's,  yet  being  in  a  situation 
more  retired  and  remote  from  the  springs,  though  highly  pleasant 
and  agreeable,  it  is  less  known  and  less  frequented. 

The  existence  of  this  village,  is  owing  entirely  to  the  mineral 
tiprings,  which  in  this  favored  spot,  rise  up  from  the  bowels  of  the 
earth.  These,  exclusive  of  a  sulphur  spring  which  has  attracted 
little  or  no  attention,  were  but  lately  two  in  number,  one  on  the 
private  property  of  Nicholas  Low,  Esq.  over  which  he  has  erec- 
ted a  handsome  bathing-house,  and  the  other  in  the  publi  c  high- 
Avay,  nearly  opposite  Alldridge's  boarding-house.  According  to 
Mead's  Analysis,  which  sustains  a  high  reputation,  the  public 
well  contains  in  one  quart  of  water  : 


Grains. 
42 


1 
S 
11 
9 
1 


3-4 
1-4 
3-4 
1-4 


Muriat  of  Soda 
Muriatof  Magnesia 
Muriat  of  Lime 
Carbonate  of  Magnesia 
Carbonate  of  Lime 
Oxide  of  Iron, 


Of  aeriform  fluids : 
Carb  )nic  acid  gas 
Azotic  gas 


Total,     63  1-2 
And  Low's  well  contains  exactly  the  same  ingredients,  in  near- 
ly the  same  quantities. 

"  The  natural  appearance  of  these  springs  is  curious  and  pleas> 
ing ;  their  waters  are  in  continual  agitation,  are  perfectly  trans- 
parent, and  have  a  saline,  pungent,  and  to  those  accustomed  to 
them,  a  most  agreeable  taste.  They  possess  a  stimulating  and 
refreshing  quality.  Under  the  exhaustion  of  heat  and  fatigue, 
nothing  tan  be  more  agreeable  and  reviving  to  the  system.  As 
{Powerful  remedies  also,  in  many  cases  of  diseajsc,  they  are  well 
known  and  highly  celebrated. 


Total, 

69 

Cubic  Inches, 

m 

61 

2 

1-2 

ir 


^i^ 


P 


!•  ' ." 


IDA  NO.  Its- 


A  DOEKDA  NO.  III.] 


BALLSTON    Sl'RI  N(iS. 


j[v 


'*  These  springs,  however  curious  and  excellent  as  they  reallj* 
are,  have  beeil  recently  eclipsed  by  a  new  spring,  which  little 
more  than  a  year  since  burst  from  the  earth.    In  the  month  of 
August,  1817,  continual  rains  had  swollen  the  creek,  which  passes 
through  this  place,  to  a  very  great  height,  and  produced  a  destruc- 
tive flood.     In  the  centre  of  the  village,  the  furious  stream  cut  for 
itself  a  new  course,  and  a  few  rotls  lower  down,  it  again  diverted 
a  little  from  its  former  channel,  which  upon  the  subsiding  of  the  i 
water  was  left  dry.    In  this  deserted  channel,  which  a  few  years 
ago  had  been  artifieially  made  for  the  purpose  of  turning  the 
creek  from  its  natural  course,  veins  of  u^inei-^l  water  were  soon 
<^iscovered  issuing  up  through  the  sand,  and  forming  on  the  sur* 
face  a  large  fountain.    As  the  water  rose  through  a  deep  bed  of 
loose  gravel,  blue  clay,  and  quicksand,  was  foul,  discoloured,  an4 
mingled  with  large  quantities  of  fresh  water ;  great  difficulties 
were  apprehended  in  getting  it  into  a  state  proper  for  use.     This 
object,  however,  has  been  happily  accomplished,  an.d  in  a  simple 
and  easy  manner.     Two  tubes  have  been  forced  down  to  differ 
ent  depths,  through  which  rise  waters  diflering  considerably  in 
their  qualities,  and  constituting  in  fact  two  new  springs.    Tlie 
first  tube  was  sunk  to  the  depth  of  fourteen  feet,  is  on  a  level  with 
the  surrounding  earth,  and  being  not  perfectly  tight  at  the  top, 
never  overflows  with  water.    The  depth  of  tbe  second  tube  below 
the  surface  of  the  earth,  is  twenty-three  feet,  and  into  it  an  addi- 
tional tube  five  feet  loiig  has  been  inserted,  through  the  whole  of 
which  length,  that  is,  twenty-eight  feet,  the  water  rises  to  the  sur- 
face, boiling  and  sparkling  in  the  most  curious  and  beautiful  man-> 
Tier,  and  falling  down  in  every  direction  over  the  sides  of  the  tube. 
These  springs,  especially  the  latter,  it  has  been  proposed  to  call 
the  Washington  fountain  ;  and  they  arc  commonly  distinguished 
from  each  other  by  the  descriptive  appellations  of  the  low  and 
the  high  tube. 

"  With  regard  to  the  qualities  of  these  waters,  I  cannot  do  bet- 
ter than  to  make  a  few  extracts  from  a  letter,  published  in  the 
New- York  Evening  Post,  of  the  26th  of  September  last,  written 
by  Dr.  Mead,  to  the  Editor  of  that  paper. 

<  I  have  found,'  saith  he,  *  that  the  Washington  fountain  (mean- 
ing thereby  the  high  tube.)  contains  more  carbonic  acid  gas,  than 
any  other  mineral  spring  which  has  ever  been  examined  in  this 


iiii 


m 


BALLST^K    SPRINGS. 


[addenda  no.  111. 


irv 


i^> 


f  ■  I 


1 1 


I.  ' 


i « 


coiniiry,  and  certainly  much  more  than  Any  in  Europe  of  y/h'itU 
we  have  any  correct  account : — one  quart  of  this  water,  oy  55,750 
cubic  inches  of  it,  contains  nearly  76  cubic  incites  of  this  gas. 
The  adjoining  well  does  not  contain  any  thing  like  thte  saihe  quan- 
tity of  gas. 

*  The  next  valuable  qualities  which  these  springs  pdsscss^  arise 
from  the  quantity  of  iron  which  they  contain,  held  in  solution  by 
the  carb6nic  acid.  According  to  my  former  analysis  of  the  Ball- 
ston  and  Saratoga  waters,  T  never  fouiid  any  of  them  to  con  lain 
more  than  one  grain  of  iron  in  a  quart,  but  1  think  I  may  ven- 
ture to  statej  from  alctual  expei-irhents,  that  the  Washington  foun- 
tain contain^  nearly  double  that  quantity ;  but  the  adjoining 
spring  not  quite  sd  much. 

*  With  respi3Ct  to  the  saline  conte  Is  of  these  springs,  they  do 
not  differ  materially  in  quality  fibm  those  waters  at  Ballstoa,  the 
analysis  of  which  I  have  given  to  the  public.  None  of  them  con- 
tain sul|:(hats;  in  this  they  diHer  from  most  mineral  waters;  their 
cathartic  propertied,  therefore,  are  derived  principally  fioni  the 
muriat  of  soda,  r»r  coinmon  salt,  with  wi.ch  they  are  impregnat- 
ed. The  Washington  fountain,  however,  contains  less  of  this  salt 
than  any  of  the  springs  either  at  Ballston  bi-  Saratoga,  while  the 
adjoining  spring  contains  much  more  than  any  of  them,  except 
the  Congress  spring 

*  The  Washiiigton  Fountain  is  io  highly  charged  with  carbonit 
acid  gas,  and  tontahis  also  so  much  iron,  that  it  may  be  ranked 
in  thie  first  class  of  tonic  remedies;  but  at  the  same  time,  it  is  one 
the  iise  of  ^hich  i-equives  much  caution.  It  possesses  all  the 
good  qualities  which  are  attributed  either  to  the  waters  of  the 
Seltzer  or  Pyrniont,  find  J>onie  of  them  in  a  superior  degree.  It 
is  superior  to  the  Seltzer  or  Spa,  in  cohtniningiion,in  which  they 
are  both  deficient i  and  it  dilfcris  matclially  frorn  the  Pyrmoni,  in 
containing  a  stiiricicnt  quantity  of  mukiate  of  Soda,  to  afct  as  Ji 
tooling  ifebrirugp,  oi,d  to  counteract,  iii  some  degree,  the  heating 
an(|  stihiulating  qualiliis  of  ihe  other  ingredients^  which,  in  some 
constitutions,  would  totally  forbid  the  u^e  of  them.  1  have  nevet 
BS  yet  met  with,  nor  have  I  heard  of  ary  water  that  so  niparly 
resembles  the  watri-s  of  Germany,  as  the  Washington  fountain. 
It  may  be  drank  with  great  advantage  in  all  cases  of  general  de. 
bility,  where  tliere  is  great  relaxation  and  loss  of  tone  ;  aiifl  par- 
ticularly in  diseases  of  the  stomach.* 


A  NO.  lif. 


Addenda  no.  in.]  ballston  springs. 


Ivii 


sess.  arise 


"  Of  the  adjoining  spring,  that  is  the  low  tube,  Doctor  Mead 
remarks,  that  it '  has  been  found  to  possess  very  powerful  purga- 
tive qualities,  and  may  be  considered  as  a  s6tt  of  intermediate 
between  the  waters  of  Ballston  and  Saratoga.  It  is  evidently^ 
even  to  the  taste,  more  saline  than  any  of  the  springs  at  Uallston> 
t)r  than  any,  excepting  one,  at  Saratoga  ;  and  I  have  found  by 
analysis,  that  it  contains  nearly  one-fiflh  more  of  muriate  of 
soda  or  common  salt,  than  any  other,  except  that  one ;  and  be- 
sides, possesses  in  the  same  proportion,  all  the  other  ingredients, 
isuch  as  carbonate  of  magnesia,  carbonate  of  lime,  and  iron. 
It  cannot  therefore  be  doubted,  that  it  becomes  a  very  active  pur- 
gative, sufficiently  effectual  to  answer  almost  all  useful  purposes, 
particularly  if  drank  under  proper  management,  and  with  du6 
precaution  ;  the  neglect  of  which  will  not  only  prevent  the  Con- 
gress water  fiom  having  the  desired  effect,  but  render  too  free  a 
\ise  of  it  highly  injurious  to  the  system.' 

"  Of  a  place  abounding  with  such  invaluable  waters,  the  geol- 
bgy  must  be  intfiresting.  As  that,  however,  is  a  science  to  which 
I  make  no  pretensions,  I  beg  leave  again  to  refer  to  Doctor  i^lead, 
whose  observations  upon  this  subject,  may  be  lound  in  the  intro- 
ductory l^art  of  his  chemical  analysis  of  the  waters  of  Dallstoii 
iand  Saratoga, fr^m  which  the- following  extracts  are  made. 

'  In  ilie  center  of  the  village  of  Ballston,  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity is  offered  of  examining  the  situation  of  the  strata.  A 
Ismail  rivulet  runs  through  it,  which  has  laid  bare  an  entire  range 
t)f  (loGtz  or  horizontal  rocks,  consisting  of  what  may  be  called  a 
calcario  argillaceous  schist  oi-  shale.  This  schist  is  nearly  of  A 
black  colour,  and  from  its  staining  the  fingers,  would  appear  to 
contain  a  portion  of  carbon  ;  it  eiferveSces  slightly  with  acids, 
Avhich  shews  that  it  also  contains  carbonate  of  lime  ;  it  breaks 
¥;a^ily  into  laminae  of  any  thickness,  Knd  itnpr<-ssidns  of  vigefa- 
bles,  cliiefly  of  a  species  of  grass,  can  be  observed  between  the 
laniinee:  ;  bul  when  large  masses  are  exposed  for  any  length  of 
time  to  the  atmospheVe,  it  rApidly  shivers,  or  decomposes.' 

*  Alternating  with  this  schist,  and  near  the  same  place,  wlicr- 
ever  the  beds  of  sand  will  admit  an  inspection  of  the  rock,  solid 
masses  of  calcareous  rocks  are  observed.  This  limestone  is  near- 
ly of  a  black  colour,  its  fracture  is  slaty,  it  abounds  with  shells  of 
various  forms,  some  of  which  are  so  very  apparent  in  their  struc- 
ture and  fuiiii^us  not  to  be  mistaken. 


li' 


J'! 


■i' 


VIII 


BALLSTON   apIllNClS. 


[addekda  x'o.  itn 


Ml 


•  Hesidcs  these  rocks  winch  I  have  attempted  to  descrile,  and 
which  characterise  a  secondary  country,  it  is  necessary  to  state 
that  tliose  undulating  hills  which  surround  the  village  of  Ballston, 
and  which  continue  to  prevail  in  the  village  of  Saratoga,  are 
formed  principally  of  immense  beds  of  line  siliceous  sand,  as 
may  l>e  particularly  observed  in  the  rear  of  Aldriclge's  boarding- 
house,  where  the  height  of  one  of  these  hills,  which  is  very  pre- 
cipitous, cannot  be  less  than  150  feet;  under  this  sai:d  lies  im- 
mense beds  of  stiff  blue  clay,  which  hardens  when  left  for  any 
time  exposed  to  the  atmosphere  ;  it  effervesces  slightly,  but  does 
not  dissolve  in  acids,  from  which  I  should  rather  call  it  an  argil- 
laceous marie  ;  it  appears  with  some  probhbility  to  have  been 
formed  by  the  decomposition  of  the  schist  in  the  neighborhood  ; 
it  is  to  be  found  by  digging  in  the  valleys  in  any  direction,  and  it 
can  be  well  observed  on  the  side  of  a  declivity  near  Lowe's  well, 
where  a  considerable  saline  efflorescence  can  be  seen  on  its  sur- 
face, particularly  after  rain,  owing  to  the  chrystaliization  of  the 
Salt,  which  is  produced  by  the  sun's  rays.  This  is  a  very  inter*?st- 
ing  fact,  and  as  exactly  such  a  peculiar  species  of  clay  is  found 
to  prevail  in  the  soil  from  which  the  waters  of  Cheltenham  arise, 
it  may  tend  in  some  degree  to  explain  from  whence  waters  of  this 
description  receive  their  saline  impregnation. 

*  No  metallic  veius  of  ore  have  been  discovered  in  this  neigh- 
borhood in  any  direction  ;  and  except  iron,  which  is  found  in  all 
the  low  grounds,  in  the  state  of  an  argillaceous  or  bog  iron  ore,  I 
know  of  no  other  metalic  deposit.' 

"  This  village,  though  now  considerable,  will  probably  still  in- 
c'case,  and  receive  additional  improvements.  The  waters,  with 
those  of  Saratoga,  are  u  irivalled,  and  may  be  confidently  expect- 
e'l  to  draw  increasing  crowds  of  visitants.  The  new  springs  are  a 
lliosi  valuable  acquisition,  and  contiguous  to  them  is  an  extensive 
brick  edifice,  origiiiaily  intended  as  a  factory,  but  now  unemploy- 
ed, which,  with  capital  and  enterprise,  might  be  converted  into  a 
superb  boarding-house,  which  doubtless  would  be  filled  with 
guests,  and  prove  not  only  an  ornament  to  the  village,  but  a 
profitable  estabiishmcnt. 

With  sentiments  of  respect, 


Yours. 


REUBEN  SEARS. 


William  Daiujv. 


DA  NO.  iir: 


ADDESD.V  NO.  iV.] 


ROUTES* 


I'* 
ILK 


ROUTE  FROM  THE  CITY  OF  NEW-YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS, 

«t   HAMILTON,    PITTSnUnO,   CISOINNATf,    LOUISVILLE,    AND  THE  OHIO 

AND   MISSISSIPPI    RIVEnS. 


Newburg,     - 
Cocheclon, 
Ifamiltoii,    - 
PITTSBURG, 
Stcubenville, 
Cinciiinaii, 
Louisville, 
Mouth  of  Oliio, 
;ST.  LOUIS, 


ftllLES. 

"60 

60 

120 

294 

354 

5^61 

615 

59 

674 

363 

1037 

131 

1167 

393 

1560 

198 

17d3 

ml 


ROUTE  FROM  THE  CITY  OF  NEW-YORK  TO  ST.  LOUIS, 

fVY   ALBANY,   BUFFALO,   DETROIT,  MICHfLIMAKINAC,   LAKE    MICHIGAri, 
ILLINOIS,   AND   MlgSISSlPPI   BkVERS. 


MILES, 


Albany,       -        -        - 
Canandaigua,  - 
Buffalo, 

Erie,       -        -        - 
<];leveland,  -        -        - 
DETROIT,    - 
Fort  Gratiot, 
Michilimakinac, 
Mouth  of  Chicago  river, 
Head  of  Illinois        do. 
Mouth  of        do.  - 
ST.  LOUIS,    - 


160 


313 

o7o 

92 

465 

99 

555 

90 

645 

110 

755 

67 

822 

190 

1012 

280 

1292 

40 

1332 

400 

1732 

30 

1762 

It  will  be  at  once  seen  by  an  inspection  of  this  table,  that  the 
difference  in  distance,  by  the  two  routes,  is  trifling ;  and,  all  things 
considered,  no  great  diversity  exists  naturally  in  the  facility  oflei- 
ed,  or  innpediments  opposed  to  mercantile  transportation  j  but 
with  the  Grand  Canal  from  Albany  to  Buffalo.,  the  advantage,?  are 
obvioMsly  in  favor  of  the  northern  routc; 


3  S9  D 12  ^0 


JVaiBf  ad.  si^tiifies  Jlddenda, 


k,9bino,  point  171,  note  172. 

Albany^  author  arrives  there,  p. 
9  ;  aspect  of  the  coHnlry  be- 
tween and  Kinderhook,  p.  34, 
S5 ;  fine  view  of,  ih. 

JillmtetteSf  Point  des,  97,  note. 

Jmhersthurgy  p.  101,  notej  de- 
saibed,  193. 

..fmsferrfnn,  village  ofy  p.  45, 

Jindre^  Major,  p.  14. 

.9rno/(f,  General,  p.  14. 

•Sshtabula  river,  209. 

Mhen»i  village  of,  p.  27. 

AubuTfiy  village  of,  212, 2 1 8 ;  ceu- 
6US  of,  ib.  note;  state  prison 
at,  218. 

Jiudrain,  Peter,  Register  of  the 
land  office  at  Detroit,  supplies 
the  author  v/ith  a  manuscript 
map  of  part  of  the  Michigan 
territory,  191. 
B. 

Batavittj  village  of,  154. 

Ballaton,  road  to,  44. 
'  Spa,  ii.  ad. 

Bap  de  J\rivernoi$f  now  Sacket's 
Parbor,  70. 

— — —  Chaumont,  71. 

Bardayy  Commodore,  defeated 
by  Commodore  Perry,  21 1. 

jBass  Islands f  184, 186. 

Black  riveTf  at  Watertown,  68  ; 
at  Brownvilie,  69  j  its  rapidi- 
ty, ib. 

Blnck  Roekf  1 S8. 

Bloomfieldy  village  of,  152 ;  coun- 
try near,  its  features,  153. 

Bois  Blanch  Island,  193*. 


Booth's  Factory y  2 1 , 

Uouehette,  Mr.  Joseph,  quoted; 
86,  87,  92,  116,  203,  205. 

Boundary  lUiCj  between  the  Uni- 
ted St,  jes,  and  Upper  Canada^ 
proceedings  on,  87. 

Break,  Mr.  Samuel,  I38. 

Bridge,  over  Wappinger's  creek, 
20. 

over  Kinderhook  creek, 


30. 


over  the  Mohawlc  river^ 
at  Schenectady,  43. 

over  west  Canada,  54. 

over  Deer  river,  66. 

over  Black  river  at  Wa- 


tertown, 68;    at   Brownville, 


69. 


-  at  the  Falls  of  Niagara, 


166. 


X 


over  Cayuga  lake,  2 1 5. 

Briggs,  Mr.  Isaac,  information 
obtained  from,  respecting  the 
Little  Falls,  49  ;  gives  the  au- 
thor the  latitude  of  Utica,  and 
the  variation  of  the  magnetic 
neydle  at  that  village,  55  ;  let- 
ter from  him  respecting  tlie 
Grand  Canal,  bcL  ad. 

Brockf  General,  his  death,  169. 

Brock viUe,  town  of,  7,  105  note, 
107  note. 

Brown,  General  Jacob,  his  resi' 
dence,  69  ;  wounded,  169  ;  his 
military  career,  where  com- 
menced, xliv.  ad. 

Brown,  Samuel  R.,  quoted  203. 

Byron,  Lord,  quoted,  1 64  note. 

Buffalo,  village  of,    137,    155  j 


11- 

I 

r 


INDEX. 


creek  near,  156;  Iiaibor  of, 
ib.  157  ;  destroyed,  170  ;  road 
from  Fort  Geo.ge  to,  170  ; 
farther  reflections  upon  its 
harbor,  171. 
BurgoynSy  General,  liis  march 
towards  Albany,  34 ;  surren- 
ders his  ai'my,  25. 

a 

Canada  creek,  east,  47. 

creeAr,  west,  53. 

— Upper,  province  of,  74 ; 

observations  and  reflections  on 
76,  87  ;  its  climate  misunder 
stood,  121. 
Canalf  between  Seneca  lake  and 
136  note, 
in  the    state  of 


Capt.  Alden  Purtmlgc,  26, 
note  ;  wheie  seen  to  most  ad- 
vantage, 26 ;  covered  with 
snow,  Mav  3d,  18 1  i,  27  note  ; 
seen  fro.      ^olumbiaville,  31  ; 

.  from  Albt        35  ;  from  Troy, 
36 ;  their  peculiar  range,  226. 

CaterskiU  Falls,  33. 

Cayuga  creek,  156. 

village,  2 1 4,. 

lake,  215. 
bridge,  ih. 


Cayahoga  river,  178. 
Cazenovia  creek,  156. 


village,  212,  220. 


Tioga  river, 
grand. 


New-York,  1 60,  xxxiv,  ad. 
by  Chatauque  lake,  175 


Canadttway,  174. 

Canandaigua,  village  of,  1 31 ;  de- 
scribed, 1 33  ;  population,  ib. 
note;  road  from  to  Buffalo. 
212,  215  ;  revisited  by  the  au 
thor,  212  ;  observations  upon, 
213. 

lake  of,  131,  133,  134. 


Chatauque  lake,  175. 
Chaumont,  Mr.  Ray  de,  quoted,64 
note. 

bay,  71. 


Canards,  riviere  aux,  193, 

Cape  Rosier',  1 1 2. 

Cass,  Governor,  196;  conc'udes 

a  treaty  with  several  Indian 

tribes,  ib.  note. 
Carthage,  curiosity  near,  123. 
Cataract,  of  CaterskiU,  .'^3. 
— — —  of  the  Cohoes,  38. 
Little  Falls,  48. 

Niagara,  101,  161,  169. 

1 of  Velino,  description  of, 

by  Lord  Byron,  quoted,  164 
note. 

of  Seneca  outlet,  2 1 4. 

near  Ithaca,  215  note. 


Chenal  Ecarte,  202,  205.      . 

Chenango  river,  220,  221. 

Cherry  Valley,  village  of,  3l2i' 
222. 

Chippewa  river,  1 60  ;  battle  of, 
1 69  ;  river  described,  203. 

Claverack  creek,  29,  30. 

Cleveland,  village,  178,  179. 

Clinton,  Governor,  his  inaugural 
discourse,  42 ;  description  of 
the  Little  Falls,  48  ;  extracts 
from  his  address,  xlviii.  ad. 

Columbiaville,  80 ;  scenery  near, 
31. 

CunninghanCs  Island,  179. 

n. 

Danbury,  township  or  peninsula, 

181. 
Deer  river,  66. 
Detroit,  river  of,  99. 

city  of,  100  note,   137, 


Cattaraugus  creek,  156 
Catskill,  village  of,  27,  32; 

mountains,    (Catsbergs) 


187,  200. 

Dunkirk,  bay  and  harbor  descri- 
bed, 173;  prospects  of  future 
prosperity,  176. 

Dutchess  county,  N.  Y.  its  as- 
pect, 17  ;  timber  in  imprudcnt- 


w: ' ' 


beck,  24}  their  elevation  by!    extent  aad  population,  1 9. 


17;  fine  view  of,  from  Rhine-     dently  destroyed,  18,  19;  its 

■  .  «..  .t       •  1  ••  *1 I         A ^ J 1_i: \  r\ 


iVdix. 


1 


S, 


Eddifs  map  of  tlie  state  of  New 
York,  134. 

.  J5rie,  town  of,  2 1 0  j  harbor,  ih. 

■•  lake  of,  loo  note;  storms 

on,  ib.  'f  extent  and  quantity 
of  water  in,  117;  destructive 
8torni  on,  171  note;  dangers 
of  its  navigation,  172;  dis- 
tance iVom  lake  Huron,  191. 
fort,  168,  170. 


Essex  county^   LFpper  Canada, 

194,  195. 
EsopuSf  see  Kintrston. 

F. 
Fall  creek,  215. 
Falls  of  St.  Mary,  94. 

of  Niagara,  10 1,  160. 

■  of.  Montmorency,  1 12. 
■  in  Fall  creek,  215  note. 

Fairporty  village  of,  at  the  mouth 

of  Grand  river,  ?77. 
Fire  lands,  tenure  of  from  what 

derived,  181;  now  forms  part 

of  Huron  county,  ib. 
Flax,  its  culture  in  Canada,  ad 

xvi.  xix. 

12. 
mountains,  passage  of  the 

Hudson  river  through,  9,  10; 

their    component    parts,     1 1 

note ;  their   height   measured 

by  Capt.  Alden  Partridge,   1 1 

note,  12  ;  scenery,  14. 
Fredonia,  formerly  Canadaway, 

174. 
French  of  Canada,  their  charac- 


Fishkill  landing, 


ter,  86. 


O. 


Gelder,  Dr.  Van,  his  poem  upon 
Fort  Putnam,  13  note. 

Genesee  river,  153  ;  flats  of,  ib. 

Geneva,  village  of,  129;  descri- 
bed, 130;  revisited  by  the  au- 
thor, 212.213. 

Goat  Island,  1 66  note. 

Gourlay,  Mr.  Robert,  reflections 
upon  liis  operations  in  Upper 


Canada,  7G ;  proceedings  re- 
specting, in  the  provincial  le- 
gislature, 77  J  observations  on, 
th. 

Grand,  or  Ouse  river  in  U.  C 
described  100  note,  177,  203. 

Grand  Inland,  in  Niagara  river, 
158,  159  note. 

Grand  Gallop  Islands,  106  note  ; 
described,  124. 

Granger,  Mr.  Gideon,  213. 

Gratiot,  Fort,  200. 

Greme,  General,  1 4. 

Greene  county,  32,  33. 

Groa  Isle,  in  Detroit  river,  de- 
scribed, 193,  193. 
//. 

Hamilton,  village  of,  on  St.  Law- 
rence river,  87. 

village  of,  on  Allegany 


river,  7,  140. 

Harrison,  General,  reconquers 
Michigan  territory,  1 87  j  de- 
feats General  Proctor,  ib. ;  a- 
gain,  211. 

Hawkrns,  Colonel  Samuel,  his 
fete  champetre,  on  one  of  the 
St.    Lawrence    islands,     100 
note. 

Haines,  C.  G.  esq.  correspo»' 
dence  with  the  author,   13  , 
ISO. 

Hen  and  Chickens,  islands,  196. 

Herkimer  village,  54. 

'^ighlands,  a  term  used  for  the 
passage  of  the  Hudson  river 
through  the  Fishkill  moun- 
tains, 20. 

History,  reading  of  neglected  in 
the  United  States,  22;  lessons 
drawn  from,  80,81. 

Hudson  river,  its  aspect  in  winter 
y ;  its  passage  through  the  Fish- 
kill  mountains,  9,  10,  11;  did 
not  always  flow  into  New- 
York  bay,  1 1 ;  creeks  of,  20 ; 
peculiar  features  of  its  banks, 

28,  29. 


UfOtK. 


W-  ^ 


^i: } 


w 


M..- 


Iltuliiony  town  of^  2r,  iS,  39 
HuUy  Ueiieraly  reflections  upon 

his  operations  in  the  Midiigan 

teriilory,  188. 


dian  name  f^r    Fishkill,    \6 

note ;  scenery  on,  ift^  Schenck's 

factory  on^  1 6. 

iJHaumet  bay,  208,  309  ;  country 

/iuronrtv«r/m  the  state  of  Ohio,     nenr  compared  to  that  upoa 

182.  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  309. 

of  lake  Erie,  201.  Mexican  gulfy  209. 

of  lake  St.  Clair,  302.     [j^ichigan  lakey  93,  108,  1 17. 

jieninsiiln,  96  note, 
territory, 96  note;  popti- 


*-  lake,  95  ;  communication 

between  and  lukeOntariO|98, 
90  note  ;  extent  and  quantity 
uf  water,  117}  distance  from 
lake  Erie,  191. 

Ithaca,  village  of,  21(1  note. 

K, 
Kindfvhook  creek ^  29,  33. 

village  of,  33,  34. 

Kingston,  town  of,  in  Upper  Ca- 
nada, 97  note;  104. 

village  of,  24 ;  taken  and 


lation  of,  197,  200;  geological 
stnictiire,  198,  199;  Settle- 
ments in,  200  ;  climate,  ib, 

Mingan  settlement,  112. 

MissisHtppi  m*er, contrasted  with 
the  St.  Lawrence,  88,  9d',  91  y. 
92. 

Mohawk  river,  42,  48,  and  se- 
quel ;  valley  of  near  Utica, 
57  ;  its  features,  2^5. 

Montreal,  city  of,  elegance  of  its 
site,  IU9  note;  population  of^ 
ib. ;  noticed,  137. 


bm*nt  by  the  British,  ib. ,  pre- 
sent state  oA  25  ;  situation,  ib. 
ICirk  S^  Mercetn,  Booksellers  o£ Mountains,  Fishkill,  U,  andje- 


the  city  of  New- York,  their 
edition  of  Cuvicr*s  theory  of 
the  Earth,  1 1  note ;  42. 
L. 

Lakes  and  rivers  compa\':df  108 
note. 

JLay^s  iTiap  of  the  state  of  New- 
York,  134. 

Little  Falls,  48  ;  description  of, 
by  Gov.  CHnton,  ib.  note ;  sce- 
nery near,  49,  52;  changes 
that  this  cataract  has  under- 
gone, 52. 

LouisviUe,  town  of,  1 37. 

Lyons  village,  139,  131. 
M. 

Maitland,  Sir  Peregrine,  Cover 
nor  of  Upper  Canada,  proceed 
ings  of,  re«p»)cting  Mr.  Rotjert 
Couilay,  77. 

Maiden,  193. 

MnHitfactures,  Amerioan,  disad-' 
vantages  opposed  to,  16,21,22; 

Mateoivun,'  aclory  at,    16  j  hi-lA^ormtim  Kill ^  227% 


quel. 

Catskill,  (Catsbergs)  17; 

seen  from  Hiidson,  29 ;  from 
Columbiaville,  3 1  ;  from  Alba- 
ny, 35  ;  froH)  Troy,  36. 

Murdeir  creek,  134. 
JV. 

Natchitoches,  1 37 ;  compared 
with  Detroit,  190;  noticed, 
137. 

Mwbitrg,  its  site,  10, 12. 

New-Orleans,  ship  of  the  line  on 
the  stocks  at  Sucket's  Harbor^ 
observations  on,  71,  72, 
city  of,  145,  189. 


New-York,  seasons  at  compared 

to  those  at  Albany,  9. 
Niagara,  cataract  of,  described 

by  Mr.  Bouchette,  10 1. 

— —  bv  the  author  of  this  trea- 


tise, 160,  169. 

river,  102. 

fort,  170. 


INORX. 


0. 


note,  96 


Ogdt.ntimtghf  village  of  Uescri 
bed,  7,  73,  74,  87,  106. 

Ogden*i  hlandf  87,  131. 

Ogilvitf  Colonel,  his  obMorvalionn 
icsuecting  the   St.    Lawreiict 
ana  Ottawa  rivers,  9 
tiole. 

Ohio  river,  contrasted  with  the 
St.  Lawrence,  74,  HS. 

— —  state  of,  boundary  Iwtwccn 
and  Pennsylvahia,  177;  range 
of  the  Krie  ridge  through,  18X*. 

Oleatif  or  Hamilton,  on  the  Alle 
gany  river,    145  ;    transit  of 
merchandise  Ijetwecn  and  the 
city  of  New- York,  ib.  note. 

OntariOf  lake,  102 ;  its  depth,  103 


Pike,  General,  his  grkvt:,   'iv,  n4« 
Pine  lands  upon  the  Hudson,  31, 


34;  compared  with  tliosu  of 
Louisiana,  Alabama,  and  Mis- 
sissippi, ih.\  their  sterile  a»> 
jTect,  38. 

Poutfhkeepmf  town  of,  21; 
Booth's  factory  at,  ib. 

Prescotty  town  of,  7,  lo7  note. 

ProctoTf  Cieneral,  defeated  by 
(General  Harrison,  211. 

Putnam  counfy,  K;  takj^n  from 
Dutchess,  19. 

General,  15. 

fort,   its    situation,   L3 ; 


104,  108   notes;    nuliced 


109' 
128 


note,   127;  recession  of, 
note ;  noticed,  1 29  ;   interest 
ing  features  of,  xliv.  ad. 

Oppen/ieim,  village  of,  4". 

OrleanSf  island  of,  113. 

_ —  New,  city,  145, 18.). 

Oawego  river f  104,  217. 

Ottawa  river f  93, 97,  note. 

Otisco  lalce,  220,  221. 

Owasco  lake,  218. 

Ouse  or  Orandrivtr,  177,  303. 
P. 

J*alatinef  village  of,  46. 

PainesviUej  village  of,  178. 

Partridge,  Capt.  Aldcn,  meas- 
ures the  height  of  Fislikill 
mountains,  1 1  note ;  those  of 
the  Catsbergs,  26  uote^  some 
others,  ib. 

Peninsula,  between  Sandusky  and 
Portage  rivers,  and  extending 
between  Sandusky  bay  and  the 
Buss  Islands,  179;  described, 
180,181. 

Perry,   Commodore,  171   note 
captures  a  Hritish  squadron  on 
lake  Erie,  185  ;  the  vessels  of 
both  tlects  now  in  Eric  harbor, 


Dr.  Van  Gelder*8  poem  uponi 
13  note;  its  scenery,  14,  15. 
Put-in-bay,  lOO  note,  185,  186. 

Quebec,  ciiy  of,  102,  112,  127. 
(lueenntown,  102. 

lieights  of,  203. 

R, 
Raifiin^  or  Grape  river,  20!. 
Rhinebeck,  village,  23. 
Ridf(e,  between  lake  Erie,  and 
Ohio  waters,  173;  its  elevation, 


175;  visible  near  the  moutlt 
of  Grand  river  from  the  en- 
trance into  Sandusky  bay,  179; 
its  range  through  the  slutc  of 
Ohio,  182;  through  the  state 
of  New-York,  217,  224. 

Rivers,  Ottawa,  Musquinonge, 
St.  Maurice,  St.  Anne,  Jacques 
Cartier,  Saguenay,  Betsiami- 
tes,  Manacouagan,  95. 

Rivers  and  lakes,  their  features^ 
108  note. 

l?o«ge,  riviere,  201. 

Uoute  from  New- York  to  St.  Lou* 
is  by  Pittsburg,  Sec.  lix.  ad. 

by  Detroit,  &c.  lix.  ad. 

from  New- York  to  De- 
troit, and  down  the  St.  Law» 
rence,  to  Quebec,  and  return 
to  New- York,  xlv.  ad* 

Rutland,  viUaj»e,  67. 


I 


r  I 

i 


tm 

fi 

P^f 

i- 

k'i 

1 

1 
'i 

}^ 

k  .' 

ll^  1 


r  1  1      ! 


it**" 


INDiiX. 


8, 


Sackd's  Harbor,  5  6 ;  country  be 
tween  and  Utica,  57,  70  ;  re- 
view at,  73 ;  country  between 
and  the  Thousand  islands,  73 ; 
military  works  at,  104  note; 
grave  of  General  Pike,  xliv. 
ad. ;  views  near,  ib. 

Saguenay  river,  93  j  described, 
97  note. 

8andwlch,  Upper  Canada,  194, 
195. 

Sandusky  6ay,   180;  described, 


181. 


village  of,  185. 


Mate 


Schenck's  factory  on  the 
owan,  (Fishkill)  16. 

Schenectady^  village  of,  its  dis 
tance  from  Albany,  39  ;  inter 
mediate  country,  ib. ;  situation 
of,  40 ;  surprised  by  the  sava- 
ges, ib. ;  Union  College  at,  4 1 . 

Schoharie  creek,  enters  the  Mo- 
hawk river,  45 ;  described,  227. 

Schlosserf  fort,  1 60 

Scottj  General  VVinfield,  visits 
Sacket's  Harbor,  72 ;  wounded, 
169. 

Senecay  lake,  213;  outlet  of,  2 14. 

river,  217. 

Shawangunkf  mountain,  20. 
Simcoef  lake,  97. 

Sisters  Islands,  1 86. 

Skeneateles,  lake,  219. 

Smithes  Gazetteer  '•f  Upper  Ca 
nada,  quoted,  203. 

Sodus  bay,  described,  126. 

Sp^ffbrd's  Gazetteer,  quoted,  32, 
33. 

Steamboats,  their  arrangement 

.  defective,  9  ;  Walk-in-the- Wa- 
ter, 173  note. 

St.  CUdr,  river,  99. 

lake,  191. 

St.  Francis,  lake,  107,  108,  124. 

St.  Lawrence,  river  of,  73 ;  con- 
trasted with  the  Mississippi,  ib. 
its  real  commencement,  ib. ; 


c*0niiiierce  upon,  Tfijcompft' 
iw  io  the  Hudson,  88,  89; 
table  of  the  surface  drained  by, 
89 ;  contrasted  with  the  Mis^ 
sis.dppi,  88;  noticed,  90,  91, 
92,  106  note,  107  note;  excel- 
lent ship  navigation  in,  108 
note ;  compared  with  the  Oro- 
noco  an»-  Plate  rivers,  ift. ;  con- 
trasted with  the  Amazon  and 
Mississippi,  109  note;  beauty 
of  its  islands,  ib.  note ;  effect 
of  frost  on,  115,  116;  compa- 
red with  the  Hudson,  Delaware, 
Susquehanna,  Rio  de  Isi  Plate, 
and  Elbe,  116;  quantity  of 
water  in  enormous,  117;  tim- 
ber on  its  shores,  120 ;  features 
of  its  bank$  where  visited  by 
the  author,  119;  islands  iti 
contrasted  with  those  in  the 
'"Mississippi,  123 ;  navigation  of 
between  Montreal  andOgdens- 
burgh,  125  ;  between  Ogdens- 
burgh  and  Kingston,  125, 

valley  of,  its  natural  ad- 


vantages, 205 ;  climate,  206. 

St.  Regis,  Indians  claim,  the  right 
of  soil  to  the  St.  Lawrence 
islands,  125. 

Sugar  river,  66. 

Superior,  lake,  93;  extent  and 
quantity  of  water,  117. 

Susquehami.t  river,  223. 
T. 

Table  of  the  area  drained  by  the 
St.  Lawrence,  89  ;  by  the  Mis- 
sissippi, 90. 

of  the  extent  and  quanti- 


ty of  water  in  the  Canadian 


sea,  117. 


of  the  stationary  distan- 
ces from  lake  Erie  to  lake 
Huron,  191. 

Table  Rock,  near  the  Falls  of 
Niagara,  166  note,  212. 

Thames  river,  U.  C.  100  note : 
described,  20 J!. 


i:--;'f 


H: 


88,   89; 
ained  by, 
the  Mis^ 
90,  91, 
e ;  excel- 
in,  108 
the  Oro- 
ih. ;  con- 
■izon  and 
beauty 
;  effect 
compa- 
'elaware, 
laPlate, 
antity  of 
17 ;  tim- 
;  features 
isited  by 
slands  in 
se  in  the 
igation  of 
d  Ogdens- 
Ogdens- 

125. 

Eitnral  ad- 
te,  206. 
V  the  right 
Lawrence 


ctent  and 
7. 


led  by  the 
7  the  Mis- 
id  quanti- 
Danadiaii 

ry  distan- 
to  lake 

Falls  of 
12. 
100  note ; 


INDEX. 


Thousand  IslandSy  described,  74 ; 

their  termination,  74;  noticed, 

105  note. 
Tonnewanta  creek,  its  character, 

154,  i&.;  described,  159. 
Toronto  eliffSf  103. 
Treaty  with  several  nations  of 

savages,  196  note. 
TrentoHy  village  of,  63 ;  adjacent 

country,  ib. 
Tripes  Bill,  4ff. 
Troup f  Colonel  Robert,  1 30. 
Troy,  village  of,  36 ;  situation  of, 

ib.  I  in  what  manner  built,  37  j 

its  environs,  38. 
Turkey  Island,  in  Detroit  river 

193. 

U. 
tnica,  village  of,  42  j  country  be- 
tween and  Albany,  ib.  and  se 

quel ;  occupies  the  site  of  Fort 

Schuyler,   55 ;    latitude,  ib. 

population  of,  56 ;  roads  from, 

ib. 
Union  College  at  Schenectady 


41. 


r. 


Valleys  of  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
Mississippi,  136  note;  compa- 
red, 139. 

Venice  village,  184. 

View  near  Utica,  57. 

— —  from  Newburg,  1 1 . 

from  West  Point,  12. 

from  Fort  Putpam,  14. 

along  the  Hud.son,  20. 

- —  of  the  Catsbergs,  from 
Rhinebeck,  24. 


View  from  Kingston,  26, 
from  Hudson  village,  29, 

from  Columbiaville,  31. 

— —  near  Albany,  35. 

near  Troy,  36. 

of  the  country  adjacent  to 

Schenectady,  39. 

— —  near  Utica,  57. 

— —  near  Geneva,  130. 

•— —  near  Canandaigua,  131. 

oftheFalls  of  Niagara,  164. 

from  Queenstown  heights, 

168. 

from  the  mountains  near 

the  village  of  Cherry  Valley, 
228,. 

of  Sacket's  Harbor,  xliv.  ad. 

of  the  grave  of  Gen.  Pike,  ib, 

fV. 

Wdppinger^s  creek,  19. 

fVashington,  General,  14. 

Watertown,  67 ;  adjacent  coun- 
try, ib. 

Waik'in-ihe-Water,  steam-boat, 
173,  ib.  note;  her  first  trip 
from  Buffalo  to  Detroit,  173 
note ;  return  to  Buffalo,  207. 

Waterloo,  village  of,  212. 

West  Point,   12;  its  local,   13; 
its  scenery,   14,  15 ;  students 
at,  their  seclusion,  1 5, 
F. 

Yates,  Mr.  his  interesting  history 
of  Canandaigua,  132. 

York,  city  of,  in  Upper  Canada, 
seat  of  government  there,  98. 


tiUE  ENB. 


